The most realistic sailing channel on YT. Showing that it’s not all flash new cats and cocktails at sunset but instead doing it in a way that’s affordable and practical for most adventurous people. Well done guys, love it😁
Good video ! A Few Electrical ideas 💡/ ways to do stuff that I Do. 1) Buy & Use Reusable wire ties. They have little balls on them and latch into the wire tie hole. Better for environment & u can keep a nice looking panel that way. 2) An easy way to make a Panel look nice is to make a path in a Z Pattern. Putting reusable wire ties at the 90 degree points of turn. Establish the 90 degree points of turn by screwing a Wire Tie pad eye at the 90 degree turn point. Then you wire tie at the 90 degree points. 3) Leave a Small circle of wire at each point of connection for future service. I call it a Service loop.leaves u just enough wire to repair a connection or troubleshoot. 4) if u are doing wiring where wires may get Wet somewhere such as a Anchor locker etc. Do what I call a Drip loop for wiring. So the water drips off a Wire rather than running into the Device. Make the Wire come out of powered device , then Go Down 3” with wire , Then back up again to Deck & Before penetrating another space , do same thing again as to keep Water from running along a Cable. Neat idea with the Volt meter For troubleshooting / Not having to get a Meter. I’ve got a Suggestion you might like on that one to improve it a bit, while still keeping the great idea. Install male & female push ons on the wire to the alligator clips. So alligator clips could be removed and just stowed in the cabinet in a little ziplock bag. But still hardwire meter to buss bar with female push on. Connector. Alligator clips would be in cabinet in ziploc baggie with wire attached and a Male Push on connector on them. Then u can just pull off female off buss & connect to alligator clip wire male push on when u want to troubleshoot.
So nice to see tidy wiring! So many boats seem to employ the maximum entropy wiring model, and people forget that a battery will deliver hundreds of amps and turn their $hit job into a red hot firestarter in seconds if things go wrong.
Oh and you don’t have to cut zip ties to get them off. Simply use the tip of a blade such as on a Leatherman to hold the tang down and pull the long part of the cable through until it is released. Then you can reuse the cable.
"A relationship with every system onboard"....That is the very best advice I've ever heard!! I've been lucky enough to have done a lot of sea miles in small yachts...and that comment captures the absolute truth. If you want to be safe, confident and independent.....those are the words to live by! Congratulations (as always) on all that you do!
I have a strained relationship with some of the systems in my house, but they aren't generally as critical as ones on a boat. I loved the phrase, and it reminded me of a line from Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: "Assembly of Japanese bicycle is require of great patience."
I'm also a woodworker I believe those are called "spade bits" Forstner bits are round. Beautiful wiring work, clean & smart. Wow I didn't know you were going to refit everything topside. Going to be a brand new boat inside & out when finished.
Another nice job. You guys are very fortunate to have access to such a nice workshop. It is so much easier with the tools to complete a task all at hand.
Gday from Nz. The way you explain things Troy is definitely NOT yawn inducing. I'm guessing you could describe the inside of an eggshell without boring us. Looking forward to launch day. ATB. Take care and stay safe.
I've been a professional shipwright for 20+ years, so I've seen a trick or two, but hadn't seen that alligator clip volt meter trick. That's pretty slick.
As ever a pleasure to watch this well done ,smart video.Great score too . Pascale radiate happiness and troy has all reason to be prood keeping his two ladies glowing
Forstner bits... are not spade bits, if you like those spade bits you'll love actual forstner bits. Love your channel, yall are awesome! Keep up the great work!
Agreed, but he brought up a point about those spade bits I didn't know - how well they work on plywood. I haven't used mine in years, but may dust them off now. One advantage of Forstner bits is that you can drill a clean hole at an angle, which spade or twist bits won't.
Very nice work. Both of you smiling ear to ear... We can tell you are loving the home makeover. Yeah, tape is my goto corner clamp. Also, spade bits do make a nice clean entry. But, they like to blow out the back. When drilling through with a spade bit, stop once the point gets through, then flip the piece and hit it from the other side. Better yet, drill a pilot with a small diameter twist bit. Then work toward the middle from both sides. BTW, a forstner is a different bit. But, one can use the same techniques.
@@FreeRangeLiving Troy don't feel bad, your depth of knowledge is amazing but you are human ;-). You were using a "spurred spade bit". They can be used in a drill press or with a portable drill. Forstener bits are an "amazing bit of kit" that can drill overlapping holes and make flat bottomed recesses. But They are scary sharp and not advisable for use without a drill press.
