Thanks for the video, very useful. Would you though know how to change the carbon brushes in the actuator motor? As I've just needed to take the actuator apart for greasing etc. I thought I would take a look at the carbon brushes, and they did cause a bit of a problem once, so I'd like to replace, but having trouble getting to them. Any more info would be much appreciated.
Hello, I would like to ask for your opinion: I tried this test on 452 clutch actuator and when i connect 12V to the pins, it extend, when i replace the battery polarity, it will retract but when i disconnect the battery, it will extend again itself (without voltage). Is this wrong? And also only after few tests, its very very hot (you cant hold your hand on the motor housing). Thanks for your help,
The unit should not get hot, unless repeated extensions, you could try and grease inside the unit, they are prone to failure. The test only confirms if the unit is working IE extending and retracting. The unit will heat up if the mechanism is starting to seize.
@@davidbosworth.3395 @evilutionltd Thanks, i bought new Sasch actuator and tried to relearn drag point and clutch pulsing and it works, however im still not able to finish Clutch disengage/engage point calibration, i have still error in my diagnostic APP. I would like to ask - its normal that actuator make small movement (maybe 3mm) every 3 seconds on the Neutral with Engine started? When ignition ON, engine OFF, actuator is not moving but with engine ON, actuator moves few milimeters (3mm to the clutch, and back from clutch). It looks like its some control signal for transmission system? Or its issue because im not able to finish clutch engage/disengage calibration via diagnostic? I ordered new clutch actuator connector with cable harness so i will try to resolder it, maybe it will help. Thanks!
That electric motor works very little and benefits from air flow cooling. On the Smart 450, the clutch actuator is maintained periodically (usually in the fall). When did you last have it maintained?
i was getting sporadic times when it wouldn't go into gear. i took it off, mine has also the rivets, so put grease inside. put it back in. now i saw where the marks were when it came out, and and i used a reverse clamp to push it so it would line up... did you have to do that also or just put it in, and put the screws back in? also the plastic was really brittle and the tabs snapped of... and like a dummy i didn't mark which way it went in - i may have put it in backwards. also saw a video where a guy had software so the car would 'relearn' the clutch?? if 1 and 6 are the power, what are the colour of the wires going IN to those please?
You don't need to worry about pulling the rod in or out,using a 12v battery put 1 pos wire on number 1 and one neg wire on number six will operate the lever, just change around so so swap Ng to positive and visa versa One will push lever out the other will pull it back in don't force the lever using clamps, David
Usually when you go to the actuator, you have to relearn the clutch with MBStar. Sometimes, if you mark the actuator position before removing it, you may not need soft adjustment. Other times, you need soft adjustment periodically. If the car starts smoothly (without jerking) it's ok. If there are big jerks and jerks when starting, then soft adjustment must also be done. The colors depend on the model, anyway you can't do anything by accessing the ECU from there but you can eventually damage the ECU.
Check to waste time ... The actuator also has 2 position sensors inside. If a sensor does not work 100% there are problems with jerks and other 'joys'. If that sensor does not work at all it displays 3 lines and the rest is silence. If the actuator position is out of adjustment then it jerks and in time it perforates the actuation lever. After it is drilled it gives 3 lines. Sensors are encapsulated inside the electric motor and transmit to the engine computer (MEG for gasoline) the position of the actuator rod to be able to actuate the gear change servomotor. So the actuator works in vain, it is necessary for the ECU to know the position of the rod.
Great video, well explained and good visual, thank you sir!
Thanks for the video, very useful. Would you though know how to change the carbon brushes in the actuator motor? As I've just needed to take the actuator apart for greasing etc. I thought I would take a look at the carbon brushes, and they did cause a bit of a problem once, so I'd like to replace, but having trouble getting to them. Any more info would be much appreciated.
I'm sorry I can't help, David
@@davidbosworth.3395 Oh dear, thank you for your reply.
Hello, I would like to ask for your opinion:
I tried this test on 452 clutch actuator and when i connect 12V to the pins, it extend, when i replace the battery polarity, it will retract but when i disconnect the battery, it will extend again itself (without voltage). Is this wrong?
And also only after few tests, its very very hot (you cant hold your hand on the motor housing).
Thanks for your help,
The unit should not get hot, unless repeated extensions, you could try and grease inside the unit, they are prone to failure.
The test only confirms if the unit is working IE extending and retracting.
The unit will heat up if the mechanism is starting to seize.
@@davidbosworth.3395 @evilutionltd Thanks, i bought new Sasch actuator and tried to relearn drag point and clutch pulsing and it works, however im still not able to finish Clutch disengage/engage point calibration, i have still error in my diagnostic APP. I would like to ask - its normal that actuator make small movement (maybe 3mm) every 3 seconds on the Neutral with Engine started?
When ignition ON, engine OFF, actuator is not moving but with engine ON, actuator moves few milimeters (3mm to the clutch, and back from clutch). It looks like its some control signal for transmission system? Or its issue because im not able to finish clutch engage/disengage calibration via diagnostic?
I ordered new clutch actuator connector with cable harness so i will try to resolder it, maybe it will help.
Thanks!
That electric motor works very little and benefits from air flow cooling.
On the Smart 450, the clutch actuator is maintained periodically (usually in the fall). When did you last have it maintained?
i was getting sporadic times when it wouldn't go into gear. i took it off, mine has also the rivets, so put grease inside. put it back in. now i saw where the marks were when it came out, and and i used a reverse clamp to push it so it would line up... did you have to do that also or just put it in, and put the screws back in? also the plastic was really brittle and the tabs snapped of... and like a dummy i didn't mark which way it went in - i may have put it in backwards. also saw a video where a guy had software so the car would 'relearn' the clutch?? if 1 and 6 are the power, what are the colour of the wires going IN to those please?
You don't need to worry about pulling the rod in or out,using a 12v battery put 1 pos wire on number 1 and one neg wire on number six will operate the lever, just change around so so swap Ng to positive and visa versa
One will push lever out the other will pull it back in don't force the lever using clamps, David
Usually when you go to the actuator, you have to relearn the clutch with MBStar.
Sometimes, if you mark the actuator position before removing it, you may not need soft adjustment.
Other times, you need soft adjustment periodically.
If the car starts smoothly (without jerking) it's ok. If there are big jerks and jerks when starting, then soft adjustment must also be done.
The colors depend on the model, anyway you can't do anything by accessing the ECU from there but you can eventually damage the ECU.
Check to waste time ...
The actuator also has 2 position sensors inside. If a sensor does not work 100% there are problems with jerks and other 'joys'.
If that sensor does not work at all it displays 3 lines and the rest is silence. If the actuator position is out of adjustment then it jerks and in time it perforates the actuation lever. After it is drilled it gives 3 lines.
Sensors are encapsulated inside the electric motor and transmit to the engine computer (MEG for gasoline) the position of the actuator rod to be able to actuate the gear change servomotor.
So the actuator works in vain, it is necessary for the ECU to know the position of the rod.