210 degrees is not overheating. perhaps your tune keeps your temps up. I know that a good tune kept my temp down to 180 degrees on a comfortably warm day. However, on hot days the temp is guaranteed to go up. good luck. I just bought one myself for another build.
You may be on to something with the mechanical fan and a good shroud. I was a mechanic at Chevrolet in the 70s. No electric fans then and the big blocks ran fine. 409,427,396, 454 cars trucks field trucks. Good shroud and fan. Electric fans came when the engine was turned sideways for front wheel drives. Thanks for the ride along. Hi from Nebraska.
I think that's where we are heading with car, I am gonna try taking a couple degrees out of timing and see what we get. But a short nose pump, nice fan and clutch with shroud are in my cart! 😆
I never had luck with those fan Shroud like you have fan needs to be at lest 3" from rad with shroud haft way on blade that way it pulls air threw the hole rad .you shouldn't even need a fan till you get in traffic. That shroud being a 1" away from rad is blocking air that should be flowing straight threw .car sounds nice thanks for taking us for a ride brother 👍👍👍👍👍👌
I tell ya bud, I am about an onion skin from getting a short waterpump and going to clutch fan and plastic shroud. Gonna try taking a couple degrees out of the timing and adding wetter water. If that don't do it then big changes coming lol. I think I will go back to my 3 row rad too if that's the case
Hey Bryan I like the fact that it looks like a factory tank on the top, I hope it works out for you it always suck when you have a problem that is hard to cure.
BW I caught your video a little late but agree with the other guys and think timing might be a problem. You will get it done and thanks for the ride 😊😊
Thats what I am thinking too Paul. Gonna do it during week, only cuz car show today and don't want mess with it as it'd currently running "ok" lol. Plus I can get my buddies to Rev motor while I adjust time during week
Check out Stewart Components water pumps. I used one on my 454 powered '50 Chevy along with a US Radiator "optima - Desert Cooler" copper/brass radiator to keep my car cool in 100+ degree weather using a single 16" pusher fan. Engine temps never get above 190 - 195 degrees and that's including the slow stop and go driving you do in a parade. The Stewart water pumps have higher volume over stock pumps. I've also had good luck with Edelbrock high volume water pumps but the Stewart pump is more budget friendly. LOve your '55. I built one several years ago with a big block in it. That's the car I used the Edelbrock water pump in. Never had an overheating problem with that car either.
Hey BW! Man I love hearing your 55 rowing through the gears! You should be very happy with the quality car you've built! I thinkn you'll get the temp figured out and 210 is not really all the hot for a worked over 454! Have a good one Buddy 👍
Your right brother, 210 is ok, shooting for under 200° without sacrifice of power. It's backfiring through carb, so maybe lean, might help both issues if I take a couple degrees out of the timing. Maybe just fatten it a touch too
Hang in there you will definitely get it figured out. I was going to say same thing take a little out of timing it should definitely help. Also see if you can find out why it’s back firing. Thanks for the ride along looked like a cool car show.👍😎✌️
Thanks for the ride. I think your have more success when you back off timing. I would also suggest making sure it’s not to lean. Not everyone agrees with mixer being too lean will cause over heating but I experienced it on a big block Chevelle. Just a thought…
Hey BW👋, Thanks for the ride along and and he might have something with timing there. Your misfire and heating up more then you want it too. Just don’t let it get to you. I know you’ll get figured out . Have a great weekend ✌🏻
Having fun trying to figure it out, the only thing I dislike at the moment is the cold case drain plug is in a different location and don't line up with my cut out. Lol
If your engine is running lean, that can make the engine run hotter. If you don't want to spring for a wideband air/fuel ratio gauge kit, then try going 3 or 4 sizes larger on the main jets on the primary side of your Holley, and see if that helps any.
