I am too poor to buy any plans but just watching what you have shown here is more than enough to build from. Your ideas are very smart and your presentations demonstrate that intelligence tenfold. As with most extra smart people you seem to get agitated with us less so. Personally I hope you do not let the dumb-asses get you down so I may continue to learn from one of the best if not THE best. It is between the top three, you, Matt and of course Izzy but your presentation abilities give you an edge. I have over 50 years working wood and not a day goes by without some new idea makes me happy all over again.
John, I built your box joint jig earlier this year and I don't think I ever thanked you for coming up with this jig. I use it a lot and always get great box joints.
Thanks, John. I built it had no problems but your tip about cutting them in wider pieces and trimming after was very helpful and allows much better outcome.
My entire shop is in storage and I really miss spending time on creative projects. Hoping to be set-up again in late 2020. This jig is on the top of the list when I'm operational.
Love your videos John - great inspiration. Glad you are "human" as all of us, making mistakes along the road, but learn from it - and we learn from you !!
Ho nice, I wanted to make this jig for my Proxxon saw bench , thank you for having clearly explained the importance of the space of the threads according to the width of the blade.
So cool to hear you mention the shim trick. I was building small boxes a long time ago and the 1/8" ply bottom would not fit in the groove after I applied the finish. I put a piece of tape on the edge of the blade /arbor and it worked perfect! I have never heard anyone else talk about it until you just now. On a 2nd note. I also use a 7-1/4" saw blade for cutting thin miter spline joints. I took my blade to a sharpener and had them regrind it as a flat top grind. It gives me nice a flat bottom now. I only use it for these joints, so it will last a long time.
Forum thread for this jig: www.ibuildit.ca/ibuildit-forum/viewtopic.php?id=153 Plans for this jig: www.ibuildit.ca/Sales/sales-9.html Build article: www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Projects/Jigs/ultimate-box-joint-jig-3.html Setting up and using this jig video: ua-cam.com/video/pIZggtEDmCw/v-deo.html Tips and Accessories video for this jig: ua-cam.com/video/EHQBby_6Ud8/v-deo.html Exclusive content on Patreon: www.patreon.com/user?u=865843&ty=h Plans for sale: www.ibuildit.ca/plans.html My second woodworking channel: ua-cam.com/users/IBuildIt My home reno channel: ua-cam.com/users/IBuildItHome
great to see, that there was so much improvement from the last video. I am fairly impressed with your mechanism, which moves the workpiece. Very well done.
So timely... I built this a while ago, but did not manage to get it working correctly. Just now (yesterday actually when I was trying it again), I realized that my blade probably isn't quite 1/8". Time to experiment more. One other problem I had (still have occasionally) is that the spring doesn't work correctly. I have added an actual (metal) spring and that helps, but I think that, now that I have a drill press, I need to remake some of these components. Thanks, John!
Great and easy to follow demonstration. I really enjoy and benefit from watching your videos. You seem to be calmer recently, it suits you well. Thanks and Happy New Year.
Another beautifully edited and assembled video John. I think when you chuckle about how obvious something you are saying should be to a viewer that a great many experienced guys laugh right with you. Happy new year. Thanks for all the hard work on the videos.
I used clear lacquer on the body sanded smooth to 220 grit, and I've wiped all of the parts with paste wax. The carriage basically shoots the the opposite side.
Shimming the blade for a bit of wobble is a good idea. My stupid dado set cuts just too narrow for 1/8" joints. It works nicely on 3/8" I also find I get a much better result with some backing wood to prevent tearout.
This is cool. It would be really great for people getting into woodworking and making box joints that don't have the skill level to make Matthias' gears.
Brilliant John. Over here, in England, we are on the metric system and our 10mm threaded rod has a thread spacing of 1.5mm. I can never find a blade that is exactly 1.5 or 3.0mm but with your 'wobble' saw method I am sure it will cure the problem. Regards.
Bijbeunertje CAE Trouble is none of my blades, of which I have several, are an integer division of a metric threaded rod (or the other way around). But I use Matthius Wandel's jig and can overcome the problem because one can use fractions of a turn. Regards.
John dont let the minority upset you, as I am sure the majority get you. I consider myself average, and I have no problem understanding anything you do. We, the ones you are targeting, get you, thats all that matters man, great video. !!
