Elin! Excellent work. I install all my windshields off the car and I pound every one of them. Never had any issues. I'll tap the trim next time...it always looked too fragile, so you taught me something! Work on my tr6s ground to a halt after I fell and broke my back/hip/pelvis end of January. Fell off a ladder only 5 feet. Could have been so much worse, I was up 16 feet on machinery. Simply missed a rung on the way down. I hope to video some progress on my stuff soon.
I installed the windshield and gasket on my 4A a few weeks ago and there were a LOT of swear words. That vinyl wrap on the frame adds to the aggravation. I used lots of soap and a small "dead blow" hammer to install the beading. Well done Elin.
All that banging! First with the heel of your palm, then with the rubber mallet had me cringing. Obviously not your first windshield install. Most impressive, Elin.
I kept waiting for the windshield to crack with all that pounding, but you made it look easy. As for the trim clips, Triumph had them at the center, top and bottom, making the trim finisher into two halves, left and right. If the windshield ever got replaced in its life, there could be one or two, and in either top or bottom of the gasket. As it is plastic trim in a rubber channel, there are no moisture concerns to worry about.
That looks as difficult as a '56 VW beetle front windscreen Elin .... I think you demonstrated perfectly the point that its not what you hit its how you hit it ... The Old Girl is looking damn good ...
I thought that wire was giving more trouble but looks like it worked in a pinch. I like the cord better as it compresses a little in the channel and gives just enough room for the seal to fit without fighting it. I had a friend help me on my 69 bronco...it's just flat glass but he was cringing too when I was slapping it with the palm of my hand. Flat glass is easier to bust if you don't do it right...I guess it is a touch thing...I have done a few in the past.
That was my first time with a wire too, but to be honest I think it is easier as there isn't so much friction, especially at the corners. The cord literally tears the rubber sometimes.
Something I shared with Tush and where the description of the TR6 being the 'Blokiest Bloke Car' came from. Some old fashioned and non-PC humour from a long time ago. Enjoy: ua-cam.com/video/cBVMSHYDYfw/v-deo.html
I install the windshield but that las part is too loose and is the first time that happens to me and i don't know what to do. I think putting crazy glue to halt it in place.
1. Use a trestle, not a table, to mount rubber onto glass - reduce scratch risk, ease of fitment 2. Use a thicker cord, nylon type - better pull through, less chance of slip 3. Overlap chord by 2-3 inches - makes start off easier. 4. Smear the inner rubber between rubber and body with neat washing up liquid - make fitting easier and reduces re - lubrication. n.b. if your're fitting a glass in a soft top. If you can, close the roof - support the frame and reduce it flexing as you fit the screen. 5. If your doing this on your own make the start point near to one side not the centre - so you can hold the glass on the outside while pulling the rubber chord from the inside. 6. Do not let the screen" ride up" as your pulling the bottom in 7. Fit symmetrically - do the same to both sides as you fit - will keep the glass centred 8. Never, Never!! - hit the glass with ball of your hand. Use the whole of your hand to spread the impact point, more of slapping action . Wear a clean leather glove to increase friction. 9. Never, Never!! - hit the glass in front of the chord, always behind. You were very lucky not to break the glass and hit at an angle towards the centre of the glass - helps centering and reduces risk of breakage. 10. Always pull the chord towards the centre of the glass - reduce risk of ripping the new rubber 11. Once you have fitted the glass - seal it - this is not a wet seal rubber i.e. no drainage at bottom of frame - use a proper windscreen sealant - NOT SILICONE!! and NOT POLYURETHANE - I use Arbomast autograde if you can get it. 12. Fit locking trim - that was ok, but that insertion tool you tried to use is for a different type of trim. Hope this helps for a future job.