This is good stuff, thanks. When I get a minute I am gonna check timing and possibly take 2 degrees out. Won't that fatten it up a bit? I had the engine on the dyno a while back, the engine shop did just what you suggested. He said it was popping so he rejet the carb till he found the best setup. He also says he put moroso indexing washers with spark plugs cuz the domes of pistons. He had said the domes was to high for the heads selected but made it work with the index washers. I bought this engine built on internet from abandoned build. Had it gone over at my engine shop.
what is your initial and all in at 2500 set at. Also have you pulled a couple plugs to see how they look? running to lean can cause some heat trouble as well. Just a cple thoughts.
Turns out the radiator I got from ebay was just as good as the cold case, what made the biggest difference is when I got rid of the aftermarket fans and modified a fan off of a early 2000s Lincoln MKX to fit. Pulls so much more air.
Sorry to give you this news. It's all about flow control and volume of fluid your moving. ( Remember I raced a dirt track circle track car for 12yrs } we ran them at 3 grand to 7+ grand for as long as 30 minutes on a 80 degree summer night. My water temp never hit 190*. pulley ratio is just as important as fluid volume. Rad-e ator problems 101.
I'm going to agree with some of the comments on here BW. Timing will make a difference. Popping through the carb could be a couple of other things. Good luck. 👍
BW love the ride along for sure, but popping threw the carb will run me crazy, because it could be several things just figured it out is the problem 😕. But back in early 80s had a 68 Camaro stock 327 , oh boy had 350 bored 60 over he took it out of a Nova said running a little hot for him , so I got it off of him to put in the Camaro, and it ran a little hot had got a 4 cor radiator got a little cooler then try a clutch fan and tem dropped pretty good i luck out. Hope you figure it out them oh Big Blocks run a little hot anyway. Sorry i am little late been in know man land on a Cat Fishing trip . Have a good one Bud ✌️
I think what this has clearly demonstrated is that the radiator isn't the source of your cooling problem. The next thing I would try is a stronger, larger (if room is available) pair of electric fans, mounted to a fabricated sheet metal shroud that covers and seals against the entire radiator core. When I say a stronger fan, I'm referring to the amps draw. The higher the amp draw, the stronger the motor is, and the fan blades won't slow down when the fan is up against the resistance of a radiator. Don't look at CFM ratings, because they are misleading. Also, buy fans with the widest fan blades that you have room for. Wider blades pull more air than thin blades.
You need to consider the possibility that the hot air is recirculating under the hood back to the front of the radiator! Regardless of the fact you are traveling down the road. Try sealing the front of the radiator to the grill which will force new air into the Rad.
Turns out I had an open vacuum port. Also, I put the 3 pass radiator back in and got a fan off an early 2000 Lincoln MKX and modified it to fit. Runs around 185-190 all the time now. ✌️
Have you had the car on the open road? My Plymouth will flirt with 220 in stop-and-go, never pukes when shut-off, and runs 185 down the highway all day long...and has been working like this for over 20 years. I just don't want you to over-think this if it's what the engineers call "operating as designed!" Retard the timing, make certain she's not too lean (backfiring) when not at operating temperature, then take her sad ass for an extended road test...driving her like you stole her! Also...I'm a big believer in running a thermostat...'just saying! Enjoy! Bro Harry
Sound advice Harry, I haven't puked in tank either, might be the case. I think it may be a hair lean too. Gonna take 2° out of timing this week and take it out. Thanks brother 🙏
Another thing that can help is installing an air dam below the radiator. The air damn causes a low pressure area behind the radiator which causes more air to get sucked through the fins. All modern cars have air dams below their radiators. With the chin breathing modern cars have do to the styling... the lack of an open grill doesn't flow much. Hence why the air dam to create that low pressure area.
Just to state the obvious, the temps will never drop under the thermostat temp regardless. Secondly, the radiator should be sized so it cools without fans at low highway speed, then you can rely on the fans at idle.
Most of the Chinese 3 rows are .60" or .66" wide tubes vs. the Cold Case's giant 1.25" tubes. The 1.25" tubes really should be combined with a lot of coolant flow to keep the turbulence up through the tubes. (High flow water pump and the water pump running at least as fast as the crank, unless it's a high RPM engine.) -If you don't have a high flow pump the Stewart pumps are about the best you can get for the money, PERIOD. Cooling efficiency can drop by up to 50% when the coolant flow through the tubes goes from turbulent to laminar flow (laminar at lower coolant flow rates).
