Anytime doing cat work plug replacement isn't the worse idea or at least making sure there isn't any misfires or issues that caused the cat to fail in the first place. But then again cheap cats fail all the time !. This guy covers his bases instead of just replacing parts he asks questions and diagnosis the underlying issues he's a excellent tech 👏👍👌good job my man
So I found this video incredible useful. Same problem. Customer never came back after first cat but said took four months to come back on. Two years later I am here. Warranty on the CAT. Didn't last a day. Look at the Parameters and found it took way to long to work even once I pushed the engine to warm up. Took about 20min. Installed the original one since I had it still. Took about 5min to start working. Going to try and complete monitors. If you want an update let me know.
I remember getting this code. Found out, the "Engine Oil Cooler" was leaking oil on top of the Catalytic Converter shield, and increasing the temperature of the Catalytic Converter, triggerring the P0420 code. Once I swapped out the Engine Oil Cooler, there was no more oil leaking on the Catalytic Converter. I cleared the code, and no more issues. Crazy, how an oil leak from the Engine Oil Cooler, caused the P0420 code to come on for the Catalytic converter.
I know someone that had the same car with same issue, over $1200 , 2 after market converters, all sensors replaced... she got a full refund from the shop she took it to because the car kept throwing the same code. I kept telling her it needs a OEM converter .she ended up getting rid of the car...
I am currently at work and dealing with the same issue on the same vehicle. Thank you for the great information. It makes sense after you showed the conditions needed. I use the same scanner and it did exactly what you graph was showing. Took about 5 minutes for the cat to reach temperature then everything functioned as it should. Thank you again.
This was a recall. Doesn’t matter what converter you put on it the ecm is allowing the engine to produce very harsh and high temperature exhaust gases .. the ecm needs reprogrammed by GM.
29:18 The official GM drive cycle for running emissions monitors always starts by idling the vehicle in drive with the rear defroster and A/C on for 2.5 minutes. I'm surprised you didn't catch this. I also don't understand why the companies that manufacturer aftermarket cats don't make them correctly. They have to know that any shop that installs one and has the P0420 code come back is going to warranty the part AND make a labor claim against the company which is going to cost them money.
That's what I was thinking, the orange rubber check valve in the intake manifold is missing. I had 220,000 miles on my 2011 1.4 Cruze. 226 deg temp was my normal temp. Live in florida
There is a kit available online to delete that stupid rubber check valve in the intake. When that valve fails, that is why the valve covers fail and the seals start leaking. The online kit gives it an external check valve that is way more reliable and easily serviceable without replacing the whole intake.
My concern would be testing the new cat before repairing the high fuel trims. Chances are that could be the original cause. Fix or bypass the purge problem, clear codes for a fresh start, then retest. Don't get me wrong, aftermarket parts suck, but I can certainly understand budgets.
I’ve spent 20 years in a dealership and 20 years in the private sector as a master technician. I to have been burned way too many times by inferior aftermarket parts. Good video as always and thank you.
What kind of aftermarket do you have experience with? Is it the really cheap kinds on ebay that's made in China crap? What's your experience with magna flow? Do you consider them cheap aftermarket as well?
When i was younger i worked for a company that Cast automotive parts . I was a "Tester" and would pressure test parts for leaks.. What i do know about that is we didnt test all parts as that according to them was too time consuming, which it Was, up to 4-5 mins Per part and each Basket was packed with about 300+ and we would get dropped off a basket load every hour, 24/7 . They would Never get to the customer in a timely manner . So what they had us do was test a few of them and send them All off to be shipped without testing every single one . Now if the place making these, pumped out hundreds upon hundreds of these per hour or even the whole day, it wouldnt surprise me if they only test like every 1 of 20 or so and call it a day .
Thanks for sharing Eric. Edit: I will be adding Catalytic Converter to my OEM ONLY replacement parts list. Already have MAF, O2 sensors, vvt actuators, fuel pump and crankshaft position sensor.
On never cars if it’s a California emission vehicle the EPA cats don’t work good enough the keep the check engine light off you need OEM or a CARB approved
I saw this same problem about 6 months ago where I work. Chevy Cruz with a reoccurring P0420 right after an aftermarket catalytic converter was installed. We got an OEM catalytic converter and compared it to the aftermarket one and the size difference was just like the two in your video. The new OEM Catalytic converter worked perfectly and the P0420 code never returned after it was installed. Another way of checking the catalytic converter is to measure the temperature before and after the "cat" with an automotive digital thermometer, the outlet temperature should be at least 50 degree's Fahrenheit hotter than the inlet temperature, of course the aftermarket "cat" did not pass that test. As far as the fuel trims removing fuel (reading negative), I have seen this happen normally just because the evaporative canister purge valve was being commanded open to purge the canister. Once the catalytic converter is replaced you may find there are no more problems, the negative fuel trims might be doing what they are supposed to do (just pulling fuel from the injectors to compensate for the rich condition caused by the purging of the evaporative canister). If a rich code shows up, then I would investigate the evaporative system further.
@@rokeishamoore7959 If this question was for me, unfortunately, I can't help much as I only do diagnostics and not parts availability or prices. My best guess is a Chevy dealership.
I was reading a bulletin for PCV system vacuum leak. Could be your problem Eric. I hope this helps. Service bulletin numbers are PIP5197 and PI0907C. The downstream O2 should read about .45 volts after closed loop.
Check the valve cover valve. I mean the positive bin gases diafragm on the valve cover sometimes get damaged allowing gases from the oil bin to enter the intake making the trims going nuts and the end result is that code for the catalyst. Just check that round valve on the valve cover.
ERIC, AWESOME information this is the thing happen when people try to cut by using aftermarket product to safe money it comes back and bit them cheeeeeeers.
When an OEM is literally 15 times the price like it is on my 02 Honda Accord V6 ($150 for aftermarket vs $2250 for OEM) you don't have much of a choice.
I just got p0420 code showed up on my 2005 Toyota Echo. I am going to troubleshoot and repair it next week. Thanks Eric for your video it really helpful. Greetings from Canada!
I have a Cruze and a Sonic both with the 1.4t. I don’t use nothing but oem parts. Thanks for the video because if I was going to cheap out on something it might be the cat.
You're damn good. Do not over fill the gas tank. That makes it very easy for the vaccum to suck fuel into the evap canister. Especially when a person drives a bit hard after over filling the tank.