To prevent blow out on the exit hole when using forstners, always clamp a waste piece of wood to the back of the hole and the drill will cut through leaving a clean cut but wrecking the waste piece instead.
@@wildtimbrown All good points Tim. One of the pluses to the forstner bit is it is much better at not allowing blow out on the back side. That problem really goes away unless your really forcing the bit to plunge fast.
Yes; when "Fixing" my car's glove box with magnets I glued them on the wrong way round... I always enjoy your videos. The boat will soon be better than new. I love the way the two of you seem to enjoy eachother's company and work so well together.
Every week I watch your videos and every week I learn something new, and every week I thumbs up. Excellent stuff thank you. I noticed a sailing channel called Sailing Magic Carpet who mentioned you as their favourite other sailing channel and that man is a boatbuilder by trade.
I’ve *so* enjoyed the refit sequence. Loads of great ideas and tips. Also realised that this is more than a refit for a boat, it’s therapeutic for the two of you! Great to have glimpses of your own rejuvenation! 👌🏽👍🏼🎉⛵️💯
Troy, what a blessing to be able to do the cabinets in a real workshop. You had every tool for the job a man could hope for. Fine work you two. She is getting prettier by the week. Love watching you two go through your paces. These projects don't turn out this good without some serious skill level. Can't wait to see the rest of your refit. Especially interested to see how you replant the stanchions.
great videos - watching a few old ones and been to a few of the northern WA spots in a powered craft. A quick consideration for your electrical system design is that if you are charging via solar or wind and you inadvertently cycle the battery isolator through the off position, or switch off on purpose (elec storm, maintenance) , your instruments (GPS, inverter?) could be subject to higher than acceptable voltages (fried). Learned this first hand once. a good approach is to use isolators on the raw charging circuits (pre regulator)
Beautiful work on a thoughtful and professional refit! I hate to bring this up after they're finished, but are the sharp edges a risk during bad weather? I could see getting an injury in the dark. You haven't finished yet, but have you thought about labels and documentation inside the electrical cabinet? Future generations (and you) will appreciate it years from now - when it isn't fresh and obvious. Finding a schematic inside a machine is a joy! LOVED the idea of the voltmeter with alligator clips - fantastic! Have you considered doing the same with your current meter from the shunt? FYI, the current trickle you saw on the meter (8 mA?) might be for the LED displays themselves.
Very good food for thought, how many fragile systems do I need. I am reminded of an uncle (long dead) who I cruised with in the 70's his boat was empty it had a bare wooden floor and nothing else but a forward bulkhead below seating was folding deck chairs a bed was a foam squab and sleeping bag cooking was a primus kero stove, lighting a kero lamp, no battery, running lights also kero lamps, he relented to a seagull 4hp outboard in his dotage, but we cruised some serious miles in that old boat, happy days.
It’s a spade bit, Forstener bits are round. BTW, spline joints are the best, but if you wanted to get really fancy, you could have done dove tail joints. 😎
Cabinets are beautiful. I run wires for a living and I hate massive amounts of zip ties as well. I make utility loops and have used Velcro ties. On low voltage small gauge i have used phone punch down blocks and wrapped two or three times for utility trim backs. Dielectric gel might also help in corrosion and electrolysis. Looks good!!!! I like it!!!
Great cabinetmaking and good to see you learning some secrets we use ..... like the masking tape for mitres. This has turned out to be a huge undertaking but I'm sure it will be well worth it. Can't wait to see it the completed job, inside and out.
Nice. A very clean and simple DC distribution system. As an electrician I would suggest that the alligator clips to the voltmeter be well-insulated except at the front of the jaws. If somehow the leeds get loose, and start bouncing around inside there, you want to minimize the chances of bridging between any different areas of electrical potential. I'm sure everything is fused, including the panel feeder mains , but if the clip fell across the two busbars at the bottom you'd lose the entire system -GPS, Nav lights, compass backlight, cabin lights... I am assuming you have a switch and fuse/breaker between the solar controller and the busbar. I found a bunch of appropriately-sized 2-pole DC breakers that were DIN-mounted and really reasonably-priced on eBay. I was able to use those as overcurrent-protected disconnects for my PV and wind turbine. I also found a large lot of DIN-mounted fuse-holders so I was able to build combiner boxes for the load side of the PV system to protect all the parallel-fed solar panels to protect them from each other should one of them go drongo and short out internally. I really like using DIN-rail as it makes a neat installation and is relatively cheap. It is legos for electricians.
A DIN rail would have been great but the depth of the cabinet prevented it. You're right though, very satisfying to install. All the supply has circuit breakers and the bus will be rubber coated. Still a work in progress.
