Timber Frame SketchUp Tutorial - Part 1
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
- Hints and tips for designing using SketchUp for woodworking or timber framing projects. Quickly learn how to use SketchUp to build 3D models using hotkeys for efficiency, creating re-usable 3D components. In Part 1, we get you through designing your first few components, making up the first bent of a simple timber frame. The frame in question is one built at the build your own timber frame workshop, at the North House Folk School: northhouse.org/
The program I'm using in this video is the free, downloadable version: SketchUp Make 2017
help.sketchup.com/en/download...
(download link is toward the bottom of the page)
At some point in the future, I'll have to try using the web-based version. Look for an update video on the topic of migrating to using the online version. - Навчання та стиль
Oh no.... Well I guess I don't need to ever sleep again. This is going to open up a lot of possibilities for me now. Thanks for the video bud
Yep
I think this is the best beginner Sketchup teaching video I've seen. It covers all the really critical points and does it so quickly. and 've finally learned how to use the tape measure tool after 20 years LOL. I do use X-ray all the time which I've set up with "X" as the short-cut key. It makes it really easy to use end-points in otherwise hidden components and the whole hidden joint. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! I'll have to try X-ray mode. I tend to rely on using "k" to see back edges, but they're hard to see sometimes.
Hello from Las Vegas Nevada
I like the information you provide, I need to look the video more times to get all of it.
GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY
Wow. This is the kind of info I needed for sketchup AND timber frame. Very nice
This is the best thing I have ever Experienced. I need to draw our new style of timber frame cabins - and draw the assembly process. This is absolutely ideal. Wonderful Video - Thank You
This is amazingly useful with simple explanations. It has removed so much of the mystery from Sketchup. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I’m so impressed with the content. I stopped watching half way through to make this comment. And say thank you. Now, back to the video.
Sketchup and timber framing. The best combo ever :D Thank you for great tutoral!!
Best video I've found on SketchUp!
Thank you. Glad you found it helpful.
I can’t thank you enough for this info, exactly what I was looking for. MERRY CHRISTMAS.
Merry Christmas.
This was SUPER helpful. Thank you!
You are welcome! Glad you found it useful.
Thats fantastic! thanks so much!
Great tutorial 👍
Such a good tutorial thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome. More please!
Man, I so much appreciate this post. In general, I use TF extensions for everything. However, at times the program requires some very specific inputs to do some simple items. For example, I spent way too much time figuring out scarf joints. TF extensions works great for basic mortise and tenon joints. I started applying the techniques provided in this video for the more complicated mortises and it actually saved me some time. Thanks again!
Thanks Jon! Glad it helped. If you ever hit something you can't figure out in SketchUp... challenge me with a question in the comments here and I'll do my best to figure it out.
Great video!
Thanks!
Great stuff, by the way.
Thanks!
One of the most useful sketch up videos I have seen - thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Incredibly useful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
wow that was such a good tutorial, i learned more in that 20 minutes than in 3 days of poking around by myself! thanks
Glad you found it helpful!
Moron!
Great video, thank you for posting. Question, I’m new to SketchUp and was wondering what plan you are using such as the free version or pro? Are you using a Mac or PC? The free version I’m using doesn’t look like yours... Thanks!
I'm using Sketchup Make 2017. Free version. On Windows PC.
I have a wall that is taller at one end then the other. Is it possible to multi copy a single stud in such a way that the top and bottoms of each stud are constrained by top and bottom lines so that each copy is a bit shorter than the previous? Or do I have to manually adjust each stud to the correct height?
I don't think Sketchup supports that kind of parametric associativity. I think you'd have to manually adjust. However, if you make use of components you can select several components at once and choose "make unique" so that the set you selected are still copies of each other. That way you could minimize the amount of manual effort required.
I have a question about using components. I've added the TF Rubies sample timbers (FS Timbers) in my plan, to use as components. Starting with sill beams, I'll want to create tusk tenons at corners, and bladed scarf joints to extend lengths. If I add those joints using a "base" component, wouldn't it affect all instances of the component in the model?