Haha I always look at mine and think 'Typewriter' as well. The advancement lever also looks like a gentleman's privates. I call that part the 'John Holmes' advancer
John, could you comments on the merits of your threaded rod with coupler vs, say rotating a threaded shaft with a nut by some some number of rotations? :) That said, it does seem that the rotating shaft would allow for cutting box joints of any size down to the kerf of the blade depending on need.
Hey John, thanks for the update on this project. I was looking at your plans site a while back and decideing whether to build one or not and now that I have a full kerf FT blade, I think I will! I noticed your washable filter off to the side in this video, could you do an update on your air filter? how it performed and if you'd make any changes? I recently bought an 18" fan and some 20x20 filters to make something similar and be interested to see how yours has performed. Thanks
I built your jig this fall and i really like it. I consider your design to be the best of all that i have seen. When i first tried it i did have some of the problems you describe but found the 2 biggest were misalignment of my trunnions and horrible runout on some of my blades which gave me slots at around 0.134" which are too sloppy. I rectified the misalignment and have been using the 1/8" blade from my dado set. I am currently shopping for a good quality (low runout) flat top 1/8" kerf blade, but all of the big box stores seem to only carry the thin kerf units these days. I haven't been able to stomach the C$170 Forrest blade at lee valley yet.. any recommendations on a flat top 1/8" blade?
Hi John. Can you explain when you would use your Ultimate jig, and when you would use your Advanced jig. I thought that when you designed the Ultimate jig, it would supersede all others, but I guess that might not be the case.
+John Heisz Thanks John. Now that I've found a source for the threaded rod, I'm ready for the Ultimate. Thanks for the link to the forum. I'll check that out.
This is awesome John! Really brilliant actually. An odd question came to mind though. Since the threaded rod has a taper to the threading, can the taper throw off the starting point of the box joint?
Awesome jig John. I built mine a few months ago. Right now I'm using a 6" blade from my dado stack as it's 1/8" but it doesn't have a flat top. I'm having a problem finding a blade that's 1/8" with a flat top that doesn't cost over $100. Any idea where to get one? I'm in Hamilton. Are there any stores in the GTA?
The blade has one chipped tooth that might have come from doing that, but no way to know for certain. Definitely not something that I would recommend doing when you are cutting through that much material.
"The blade I am using is flat on the top" Is this an aluminium cutting blade? - so far that is the only type I can find that have a flat grind tooth - trouble is they are 3-4 times the price of a wood blade. If there are others I may have to import them from the US or elsewhere - any one have any links?
John Heisz Thanks John but those sort of places have gone the way of the Dodo here in Oz - and I am total crap at sharpening anything so it's a continual problem for me in just sharpening them normally (I really should practice some more with your technique shown previously). I will probably have to import some blades anyway as I invested in a DS745 and it has a 5/8" arbor - needless to say all our 10 inch blades are 30mm or 25 mm - therefore I would need to use rings - I hate using them. Always something.
Maybe if you added a more complex form of fractional calculation, like gears or something it would be easier to understand. I find though if it gets stiff over time, that means the vaseline is working. The problem you've run in to is you've gone to the point of failure. Not sure what sort of marathon you're running up there in Canada, but give the filly a break, she's tuckered out!
As Ron White put it, and I can't say it any better myself...."You Can't Fix Stupid". Sorry, but I know you are frustrated with the stupid comments, and you can't say what I just did without costing you some Subs or $$....so I said it for you. I know you care, but man, some people are just so lazy and stupid that they don't deserve a reply. Let it go. You have spent a lot of your time venting about these viewers, and that tells us all that it's because you really do care...but seriously, 99.999% of us get it. Thanks for what you bring to the woodworking hobby/craft....I have been with you on all channels since day 1. I have bought a couple of your fool proof plans. I know that it's NOT you, and that you spend a lot of time making sure that your plans are accurate. I hate that you have to spend so much time discussing the things that you do in the beginning of this video!!! Hate it. Ok, I am done now, thanks.
My country America used to teach wood working in high school. Now it is very rare to learn any building skills in high school. We now have generations of citizens we can't build or fix household goods. Luckily Community colleges still offer metal/wood/plastic working skills.
Pay Way if people like john and matthias live in my country, the government would love to consider a special vocational programme led by them. Especially when they are world youtube stars. The only problem is wood in my country are low grade, only have expensive ones like 'kayu cengal, kayu meranti' (i dont know what you call them in english. Our pallet wood also normally low quality, i always envy those pallets that come from america and such to our country. Normally they are made of pine wood.. which is very nice, white and good looking.