All the "fragile systems" are really just little luxuries but can often be quite handy while they work. As you say Troy, they will only continue to work if well maintained and therefore add to a maintenance workload. But any sailor worth their salt should be able to continue managing a boat effectively if not well should "fragile systems" fail for un-forseen reasons. I am an advocate of safety features such as AIS and Radar.
I really like your hinged divider door idea in the electrical cabinet. Everything through out the rework area s well thought out. Thank you both for showing us your ongoing refit!!
That's a great looking switchboard and I love your idea about the cable conduit as I am doing some wiring in my 4wd and I can use that idea for that also, I hate having to cut and put back on more cable ties.
Troy, your philosophy about “fragile systems” vs time for carefree sailing was excellent I thought. It also applies across so many other technologies eg. four wheel driving where you add aftermarket diff locks, air bag height adjustment, turbo timers etc.
Very nice work, one thing i find a little dangerous is the fact that your positive and negative from the batteries are so open and close together. Working in there and by accident dropping a screwdriver or something else metal might create a short between them. Best is that you add 2 isolating covers to go over them. one for the positive and one for the negative.
Takes me back to my apprenticeship. I was to become a radio mechanic (now there's an anachronism) in the 1980's. The old grey beards were very patient and swore by waxed cotton string rather than plastic cable ties... If my wiring looms weren't beautifully symmetrical I'd be sent back to start again. Nothing crimped, all soldered. The very worst thing you could do was to cut corners or bodge something.
Really love the logic of allowing things to be a little less refined, in order to have them more practical. I used the same switchboards on my camper and x3 years later have had 0 issues. Not open to salty air, but still...they’re decent.
Great video as usual! I appreciate how informational they all are. I am currently looking at reworking my electrical systems on my 73 Islander 30 MKII. It isn't quite as aged as Mirrool but still in need of an update. Anyways, Thanks for all of the videos you two!
What a team. Love the detailed descriptions and attention to eliminating salty air from the electrical work. After doing electrical work (for the first time) on a tinny a few years back., Troy inspires me to redo completely my initial attempt and to use 'Loom Coil' as that will tidy up all the wires. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to see your completed refit before our ozzy isolation opens up again and the voyage continues
Great idea with tape and mitre joins. Real nice wiring plan. Our 1969 Swanson needs similar rewire of an AAA Class rats nest. Must have been similar Elec tradey ideas on NSW East coast that year lol. Love your work!!!
Great work guys and thanks for the rationale for your decisions. 👍 I noticed that your wires enter the box from below, through the bulkhead, rather than from inside the box so they are hidden. I’m curious to why you did it this way. I expect you still have some cleanup on the hanging wires, but the wire holes in the bulkhead look permanent.
Isn't progress grand sometimes. The difference in size of the breakers between old and new is amazing. Also LED lights are probably a god send since your video production is such a power hungry process. Nice neat job. You guys have the patient's of Job. Keep safe, keep sailing.
Excellent video. The work is always robust yet eligent. Very well done electrical panel. Well thought out. I like the alligator clips on flexible leads for the voltmeter. Smart!!
The quality and thoughtfulness I've come to expect from you three. Wiring tests my patience greatly and I too always strive to simplify it as much as possible. Lol, I see some of the cats with full entertainment suites, laundry machines, dedicated ice maker etc and think oh you poor people.
So pleasing to see how you both look and are getting on with the refit. She’s coming along very nicely. So clean, neat and tidy. You must be pleased with your efforts. Also, just as pleasing is how safe and well you both appear during our pandemic. Looking forward to the relaunch and future episodes of your adventures. Stay safe. As always a 👍 from me. 🇬🇧
Steven G Tasmania hasn’t had a case of community acquired Covid for 148 days now (despite a significant outbreak at the start of this pandemic). Lucky they didn’t decide to do their refit in Victoria. We had a big breakout of virus from our compulsory hotel quarantine in June and have been under hard lockdown for the last couple of months (ie. can’t travel more than 5km from our home, compulsory mask wearing outside your home, 8pm-5am curfew, etc.). Victoria aside, Australia has done remarkably well.
The alligator clips for the voltmeter is brilliant! I wish my setup was simple enough to allow for such an elegant solution. Are you planning to put covers on those bus bars? I'd be worried about dropping a wrench and creating a dead short across them.
Having done alot of boat interior's, i have never seen the clever use of tape to hold a miter joint together, bravo, and you two are doing an exemplary job.
Always a pleasure to listen to your explanations of your work and watching you put things together. It comes from wisdom and I respect that. You never know what you’ll pick up from a person like you that may come in handy later on. Thank you Troy.