How should I apply a particular type of joint I want to a specific instance of a timber component? Do I need to select the specific timber in the model, Make Unique, then Make Component to create a different component, so it won't affect the other instances? For example, do I need to create a "Sill Beam Corner" and "Sill Beam Extended" components?
First, you're correct that the way to have it NOT affect all the other instances of the component is to first "make unique" on the component you wish to modify. This will add a suffix (I forget exactly what, but it adds a number to the end of the original component name to indicate it's a variation of the component) and it becomes a new component. The act of "make unique" already makes it a different component so there's no need to "make component" again. You might wish to rename the new component if you want the component names to really indicate the function.
How do I get the menu/info bar on the right side to show up?
Select Window Menu>Default Tray>Show Tray
Does anyone know if there's a plugin that already does all this for timber-framing in Sketchup? Thanks.
I've heard of a plugin called TF Rubies from some folks in the Timber Framers Guild Community Discussion Group in Facebook. I haven't tried it yet myself.
@@SalemWoodworks Yeah man. Thanks. I was able to talk to the guy who made it. Will be trying it out, soon. Thanks.
Where can I read about the rules of calculating the timber frame constructions? For example what thickness of the timber should I use depending on the dimensions of the frame? Could you advise anything? Thank you
This is a simple question with a complicated answer. I'm certainly not an expert. For the three fames I've been working with (one built, one in construction, and one in planning stages) I've relied on existing designs. The design in this video came from the North House Folk School's "build your own small frame course". I'm planning on building the 12x16 building from Will Beemer's book (amzn.to/3i8Mhqp).That book has some information about timber sizing. The truth is that it isn't simple. Sizing timbers depends on their function, the frame design, timber quality (splits, knots, grain orientation), species, ... it's a moderatly complicated science.
@@SalemWoodworks thank you sir
You make it look so easy... but ive had nothing but problems trying to duplicate your actions. Does the free version not work well for trying this? When I try to copy the first post I create, it usually only copys one face of the post.. sometimes two. when I span around I notice the other two sides of the post did not get colored either. Great video, I just cant seem to work the software well
I am using the free version (the downloadable one in the video description link). I'm almost sure that the step you're missing is making a component. If you're copying a post and only the face is coming, you likely forgot to make it a component, OR, you may have entered into edit mode for the component before making the copy. First, make the entity, then triple-click to select all connected entities, then right-click to turn it into a component. After creating the componet if you use move with the Ctrl option to make a copy, it should take all faces of the component when making the copy. Similarly, when using the materials, if you assign a material to a component, all faces of the component will get the material color assigned. If you haven't made a component or if you enter into edit mode for a component, assigning a material will be done onen face at a time. I suggest going back to the start and very carfully watching the part about creating a component.
@@SalemWoodworks Thank you for the reply. I did make a component.. but I did get a better result when I went back and realized I pushed the foundation up instead of down
is it possible to print thes parts scaled down on a 3D printer?
I'm no expert in 3D printing, but I don't see why not.
Hello. I am trying to make the haunched tenon, but for some reason I am not able to complete 'drag select'. It seems to select too much, or at least it doesn't look Like in your tutorial where only a part of the lines at the lower corner of the tenon are selected. In my case it selects all lines. And when I hit M for move, the haunch looks incorrect or warps the girder or pulls the entire tenon forward. I've got 2018 SU pro version for mac. Anyone got any workarounds for this problem, please?? Thank you for making this clear tutorial. Subbed.
The direction you drag makes a differrence. If you drag your box from left to right, everything that is entirely inside the box is selected. If you drag from right to left, anything that is even partially inside the box is selected.
@@SalemWoodworks Thank you for replying. Actually that is not the case. I have tried many times to drag from either side and still it does not select as you have shown. I think the problem is as in your vdo 09:12 when you zoom in on the edges around the tenon the lower three edges are auto highlighted in blue and red. I do not get that in my case. I do realise though that trying to solve my problem like this is difficult. I appreciate you taking time to do these layout and framing tutorials and will use them to come up with my own plan. Thank you again good sir.