I don't think you're alone. Kids here get taught so much more than my generation did, and yet, as you point out, they don't have the basic foundation skills of basic home maintenance. My basic fabrication skills give me a near god like status at work!
DraGma having the blade run straight is always optimal, causing blade wobble with the shim was intended for anyone whose joints were too tight. I'd like to laugh, but I don't get your point.
I did answer, in the video. I start with wider stock, then cut them to width after the box joints are cut. Much easier to make the line up precisely that way.
John Heisz could you make a video showing how you do this? Or describe it better? Are you assembling the box and gluing and then cutting it on the table saw or cutting them individually? If so how?
It is now time to express all measurements in metric only as it is federal government policy, failure to follow rules will result in imprisonment. Yours Sincerely Justin Trudeau PM at large.
I am too poor to buy any plans but just watching what you have shown here is more than enough to build from. Your ideas are very smart and your presentations demonstrate that intelligence tenfold. As with most extra smart people you seem to get agitated with us less so. Personally I hope you do not let the dumb-asses get you down so I may continue to learn from one of the best if not THE best. It is between the top three, you, Matt and of course Izzy but your presentation abilities give you an edge. I have over 50 years working wood and not a day goes by without some new idea makes me happy all over again.
John, I built your box joint jig earlier this year and I don't think I ever thanked you for coming up with this jig. I use it a lot and always get great box joints.
Thanks, John. I built it had no problems but your tip about cutting them in wider pieces and trimming after was very helpful and allows much better outcome.
My entire shop is in storage and I really miss spending time on creative projects. Hoping to be set-up again in late 2020. This jig is on the top of the list when I'm operational.
Love your videos John - great inspiration. Glad you are "human" as all of us, making mistakes along the road, but learn from it - and we learn from you !!
Ho nice, I wanted to make this jig for my Proxxon saw bench , thank you for having clearly explained the
importance of the space of the threads according to the width of the blade.
So cool to hear you mention the shim trick. I was building small boxes a long time ago and the 1/8" ply bottom would not fit in the groove after I applied the finish. I put a piece of tape on the edge of the blade /arbor and it worked perfect! I have never heard anyone else talk about it until you just now.
On a 2nd note. I also use a 7-1/4" saw blade for cutting thin miter spline joints. I took my blade to a sharpener and had them regrind it as a flat top grind. It gives me nice a flat bottom now. I only use it for these joints, so it will last a long time.
Forum thread for this jig: www.ibuildit.ca/ibuildit-forum/viewtopic.php?id=153
Plans for this jig: www.ibuildit.ca/Sales/sales-9.html
Build article:
www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Projects/Jigs/ultimate-box-joint-jig-3.html
Setting up and using this jig video:
ua-cam.com/video/pIZggtEDmCw/v-deo.html
Tips and Accessories video for this jig:
ua-cam.com/video/EHQBby_6Ud8/v-deo.html
Exclusive content on Patreon:
www.patreon.com/user?u=865843&ty=h
Plans for sale: www.ibuildit.ca/plans.html
My second woodworking channel:
ua-cam.com/users/IBuildIt
My home reno channel:
ua-cam.com/users/IBuildItHome
John Heisz Only 9000 till 500,000! Thats a big milestone!
John Heisz tag
The price is?
great to see, that there was so much improvement from the last video. I am fairly impressed with your mechanism, which moves the workpiece. Very well done.
Good video with great timing. I am completing the build of the jig today. Great instructions for the jig build.
I was amazed at how much of a difference a shim with one sheet of paper made. Thanks for sharing, and Happy New Year.
Ya.... a few thousand of an inch can make a big difference at the tip of the blade...good info..love this channel
So timely... I built this a while ago, but did not manage to get it working correctly. Just now (yesterday actually when I was trying it again), I realized that my blade probably isn't quite 1/8". Time to experiment more. One other problem I had (still have occasionally) is that the spring doesn't work correctly. I have added an actual (metal) spring and that helps, but I think that, now that I have a drill press, I need to remake some of these components. Thanks, John!
Great and easy to follow demonstration. I really enjoy and benefit from watching your videos. You seem to be calmer recently, it suits you well. Thanks and Happy New Year.
Another beautifully edited and assembled video John. I think when you chuckle about how obvious something you are saying should be to a viewer that a great many experienced guys laugh right with you. Happy new year. Thanks for all the hard work on the videos.
Very well put together. Keep up the excellent work John.
