I am getting ready to build a 440 for my 72 dart and I can't express how valuable your videos are to me. Thank you very much for taking the time to go over this build and I look forward to your future videos!
B3 Racing Engines has an amazing article on the shortcomings of Mopar shaft rocker setup and how it effects the geometry. Definitely worth a read for anyone building a Mopar, small or big block.
I am working to get some of mine sorted out. When you do what Pete did, see how large the path is across the valve tip and understand what that really means, it is worth the time to get it straightened out. I am running Harland Sharps and have .120" across the tip face. Should be able to reduce that by over 50% moving the rocker shaft up and towards the intake.
you may want to try a set of Lash Caps for the valve stem face. there are different sizes ,diameters ,thickness .and manufacturs now. where before it was just mopar.
also like the max wedge stage 1 head , with the pedastils removed we were able to shim up the rocker stand blocks , or mill the blocks down more, also used lash caps . custum pushrods , recheck lift specs , rocker ratio etc , old school stuff ,
Another great video Pete. Your constant emphasis on FM and cleanliness cannot be overstated. Can't wait to see and hear the completed engine running on the dyno. P.S. I enjoyed the torque video, very informative experiment and clearly explained. Thanks again.
i used to make roller rockers and the best cleaning is all the lifters into a plastic bucket with kerosene and some magnets under the bucket some vibrating would be good = micro hardened steel dust sticks to the new processed parts ! some times rested the bucket against a air compressor and saw a better result on the magnets ! the vibrating - done individually in small plastic containers ! soaking hydraulic lifters for 24 hours is to remove air pockets as oil and gravity will push out all the bubbles inside the lifter - i have heard these lifters run dry on start up with out oil pump priming = so good luck and what ever works for you ! pedal to the metal !
Pete I love the 440 BBC (i have three) I appreciate your videos they are awesome!! Im building two 440/512's this winter for my boat!! I hate to say so but i agree completely with the comments about PRCOMP rockers.. I didnt know I had them on my motor until I lost one it was not old and not abused, they fail ALOT.. Comp Cams Pro Magnum STEEL ROLLERs are $700, come in 1.5 or 1.6, and they are IMHO the best value rocker for the 440 hands down, maybe the greatest roller rocker on the market honestly. They are the same weight as aluminum however they have ZERO needle bearings and are USA made and extremely high quality which is needed for the lift and spring pressure your running.. Its worth replacing the pushrods and for a few hundred more pony up for the COMP CAM PRO MAGNUMs..
I put 1 cam in on a rainy dark night back in 1997 in high school with my dad's mechanic friend. We didn't pre oil anything except moly lube on the lobes & I asked him do I need to break it in he said no, just drive it so in the morning I started it and went off to work. Nothing bad happened at all . I didn't even change my valve springs. I went from bone stock 206 duration and .420 lift to 237 duration and .474 lift. I was a kid & didn't really know all of what I know now, I wonder how much of what I know now is really necessary. But the engine I'm putting together soon I'll will be putting all of my knowledge into because there's a massive difference between a 320 hp daily driver & 600+ hp street / strip car. I think sometimes it's easy to go down the rabbit hole on some of the engine stuff but it's better to decipher through the info & make an educated decision as to if it's that big of a deal.
The black dry erase marker is a good trick. I like to do that with preload. I can see that the pushrods are on the tall side but the lifter will take that up. Better than too short.
Having my 383 done right now. Roller retro, Howard big mama, forged pistons, card, manifold etc. looking forward to seeing what it does. I’m hoping to get about 400hp out of the set up.
nice job . Q- what do you think of valve stem lash caps, you get more surface area for the roller tip . also how would you adjust the roller over stem off center back and forth , because it looked like it rolled center then forward only rolling on half the stem top.
Usually 440 rocker arm geometry and valvetrain alignment adjustment is with shims/offset-shims between the rocker pedestals and the rocker shaft to raise/relocate the pivot point, lash caps and by adjusting pushrod length. Some other methods involve machining/replacing/relocating the shaft pedestals.
I never knew how to set valve lash until this video. Always heard it was this magically difficult process that you just didn't want to get into. Thanks for lifting the veil on that topic. What about non-adjustable valve trains? How do those differ in build from adjustable? And what about changing rocker arm sizes? I assume there are some really extreme builds out there, but how far do you have to go before you get to crazy?
Most non-adjustable ones are set by the geometry and with hydraulic lifters. When you start changing rocker arm length with higher lift cams you have to spend more time making sure the pushrods are the right length and the rockers adjusted correctly.
How did you set up the adjuster screw on the rocker to measure the pushrods? I did mine by getting a full nut on the top. I ended up having the cup on the pushrod contacting the rocker. The way I have it set up looks very close to what you have
Hi Pete! im curious are you measurering all your pushrods before you buy it, and if so how you do this and is the procedure the same on all the engines. Thanks
I don't know where the "soak them overnight" came from, but it's old. My grandfather taught me years ago, and he's just "always done it." He started building race cars in the 50s, so he probably learned it in the early to mid 50s. So it's an old idea.
Whenever I here "we've always done it that way" I'm skeptical unless you know why. For all we know some racer drop his bolts in oil by accident and someone saw him take them out and thought it was a speed secret.
Lash is actually another word for spacing correct? I’ve never adjusted solid lifters but I’m assuming since there’s no hydraulic portion that you have to leave a small amount of space that would normally be taken up by the hydraulic portion of a hydraulic lifter?
the soaking thing. I've built my share of mopars and chevy's. I've never soaked my lifters. My dad didn't either. I can distinctly remember a couple of manuals from the 70's and 80's actually saying to NOT soak the lifters. I'm not sure why anyone would think that would help since it really doesn't do anything the oil pump won't do when you spin it up before first starting the car.
Hi David I'm building my first Mopar motor now. I've always had a Pontiac and mostly built Pontiac motors. And like a Mopar... the rockers on a Pontiac bolt down all the way. There's no rock bar... but all the way down just like a mopar does. And as u already know, there's typically no adjustment to be made. U just bolt them down & bolt the valve cover on just run it. No adjustment needed. But, I've had a couple of Pontiac motors where the lifter would not pump up and stop clattering because of a high lift cam. & That's why people soak them overnight. (to give em' head start on getting pumped up) But I like to go one step further by submerging them completely in oil in a container & then use a pushrod to pre-load or pre-pump them up. Get a lot more bubbled out of em' that way & they really do get much firmer. I've never had a lifter that wouldn't pump up after doing that. Now, I don't know what to do about this motor. I have same rockers as this video. But still scared not to or pre-pump. This video was completely un-familiar to me. I've never used a an adjustable rocker arm without a solid lift cam & a feeler gauge. Did that video seem normal to u?
Hey Pete, Thanks for some great videos. Question: -is the high flow oil pump for keeping the hydraulic lifters oiled? Im building a very similar engine with Hydraulic Roller cam, but was planning to go with stock oil pump/pan. Is that a bad idea? Cheers
Hello Pete. It is great watching your video's learned so much it hurts. I have a question of course. I currently am running 383 engine with cast iron 440 heads, hydraulic lifters utilizing Isky ductile iron adjustable rockers with 3/8 pushrods that are 8 1/4" long. I am wanting to change to roller rockers. I notice on here you are using 1.6 ratio rockers PCE261-1034. I was wondering should I stick with 1.5 ratio PCE261-1033 or go to 1.6 ratio? Also will I need new pushrods or can I use the ones I have, they are ball/cup.