I put the 3 row back in just cuz it fit better, I also changed fans and modified a early 2000s mkx Lincoln Fan that was much stronger than the aftermarket fans I had. Found root cause of heating issue, a open vacuum port hidden on back of carburetor. Now it runs 185 -195 all day even in traffic on hottest days
On my 460 (30 over 454) I am running a Weiand hi volume alum long water pump flex a lite fan with alum blades tallest I could fit in my shroud with 2" fan spacer and 160° Robertshaw hi flow thermostat. My car is a heavy 69 Z/28 (X 77 vin tag) Pro Street car using non ethylene glycol based jegs brand coolant (can't use conventional anti freeze when at drag strip) Never a hot issue - I did put 7 rib serpentine belt system on for she would throw standard v belts off after launch
I don’t get it thought you would get it to cool down doing that,,,kinda burns your a$$ if you know what I mean,but I don’t want to give you arm chair advice, I know you will do your research and figure out your next step to get it cooling better ,My fingers are crossed for you Bryan🤞🏻
Did you figure out the overheating? Retarded ignition timing will definitely put more heat into the coolant AND the headers. If you've got aluminum pulleys, they MIGHT be significantly underdriving the water pump, which won't help, either. (My 79 Corvette came with around a 1.2:1 water pump to pulley ratio; my aluminum pulleys changed that to 1:0.875... I'm trying to find someone to custom make me a 6.2" crank pulley so I can run them at 1:1.
I bought it to help, but it may be making it worse, gonna check timing before I make anymore big moves, it's backfiring through carb till it heats up. So maybe take 2 degree out and fatten the fuel mixture a hair?
@@bwsgarage , I see your problem , it's those two small fans and the other 30% percent of the Radiator is blocked with a sheet of metal , But it has louvers punched into it , Big Deal ! It's still being blocked from air flowing through , It looks cool 😎 ! Just doesn't perform cool !
Whujafigurout! Lean? Timing? Inquiring minds wanna know. My 💰's on better fan...I think those li'l 10-12 inchers only flow like 1600-1700cfm...Get a fan out of a '87 Thunderbird or a Mercury Mark XIII...they flow like 3000-4000cfm. There's my 2🪙 anywho....
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
210 degrees is not overheating. perhaps your tune keeps your temps up. I know that a good tune kept my temp down to 180 degrees on a comfortably warm day. However, on hot days the temp is guaranteed to go up. good luck. I just bought one myself for another build.
Your onto something with tune, that's next on the list.
You may be on to something with the mechanical fan and a good shroud. I was a mechanic at Chevrolet in the 70s. No electric fans then and the big blocks ran fine. 409,427,396, 454 cars trucks field trucks. Good shroud and fan. Electric fans came when the engine was turned sideways for front wheel drives. Thanks for the ride along. Hi from Nebraska.
I think that's where we are heading with car, I am gonna try taking a couple degrees out of timing and see what we get. But a short nose pump, nice fan and clutch with shroud are in my cart! 😆
I never had luck with those fan Shroud like you have fan needs to be at lest 3" from rad with shroud haft way on blade that way it pulls air threw the hole rad .you shouldn't even need a fan till you get in traffic. That shroud being a 1" away from rad is blocking air that should be flowing straight threw .car sounds nice thanks for taking us for a ride brother 👍👍👍👍👍👌
I tell ya bud, I am about an onion skin from getting a short waterpump and going to clutch fan and plastic shroud. Gonna try taking a couple degrees out of the timing and adding wetter water. If that don't do it then big changes coming lol. I think I will go back to my 3 row rad too if that's the case
@BW's Garage if you take the time out it might backfire more I had to put more timing in to get rid of the backfire every once in a while
Hey Bryan I like the fact that it looks like a factory tank on the top, I hope it works out for you it always suck when you have a problem that is hard to cure.
