Imperial stout reiterated mash high efficiency Grainfather brew 4k
Вставка
- Опубліковано 1 січ 2017
- Imperial Stout recipe
5.85 kg / 12.89 lbs Venture Pale Ale 5 EBC (5.0 EBC) 86.9 %
0.44 kg / 0.97 lbs Crystal 150, (150 EBC AVERAGE) 6.5 %
0.18 kg / 0.39 lbs ROASTED BARLEY 2.6 %
0.13 kg / 0.28 lbs Carafa Special II (Weyermann) (805.0 EBC) 2.0 %
0.13 kg / 0.28 lbsCarafa Special III (Weyermann) (912.0 EBC) 2.0 %
80.22 g / 2.82 oz Challenger [8.30 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 6 65.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg New World Strong Ale (Mangrove Jack's #M42)
Mash 1 & 2:- Mash in@ 65 deg c for 60mins / Mash out @ 75c for 10mins Stirred 3 times during the last (or both! ) of the 60 min mash/s
60 Minute boil
Est Original Gravity: 1.096 SG (at 75% EFF)
Est Final Gravity: 1.018 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 10.4 %
Bitterness: 65.0 IBUs
Est Color: 89.5 EBC
Regular pipework:- mash efficiency best at just over 4kg and no more than 5kg
Small batch pipework:- mash efficiency best at 2.5kg to 3.5kg
6.74kg malt cut in two to make 3.37kg per mash.
Strike water 12.60L
Sparge 1 10L
Sparge 2 3L
Here is a mini guide also to this method:-
1) Make your recipe as normal
2) Look at the amount of malt you will be adding
3) Work out which pipework is best for dividing up your malt into amounts that will allow high efficiency.
Regular pipework:- mash efficiency best at just over 4kg and no more than 5kg
Small batch pipework:- mash efficiency best at 2.5kg to 3.5kg
4) Mash as decided. First mash will have a full sparge as if this was a brew just with the malt in your first mash. Use the GF online calculator to calculate the water to use for the grain at the start and also the sparge. Mash in and mash out.
5) When you sparge use a mix of hot and cold water to bring your wort down to the temperature you need for the next mash. Remove the grain totally .
6) Add the rest of your grain to the grain basket and do your second mash. Mash out as normal. Look at how much wort you have and calculate how much you need to sparge with to get your pre boil volume.
7) Do your second sparge with that smaller amount...use 75 deg water this time.
8) Do your boil and everything else as normal.
Channel links:-
groups/Brewbeer
www.teespring.com/stores/davi...
Introduction music:- Drink Beer (Till The Day That I Die) by Dazie Mae - Навчання та стиль
Thanks again. I brewed some 'Sinister Stout', from Brewferm. It's an extract (2.4 gallons) and is currently conditioning in the basement. I racked it twice (it's a top fermentation process) and added 3oz. of 100% cocoa in the 2nd. racking. I also added 3oz. of Maltodextrin in the 2nd. racking. During the bottling I added 1ml of Four Roses burbon per 12oz bottle. For a Burbon taste test I made a growler (2L) with 25ml of Four Roses. If my friends prefer the milder amount of adjunct, I get to drink the growler.
Great, sounds good 🍻🍻🍻
Hi David, some weeks ago i was looking for a challenging recipe and then i found your video. I brewed it 2 weeks ago and it went pretty well with a OG of 1.099. Today i transfered to a carboy and it finished with a FG of 1.015. A little bit dryer then expected but it taste so good already. Now the hardest part begins ;)
Thank you so much for all your videos, i always learn something in each of them. Cheers
Great to hear. Yes this sure is tasty, even early. Worth the wait though. I have a fast version here:- ua-cam.com/video/2yS_IdlvS_U/v-deo.html
From 9.30 in the video i can hear some brewing music in the background. Pink Floyd, excellent choice 👍
Thank you and yes it sure is :)
I brewed an English Mild yesterday, a recipe from my local homebrew shop. I followed your advice on proper way to mash, and I hit the numbers spot on! Thank You David.
Great to hear, it's great that my content helped you, that's my goal :) I do love an English mild myself! Check out my mild recipe on this channel, it's done me very proud in competition:)
Some excellent pointers David, many thanks for posting your tips and tricks :-) Cheers!
Theseus Im very glad that you found it useful :)
Really interesting video David, it was great to learn a little more about high gravity beers on the Grainfather. Cheers!
Damo Glad you found it interesting, its a solid technique done the right way :)
Love the videos mate. Keep shining on you crazy diamond!
Thank you 🍻🍻🍻
Great video as usual, been waiting for an informative guide to this since i tried a paradox islay clone with a 17lb grain bill and got into a real mess on the GF. talk about running before you can walk. Saw a blog on this afterwards which was OK but this really helps understand the process. After watching feel confident i can try again and expect success. Cheers David love the videos
Anthony Millward Thanks alot Anthony, glad it helps you out :)
Great video(s) (since I'm watching all of them recently). Great, great tips! Huge respect and thanks, for taking time and making those videos! Keep'em coming! Awesome knowledge base not only for GF brewers!
PS Kudos for PinkFloyd brewing :D
mirogster Thanks alot, very good to hear :) Its right though, alot of my videos relate to all grain brewing in general.
Got overconfident and tried a 9.2% equivalent BEFORE watching your video and used single mash....then wondered why with a 3l sparge I only got a 55% efficiency and 6% (very sweet) stout! Hindsight is such a great thing. Awesome video as always David :-)
You are set for your next one hopefully :)
Again, great video, very helpful! Thanks!
Great, thank you :)
Bag on top of the grain basket and flip. you just made my brew day easier haha. Its always those little things you dont think of!
