This is a great tip in this video. Another issue is the damper on the master cylinder can soften and flex taking fluid from the system and not fully actuating the slave cylinder.
Thank you very much, I’ve got to take a look at my neighbours one where he heard a bang and now the clutch is dragging massively and extremely difficult to engage gear when depressed. Sounds like the release bearing, same as yours.
Hi - I couldn't quite get gist of the measurement bit on the slave cylinder. I can measure from the end of the boot (furthest from the lever) to the lever itself and that measurement is about 48mm of movement once clutch pedal fully depressed. You mentioned measurements I believe when the arm is at rest, with or without a damaged bearing - Can you tell me what those two measurements are please?
Had clutch problems won’t go into gear. Iv looked the cable is ok but if I watch the piston push that bracket back as you have showed it don’t move very far like few cm the pedal is very high too I know the clutch had no slipping or smell is there away to adjust it
That's Fantastic. My garage keep saying the clutch is fine, the clutch cylinder is fine.. but i have days where getting gears is a night mare and then it starts working fine but the pedal only picks up at the last 20 mil and pedal has slack. Now i can show the numb nuts what's wrong.
Hello. Nice video. So basically when the clutch is fully pressed we should see a slave cylinder travel of between 4.5 to 5.5 cm? Is it right? Reason I am asking is that my Hyundai i30 has a clutch dumper. Just wanted to find out if in my case is the dump or is a bad clutch bearing. If the slave cylinder travel is less than the standard (which from your video I understand to be 4.5 to 5.5 cm of piston travel) then I might have air in the system or the clutch dumper is bad. If slave cylinder travels around 4.5 to 5.5 cm than for sure must be a bad bearing and time to change clutch. Could you please confirm me that the slave cylinder travel is 4.5-5.5 cm ?
Have you fixed it? Mine i30 1.6 crdi does the same. It bites after releasing 1 cm and feels like cannot engage gears properly. I tried to remove any possible air from installation but nothing has changed
@@vladcristian8535 Yes I fixed mine by changing the clutch kit. I bought an aftermarket LuK clutch kit, changed also the crankshaft oil seal on the side of the transmission as the old seal was leaking engine oil. I cleaned the flywheel, torqued down everything as per info I found online and cleaned, mounted the transmission. Car clutch is now like brand new. It does not bind immediately when you release the clutch. Now I have a 2-3 cm clutch pedal travel before the clutch binds. Also clutch pedal is lighter than before. Had to spent some time to get used to the new clutch. I already in the past changed one part called clutch dumper but that did not change anything. Only solution was to change clutch kit meaning, clutch disc, clutch pressure plate and throw out bearing. I changed also the throw out bearing fork but that was not necessary. Make sure to use high performance grease and use it adequately. Some places you can put a lot of grease but some places you need to put just enough grease otherwise it will splash around and contaminate pressure plate and clutch disc. I changed mine in my friends profession garage with his tools. By the way I measured my slave cylinder travel distance and it is the same before and after I fix my clutch. It is only 1.4cm of travel. If the slave cylinder piston moves 14-15mm than I would say the clutch master and slave cylinders are fine, also the clutch dumper is fine as they all are part of the same system. If you can measure the slave cylinder travel distance than you can for sure understand what is the issue in your case.
@@blediliciso your slave cylinder only moves 15mm? This video seems to suggest 45-50mm is normal. I don’t get it! I have the same problem. Also slave cylinder creaks as clutch depressed. Any advice?
@@CurboroughSprinter I got my clutch changed at around 160K km and that fixed the issue for me. Old clutch was not used, it could be used for probably 4-5 more years for my driving distances as it had plenty of friction material. But changing gears was getting too hard. After changing clutch disc, clutch fork and bearing still the head of the slave clutch cylinder moves around 15mm when clutch pedal is fully pressed and everything is now working smooth and I am able to change the gears easily. Also the clutch pedal before changing clutch disc, was a bit on the heavy side, now it needs less effort to press it. And as for creaking I also had the same sound coming from slave cylinder but mostly when car was sitting outside in the cold. If I parked inside than I usually did not hear the creaking sound. But I remember well the clutch pedal was hard to press before I changed the clutch kit, meaning clutch disc, pressure plate, throughout bearing and clutch fork. (I am not sure if clutch fork was needed to change but I though since we are putting lots of new parts a new clutch fork wont harm.)
Been going through this on mine and debating on whether to change the clutch. One thing, I would think a worn out clutch would actually raise the pedal up... thinner disc, worn pp, worn flywheel would make the pressure plate fingers stick further out, closer to the throw out bearing, reducing free play. I could be wrong, though. I still can't figure out why kia thought it would be a good idea to manufacture a car without any clutch free play adjustment. Bonehead move.
This is a great tip in this video. Another issue is the damper on the master cylinder can soften and flex taking fluid from the system and not fully actuating the slave cylinder.
Thank you very much, I’ve got to take a look at my neighbours one where he heard a bang and now the clutch is dragging massively and extremely difficult to engage gear when depressed.
Sounds like the release bearing, same as yours.
Hi - I couldn't quite get gist of the measurement bit on the slave cylinder. I can measure from the end of the boot (furthest from the lever) to the lever itself and that measurement is about 48mm of movement once clutch pedal fully depressed. You mentioned measurements I believe when the arm is at rest, with or without a damaged bearing - Can you tell me what those two measurements are please?