The charcoal canister isn't between the fuel tank and the engine. So vaccum isn't going to suck gas into the canister. Also driving hard makes vacuum lower not higher. Over filling the tank can over saturate the charcoal then pulling gas out of the canister
3 other things that might could P0420 You might want to check the valve cover the pcv built in the valve cover goes bad if has air coming out of it then you need a new valve cover. Also a little orange rubber check valve in the intake goes bad alot. Also they are known for the turbo cracking at the waste gate very easy to see once converter is removed. I have seen this code come up for these 3 reasons
If that happens then the car has a bad hesitation. I went threw all of that already. If pcv is busted then the orange nipple in the intake manifold is gone n causes the pcv to bust. I changed all that already. I’m having a po420 code also. I put all that on new already. It runs perfectly smooth. It did get a po420 on it couple months ago and my cat was clogged. I took it off and the mesh was busted inside. It was making my bank 1 sensor to burn out. So I put a brand new catalytic converter on and put on new o2 sensors. My car picked up to 32 to 33mpg now. But every now n then I’m still getting a po420 code and I don’t have any vacuum leaks anywhere. I think he’s right cause I used an aftermarket cat on mine also and it fixed the stalling out and stuff but still dealing with the code every now n then. But I have good fuel economy and my turbo isn’t spitting out oil. Idk I’m at a loss of words rn. I’m like this guy in the video. I think these aftermarket converters is the issue now cause it can’t warm up fast enough for the computer system checks. Cause before I mean my car wouldn’t hardly run. It would for a few mins n then it go into like limp mode. Now it runs fine but just throws that code sometimes. I believe I’m just gonna leave it as it is. It runs to good to hurt anything I wouldn’t think right now. I believe it’s just not heating up fast enough is all. I sure can’t afford to pay a 800$ or more bill for a cat lol. Soon as I did my luck one these dumbass dope heads prob go by and cut it out from under it for a pill or meth lol. So I say I’m just stay with way mine is for now unless it starts acting stupid again. Long as it has good fuel economy and runs smooth is all matters anyways for me. I can clear that code. Cause it don’t come on often. It has to be something like that to cause it motor runs to smooth and has good fuel economy and this is a brand new crate engine
I still get the cat code and my converter was replaced under GM warranty before 80k (at least according to paperwork, I can't recall if I checked lol) Always comes and goes, always by itself. 🤷🏻
I just bought a 2016 cruze limited from a dealer that has their own in house service. They replaced the converter about a month before we bought the car, and its been in a few time now under warranty luckily, with the same code. They are replacing the converter hopefully with a OE converter.
This the only video that describe everything to a t. I have 2011 chevy cruze it does same thing dont know if its aftermarket or not bought from advance auto parts but will most definitely look.
IE I replaced front wheel bearings and half shafts on my 07 Serra and about five years later one of them is already bad. I replaced it with a OEM hopefully it will last longer. Doing it myself and I hate doing anything twice.
Eric, curious to know what fuel trims were like and how fast upstream O2 responds before new cat was installed. I constantly do smog related diags. Just some key points, any fuel trim issues should be monitored before a cat replacement, perform O2 sensor rise time test, and look at mode 6 data for every system component. Mode 6 is essential for proper repairs. Liquid fuel out of evap line for me is a done deal on the canister. O2 rise time should be 100ms or less.
100 ms or less Rise Time on Carbureted vehicles. 85 ms or less on Fuel Injected vehicles. Is CAT or CATS still good ? Cranking CO2 Test : 1) Engine running 2 minutes @ 2,500 RPM 2) Disable Ignition System 3) Crank Engine for 10 seconds , after 10 seconds H-C's should be less than 500 HC PPM - CO2% should be greater than 12.5 %......If both readings or just one reading fails , the CAT is a failure. Ex Smog Repair Tech. Southern California ( 90802 )
It could be good idea to insulate the converter around to get it heated sooner after starting the cool engine? Also to check the motor valve cover (plastic) pressure ventile (involved permanently to the plastic cover, so need to replace the whole cover), and also the intake manifolds small ventile (orange nipple, also need to replace the whole manifold!)
I once encountered similar problem on Holden Cruze at a friend's shop where all data looked normal but check engine light keeps coming back on with O2 related fault, I cannot remember the exact fault code. They have replaced catalytic converter and both upstream and downstream oxygen sensor too. But problem couldn't be rectified. At the end we found some articles where ECM updated calibration was the real fix. Bizzare but it was the fix. Just wanted to share if it ever comes to that on the Cruze you are working on. Cheers
I hear Toyota raised the catalyst efficiency threshold so high, aftermarket cats don't cut it with them either! I'm sure others too. Some auto-parts dealers claim to stock 'premium' aftermarket converters to deal with this problem - of course for a 'premium' price!
You notice in the OEM requirements, the engine coolant temperature took over 6 minutes to get near the 195 temp! That thermostat is either not closing all the way, or coolant is bypassing around the t'stat! You replace that, flush the cooling system, replace that purge valve with an OEM part, monitor the voltage on the purge valve control side to be sure it's NOT purging at idle, and that should help the cat toeet it's conditions. Also make sure the throttle body is clean and the air filter is new.
Funny thing here is that the purge valve is purging lightly during idle. I wasn’t sure if that was normal because I always thought purge valves were supposed to be closed during idle. When I look at the scan tool it shows around 14% duty cycle. So the computer is commanding it to come on during idle.
Ya that 14% purge don't sound right. If you find the evap code for the purge valve which would give the operating conditions. That might help. Maybe putting the trans in drive loads the engine enough to change the fuel trims? I can't see how GM would expect the purge valve to be the fuel for idle speed. Just a thought.
Paramaters for the p0420 on these vehicles seem a bit too tight as do many. No doubt aftermarket cats can't seem to cut it. One thing i find interesting is when you block the crankcase vapors from entering the evap system the fuel trims really change. Can't that indicate you have excessive fuel vapors in the crankcase??
Had the same issue with my 2006 Honda Accord cheeped out bought an after market cat. It would not reset the code. I had to buy OEM and the issue was solved. The sad part the cat was fine but the flanges rotted off. The joys of living in New England.
ugh... Same problem in my 2008 HHR. Except the thing with mine is i replaced the converter because it was physically broken.. No codes prior and then got the P0420 after the aftermarket replacement. So stupid.. I wanted to save money but guess I gotta bite the bullet
So with a bad purge solenoid, when you fill the tank, you actually displace all the vapor in the tank and push it all through the failed solenoid into the intake causing poor starting and a rich condition after refill. You are likely seeing fuel vapor on the end of the hose.