Thanks Steve, glad you liked that tip :)
Great video on reiterated mash... Love anything stout... keep brewing those darks!
Great to hear, many thanks :)
Love the video. Was wondering how to make a “big” beer with grain basket limitations. Also love the Pink Floyd playing in the background!! 🤟🏻
Thank you :)
Great video David ... thanks for sharing!
Craig MacKay Glad you enjoyed it Craig :)
Great video. Will definitely give this a go.
paulnjosie Glad you enjoyed it :) Go for it :)
great vid with some nice nuggets of info/wisdom. Cheers
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another fine video David!
Peter Scandlyn Thanks Peter, glad you liked it :)
hi david, great vid and a devilish beer looking at the krausen! The yeast is a good choce, I used the old and former m07 which is the same yeast according to mangrove jack for porters and stout beers. Cheers!
rmharing Glad you enjoyed it :) Yes, quite frankly its like I brewed it to Satanic death metal rather than Pink floyd!! Its pretty evil stuff for sure!
You should do a video about malt conditioning David (gently spraying in ~2% of the grain weight in water over the grains pre-milling, enabling you to have a finer crush while still retaining the whole husk)
I'm thinking about trying it myself later this month!
Good idea Kenneth :) Ive not done that for quite some years but its a nice topic for sure.
Really enjoying your videos and taking away lots of tips, many thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Am interested in trying to produce a 'small beer' after completing a primary recipe, have you any experience in doing this? I guess with such high efficiencies there isn't a lot left to extract
Sam Ryan Glad you are enjoying them :) I used to do such things when I brewed old style at home but I dont bother these days, would of been tricky with this level of extraction also!
Going to do a reiterated Old Rasputin clone next week on my Mash and Boil. Did it with a NEIPA and although a slower process, my numbers were spot on and the beer finished excellent.
Great, check out my latest video on the topic also here:- ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
Love the Pink Floyd playing in the background... great music for a great brew day!
+Michael M Awesome for sure :)
I second that
That imperial stout looks delicious. Thanks for the thorough walktrough. I will definitely try this recipe someday.
Do you have any experience with induction heating?
Glad you enjoyed it :) I am sorry but I actually dont!
Great choice of brew tunes!
+E Gregory You are obviously having great taste in music :)
And thanks for the great info on teh reiterated mash. This is a new technique for me and will definitely need to try it out!
+E Gregory Great, it sure makes for a fun brew and a great result:)
Great video David. I'm planning to brew this soon. Will also add some (0.9 kg) candi syrup.
One question, is it enough with just one pack of M42? It sounds little for such a heavy beer.
Many thanks Elias. It totally depends on the volume. If the same as this then that will be fine :)
With Pink Floyd in the background. Nice. (Shine on you crazy diamond)
Never fails to please me 🍻🍻🍻
Hope it shon like a crazy diamond.
Great video
Thank you. Sure did :)
Hey and happy new year to you too! How was the trub on this one? You mentioned you used borderline fine crush on this brew. Would putting a BIAB bag on the inside/outside lower the BHF, by much if any, you think?
FloppyJedi It wasnt as bad as I expected to be honest! Abit more than usual I think but nothing serious at all. Using a biab bag should have zero effect on conversion.
Hi David, great video. I was wondering, when you empty the grain from the 1st mash, do you give the basket a clean before the 2nd mash? Cheers.
Thank you. A clean is not needed. Just empty it and add the new grain. I have a more up to date video that explains the whole process in more detail:- ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
Hello, David! Love your videos and find them useful, as I also brew using a Grainfather. I am planning on brewing some high gravity beers and want to do a reiterated mash. The grainbill would be 10.5 Kg of grains, divided evenly into 2 mashes and sparges. If you have the time, I would love for you to take the time and let me know how much water I need for the mashes and the sparges. I am unsure whether the Grainfather would be too full after the first sparge to accomodate the second mash in.
🍻🍻🍻
David - excellent video on the brewing and starting the fermenting process for such a high ABV beer. Given the 1yr or so conditioning you anticipate, two questions:
- will you rack into a second carboy after fermentation and do you use priming sugar??
- how will you seal the carboy for that period of time conditioning ?
Many thanks in anticipation ! John
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. Yes the beer will be racked into a second carboy for bulk conditioning. Sugar will only get added when I rack this into my bottling bucket for bottling. At that point I will also add more yeast. Due to the high alcohol I will use a wine yeast for carbonation. The carboy is sealed in the usual way with an airlock. Its vital to check the water level is good from time to time. I did a video on high alcohol beer conditioning and bottling a while back on this channel, check it out for full details :)
Hi. Im gonna brew a Imperial Stout soon and im gonna use Lallemand CBC-1for bottle carbonation. What's your knowledge of this yeast? What kind of yeast are you gonna use? Cheers!
Hi David hope your well. Loving the videos. Just a quick question. I'm just fermenting an Imperial stout (hopefully for Christmas but I fear ill run out of time). Now ive read loads about this that and the other....conditioning bottling temps etc and am overloaded with information. In your opinion how long should I leave my brew in the PF, how long should I condition in my plastic barrel and at what temp, when is the best time to bottle and what temp should I store my bottles. Hope you can help........cheers Nick
+nick edmondson Best way really is to use a carboy for conditioning before conditioning. This will speed up conditioning. Check this out, one of my earlier videos:- ua-cam.com/video/hyCNxiSFARo/v-deo.html
Thank you so VERY much! One small question...Is Pink Floyd required, or can I use Bluegrass?
Haha, I think either would be acceptable :)
Morning David, I brewed your (six years old!) recipe earlier this month ... the second mash stuck: nightmare to resolve and BH efficiency fell through the floor. Such is life eh?
