You NEED to install an inline fuse where you have that blue power wire bolted to the red to safeguard against fires! Automotive electrical safety 101. And thanks for listening to your viewers!
Sorry for this comment but, im just thinking of you own security, but wtf man?!! You have just done what all the big amateur fail installators have ever done in thier car audio install attempts ever. Self taping screw for ground ? Come on maan ! That instalation would never passe MOT here in sweden because of fire and spark hazard. First thing...That ground, is absolutely not okey, its not even a good grounding point as all the ground of the car now needs go through thin metal and that can cause failures. The best aftermarket grounding point is the strongest point in the cars interior. One by far the best and easiest place to istall a new ground is on to the hole where your rear seats belts attatch to, just brush the contactpoints and install...super easy :) ! That extension is seriously dangerous, it will cause resistance and increased flow of current which leads to heat between the connectors and that will lead to insulation failure, sparks and fire hazard. You have what seems to be more than 15-20metres of 0AWG wire for both negative and possitive applications and you do this. Do it right, grab a new piece of positive wire, run it to the battery and always leave some slack. You can reuse that other shorter cable for a car audio install as it will be enough lenght to run for a amp (for your brothers golf). I really have to give this video a thumb down untill you fix the problem, i enjoy looking at your videos, even thow i havnt learned anything new as i work as a Mechanik and Detailer, Car audio and stance realated installations are my hobby.
I don't know if you noticed his previous wire was CCA wire. I commented on his last video explaining how wrong using that CCA (copper clad aluminum) wire was! and it looks like he went and bought full copper wire to make the extension.. but like you said, he has that whole roll of new wire and so why not redo it! You're right about the ground also. I was almost surprised and excited that he actually was going to listen to commenters and redo the wire with full copper but all he did was use a 2 foot piece to dangerously extend. Oh well, I hope people don't think any of this is okay to do. I also had to thumbs down the video. Don't get me wrong I love his videos but not when he does ghetto stuff.
KosovarMods Don't be sorry, you're absolutely right. I was cringing the whole time watching this. His vehicle's whole electrical is relying on a ground w/ self tapper to sheet metal w/ cheap CCA on top of that. IMO if you're going to relocate primary battery then run 1/0 OFC straight off alt & alt casing/bracket...especially if you're running aftermarket audio. That amp is drawing more current than the amperage that wire is probably even rated for...and that's just the amp, what about the rest of the vehicle's electrical. Dude, this is an absolute FAIL. I could link this video to a bunch of forums and they would literally light this video up in the comments like there was no tomorrow. Dude needs to put a disclaimer on this video.
His youtube-ego is way to big for him to put up a disclaimer, or eaven put up a new video doing it right and telling people how wrong he were from the whole beginning. What i dont like is that maybe some other newbs watching his videos learns how to install or is going to, and does the same misstakes too!
That positive extension is a hazard for shorting. Also where are the fuses or breakers on the positive wire? if you get in an accident you need a way to kill power from that battery and from the alternator.
3:26-That is a BIG NO NO, especially on a positive run of 0/1 wire you are asking for a fire 🔥 if that contacts ANYTHING. You could have put a distribution block right there then ran that little piece to the battery. 2birds with 1stone by creating a safe point to add other wires to and making it all look presentable
Milan your supposed to mount it on the passenger side closest to the rear of the car as possible for even weight transfer. If your battery wire is short just run it to a distribution block and run a ground to the block because it's a uni body car.
should be in a box or vented to the exterior of the car. the emitted fumes are toxic and general aeration of the battery is good for reduced expansion of the cells
I came to this video thinking of learning something that I didn't know because I have learned a lot with your previous videos. I should have never watched this video :/ You should really look into doing it properly because within the first minute or so of watching the first video, I got the idea that you really didn't know what you were doing.
Why would you want the current to flow through the frame? Its not meant to, it has a higher resistance than a copper wire. The battery is always hooked up to the fame, but only sporadic current flows through it, the main current flows through a proper conductor. Just wondering if you have some insight on this topic.
What the? He hasn't changed anything to the electrical system but increase the length of the power cable. Even the ground is essentially the same, hell, it's better than the flimsy 4 gauge the stock system has.
love your vids and have given me some ideas for my beetle but its a big no no for self tapping screws for electrical stuff and splicing 2 wires together is also a no no. should of ran a new wire. ask any good mechanic. nevertheless good vid. also dont see a FIRE EXTINGUISHER in your car(s) dude. would hate for something to happen and all that work down the tubes. theyre only like 40 bucks.