It did drop temp 5° but I am gonna try to get it under 200°. Gonna mess with the timing see if that helps
BW I caught your video a little late but agree with the other guys and think timing might be a problem. You will get it done and thanks for the ride 😊😊
Thats what I am thinking too Paul. Gonna do it during week, only cuz car show today and don't want mess with it as it'd currently running "ok" lol. Plus I can get my buddies to Rev motor while I adjust time during week
Awesome video brother. Thanks for sharing. Keep the content coming. Hope you have an incredible weekend. Much love and RESPECT
Thanks Tim, appreciate it 🙏
Check out Stewart Components water pumps. I used one on my 454 powered '50 Chevy along with a US Radiator "optima - Desert Cooler" copper/brass radiator to keep my car cool in 100+ degree weather using a single 16" pusher fan. Engine temps never get above 190 - 195 degrees and that's including the slow stop and go driving you do in a parade. The Stewart water pumps have higher volume over stock pumps. I've also had good luck with Edelbrock high volume water pumps but the Stewart pump is more budget friendly. LOve your '55. I built one several years ago with a big block in it. That's the car I used the Edelbrock water pump in. Never had an overheating problem with that car either.
I will look at the pumps, thanks. Gonna check timing too.
Hey BW! Man I love hearing your 55 rowing through the gears! You should be very happy with the quality car you've built! I thinkn you'll get the temp figured out and 210 is not really all the hot for a worked over 454! Have a good one Buddy 👍
Your right brother, 210 is ok, shooting for under 200° without sacrifice of power. It's backfiring through carb, so maybe lean, might help both issues if I take a couple degrees out of the timing. Maybe just fatten it a touch too
Hang in there you will definitely get it figured out. I was going to say same thing take a little out of timing it should definitely help. Also see if you can find out why it’s back firing. Thanks for the ride along looked like a cool car show.👍😎✌️
I think that the backfires are fuel related. Gonna try to get additives and non ethanol fuel.
@@bwsgarage sometimes a lean condition will cause backfire
Thanks for the ride. I think your have more success when you back off timing. I would also suggest making sure it’s not to lean. Not everyone agrees with mixer being too lean will cause over heating but I experienced it on a big block Chevelle. Just a thought…
Gonna take a look at the plugs this week when I play with timing, thanks brother 🙏
She's a beast
very awesome brother
Thanks Daniel, it's a blast to drive
Hey BW👋, Thanks for the ride along and and he might have something with timing there. Your misfire and heating up more then you want it too. Just don’t let it get to you. I know you’ll get figured out . Have a great weekend ✌🏻
Having fun trying to figure it out, the only thing I dislike at the moment is the cold case drain plug is in a different location and don't line up with my cut out. Lol
If your engine is running lean, that can make the engine run hotter. If you don't want to spring for a wideband air/fuel ratio gauge kit, then try going 3 or 4 sizes larger on the main jets on the primary side of your Holley, and see if that helps any.
This is good stuff, thanks. When I get a minute I am gonna check timing and possibly take 2 degrees out. Won't that fatten it up a bit? I had the engine on the dyno a while back, the engine shop did just what you suggested. He said it was popping so he rejet the carb till he found the best setup. He also says he put moroso indexing washers with spark plugs cuz the domes of pistons. He had said the domes was to high for the heads selected but made it work with the index washers. I bought this engine built on internet from abandoned build. Had it gone over at my engine shop.
Thanks for trying our radiators out!
I really like it, thanks
Or you could just move to Canada and never worry about overheating at all.
Are you using Wudder Wettah or just pure Garden Hose H2O?
Lol, I couldn't handle the winter months 😅
what is your initial and all in at 2500 set at. Also have you pulled a couple plugs to see how they look? running to lean can cause some heat trouble as well. Just a cple thoughts.
Gonna play with timing this week, I haven't check timing since install. I want say total was around 38? Gonna knock it back to 36 and see what we get
Interesting. Trying to pick a new rad myself right now for my BBC. Might go Griffin. Cool vid!