I used clear lacquer on the body sanded smooth to 220 grit, and I've wiped all of the parts with paste wax. The carriage basically shoots the the opposite side.
Shimming the blade for a bit of wobble is a good idea.
My stupid dado set cuts just too narrow for 1/8" joints. It works nicely on 3/8"
I also find I get a much better result with some backing wood to prevent tearout.
This is cool. It would be really great for people getting into woodworking and making box joints that don't have the skill level to make Matthias' gears.
This is brilliant! Can't wait to try building this.
Good explanation, bought your plans and i´m building mine now, can´t wait to use it.
Amazing engineering, one day I hope I can also make one. Thanks John 🍀
Very informative. Thanks John.
Ya I love his explanations
Thanks! Very nice music at the end! :)
Ya taught the same good choice of music....
Brilliant John. Over here, in England, we are on the metric system and our 10mm threaded rod has a thread spacing of 1.5mm. I can never find a blade that is exactly 1.5 or 3.0mm but with your 'wobble' saw method I am sure it will cure the problem. Regards.
Ron Cooper you could also take a bigger threaded rod
Bijbeunertje CAE Trouble is none of my blades, of which I have several, are an integer division of a metric threaded rod (or the other way around). But I use Matthius Wandel's jig and can overcome the problem because one can use fractions of a turn. Regards.
You can also get around the problem by making a custom division plate to replace the threaded rod, as shown in the build article.
John Heisz Thank you. Regards.
John dont let the minority upset you, as I am sure the majority get you. I consider myself average, and I have no problem understanding anything you do. We, the ones you are targeting, get you, thats all that matters man, great video. !!
! love my jig! I call it the type writer.
Haha I always look at mine and think 'Typewriter' as well. The advancement lever also looks like a gentleman's privates. I call that part the 'John Holmes' advancer
Good stuff. I will never build this jig but I love seeing how it works. (Never say 'never'??)
An outstanding device!!!
This is a really cool tool! Great job!
John, could you comments on the merits of your threaded rod with coupler vs, say rotating a threaded shaft with a nut by some some number of rotations? :)
That said, it does seem that the rotating shaft would allow for cutting box joints of any size down to the kerf of the blade depending on need.
Great job !!! 👏🏻👏🏻🤙🏻
If I use a dado for a 1/4" cut, then I just advance the thread four times, correct? What if I want a 3/4 finger, just advance 12 times, correct?
Hey John, thanks for the update on this project. I was looking at your plans site a while back and decideing whether to build one or not and now that I have a full kerf FT blade, I think I will!
I noticed your washable filter off to the side in this video, could you do an update on your air filter? how it performed and if you'd make any changes? I recently bought an 18" fan and some 20x20 filters to make something similar and be interested to see how yours has performed.
Thanks
John, great videos. Can you tell us what brand and model of blade(s) you are using on your box joint jig?
John, is there a reason you use Vaseline instead of wax to lube the slide? I just purchased the plans and am anxious to get at it. Thanks
I built your jig this fall and i really like it. I consider your design to be the best of all that i have seen. When i first tried it i did have some of the problems you describe but found the 2 biggest were misalignment of my trunnions and horrible runout on some of my blades which gave me slots at around 0.134" which are too sloppy. I rectified the misalignment and have been using the 1/8" blade from my dado set. I am currently shopping for a good quality (low runout) flat top 1/8" kerf blade, but all of the big box stores seem to only carry the thin kerf units these days. I haven't been able to stomach the C$170 Forrest blade at lee valley yet.. any recommendations on a flat top 1/8" blade?
Hi John. Can you explain when you would use your Ultimate jig, and when you would use your Advanced jig. I thought that when you designed the Ultimate jig, it would supersede all others, but I guess that might not be the case.
The Ultimate is much bigger. Not everyone needs a jig with that much capacity.
+John Heisz Thanks John. Now that I've found a source for the threaded rod, I'm ready for the Ultimate. Thanks for the link to the forum. I'll check that out.
Wonderfully engineered John. No green paint?....lol.
I save the green paint for the lawn care equipment :D
This is awesome John! Really brilliant actually. An odd question came to mind though. Since the threaded rod has a taper to the threading, can the taper throw off the starting point of the box joint?
Hi John I have your plans just getting the parts together but i can't get the 1" rod any ideas?
Not built one John But well explained how it works
So if it gets hard you rub vaselin on it? I was thinking you only do that when it gets soft :)
question did you move because if im not mistaken you built a massive shop, what happened???