Exact same scenario happened to me on an 01 Acura MDX. Strange part is, the code was active for about 4 drive cycles, then completed the monitor and passed on its own. Check engine light turned off, no codes on the scan. I put a defouler on it anyway though as it is a family vehicle and I don't want it becoming an issue later.
I believe after model year 2006 ALL catalytic converters have a ten year 150,000 mile warranty if originally sold or destined for use in U.S.A per E.P.A mandate
Fantastic diagnostic approach to fixing all the issues! Hope an OEM converter for that Cruze is way cheaper than one for my car- some punks stole the one off my 02 Honda Accord V6 and an OEM replacement is over 2 GRAND!!!!! At that price point I have no choice but to try an aftermarket. I ordered a direct fit Walker brand & am praying it will work.
Hey man, yeah those aftermarket Catalysts are junk, and may not cut it, however I would also advise in future cases of this to make sure you pull the spark plugs, and check for oil on top of the piston if you have repeat 420 codes. Sometimes, due to using regular gasoline in these cars, they can develop super small cracks on the piston head due to predetonation. In this case it may not set a misfire, and just cause the catalyst to be less efficient. We've seen a small number of these being the case in the dealerships.
Cats dont heat up well when saturated w fuel...is the canister saturated w fuel from the vent valve malfunctioning or the vent valve fresh air port being blocked??? Snap-on hats, china tools. 19:00 look how well its working, let me scroll up so you dont see the problem exists still and will damage this new cat again. LTFT -17 still. Cause there is a proper way tp test the evap system without just throwing parts at it...
Hey thank you for this video I have been pulling my teeth trying to figure this out. I am going to order a oem cat . I was trying to help a lady out with a 2012 Cruz . A shop put on a aftermarket one and had this low efficiency P0420 Now it makes sense. Thanks for your help 👍.
I had a customer with a Toyota PU that had the same failure. I diagnosed with a bad cat. Since if was under 80k miles I told her to take it to the dealer because it was still in the EPA warranty period. Yeah the dealer fixed it. Light was off. Only thing was that when the tail pipe testing was tightened, two years latter, her truck failed the emissions test. What the dealer had done is changed the car's computer code not to show the emissions light for a bad cat. Warranty period over now. Maybe get your self a dealer programing tool to fix your brother's car. Her situation turned into kind of a sticky problem. I reported the dealer to the state which did no good. She solved the problem by falling in love with a guy that took her to another state that does not test cats. Everything fixed that ends fixed.
At 16:40... You mention "funky fuel trims", when contrasting things youre calling into question, i wanna add that questionable lean mixture is generally is affiliated with the pcv system, I'm thinking if the system assumes its lean then the appropriate fuel needed [richer condition] wouldn't cause the converter to heat more or sooner due to the lack of fuel saturation in converter, over a normal condition. -these valve covers suck... Another thing, we should be able to see temperature status of both sensors, which wasn't shown in the video [unless i missed it] Try doing a fuel trim reset through scan tool in com "special function mode", just a reminder, clearing codes doesn't automatically reset these [I have this on kia/Hyundai that were lean]
I just subscribed to your channel yesterday this is the channel I have been looking for , worked as a mechanic for years but have been out of the profession for approx 15 years so I was looking for something more technical than the elementary side of repair , doing my own builds now I have a great scan tool and have taken off with it by watching your videos thank you brother 👍🏻. BK. In CT
My car is running super rich like -30+. I replaced purge valve and even dodbthe intake manifold fix to bypass the faulty PCV inside. I also replaced fuel injectors with OEM, as well as 02 sensors. what else could cause to run so rich? Evap canister, leak? I appreciate any feedback.
it could be your front catalytic converter... when it's clogged, it doesn't always throw the po420 code right away and it can mess with your 02 sensor which in return messes with your fuel ratio... This just happened to me and I drove the car until it started acting very weird... cat is done for now
Chevy recalled their converters on this year vehicle. The fix is to let them reprogram the ECM so that the exhaust temperatures aren’t so harsh. Without this reprogramming that car will eat through converters. Might be too late for reimbursement for the converter but they’ll still program it for ppl.. likely free. It’s on NHTSA.
My mom's 2014 Cruze has the p0420 code and the p0299 code which i already taken care of but the car is very laggy/slow to get up to speed no matter if i drive it auto shift mode or i use the manual shifting. Any ideas?
I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze with 1.4L engine it has 180,000 mile. I have been getting a P0420 code. I would go away and come back. I fixed it just by disconnecting the Negative side on the battery 1st. Now find the computer it’s on the side where the battery is. It’s has 3 connectors on it. I disconnected all 3 connectors and cleaned each side male and female connector with CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner. Let it dry 15 minutes. I plugged all 3 back in. I installed negative battery cable. I started and drove the car 50 miles. It never came back. Update The p0420 came back. I will probably look at replacing the Catalytic CONVERTER NEXT.
Too much gas in the tank is how you get fuel in the evap system. The evap system is not meant for you to click the fuel pump handle a bunch of times until fuel is pouring into the canister
I'm glad to see an updated video I have a Chevy Cruze 2012 LTZ Turbo and I've been dealing with these same type of issues change off aftermarket Cadillac converter and Etc still having some 420 code problems I just don't have this type of scanner but I'm glad you speaking on it maybe I can learn something
The biggest issues is cheap parts, plastic leads to overheating. People push it trying to get somewhere rather than shut the engine down and get it fixed. I see more blown head gaskets. Most budget owners don’t change the timing chains either. When I have it tore down I replace, everything, oil pump, water pump too. It’s not cheap. I’ve advised people that just want the head gasket replaced only. You have to check the block and heads for warping. Sometimes it’s better to go junkyard motor. I get junkyard 1.4 L motors for $200. I have to pull them at u pull and swap them out. That’s $1500 for a swap. Problem is it’s risky because you don’t know how that motor was serviced. You get a 90 day warranty. It’s a swap only. If you’ve changed your oil and serviced your vehicle it’s always preferred to fix a known engine. Change your oil, change your oil every 3,000 miles.
Take an 18mm spark plug anti fouler and drill it out for the downstream o2 sensor to fit in but leaving the small hole in the end. put the sensor in the anti fouler then the the whole thing in the pipe.. Will never have a p0420 again. Problem solved
If you don't need to pass a full emissions test, since the aftermarket cats don't have enough precious metals to keep the engine light off you can just get a mini cat spacer for the rear oxygen sensor to keep the light off - O2 Sensor Protective Shell Plug Adapter with Mini Catalyst M18 x 1.5
@@save2rave61 it's definitely the cat. Only other cause of P0420 is exhaust leak near the primary cat. They can easily foul the cat if you ran an active misfire or didn't address the pcv failure with the fix kit
Lots of good feedback. Ive been having P0420 for at least a year. This video was very good and informative. The data that you explain and go through is helpful as well as your GM explanation/specs. and troubleshooting awesome. Question , is there a follow up to this video? Was interested to see how it all turned out long term.