Looks really good. The cable entry at the bottom is a problem for me as it is not hidden. Perhaps a brass pipe fitting to make it look neat and tidy. Or maybe some flexible hose.
@@Garryck-1 Hi Jafo. Ship2Shore is a corrosion inhibitor coating. An amazing product that has been the salvation of my rusty old tub. More recently I lost a pair of pliers that I'd sprayed with a tiny am omount of this stuff under a sail bag in my cockpit during a week at sea. When I found them they could've just as easily have been sitting the tool box for a week. S2S is available in Aussie from Seairland Services in QLD.
@@anguspure - Found the Aussie distributor's website for it.. having looked through the various products, I must admit I'm impressed. Thanks again! www.ship-2-shore.com.au/
Hi, love your videos! Some nagging though: I don't like the bus bars, open and close together, there's plenty of scenarios to short them out. Loose alligator clips for example, a dropped screwdriver or a ring on your finger (like stumbling in big seas and bracing on the bars gives a branding). Also, the (tinned) cable lugs will have some electrolytic corrosion with the aluminum, tinned copper bars would have been a better choice. And I don't like wood as an electrical insulator, if the busbar heats up due connection problems, it starts a fire quicker than other materials.
@@toratora3910 It most definitely will if it has DC power on it. This is active electrolysis, not passive. And it won't stay perfectly dry in the wet salt air.
Fantastic guys. You are a bloody good teacher Troy. You too Paskey. Love your work. I reackon you can sail that too NZ. Summer weather window. Virus free. LOL.
The most realistic sailing channel on YT. Showing that it’s not all flash new cats and cocktails at sunset but instead doing it in a way that’s affordable and practical for most adventurous people. Well done guys, love it😁
Whoa!! Mirrool looks naked! That’s a serious overhaul! Such amazing craftsmanship! She already looks warm and inviting. Cheers from Portland, Oregon.
Using tape on the mitre joints, what elegance and genius. Great idea Lance and beautifully demonstrated by Troy
Good video ! A Few Electrical ideas 💡/ ways to do stuff that I Do.
1) Buy & Use Reusable wire ties. They have little balls on them and latch into the wire tie hole. Better for environment & u can keep a nice looking panel that way.
2) An easy way to make a Panel look nice is to make a path in a Z Pattern. Putting reusable wire ties at the 90 degree points of turn. Establish the 90 degree points of turn by screwing a Wire Tie pad eye at the 90 degree turn point. Then you wire tie at the 90 degree points.
3) Leave a Small circle of wire at each point of connection for future service. I call it a Service loop.leaves u just enough wire to repair a connection or troubleshoot.
4) if u are doing wiring where wires may get Wet somewhere such as a Anchor locker etc. Do what I call a Drip loop for wiring. So the water drips off a Wire rather than running into the Device. Make the Wire come out of powered device , then Go Down 3” with wire , Then back up again to Deck & Before penetrating another space , do same thing again as to keep Water from running along a Cable.
Neat idea with the Volt meter For troubleshooting / Not having to get a Meter.
I’ve got a Suggestion you might like on that one to improve it a bit, while still keeping the great idea. Install male & female push ons on the wire to the alligator clips. So alligator clips could be removed and just stowed in the cabinet in a little ziplock bag. But still hardwire meter to buss bar with female push on. Connector. Alligator clips would be in cabinet in ziploc baggie with wire attached and a Male Push on connector on them. Then u can just pull off female off buss & connect to alligator clip wire male push on when u want to troubleshoot.
As a marine electrical/electronic technician I have to say your electrical work is spot on...Cracking job.
So nice to see tidy wiring! So many boats seem to employ the maximum entropy wiring model, and people forget that a battery will deliver hundreds of amps and turn their $hit job into a red hot firestarter in seconds if things go wrong.
More great shared tips, Awesome Workmanship and Craftsmanship. Thank you Troy! You and Pascale are Awesome together 👏🏻💕
Oh and you don’t have to cut zip ties to get them off. Simply use the tip of a blade such as on a Leatherman to hold the tang down and pull the long part of the cable through until it is released. Then you can reuse the cable.
"A relationship with every system onboard"....That is the very best advice I've ever heard!! I've been lucky enough to have done a lot of sea miles in small yachts...and that comment captures the absolute truth. If you want to be safe, confident and independent.....those are the words to live by! Congratulations (as always) on all that you do!
I have a strained relationship with some of the systems in my house, but they aren't generally as critical as ones on a boat.