Thank you for taking the time and replying in such a detail. I appreciate it! I Agree with most of it and some of it I actually always do (including in this video), but thanks for mentioning it. Like always centering the glass and not letting it lift up, trying to work symmetrically both sides etc. Some of it I agree with, but I think it is a bit of an overkill, like using a trestle (I would if I had one, but since I do that once or twice a year a table with some soft cover does the job). Even using a glove and not hitting the glass with the ball of my hand I find an overkill too. Glass is actually much sturdier and flexible than what people believe. I never ever broke a glass while installing it. I broke one while taking it off and trying to save the gasket as someone insisted they wanted me to. But I never broke one while installing it. And my first installation was when I was 18. Sealant is a good thing, but not using sealant is not a mistake. The rubber gasket is a GASKET for a reason. It is sealing on it's own if installed properly. Sealant would prevent water from going between the gasket and the glass, but I do not see a problem with that unless the car is used in the winter, but that is not the case with the cars subject of my videos. And some of your advise I disagree with, like using a thicker cord. I used to use a thicker nylon rope and once I switched to thinner wire I realized how much easier it is. The gasket needs to lift and flex much less to let the wire out and as long as enough lubricant is used it slips out with ease. The wire reduces the risk of ripping the gasket a lot. I also do not overlap the cord and I don't pay much attention to the bottom in general, because many times I am able to just slip the whole entire bottom end in without even using the cord since the other 3 sides are still out. So I need cord in the slot only a few inches on each side of the bottom. Again, thank you for the advise. Like I said I never claimed to be an expert and never claimed my way is the only way so I am always happy to learn something new and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
The finisher and joint should be at the top of the windshield frame Elin. Water can pool at the bottom and seep in through the joint where you put it. Always enjoy your videos, this is a minor thing, but thought you’d like to know.
Thanks, David, but I have mixed feelings about the joint and finisher. The drawing in the Moss website shows it at the bottom, the Bentley manual shows it at the bottom too and the only different drawing I've seen is the one in the Haynes manual, which shows it top and bottom i.e. the trim is split into two halves. So I am not going to worry about it too much :)
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Putting in the finisher in the windshield gasket was brilliant, using a rubber mallet. So simple.
Elin! Excellent work. I install all my windshields off the car and I pound every one of them. Never had any issues. I'll tap the trim next time...it always looked too fragile, so you taught me something!
Work on my tr6s ground to a halt after I fell and broke my back/hip/pelvis end of January. Fell off a ladder only 5 feet. Could have been so much worse, I was up 16 feet on machinery. Simply missed a rung on the way down. I hope to video some progress on my stuff soon.
It is great you feel better now. I hope to see a video from you soon!
I installed the windshield and gasket on my 4A a few weeks ago and there were a LOT of swear words.
That vinyl wrap on the frame adds to the aggravation. I used lots of soap and a small "dead blow" hammer
to install the beading.
Well done Elin.
:) Yeah, the vinyl wrap is actually the hardest part. You did a Good job if you didn't shatter the glass :)
Looking great Elin, well done. Kind regards, Richard.
Thanks Richard
All that banging! First with the heel of your palm, then with the rubber mallet had me cringing. Obviously not your first windshield install. Most impressive, Elin.
Oh yeah, not the first one. It is funny I broke one once, but it was when I was taking it out, not when installing it. So now I just cut the rubber...
Great job on the windscreen brother Elin. My Mary Ann helped me on the last one I installed.
Good thing you have a helper. :)
Excellent video.
I kept waiting for the windshield to crack with all that pounding, but you made it look easy.
As for the trim clips, Triumph had them at the center, top and bottom, making the trim finisher into two halves, left and right. If the windshield ever got replaced in its life, there could be one or two, and in either top or bottom of the gasket. As it is plastic trim in a rubber channel, there are no moisture concerns to worry about.
Yeah, I checked some different manuals and web sites. The had the finisher either at the bottom or top and bottom like you said.
you are a braver man than I, bashing the trim in with a rubber mallet haha
LOL
Yep Elin... I was waiting for the crack to appear lol!! Good work and I have learned something else today.
Thanks LOL
You made that look friggin easy thank god I never had to replace mine.
The trick is the lubricant :) Always
That looks as difficult as a '56 VW beetle front windscreen Elin .... I think you demonstrated perfectly the point that its not what you hit its how you hit it ... The Old Girl is looking damn good ...
I've done many windscreens and shattered only one. Not when installing it, but when removing it... LOL
I thought that wire was giving more trouble but looks like it worked in a pinch. I like the cord better as it compresses a little in the channel and gives just enough room for the seal to fit without fighting it. I had a friend help me on my 69 bronco...it's just flat glass but he was cringing too when I was slapping it with the palm of my hand. Flat glass is easier to bust if you don't do it right...I guess it is a touch thing...I have done a few in the past.
That was my first time with a wire too, but to be honest I think it is easier as there isn't so much friction, especially at the corners. The cord literally tears the rubber sometimes.
how much easier is using cord instead? I wondered if that coated wire might have worked better. great vid
you are clever, well done
Something I shared with Tush and where the description of the TR6 being the 'Blokiest Bloke Car' came from. Some old fashioned and non-PC humour from a long time ago. Enjoy:
ua-cam.com/video/cBVMSHYDYfw/v-deo.html
LOL, thanks, I've seen that before. I always wondered how these cars were so poorly designed for the normal weather conditions in England
I install the windshield but that las part is too loose and is the first time that happens to me and i don't know what to do. I think putting crazy glue to halt it in place.