Turns out the radiator I got from ebay was just as good as the cold case, what made the biggest difference is when I got rid of the aftermarket fans and modified a fan off of a early 2000s Lincoln MKX to fit. Pulls so much more air.
I agree with a couple others about needing to run your thermostat.
I put it back in last night, I also think the slight restriction will help, allowing the liquid a little longer in radiator for heat transfer.
No excuses now with the Howie M👀k clock ! 🤭
😆 🤣 😂
Sorry to give you this news. It's all about flow control and volume of fluid your moving. ( Remember I raced a dirt track circle track car for 12yrs }
we ran them at 3 grand to 7+ grand for as long as 30 minutes on a 80 degree summer night. My water temp never hit 190*.
pulley ratio is just as important as fluid volume. Rad-e ator problems 101.
Will power through and get it down a few more degrees.
I'm going to agree with some of the comments on here BW. Timing will make a difference. Popping through the carb could be a couple of other things. Good luck. 👍
I am thinking its fuel related, but we shall see
BW love the ride along for sure, but popping threw the carb will run me crazy, because it could be several things just figured it out is the problem 😕. But back in early 80s had a 68 Camaro stock 327 , oh boy had 350 bored 60 over he took it out of a Nova said running a little hot for him , so I got it off of him to put in the Camaro, and it ran a little hot had got a 4 cor radiator got a little cooler then try a clutch fan and tem dropped pretty good i luck out. Hope you figure it out them oh Big Blocks run a little hot anyway. Sorry i am little late been in know man land on a Cat Fishing trip . Have a good one Bud ✌️
Thanks Lonnie, I am thinking about trying a mechanical fan next.
I think what this has clearly demonstrated is that the radiator isn't the source of your cooling problem. The next thing I would try is a stronger, larger (if room is available) pair of electric fans, mounted to a fabricated sheet metal shroud that covers and seals against the entire radiator core. When I say a stronger fan, I'm referring to the amps draw. The higher the amp draw, the stronger the motor is, and the fan blades won't slow down when the fan is up against the resistance of a radiator. Don't look at CFM ratings, because they are misleading. Also, buy fans with the widest fan blades that you have room for. Wider blades pull more air than thin blades.
You need to consider the possibility that the hot air is recirculating under the hood back to the front of the radiator! Regardless of the fact you are traveling down the road. Try sealing the front of the radiator to the grill which will force new air into the Rad.
Turns out I had an open vacuum port. Also, I put the 3 pass radiator back in and got a fan off an early 2000 Lincoln MKX and modified it to fit. Runs around 185-190 all the time now. ✌️
Have you had the car on the open road? My Plymouth will flirt with 220 in stop-and-go, never pukes when shut-off, and runs 185 down the highway all day long...and has been working like this for over 20 years. I just don't want you to over-think this if it's what the engineers call "operating as designed!" Retard the timing, make certain she's not too lean (backfiring) when not at operating temperature, then take her sad ass for an extended road test...driving her like you stole her! Also...I'm a big believer in running a thermostat...'just saying! Enjoy! Bro Harry
Sound advice Harry, I haven't puked in tank either, might be the case. I think it may be a hair lean too. Gonna take 2° out of timing this week and take it out. Thanks brother 🙏
Another thing that can help is installing an air dam below the radiator. The air damn causes a low pressure area behind the radiator which causes more air to get sucked through the fins.
All modern cars have air dams below their radiators. With the chin breathing modern cars have do to the styling... the lack of an open grill doesn't flow much. Hence why the air dam to create that low pressure area.
Excellent point
Thermostat and clutch fan!!!!!
Just to state the obvious, the temps will never drop under the thermostat temp regardless. Secondly, the radiator should be sized so it cools without fans at low highway speed, then you can rely on the fans at idle.
❤
✌️
Most of the Chinese 3 rows are .60" or .66" wide tubes vs. the Cold Case's giant 1.25" tubes. The 1.25" tubes really should be combined with a lot of coolant flow to keep the turbulence up through the tubes. (High flow water pump and the water pump running at least as fast as the crank, unless it's a high RPM engine.) -If you don't have a high flow pump the Stewart pumps are about the best you can get for the money, PERIOD.