First off you should be installing a multi-fuse anl/mini anl fuse block running to a continuous wire up to the alternator. Electrical tape can come off. You should be using ofc wire. You need a fuse between alt and battery. Also need to upgrade alt ground. You also should have used a closed end terminal and soldered it for ground. I have seen crimps come undone. Ground should have been nut and bolt to chassis. By using multi fuse block you then run wire from amp and alt and have one connection at battery. 24 years as a 12 volt installer. Things you doing are a fire hazard.
now how is ur alternator gonna charge ur battery? if theres no power wire coming from the alternator going to battery, that means every other day you will have to charge the battery ur self, no?
Why not just use the right length positive wire to start with? That ground is not the best ground... Ground it to the frame... you kept talking about screwing the plate to the "frame", sheet metal in the trunk is not the frame...
Please...do NOT relocate like this. First and foremost, your ground connection is lousy. You just grounded your vehicle's whole electrical system to sheet metal w/ a self tapper...with cheap crappy CCA on top of that. That is NOT how it should be done...smh. That's just really reckless advice you're dishing out. The return you're getting from a weak ground like that does not come without repercussions. Atleast ground to frame, grind down to bare metal, tap & bolt but preferably to alt case, which is the genesis of your vehicle's ground and do it with OFC. DO NOT place your vehicle's whole electrical system into the hands of $20 Amazon CCA which is more jacket than wire and sure as hell DO NOT use jumper cables as he suggests.
That extension on a positive wire is a big no no!!
THANK YOU! :O
You NEED to install an inline fuse where you have that blue power wire bolted to the red to safeguard against fires! Automotive electrical safety 101. And thanks for listening to your viewers!
Sorry for this comment but, im just thinking of you own security, but wtf man?!!
You have just done what all the big amateur fail installators have ever done in thier car audio install attempts ever.
Self taping screw for ground ? Come on maan !
That instalation would never passe MOT here in sweden because of fire and spark hazard.
First thing...That ground, is absolutely not okey, its not even a good grounding point as all the ground of the car now needs go through thin metal and that can cause failures.
The best aftermarket grounding point is the strongest point in the cars interior.
One by far the best and easiest place to istall a new ground is on to the hole where your rear seats belts attatch to, just brush the contactpoints and install...super easy :) !
That extension is seriously dangerous, it will cause resistance and increased flow of current which leads to heat between the connectors and that will lead to insulation failure, sparks and fire hazard.
You have what seems to be more than 15-20metres of 0AWG wire for both negative and possitive applications and you do this.
Do it right, grab a new piece of positive wire, run it to the battery and always leave some slack.
You can reuse that other shorter cable for a car audio install as it will be enough lenght to run for a amp (for your brothers golf).
I really have to give this video a thumb down untill you fix the problem, i enjoy looking at your videos, even thow i havnt learned anything new as i work as a Mechanik and Detailer, Car audio and stance realated installations are my hobby.
I don't know if you noticed his previous wire was CCA wire. I commented on his last video explaining how wrong using that CCA (copper clad aluminum) wire was! and it looks like he went and bought full copper wire to make the extension.. but like you said, he has that whole roll of new wire and so why not redo it! You're right about the ground also. I was almost surprised and excited that he actually was going to listen to commenters and redo the wire with full copper but all he did was use a 2 foot piece to dangerously extend. Oh well, I hope people don't think any of this is okay to do. I also had to thumbs down the video. Don't get me wrong I love his videos but not when he does ghetto stuff.
snowboard13gcuz lol I said the same , CCA not good unless it true 1/0 OFC wire or just real copper wire from homedepo or something
the stuff would probably be fine to get by for stereo stuff but a major no go for main power!
KosovarMods Don't be sorry, you're absolutely right. I was cringing the whole time watching this. His vehicle's whole electrical is relying on a ground w/ self tapper to sheet metal w/ cheap CCA on top of that. IMO if you're going to relocate primary battery then run 1/0 OFC straight off alt & alt casing/bracket...especially if you're running aftermarket audio. That amp is drawing more current than the amperage that wire is probably even rated for...and that's just the amp, what about the rest of the vehicle's electrical. Dude, this is an absolute FAIL. I could link this video to a bunch of forums and they would literally light this video up in the comments like there was no tomorrow. Dude needs to put a disclaimer on this video.
His youtube-ego is way to big for him to put up a disclaimer, or eaven put up a new video doing it right and telling people how wrong he were from the whole beginning. What i dont like is that maybe some other newbs watching his videos learns how to install or is going to, and does the same misstakes too!
I've been waiting to see you upload. great video as always
This is a video that's gonna end up on car audio fails on Instagram, biggest car audio fail
its a battery relocation
It will still end up there
plan on installing a fuse on the positive terminal?
great video, I'm a big fan.