You could switch to give you a little more air flow. Since the rockers are adjustable you won't need new pushrods, the hydraulic lifter will take up some slack.
@@PetesGarage Thanks for the advice. After talking to a few Mopar people I decided to stick with roller rockers of 1.5 ratio. I'm going to check pushrod length just to be safe. Since this is an engine already assembled I don't really want to remove the heads and clay the pistons to check clearance if I went with 1.6 ratio. Keep up the awesome work I enjoy the video's.
Seeing that it's so difficult to get parts now adays... It would be nice to know what rockers, shafts, hold downs, and adjusters were used. I apologize in advance, just looking for any kind of guidance while I'm putting my 451 stroker together ( plus, I'm using your videos as a model for my build.). 😁
The rocker bars do have a right left side. It's possible to have the hole pointing down as he said and still not have it lined up with oil passage correctly. He failed to mention this. I guess it might run ok if backwards. But why take chances. I would make sure oil holes are lined up correctly to get as much oil circulating to the top end as possible. It's not any harder to bolt them on correctly than it is to bolt them on backwards. Unless those are special modified heads to where u can't put the rocker bars on backwards. But I've never heard of that... I think he just made a BOO BOO. At least he didn't mention if they were oriented correctly. Maybe they were and he just didn't say anything about the possibility of bolting them backwards. I wonder if he caught that after he was done making this video. does anybody know? I'm curious.
Great comment. If it is on backwards the rockers do not line up right. I didn't mention it because it's pretty obvious, but I suppose someone could make that mistake anyways.
Came to this video to get rocker spacing clearances, thank you for providing that info, bought a set of Crane ductile iron adjustables for a 318 build, and sent them back as quality control was fairly bad as to bore center was off from rocker to rocker and they did not come with the springs (as the old 273's did back in the day and are no longer available anymore), nor shims for centering, went with Mancini rollers, very good and came with the shim package but not specs for spacing, one quick question, wouldn't you want to clean the lifters with mineral spirits while you had them disassembled? I would think by dipping them you would have mineral spirits inside the lifter that would not blow out with the air, and still have some in there when you dipped in oil, probably insignificant amount, but still my thoughts are to clean when they are apart, Thanks for the video, it was helpful
There could be a very small amount in there, but remember it has to be pushed in under pressure. The mineral spirits are to wash them off and provide a little lubrication
In answer to the question about soaking lifters. Back in the eighties I worked for Ryder Truck Rental and I seem to recall Detroit Diesel required cam followers (lifters) to be soaked in oil that was heated to a specific temperature (ie; 190 degrees F) for so many hours then allowed to cool before being installed. I was told the heated oil being then at a much lower viscosity would penetrate any and all parts of the lifter so that no part of it could be involved in a 'dry' start. I have no idea whether or not this is protocol nowadays. If there is no reason to hurry a build I've since that time called it 'insurance' to do this for any roller or hydraulic lifter. My $0.02
I haven't used them ever because of the bad reputation they have. They are cheap chinese junk. I never skimp on quality when it comes to valve train etc. I really hope that you don't have to put your hands back into that engine because of them rockers mate.
Im thinking about upgrading my chrysler 440 1971 engine with the Edelbrock Total Power Package 482 HP 440 Big Block Chrysler Top-End Engine Kit is it any good? and what type of lifters should i get, thanks!
@@PetesGarage Bassicly the only thing im going to keep stock is the bottom end exept the cam, im also thinking about 150-200hp of nitrous, Will It Work With A 800Cfm Carb?
Hi Pete, Very good instruction. I have just finished a 440 build using Trickflow 240 heads and Harland Sharp 1.6 rockers. When I start the engine it sounds like a bit of a faint typewriter. The sound never totally goes away but does get better. Do hydraulic rollers with the connecting bar make a little noise? Is that normal? I removed the valve covers and the rockers are not hitting the valve covers. When I removed the covers I can move some of the rockers by hand for the valves that are up. I'm not sure if I am compressing the hydraulic lifter a bit or if it's free play. Is it typical for a hydraulic lifter to lose some pressure after you shut the engine down? Could this movement in the rocker be a bit of normal lifter bleed down? Is a full turn preload pretty much standard? Can it be different depending on the rockers/cam etc.? Thanks for great videos. Your videos series has helped me with my 440 build.
@@PetesGarage will do. Do you have any recommendations for removing sealant on cylinder heads after removing valve covers? What is your best method for installing valve covers? I have watched you in the past using Right Stuff? Would you apply to both the valve covers and cylinder heads side of the valve cover gasket?
I readjusted the preload and still had noise. I think something went wrong cause I heard clattering in the valve train that did diminish. I thought it was lack of oil in the lifters. The lack of oil pressure turned out to be a bad new oil pump. I have oil pressure but now I have a miss and puffs of blue smoke when I hit the throttle. My concern it bent valve (s). How can I confirm if I have bent valves from incorrectly adjusting the preload. I used a chart and was careful but something is wrong. It is a new engine build but the smoke was not there before. Will a compression test be enough to tell me if the piston hit the valves? I didn’t even go a half turn but apparently the procedure was not correct. The valves were up and I can’t understand what went wrong. The oil pressure works fine now but I have a miss and puffs of smoke hitting the throttle. There is break-in oil in the engine still. I don’t have many minutes on the engine but this is the first sign of oil sign readjusting the preload. Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.
Pete, in cleaning in spirits,aren't t the internals dirty and don't get clean without pump up/pressure, and Why not use a pressure lube and spray springs during start up, to allow mating
Hi Pete from Austria, a little odd question on your channel, I own a Volvo Amazon 4 cyl. 123GT . I'd like to change the "normal" rocker arms to such as roller rockers. Recently I got to know that those of Mopar 340 or 440 should fit . Do you have got any idea whether that's the fact ? Thanks for your efforts and kind regards Wolfgang ( impressed of your presentation !!!)
@@PetesGarage ,,I'm afraid it was the wrong reply to my initial question i.e. Do you think that Mopar 340 or Mopar 440 shaft roller rockers fit to my Volvo 123GT B20 engine.A rumor is going about those roller rockers should fit to.
I hate to bug you again sir, but have a quick question about the rockers you and the way you shim them. Do any shims go between the large black spacers between the rockers?
Hi Pete I am putting on a kit on my 440 that I bought from eBay 1600$ kit uluminum heads red and blue rockers and high rise aluminum intake , I am noticing my push rods are in a angle from lifter thru the hole on the head to my rocker, is that the way it supposed to be, first time doing this but don’t look normal, can you please advise
@@fredvillareal3929 I had a big issue with those same rockers, PCE261.1034 from speed master. The ball end of my adjusters had a really sharp point and were binding at the pushrods. I had to remove the adjusters and smooth each one out with a light sandpaper until all of the sharp burrs were gone. It must've been a machining defect from the factory. They seem to be working now after all of this but I'll probably get new rocker arms. Maybe from 440 source.
@@PetesGarage what? How do they not bleed down without oil pressure? I've always had to use either a solid lifter and matching pushrod or an "adjustable" lifter like Hughes offers to check the geometry. Every hydraulic lifter I've seen bleeds down as you turn over the engine without oil pressure.