I am having the same issues on my 2011 cruze. The car has 250000 miles on it. The Chevy dealer wants 850 for the converter. I live in a county that requires immisions and I the car won't pass because of the p420 code. Do you think I should replace the converter or should I give up on this car. I also have an oil leak somewhere but I can't find it. Thanks in advance. Carlos. Stafford VA
Just a heads-up try use California compliant Cat. Converters. I have had success when using aftermarket cats, after replacing failed Federal compliant catalytic converter‘s. For some reason after using California spec cats. The vehicle don’t come back. Or you can just put a spacer on the rear o2. 🤷♂️🙄
Great video series. You have natural teaching talent . I think you found your calling. You are up there with Scanner Danner and Ivan. Very enjoyable to watch and learn. And you know what they say, if you are enjoying the learning process , you will retain more information. Keep up the great work.
My 2012 Chevy Equinox does the same thing after fuel up. The mere filling of the tank pushes a lot of fuel vapors into the cannister for storage. When the engine starts and the ECM energizes the purge valve, those high amount of vapor will be pulled into the intake and burned. I can see -15 to -25 fuel correction. If I drive on the highway, it will return to normal after about 10-15 minutes as the excess vapors are burned up. I originally thought too it was raw fuel. The issues is that the correction, subtract fuel injection pulse, to compensate for the fuel vapor should not cause a rough idle, unless you have one or more cylinders that are marginal and cant handle the more lean condition. Also if you look at ignition timing, you will see the timing retarded past TDC to help heat up the CAT.
You mentioned that the after market converter wasn't heating up fast enough. Well it won't heat up until the engine heats up. It seemed that the engine took a long time to heat up. Just made it sound like you were saying the converter wasn't heating up fast enough. Can't get to operating temp unless the engine is up to temp...195 F +
Question: is there a possibility that because of the rich condition due to fuel in the evap system, The engine is fueling less during normal injection? then could less fuel from the injectors due to compensation cause the extended "cat warm up" time?
MOST AFTERMARKET (NONFACTORY) CATALYTIC CONVERTERS DONOT CONTAIN THE SAME AMOUNT OF CERIUM AS THE ORIGINAL PART. CERIUM IS THE ELEMENT THAT IS USED IN CATALYTIC CONVERTERS TO STORE OXYGEN AND HELP GETTING READY IN A SHORT TIME. EXCELLENT CHOICE AT THE END.
I have this code and I unplugged my purge valve and plugged it , to my surprise the code went away without me having to clear it . I wonder if this is why this code is such a problem, I can only assume it's a rich condition that sets a cat code, instead of a rich code. My downstream 02 sensor had a .7v average not moving more than .05 v .
I don't think the ecu runs the p0420 test on startup conditions. I'm imagining it occurs after cruising at speed, and coming to stop at a red light. Your RPM will have been over 1,110 for 5 seconds, your VSS will be less than 1.24 mph, engine run time will be long enough, ECT will be warmed up and greater than 104 degrees F, the test will be done soon after you come to the stop (within 50 seconds of stopping,) and you'll be in drive. These conditions will have the cat hot from driving, and the ECU will test the cat as soon as you come to a stop and idle. It'll be testing how quickly the cat cools off. I'd be interested to see the o2s1 and o2s2 graphs during those conditions, and maybe even a PID of injector pulsewidth or something to show the ecu has started the test.
Codes keep coming up but I’ve replaced my 02 sensors recently also. My intake valve has a bypass to the throttle body with a BNR spacer. I guess I’m not sure what to do. I’ve already put a lot of money into it. I drove about a 100 miles with the light then it came back on and hasn’t gone away.
Did you ever put a GM Cat into this car? if so did that fix the issue? Been doing all sorts of repairs after a bad turbo and bad head gasket. Trying to get rid of that pesky P0420 code to sell the thing. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
One of those channels where you don’t even need to watch the vid, just hit the thumbs up cause you know it’s gonna be good!
Isn’t that the truth
Exactly
I watch a lot of car mechanic channels and I can say that you are one of the most dedicated mechanics. Thank you for that and keep up the good work!
Anytime doing cat work plug replacement isn't the worse idea or at least making sure there isn't any misfires or issues that caused the cat to fail in the first place. But then again cheap cats fail all the time !. This guy covers his bases instead of just replacing parts he asks questions and diagnosis the underlying issues he's a excellent tech 👏👍👌good job my man
So I found this video incredible useful. Same problem. Customer never came back after first cat but said took four months to come back on. Two years later I am here. Warranty on the CAT. Didn't last a day. Look at the Parameters and found it took way to long to work even once I pushed the engine to warm up. Took about 20min. Installed the original one since I had it still. Took about 5min to start working. Going to try and complete monitors. If you want an update let me know.
I remember getting this code. Found out, the "Engine Oil Cooler" was leaking oil on top of the Catalytic Converter shield, and increasing the temperature of the Catalytic Converter, triggerring the P0420 code.
Once I swapped out the Engine Oil Cooler, there was no more oil leaking on the Catalytic Converter. I cleared the code, and no more issues.
Crazy, how an oil leak from the Engine Oil Cooler, caused the P0420 code to come on for the Catalytic converter.
Best channel I've been able to find on actual modern mechanic-ing
South main auto
I know someone that had the same car with same issue, over $1200 , 2 after market converters, all sensors replaced... she got a full refund from the shop she took it to because the car kept throwing the same code. I kept telling her it needs a OEM converter .she ended up getting rid of the car...
I think she made the right decision.
Getting rid of any Cruze is always the best decision.
some parts must be genuine parts
I am currently at work and dealing with the same issue on the same vehicle. Thank you for the great information. It makes sense after you showed the conditions needed. I use the same scanner and it did exactly what you graph was showing. Took about 5 minutes for the cat to reach temperature then everything functioned as it should. Thank you again.
it might be that the fuel vapor problem is the original reason for the code.
This was a recall. Doesn’t matter what converter you put on it the ecm is allowing the engine to produce very harsh and high temperature exhaust gases .. the ecm needs reprogrammed by GM.