Could you tell me about the bulk conditioning process - I'm almost ready to rack to a carboy:
Do I prime with sugar / DME or does the beer go in "raw" as it were?
Related question - should I fit an airlock to the carboy if I'm not using priming sugar.
Thanks for your continued and (extensive) videos - I'm getting a uni-level education in brewing with each viewing! Much appreciation. Cheers!
Hi Paul, sorry I must of missed this.
I have covered this as a topic, some years back :- ua-cam.com/video/hyCNxiSFARo/v-deo.html
Thanks for this David. I'm planning to try my first reiterated mash in a few days and will follow your advice (I've recently purchased the small batch pipework for the G30). I just had a query about mashing out after the first mash - are advantages gained from doing this that outweigh potential benefits of leaving active enzymes in the wort, ready to contribute to the second mash? I would always mash out after the second mash, but wouldn't instinctively do it after the first mash. Thanks again.
Great , cheers.
The mash out side is optional. See what you think after trying both ways.
I also have this more recently made guide which many found easier to follow, though its still 5 years old! ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.htmlsi=4ut3aZKkC9uOH8u1
Hello David!! great vid... i have a question maybe you can help me with. i want to make a pale ale with 10% ABV, should i let it prime for a year or maybe less?
cheers!!
Thank you. 10% Pale ale! Ive never gone that high on the style. It will for sure need time. A 10% IPA would be a lot quicker.
Hey David, great video.
Just trying to understand this as im going to attempt it in the next few days.
When you mash in at 12.60l then you sparge with 10.10l (total 22.70l) how come that after the second mash in and you are going to sparge you are only left with 15l ? Is this from evaporation during second mash steps ?
As i'm looking to do a Helles Bock, total grain bill is 6.85kg and going to make a 23l batch, my mash water is 12.75l and sparge is 19.49l = 32.24L (90 min boil) in the grainfather, would there be enough room to add the grain basket and mash again ?
Thanks
+Clayton Cassel Hey Clayton, its grain/hop absorption and evaporation at work. With a reiterated mash you do the calcs for half the brew mash and sparge. Then add the second amount of grain and then do a top up sparge to your preboil amount.
Hi David, thanks for the video. How does the pipework affect the efficiency though?
I have a newer video that covers this topic in a clearer way here:- ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
Hi David. Love the channel. Keep up the good work.
Sorry, but would you kindly look at below and comment if you see any flaws.
Im planning on doing a reiterated mash. I want a 20 ltr batch with a grainbill of 9,8 kgs, So I type in 20 ltr batch in the grainfather mash and sparge water calculator and 9,8/2 = 4,9 kgs of grains for a 90 min boil. This gives me 16,72l Strike water and 13,69l sparge water. So, I add 4,9 kgs of grain into the 16,72l strike water. Mash for 60 min as usual and do a 10 min mash out followed by a sparge with 13,69l water. When the grains are drained I remove them and add the other 4,9 kg of grain using the wort as strike water. I mash for 60 min again with a 10 min mash out and then start the second sparge this time using an amount of sparge water that will bring the preboil volume up to the right level. Boil time is 90 min. Boil off rate is 2,8/hour so total boil off will be 4,2 ltr. On top of this I add the 1,8l for loss in trub and kettle. Preboil amount should in this case be 20+4,2 + 1,8 ltr, In all 26 liters of wort. Does this look right to you ?
Kind Regards JT
+ThePlywoodPelican Many thanks. Glad you are enjoying my content :) Yes that looks perfect. Your boil off rate will be your own though of course due to the variables involved. Mashing these two anounts of malt are within the sweet spot , so you will get decent effeciency.
Hi David. Perfect. Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated :-)
+ThePlywoodPelican :)
Hi David love the vid, I've struggled big time with efficiency when doing reiterated mashing on the GF. A couple of questions if I may:
1. When you topped up to 18l before the boil, were you expecting 15l or 13l into the fermy? I always have a couple of litres left in the GF, sometimes more on a very hoppy brew.
2. My 2nd sparge last time was very stuck, I didn't use rice hulls so maybe that was my problem. When you say "slow sparge" can you give an indication of time for the 2nd sparge?
3. Do you really need to mash out between the 2 mashes? I haven't done in the past but maybe it's a good idea for an easier 1st sparge and to lock in that conversion.
Cheers!
justmund Sure! 1) 15L into the fv. The calcs include this trub and I dont transfer that at all. I never tilt the gf to get more out, when the pump is done with the gf flat, thats it for me.
justmund 2) You can cure a stuck sparge by giving it a stir. Go to the bottom and stir upwards first then go from the top chopping into the grain. I find an average 10L sparge takes about 25mins, done properly though it can vary 5mins either way. Slow and even, dont build the water up past the two finger grips.
justmund 3) Yes! The mash out is not about conversion. Its about preparing the grain bed for the sparge.
Just one question David,
Would you get better results if you did the first mash & sparge and then removed the wort and then setup to do the other 1/2 and then combine the first with the second for the boil? Or is this more work than what you will get in return?
Jeff Davis I have tried it like this and saw little benefit. This could vary depending on brewing conditions and grain bill.
Hey David, it's David here!
I'm trying this tomorrow and I just measured my malts. It's 7,4kg/2=3,7kg pr mash. Would you suggest going big or small pipe?
Skål fra Danmark 🍻
Hi David, small batch is ideal, as it's under 4kg :)
Hi David. Great and informative Video as usual. Im not understanding the small pipework? It all looks like the standard pipework and basket?
Brian Troughton Its different. This product here:- www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/acatalog/Grainfather-Micro-Pipework-10219.html
David Heath Thank you. I couldnt open the link but found it on the old google. Are you planning any sours soon?