Hello, I'm using the same PCE rocker arms for my 383 dodge motor but having trouble finding the correct style and length pushrod. These rocker adjusters use a cup style pushrod,the length i need is an 8.3-8.5 inch or so but that size is hard to find. Is it possible to change the adjusters to somehow make them work?
Hey Pete-how about a quick video explanation on the history of lifters? I looked around a bit and couldn't find any good explanations. I'm sure there was an evolution from solid to hydraulic lifters and there must be a benefit to them. But it seems like a hydraulic lifter is exactly the OPPOSITE of what you would want in a valve-train....a 'shock-absorber' of sorts. It would seem that an bit of 'give' that a lifter offers would be detrimental to very specific requirements for valves to open and close according to the wishes of the camshaft. Thanks-Steve
I need some help and I hope you can provide me with a answer I currently have a 440 dart tunnel ram, the car seems to have a crazy miss in the engine. It's hard to explain. Anyway I didn't build the motor my uncle did who has been building molars for over forty years. The engine has a purple shaft not sure of the details on the cam shaft other then I was told it's a minor purple shaft. The car had this kinda miss when I first got it. It had two Edelbroch 750 on it and a stock converter. With a magneto dist. I first took out the converter and replaced it with a 3400 stall speed no change. I replaced the plugs a completely rebuilt the carbs. No change. I installed all new gaskets ,intake, plenum, carbs and so on. I checked the timing both at idle and 3000 rpm s, 10 degrees at idle advanced and 34 degrees at around 3000 rpm s. I also checked for vacuum leaks didn't find any by using propane and a hose. I replaced the two carbs with two new edelbrock 600 no change. Checked fuel pressure 5lbs. Checked vacuum 15 at idle and close to 30" at around 3000 rims. I replaced the entire ignition system, installed a msd hei distributor and spark box changed plugs and wire no change. This 440 has rpm edelbrock aluminum heads. Hydraulic lifters standard push rods. It feels like a miss at 1000 rpm s but when it gets up to around 1800 it feels better but then acts up again. I took a temperature reading on all the headers all the headers read around 250 to 350 in temp it varies except for cylinder 7,8 the read much higher. Around 500 degrees. I decided it's something in the valve train so I bought heartland roller rockers I need to change the push rods to a cup type and I'm being asked to provide a length for the push rods. I was given some info on how to obtain this information but it wasn't clear. So I'm stuck now and have to pull the intake off again. Do you know the process of getting the correct measurement? I'm exhausted from this issue and hoping the roller rockers clears up this engine issue. Thank you . T .G.
I have a 440 motor 30 over with cast iron heads with a solid flat tappet cam 1.5 roller crane rockers it’s pushing 595 hp .why is your motor pushing 550 hp
Maybe soaking the lifters came around from the time many people didnt know to prime the oil system. and instead they thought they should do that to help when they would install the engine and cold start it.
Hey Pete been watching your videos on the build and they are excellent. I have Indy 440 -1 aluminum heads on my Mega block, can you tell me what you would suggest for the torque on my rocker shafts? I have ARP studs in everything. I read somewhere online they say 25 to 30ft lbs. sound right? Indy is kind of subject when I call them I always get a desk clerk that has to ask others and then comes back sounding umm well not very sure…Appreciate your input gonna install tonight. Thanks
What helped me the most with doing this is EOIC method. Look that up. (Exhaust open intake closed) The opposite is IOEC If you do it this way your accuracy will be way up on adjustments. This is more power. Just get the slack or play out and then do the extra full turn. I used to know a guy that would adjust them while the engine was running by sound, but there is too much noise going on from a loud engine in my opinion.
Hi Pete, just got done installing a set of rockers on my 440 that look identical to yours(Mancini Brand). I went with your .010 clearance suggestion but is it .010 or .020 total? When I ran my feeler gauge on the .010" everywhere I could I was getting .010 to .011 comfortably between any combination. But should I be trying to use two .010"s or a .020 to measure for total? You say to check either side for .010 clearance. The way I look at this is whatever is going on between the hold downs is a single unit, it shouldn't matter where you take that measurement as long as you have X total clearance(.010 in my case) and the roller tip is centered on the valve tip. Does that make sense?
@@PetesGarage I was talking about the rocker clearance side to side as they sit on the hold downs. No pushrods attached. In the video you explain to check the left and right side for .010.
Hey Pete...subscriber here. I followed your build and copied many of your "tech tips" motor is just fine after a few months now. But I'm eating torque converters left and right. Do u have a particular favorite brand? I broke a Summit brand, then a B&M brand, and now the longest lasting one - a Hughes brand converter. I keep stepping up in price thinking I'll get a better one by spending more money. Because, well -I'm cheap. The motor is nothing radical. Maybe, and I'm just guessing, around 500 horses. Nothing that would warrant so many converters. I can understand the $250 converter breaking and even the B&M. (heard bad things about those B&M's) but I dropped some real coin on this Hughes converter and it's done now too. I would really appreciate your input. Hope your well and thanks for all your posts and replies. Stay safe man, and have a great day, week, month, ect. heh heh
Hey Pete, thanks for advise, I checked the shaft and it was still good and straight. Went with a converter from FTI this time and had zero issues after a year now. I guess I must've missed some debris (metal shavings) when going back through it or l got a couple of bad converters. It's not a huge power house motor or anything. Shouldn't have so much trouble with a converter. Anyway, thanks again. Hope your well during this covid crisis.
Hi Pete I am putting together my 440 engine, I bought a kit from eBay 1600$ kit aluminum heads, red and blue rocker kit , aluminum high rise intake, I am noticing my push rods are in a angle from lifter, thru the hole in the head, to the rocker arm, please help me I am confused, a few are straight and some are in a angle
The rods from the lifter to the rockers are slightly angled going thru the head , can’t straighten completely cause rods will rub the head , being in a slight angle is that normal
I sent a question on another video you have. Are the stock rockers on a 440 wedge motor non adjustable? Those you have are adjustable. The motor builder says he checked the push rod length and it was okay. My issue is getting so hot I can not let it run long enough to break in the new motor. The plug boots met and fall apart. Before the thermostat opens then it opens and temp goes right back up . So I shut it off. Read my other post to you. Im baffled. Now I see your adjustable rockers and wonder why this motor does not have them.
@@PetesGarage been playing with it this morning. No air in system it has a evap tank and thermostat kicks open and immediately cools it, then right back up. After much asking I think its valve timing and the motor builder did not shim the rockers and set them correctly. It seem like valves hanging open. Thank for your thoughts The carb has 72 and 86 and seems to be fine. I can get timing set but thats it. Then its melting plug boots. Im at 8degrees timing.then its too hot to work on.
@@PetesGarage Im leaning now at the engine builder may not have installed the correct pushrod length. He installed stock length push rods with non adjustable rockers and not shimmed properly. I think it needs adjustable rockers installed and adjusted. It seems to me the valves are hanging open and flames are going into the headers do to valve hanging open.
Can anyone help me. I have a 440 that I'm installing heartland sharp roller rockers. The rockers have a ball end and the adjustable push rod has ball end. I can set the pushrod ball end to rocker ball end. But I can't turn the motor over a couple times to see if the rocker lines up properly on the valve stem. Any suggestions? I can't find a adjustable pushrod with the funnel top.
Your mineral spirited just took or dissolved any oil that was in the bearings and that 2 seconds you dipped them in oil did nothing for the bearings in the roller. Roller lifters need soaked for a while and it has nothing to do with the hydraulic mechanism.
