I used this technique on my stringer a year ago after watching your video and not the slightest crack has returned.Same for the front door frame too. Thank you. Top channel!
New builds would never allow us to do this amount of work. But the results clearly speak for themselves. There is the quick way that all site builder's insist on .. or there is the correct way . Top work squire .
I love how you sheepishly introduced the use of foam as we always have a laugh when you use it, but it's perfect for the job. Another great repair job! I've used foam a few times and it can easily get out of hand haha.
Fascinating to see how tradesmen in different fields to my own operate. Within minutes of the video I think you can tell this guy knows what he's doing and pays attention to small detail!
Wish I saw this before doing my stairs. I now realise that I have buttered it. I'm planning to redo it properly after I sort out all the squeeks! Thanks
Lovely job 👍 I wouldn't have the time to do all that prep on the jobs i get sent on though , caulk for me , i'd have to have half the house coated up in that time 😂 Will definitely try this method on any private jobs or work at home though 👍
Thanks for the video and tips. Lovely job. I have been using a foam roller to apply water based satin (Zinsser Permawhite) to some doors and have problems with tiny air bubbles. Any idea how I could stop this? The roller is working well apart from this problem. I've tried brushing but it's very difficult /impossible to get a good finish. I don't want to use oil based because of yellowing.
Well usually you lay off with a brush... but water based does not really allow this... your paint may be a little too thick.. but like James says it's more than lightly down to the nap... micro may work better also slow down... rolling too fast can create more bubbles.... and make sure you spread the paint out as thin as you can when rolling...
Thanks for the great video. It's so detailed and helpful, the best video for tackling the problem on UA-cam. We've started fixing our staircase that looks exactly like the one in the video, we raked out the chalk, filled in the gap with foam like shown. One question for the next step, you used BIN primer here instead of diluted PVA, can you explain why? Thank you very much!
Strength. Of substrate. For the proceeding step, which requires hard filling. PVA provides a good key but doesn't have the same strength, adhesion or priming abilities (multiple benefits) as BIN. You should have PVA'd prior to foaming but I guess the problems been solved by now
Great stuff. With the second round of hardstop filling have you switched to a fine surface filler or just using the same polyfilla as the first fill? I've got some Gyproc easifill and was just wondering whether I can use this for 1st and second fill.
@@Tashira2923 it depends how tough your wallpaper is. You may be able to tape it up. Or if the paper is loose fold it back as far as you can sometimes you can tape it. Other than than that take your time and wipe off any mess.. thanks
Thanks very much for this. It’s going to help me out a lot! One other thing if you have the time please, we have just stripped the carpet off the stairs and want to paint the steps. There are lots of hairline cracks in the wooden boards though which have caused the layers of old paint to crack on top. No structural issues with the wood but I’m afraid my fresh paint will just crack over time. Is the best way forward to press some wood filler into these hairline cracks before sanding and prepping the wood for painting? Would I need to rake the cracks out to make them bigger, similar to like you do with plaster cracks? Any suggestions would be a massive help please or if you’ve already done a video on it which I’ve missed. Cheers! Jay
First rate as always.....and I was waiting for the foam to come out! I have to admit....I've learned a lot from your videos. Just one thing though....what is the point of the hard stop? Why do you need to tint the filler? Surely a couple of coats of paint would sort it???? Thanks again.
So i did this about 6months ago, cut everything out and filled it with easi fill. Its now started cracking, i don't want to redo this again to get the same problem. The only thing i didn't use was the expanding foam. Will this make the difference?
I used this technique on my stringer a year ago after watching your video and not the slightest crack has returned.Same for the front door frame too. Thank you. Top channel!
Thank you your welcome..
The man loves the foam!
In all seriousness, thanks for the video. Just working on the staircase and passage now and this has been really informative.
New builds would never allow us to do this amount of work. But the results clearly speak for themselves. There is the quick way that all site builder's insist on .. or there is the correct way . Top work squire .
Thank you... yes totally agree shame
I love how you sheepishly introduced the use of foam as we always have a laugh when you use it, but it's perfect for the job.
Another great repair job!
I've used foam a few times and it can easily get out of hand haha.
Fascinating to see how tradesmen in different fields to my own operate. Within minutes of the video I think you can tell this guy knows what he's doing and pays attention to small detail!
Thank you.
Wish I saw this before doing my stairs. I now realise that I have buttered it. I'm planning to redo it properly after I sort out all the squeeks! Thanks
Thanks very useful had constant cracking on my stairs hopefully this will sort it 👍
Another top quality tutorial. I am gratefull for this channel.
Lovely job 👍 I wouldn't have the time to do all that prep on the jobs i get sent on though , caulk for me , i'd have to have half the house coated up in that time 😂 Will definitely try this method on any private jobs or work at home though 👍
Thanks customers appreciate no more cracks. But totally agree if your up against it.
Such a great video! Followed this step by step and its been a huge success on my staircase 👍
You are the real deal
Thank you for your generosity
I'm in the process 😁 foaming tomorrow.. cool videos great info..and technique..