Great :) I dont know about soon but will do one this year im sure. Ive got my next brew planned out. I will also have some tasting videos coming very soon. First tasting party is tonight!
David Heath fantastic news. Thanks mate
Do you normally do all your batches with the micropipework, even the milkshake IPA? Thinking about ordering it for myself soon. Why does the efficiency get influenced when using normal pipeworks vs. micro on a smaller batch?
FloppyJedi I use it alot yes. The EFF differences come in to play due to the space for the grain. So for smaller amounts the smaller pipework works better.
great job tally i'm a brewer from way back
Thank you :)
Brewing and Pink Floyd.....You can't beat that! Do you know the IBU of the beer? Nice Video.
Thumbs up on the Pink Floyd :) Yes the IBU is 65, I just noticed that I hadnt added all the usual details to the description! So ive now added IBU and everything else missing! Thanks for pointing that out :) Glad that you enjoyed the video.
Hi David, just a quick question: what amount of rice hulls do you put in this kind of mash?
A couple of hand fulls with be plenty.
great video! i disagree however with the need to stir the protein back into the beer during boil for flavour. if the break isn't removed or flocculated, it can be mixed into the wort and into the fermenter.
Fletcher Michaels well brewers will never agree on everything, thats for sure!
Kind of a newbie question but I'll go ahead : you say you will keep the beer maturing for a year, and that makes me wondering what's the science behind this ? Is there a threshold of ABV that triggers the need of a longer maturing ? And why is it a year not 6 or 18 month ? Wow there's a lot of questions. Anyways thanks for these very detailed videos David keep up the good work !
It seems you've made a video that answers most of my questioning ua-cam.com/video/hyCNxiSFARo/v-deo.html haha thanks David !
Haha yes I have tried to cover everything. Yes it is the alcohol content that is mostly causing this need for conditioning. In terms of time, you cannot be exact. It's usually based on past experience with similar styles.
Hey David,
I noticed that you live in Norway and use heating belts for temp. control, but I don't manage to find them here. Where did you buy it? Thanks in advance!
+David Montoya Espín Ebay :) Though these days I use the GF conical fermenter mostly.
Hi, David! First of all, thank you for continuous inspiration. Been a while since I've made a big beer, so then I go back to this oldie, but goodie video :)
I want to retry a reiterated mash on my G30. Last time, the batch got really small, 12 liters. So this time, I was thinking a reiterated mash with ca. 8 + 8 kilos imperial stout . So, a few questions:
1. What efficiency should I expect? I'm usually around 65-70 % at 5-6-7 kilos of malt, 60 % if a big beer. I'm guessing 50-55 %?
2. The strike water profile on GF Community goes haywire with 16 kilos. I though I'd max it out with 23 litrres of strike water, and sparge with 1-2 litres on the first mash, then 1 liter on the second. Thoughts?
3. Kveik Voss, can it go further than 12 ABV? The instruction says so, but I imagine I've heard up to 16 %?
Recipe, not sure if it's representative of the end result, given my sparge questions.
Batch size: 16 L
Mash19.04 L
Sparge Volume16.08 L
Total Water35.12 L
OG (SG)1.134
FG (SG)1.031
EBC (Color)176.9
IBU (Bitterness)84.1
BU:GU0.63
ABV (Alcohol)13.44%
Calories138 per 100m
Thank you for your work!
Leif, Tromsø, Norway.
Hi Lief, great to hear, here are some answers.
1) Done the right way you can expect close to regular efficiency.
2) Best to figure it out using the half batch calcs as outlined in this guide:- ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
3) It depends. If it is the farm version then 16% should be just fine. If not then you can co-pitch with another yeast that can
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you, I will give it a go 😊👍
🍻🍻🍻
Hey David, When you sparge with 10l for the first mash and 3l with the second, are you getting all the malt out of the second ? Is there any reason why you cant split up the total sparge water for the batch (13l) to 6.5l each sparge instead ?
+Clayton Cassel The first sparge is a standard figure based on the malt amount. The second one is a make up volume sparge only. You will find that by doing it this way you will get a better end efficiency.
I was puzzled by your comments regarding Sparging. How do you do a slow Sparge? In my insulated Cooler days I had a rotating a Sparge Arm on top and adjusted the outlet to maintain a cm or so above the grain bed, a Sparge would take the best part of an hour.. The grainFather has no such outlet control and it goes away very quickly. Am I doing something wrong? My old Cooler system on 5kg of grain had an efficiency of around 80%., my Grainfather manages 70%.
+James Goach The speed of your sparge is really dictated by your grain crush. Sounds to me like you are grinding too coarse. This will reduce efficiency and make the sparge water run through your grainbed too fast. Use a credit card sized gap on your mill :) 75% should be easy to get. Hope this helps.
When stirring the grains in the second mash, do you remove the top plate and reinstall after every stir?
Yes I do recommend this :)
Have you added this to Brewfather? I can't find it and I'm wondering how you got it to acknowledge the small batch.
Hi, no this was way before my Brewfather change over. Should be easy enough though. If you go into Brewfather you can adjust the volume settings within the equipment profile by selecting edit and then moving to Batch volume (Fermenter) best to set this first before entering the recipe.
The endscreen with all the jumbled words looks like something I encountered with a norewegian artist in Barcelona years ago. He called it visual poetry.
Yes, I've changed my end screen, so it looks odd on some of these older videos.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Not odd just made me wonder wether you knew the same guy. :)
No, not one I remember:)
Good video David,
However, I dont understand this approach if it not for experimentation. I mean, if you do one single mash for your 6.7 kg, this would mean, since you are above the efficiency peak for the big pipework, that you lose around 5-10% eff. This loss in efficiency would mean around 20 nok in extra malt to account for a lower efficiency. If all this is correct, does it worth the extra time and efforts to do this for such a saving?
