Love your videos! I just ordered 5 low chill European plums for a Belgian fence espalier... 2 foot centers on planting. One alternate way of planting whips (2-3 foot as ordered) is to plant the tree at an angle that matches one of the two "vees" that each of the internal trees will have, training one bud for the opposite angle branch. Have you seen this method before? It gets one side of the trained form along a bit faster since you already have a tip bud growing along one direction, so you don't top the trees. Also I am not sure when spurs form. If I cut back water shoots to the third leaf will I form spurs if the pruning is done in late fall? Growing zone 9a here... So NOT Utah....so our growing time is we get blooms from late February to potentially late March (bloom onset, depending on the winter), and our first freeze isn't usually until mid October to mid November, sometimes even a Later. Just thinking of the latest pruning that will have time to push spurs....... Thanks.
Are there any trees outside the rose family that are good for this? Of course people have been doing it like this with the standard rosacea fruit trees for hundreds of years, but I'm always hesitant to have too many contiguous members of the same family. Maybe Mulberry?
Very interested in this subject. Keep putting out videos on your espalier fence and its progression. Would like to try this on a larger scale with wild trees on my farm.
Wow, glad I found your Belgian fence videos! I have some simple/tall espaliers started already but it is a pretty basic design. I've been torn between doing an apple, willow, or pear Belgian fence around my veggie garden. Will you try any other grafts on these or do you think those are better suited for a bigger espalier with a longer lateral branch?
Glad you enjoyed our videos! We won’t graft any more varieties on these trees. There are already seven varieties in the nine trees, but I don’t think there’s any reason you couldn’t graft more if you really wanted too. I think design wise it mostly comes down to pruning to keep the shape. I’d say whatever keeps it fun and functional!
Hi I got inspired by your Belgian fence. What do I do autum/winter season 2? Do I cut the leading branch back or do I leave them as they are? Regards Danish amateur gardener
Glad it's been inspiring! How thick are the trunks? -this could vary depending on how old the trees were when you planted them last year? If they were just baby saplings, winter season 2 would be a great time to cut back the leading branch looking for buds which will produce shoots to train they way you want. That's basically what we did in our first Belgian fence video: ua-cam.com/video/N0NA-OkS-Hc/v-deo.html
Hi I grafted my appeltrees on bareroted rootstocks february 2019 and cut them back to the two buds that became the leading branches this spring. So they are quite young.( 8-12 mm thick and 60-70 cm long)So, as I understand your answer I can/ ought to cut them back. Woould it be wise to cut them 10-15 mm back to a bud facing downwards? Regards Finn
@@kifinn1 It sounds like it is going well! I would focus on removing things that aren't growing in the direction that you want and you can cut back to buds that are pointing in the way you do want them to go (which may be facing more down then they are growing as new shoots often want to go more vertical). I don't think you will necessarily have to cut everything, try to keep in mind that cuts typically cause more branching and cuts made in the winter often encourage more vigor when they break dormancy in the spring.
Hi there. The trees on the outer edges growing up the posts did you prune them the same way initially as the middle trees, cutting the right back or did you let them grow up the post naturally and then just prune the side not needed and train the other side? (Hope this makes sense. 😬) Thanks for the video btw very informative. 🤙🏼
Hi! Thanks. Yes, I did prune them the same with with a low cut and then just trained one of the new shoots up vertically along the shoot and one shoot toward the middle at an angle like the others. As the vertical shoot grows, we have been selecting a side shoot to also train toward the middle. The one at the top will be very short and need a lot of pruning, but it will help to complete the pattern. Hope this helps!
Foodscaping Utah thanks for that.Been getting the area prepped and getting the posts in ready for the trees to be planted later on in the year. Just need to decide what rootstock to go for over here in uk.
Thanks! Depending on how vigorous the response is in the next month or so, I'll likely do some pruning at the end of July or early August, again pruning out really vigorous upright growth where there is crowding and cutting back to three buds places we want to keep some growth and develop spurs.
I grafted all nine of the trees to rootstock before I planted them as small seedlings. That was April 2018. There are seven varieties in this case just because there are two of two of the varieties.
The rootstock on these trees was EMLA 7. It's a semi-dwarf rootstock that has plenty of vigor. A fully dwarfing rootstock would be possible, but might make it more training and filling the space more challenging.
We sourced the rootstock locally and grafted them ourselves in early spring. Apple rootstocks can be ordered from Raintree Nursery which is out of Washington state.
Would love to see an update!
Yes an update would be great
it looks fantastic
Very informative and you make it clear to understand.
Glad it was helpful!
Love your videos!
I just ordered 5 low chill European plums for a Belgian fence espalier... 2 foot centers on planting.
One alternate way of planting whips (2-3 foot as ordered) is to plant the tree at an angle that matches one of the two "vees" that each of the internal trees will have, training one bud for the opposite angle branch. Have you seen this method before? It gets one side of the trained form along a bit faster since you already have a tip bud growing along one direction, so you don't top the trees.
