Wall & Ceiling pop's where the screws & movement pop out the plaster are quite deep & i use decorators caulk to fill first,it sticks like glue to screw head, skim off clean ,it will sink back as it don't have much body to it, then i use just normal filler, or Ronseal two part, never fails, i have returned to properties yrs later, expanding foam does find the channels but disintegrates over time as it's basically a dried hard sponge, you can squirt a tiny amount just to help stick, but onto a board then when dry pack out, less messy, tried & tested, evo stik too is good as it's an adhesive that is gum like & flexible so will take movement in wood etc 👍
Nice one bud, I been using expanding foam for a range of different applications over the last few years. Since doing so have come to appreciate its ability to be a 90% fix bar rebuilding to craftsman's standards. So yea great for strings on staircases and also those annoying corner cracks and wall to ceiling joint from old plasterboard.
I have some wicked gaps around my staircase that the builders bodged up with some horrible elastic filler. I shall tackle that job now I'm armed with this new knowledge. BTW, when you say to prime before filling, prime with what? Emulsion paint? Or wood primer maybe? Thanks for your excellent video.
Nice to see the video wonder where you’ve been thought you were waiting at an airport, good luck on cleaning it off the carpet when used it I got some on the inside of a kitchen cabinets and two years later there’s still remains of it
Great vid as always 👍🏼 another great thing I’ve found that stands the test of time and gives even further peace of mind is using something like CT-1 or Isomat PU-40 as the ‘caulk bead’.. they’re perfect. Insanely flexible and overpaintable
Nice video mate 👍 I normally tape where you don't want the foam to stick to and wet where you are filling mate. I had a staircase which kept on cracking. I used repair care bit expensive but been back many times in six years and as not moved👍
The gap at the back would just swallow filler though it's so big. The smaller gap will fill fine with chaulk. RC would be a bit much lol On a painted finish staircase I'd run a line of tape normally. This is being prepared for spraying so will get cleaned down again. Prime, Uc and two top finish.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I appreciate you are going to paint the stringers Phil. Just my opinion mate,foam sticks like shit to the blanket. I just find masking of what you don't want the foam to stick to is far easier. All you have to do is cut foam away and then run a blade down the top of the stringer and peel away the tape. Still we all work different mate.👍
@@painterman8863 I would do normally. This did cut back and clean off really easily with a nice clean filling knife and then a light sand as well. I did think it would have left a glue surface like you get with carpet fitters spray glue.. thankfully it didn't leave anything behind.
Polyurethane glue is a good fix Phil less mess and expands with the bonus of bonding. Also can fix creaking treads by drilling 2 holes into each creaking tread and string at an angle then squeeze polyurethane glue in holes, no more creaking.👍🏻
did this around a whole 3 bed house the other day cause the caps everywhere were massive aint half time consuming when doing loads of it people looking at me as though i was a cowboy for some reason. you wanna try soudal make better control
You need to watch painting and decorating to see how to use expanding foam correctly 🤐 The first time I used expanding foam it exploded and it went in my hair and I was picking it off my hands for a few days.
Toupret is good filler, so I'd say it might be worth a try. The foam set well and a skim with Presto F had given a good result. Finished with the bead of caulk prior to the finish coats give a neat angle.
no it wouldn't it aint as flexible you would imagine and it shrinks well the tube version does anyway for gaps this size using that gear would cost you a fortune best to use expanding foam and polycell all purpose filler better than interior filler kind of a modern version of a repair to the most old school repair of oakum rope and linseed putty or lime putty. i would stay away from caulk most of them are crap i would look at a paintable hybrid polymer to caulk if you want to use a tube.
The presto F is a nice filler, and there's something in it that makes it not flash when you paint over it.. once fully dry.. Have you tried it. I've moved onto Wickes own brand lightweight filler. So much cheaper than RedDevil... And you wouldn't know any difference. I do use the the Red Devil One Time flexible caulk.. very impressed with that. It's interior exterior as well.