To be entirely honest I don't have the measurements at hand
@@lifeRobrandom The measurements I think are on the video, I just didn't understand the summary beyween 2:20 and 4:12
Thanks for the video
Had clutch problems won’t go into gear. Iv looked the cable is ok but if I watch the piston push that bracket back as you have showed it don’t move very far like few cm the pedal is very high too I know the clutch had no slipping or smell is there away to adjust it
Hyundai/Kia gearbox clutch problems are far too common, best avoid them altogether?
Make sure you don’t buy a home with popcorn ceilings too 😅
Ok I have one that's just the same can this damage the gear box ?? Thanks Gary
Hi.Thank You for Your video.I got my clutch pedal biting at 2cm from floor.Is there is any way to regulate height of clutch pedal?
If it's a hydraulic clutch there is usually no adjustment. See my comment above.
@@paulwright2906 there is adjustment just underneath of pedal.Manage to fix mine
Thanks for makin video. Would this apply to Rio II 2008 1.5 CRDi?
Possibly. Another problem is described in my comment above .
Good advice and thank you
This is very good to know. Thanks. 👍
That's Fantastic. My garage keep saying the clutch is fine, the clutch cylinder is fine.. but i have days where getting gears is a night mare and then it starts working fine but the pedal only picks up at the last 20 mil and pedal has slack. Now i can show the numb nuts what's wrong.
My Kia Sportage hire car (2021) just done this.
Hello. Nice video. So basically when the clutch is fully pressed we should see a slave cylinder travel of between 4.5 to 5.5 cm? Is it right? Reason I am asking is that my Hyundai i30 has a clutch dumper. Just wanted to find out if in my case is the dump or is a bad clutch bearing. If the slave cylinder travel is less than the standard (which from your video I understand to be 4.5 to 5.5 cm of piston travel) then I might have air in the system or the clutch dumper is bad. If slave cylinder travels around 4.5 to 5.5 cm than for sure must be a bad bearing and time to change clutch. Could you please confirm me that the slave cylinder travel is 4.5-5.5 cm ?
Have you fixed it? Mine i30 1.6 crdi does the same. It bites after releasing 1 cm and feels like cannot engage gears properly. I tried to remove any possible air from installation but nothing has changed
@@vladcristian8535 Yes I fixed mine by changing the clutch kit. I bought an aftermarket LuK clutch kit, changed also the crankshaft oil seal on the side of the transmission as the old seal was leaking engine oil. I cleaned the flywheel, torqued down everything as per info I found online and cleaned, mounted the transmission. Car clutch is now like brand new. It does not bind immediately when you release the clutch. Now I have a 2-3 cm clutch pedal travel before the clutch binds. Also clutch pedal is lighter than before. Had to spent some time to get used to the new clutch. I already in the past changed one part called clutch dumper but that did not change anything. Only solution was to change clutch kit meaning, clutch disc, clutch pressure plate and throw out bearing. I changed also the throw out bearing fork but that was not necessary. Make sure to use high performance grease and use it adequately. Some places you can put a lot of grease but some places you need to put just enough grease otherwise it will splash around and contaminate pressure plate and clutch disc. I changed mine in my friends profession garage with his tools.
By the way I measured my slave cylinder travel distance and it is the same before and after I fix my clutch. It is only 1.4cm of travel. If the slave cylinder piston moves 14-15mm than I would say the clutch master and slave cylinders are fine, also the clutch dumper is fine as they all are part of the same system. If you can measure the slave cylinder travel distance than you can for sure understand what is the issue in your case.
@@bledilici Great. Thank you for your help
@@blediliciso your slave cylinder only moves 15mm? This video seems to suggest 45-50mm is normal. I don’t get it! I have the same problem. Also slave cylinder creaks as clutch depressed. Any advice?
@@CurboroughSprinter I got my clutch changed at around 160K km and that fixed the issue for me. Old clutch was not used, it could be used for probably 4-5 more years for my driving distances as it had plenty of friction material. But changing gears was getting too hard. After changing clutch disc, clutch fork and bearing still the head of the slave clutch cylinder moves around 15mm when clutch pedal is fully pressed and everything is now working smooth and I am able to change the gears easily. Also the clutch pedal before changing clutch disc, was a bit on the heavy side, now it needs less effort to press it.
And as for creaking I also had the same sound coming from slave cylinder but mostly when car was sitting outside in the cold. If I parked inside than I usually did not hear the creaking sound. But I remember well the clutch pedal was hard to press before I changed the clutch kit, meaning clutch disc, pressure plate, throughout bearing and clutch fork. (I am not sure if clutch fork was needed to change but I though since we are putting lots of new parts a new clutch fork wont harm.)
Thank you for your video 📹
very helpful 👍
Do you have to replace the fly wheel too?
In the case of this vehicle no it's a solid flyer wheel
How big should be slave cylinder jump
Been going through this on mine and debating on whether to change the clutch.
One thing, I would think a worn out clutch would actually raise the pedal up... thinner disc, worn pp, worn flywheel would make the pressure plate fingers stick further out, closer to the throw out bearing, reducing free play. I could be wrong, though.
I still can't figure out why kia thought it would be a good idea to manufacture a car without any clutch free play adjustment. Bonehead move.
Unfortunately things aren't made to last these days