@@topherd1011 and they will gladly reprogram it if you buy their $1000 converter to go with it.
29:18 The official GM drive cycle for running emissions monitors always starts by idling the vehicle in drive with the rear defroster and A/C on for 2.5 minutes. I'm surprised you didn't catch this. I also don't understand why the companies that manufacturer aftermarket cats don't make them correctly. They have to know that any shop that installs one and has the P0420 code come back is going to warranty the part AND make a labor claim against the company which is going to cost them money.
AT 16:20 what you can see here is the ecu compensating ltft at 19% for a rich condition..still.
Also with negative fuel trims on these 1.4 ecotec check the pcv check valve. If it's missing get a intake valve cover.
That's what I was thinking, the orange rubber check valve in the intake manifold is missing. I had 220,000 miles on my 2011 1.4 Cruze. 226 deg temp was my normal temp. Live in florida
There is a kit available online to delete that stupid rubber check valve in the intake. When that valve fails, that is why the valve covers fail and the seals start leaking. The online kit gives it an external check valve that is way more reliable and easily serviceable without replacing the whole intake.
My concern would be testing the new cat before repairing the high fuel trims. Chances are that could be the original cause. Fix or bypass the purge problem, clear codes for a fresh start, then retest. Don't get me wrong, aftermarket parts suck, but I can certainly understand budgets.
when aftermarket just wont do . its off to the dealer
I’ve spent 20 years in a dealership and 20 years in the private sector as a master technician. I to have been burned way too many times by inferior aftermarket parts. Good video as always and thank you.
What kind of aftermarket do you have experience with? Is it the really cheap kinds on ebay that's made in China crap? What's your experience with magna flow? Do you consider them cheap aftermarket as well?
When i was younger i worked for a company that Cast automotive parts . I was a "Tester" and would pressure test parts for leaks.. What i do know about that is we didnt test all parts as that according to them was too time consuming, which it Was, up to 4-5 mins Per part and each Basket was packed with about 300+ and we would get dropped off a basket load every hour, 24/7 . They would Never get to the customer in a timely manner . So what they had us do was test a few of them and send them All off to be shipped without testing every single one . Now if the place making these, pumped out hundreds upon hundreds of these per hour or even the whole day, it wouldnt surprise me if they only test like every 1 of 20 or so and call it a day .
Makes sense to me
Thanks for sharing Eric.
Edit: I will be adding Catalytic Converter to my OEM ONLY replacement parts list. Already have MAF, O2 sensors, vvt actuators, fuel pump and crankshaft position sensor.
Dude thank you for cracking the code for me. I was pulling my hair out over this.
Thanks for exposing this headache Eric.. Gm quality is job #1
On never cars if it’s a California emission vehicle the EPA cats don’t work good enough the keep the check engine light off you need OEM or a CARB approved
Had to use exhaust wrap on mine to make the converter heat up quicker and was able to make it work
I saw this same problem about 6 months ago where I work. Chevy Cruz with a reoccurring P0420 right after an aftermarket catalytic converter was installed. We got an OEM catalytic converter and compared it to the aftermarket one and the size difference was just like the two in your video. The new OEM Catalytic converter worked perfectly and the P0420 code never returned after it was installed. Another way of checking the catalytic converter is to measure the temperature before and after the "cat" with an automotive digital thermometer, the outlet temperature should be at least 50 degree's Fahrenheit hotter than the inlet temperature, of course the aftermarket "cat" did not pass that test. As far as the fuel trims removing fuel (reading negative), I have seen this happen normally just because the evaporative canister purge valve was being commanded open to purge the canister. Once the catalytic converter is replaced you may find there are no more problems, the negative fuel trims might be doing what they are supposed to do (just pulling fuel from the injectors to compensate for the rich condition caused by the purging of the evaporative canister). If a rich code shows up, then I would investigate the evaporative system further.
Where’s the best place to get oem converter for the Cruze?
How much did it cost at your dealership?
@@rokeishamoore7959 If this question was for me, unfortunately, I can't help much as I only do diagnostics and not parts availability or prices. My best guess is a Chevy dealership.
@@TOOUNFUNNY I don't work for a dealer ship and only work in diagnostics so I have nothing to do with pricing. Stuff is too expensive nowadays.
I was reading a bulletin for PCV system vacuum leak. Could be your problem Eric. I hope this helps. Service bulletin numbers are PIP5197 and PI0907C. The downstream O2 should read about .45 volts after closed loop.
Check the valve cover valve. I mean the positive bin gases diafragm on the valve cover sometimes get damaged allowing gases from the oil bin to enter the intake making the trims going nuts and the end result is that code for the catalyst. Just check that round valve on the valve cover.
ERIC, AWESOME information this is the thing happen when people try to cut by using aftermarket product to safe money it comes back and bit them cheeeeeeers.
When an OEM is literally 15 times the price like it is on my 02 Honda Accord V6 ($150 for aftermarket vs $2250 for OEM) you don't have much of a choice.
I just got p0420 code showed up on my 2005 Toyota Echo. I am going to troubleshoot and repair it next week. Thanks Eric for your video it really helpful. Greetings from Canada!
I have a Cruze and a Sonic both with the 1.4t. I don’t use nothing but oem parts. Thanks for the video because if I was going to cheap out on something it might be the cat.
Might not get seen but my 16 cruze had this issue and I went through 3 cats so I needed up getting a spark plug defouler and it fixed the problem
Good to know
You're damn good.
Do not over fill the gas tank. That makes it very easy for the vaccum to suck fuel into the evap canister. Especially when a person drives a bit hard after over filling the tank.
The charcoal canister isn't between the fuel tank and the engine. So vaccum isn't going to suck gas into the canister. Also driving hard makes vacuum lower not higher. Over filling the tank can over saturate the charcoal then pulling gas out of the canister
@@bigdaddymak1439 Some cars have a gas tank shutoff valve between the gas tank and charcoal canister to prevent raw gas from entering canister.
Im a welder myself and the welds are horrendous, porosity!!!
I'm not a welder and I thought they were crap too.
Must have been made on a monday or Friday.
