440 Chrysler Mopar Engine Building Part 10 - Oil Prime, Valve Covers, Intake Manifold & Carb
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- 440 Chrysler Mopar Engine Build. Priming the oil system, Valve Covers, Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifold & Quick Fuel 859 CFM Carb
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Thank you for taking the time to make these videos and share your engine building knowledge. Great videos full of good information.
Thank you for watching Kristy
Nice and neat install Pete. Your detailed explanations of why you have done certain steps are very helpful. Merry Christmas!
Thank you Michael, and a very Merry Christmas to you my friend
Looking great mate. Merry Christmas to you and your family. Look forward to seeing this on the dyno!
Thanks so much, only a few days away
Great video
When installing the new lifters did you coat the entire lifter with assembly lube or just the top and bottom
I coat the whole thing
DARN....These MOPAR Big Block engines are truly the most beautiful engines in the world. They sound incredible as everyone respects the sound & performance of MOPAR big blocks....but my gosh....these engines are pure gold in the exotic beauty department. I have seen every engine known to man, but nothing is as incredible looking as these MOPAR engines are. Chevy has designed some real ugly engines lately. They put those damn cylinder coil packs on the valve cover that really uglified their engines. The distributor is in the back of the engine which also makes their engines ugly. MOPAR has them right in the front on an angle like you have seen on TOP FUEL DRAGSTERS. Oh baby....they look awesome. Eat your hearts out GM lovers. Yes...MOPAR still out-performs everyone else when it comes the HEMI.
Spoken like a true MOPAR guy!
@@PetesGarage..I am MOPAR through and through since I was 7 years old.....I saw the Chevy's & Fords...and hated them...
Nothing worse than a dirty shop
I'm sold Pete! Will you build my 383 > 490 stroker project? Unfortunately, those TrickFlow heads are not an option because I will be starting with a .030 over bore of 4.280 which is less than their minimum bore. 440 Source has some nice heads that will work fine though. Great build! This 440 build has been like my Game of Thrones.
Sounds like a plan!
Always go with Indy Cyl. Heads and intake products!
Pete's Garage hey Peter I got a question I saw your build up on the 440 but what brand of roller rockers were you using and what were the push rod lengths for this engine
Thank you and all those involved in the content, efforts and production of this channel.
Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and Happy New Year to all.
May the new year bring you, your families and friends much health, wealth, happiness, safety, security, appreciation, respect and peace.
Its gonna be awesome!
Absofreakinlutely
wow i love the build am happy for you,, i hate to be an ass but i beleave the mopar M1 intake better match for the flow of heads you have and carb. great show !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Tobias. There are many great combinations. Thank you for the suggestion.
Hi Pete. What is your opinion on bypass oil filters? Eg the Fram toilet paper filter. Love the show. Merry Christmas
I try to avoid paper filters, they are all pretty much junk, especially for a high performance engine. Merry Christmas my friend!
I'm watching videos as much as I can about doing the intake manifold install on my 440. Most everyone says not to use the paper gaskets under the pan. But the Edelbrock instructions do say to use (their) gaskets for the intake instead of RTV around the ports. Is there a reason not to?
Well, It has been my experience that just using Right Stuff sealer around the pan works just fine. The paper gaskets tend to dry out, plus you're adding potential leak paths. I always say follow the manufacturers recommendations. I have seen pan gaskets crack without the paper gaskets because they get stretched too much.
The 440 was bored and stroked . How many cubic inches is it now !
Wyr
God bless
It's just shy of 500
Pete, looks amazing! Was the deck height lowered at all? Is that why the intake did not sit down and you have to grind the corners.
The deck was milled .005" to take care of some pitting, but not enough to cause that. Just manufacturing variation.
i feel guilty when i leave a compliment on Pete's awesome videos. Because he seems to answer just about every comment. I don't wanna waste his time. THANKS for the video Pete! (Do not reply) Hahaha
I try to answer every comment and question
Man I could watch this all day lol! Haven't built my own engine yet but I know if I watch your videos, I'll be good to go! I've done some work on engines, upgrading and such. Just never built one yet. Keep making these awesome videos and especially these engines.