Reiterated mashing is a widely used method in home and commercial brewing that makes brewing of strong beers possible. Its not a case of money, its a case of possibilities. You simply cannot make beers this strong with a single mash. I have made a new video about this subject just recently that explains things in a better way I believe. Check it out here Alberto :- ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
What wasn't clear to me, without further reading, was that after the first mash in/mash out/sparge, the grains were removed. The 2nd mash used the leftover wort. Might have been obvious to others, but not for me, a beginner brewer.
Thanks for the feedback Rob. This is a fairly old video now and since then I have made a guide that breaks things down much more, which I am sure you will find clearer :)
Here is a link:- ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
Thank you David.
Hi David! Nice video! Im planning to brew using reiterated mash but Im a bit confused about ajusting salts. Did you do that? How?
Hi, there is a better video of mine on reiterated mashing here:- ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
In terms of water, I adjusted for the first mash then sought the same end ph for the 2nd mash as the first. I aimed for a ph of 5.3-5.4 at the start.
David Heath so you adjusted the water twice? The water of the first mash and the wort of the second mash? How did you calculated the second adjustment?
I use Brunwater sheet. Which tool do you use?
You can be precise with the first adjustment. The second one is adjust and see really. My water needs little adjust for darker beers, so that made it easy.
Hi David, great vid. What was your grain crush gap set to?. GrainFather's own FAQ seems wrong on this.
David Almond I have to be honest David, I mill be sight only. This was milled at work and that mill doesnt make it easy to measure the gap without taking it apart. Thats commercial mills for you im afraid.
I am currently using .95mm which is looser then I have been using but recently been getting very good efficencies but that might be down to the new controller. My miller said anything from a credit card .76mm is normal but it is very grain dependent. Grainfather FAQ says 1.27-1.4mm at that setting my Maris Otter grains would hardly be touched.
David Almond Im used to brewing with very fine grain from commercial brewing, we need it less fine for homebrews due to the sparge. I would suggest experimenting for the crush sweetspot. You will find some grain responds differently to the same crush due to kernal size.
Could you explain to me why a Grainfather has efficiency sweet spots with different lengths of stand pipe ?
Is it because the deeper the mash relative to the standpipe means more liquid flows through the standpipe versus going through the grain bed thus leaving some fermentables in the grain ?
Sure. Its about space and flow rate. The more grain you have the more this flow rate changes, stealing efficiency. Keeping within these sweet spots maximises your effeciency and leads to more predictable results. This predictability is key.
What did you do about the PH of the second mash. I would presume that when adding the grains to the wort would bring a lower PH would it not.
Brian Dempsey it would yes but I only adjusted ph for the first mash.
Great video, quick question, you state 300 ebc for crystal 150, which I understand is crystal light, which has an ecb of 145-165. Am I getting confused?
+Anthonyh Harper Well spotted, I was testing a beta at that time and it was doubling up on ebc. I will amend the youtube description.
David Heath thanks for the confirmation, looking forward to giving this a go. One other question, does ambient temperature make a big difference when ageing the beer? I assume u just use a sealed carboy at room temp?
+Anthonyh Harper . Yes it sure does. For ales optimum temperature is 14 deg c. For lagers 1-4 deg c. Hope this helps :)
Hey David, I did my first reiterated mashing yesterday for a similar imperial stout. Unfortunately I don’t have a grainfather yet so I did the whole brew with my electric kettle. It was on for a few hours, so 40 minutes through the boil, it overheated so it went on and off for the last 20. Should I worry about that?
It’s the first time I go for such big beer. I have 15 liters of wort at OG 1.085. I’m using a Mangrove M36. I rehydrated it for about 15 minutes before pitching. I took a few hours before any activity. Do you think it’s gonna handle it?
I’m planning on a 3 week fermentation, do you think I should pitch some more?
I apologize for throwing so many questions, and thank you! I’m really learning with your videos.
Sorry I must have missed this! Did it work out well for you?
Hey David, I bottled my imperial stout two months ago, opened one and it is already tasting great!
If something I’d say the head dissipates quickly.
I wonder how it’s gonna taste in a year time. Would the head improve? Probably not, right?
Thanks again for your videos, I’m learning a lot!
Great to hear. Head wise temperature plays a fair role but there is much more to it. Here is something you should find interesting:- www.craftbeer.com/craft-beer-muses/the-science-behind-beer-foam
How did you solve the sparge issues during the sparge? I’ve had issues with slow sparge a that took way too long but once sparring wasn’t sure how to remedy.
A slow sparge is going to be caused by a grain crush that is too fine.
According to the MJ specifications the M42 yeast can tolerate up to 12% ABV. Your beer ended up in the 13.5% ABV range. Didn't this high gravity cause any issues during fermentation?
That is true but like all yeast those are very conservative guidelines. I had no issues with this amount.
Hi David I havre tried to find info about in what type of temperatur you should have the stout rest for 1 year, what temperature? Shall I also use the air look on or just seal off the damejeanne. Thanks in advance and for all jour god videos!
Thanks. Ideally 14C but normal room temps will work too. Yes, use an airlock 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for your answer, now I need to wait for 1. Many nice tips from your videos,
Cheers Olle 🍻🍻🍻
The Grainfather G40 can manage a much larger grain bill. When brewing this exact same recipe on a G40, would you still recommend doing a reiterated mash to reach this level of efficiency? Or can it be done with only one mash on the G40 with comparable results? And if so, what water calculations would you recommend?