3 other things that might could P0420 You might want to check the valve cover the pcv built in the valve cover goes bad if has air coming out of it then you need a new valve cover. Also a little orange rubber check valve in the intake goes bad alot. Also they are known for the turbo cracking at the waste gate very easy to see once converter is removed. I have seen this code come up for these 3 reasons
If that happens then the car has a bad hesitation. I went threw all of that already. If pcv is busted then the orange nipple in the intake manifold is gone n causes the pcv to bust. I changed all that already. I’m having a po420 code also. I put all that on new already. It runs perfectly smooth. It did get a po420 on it couple months ago and my cat was clogged. I took it off and the mesh was busted inside. It was making my bank 1 sensor to burn out. So I put a brand new catalytic converter on and put on new o2 sensors. My car picked up to 32 to 33mpg now. But every now n then I’m still getting a po420 code and I don’t have any vacuum leaks anywhere. I think he’s right cause I used an aftermarket cat on mine also and it fixed the stalling out and stuff but still dealing with the code every now n then. But I have good fuel economy and my turbo isn’t spitting out oil. Idk I’m at a loss of words rn. I’m like this guy in the video. I think these aftermarket converters is the issue now cause it can’t warm up fast enough for the computer system checks. Cause before I mean my car wouldn’t hardly run. It would for a few mins n then it go into like limp mode. Now it runs fine but just throws that code sometimes. I believe I’m just gonna leave it as it is. It runs to good to hurt anything I wouldn’t think right now. I believe it’s just not heating up fast enough is all. I sure can’t afford to pay a 800$ or more bill for a cat lol. Soon as I did my luck one these dumbass dope heads prob go by and cut it out from under it for a pill or meth lol. So I say I’m just stay with way mine is for now unless it starts acting stupid again. Long as it has good fuel economy and runs smooth is all matters anyways for me. I can clear that code. Cause it don’t come on often. It has to be something like that to cause it motor runs to smooth and has good fuel economy and this is a brand new crate engine
I still get the cat code and my converter was replaced under GM warranty before 80k (at least according to paperwork, I can't recall if I checked lol) Always comes and goes, always by itself. 🤷🏻
I just bought a 2016 cruze limited from a dealer that has their own in house service. They replaced the converter about a month before we bought the car, and its been in a few time now under warranty luckily, with the same code. They are replacing the converter hopefully with a OE converter.
This the only video that describe everything to a t. I have 2011 chevy cruze it does same thing dont know if its aftermarket or not bought from advance auto parts but will most definitely look.
I’m for OEM parts!! Especially when it involves a lot of work to replace the parts.
IE I replaced front wheel bearings and half shafts on my 07 Serra and about five years later one of them is already bad. I replaced it with a OEM hopefully it will last longer. Doing it myself and I hate doing anything twice.
Eric, curious to know what fuel trims were like and how fast upstream O2 responds before new cat was installed. I constantly do smog related diags. Just some key points, any fuel trim issues should be monitored before a cat replacement, perform O2 sensor rise time test, and look at mode 6 data for every system component. Mode 6 is essential for proper repairs. Liquid fuel out of evap line for me is a done deal on the canister. O2 rise time should be 100ms or less.
100 ms or less Rise Time on Carbureted vehicles.
85 ms or less on Fuel Injected vehicles.
Is CAT or CATS still good ?
Cranking CO2 Test :
1) Engine running 2 minutes @ 2,500 RPM
2) Disable Ignition System
3) Crank Engine for 10 seconds , after 10 seconds H-C's should be less than 500 HC PPM - CO2% should be greater than 12.5 %......If both readings or just one reading fails , the CAT is a failure.
Ex Smog Repair Tech.
Southern California ( 90802 )
Well done! Probably the most useful information I have seen yet on the Cruze cat system!
It could be good idea to insulate the converter around to get it heated sooner after starting the cool engine? Also to check the motor valve cover (plastic) pressure ventile (involved permanently to the plastic cover, so need to replace the whole cover), and also the intake manifolds small ventile (orange nipple, also need to replace the whole manifold!)
I once encountered similar problem on Holden Cruze at a friend's shop where all data looked normal but check engine light keeps coming back on with O2 related fault, I cannot remember the exact fault code. They have replaced catalytic converter and both upstream and downstream oxygen sensor too. But problem couldn't be rectified. At the end we found some articles where ECM updated calibration was the real fix. Bizzare but it was the fix. Just wanted to share if it ever comes to that on the Cruze you are working on. Cheers
That factory Cat looks good , address fuel trim problem and put in a new set of spark plugs, turbos wear plugs fast.
SO WHAS the problem fixed? i installed a new oem CAT AND still same issue. New O2 sensors. New PCV valve :(
I hear Toyota raised the catalyst efficiency threshold so high, aftermarket cats don't cut it with them either! I'm sure others too. Some auto-parts dealers claim to stock 'premium' aftermarket converters to deal with this problem - of course for a 'premium' price!
You notice in the OEM requirements, the engine coolant temperature took over 6 minutes to get near the 195 temp! That thermostat is either not closing all the way, or coolant is bypassing around the t'stat! You replace that, flush the cooling system, replace that purge valve with an OEM part, monitor the voltage on the purge valve control side to be sure it's NOT purging at idle, and that should help the cat toeet it's conditions. Also make sure the throttle body is clean and the air filter is new.
Funny thing here is that the purge valve is purging lightly during idle. I wasn’t sure if that was normal because I always thought purge valves were supposed to be closed during idle. When I look at the scan tool it shows around 14% duty cycle. So the computer is commanding it to come on during idle.
I just wish I had a known good vehicle to compare it to.
Btw I did use an OEM purge valve.
Ya that 14% purge don't sound right. If you find the evap code for the purge valve which would give the operating conditions. That might help. Maybe putting the trans in drive loads the engine enough to change the fuel trims?
I can't see how GM would expect the purge valve to be the fuel for idle speed. Just a thought.
What happens when you disconnect the battery cables and short them together for "X" amount of time?
Paramaters for the p0420 on these vehicles seem a bit too tight as do many. No doubt aftermarket cats can't seem to cut it. One thing i find interesting is when you block the crankcase vapors from entering the evap system the fuel trims really change. Can't that indicate you have excessive fuel vapors in the crankcase??
Had the same issue with my 2006 Honda Accord cheeped out bought an after market cat. It would not reset the code. I had to buy OEM and the issue was solved. The sad part the cat was fine but the flanges rotted off. The joys of living in New England.
ugh... Same problem in my 2008 HHR. Except the thing with mine is i replaced the converter because it was physically broken.. No codes prior and then got the P0420 after the aftermarket replacement. So stupid.. I wanted to save money but guess I gotta bite the bullet
So with a bad purge solenoid, when you fill the tank, you actually displace all the vapor in the tank and push it all through the failed solenoid into the intake causing poor starting and a rich condition after refill. You are likely seeing fuel vapor on the end of the hose.
I've installed a few of the Davico brand converters and didn't have any problems. Quality control with mounting points was my only complaint.