Thanks very much my friend. Start building one
Pete I have 0 oil pressure on a 440 new build that's sat for 5 1/2 years. Oil comes out of sender port on drivers side rear block when I prime the pump. I changed oil, oil filter with fram filter, and oil pump. Still same thing. Please advise.
This is a tough one
Great channel. Replacing original intake on my 400 HP engine in my 74 Charger SE. Guess I'm not using any of the paper gaskets that came with the valley pan gasket. However between the valley pan and the manifold would some gaskets hurt? I've already purchased the Edelbrock 7225 gaskets.
I've never used them so I can't say. If they sell them they must work.
Inoticed that the valve covers are not cut out for a pcv system. how does that work, are you going to have a sealed crankcase with no venting.
The rear hole on the passenger side is used for the PVC
HI Pete! how do you decide for the carburator. Is it your customers who bring it, or did you advise your customers to buy this one. All to get the maximum effect from the engine. Thanks
I do have a video about the math involved in choosing a carburetor
Where did you get the spark plug organizers that were close to headers? Thanks
They are called wire looms, easy to find
that engine's too pretty to use, frame it and mount it on the wall:)
Now that would be a task
Pete, thanks for a great video! Is priming a 340 small block done the same as the 440? I'm also running the drill in reverse (counter clockwise to prime the engine... correct?)
I just installed a roller cam & lifters snd getting ready to prime & fire the engine. I want to make sure I do it correctly. Thank you
I think it's counter-clockwise. Put a gage on it and check the pressure, reverse if there is none.
Thanks so much Pete!
Im putting together the same setup as you w trick flo and roller rockers but im having problems w finding valve covers that fit,what are the part#'s for those?? I know they have to be taller than stock...
The part number is P5007614 but they are hard to get
@@PetesGarage Thanks for getting back, this will solve a big problem for me love your channel
Thanks John
No anti-seize on stainless bolts to alum. Heads? Always anti-sze. All bolts!
Opinions vary
A true professional Pete.
Thanks my friend
You skipped putting on the damper. Lining up the keyway isn't easy. I was off by less than 1/64" and it bent the key as it started to go in. I ended up having to buy a new key, which is more down time, plus, I had to take my timing cover back off, take the timing chain and crank gear off, and dig the key out of the crank. What a pain in the arse. I really wish cranks were splined like axles...
Splined is a great idea, cost keeps that from happening
Forgot to tell viewers to make sure crank is tdc before installing oil drive /distributor gear
Thank you
I'd like to think that's common sense fur someone rebuilding an engine or they going to have many other problems that aren't as forgiving.
If you are using stainless fasteners with aluminum, I think you need to use an aluminum based never-seize compound to prevent corrosion. Correct me if I'm wrong.
It wouldn't hurt
I have a question, how much the engine cost from the crate if you buy from mopar
I'm not sure
DEPENDS ON HOW FAST YOU WANT TO GO OR HOW MUCH MONEY YOU HAVE
What a joy to see all those high quality parts coming together. Great Job Pete.
One more video left and it's off to testing
This thing is gonna make an epic racket, wish I could be there to feel/hear it.
Next week I'm gonna drive 600 miles to get an overhauled engine for my little car. Not epic in any way, but I really miss driving it.
I have a 68 charger 440 with stock manifold.Anyone have the part # & company to order from? I've been looking but getting confused between the blocked & unblocked heat ports & some pages doesn't say they're for a 440. ive looked at oreilys & summit. Couldn't find one at classic industries.
440soursce.com
Thank you Pete~! Really love that tip about dressing nicely when assembling an engine. I'm actually going to try that next time I do something finicky. Have a thumbs up! Merry Christmas!
Thank you my friend and a very Merry Christmas to you
Thanks Pete!
You bet!
Hi again, what brand RTB did you use?
It's not RTV, Permatex Right Stuff
Do you have to clock the oil drive gear/shaft? with the hex head end, it could go in with the notch for the distributor, turned like 6 different angles. How do you know when you install the oil drive gear/shaft, that your disti will line up to #1 cylinder at tdc?
Yes you do, I have a video about that. ua-cam.com/video/W7oDHAEeFwg/v-deo.html
I've got a 78 Power Wagon that was special ordered with a 440 high performance. Holley's cfm calculator says I need a 600-650 cfm Demon carb for it. Will that give me my low end power while giving me better mileage? Btw, it's full time 4 wheel drive, np203, 727, 3.21 gears.