Cooling efficiency can drop by up to 50% when the coolant flow through the tubes goes from turbulent to laminar flow (laminar at lower coolant flow rates).
I put the 3 row back in just cuz it fit better, I also changed fans and modified a early 2000s mkx Lincoln Fan that was much stronger than the aftermarket fans I had. Found root cause of heating issue, a open vacuum port hidden on back of carburetor. Now it runs 185 -195 all day even in traffic on hottest days
Couple long form videos on it, thanks for info and checking out videos
On my 460 (30 over 454) I am running a Weiand hi volume alum long water pump flex a lite fan with alum blades tallest I could fit in my shroud with 2" fan spacer and 160° Robertshaw hi flow thermostat. My car is a heavy 69 Z/28 (X 77 vin tag) Pro Street car using non ethylene glycol based jegs brand coolant (can't use conventional anti freeze when at drag strip) Never a hot issue - I did put 7 rib serpentine belt system on for she would throw standard v belts off after launch
What temps do you run at on hot day? I am around 215ish. I feel I can get it down around 200 with better tune and better better fan.
@@bwsgarage 180 on street - never > 200 after a hot qtr mile pass at drag strip
@@bwsgarage how can I send you pix ?
@@bwsgarage 4 row OEM radiator
@@bwsgarage No disrespect but change only 1 thing at a time try that first then onto the next
So how did it go once you let it cool off and added that 3/4 gallon of water to it that it was low on
I don’t get it thought you would get it to cool down doing that,,,kinda burns your a$$ if you know what I mean,but I don’t want to give you arm chair advice, I know you will do your research and figure out your next step to get it cooling better ,My fingers are crossed for you Bryan🤞🏻
Gonna work on timing. Take a couple degrees out. I was talking to a young kid and he really impressed me with his knowledge. We're gonna give it a try
Yeah I heard you saying that at the end of video and it makes sense and I can’t wait for the results from you trying it
U need to use themoststat 180 or engine wont cool down
Just put my 180 back in, gonna test it tomorrow, next step is taking a couple degrees out of timing and add some wetter water
I don't believe your cooling system is the problem with the overheating issues. You might want to take it to a tuner and have it looked at.
I plan to take a couple degrees out of the timing
Electric fans are either pusher or puller types ... no disrespect but could be pushers
Did you figure out the overheating? Retarded ignition timing will definitely put more heat into the coolant AND the headers.
If you've got aluminum pulleys, they MIGHT be significantly underdriving the water pump, which won't help, either. (My 79 Corvette came with around a 1.2:1 water pump to pulley ratio; my aluminum pulleys changed that to 1:0.875... I'm trying to find someone to custom make me a 6.2" crank pulley so I can run them at 1:1.
Turned out I had open vacuum port hidden on back of carburetor, plugged it and problem solved. Now it runs 185- 195 all day even on hottest days
two words - Fan Shroud !!! I'll send u a DM or u send me one.
I bought it to help, but it may be making it worse, gonna check timing before I make anymore big moves, it's backfiring through carb till it heats up. So maybe take 2 degree out and fatten the fuel mixture a hair?
U need a bigger radiator like actually size.
Ended up finding open vacuum port, I put an early 2000s lincoln mkx fan on it and mid summer it would stay under 195°.
Take out the thermostat !
I did! Ran test run with no thermostat. Now gonna try wity
@@bwsgarage ,
I see your problem , it's those two small fans and the other 30% percent of the Radiator is blocked with a sheet of metal ,
But it has louvers punched into it ,
Big Deal !
It's still being blocked from air flowing through ,
It looks cool 😎 !
Just doesn't perform cool !
Whujafigurout! Lean? Timing? Inquiring minds wanna know. My 💰's on better fan...I think those li'l 10-12 inchers only flow like 1600-1700cfm...Get a fan out of a '87 Thunderbird or a Mercury Mark XIII...they flow like 3000-4000cfm. There's my 2🪙 anywho....
Vaccum leak, but I did go with a better fan too