I loved the phrase, and it reminded me of a line from Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: "Assembly of Japanese bicycle is require of great patience."
You two look so proud of yourselves and so you should be
Refit? Rebuild! Just amazing what you are doing.
I'm also a woodworker I believe those are called "spade bits" Forstner bits are round. Beautiful wiring work, clean & smart. Wow I didn't know you were going to refit everything topside. Going to be a brand new boat inside & out when finished.
Another nice job. You guys are very fortunate to have access to such a nice workshop. It is so much easier with the tools to complete a task all at hand.
Gday from Nz. The way you explain things Troy is definitely NOT yawn inducing. I'm guessing you could describe the inside of an eggshell without boring us. Looking forward to launch day. ATB. Take care and stay safe.
Lol, didn't you see that episode? !?😂😂😂
I love watching you two, you're keeping me sane in the U.S. at the moment which is quite the accomplishment.
I agree! 😄
Yeah, same here in Argentina
I've been a professional shipwright for 20+ years, so I've seen a trick or two, but hadn't seen that alligator clip volt meter trick. That's pretty slick.
The most thorough “refit” I’ve ever seen. It’s more like, making a New boat out of an older solid hull. Incredible really.
Wade Jameson you might want to watch Mads on Sail Life for the ultimate “Re-fit”.
@@peterkacandes5905 Mads spent years while Troy is only spending months for the refit. Some are sailors, other builders.
Lance's shop is a dream shop. I suspect it isn't luck you found a fantastic workshop and tutor.
As ever a pleasure to watch this well done ,smart video.Great score too . Pascale radiate happiness and troy has all reason to be prood keeping his two ladies glowing
fantastic approach to simplicity and reliability! Nice idea the alligator clamps!
So , all you need now is a new hull , then you'll have a completely new boat. Excellent work BTW.
At 10:12, that is a spade bit rather than a Forstener bit.
Let me tell you this....this guys are professionals👌
Forstner bits... are not spade bits, if you like those spade bits you'll love actual forstner bits. Love your channel, yall are awesome! Keep up the great work!
Well done. Looking great. You two are amazing. 👍👍
Those were spade bits. Forstner bits are different.
The good news is that if you love spade bits, Forstner bits will blow your mind!
I like brad point drill bits as well. Just, not common in the larger sizes.
Yep, good quality forstner bits are amazing...you’ll never go back to spade bits.
Also spade bits are easy to sharpen with a small file. I wouldn't attempt Forstner bits.
Agreed, but he brought up a point about those spade bits I didn't know - how well they work on plywood. I haven't used mine in years, but may dust them off now.
One advantage of Forstner bits is that you can drill a clean hole at an angle, which spade or twist bits won't.
Very nice work. Both of you smiling ear to ear... We can tell you are loving the home makeover.
Yeah, tape is my goto corner clamp. Also, spade bits do make a nice clean entry. But, they like to blow out the back. When drilling through with a spade bit, stop once the point gets through, then flip the piece and hit it from the other side. Better yet, drill a pilot with a small diameter twist bit. Then work toward the middle from both sides. BTW, a forstner is a different bit. But, one can use the same techniques.
I figured that someone would beat me to the Forstner bit identification. Troy does seem to have good spade bits with spurs.
I suspect this will be the beginning of a long succession of corrections in the comments! I've been living a lie:(
@@FreeRangeLiving Troy don't feel bad, your depth of knowledge is amazing but you are human ;-). You were using a "spurred spade bit". They can be used in a drill press or with a portable drill. Forstener bits are an "amazing bit of kit" that can drill overlapping holes and make flat bottomed recesses. But They are scary sharp and not advisable for use without a drill press.
To prevent blow out on the exit hole when using forstners, always clamp a waste piece of wood to the back of the hole and the drill will cut through leaving a clean cut but wrecking the waste piece instead.
@@wildtimbrown All good points Tim. One of the pluses to the forstner bit is it is much better at not allowing blow out on the back side. That problem really goes away unless your really forcing the bit to plunge fast.
Yes; when "Fixing" my car's glove box with magnets I glued them on the wrong way round...
I always enjoy your videos. The boat will soon be better than new. I love the way the two of you seem to enjoy eachother's company and work so well together.
Every week I watch your videos and every week I learn something new, and every week I thumbs up. Excellent stuff thank you. I noticed a sailing channel called Sailing Magic Carpet who mentioned you as their favourite other sailing channel and that man is a boatbuilder by trade.
I’ve *so* enjoyed the refit sequence. Loads of great ideas and tips.