Without knowing much more about the engine, that would work
I ran my 383 6800rpm & had no problems , or starvation of oil supply .held 80 psi from idel on up . 🏁Factory Stock 1970 oil pan 🏁 melting HV pump w/ heavy spring 😊🥂🏁
That's awesome. Looking the dyno sheet for me there was no reason to go that high
I got a question, My 440 after I fully rebuilt it will sit for about six months. So do I put in breakin oil then let it sit for six months? Or do I take it apart in six months? Or do I fill in through the valve cover? Also do I need to pre lube it if I just poor it through the valve cover?
If it's going to sit I'd fill it with the break in oil, then fully rotate and pre-lube the engine before starting
Nice good job engineering
Thank you my friend
Pete that was freakin awesome, thanks for showing us how its done. I like all of your videos. That was funny about the engine builder who said wear nice clothes to do neat work. That sounds about right. Merry Christmas and take care Pete,
Thank you my friend, and a very Merry Christmas to you.
Merry Christmas Pete
Merry Christmas my friend
6:55 Hey, Pete, what kind of paint did you use to spray that valley tray. I'm building a 451 stroker Mopar that's very similar to what you put together here in your videos (Trickflow power port 240 heads). Thanks for being such an amazing guide!
I use Eastwood 2K ceramic engine paint, it works awesome
@@PetesGarage So I went with what ya said (Black Eastwood 2K Ceramic) and WOW does it look awesome!!! Thanks again for the info.
Hello , would the intake gasket install here be the same with a 1968 440 , cast iron heads , aluminum intake?
Yes
What brand gasket was the throttle body gasket and what kind of material was it?
I think that one was a Mr Gasket. It's a standard gasket.
@@PetesGarage thank you and have a happy Thanksgiving!
Merry Christmas Pete. Engine is really coming along nicely. Cant wait until its dyno time.
Merry Christmas to you my friend, we are only days away
What size is the hex going to the oil pump ??
5/16"
Thank you, I was wondering the same. I will be installing mine today. 🤙🏼
Was that the correct clocking of the drive gear.?
It just needs to engage in the oil pump below
Pete, can you share where you purchased the brass gear for the oil pump mid shaft? and fuel pump push rod?
440source.com
That is surgical operating room clean. Thanks Pete and Merry Christmas. Take care.
It never hurts to work clean. Merry Christmas to you my friend.
Pete, awesome videos. Where did you find the mopar performance valve covers? I can't find them anywhere.
Thanks Paul, those are hard to find, they might be discontinued.
i was curious that when you installed the heads and intake manifold you didnt include the brackets for the spark plug wires..some go under the head bots and some go under the manifold bolts. unless you have other provisions for where you locate themm
I sure did. Watch the last couple of videos and you'll see the wire looms I used.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to You , Your Family and Friends
And a very Merry Christmas to you my friend!
That is an extremely important imperative to have extra volume of oil in a motor such as this.
I work in a machine shop in the late 70s and early 80s.
And probably the number one cause of motor that went to the Grave with guys with Buzz them with a stock oil pan for extended amount of time and fill the rock lids up with all the oil .
Starving the bottom end.
And the consequence was disaster.
Back in the era, there was not a lot of high-volume oil pans available .
so I used to get some 16 gauge sheet metal,
make a little box shape, with a slight angle on the bottom.
and put it on the side of the oil pan and just weld it in there real quick.
Fairly easy to do,
wasn't too awful bad looking either.
And the number one thing I always did if I'm going to buzz my motor is a high-volume oil pump, absolutely number one thing.
Then do the pan.
Check for leaks,
paint it up,
bolt it on.
Thank you for sharing with us
Pete's Garage ,
Welcome.
Yeah I'd like to add one thing here.
These guys get together annually at the drag strip .
take their Factory hot rod cars out to the drag strip. you look underneath and every single one of them has a stock volume oil pan.
440 six pack cars,
ZL1 cars, Cobra Jet cars, etc.
Absolutely unbelievable to see that stuff.