Hi Mark, totally right. Bigger sysyems can certainly mash this in one mash and you could increase the volume to one keg easily too 🍻🍻
Hello, I'm about to brew a stout with a grain bill just between 7 and 8kg. So just between the small and the regular pipe sweet point. I can change the grain bill but I have a questioN. Does the efficiency goes a little bit down if I use the regular pipe with 3,5kg of grain? Why using the small pipe is better with a small amount of grain? Thank you again for this so helpful video.
Hi, for this level of grain I would for sure use the small batch pipework as it will assist with reliable efficiency as part of a reiterated mash.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you:)
Hi again Dave. I am going to try a Russian Imperial Stout soon so I was thinking in a fact:
Have you think about a "reiterated sparge" positibility at the end of the second mash to increase the AVB? I mean, i.e. sparging with 3 lt two or three times in a bucket before adding to the GF for boiling.
I think it can be interesting to try.
Perhaps you have tried it before.
And another question: when you finish the first fermentation at carboy do you close it and wait i.e. one year or move the wort to another clean carboy? have you tryed both methods?
TY very much and happy brewing :)
HI Fernando. The second sparge is basically a top up sparge, otherwise you will go over the volume desired.
David Heath we do not increase volume if we use a bucket and then sparge with the same water...3 lts
oh sorry, now I get what you mean. Sure you can try this, I tried this some years back but found that it made little difference for me personally.
Ok Thank you. And what about the second question about carboy? Ty
You must transfer to another smaller carboy filling it up to the neck. If not then the beer with oxidise. See my video here showing the Imperial stout:- ua-cam.com/video/i1ptICwg8vo/v-deo.html
David-> why is there a mash-out at the end of the first mash? Why not do the mash-out only at the end of the second mash? Is there a reason for this approach?
Hi Mark, Please see my more recent video on this process. In short we need a mash out because we will be sparging inbetween the mashes. Here is a link:- ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
Great video!
One question: Why did you mash out on the first mash? Wouldn't it be better to mash out only after the last mash?
Bjørn Tore Åsmul Glad you liked the video:) No, its vital to mash out before a sparge. You do two sparges.
David, why is it vital? In planning my 1st mash I was NOT expecting to mash out. Thanks!
Edward Lamothe To prepare the grainbed for the sparge.
What if you did the first sparge at mash temp? The wort would be the correct temp for the 2nd mash. Then mash out on the 2nd mash. Thanks!
I agree. Don't understand why you would need to mash out twice.
So if I’m doing a 5 1/2 gallon batch of an imperial stout would I stick to the regular pipe work?
Hi Bryan, yes that would be best. Though you will find it easier if you brew less. I have a further guide to reiterated mashing here, which explains in more detail:- ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
Hello David! I'm about to try this method on my new 65L Brewzilla gen 4. At first I was thinking of using no sparge method as I could do my 14+kg grist for 23L batch on one mash but I wonder if it's a good idea? I'd need around 60% mash effiency and it's hard to tell if that is too optimistic.
In case I try reiterated mash I was wondering why did you decide to mash out the first malt pipe? I'd think it would be useful to have all the enzymes there for the second mash as well?
If I split the grain bill into two in Brewfather it gives me 24,6L mash water and 12,86 liters for the sparge water. Does this sound reasonable for the first mash? And then for the second mash I'd sparge so that I would hit the correct preboil volume, right?
For sure you need to sparge. The split method works well. Yes, go this way.
Right, thanks. What about your reasoning behind mashing out in between? Is there a benefit I'm unaware of?
You may skip mash out between.
Hi David, and thanks for your great channel.
I know you keep getting questions about reiterated mashing, but I am still wondering how the method would suit for a step mash. I am planning to brew a traditional Finnish sahti for Christmas. My target OG is going to be something like 1.100, and since the wort will not be boiled, magic has to happen in mash. Mashing schedule would be
45 min @ 60C
45 min @ 70C
15 min @ 80C
Do you see any reason why this couldn't be done twice with the same wort?
+ilperoFFF That sounds very interesting! I was actually in Finland recently for the beer festival in Helsinki. The only concern I have with all this is the last step at 80 deg c. This could lead to harsh flavours...or is that the idea?! :)
I heard that you would be there. Unfortunately I was too busy to visit the festival myself.
I have to admit that I am quite novice when it comes to brewing sahti, but I have spent some time studying the subject. It seems that many farmhouse brewers actually raise the temperature of mash to 80-85C at the end, and
+ilperoFFF Hmm ok, interesting. That would certainly give some unusual flavours! It was a great festival!
Sorry, it seems that I somehow managed to screw up that last comment. The comments section on UA-cam definitely could be more organized :)
I was about to continue that farmhouse brewers may also sparge with 80-90C or even boiling water. Why this is the case, I don't know. It just seems to be the traditional way of doing things. Apparently nordmenn aren't going this high with their maltøl mashing? Anyway, maybe I could change the last step to 15 min @ 75-77C and the after the second sparge just raise the temperature to 90C or thereabouts for sanitation?
+ilperoFFF Hi , no problem, I agree! Yes seems more of a sahti thing, could explain some of the harsh flavours of it. By taking things up to 75 deg c you are already at pasteurisation temps, so no real need for any higher for sanitation purposes.
Hi, interesting as always, at the end of the first mash wouldn't it be better to skip the mash out in favor of the second one? Ciaoooooo
Thank you.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Ciao, another idea is to use dark malts only in the second mash to not have too many tannins
Yes, though the idea behind this is to make the end result smoother. Personally I do not do this myself but I have suggested it in various other videos. There is also a more explained version video on the reiterated mashing technique that I made later on. ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you, Marry Xmas, ciao
Thank you, Merry Christmas :)
Do you think this recipe would work with Voss Kveik instead of mangrove jacks?