How did it go?
@@mannion1985 fantastic no reoccurring cracks its been sorted. 👍👍👏
Nice! That's what we want!
lovely job again
Cheers mate
Thanks for the video and tips. Lovely job. I have been using a foam roller to apply water based satin (Zinsser Permawhite) to some doors and have problems with tiny air bubbles. Any idea how I could stop this? The roller is working well apart from this problem. I've tried brushing but it's very difficult /impossible to get a good finish. I don't want to use oil based because of yellowing.
Mark Rowland use a microfiber roller
@@jamesmcconnon2 Thanks for the tip - I'll give it a try.
Well usually you lay off with a brush... but water based does not really allow this... your paint may be a little too thick.. but like James says it's more than lightly down to the nap... micro may work better also slow down... rolling too fast can create more bubbles.... and make sure you spread the paint out as thin as you can when rolling...
@@PaintingandDecorating Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a try.
Thanks for the great video. It's so detailed and helpful, the best video for tackling the problem on UA-cam. We've started fixing our staircase that looks exactly like the one in the video, we raked out the chalk, filled in the gap with foam like shown. One question for the next step, you used BIN primer here instead of diluted PVA, can you explain why? Thank you very much!
Strength. Of substrate. For the proceeding step, which requires hard filling. PVA provides a good key but doesn't have the same strength, adhesion or priming abilities (multiple benefits) as BIN. You should have PVA'd prior to foaming but I guess the problems been solved by now
Great stuff. With the second round of hardstop filling have you switched to a fine surface filler or just using the same polyfilla as the first fill? I've got some Gyproc easifill and was just wondering whether I can use this for 1st and second fill.
Thanks. Yes, same filler and I've never used Gyproc easifill but it should be fine.
Thanks for the reply. One good thing about coronavirus furlough I can crack on!
Great job. Thanks so much
Thank you.
@paintinganddecorating my stairs have wallpaper what other precautions do I need to take? Thanks
Not sure what you mean...
I’ve got wallpaper rather than painted walls just any tips so I don’t mess up the wallpaper and it needs repapering. Thanks
@@Tashira2923 it depends how tough your wallpaper is. You may be able to tape it up. Or if the paper is loose fold it back as far as you can sometimes you can tape it. Other than than that take your time and wipe off any mess.. thanks
great video, can you tell me what expanding foam you use? or doesn't it really matter
Gun foam is best
Shoe molding or quarter round are normally used. Caulk will work for a while but not forever like molding does.
Thanks very much for this. It’s going to help me out a lot! One other thing if you have the time please, we have just stripped the carpet off the stairs and want to paint the steps. There are lots of hairline cracks in the wooden boards though which have caused the layers of old paint to crack on top. No structural issues with the wood but I’m afraid my fresh paint will just crack over time. Is the best way forward to press some wood filler into these hairline cracks before sanding and prepping the wood for painting? Would I need to rake the cracks out to make them bigger, similar to like you do with plaster cracks? Any suggestions would be a massive help please or if you’ve already done a video on it which I’ve missed. Cheers! Jay
like you said is not worth drilling using the stainly knife and scrapper is the safe option enjoyed the video.
Thank you..
Great job!! Would this approach help or do you have any videos or tips to silence noisy stairs? Thanks in advance!
More difficult to get rid of noisy stairs.. As for the construction so many joints.. get a bungalow...
This seem to be an inherent problem in all new built. Snaggers getting called back with 6 months and just applying fresh caulk. Brill video.
Thank you.
Dosent seem to be much gap at all behind my stringer. Should I still foam it?
Top work as always. My wife saw me watching this and asked me what is the colour of the wall. Any chance you remember?
Thank you... belive it or not that is pure brilliant white matt..
@@PaintingandDecorating Thank you, wasn't expecting this.
First rate as always.....and I was waiting for the foam to come out! I have to admit....I've learned a lot from your videos. Just one thing though....what is the point of the hard stop? Why do you need to tint the filler? Surely a couple of coats of paint would sort it???? Thanks again.
Hard stop is so you can fill before the second coat of paint... and the filler does not flash..
Very helpful video once again. Always learning from you. Thank you for taking the time and trouble to produce them
What is the name of the flat tool that use to fill the gaps with?
It's called continental filling knive.
But proper name is Japanese filling knive.
So i did this about 6months ago, cut everything out and filled it with easi fill. Its now started cracking, i don't want to redo this again to get the same problem. The only thing i didn't use was the expanding foam. Will this make the difference?
@@FoodForThought-hx4fn yes it the only reason it's cracked not using the shock absorber. Foam.. thanks
What is the filler you used??
I think he said hardstop filler, basically a mixture of filler and paint but happy to be corrected.
Oooh....I forgot to ask....where do you get your filling knives?
Screwfix 👍🏼
Yes screwfix other places sell them as well.... your local decorating center.
Have you shaved your hands?
Or just get some fancy wooden beading and nail and caulk over the lot.. 👍