Rare and irreplaceable pieces there.
still out there doing the same thing!
I was curious about what brand of roller rockers you used and what type of push rod and what was the length on the push rod to use for this camshaft
The rockers are Proform and the pushrods are from 440 source part number 105-1008
Is there any chance that the powder coating on the intake would cause the intake to retain heat rather than let the heat escape?
That is a great question. You would have to test it to really see. If there is, it wouldn't be much
Does the oil mixing shaft and gear be in any particular possion
Yes
Pete,do you think a 509 mopar cam in a 383 is to big of a cam to use stock rockers?
I would say yes.
Wash your hands you are getting sealant on the intake it will come off lol looks awesome
I powder coat all the manifolds so they are easy to clean
Hi Pete! when you do the footpoundings do you cross line the bolts and i also hear with you it clicks just once and you have it. Some are doing even 2 to 3 clicks before they are done .... Thanks
Follow the specifications for the torque pattern. You only need one click. Two or three clicks does not make it "more torqued".
Hi Pete! Again some do othervise. ok thanks
By the way I bought brand new oil pressure gauge just to eliminate it as an issue.
We will figure it out
Getting closer to " FIRE IN THE HOLE "
Some time this week!
So paper gaskets could potentially cause a leak? Under the valley pan?
Anything can cause a leak, I just never use them
I agree George. I'd like to see it done right. I imagine you start 1 @ TDC
I always start #1 at TDC.
What does the term billet mean?
Billet parts are machined from a solid piece of metal instead of cast or forged
Pete's Garage ohh! Thank you for the response! I always look forward to learning with you
Please don't hammer balancer on. Use available installer. Or were you adjusting thrust clearance.omg
Thanks for the tip
lol.. why not ? it’s a great way to ruin the thrust bearing... and the balancer & crank...
thanks for the video i have a 400 big block under the hood of my 73 Charger , and i have some pretty amount of oil on the top of the valley pan , i changed the valve covers gaskets but still have the problem , could this be from the valley pan gasket? thanks in advance
Yes, could also be a very small crack in the valley pan itself
@@PetesGarage any way to test it ? thanks for your help love the videos
The best way it to take it off and inspect from underneath
@@PetesGarage will do that soon thanks brother keep up the good things greetings
Hey from a fellow employee at GM nice video!
That was a long time ago, hope you're doing well
does the top end get oil in the main journals? or push rods
It goes up through the head to the rocker rail
Thanks, Pete! Have a good holiday, man
You have a great holiday too Christopher
Merry Christmas buddy thank you for the video
Merry Christmas my friend
I got a six pack manifold for sale needs to be cleaned up been sitting for years
That should be easy to sell
@@PetesGarage how much do you think i should sell it for?
$125
@@PetesGarage want to buy it so the good people can watch you restore it?
That's a possibility, I'll give you $50
What ever happened to the cam degreeing part after the heads went on?
It's still there, I'll check the playlist
do you have an email address? I have a big question
petesgarageinfo@gmail.com
What size is the allen for the oil drive? Thanks
5/16"
Looking sweet! Can't wait to hear it run!
Just a few days away
Which brand of valley pan gasket did you use here?
It was a Fel-Pro set
@@PetesGarage thank you sir
Did you powder coat the intake?
Yes I did
Can you please go over the oil going into the 440 journal
I'll try
Tons of guys on mopar engines group asking
@@slams777 ok.. I'll work it in
Nice job brother pete
Thanks 👍
Im about to start my 440
Excellent
Did you do the powered coated your self?
Yes
Did you make a video on powder coat the intake?
Yes
Looks great!
Thanks!
You’re awesome
Thanks Luke
❤️🔧🚗🏁
👊
First one to comment
Woo Hoo! You win a t-shirt
Pete's Garage awesome! How do I get it?
email your address to me
Pete's Garage what's your email address?
petesgarageinfo@gmail.com
Just a serious question... not a criticism...Why did you choose to use stainless steel fasteners on the intake? As a corrosion and mechanical engineer I have always shied away from using stainless steel fasteners with aluminum when designing and building my machines.. Stainless and aluminum do not get along well.. The 2 dissimilar metals create one heck of a galvanic cell when in the presence of moisture or worse yet an electrolyte such as antifreeze...Is it because this engine will be in a trailer queen and you are only concerned with looks over corrosion? Would you use different fasteners if building a daily driver?