I haven’t I’ll have to give it a go mate, most fillers I find you need to paint over with a contract Matt or something to stop the finishing coat sinking into the filler. I’ll also have to give the Red Devil caulk never tried it before. I did notice a lot of places have made a lightweight filler and they’re all more or less the same as Red Devil
@@shokdj1 also. I find I don't waste filler when using the Presto F, it goes a long way and very smooth to use, also doesn't give loads of dust like powdered mix up filler.
What a palaver, I've fixed these issues with wooden or plastic beading fixeto the stairs only, quicker, neater and will last, don't mess with foam, fillers and caulk in these situations
If I say part of it has no top edge due to the stringing being flush with the boarding/wall. A new bead wouldn't look right. The gaps were too big for filler. Cut back the foam and skim with filler will be ideal.
@@iSpRayZz the gap would have taken too much filler unless packing it out with newspaper etc. silly foam is a cheap quick way to build up a large cavity like what I had to fill.
Great video as always phil.
Glad you enjoyed it
Wall & Ceiling pop's where the screws & movement pop out the plaster are quite deep & i use decorators caulk to fill first,it sticks like glue to screw head, skim off clean ,it will sink back as it don't have much body to it, then i use just normal filler, or Ronseal two part, never fails, i have returned to properties yrs later, expanding foam does find the channels but disintegrates over time as it's basically a dried hard sponge, you can squirt a tiny amount just to help stick, but onto a board then when dry pack out, less messy, tried & tested, evo stik too is good as it's an adhesive that is gum like & flexible so will take movement in wood etc 👍
Nice one bud, I been using expanding foam for a range of different applications over the last few years. Since doing so have come to appreciate its ability to be a 90% fix bar rebuilding to craftsman's standards. So yea great for strings on staircases and also those annoying corner cracks and wall to ceiling joint from old plasterboard.
The way it fixes the loose boarding is very helpful.
Get yourself a foam applicator gun and use gungrade, much more controllably and you get get fine nozzles to get neatly into smaller gaps as well
I have some wicked gaps around my staircase that the builders bodged up with some horrible elastic filler. I shall tackle that job now I'm armed with this new knowledge. BTW, when you say to prime before filling, prime with what? Emulsion paint? Or wood primer maybe? Thanks for your excellent video.
if its a bare surface use some waterbased primer/Undercoat, then fill/caulk.
Your time, and your content are appreciated.
Nice to see the video wonder where you’ve been thought you were waiting at an airport, good luck on cleaning it off the carpet when used it I got some on the inside of a kitchen cabinets and two years later there’s still remains of it
Can`t wait to see Mrs Jones's face when she sees the state of her carpet LoL, keep up the good work Phil.
It's now been taken up lol
Great vid as always 👍🏼 another great thing I’ve found that stands the test of time and gives even further peace of mind is using something like CT-1 or Isomat PU-40 as the ‘caulk bead’.. they’re perfect. Insanely flexible and overpaintable
Always called it crazy foam
Nice video mate 👍
I normally tape where you don't want the foam to stick to and wet where you are filling mate.
I had a staircase which kept on cracking. I used repair care bit expensive but been back many times in six years and as not moved👍
The gap at the back would just swallow filler though it's so big. The smaller gap will fill fine with chaulk. RC would be a bit much lol
On a painted finish staircase I'd run a line of tape normally. This is being prepared for spraying so will get cleaned down again. Prime, Uc and two top finish.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I appreciate you are going to paint the stringers Phil.
Just my opinion mate,foam sticks like shit to the blanket.
I just find masking of what you don't want the foam to stick to is far easier.
All you have to do is cut foam away and then run a blade down the top of the stringer and peel away the tape.
Still we all work different mate.👍
@@painterman8863 I would do normally. This did cut back and clean off really easily with a nice clean filling knife and then a light sand as well. I did think it would have left a glue surface like you get with carpet fitters spray glue.. thankfully it didn't leave anything behind.