Also realised that this is more than a refit for a boat, it’s therapeutic for the two of you! Great to have glimpses of your own rejuvenation! 👌🏽👍🏼🎉⛵️💯
That's a great job.. just remember to label everything.
Excellent work guys. Can I suggest instead of cable ties use waxed string. It’s what we use in aircraft for lacing. Has multiple uses too.
Troy, what a blessing to be able to do the cabinets in a real workshop. You had every tool for the job a man could hope for. Fine work you two. She is getting prettier by the week. Love watching you two go through your paces. These projects don't turn out this good without some serious skill level. Can't wait to see the rest of your refit. Especially interested to see how you replant the stanchions.
Ah guys, that’s a spade bit rather than a forstner bit. Completely different shape.
great videos - watching a few old ones and been to a few of the northern WA spots in a powered craft.
A quick consideration for your electrical system design is that if you are charging via solar or wind and you inadvertently cycle the battery isolator through the off position, or switch off on purpose (elec storm, maintenance) , your instruments (GPS, inverter?) could be subject to higher than acceptable voltages (fried). Learned this first hand once.
a good approach is to use isolators on the raw charging circuits (pre regulator)
Your workmanship is top notch ... ⛵💕
Beautiful work on a thoughtful and professional refit!
I hate to bring this up after they're finished, but are the sharp edges a risk during bad weather? I could see getting an injury in the dark.
You haven't finished yet, but have you thought about labels and documentation inside the electrical cabinet? Future generations (and you) will appreciate it years from now - when it isn't fresh and obvious. Finding a schematic inside a machine is a joy!
LOVED the idea of the voltmeter with alligator clips - fantastic! Have you considered doing the same with your current meter from the shunt? FYI, the current trickle you saw on the meter (8 mA?) might be for the LED displays themselves.
Looking great! Stay safe and keep having fun!
Very good food for thought, how many fragile systems do I need. I am reminded of an uncle (long dead) who I cruised with in the 70's his boat was empty it had a bare wooden floor and nothing else but a forward bulkhead below seating was folding deck chairs a bed was a foam squab and sleeping bag cooking was a primus kero stove, lighting a kero lamp, no battery, running lights also kero lamps, he relented to a seagull 4hp outboard in his dotage, but we cruised some serious miles in that old boat, happy days.
Looks very neat and well thought out! Nice work!
I am loving the construction details. I am planning on getting a boat similar to yours and restoring so for now I’m all about that.
Awesome Work! Troy, you are a super man!
It’s a spade bit, Forstener bits are round. BTW, spline joints are the best, but if you wanted to get really fancy, you could have done dove tail joints. 😎
Outstanding videos You guys. What an excellent description of what and how you installed everything. Cheers, RJ
It’s a joy to see how proud and excited you both are about the improvements. The boat looks great!
Cabinets are beautiful.
I run wires for a living and I hate massive amounts of zip ties as well. I make utility loops and have used Velcro ties. On low voltage small gauge i have used phone punch down blocks and wrapped two or three times for utility trim backs.
Dielectric gel might also help in corrosion and electrolysis.
Looks good!!!! I like it!!!
Looked up punch down blocks. That's a good tip, thanks. We have since sourced a little Velcro too.
We call those spade bits in the US. Forster bits are round, perpendicular to the drilling direction, here.
Great cabinetmaking and good to see you learning some secrets we use ..... like the masking tape for mitres. This has turned out to be a huge undertaking but I'm sure it will be well worth it. Can't wait to see it the completed job, inside and out.
Nice. A very clean and simple DC distribution system.
As an electrician I would suggest that the alligator clips to the voltmeter be well-insulated except at the front of the jaws. If somehow the leeds get loose, and start bouncing around inside there, you want to minimize the chances of bridging between any different areas of electrical potential. I'm sure everything is fused, including the panel feeder mains , but if the clip fell across the two busbars at the bottom you'd lose the entire system -GPS, Nav lights, compass backlight, cabin lights...
I am assuming you have a switch and fuse/breaker between the solar controller and the busbar. I found a bunch of appropriately-sized 2-pole DC breakers that were DIN-mounted and really reasonably-priced on eBay. I was able to use those as overcurrent-protected disconnects for my PV and wind turbine. I also found a large lot of DIN-mounted fuse-holders so I was able to build combiner boxes for the load side of the PV system to protect all the parallel-fed solar panels to protect them from each other should one of them go drongo and short out internally. I really like using DIN-rail as it makes a neat installation and is relatively cheap. It is legos for electricians.
A DIN rail would have been great but the depth of the cabinet prevented it. You're right though, very satisfying to install. All the supply has circuit breakers and the bus will be rubber coated. Still a work in progress.