@@PetesGarage No kidding. It’s not oil, it dissolves any lubricant that’s in the rollers. Soaking the lifter for ten seconds isn’t lubricating the bearings.
71 Charger, SE, 383HP WP29N... Torr Red...Hideaway headlights, Rallye dash, Slap Stick, Bucket seats. I've owned it for 35 years. Pulling out the numbers matching engine to rebuild it stock, and then crate it. I have a 1969 440 that I want to go bat shit crazy with... 1,000 horse power, 1,000 pounds feet of torque with a 671 blower... I am wondering if you have a build plan for someone like me... I'm old now, want to go out with a bang!! Ha haaaa.... Looking forward to your answer... Ol Sarge...
Roller tip rocker arms are without doubt the single most ridiculous thing ever put on a street motor. Similar priced, adjustable ductile iron bronze bushed hard chromed shaft rockers are available for all Mopar shaft mount V8s. They're superior becuase the large radius of the ductile iron rocker tip wipes across the valve tip. Conversely the the tiny roller on roller tip rocker arms has a surface loading intensity multiplying effect due to the much smaller radius of the roller when compared to the wiping pad of a non roller rocker arm tip. Why these truly stupid rocker tips were ever put on a sub .750'" lift application is completely beyond my comprehension. The other thing is they don't make any more power (or reduce heat) and add more moving parts on a motor where durability is more important than looks! That said I have them on a motor of mine because there is no other option when converting from stud to shaft mount on some motors.
Hey P I have a question I love your show and it's very informative my question is this if I'm using a high-lift cam hydraulic non roller and Edelbrock RPM heads with no work done meaning having the block shaved or the heads in the paperwork for the Edelbrock heads it says that I can use a 9.125 length push rod so length change on your engine because of the use of the roller cam
I have some of the same opinions as you but something I have wondered and would like your thoughts on. Have you considered this? What about valve guide wear and side loading? I tend to think the roller tips would help on this vs sweeping style even on a street motor. Seems it would place less stress on the wear prone guide even if its concentrated/increased on the hardened roller and valve tip. Thoughts?
You have 2 roller rockers not in The middel.wath ai can se! Like you movise.Have even 440 sixpack Weiand tunnel ram intake.Super stock Heads wadge portad flows 315cfm ( 0.600 lift).Roller cam Tti heads.10.3 komp.Carboretors are even ported no chock.Custom (metringblock) The middel fugger.Have even The carburators inner and The Outside can ChangeThe jetts.The Engin rans fantastisk.Have even PRO shot fogger.Have not test The fogger get.Max 150Hp.Gonna start att weery lou jets 20Hp.Wath dou you gess The HP in thes Engine.Can i have 600Hp.Sorry spell like hell.Have even Overdrive GV.Rear End 3 member have The strongest 8 3/4 (4.10) Have stall 2500.Wath dou you tink i will dou one The stripp.Have Nice Day...Challenger SE1970 Weery solid.Ale Sheat metall orginal Rost fri 100%.Forgoth have Caltrack + monelefs and calverts.Street Car
I am getting ready to build a 440 for my 72 dart and I can't express how valuable your videos are to me. Thank you very much for taking the time to go over this build and I look forward to your future videos!
Thank you very much, good luck with your Dart
Thanks for the great video. I worked at Chrysler engineering in the engine lab and enjoy a walk down memory lane. Hired in 1969.
That's awesome....thanks for sharing that
B3 Racing Engines has an amazing article on the shortcomings of Mopar shaft rocker setup and how it effects the geometry. Definitely worth a read for anyone building a Mopar, small or big block.
wow now thats what i am talkig about thanks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
back in the early 1980's we woulld take off the rocker pedastils , like a max wedge stage 1. and adjust, very time consuming , alot of machining .
I am working to get some of mine sorted out. When you do what Pete did, see how large the path is across the valve tip and understand what that really means, it is worth the time to get it straightened out. I am running Harland Sharps and have .120" across the tip face. Should be able to reduce that by over 50% moving the rocker shaft up and towards the intake.
you may want to try a set of Lash Caps for the valve stem face. there are different sizes ,diameters ,thickness .and manufacturs now. where before it was just mopar.
also like the max wedge stage 1 head , with the pedastils removed we were able to shim up the rocker stand blocks , or mill the blocks down more, also used lash caps . custum pushrods , recheck lift specs , rocker ratio etc , old school stuff ,
Another great video Pete. Your constant emphasis on FM and cleanliness cannot be overstated. Can't wait to see and hear the completed engine running on the dyno.
P.S. I enjoyed the torque video, very informative experiment and clearly explained. Thanks again.
Thank you very much Stan
i used to make roller rockers and the best cleaning is all the lifters into a plastic bucket with kerosene and some magnets under the bucket some vibrating would be good = micro hardened steel dust sticks to the new processed parts ! some times rested the bucket against a air compressor and saw a better result on the magnets ! the vibrating - done individually in small plastic containers ! soaking hydraulic lifters for 24 hours is to remove air pockets as oil and gravity will push out all the bubbles inside the lifter - i have heard these lifters run dry on start up with out oil pump priming = so good luck and what ever works for you ! pedal to the metal !
That is awesome Ronnie. I will mention your suggestion in a future video if you don't mind.
Damn, wished i lived out in buffalo, i would love to have you rebuild my motor, very meticulous builder! Love your videos Pete.
Thank you my friend Semper Fidelis!
Great stuff. Thank you Pete.
Thank you my friend
Thank you !!! You saved my day !!!!
Glad I could help!
Loving this Thanks Pete
Glad you enjoyed it
Need a bigger bucket to clean all at once great video interesting thank you Pete
For sure, thanks Ron
When using alum heads always use studs to hold down the rocker arm rail.One may strip the heads very easy.I see it almost every year.
Great tip, thank you
You are welcome ! From a old builder (mid. 60's) I spent 2 years in Malvern Pa. My teacher was the best !
Pete I love the 440 BBC (i have three) I appreciate your videos they are awesome!! Im building two 440/512's this winter for my boat!! I hate to say so but i agree completely with the comments about PRCOMP rockers.. I didnt know I had them on my motor until I lost one it was not old and not abused, they fail ALOT.. Comp Cams Pro Magnum STEEL ROLLERs are $700, come in 1.5 or 1.6, and they are IMHO the best value rocker for the 440 hands down, maybe the greatest roller rocker on the market honestly. They are the same weight as aluminum however they have ZERO needle bearings and are USA made and extremely high quality which is needed for the lift and spring pressure your running.. Its worth replacing the pushrods and for a few hundred more pony up for the COMP CAM PRO MAGNUMs..
Thank you Tony, I will look into it and let everyone know what I find
You should also do a video on correct engine break-in procedures, thanks for your great vids!
I will during the dyno test.
I put 1 cam in on a rainy dark night back in 1997 in high school with my dad's mechanic friend. We didn't pre oil anything except moly lube on the lobes & I asked him do I need to break it in he said no, just drive it so in the morning I started it and went off to work. Nothing bad happened at all . I didn't even change my valve springs. I went from bone stock 206 duration and .420 lift to 237 duration and .474 lift. I was a kid & didn't really know all of what I know now, I wonder how much of what I know now is really necessary. But the engine I'm putting together soon I'll will be putting all of my knowledge into because there's a massive difference between a 320 hp daily driver & 600+ hp street / strip car. I think sometimes it's easy to go down the rabbit hole on some of the engine stuff but it's better to decipher through the info & make an educated decision as to if it's that big of a deal.