Polyurethane glue is a good fix Phil less mess and expands with the bonus of bonding. Also can fix creaking treads by drilling 2 holes into each creaking tread and string at an angle then squeeze polyurethane glue in holes, no more creaking.👍🏻
oh Lee,it needs more than PVA glue on it.. it wobbles at the bottom a bit!!
Not PVA glue… Polyurethane glue lol. A big difference
Don't forget to spray the area being filled with water as this helps it cure 👍 also this stuff sticks like shit! So wear your gloves haha
did this around a whole 3 bed house the other day cause the caps everywhere were massive aint half time consuming when doing loads of it people looking at me as though i was a cowboy for some reason. you wanna try soudal make better control
I'v used that before.... mainly making Halloween props lol it was an expensive prop after two cans worth lol
Cracking! cheers love the vids
You need to watch painting and decorating to see how to use expanding foam correctly 🤐 The first time I used expanding foam it exploded and it went in my hair and I was picking it off my hands for a few days.
Yeah... Comedy Gold.
I found 7 bottles of foam reduced to 50p each at B&Q. Didnt mind the looks at the till 😅
Would the Toupret anti crack filler be any good for minor movement cracks?
Toupret is good filler, so I'd say it might be worth a try.
The foam set well and a skim with Presto F had given a good result.
Finished with the bead of caulk prior to the finish coats give a neat angle.
no it wouldn't it aint as flexible you would imagine and it shrinks well the tube version does anyway for gaps this size using that gear would cost you a fortune best to use expanding foam and polycell all purpose filler better than interior filler kind of a modern version of a repair to the most old school repair of oakum rope and linseed putty or lime putty. i would stay away from caulk most of them are crap i would look at a paintable hybrid polymer to caulk if you want to use a tube.
I often use Red Devil on popped screw holes because it seems more flexible and I find the popped holes don’t come back
The presto F is a nice filler, and there's something in it that makes it not flash when you paint over it.. once fully dry..
Have you tried it.
I've moved onto Wickes own brand lightweight filler. So much cheaper than RedDevil... And you wouldn't know any difference.
I do use the the Red Devil One Time flexible caulk.. very impressed with that. It's interior exterior as well.
I haven’t I’ll have to give it a go mate, most fillers I find you need to paint over with a contract Matt or something to stop the finishing coat sinking into the filler. I’ll also have to give the Red Devil caulk never tried it before. I did notice a lot of places have made a lightweight filler and they’re all more or less the same as Red Devil
@@shokdj1 also. I find I don't waste filler when using the Presto F, it goes a long way and very smooth to use, also doesn't give loads of dust like powdered mix up filler.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator these are very good tips I’m always searching for better products
Lucky it's your house & your replacing the carpet. 👍
Oh it's not my house. Couldn't afford it where it is.
What a palaver, I've fixed these issues with wooden or plastic beading fixeto the stairs only, quicker, neater and will last, don't mess with foam, fillers and caulk in these situations
If I say part of it has no top edge due to the stringing being flush with the boarding/wall.
A new bead wouldn't look right.
The gaps were too big for filler.
Cut back the foam and skim with filler will be ideal.
Isomat flex pu40 a lot better than how your doing it and never had a problem after
Phil knows best, he's a professional painter and decorator 🤣🤣🤣
@@iSpRayZz the gap would have taken too much filler unless packing it out with newspaper etc. silly foam is a cheap quick way to build up a large cavity like what I had to fill.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator like previous comment you know best lol👍
Phil your so maudlin i luv ya!!
lol
foam need to holde bottom up to working properly
Yeah, it works a lot easier upside down :)
Do a part 2 of cutting back and filling
That's the easy bit. A clean filling knife trimmed it back and a light sand over the wood and it cleaned up well.
I'll do you one.. watch this space ;)
Good video. Funny aswell. Get yourself a foam gun. Lot easier to control.
LoL tnx... I'm not planning on doing it too often lol
That can was £6.99 which I didn't think was bad.
Looks like Ricky Gervais s😅
..thanks🤙
No problem 👍
Spin the can 🫡
oh it can spin ;)