All the "fragile systems" are really just little luxuries but can often be quite handy while they work.
As you say Troy, they will only continue to work if well maintained and therefore add to a maintenance workload.
But any sailor worth their salt should be able to continue managing a boat effectively if not well should "fragile systems" fail for un-forseen reasons.
I am an advocate of safety features such as AIS and Radar.
You both are doing very nice work. Have you thought of adding a small led light in your electrical panel? Love your videos!
Thanks Troy. I learnt a lot from this video.
Really good advice to keep it simple!
I really like your hinged divider door idea in the electrical cabinet. Everything through out the rework area s well thought out. Thank you both for showing us your ongoing refit!!
That's a great looking switchboard and I love your idea about the cable conduit as I am doing some wiring in my 4wd and I can use that idea for that also, I hate having to cut and put back on more cable ties.
Nice work will look good when finished
Workshop envy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Troy, your philosophy about “fragile systems” vs time for carefree sailing was excellent I thought. It also applies across so many other technologies eg. four wheel driving where you add aftermarket diff locks, air bag height adjustment, turbo timers etc.
What dream workshop!
Very nice work, one thing i find a little dangerous is the fact that your positive and negative from the batteries are so open and close together. Working in there and by accident dropping a screwdriver or something else metal might create a short between them. Best is that you add 2 isolating covers to go over them. one for the positive and one for the negative.
great work and great explanation of your switch board.
Nice job. Enjoyed watching and learning from you. I Just completed a similar door mounted 6 switch panel...freshwater pump, etc.
Takes me back to my apprenticeship. I was to become a radio mechanic (now there's an anachronism) in the 1980's. The old grey beards were very patient and swore by waxed cotton string rather than plastic cable ties... If my wiring looms weren't beautifully symmetrical I'd be sent back to start again. Nothing crimped, all soldered. The very worst thing you could do was to cut corners or bodge something.
Nice work Troy, you all certainly have an unstoppable boat.
CHEERS !!! BEAUTIFUL !!!!
Ok this is video number 26 of my "I want to buy a Free Range Sailing hoody" campaign
Cheers
Matt
Your quaint boat will soon be a total custom done to your standards... I'm sure that's a great thing! Cheers from Oklahoma USA
started watching you guys some time ago, love it .....nice work on the boat,all the best from Hervey Bay
Looking good, so great to see you able to make something good out if the crazy Rona situation.
Really love the logic of allowing things to be a little less refined, in order to have them more practical. I used the same switchboards on my camper and x3 years later have had 0 issues. Not open to salty air, but still...they’re decent.
Great video as usual! I appreciate how informational they all are. I am currently looking at reworking my electrical systems on my 73 Islander 30 MKII. It isn't quite as aged as Mirrool but still in need of an update. Anyways, Thanks for all of the videos you two!
What a team. Love the detailed descriptions and attention to eliminating salty air from the electrical work. After doing electrical work (for the first time) on a tinny a few years back., Troy inspires me to redo completely my initial attempt and to use 'Loom Coil' as that will tidy up all the wires. Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to see your completed refit before our ozzy isolation opens up again and the voyage continues
Excellent work .Looking forward to the finished article. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe. Fair winds & regards from the UK
Cant wait to see you folks moving again. Boat looks amazing great job get rested and ready!
Great idea with tape and mitre joins. Real nice wiring plan. Our 1969 Swanson needs similar rewire of an AAA Class rats nest. Must have been similar Elec tradey ideas on NSW East coast that year lol. Love your work!!!
Great work guys and thanks for the rationale for your decisions. 👍
I noticed that your wires enter the box from below, through the bulkhead, rather than from inside the box so they are hidden. I’m curious to why you did it this way. I expect you still have some cleanup on the hanging wires, but the wire holes in the bulkhead look permanent.
Isn't progress grand sometimes. The difference in size of the breakers between old and new is amazing. Also LED lights are probably a god send since your video production is such a power hungry process. Nice neat job. You guys have the patient's of Job. Keep safe, keep sailing.
Another great and informative video. Great stuff.
Excellent video. The work is always robust yet eligent. Very well done electrical panel. Well thought out. I like the alligator clips on flexible leads for the voltmeter. Smart!!
Outstanding electrical box.
Love the simplicity and beauty of your work.
The quality and thoughtfulness I've come to expect from you three. Wiring tests my patience greatly and I too always strive to simplify it as much as possible. Lol, I see some of the cats with full entertainment suites, laundry machines, dedicated ice maker etc and think oh you poor people.