Curious as to how the dimensions of the components are calculated?
It would be great to timber frame with components that are adequate for the design but not overkill.
Is there a simplified mathematical process that will aid in timber dimension calculations?
Sadly, there is nothing simple about this. Structural requirements vary by the beam type and loading and strength properties of the timbers vary by species, cut and quality. For simple building like this frame, you can rely on tried and true sizes that have been used in the past, as they are likely overdesigned for such a small structure (overkill by design). For more serious structures, lean on engineers or seasoned experts.
@@SalemWoodworks There are tables that refer to common dimensional lumber uses and capacities. One would think there would be similar information for timber applications common to timber framing. "Overkill by design" equates to waste which one can ill afford, especially these days. Few can answer the questions directly as to why a specific dimension of timber was applied for this component or that.
Appreciate the SketchUp tutorial though; very useful and helpful.
I have another question. I am struggling with making the mortise on the first post. I have created this once and wanted to start it over. Now every time I go to use the push pull to create the mortise it doesn’t push anything. I’m stumped. I have followed your steps one by one but... I’m missing something. One thing I did notice was when I’m putting in the references lines it does not find the Center as it had done so previously.
My first guess is you've forgotten to go into edit mode before drawing the rectangle that you push. First double click on the post to go into edit mode, then draw your rectangle, then push to form the mortise pocket.
I’ll give that a go. Thank you
That was it. Foow
@7:46 you flipped the post farther away from the model’s origin and it only flipped that post. I followed the same steps (I believe), but both posts get flipped. I have tried flipping the original post as well but it also flips the other post. I can’t make the mortise’s face each other. I’m on a Mac btw. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Okay I figured it out. I didn’t follow your steps. I kept triple clicking on the post which then kept selecting the original post. I just needed to select the post once. Then I could flip the one post individually
Glad you figured it out!
@@SalemWoodworks Thank you, I appreciate you checking in. However, I am almost here at the tail end of replicating this build, but I noticed the mortises made in the Girt and the Posts for the tenons from the knee braces were not made as an exact opposite of the tenons. I understand the way you made them will fit the tenons on the knee braces, but I am wondering if I were actually cutting the mortises should they complete enclose the tenon instead having some empty space between the mortise and tenon?
Good eye. Structurally, it matters very little. The important load-bearing face is where brace meets the bottom face of the mortise. You're right that it might be cleaner if the mortise pocket were the negative of the tenon, but it's easier to cut the mortise pocket perpendicular to the beam/girt/post face. On the frames I've built, I've cut the mortises like you see in the model here.
@@SalemWoodworks Thank you. I didn’t know that. That will make assembly much faster and easier in real life and in sketch up. I have finished part one and I’m on part 2!
Where are the housings for the braces?
The braces in this simple frame were not housed. This is one of the frames built in the "build your own small frame" course taught at the North House Folk School.
Thank you for the quick response! I appreciate the effort you make to help us with this program.
My only comment is to use actual lumber dimensions 6x6 is actually 5.5”
Except these timbers actually come from the mill a true 6x6.
Did you mean to leave the mortises for the knee braces not matching the angled shape of the knee brace tenons? See pages 31-32 of "PDF Historic American Timber Joinery: A Graphic Guide| 2004-08" NOTE: UA-cam didn't like the direct PDF link. Select the entire string within the quotes and the first result will likely be the PDF download.
Since the weight-bearing edge of the brace is at the far end, it's not critical to cut a mortise pocket that's angled on the inside face. In the frame I built, the mortise pockets for the braces were actually cut as I've drawn them in this video.
tYPING IN dimensions does not work
Sow-na
I know... just heard it the other way too many times growing up. Now saying "sow-na," sounds like I'm trying to affect an accent... lol
While this is an excellent tutorial, the frustration level and time wasted futzing about with SketchUp is ridiculous. Graph paper and scale rule for me please.
To each his own. Granted, I come at this with a CAD background. For me, I enjoy the futzing and I find it makes me quite productive. I enjoy the old school drawing as well.