There are so many reasons why things went right back in '97, and so many reasons why they could go wrong now.
@@PetesGarage yep that's very true. Oil to start with.
Pete is awesome 🙂👍🏽
Thank you Paul
The black dry erase marker is a good trick. I like to do that with preload. I can see that the pushrods are on the tall side but the lifter will take that up. Better than too short.
Thanks for the comment Nic
Great detailed instructions
Thank you!
Looking forward to seeing the dyno sheet on this build.
Getting really close now
Having my 383 done right now. Roller retro, Howard big mama, forged pistons, card, manifold etc. looking forward to seeing what it does. I’m hoping to get about 400hp out of the set up.
Sounds like you may
nice job . Q- what do you think of valve stem lash caps, you get more surface area for the roller tip . also how would you adjust the roller over stem off center back and forth , because it looked like it rolled center then forward only rolling on half the stem top.
Usually 440 rocker arm geometry and valvetrain alignment adjustment is with shims/offset-shims between the rocker pedestals and the rocker shaft to raise/relocate the pivot point, lash caps and by adjusting pushrod length. Some other methods involve machining/replacing/relocating the shaft pedestals.
Great comment, thank you for answering
thank you patw52pb1 , thank you Pete
Thank you!!!
You're welcome!
I never knew how to set valve lash until this video. Always heard it was this magically difficult process that you just didn't want to get into. Thanks for lifting the veil on that topic. What about non-adjustable valve trains? How do those differ in build from adjustable? And what about changing rocker arm sizes? I assume there are some really extreme builds out there, but how far do you have to go before you get to crazy?
Most non-adjustable ones are set by the geometry and with hydraulic lifters. When you start changing rocker arm length with higher lift cams you have to spend more time making sure the pushrods are the right length and the rockers adjusted correctly.
I full turn is excessive, half turn,
I love this channel! Awesome videos!
Thanks my friend
How did you set up the adjuster screw on the rocker to measure the pushrods? I did mine by getting a full nut on the top. I ended up having the cup on the pushrod contacting the rocker. The way I have it set up looks very close to what you have
I did the set up for hydraulic lifters
Nice!!
Hi Pete! im curious are you measurering all your pushrods before you buy it, and if so how you do this and is the procedure the same on all the engines. Thanks
I have a video about measuring push rod length.
ok i will check it ou t .... Thanks
9 Thumbs down... WTF , Great video Pete.
I know...what can I say
I don't know where the "soak them overnight" came from, but it's old. My grandfather taught me years ago, and he's just "always done it." He started building race cars in the 50s, so he probably learned it in the early to mid 50s. So it's an old idea.
Whenever I here "we've always done it that way" I'm skeptical unless you know why. For all we know some racer drop his bolts in oil by accident and someone saw him take them out and thought it was a speed secret.
Watch my other videos. I take everything apart and measure, including brand new oil pumps.
isnt it better to use a feeler guage vs the hand method to adjust the lash?
Yes, on solid lifters. Hydraulic do not have any lash.
Lash is actually another word for spacing correct?
I’ve never adjusted solid lifters but I’m assuming since there’s no hydraulic portion that you have to leave a small amount of space that would normally be taken up by the hydraulic portion of a hydraulic lifter?
the soaking thing. I've built my share of mopars and chevy's. I've never soaked my lifters. My dad didn't either. I can distinctly remember a couple of manuals from the 70's and 80's actually saying to NOT soak the lifters. I'm not sure why anyone would think that would help since it really doesn't do anything the oil pump won't do when you spin it up before first starting the car.
Hi David I'm building my first Mopar motor now. I've always had a Pontiac and mostly built Pontiac motors. And like a Mopar... the rockers on a Pontiac bolt down all the way. There's no rock bar... but all the way down just like a mopar does. And as u already know, there's typically no adjustment to be made. U just bolt them down & bolt the valve cover on just run it. No adjustment needed. But, I've had a couple of Pontiac motors where the lifter would not pump up and stop clattering because of a high lift cam. & That's why people soak them overnight. (to give em' head start on getting pumped up) But I like to go one step further by submerging them completely in oil in a container & then use a pushrod to pre-load or pre-pump them up. Get a lot more bubbled out of em' that way & they really do get much firmer. I've never had a lifter that wouldn't pump up after doing that. Now, I don't know what to do about this motor. I have same rockers as this video. But still scared not to or pre-pump. This video was completely un-familiar to me. I've never used a an adjustable rocker arm without a solid lift cam & a feeler gauge. Did that video seem normal to u?
I agree, I just wonder where it came from
Hey Pete,
Thanks for some great videos.
Question:
-is the high flow oil pump for keeping the hydraulic lifters oiled?
Im building a very similar engine with Hydraulic Roller cam, but was planning to go with stock oil pump/pan. Is that a bad idea?
Cheers
With a 7 quart pan it's important to keep the oil flowing. A high volume pump is not a huge price difference so it's worth it.
@@PetesGarage Thanks. But is a 7 quart pan/ high volume pump a must when going with hydraulic roller lifters?
Loved the video. I'm just about to install my new rockers on my 440, what oil do you recommend using?
I use Penn Grade 20W50
Hello Pete. It is great watching your video's learned so much it hurts. I have a question of course. I currently am running 383 engine with cast iron 440 heads, hydraulic lifters utilizing Isky ductile iron adjustable rockers with 3/8 pushrods that are 8 1/4" long. I am wanting to change to roller rockers. I notice on here you are using 1.6 ratio rockers PCE261-1034. I was wondering should I stick with 1.5 ratio PCE261-1033 or go to 1.6 ratio? Also will I need new pushrods or can I use the ones I have, they are ball/cup.
You could switch to give you a little more air flow. Since the rockers are adjustable you won't need new pushrods, the hydraulic lifter will take up some slack.
@@PetesGarage Thanks for the advice. After talking to a few Mopar people I decided to stick with roller rockers of 1.5 ratio. I'm going to check pushrod length just to be safe. Since this is an engine already assembled I don't really want to remove the heads and clay the pistons to check clearance if I went with 1.6 ratio. Keep up the awesome work I enjoy the video's.
Hi Pete, at what point would you consider adding pushrod oiling and if used would you add oil restrictors to the heads or pushrods.
If it were a racing engine that was at risk for low oil distribution. I'm not a huge fan of oil restrictors.
What brand rockers and push rods ? It would be nice to name the brands 👍
I do not promote any brands
Seeing that it's so difficult to get parts now adays... It would be nice to know what rockers, shafts, hold downs, and adjusters were used. I apologize in advance, just looking for any kind of guidance while I'm putting my 451 stroker together ( plus, I'm using your videos as a model for my build.). 😁
You told us what brand of cylinder heads you used
@@mitchellferre1652 EXACTLY
Just so very helpful explained important details thankyou
You're very welcome!
Have you ever had an issue going a full turn on valve lash if it was a hydraulic non roller cam?
No
The rocker bars do have a right left side. It's possible to have the hole pointing down as he said and still not have it lined up with oil passage correctly. He failed to mention this. I guess it might run ok if backwards. But why take chances. I would make sure oil holes are lined up correctly to get as much oil circulating to the top end as possible. It's not any harder to bolt them on correctly than it is to bolt them on backwards. Unless those are special modified heads to where u can't put the rocker bars on backwards. But I've never heard of that... I think he just made a BOO BOO. At least he didn't mention if they were oriented correctly. Maybe they were and he just didn't say anything about the possibility of bolting them backwards. I wonder if he caught that after he was done making this video. does anybody know? I'm curious.
