from cincy oringinally love the old sckool drag shops and hobby stores as well dou i cant thank you enough thanks for sharing sweet vett lub me some vettes dad always had 3 or four in the drive an yes i had to detail fully every one sneak um out on sat night or any chance i got very nice build i loved it thanks again scooter
You didn't explain how you remove the paint other than immersing it in the alcohol. I have used that technic before and the paint does not just fall off the body that easily. You have to work at removing the remaining paint. What did you use to remove the paint completely?
at 2:15 I mention the use of an old toothbrush. All you need to do is brush off the paint. For Carrera cars that's usually enough. Some require a tad more elbow grease.
Hello, I have a rare Japanese tomy pointed rollbar camel slotcar but someone painted over the side camel decals with blue paint. How can I remove the blue paint without removing the camel decals? Thanks
It looks like you didn't burnish the edges of your tape when you masked. That or the tape you used is either poor quality or old. . I don't think you paid close enough attention when you were masking. Masking is more important than painting if you want clean lines. I don't understand your "not sweating the details" comment. That's the whole point of what you are doing. You are _detailing_. That hood and all the bleed-in on those body line depressions where you didn't properly press the tape in to the lines would have led me to strip that body and start over. Sure, driving the car will make the exterior appearance degrade with use but a screw-up in the paint will _always_ look like a screw-up no matter how worn or dirty the body looks over time. . I really recommend using fresh top quality fine line automotive masking products. Also, thick liquid mask with a set of pin striping brushes makes super sharp lines in places where tape won't settle in to minute depressions or indentations like super thin body lines (although, if you take your time when laying the tape and burnish your tape edges properly and you use the right kind of tape for the situation, that shouldn't be a problem). Another thing, your paint can be too thin. This can cause the paint to uncontrollably "migrate" along depressions due to capillary action so choosing your paint type and brand makes a difference. Migration can also be caused by applying too much spray at once. . In some situations, the very best lines I ever got were with plain old Scotch Tape (cello tape). Cello tape, applied with patience and attention to detail and properly burnished, makes razor fine edges.
@@scooterdoughmas3012 Burnishing is the act of using a tool such as a popcicle stick or a chopstick or your fingernail or similar tool to rub the edges of the tape to ensure the adhesive sticks well along the entire edge of the tape. This is to ensure that there's no gaps at the edge of the tape where the tape doesn't fully adhere to the body. A wrinkle or gap in the tape sticking down is where paint will bleed under the tape and ruin the line. Burnishing helps to prevent this. If the tape that you are burnishing is clear, you can actually see the adhesive sticking to the surface as you smooth the edge down.
Just what I was looking for 🤗Thank you for posting....Harry
No problem 👍
Good video. Your very humble that's 1 of the reasons I watch your videos,that's a good quality. 👍
That’s a great tutorial, thanks for sharing this 👏🏁
thank, i hope it is helpful.
@@drsaleen88 you bet it was!
from cincy oringinally love the old sckool drag shops and hobby stores as well dou i cant thank you enough thanks for sharing sweet vett lub me some vettes dad always had 3 or four in the drive an yes i had to detail fully every one sneak um out on sat night or any chance i got very nice build i loved it thanks again scooter
Nice work, cool video! Micro set and Micro sol would really help with the decals. Just a suggestion.
You didn't explain how you remove the paint other than immersing it in the alcohol. I have used that technic before and the paint does not just fall off the body that easily. You have to work at removing the remaining paint. What did you use to remove the paint completely?
On Carrera cars I only used a toothbrush. 99% rubs right off. Sometime you need a little more elbow grease.
at 2:15 I mention the use of an old toothbrush. All you need to do is brush off the paint. For Carrera cars that's usually enough. Some require a tad more elbow grease.
Not bad, not bad at all. I think I’ll give that a go one day.
looks pretty amazing to me.
Thanks
Great job thank you.
I'm super terrified to modify my MP4-12C GT3 since I have a bad history with paint and decals. Do you ever do commissioned repaints?
It does take practice. Sorry, at the moment I'm not up for another project. Thanks for watching.
No sanding required?
99% of the time, no. Rarely you will have a spot that doesn't want to release.
great intel!
Hello, I have a rare Japanese tomy pointed rollbar camel slotcar but someone painted over the side camel decals with blue paint. How can I remove the blue paint without removing the camel decals? Thanks
where do you get your decals?
gundam077 typically I get them from Pattosplace
It looks like you didn't burnish the edges of your tape when you masked. That or the tape you used is either poor quality or old.
.
I don't think you paid close enough attention when you were masking. Masking is more important than painting if you want clean lines. I don't understand your "not sweating the details" comment. That's the whole point of what you are doing. You are _detailing_. That hood and all the bleed-in on those body line depressions where you didn't properly press the tape in to the lines would have led me to strip that body and start over. Sure, driving the car will make the exterior appearance degrade with use but a screw-up in the paint will _always_ look like a screw-up no matter how worn or dirty the body looks over time.
.
I really recommend using fresh top quality fine line automotive masking products.
Also, thick liquid mask with a set of pin striping brushes makes super sharp lines in places where tape won't settle in to minute depressions or indentations like super thin body lines (although, if you take your time when laying the tape and burnish your tape edges properly and you use the right kind of tape for the situation, that shouldn't be a problem).
Another thing, your paint can be too thin. This can cause the paint to uncontrollably "migrate" along depressions due to capillary action so choosing your paint type and brand makes a difference. Migration can also be caused by applying too much spray at once.
.
In some situations, the very best lines I ever got were with plain old Scotch Tape (cello tape). Cello tape, applied with patience and attention to detail and properly burnished, makes razor fine edges.
Thanks Big Ralph!
Learning curve
what did you mean by burnishing theedges
@@scooterdoughmas3012 Burnishing is the act of using a tool such as a popcicle stick or a chopstick or your fingernail or similar tool to rub the edges of the tape to ensure the adhesive sticks well along the entire edge of the tape. This is to ensure that there's no gaps at the edge of the tape where the tape doesn't fully adhere to the body. A wrinkle or gap in the tape sticking down is where paint will bleed under the tape and ruin the line. Burnishing helps to prevent this.
If the tape that you are burnishing is clear, you can actually see the adhesive sticking to the surface as you smooth the edge down.
Where did you get the decals?
Pattos Place