Then follow the fermentation/aging schedule for the super fast imperial, just don’t use the sugar?
Yes, it certainly will 🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks for the quick reply. Brew day is tomorrow! Incoming imperial stout
Great, enjoy :)
You mention a slow Sparge done manually. How do you Sparge slowly? The rate of Sparge surely is governed by the little holes in the bottom plate and how fast/slow the grain bed drains. With a Coller type mash you regulate the Sparge by the Outlet and input to match keeping the Sparge Liquor a centimetre or so above the grain bed until the outlet is at some SG figure and then stop.
Also, is there a non-manual way to sparge?
I am going to experiment with this, which is why I am interested. I liked your way of emptying the spent grain, thenks.
James
Hi James, there is a trend these days for people to position their sparge water heater above their kettle and open the tap. This has a negative effect compared to a manual sparge.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew, Thanks for the quick responce. I had considered using a similar system into my wirlygig Fly Sparge Arm but I could not think of a safe way of getting the water up high enough. A pump was the next bet but they cost so a plastic jug is what I use.
Grainfather.uk suggested I fully drain the grain bed before Sparging but I find that difficult to do based upon my original Cooler and Fly Sparge arrangement where it was important to keep the Grain Bed wet and undisturbed.
Fully draining the grain bed is a fast route to a stuck sparge, avoid that for sure! If you can find an automated sparge method that gives full grainbed cover then go for it, though I have not found anything that I am happy with personally that is worth the cash.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Many thanks again for your reply. That advice came from a GF-UK email exchange. I replied that it was against all principles and have not complied with their advice. It may be of course that I read the mail wrongly? I will remain with the status quo.
Odd really but it could have involved a typo I guess.
if you were to store this in a white oak barrel, would you store it the entire year in the barrel?
That, for me, would depend on the age of the barrel or how it has been prepared. Some new barrels can be very strong in their oak flavour at first.
Hi David, i have a reiterated mash question for you. Using the normal pipework i did a brew with a grain bill of 7.6kg (not reiterated) and quickly fell into problems with a fine crush and very slow sparge/run off. I still have a stock of crushed (by LHBS) grain for a beer and the grainbill will be 7.6kg. So now i am thinking of doing this using the reiterated method. Do you think 3.8kg is too small for the standard pipework? Given my grain crush, which method do you think would be better? Thanks
Hi Tom, How many litres will this beer be for? Have you seen my new reiterated mash video? ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
Also do you have any rice hulls? They will counter that very fine crush for you :)
Thanks David, I used a handful of oat husks from my LHBS on my last brew, even with a grainbill of 4.8kg just to avoid any problems with a fine crush. This time I want to make a 21 litre (final, in the fermenter) batch. My own malt mill is on the shopping list-any advice on brand for this too?
Great :) Malt mill wise go for the best you can afford. I use a “Monster mill”. It works but can be annoying like any mill :)
had a crack at this Dave! Wanted your thoughts on the sparge volumes before I had another go.
As the first sparge uses higher volume 9ie. 10L v 3L), wouldn't it be best to try and balance this out? measuring the sparge water on 1st sparge I was getting 1.007 at end of volume, but was still in 1.025 when i reached boil volume on the the 2nd sparge.
Keen to hear your thoughts
+daeshain Hey :) You could certainly try that but for me it hasn't been as effective. I think its having more water , that isnt as rich in sugar for the second mash that helps. Did this method not work well for you final gravity wise?
Definitely got higher efficiency which as you said was the goal. 90%. Final gravity 1.087, but didn't think it was worth the larger effort. going to try with a 10kg grain bill on a stout, see if I can crack 1.100!
+daeshain Well naturally this method can be applied where you need it :)
true! good method to have up my sleeve! Thanks for sharing Dave! Bloody awesome as always mate! :)
+daeshain Anytime :)
Could you substitute the new world yeast with lallemans kveik?
Sure, it will work well. It will change the numbers a little but no problem.
So this is quite interesting, because with that BH % you could experiment with going even higher abv? same kg amount with the small batch pipe, but do a third mash in or go with 4 ish kg on the regular pipe and two mashes. interesting! New experiment soon? :)
Hi David, I actually have a newer video here that explains this in better detail. It is a method that I have used alot and since these videos many others have given great feedback and results also. Here is the link:- ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for the tip David!
Would DME and sugar not be more efficient overall?
Hi Andy, You can certainly use DME and sugar. In terms of DME there is a difference in cost and some would say quality of the final beer. For some it feels like cheating. I have shown both methods here on my channel. Here is an example:- ua-cam.com/video/2yS_IdlvS_U/v-deo.html
In terms of sugar you have a limitation of 20% of fermentables before this will compromise the taste of the beer, it just doesnt sit well. The other potential issue is that this lowers the body of the beer, which some feels changes to desired profile of such a beer. Also to mention that in terms of reiterated mashing I have a video that explains this technique in more detail here:- ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
I hope this all helps :)
I am have a question, why do you mash out after the first round? Why not keep some enzymes for the second mash?
Its an optional part
@@DavidHeathHomebrew thanks
I will be doing a 26 L batch of Imperial Stout. I will do a reiterated mash. This means I will split the 11 Kg grain bill in 2. 5.5 Kg each .
I need 18.35 L for mashing and 17.05 for sparging. I go through the first step, where I mash, mash out and sparge. Assuming the calculations are right, I will end up with 29 L of wort after the first mash and sparge.
If I insert the grain basket and mash in another 5.5 Kg in the 29 L of wort, it will not fit. It will not fit even with only 26-27 L of wort.