Great comment. If it is on backwards the rockers do not line up right. I didn't mention it because it's pretty obvious, but I suppose someone could make that mistake anyways.
Came to this video to get rocker spacing clearances, thank you for providing that info, bought a set of Crane ductile iron adjustables for a 318 build, and sent them back as quality control was fairly bad as to bore center was off from rocker to rocker and they did not come with the springs (as the old 273's did back in the day and are no longer available anymore), nor shims for centering, went with Mancini rollers, very good and came with the shim package but not specs for spacing, one quick question, wouldn't you want to clean the lifters with mineral spirits while you had them disassembled? I would think by dipping them you would have mineral spirits inside the lifter that would not blow out with the air, and still have some in there when you dipped in oil, probably insignificant amount, but still my thoughts are to clean when they are apart, Thanks for the video, it was helpful
There could be a very small amount in there, but remember it has to be pushed in under pressure. The mineral spirits are to wash them off and provide a little lubrication
Hey Pete, which rockers were these?
Pro Comp
One other thing to check is the rocker arm to spring clearence ,some do touch and that cannot happen.
Absolutely true
If they are cheap Procomp or Speed Master rockers I would be a little nervous about using them.
In answer to the question about soaking lifters. Back in the eighties I worked for Ryder Truck Rental and I seem to recall Detroit Diesel required cam followers (lifters) to be soaked in oil that was heated to a specific temperature (ie; 190 degrees F) for so many hours then allowed to cool before being installed. I was told the heated oil being then at a much lower viscosity would penetrate any and all parts of the lifter so that no part of it could be involved in a 'dry' start. I have no idea whether or not this is protocol nowadays. If there is no reason to hurry a build I've since that time called it 'insurance' to do this for any roller or hydraulic lifter. My $0.02
Great comment Tim. That may be a good process when you can't prime the engine by turning the pump.
I understand. Have you ever had a problem with them?
I haven't used them ever because of the bad reputation they have. They are cheap chinese junk. I never skimp on quality when it comes to valve train etc. I really hope that you don't have to put your hands back into that engine because of them rockers mate.
@ Tim Hammett I didn't even mention anything to do with what your talking about. But thanks for the reply.
Are these PCE roller rocker arms? I'm about to buy a set for my 383 dodge
Yes
Any issues or breakage with these rockers ?
@@mitchellferre1652 I have not installed mine yet, but I will soon .
@@eddiegarcia9657 nice, please let us know how they work
@@mitchellferre1652 Will do. I ordered them awhile back and they look like they are good quality in the box but we shall see.
Im thinking about upgrading my chrysler 440 1971 engine with the Edelbrock Total Power Package 482 HP 440 Big Block Chrysler Top-End Engine Kit is it any good? and what type of lifters should i get, thanks!
Well.....there's more to upgrade than just the top end. A decent cam will help providing your crank and pistons can handle it.
@@PetesGarage Bassicly the only thing im going to keep stock is the bottom end exept the cam, im also thinking about 150-200hp of nitrous, Will It Work With A 800Cfm Carb?
Hi Pete,
Very good instruction. I have just finished a 440 build using Trickflow 240 heads and Harland Sharp 1.6 rockers. When I start the engine it sounds like a bit of a faint typewriter. The sound never totally goes away but does get better. Do hydraulic rollers with the connecting bar make a little noise? Is that normal?
I removed the valve covers and the rockers are not hitting the valve covers.
When I removed the covers I can move some of the rockers by hand for the valves that are up. I'm not sure if I am compressing the hydraulic lifter a bit or if it's free play.
Is it typical for a hydraulic lifter to lose some pressure after you shut the engine down? Could this movement in the rocker be a bit of normal lifter bleed down?
Is a full turn preload pretty much standard? Can it be different depending on the rockers/cam etc.?
Thanks for great videos. Your videos series has helped me with my 440 build.
A full turn is a bit much. I go a half turn max. Try resetting and try again.
@@PetesGarage will do. Do you have any recommendations for removing sealant on cylinder heads after removing valve covers? What is your best method for installing valve covers? I have watched you in the past using Right Stuff? Would you apply to both the valve covers and cylinder heads side of the valve cover gasket?
I readjusted the preload and still had noise. I think something went wrong cause I heard clattering in the valve train that did diminish. I thought it was lack of oil in the lifters. The lack of oil pressure turned out to be a bad new oil pump. I have oil pressure but now I have a miss and puffs of blue smoke when I hit the throttle.
My concern it bent valve (s). How can I confirm if I have bent valves from incorrectly adjusting the preload. I used a chart and was careful but something is wrong. It is a new engine build but the smoke was not there before.
Will a compression test be enough to tell me if the piston hit the valves? I didn’t even go a half turn but apparently the procedure was not correct. The valves were up and I can’t understand what went wrong. The oil pressure works fine now but I have a miss and puffs of smoke hitting the throttle. There is break-in oil in the engine still. I don’t have many minutes on the engine but this is the first sign of oil sign readjusting the preload. Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.
Unfortunately it's elbow grease and solvents.
A compression test can detect a stuck valve.
what Brand are you using? usually the cost i see on internet sites is outrageous for making roller lifters fit Block
Those are Elgin roller lifters $400
Thanks, I am so glad they are made, I hope they make them for Small Block L.A. engines too! i will check
Hey Pete. Just wondering what make cam and hyd. Roller lifters you used in this build. Awesome Channel my friend!
Comp cam CRB3 XR292HR10 and Elgin HL-4014S lifters
Pete, in cleaning in spirits,aren't t the internals dirty and don't get clean without pump up/pressure, and Why not use a pressure lube and spray springs during start up, to allow mating
The internals are clean after machining
Hi Pete from Austria,
a little odd question on your channel, I own a Volvo Amazon 4 cyl. 123GT . I'd like to change the "normal" rocker arms to such as roller rockers. Recently I got to know that those of Mopar 340 or 440 should fit .
Do you have got any idea whether that's the fact ?
Thanks for your efforts and kind regards
Wolfgang ( impressed of your presentation !!!)
You could make it fit, but you'll have to change the transmission too
@@PetesGarage thank you for response. Changing transmission what do you mean in detail? Regards Wolfgang
One that will match the bellhousing for the new engine
@@PetesGarage ,,I'm afraid it was the wrong reply to my initial question i.e.
Do you think that Mopar 340 or Mopar 440 shaft roller rockers fit to my Volvo 123GT B20 engine.A rumor is going about those roller rockers should fit to.
Are those Mancini rockers with billet hold downs, I'm building a similar build with the same heads on a 440?
These are ProComp. Mancini are great!
I hate to bug you again sir, but have a quick question about the rockers you and the way you shim them. Do any shims go between the large black spacers between the rockers?
Yes, to get the rockers centered on the valves
@@PetesGarage thanks again, great information on this channel!