I have been looking for a blade like you are using. I can't find one that cuts a flat bottom. Can you give me a maker and model number please?
good job !!!
6:58 alien wood in his hands!
Awesome jig John. I built mine a few months ago. Right now I'm using a 6" blade from my dado stack as it's 1/8" but it doesn't have a flat top. I'm having a problem finding a blade that's 1/8" with a flat top that doesn't cost over $100. Any idea where to get one? I'm in Hamilton. Are there any stores in the GTA?
A good option is to have a regular one ground flat at a blade sharpening place.
be quicker if you cut on the pull stroke too... ;-)
(actually I have no idea if that is bad for the saw or not...)
The blade has one chipped tooth that might have come from doing that, but no way to know for certain. Definitely not something that I would recommend doing when you are cutting through that much material.
"The blade I am using is flat on the top"
Is this an aluminium cutting blade? - so far that is the only type I can find that have a flat grind tooth - trouble is they are 3-4 times the price of a wood blade.
If there are others I may have to import them from the US or elsewhere - any one have any links?
You can get a normal one ground flat at any place that sharpens carbide blades.
John Heisz
Thanks John but those sort of places have gone the way of the Dodo here in Oz - and I am total crap at sharpening anything so it's a continual problem for me in just sharpening them normally (I really should practice some more with your technique shown previously).
I will probably have to import some blades anyway as I invested in a DS745 and it has a 5/8" arbor - needless to say all our 10 inch blades are 30mm or 25 mm - therefore I would need to use rings - I hate using them.
Always something.
what if i used white lithium grease instead of Vaseline?
Maybe if you added a more complex form of fractional calculation, like gears or something it would be easier to understand. I find though if it gets stiff over time, that means the vaseline is working. The problem you've run in to is you've gone to the point of failure. Not sure what sort of marathon you're running up there in Canada, but give the filly a break, she's tuckered out!
As Ron White put it, and I can't say it any better myself...."You Can't Fix Stupid". Sorry, but I know you are frustrated with the stupid comments, and you can't say what I just did without costing you some Subs or $$....so I said it for you. I know you care, but man, some people are just so lazy and stupid that they don't deserve a reply. Let it go. You have spent a lot of your time venting about these viewers, and that tells us all that it's because you really do care...but seriously, 99.999% of us get it. Thanks for what you bring to the woodworking hobby/craft....I have been with you on all channels since day 1. I have bought a couple of your fool proof plans. I know that it's NOT you, and that you spend a lot of time making sure that your plans are accurate. I hate that you have to spend so much time discussing the things that you do in the beginning of this video!!! Hate it. Ok, I am done now, thanks.
Mark Price well said
my country should teach this in school
they all should. at-least the basics
My country America used to teach wood working in high school. Now it is very rare to learn any building skills in high school. We now have generations of citizens we can't build or fix household goods.
Luckily Community colleges still offer metal/wood/plastic working skills.
Pay Way if people like john and matthias live in my country, the government would love to consider a special vocational programme led by them. Especially when they are world youtube stars. The only problem is wood in my country are low grade, only have expensive ones like 'kayu cengal, kayu meranti' (i dont know what you call them in english. Our pallet wood also normally low quality, i always envy those pallets that come from america and such to our country. Normally they are made of pine wood.. which is very nice, white and good looking.
I don't think you're alone. Kids here get taught so much more than my generation did, and yet, as you point out, they don't have the basic foundation skills of basic home maintenance. My basic fabrication skills give me a near god like status at work!
First you gotta make sure you have the blade running true. Then make it wobble if the cut isn't good. Yeah I get the idea and also the irony.
DraGma having the blade run straight is always optimal, causing blade wobble with the shim was intended for anyone whose joints were too tight. I'd like to laugh, but I don't get your point.
You don't say?
Don't you have to offset one of the boards. Doesn't look even at top and bottom of your test pieces.
I did answer, in the video.
I start with wider stock, then cut them to width after the box joints are cut. Much easier to make the line up precisely that way.
John Heisz could you make a video showing how you do this? Or describe it better? Are you assembling the box and gluing and then cutting it on the table saw or cutting them individually? If so how?
It is now time to express all measurements in metric only as it is federal government policy, failure to follow rules will result in imprisonment. Yours Sincerely Justin Trudeau PM at large.
1st dislike LOL XD...
JK YOUR VIDEOS ARE AWESOME :D