So how exactly do I proceed? Do you have an idea?
Thanks in advance.
+Mihai Mahu I would suggest that you bring your volume down. The most I have brewed is 25L. The GF by standard is a 23L system.
Ce ti-a iesit ?
Hi. Do you add yeast when you bottle imperial stout?
+Vidar Bentestuen Hi Vidar, Yes. For a full guide take a look at this video :- ua-cam.com/video/hyCNxiSFARo/v-deo.html
David Heath tanx :-) has pitchingrate any thing to say when Adding bottle yeast?
+Vidar Bentestuen I would use the same amount for the batch that you would use for fermentation for the same batch size.
Did you crack out a second teaspoon given the gravity? For the yeast....
Actually no :) Ive tried regular vs upgraded pitching for kveik with high gravity wort and found little difference. Crazy stuff :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew it's completely different by the sounds of it
I've noticed that you keep mentioning the importance of stirring in the protein foam in many of your videos. I can't find any other forum or article recommending this, and I keep wondering why. What I read most places is that people either skim the foam off, use anti foam tablets or just leave it foaming (unless it's boiling over). Would you care to explain why to do this? Will it affect the taste of my beer for the better?
.
Okay I calculated it, your 93% is actually 67% efficiency, which is a respectable number for your setup and this high of a gravity
🍻🍻🍻Much appreciated 🍻🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew we discussed that years ago already😂😂
David I did not like the music playing in the background on this video, you asked for feedback, I know that you don’t do it anymore but I wanted you to know
Thanks for the feedback. My videos have gradually changed.
Hi David, been spinning my wheels trying to convert a recipe over to a reiterated mash for a 35L 220v Brewzilla. Hoping you can help.
Brewfather user here. I have a 5.5 gal batch volume and a 25 lb 8oz grain bill. I'm really struggling to determine what my starting mash water volume and first sparge amount needs to be.
I played with the Grainfather calculator but it gave me way too much sparge water. I'm probably overthinking this but any guidance you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Cheers 🍻
I would suggest watching this and use the half method shown in the video. Keep your calculations in Brewfather for accuracy:- ua-cam.com/video/C-7NiGZgKyQ/v-deo.html
@@DavidHeathHomebrew I tried this but the numbers that the Grainfather calculator gave me put me over the mash volume limit after the first sparge.
Original recipe
5.5 gal batch
PB Vol: 7.33 gal
25.5 lb grain
Mash water: 5.88gal
Sparge: 3.59gal
Total: 9.48
Mash Vol: 7.93
The Grainfather calculator says for a 5.5 gal batch and 12.75 lb grain weight (half of the original grain recipe), I should start with 5.05 gal of mash water and then sparge with 3.19 gal of water.
If I'm calculating this right based off of numbers coming out of Brewfather, my grain absorption should be around 1.22 gal. Going off of that - Mash water + sparge water - grain absorption = pre-mash #2 volume. 5.05 + 3.19 - 1.22 = 7.02. If I add my mash #2 grain on top of 7.02 gal it's going to overflow my kettle. What am I doing wrong here? I'm sure I'm missing something.
Thanks in advance.
You are going to need to adjust batch volume until it fits :)
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Ok, gotcha. I wasn't sure - you made it look so easy. I figured I was missing something. Thanks!
You cannot brew quite as much as usual, it's a shame, I know :)
Grinnell
Hmm? :)
So how did it taste?
Tasting/judge scores video is here:- SuperFast Imperial stout VS Regular Imperial stout 4k HD ua-cam.com/video/OsGmSpBe0KE/v-deo.html
hi David. can u tell me better about that method? for example by a paper? because I don't understand very well with the audio. I'm not really confidence in English listening 😀
Francesco Colaneri No problem at all. I am happy to answer any questions that you have.
David Heath ..just if u can tell me more about the various step to do. thanks a lot for all. very very nice videos (I hope to do that a day 😀)
Yes ok sure no problem. It breaks down like this:-
1) Make your recipe as normal
2) Look at the amount of malt you will be adding
3) Work out which pipework is best for dividing up your malt into amount that will allow high efficiency.
Regular pipework:- mash efficiency best at just over 4kg and no more than 5kg
Small batch pipework:- mash efficiency best at 2.5kg to 3.5kg
4) Mash as decided. First mash will have a full sparge as if this was a brew just with the malt in your first mash. Use the GF online calculator to calculate the water to use for the grain at the start and also the sparge. Mash in and mash out.
5) When you sparge use a mix of hot and cold water to bring your wort down to the temperature you need for the next mash. Remove the grain totally .
6) Add the rest of your grain to the grain basket and do your second mash. Mash out as normal. Look at how much wort you have and calculate how much you need to sparge with to get your pre boil volume.
7) Do your second sparge with that smaller amount...use 75 deg water this time.
8) Do your boil and everything else as normal.
I hope this helps :)
David Heath oh really great.. I think that I understand that time. in case of problem can u help me an other time? thank u
Anytime Francesco, always happy to help.
Could i use LME
Yes, no problem. Though this will be more expensive.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew ok
Confratia
Thank you :)
Hey David, thanks for the video.
How big is your yeast starter for this one?
I'm planning to make a 20 liter Russian Imperial Stout, with one package of M42 yeast.
What volume do you suggest? Thanks in advance!
+Miguel van der Hiele I didnt use a starter but mine was a 15L batch. You should be ok to simply collect half a litre of the wort after mash out and once its down to room temps pitch the yeast into that to hydrate it. Its a fast yeast. It takes off after 1.5-2 hours from pitching.
David heath
Master batch new opening
Modified base
Micro area chocu flavour
Ganglion of trades
Ok?