How's the NVX sound deadener? I'm looking for some good sound deadener and NVX is priced relatively cheap
Its awesome, works well, and is by far one of the best bang for buck sound deadening options :)
ignore my question I just saw the other video that explains why you moved the battery. LOL!!
That positive extension is a hazard for shorting. Also where are the fuses or breakers on the positive wire? if you get in an accident you need a way to kill power from that battery and from the alternator.
3:26-That is a BIG NO NO, especially on a positive run of 0/1 wire you are asking for a fire 🔥 if that contacts ANYTHING. You could have put a distribution block right there then ran that little piece to the battery. 2birds with 1stone by creating a safe point to add other wires to and making it all look presentable
Milan your supposed to mount it on the passenger side closest to the rear of the car as possible for even weight transfer. If your battery wire is short just run it to a distribution block and run a ground to the block because it's a uni body car.
Hey Milan can you do a video on relocating the battery on the Golf or Mini Cooper ?
10:58 best xD
shared and liked ur video
should be in a box or vented to the exterior of the car. the emitted fumes are toxic and general aeration of the battery is good for reduced expansion of the cells
just wondering why you moved the battery to your trunk?
sandra hudgins maybe he doesn't have enough space for the new battery to fit?
More space for a turbo in the future and better weight distribution.
You Really Like The Color Red
I came to this video thinking of learning something that I didn't know because I have learned a lot with your previous videos. I should have never watched this video :/
You should really look into doing it properly because within the first minute or so of watching the first video, I got the idea that you really didn't know what you were doing.
Why would you want the current to flow through the frame? Its not meant to, it has a higher resistance than a copper wire. The battery is always hooked up to the fame, but only sporadic current flows through it, the main current flows through a proper conductor. Just wondering if you have some insight on this topic.
What the? He hasn't changed anything to the electrical system but increase the length of the power cable. Even the ground is essentially the same, hell, it's better than the flimsy 4 gauge the stock system has.
Where is the negative wire of the battery usually connected to? Is it usually connected directly and only to the chassis?
He hasn't changed the equivalent schematic, but he has changed current routing.
amiguels4 of course it's connected to the chassis.
I know its connected to the chassis, obviously. My question is whether the battery lead is DIRECTLY and ONLY connected to the chassis.
What part of Canada are you from ? like the province and city you live in?
What about the sick dips channel ?
What about it?
love your vids and have given me some ideas for my beetle but its a big no no for self tapping screws for electrical stuff and splicing 2 wires together is also a no no. should of ran a new wire. ask any good mechanic. nevertheless good vid. also dont see a FIRE EXTINGUISHER in your car(s) dude. would hate for something to happen and all that work down the tubes. theyre only like 40 bucks.
First off you should be installing a multi-fuse anl/mini anl fuse block running to a continuous wire up to the alternator. Electrical tape can come off. You should be using ofc wire. You need a fuse between alt and battery. Also need to upgrade alt ground. You also should have used a closed end terminal and soldered it for ground. I have seen crimps come undone. Ground should have been nut and bolt to chassis. By using multi fuse block you then run wire from amp and alt and have one connection at battery. 24 years as a 12 volt installer. Things you doing are a fire hazard.
now how is ur alternator gonna charge ur battery? if theres no power wire coming from the alternator going to battery, that
means every other day you will have to charge the battery ur self, no?
lmao
george pacan not sure if trolling or just stupid...?
no neither
lolololololol
What are your subs?? And sub-box their nice!!! Factory?
I have 2 JL 8W7AE subwoofers in a custom made ported box. The factory 6" sub did nothing for me, so it had to be replaced
Nice! I was planning on getting a 10" sub and wanting to make my own box for it. Thanks for the reply!
Why not just use the right length positive wire to start with? That ground is not the best ground... Ground it to the frame... you kept talking about screwing the plate to the "frame", sheet metal in the trunk is not the frame...
Damn bro you need to fuse that ish! in and out fak
Full length only cowboys
sup
Please...do NOT relocate like this. First and foremost, your ground connection is lousy. You just grounded your vehicle's whole electrical system to sheet metal w/ a self tapper...with cheap crappy CCA on top of that. That is NOT how it should be done...smh. That's just really reckless advice you're dishing out. The return you're getting from a weak ground like that does not come without repercussions. Atleast ground to frame, grind down to bare metal, tap & bolt but preferably to alt case, which is the genesis of your vehicle's ground and do it with OFC. DO NOT place your vehicle's whole electrical system into the hands of $20 Amazon CCA which is more jacket than wire and sure as hell DO NOT use jumper cables as he suggests.
no i am first
Because he was too high
😂 11:00
Chill with the ads it's makes your vids so annoying
first
you look tired
bro you look tired :/
Thats school for ya..