Definite room for improvement on your technique.
Yep, there is always room for improvement. I am happy to learn something new! Any advise?
1. Use a trestle, not a table, to mount rubber onto glass - reduce scratch risk, ease of fitment
2. Use a thicker cord, nylon type - better pull through, less chance of slip
3. Overlap chord by 2-3 inches - makes start off easier.
4. Smear the inner rubber between rubber and body with neat washing up liquid - make fitting easier and reduces re - lubrication.
n.b. if your're fitting a glass in a soft top. If you can, close the roof - support the frame and reduce it flexing as you fit the screen.
5. If your doing this on your own make the start point near to one side not the centre - so you can hold the glass on the outside while pulling the rubber chord from the inside.
6. Do not let the screen" ride up" as your pulling the bottom in
7. Fit symmetrically - do the same to both sides as you fit - will keep the glass centred
8. Never, Never!! - hit the glass with ball of your hand. Use the whole of your hand to spread the impact point, more of slapping action . Wear a clean leather glove to increase friction.
9. Never, Never!! - hit the glass in front of the chord, always behind. You were very lucky not to break the glass and hit at an angle towards the centre of the glass - helps centering and reduces risk of breakage.
10. Always pull the chord towards the centre of the glass - reduce risk of ripping the new rubber
11. Once you have fitted the glass - seal it - this is not a wet seal rubber i.e. no drainage at bottom of frame - use a proper windscreen sealant - NOT SILICONE!! and NOT POLYURETHANE - I use Arbomast autograde if you can get it.
12. Fit locking trim - that was ok, but that insertion tool you tried to use is for a different type of trim.
Hope this helps for a future job.
Thank you for taking the time and replying in such a detail. I appreciate it!
I Agree with most of it and some of it I actually always do (including in this video), but thanks for mentioning it. Like always centering the glass and not letting it lift up, trying to work symmetrically both sides etc.
Some of it I agree with, but I think it is a bit of an overkill, like using a trestle (I would if I had one, but since I do that once or twice a year a table with some soft cover does the job). Even using a glove and not hitting the glass with the ball of my hand I find an overkill too. Glass is actually much sturdier and flexible than what people believe. I never ever broke a glass while installing it. I broke one while taking it off and trying to save the gasket as someone insisted they wanted me to. But I never broke one while installing it. And my first installation was when I was 18. Sealant is a good thing, but not using sealant is not a mistake. The rubber gasket is a GASKET for a reason. It is sealing on it's own if installed properly. Sealant would prevent water from going between the gasket and the glass, but I do not see a problem with that unless the car is used in the winter, but that is not the case with the cars subject of my videos.
And some of your advise I disagree with, like using a thicker cord. I used to use a thicker nylon rope and once I switched to thinner wire I realized how much easier it is. The gasket needs to lift and flex much less to let the wire out and as long as enough lubricant is used it slips out with ease. The wire reduces the risk of ripping the gasket a lot. I also do not overlap the cord and I don't pay much attention to the bottom in general, because many times I am able to just slip the whole entire bottom end in without even using the cord since the other 3 sides are still out. So I need cord in the slot only a few inches on each side of the bottom.
Again, thank you for the advise. Like I said I never claimed to be an expert and never claimed my way is the only way so I am always happy to learn something new and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
I'm retired now. I fitted windscreens like this, for forty years. It's an old man's advice take it or leave it.
You need a windshield ?
You're right. I ride a bike so I am used to not having a windshield. LOL
The finisher and joint should be at the top of the windshield frame Elin. Water can pool at the bottom and seep in through the joint where you put it. Always enjoy your videos, this is a minor thing, but thought you’d like to know.
Thanks, David, but I have mixed feelings about the joint and finisher. The drawing in the Moss website shows it at the bottom, the Bentley manual shows it at the bottom too and the only different drawing I've seen is the one in the Haynes manual, which shows it top and bottom i.e. the trim is split into two halves. So I am not going to worry about it too much :)
Mines at the bottom also, but my 70's BMW had it top and bottom.
I was just waiting for a swear word...
The magic of video editing LOL
First!
Then again...
I broke my windshield pushing it downwards