Mirrool is looking great.
Thanks guys, keep it up. I love what you are doing.
Bruce Fairlie would be proud. I'm still impressed how similar her lines are to a cherished Swedish Folkboat I once had.
So pleasing to see how you both look and are getting on with the refit. She’s coming along very nicely. So clean, neat and tidy. You must be pleased with your efforts. Also, just as pleasing is how safe and well you both appear during our pandemic. Looking forward to the relaunch and future episodes of your adventures. Stay safe. As always a 👍 from me. 🇬🇧
Steven G Tasmania hasn’t had a case of community acquired Covid for 148 days now (despite a significant outbreak at the start of this pandemic). Lucky they didn’t decide to do their refit in Victoria. We had a big breakout of virus from our compulsory hotel quarantine in June and have been under hard lockdown for the last couple of months (ie. can’t travel more than 5km from our home, compulsory mask wearing outside your home, 8pm-5am curfew, etc.). Victoria aside, Australia has done remarkably well.
The alligator clips for the voltmeter is brilliant! I wish my setup was simple enough to allow for such an elegant solution. Are you planning to put covers on those bus bars? I'd be worried about dropping a wrench and creating a dead short across them.
Yes to covers but switchboard busses are protected by circuit breakers at the distribution hub and at the battery compartment.
You both have done a great job refitting.
Its amazing what you can do with a good shop and tools, vs using only hand tools. Great job. Looks great.
Great looking cabnets brings lots of symmetry to the boat. Pascal i love the mister squiggle reffersnce... i use it all the time.
Having done alot of boat interior's, i have never seen the clever use of tape to hold a miter joint together, bravo, and you two are doing an exemplary job.
Always a pleasure to listen to your explanations of your work and watching you put things together. It comes from wisdom and I respect that. You never know what you’ll pick up from a person like you that may come in handy later on. Thank you Troy.
Looks really good. The cable entry at the bottom is a problem for me as it is not hidden. Perhaps a brass pipe fitting to make it look neat and tidy. Or maybe some flexible hose.
Timber housing. It's not complete yet
Some great work guys. And some even better advice on the KISS principle.
Really nice guys and thanks for the tips.Treat those drill bits with S2S and they'll stay as good as new.
"S2S" could mean many, many things.. for the benefit of those of us elsewhere in the world, what exactly is S2S?
@@Garryck-1 Hi Jafo. Ship2Shore is a corrosion inhibitor coating. An amazing product that has been the salvation of my rusty old tub. More recently I lost a pair of pliers that I'd sprayed with a tiny am omount of this stuff under a sail bag in my cockpit during a week at sea. When I found them they could've just as easily have been sitting the tool box for a week. S2S is available in Aussie from Seairland Services in QLD.
@@anguspure - Many thanks! I hadn't heard of it before...
@@anguspure - Found the Aussie distributor's website for it.. having looked through the various products, I must admit I'm impressed. Thanks again! www.ship-2-shore.com.au/
Sounds great, but seems pricey for home/garage use at $19 US per small spray can (and sold in cases on their site).
Hi, love your videos! Some nagging though: I don't like the bus bars, open and close together, there's plenty of scenarios to short them out. Loose alligator clips for example, a dropped screwdriver or a ring on your finger (like stumbling in big seas and bracing on the bars gives a branding). Also, the (tinned) cable lugs will have some electrolytic corrosion with the aluminum, tinned copper bars would have been a better choice. And I don't like wood as an electrical insulator, if the busbar heats up due connection problems, it starts a fire quicker than other materials.
Yep, wood is a lousy insulator. Those bolts will suffer from electrolysis, and eventually will be badly corroded, or even catch fire.
@@graemezimmer604 you don't understand electrolysis if you think stainless steel will corrode near less noble metal in a dry cabinet.
@@toratora3910 It most definitely will if it has DC power on it. This is active electrolysis, not passive.
And it won't stay perfectly dry in the wet salt air.
It isn't finished, so maybe Troy will have covers for the bus bars.
... hopefully at least covers for the bolt heads that stick out of the bottom of the cabinet from the bus bars...
Fantastic guys. You are a bloody good teacher Troy. You too Paskey.
Love your work. I reackon you can sail that too NZ. Summer weather window.
Virus free. LOL.
Nicely done. Kudos.
Those are spade bits . A forstner bit drills a flat bottom hole with very little point below the bottom
Just got home on friday evening. Having some attitude adjustment and watching you guys. Ahhhhhh
DANG!...Again YOU DO Some Fantastic Workmanship VERY COOL!!!!!!!!