Exact same scenario happened to me on an 01 Acura MDX. Strange part is, the code was active for about 4 drive cycles, then completed the monitor and passed on its own. Check engine light turned off, no codes on the scan.
I put a defouler on it anyway though as it is a family vehicle and I don't want it becoming an issue later.
I believe after model year 2006 ALL catalytic converters have a ten year 150,000 mile warranty if originally sold or destined for use in U.S.A per E.P.A mandate
Fantastic diagnostic approach to fixing all the issues! Hope an OEM converter for that Cruze is way cheaper than one for my car- some punks stole the one off my 02 Honda Accord V6 and an OEM replacement is over 2 GRAND!!!!! At that price point I have no choice but to try an aftermarket. I ordered a direct fit Walker brand & am praying it will work.
How did your aftermarket walker work out for you?
Hey man, yeah those aftermarket Catalysts are junk, and may not cut it, however I would also advise in future cases of this to make sure you pull the spark plugs, and check for oil on top of the piston if you have repeat 420 codes. Sometimes, due to using regular gasoline in these cars, they can develop super small cracks on the piston head due to predetonation. In this case it may not set a misfire, and just cause the catalyst to be less efficient. We've seen a small number of these being the case in the dealerships.
You have to take care of your family before anyone else!! Nice work
Cats dont heat up well when saturated w fuel...is the canister saturated w fuel from the vent valve malfunctioning or the vent valve fresh air port being blocked??? Snap-on hats, china tools. 19:00 look how well its working, let me scroll up so you dont see the problem exists still and will damage this new cat again. LTFT -17 still. Cause there is a proper way tp test the evap system without just throwing parts at it...
Hey thank you for this video I have been pulling my teeth trying to figure this out. I am going to order a oem cat . I was trying to help a lady out with a 2012 Cruz . A shop put on a aftermarket one and had this low efficiency P0420 Now it makes sense. Thanks for your help 👍.
I wonder if changing the air filter would help with the fuel issue?
I had a customer with a Toyota PU that had the same failure. I diagnosed with a bad cat. Since if was under 80k miles I told her to take it to the dealer because it was still in the EPA warranty period. Yeah the dealer fixed it. Light was off. Only thing was that when the tail pipe testing was tightened, two years latter, her truck failed the emissions test. What the dealer had done is changed the car's computer code not to show the emissions light for a bad cat. Warranty period over now. Maybe get your self a dealer programing tool to fix your brother's car. Her situation turned into kind of a sticky problem. I reported the dealer to the state which did no good. She solved the problem by falling in love with a guy that took her to another state that does not test cats. Everything fixed that ends fixed.
At 16:40... You mention "funky fuel trims", when contrasting things youre calling into question, i wanna add that questionable lean mixture is generally is affiliated with the pcv system, I'm thinking if the system assumes its lean then the appropriate fuel needed [richer condition] wouldn't cause the converter to heat more or sooner due to the lack of fuel saturation in converter, over a normal condition.
-these valve covers suck...
Another thing, we should be able to see temperature status of both sensors, which wasn't shown in the video [unless i missed it]
Try doing a fuel trim reset through scan tool in com "special function mode", just a reminder, clearing codes doesn't automatically reset these [I have this on kia/Hyundai that were lean]
Its the high ethanol content in the fuel. It doesn't burn like gas. It leaves water in the fuel and the o2 sensors think its fuel
Good video! I’d like to see a follow up video after the new converter is installed
I just subscribed to your channel yesterday this is the channel I have been looking for , worked as a mechanic for years but have been out of the profession for approx 15 years so I was looking for something more technical than the elementary side of repair , doing my own builds now I have a great scan tool and have taken off with it by watching your videos thank you brother 👍🏻. BK. In CT
The engine temperature is kinda low at 175. Do you think there is a problem with the thermostatic radiator valve?
YOUR STUDY CASE IS PERFECT.
Did you ever sort out the fuel trim issues ? Would love to see the follow up vid on this as i have EXACTLY the same problem using an OEM cat.
Your brother owes you big time😀 It’s nice to see a family that supports each other.
My car is running super rich like -30+. I replaced purge valve and even dodbthe intake manifold fix to bypass the faulty PCV inside. I also replaced fuel injectors with OEM, as well as 02 sensors. what else could cause to run so rich? Evap canister, leak? I appreciate any feedback.
it could be your front catalytic converter... when it's clogged, it doesn't always throw the po420 code right away and it can mess with your 02 sensor which in return messes with your fuel ratio... This just happened to me and I drove the car until it started acting very weird... cat is done for now
Chevy recalled their converters on this year vehicle. The fix is to let them reprogram the ECM so that the exhaust temperatures aren’t so harsh. Without this reprogramming that car will eat through converters. Might be too late for reimbursement for the converter but they’ll still program it for ppl.. likely free. It’s on NHTSA.
Recall is only for 1.8L engine. This video has 1.4L turbo engine.
Ima welder and those welds look like mig wire and terrible.
Looked like a high school metal shop project!
My mom's 2014 Cruze has the p0420 code and the p0299 code which i already taken care of but the car is very laggy/slow to get up to speed no matter if i drive it auto shift mode or i use the manual shifting. Any ideas?
How’d you fix it? The P0420 and P0299
I have Chevy! I have a Cruze and experiencing the same issue after just changing mine, you fix one thing and another thing goes to shit.
I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze with 1.4L engine it has 180,000 mile. I have been getting a P0420 code. I would go away and come back. I fixed it just by disconnecting the Negative side on the battery 1st. Now find the computer it’s on the side where the battery is. It’s has 3 connectors on it. I disconnected all 3 connectors and cleaned each side male and female connector with CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner. Let it dry 15 minutes. I plugged all 3 back in. I installed negative battery cable. I started and drove the car 50 miles. It never came back.
Update
The p0420 came back. I will probably look at replacing the Catalytic CONVERTER NEXT.