Hi Pete I am putting on a kit on my 440 that I bought from eBay 1600$ kit uluminum heads red and blue rockers and high rise aluminum intake , I am noticing my push rods are in a angle from lifter thru the hole on the head to my rocker, is that the way it supposed to be, first time doing this but don’t look normal, can you please advise
@@fredvillareal3929 I had a big issue with those same rockers, PCE261.1034 from speed master. The ball end of my adjusters had a really sharp point and were binding at the pushrods. I had to remove the adjusters and smooth each one out with a light sandpaper until all of the sharp burrs were gone. It must've been a machining defect from the factory. They seem to be working now after all of this but I'll probably get new rocker arms. Maybe from 440 source.
Pete is there any way would show how you measured the pushrods.
I think I can squeak that in somehow
x2 - thanks, Pete.
What keeps the lifters pumped up as you are turning the engine by hand W/O oil pressure ??????
Once they are pumped up They will stay that way. I don't turn the engine over aver pre-lubing the system
@@PetesGarage what? How do they not bleed down without oil pressure? I've always had to use either a solid lifter and matching pushrod or an "adjustable" lifter like Hughes offers to check the geometry. Every hydraulic lifter I've seen bleeds down as you turn over the engine without oil pressure.
is it true that the springs need to be changed after initial break in /.? Thanks
Not changed, but inners removed for solid tappet break in
Hello, I'm using the same PCE rocker arms for my 383 dodge motor but having trouble finding the correct style and length pushrod. These rocker adjusters use a cup style pushrod,the length i need is an 8.3-8.5 inch or so but that size is hard to find. Is it possible to change the adjusters to somehow make them work?
Did you check 440source?
@@PetesGarage oh wow forgot about them, looks like they have what I need. Thanks for the help sir!!
Hey Pete-how about a quick video explanation on the history of lifters? I looked around a bit and couldn't find any good explanations. I'm sure there was an evolution from solid to hydraulic lifters and there must be a benefit to them. But it seems like a hydraulic lifter is exactly the OPPOSITE of what you would want in a valve-train....a 'shock-absorber' of sorts. It would seem that an bit of 'give' that a lifter offers would be detrimental to very specific requirements for valves to open and close according to the wishes of the camshaft. Thanks-Steve
That is a great idea, I'll add that to the list. Thanks!
Look into FREE VALVES! Utube Koenigsegg freevalves. No need for timing chain, camshaft, lifters. Unlimited LSA! Make V-tec laughable.
Do these roller rockers have needle bearings
If I recall they do
I need some help and I hope you can provide me with a answer I currently have a 440 dart tunnel ram, the car seems to have a crazy miss in the engine. It's hard to explain. Anyway I didn't build the motor my uncle did who has been building molars for over forty years. The engine has a purple shaft not sure of the details on the cam shaft other then I was told it's a minor purple shaft. The car had this kinda miss when I first got it. It had two Edelbroch 750 on it and a stock converter. With a magneto dist. I first took out the converter and replaced it with a 3400 stall speed no change. I replaced the plugs a completely rebuilt the carbs. No change. I installed all new gaskets ,intake, plenum, carbs and so on. I checked the timing both at idle and 3000 rpm s, 10 degrees at idle advanced and 34 degrees at around 3000 rpm s. I also checked for vacuum leaks didn't find any by using propane and a hose. I replaced the two carbs with two new edelbrock 600 no change. Checked fuel pressure 5lbs. Checked vacuum 15 at idle and close to 30" at around 3000 rims. I replaced the entire ignition system, installed a msd hei distributor and spark box changed plugs and wire no change. This 440 has rpm edelbrock aluminum heads. Hydraulic lifters standard push rods. It feels like a miss at 1000 rpm s but when it gets up to around 1800 it feels better but then acts up again. I took a temperature reading on all the headers all the headers read around 250 to 350 in temp it varies except for cylinder 7,8 the read much higher. Around 500 degrees. I decided it's something in the valve train so I bought heartland roller rockers I need to change the push rods to a cup type and I'm being asked to provide a length for the push rods. I was given some info on how to obtain this information but it wasn't clear. So I'm stuck now and have to pull the intake off again. Do you know the process of getting the correct measurement? I'm exhausted from this issue and hoping the roller rockers clears up this engine issue. Thank you . T .G.
I do have a video about measuring for pushrods. A tunnel ram changes fuel velocity, the cam may not be right for it.
So did you ever do a compression test or cyl leak down. I do that before changing out good parts.
i think Chrysler had a do it your self push rod . with the socket not installed. and you cut to length.
That may be for a stock rocker arm.
Hey Pete. what brand of roller rockers are these?
Pro Comp
What brand lifters are those pete?
Those are ProComp. I've never had a problem with them
I have a 440 motor 30 over with cast iron heads with a solid flat tappet cam 1.5 roller crane rockers it’s pushing 595 hp .why is your motor pushing 550 hp
It could all be in the compression ratios, fuel, pistons. The goal was 500
Because the trick flow heads valve seats aren't concentric, the valves leak and the guide clearences are tight would be my guess.
Maybe soaking the lifters came around from the time many people didnt know to prime the oil system. and instead they thought they should do that to help when they would install the engine and cold start it.
That does make sense.
Well I grew up on a farm and thats what my Grand Father taught me. Farmers do all kinds off ass backwards stuff.
Hi Pete.
Hey Okie
Hey Pete been watching your videos on the build and they are excellent. I have Indy 440 -1 aluminum heads on my Mega block, can you tell me what you would suggest for the torque on my rocker shafts? I have ARP studs in everything. I read somewhere online they say 25 to 30ft lbs. sound right? Indy is kind of subject when I call them I always get a desk clerk that has to ask others and then comes back sounding umm well not very sure…Appreciate your input gonna install tonight. Thanks
The torque is different in aluminum heads. 25 to 30 is for iron heads. Stay closer to 25 for aluminum
So when setting lash just put the cylinder at TDCC and tighten the rocker arm until it stops wiggling and then go a half turn?
Well, at TDC the valves are not really closed. You have to go by when each valve closes, then adjust the rockers.
What helped me the most with doing this is EOIC method. Look that up.
(Exhaust open intake closed)
The opposite is IOEC
If you do it this way your accuracy will be way up on adjustments. This is more power.
Just get the slack or play out and then do the extra full turn.
I used to know a guy that would adjust them while the engine was running by sound, but there is too much noise going on from a loud engine in my opinion.
Hi Pete, just got done installing a set of rockers on my 440 that look identical to yours(Mancini Brand). I went with your .010 clearance suggestion but is it .010 or .020 total? When I ran my feeler gauge on the .010" everywhere I could I was getting .010 to .011 comfortably between any combination. But should I be trying to use two .010"s or a .020 to measure for total? You say to check either side for .010 clearance.
The way I look at this is whatever is going on between the hold downs is a single unit, it shouldn't matter where you take that measurement as long as you have X total clearance(.010 in my case) and the roller tip is centered on the valve tip.
Does that make sense?
It makes sense, but you only need lash for solid lifters
@@PetesGarage I was talking about the rocker clearance side to side as they sit on the hold downs. No pushrods attached. In the video you explain to check the left and right side for .010.
What rocker arm set is that? How do you like them?