Also I am not sure when spurs form. If I cut back water shoots to the third leaf will I form spurs if the pruning is done in late fall?
Growing zone 9a here... So NOT Utah....so our growing time is we get blooms from late February to potentially late March (bloom onset, depending on the winter), and our first freeze isn't usually until mid October to mid November, sometimes even a
Later.
Just thinking of the latest pruning that will have time to push spurs.......
Thanks.
Excellent explanation. thanks
Are there any trees outside the rose family that are good for this?
Of course people have been doing it like this with the standard rosacea fruit trees for hundreds of years, but I'm always hesitant to have too many contiguous members of the same family.
Maybe Mulberry?
BEAUTIFUL!
Thank you!
Very interested in this subject. Keep putting out videos on your espalier fence and its progression. Would like to try this on a larger scale with wild trees on my farm.
Will do!
How did you know what varieties to buy based on a full sized tree??
Wow, glad I found your Belgian fence videos! I have some simple/tall espaliers started already but it is a pretty basic design. I've been torn between doing an apple, willow, or pear Belgian fence around my veggie garden. Will you try any other grafts on these or do you think those are better suited for a bigger espalier with a longer lateral branch?
Glad you enjoyed our videos! We won’t graft any more varieties on these trees. There are already seven varieties in the nine trees, but I don’t think there’s any reason you couldn’t graft more if you really wanted too. I think design wise it mostly comes down to pruning to keep the shape. I’d say whatever keeps it fun and functional!
Awesome can't wait to see the next video 💕
Us too! Hoping it fills in for the next video.
Hi I got inspired by your Belgian fence. What do I do autum/winter season 2? Do I cut the leading branch back or do I leave them as they are?
Regards
Danish amateur gardener
Glad it's been inspiring! How thick are the trunks? -this could vary depending on how old the trees were when you planted them last year? If they were just baby saplings, winter season 2 would be a great time to cut back the leading branch looking for buds which will produce shoots to train they way you want. That's basically what we did in our first Belgian fence video: ua-cam.com/video/N0NA-OkS-Hc/v-deo.html
Hi
I grafted my appeltrees on bareroted rootstocks february 2019 and cut them back to the two buds that became the leading branches this spring. So they are quite young.( 8-12 mm thick and 60-70 cm long)So, as I understand your answer I can/ ought to cut them back.
Woould it be wise to cut them 10-15 mm back to a bud facing downwards?
Regards
Finn
@@kifinn1 It sounds like it is going well! I would focus on removing things that aren't growing in the direction that you want and you can cut back to buds that are pointing in the way you do want them to go (which may be facing more down then they are growing as new shoots often want to go more vertical). I don't think you will necessarily have to cut everything, try to keep in mind that cuts typically cause more branching and cuts made in the winter often encourage more vigor when they break dormancy in the spring.
Hi there. The trees on the outer edges growing up the posts did you prune them the same way initially as the middle trees, cutting the right back or did you let them grow up the post naturally and then just prune the side not needed and train the other side? (Hope this makes sense. 😬)
Thanks for the video btw very informative. 🤙🏼
Hi! Thanks. Yes, I did prune them the same with with a low cut and then just trained one of the new shoots up vertically along the shoot and one shoot toward the middle at an angle like the others. As the vertical shoot grows, we have been selecting a side shoot to also train toward the middle. The one at the top will be very short and need a lot of pruning, but it will help to complete the pattern. Hope this helps!
Foodscaping Utah thanks for that.Been getting the area prepped and getting the posts in ready for the trees to be planted later on in the year. Just need to decide what rootstock to go for over here in uk.
@@anguswilloughby2521 Great! Yes, it'd be good to do some research on rootstocks that are good for your climate and soil. I hope it works great!
Great video. What do you do with the new shoots comming from the cuts you made in June?
Thanks! Depending on how vigorous the response is in the next month or so, I'll likely do some pruning at the end of July or early August, again pruning out really vigorous upright growth where there is crowding and cutting back to three buds places we want to keep some growth and develop spurs.
When would you have graphed in different apple types?
I grafted all nine of the trees to rootstock before I planted them as small seedlings. That was April 2018. There are seven varieties in this case just because there are two of two of the varieties.
Hi, I was wondering what kind of rootstock you used for these trees and where/when to order them?
The rootstock on these trees was EMLA 7. It's a semi-dwarf rootstock that has plenty of vigor. A fully dwarfing rootstock would be possible, but might make it more training and filling the space more challenging.
We sourced the rootstock locally and grafted them ourselves in early spring. Apple rootstocks can be ordered from Raintree Nursery which is out of Washington state.
Keep up the videos!
Thanks! Will do.
Did you use dwarf rootstock?
This is awesome!
Amazing 🥰👌
Thanks!
Fan-tas-tic!
Thanks!