Leaving Communitst NY On this planet technically everything reacts with something if not a hoard of some things and all will eventually fail and erode away in one form or another. Our skin ages, plastic crumbles, mountains erode. For the purpose of this engine the ARP bolts or whatever stainless screws would be far better choice than the hardware store regular screws.
73sebrougham, I simply asked Pete why he chose them and what his intended use is.... I worked for Chrysler for over 10 years in corrosion a laboratory testing, proving, and selecting materials for use on automotive cooling and power plant components. another 15 years designing and building machinery to be used in harsh environments. Its called Galvanic potential....yes everything reacts, but that is a pretty uneducated statement that shows how little you really know about corrosion and materials selection.. My guess is you know pretty much nothing about material selection. And no, stainless steel fasteners are not a better choice for use in aluminum UNLESS the engine will be used in a show car no daily driving and the stainless is for show and the threads are coated with an anticorrosive like never-seize... Unless the engine is kept bone dry in non humid conditions the Galvanic corrosion will chew up the threads on the aluminum head and seize the fasteners very very quickly...
You both are very correct. I chose the fasteners for looks. I understand there is galvanic potential there, but I've never had a problem. almost every engine I build goes in a car that will never see a rainy day or harsh conditions. Cars I did 10 or 15 years age still look as good as the day I finished them and the owners take meticulous cars of them. Thanks for both of your comments!
These fasteners are not in the coolant path. They are very protected from the environment and the head rests on the powder coating.
a 7 qt pan is not big enough with that oil pump. I know because I have pumped all of the oil out of the pan and the blew up. I talked to Larry Shepard @ Direct Conection in the 80's
Well, a lot has changed since the 80's. If you do not have adequate return you could starve the pan. I have never had that problem.
Hey Dave...I don't know any MOPAR GUYS like me who run small 7 quart pans. My Moroso oil pan & Fram remote filter units hold 18 quarts of oil....so my car never ran out of OIL in my life. None of my friends have either. You must have had the worst luck...unheard of.....
@@tyhighway2127 Back in the day, I was just married little extra money, the car was my friends car. I did the engine assembly. We were a t a track in Nebraska ( we are from the great state of Iowa) we were ahead of the defending track champ when the engine blew up. The car we were beating had a Hemi in it a 66 Dodge B body
@@davedocker1195….What's your point man. Are you saying the Hemi was to blame for someone not able to take you on? Give me a Hemi, and any car MOPAR has designed, & I am sure I will stay ahead of you & your non-Hemi vehicle. I knew MOPAR driver Swede Savage, and I promise you, had he had a Hemi powered car on any track with his brilliant experience....he would have pounded any driver. The Hemi is truly the greatest engine ever designed by mankind. An all aluminum Donovan Hemi, with the trick toys inside would have obliterated any car in American racing events, but for some reason, that engine has been banned from nearly every auto-sport known to man. MOPAR was crippled in Trans Am because they never really had a small block that could compete & deliver the power like "THE ANCIENT" & over-tricked small blocks Both Ford & Chevy enjoyed. We MOPAR fans have been screwed over by rules that block Hemi's from most automotive competitions except for "TOP FUEL & FUNNY CAR" classes in Drag racing where they dominate the 10,000-13,000 horsepower mega engines. Ford & Chevy have "NOTHING" to compete against that engines dominates. It is truly frustrating how rules have compartmentalized The Hemi in auto-racing like "PRO STOCK" drag racing in NHRA. That class was made for Chevy. What really galls me is how Ford, Chevy, Toyota, & other companies put their names on MOPAR drag car "Valve covers" & hide the Hemi plug wires with a block of metal that covers the tell-tail look of the MOPAR engine. I complained about this "FRAUD" to NHRA...and their excuse was that is how it has always been.....and no one else ever contacted NHRA's headquarters with the complaint of FRAUD. Please....don't delude yourself with the idea that you beat the Hemi in a race, when the driver is to blame.
Pete do you have a parts list for your build?
Yes, email me for the list, specify iron or aluminum heads