They are ProComp....they work pretty good
Hey Pete...subscriber here. I followed your build and copied many of your "tech tips" motor is just fine after a few months now. But I'm eating torque converters left and right. Do u have a particular favorite brand? I broke a Summit brand, then a B&M brand, and now the longest lasting one - a Hughes brand converter. I keep stepping up in price thinking I'll get a better one by spending more money. Because, well -I'm cheap. The motor is nothing radical. Maybe, and I'm just guessing, around 500 horses. Nothing that would warrant so many converters. I can understand the $250 converter breaking and even the B&M. (heard bad things about those B&M's) but I dropped some real coin on this Hughes converter and it's done now too. I would really appreciate your input. Hope your well and thanks for all your posts and replies. Stay safe man, and have a great day, week, month, ect. heh heh
Did you check to make sure the transmission shaft runout to the crank. Sounds like it's not straight
Thanks I did just go through it but I'll check again when I pull it back apart. It was straight the last time I went through it.
Hey Pete, thanks for advise, I checked the shaft and it was still good and straight. Went with a converter from FTI this time and had zero issues after a year now. I guess I must've missed some debris (metal shavings) when going back through it or l got a couple of bad converters. It's not a huge power house motor or anything. Shouldn't have so much trouble with a converter. Anyway, thanks again. Hope your well during this covid crisis.
Hi Pete I am putting together my 440 engine, I bought a kit from eBay 1600$ kit aluminum heads, red and blue rocker kit , aluminum high rise intake, I am noticing my push rods are in a angle from lifter, thru the hole in the head, to the rocker arm, please help me I am confused, a few are straight and some are in a angle
The rocker arms are individually shimmed to center them
The rods from the lifter to the rockers are slightly angled going thru the head , can’t straighten completely cause rods will rub the head , being in a slight angle is that normal
They should not be. Something is off
❤️🔧🚗🏁
👊
I sent a question on another video you have. Are the stock rockers on a 440 wedge motor non adjustable? Those you have are adjustable. The motor builder says he checked the push rod length and it was okay. My issue is getting so hot I can not let it run long enough to break in the new motor. The plug boots met and fall apart. Before the thermostat opens then it opens and temp goes right back up . So I shut it off. Read my other post to you. Im baffled. Now I see your adjustable rockers and wonder why this motor does not have them.
Stock rockers are not adjustable. You have to shim under the rocker rail. It sounds like you have an air pocket in the coolant system.
@@PetesGarage been playing with it this morning. No air in system it has a evap tank and thermostat kicks open and immediately cools it, then right back up. After much asking I think its valve timing and the motor builder did not shim the rockers and set them correctly. It seem like valves hanging open. Thank for your thoughts The carb has 72 and 86 and seems to be fine. I can get timing set but thats it. Then its melting plug boots. Im at 8degrees timing.then its too hot to work on.
If the valves were hanging open it would run poorly. Water pump, blocked radiator
@@PetesGarage Im leaning now at the engine builder may not have installed the correct pushrod length. He installed stock length push rods with non adjustable rockers and not shimmed properly. I think it needs adjustable rockers installed and adjusted. It seems to me the valves are hanging open and flames are going into the headers do to valve hanging open.
That is possible
Can anyone help me. I have a 440 that I'm installing heartland sharp roller rockers. The rockers have a ball end and the adjustable push rod has ball end. I can set the pushrod ball end to rocker ball end. But I can't turn the motor over a couple times to see if the rocker lines up properly on the valve stem. Any suggestions? I can't find a adjustable pushrod with the funnel top.
If the rocker has a ball end you need a pushrod with a cup
Pete's Garage
This I know but it appears that no one makes them. I'm going to teach out to some companies tommrow. Thanks
That's why I indicated I can't find a pushrod with a cup end.
store.440source.com/Pushrods-for-Adjustable-Rockers-_-RB-8905-long-New/productinfo/105-1008/
No videos from Pete lately ☹️ having withdrawals 😂....🤔I hope everything is ok with Pete. 👍🏻
They're on the way. The last couple videos are crammed full of info.
Your mineral spirited just took or dissolved any oil that was in the bearings and that 2 seconds you dipped them in oil did nothing for the bearings in the roller. Roller lifters need soaked for a while and it has nothing to do with the hydraulic mechanism.
Mineral spirits are made from 100% petroleum distillates (aka oil). Please share exactly what soaking it does.
@@PetesGarage No kidding. It’s not oil, it dissolves any lubricant that’s in the rollers. Soaking the lifter for ten seconds isn’t lubricating the bearings.
So what does soaking do and for how long is it necessary?
@@PetesGarage ya soak them for hours. And your just being stubborn
@@davidleary823 I am simply looking for the correct engineering answer so everyone can benefit.
71 Charger, SE, 383HP WP29N... Torr Red...Hideaway headlights, Rallye dash, Slap Stick, Bucket seats. I've owned it for 35 years. Pulling out the numbers matching engine to rebuild it stock, and then crate it. I have a 1969 440 that I want to go bat shit crazy with... 1,000 horse power, 1,000 pounds feet of torque with a 671 blower... I am wondering if you have a build plan for someone like me... I'm old now, want to go out with a bang!! Ha haaaa.... Looking forward to your answer... Ol Sarge...
Well Sarge, 1,000 is tough to get to without some bolt-ons
You won't get 1000hp with a 6-71 on a 440. You need a 10-71 or a very good 8-71. You will also break the stock block. Aim lower.
Roller tip rocker arms are without doubt the single most ridiculous thing ever put on a street motor.
Similar priced, adjustable ductile iron bronze bushed hard chromed shaft rockers are available for all Mopar shaft mount V8s. They're superior becuase the large radius of the ductile iron rocker tip wipes across the valve tip. Conversely the the tiny roller on roller tip rocker arms has a surface loading intensity multiplying effect due to the much smaller radius of the roller when compared to the wiping pad of a non roller rocker arm tip. Why these truly stupid rocker tips were ever put on a sub .750'" lift application is completely beyond my comprehension. The other thing is they don't make any more power (or reduce heat) and add more moving parts on a motor where durability is more important than looks!
That said I have them on a motor of mine because there is no other option when converting from stud to shaft mount on some motors.
I use them because there is no other option when converting from stud to shaft mount
Hey P I have a question I love your show and it's very informative my question is this if I'm using a high-lift cam hydraulic non roller and Edelbrock RPM heads with no work done meaning having the block shaved or the heads in the paperwork for the Edelbrock heads it says that I can use a 9.125 length push rod so length change on your engine because of the use of the roller cam
I have some of the same opinions as you but something I have wondered and would like your thoughts on. Have you considered this? What about valve guide wear and side loading? I tend to think the roller tips would help on this vs sweeping style even on a street motor. Seems it would place less stress on the wear prone guide even if its concentrated/increased on the hardened roller and valve tip. Thoughts?
You have 2 roller rockers not in The middel.wath ai can se! Like you movise.Have even 440 sixpack Weiand tunnel ram intake.Super stock Heads wadge portad flows 315cfm ( 0.600 lift).Roller cam Tti heads.10.3 komp.Carboretors are even ported no chock.Custom (metringblock) The middel fugger.Have even The carburators inner and The Outside can ChangeThe jetts.The Engin rans fantastisk.Have even PRO shot fogger.Have not test The fogger get.Max 150Hp.Gonna start att weery lou jets 20Hp.Wath dou you gess The HP in thes Engine.Can i have 600Hp.Sorry spell like hell.Have even Overdrive GV.Rear End 3 member have The strongest 8 3/4 (4.10) Have stall 2500.Wath dou you tink i will dou one The stripp.Have Nice Day...Challenger SE1970 Weery solid.Ale Sheat metall orginal Rost fri 100%.Forgoth have Caltrack + monelefs and calverts.Street Car
That is very difficult to understand