Too much gas in the tank is how you get fuel in the evap system. The evap system is not meant for you to click the fuel pump handle a bunch of times until fuel is pouring into the canister
I'm glad to see an updated video I have a Chevy Cruze 2012 LTZ Turbo and I've been dealing with these same type of issues change off aftermarket Cadillac converter and Etc still having some 420 code problems I just don't have this type of scanner but I'm glad you speaking on it maybe I can learn something
The biggest issues is cheap parts, plastic leads to overheating. People push it trying to get somewhere rather than shut the engine down and get it fixed. I see more blown head gaskets. Most budget owners don’t change the timing chains either. When I have it tore down I replace, everything, oil pump, water pump too. It’s not cheap. I’ve advised people that just want the head gasket replaced only. You have to check the block and heads for warping. Sometimes it’s better to go junkyard motor. I get junkyard 1.4 L motors for $200. I have to pull them at u pull and swap them out. That’s $1500 for a swap. Problem is it’s risky because you don’t know how that motor was serviced. You get a 90 day warranty. It’s a swap only. If you’ve changed your oil and serviced your vehicle it’s always preferred to fix a known engine. Change your oil, change your oil every 3,000 miles.
Take an 18mm spark plug anti fouler and drill it out for the downstream o2 sensor to fit in but leaving the small hole in the end. put the sensor in the anti fouler then the the whole thing in the pipe.. Will never have a p0420 again.
Problem solved
If you don't need to pass a full emissions test, since the aftermarket cats don't have enough precious metals to keep the engine light off you can just get a mini cat spacer for the rear oxygen sensor to keep the light off - O2 Sensor Protective Shell Plug Adapter with Mini Catalyst M18 x 1.5
Will
It cause any other codes to pop up
@@save2rave61 no the oxygen sensor back there just monitors primary cat efficiency
I have a p0420
Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank one
On 2012 cruzy 1.4 turbo. Now I’m thinking it may not be cat.
@@save2rave61 it's definitely the cat. Only other cause of P0420 is exhaust leak near the primary cat. They can easily foul the cat if you ran an active misfire or didn't address the pcv failure with the fix kit
I had that problem replaced replaced the catylic converter from ebay and still had the light turned out the downstream sensor was bad
I am dealing with the same issue, I also followed and replaced many of the same components and to no avail I still have the p0420.
Lots of good feedback. Ive been having P0420 for at least a year. This video was very good and informative. The data that you explain and go through is helpful as well as your GM explanation/specs. and troubleshooting awesome. Question , is there a follow up to this video? Was interested to see how it all turned out long term.
Yeah, what's the follow up?
I am having the same issues on my 2011 cruze. The car has 250000 miles on it. The Chevy dealer wants 850 for the converter. I live in a county that requires immisions and I the car won't pass because of the p420 code. Do you think I should replace the converter or should I give up on this car. I also have an oil leak somewhere but I can't find it. Thanks in advance. Carlos. Stafford VA
Just a heads-up try use California compliant Cat. Converters. I have had success when using aftermarket cats, after replacing failed Federal compliant catalytic converter‘s. For some reason after using California spec cats. The vehicle don’t come back. Or you can just put a spacer on the rear o2. 🤷♂️🙄
You are a smart tech,the charcoal can is soaked and sub par cat's should never be used on forced inducted engines .
can you clean the original cat?
Great video series. You have natural teaching talent . I think you found your calling. You are up there with Scanner Danner and Ivan. Very enjoyable to watch and learn. And you know what they say, if you are enjoying the learning process , you will retain more information. Keep up the great work.
I have a 14 chevy cruze that's good to know if I ever run into that trouble.
Where you able to get a positive repair after that original cat?
My 2012 Chevy Equinox does the same thing after fuel up. The mere filling of the tank pushes a lot of fuel vapors into the cannister for storage. When the engine starts and the ECM energizes the purge valve, those high amount of vapor will be pulled into the intake and burned. I can see -15 to -25 fuel correction. If I drive on the highway, it will return to normal after about 10-15 minutes as the excess vapors are burned up. I originally thought too it was raw fuel. The issues is that the correction, subtract fuel injection pulse, to compensate for the fuel vapor should not cause a rough idle, unless you have one or more cylinders that are marginal and cant handle the more lean condition. Also if you look at ignition timing, you will see the timing retarded past TDC to help heat up the CAT.
You mentioned that the after market converter wasn't heating up fast enough. Well it won't heat up until the engine heats up. It seemed that the engine took a long time to heat up. Just made it sound like you were saying the converter wasn't heating up fast enough. Can't get to operating temp unless the engine is up to temp...195 F +
I am not able to find the follow up to this video. Did you have any updates for us? Thanks for what you do!
I have the PO420 and they said it was the they turbo prior to that we're having bad shifting points and it sucked
Question: is there a possibility that because of the rich condition due to fuel in the evap system, The engine is fueling less during normal injection? then could less fuel from the injectors due to compensation cause the extended "cat warm up" time?
o2 sensor adapter may work
MOST AFTERMARKET (NONFACTORY) CATALYTIC CONVERTERS DONOT CONTAIN THE SAME AMOUNT OF CERIUM AS THE ORIGINAL PART. CERIUM IS THE ELEMENT THAT IS USED IN CATALYTIC CONVERTERS TO STORE OXYGEN AND HELP GETTING READY IN A SHORT TIME. EXCELLENT CHOICE AT THE END.
I have this code and I unplugged my purge valve and plugged it , to my surprise the code went away without me having to clear it . I wonder if this is why this code is such a problem, I can only assume it's a rich condition that sets a cat code, instead of a rich code. My downstream 02 sensor had a .7v average not moving more than .05 v .
I don't think the ecu runs the p0420 test on startup conditions. I'm imagining it occurs after cruising at speed, and coming to stop at a red light. Your RPM will have been over 1,110 for 5 seconds, your VSS will be less than 1.24 mph, engine run time will be long enough, ECT will be warmed up and greater than 104 degrees F, the test will be done soon after you come to the stop (within 50 seconds of stopping,) and you'll be in drive. These conditions will have the cat hot from driving, and the ECU will test the cat as soon as you come to a stop and idle. It'll be testing how quickly the cat cools off. I'd be interested to see the o2s1 and o2s2 graphs during those conditions, and maybe even a PID of injector pulsewidth or something to show the ecu has started the test.
Codes keep coming up but I’ve replaced my 02 sensors recently also. My intake valve has a bypass to the throttle body with a BNR spacer. I guess I’m not sure what to do. I’ve already put a lot of money into it. I drove about a 100 miles with the light then it came back on and hasn’t gone away.
So how much were the cheapo one vs the OE one? What is the difference?
Damn lucky ass little brother to have you as his brother you know your shit!
Did you ever put a GM Cat into this car? if so did that fix the issue? Been doing all sorts of repairs after a bad turbo and bad head gasket. Trying to get rid of that pesky P0420 code to sell the thing. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Other than OEM we use MAGNAFLOW cats when $$ is an issue
What's the follow up? Did it solve your CEL?
You also could check thermostat function at cold start up?