Ok Andy, you have sold me! I will be using the total boat thixo on my next one off skiff build! It just looks like a big time saver, and much cleaner than mixing putty! Thanks brother, JC!
I order a Flexisander after watch your video. I am restoring a Bertram 20 Bahia Mar and fairing the curved transom has been a pain. My brother spent 4 years restoring his Bertram 25, be thankful you have outboards.
A cup of coffee and some Andy. I havent watched YET... but I wanted to take a second and tell you your videos ALWAYS make me smile - even before I watch them! Thanks man!
Nice video Andy. Thanks for making it. A Flexi Sander would have been nice but so many manufactured tools are not available here in S. Africa. While doing massive amounts of serious resin blister repair on my 40 foot sailboat, sheetrock compound knives were too small and tedious to use. I had to make screeds of Plexiglas, of various thicknesses, widths and lengths. Some were very stiff and some very flexible, all depending on what odd shape of the hull had to be faired with 2 part epoxy filler. The business edge of the screed was cut perfectly with a router, following an aluminum straight edge. I do think, in the end, this worked as well as a Flexi Sander would have worked and cost me only the time to make the tools, as the plastics were someone else’s scrap. ……Then there was the making of a variety of long boards…. Looking forward to your next video.
Andy, I am in the middle of a Grady White project and know, due to not being careful, I will need to do a lot of sanding to my deck because there are a lot of epoxy drips and smears. To bring the deck back to being true and to prepare the deck for some non-skid I think the proper way would be to do some fairing. My questions are... - do you agree that would be the proper approach? - how far does the fairing go? - in this video what size containers of Total Fair are those? - Finally, you dispense the amounts by eye... would you recommend measuring if you are a beginner? Thanks! Watching your videos helps the DIYer more than you know!! Looking forward to the next video
I'm replacing a shattered piece of the topside of the deck, surrounding the mast, on the starboard front quarter of the cabin top. Do you feel that this is a good way to attach that piece and fair to the old deck piece?
Will a future video cover how the hinge side of the wells will be done? Since these well covers seem like they will get a lot of foot traffic with people stepping and standing on them it seems like there will need to be something more than just a couple of hinges to hold all of that expected weight and foot traffic. thanks.
Thanks for the information, have never seen those tools before, I Will stay with home made a bit longer maybe stiff the tool with some angle, like the way your boat is coming together have fun.
Nice explanation of the tooling you used.... you're right about getting it laid down the first time with only a couple of low spots. Hardly ever happens. But that's experience for ya! Good job... I used to do a little body work and paint cars... How would you compare fairing compound to Bondo. Is it just a harder finish? Thanks for the video...
Hi Dave! Bondo is a polyester based product and generally speaking very porous (not very good for managing constant exposure to moisture) whereas most marine 'fairing' compounds are epoxy based which do a great job at limiting exposure to moisture. Also epoxy tends to shrink much less after cure so there's less chance for visual distortion with high gloss finishes like paints :-) Hope this helps!
I am going to be testing the tensile strength of a piece of corecell and thought perhaps you'd already have done that in some way. Plywood was painted on the top and bottom... perhaps gel...but either way it had to be removed, and I don't need to be scientific to know glass will be stronger than the non glassed ply, but I am looking for a stress free repair down the road, and I'm a paramedic dabbling in boat renovation for myself, so I'll be taking any advice from someone with your experience. The plywood spanned over the fuel tank and went about 4 feet across by five feet long, seemed like a big space to just have ply and I imagine sagging would be an issue, so I was thinking of making a 3/4 inch by 5 inches glasses both sides corecell board about the right length (4') and seeing how it bends... there's more structure inside to tab up to on one side, the other was a bed...so... thicker than 3/4? More glass? Uh, less bed area, 😆😂 Love your site, I pass it on to everyone that has interest. I hope to use your sponsors more and more often and wish you all future success.
Let me ask you something…I change my tank but I see the pipe on the bottom..but that pipe coming front to the back of the boat..what is that..it’s the big pipe…thanks
Nice explanation of the flexisander boards I’m going to be ordering the 16 and 22in here soon but I’m doing more complex curves a new Kayak bottom wish you were doing something similar. I have watched all your vids great info explained very well and great reasons. Keep it up best channel out there along with Mads. Next time I’m in Angora I’ll come visit from Alaska.
Hello, Have you had a chance to try the Diablo or other brands of open backed sand paper? They claim it doesn't clog nearly as fast. Something fiberglass is good at. Doug
Once again great video. I can't tell you how much you have taught me about fiberglass work. I have a question about fiberglass panels. Can you laminate Owens Corning 703 rigid fiberglass panel? It is used to make speaker boxes in cars and is a lot cheaper than the premade fiberglass board you are using.
I have used a thin pease of wood or plywood and cut the ark into it to spread automotive bondo onto door panels that were in rough shape. Same idea just for cars instead of boats.
Andy, for the diy one time person a concrete finishing trowel will bridge a low spot without flexing. Just a tip for those that need to do a project and don’t want/need to spend the $ on the flexi sander trowel.
Why yes it will, but that was not the point Andy was making. When one needs it to flex to follow that slight curve is when it creates a low spot in the middle, which is not what you want since its supposed to be a nice slight curve. Again as Andy stated, it can still be done with concrete / drywall trowel, just that it will take a lot more steps to fill in and create a high spot like it is supposed to be to get that finished curved surface.
Kevin Fisher I understood what he was saying about the low spot and multiple passes. I was talking about when you come back for rnd two and need to fill the low spot a concrete trowel doesn’t flex like a drywall knife and will fill said low spot without continuing to creat a low spot. The flexi sander is very nice but $$$ and maybe too much $ for an average diy person. I do this line of work for a living also and was trying to be helpful.
great job ,personally i would have stepped the lower part of the coosa outer frame out like made the inner cut half inch bigger then made the lid lower part half inch smaller on that inside cut so they would ve inter locked ,if that made any sense ,,but i like to torture myself with intracate pieces
🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔I have a question I’m building a small skiff what kind of paint can I use below the waterline it’s not gonna sit in water and it will be trailered back-and-forth in salt water and fresh do I have to use bottom paint??? Please help ??
Hey Andy, Thanks for another great video, I was looking up that electric straight line sander, I assume it is a flex sander and that it can only be bought from them overseas? I believe you mentioned that you bought it overseas on a previous video. If so you obviously bought it bought it with 110 volt 60 hertz. I noticed a bosch, what looks to me like a angle grinder head on yours. It's really hard, if not impossible to find an electric straight line sander. Keep up the great work. Jeff
Hi Jeff! The sander I have still has the european 220v plug so I run it off a converter which is working really well. Here's the one I have: www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVXN2SR/?ref=exp_boatworkstoday_dp_vv_d
Thank you sir. And thank you for all the knowledge and time you put out on you tube. You have no idea how much help you have given me. Thanks from the younger generation😁
@@boatworkstoday thank you for your reply. I am doing a complete refit on an old lobster boat (cut and widen, remove keel, replace deck, etc) and have been deciding between epoxy vs polyester... if i go poly, will stick with gel coat, if i go epoxy i will switch all finishing to awlgrip...trying to stick with one system for everything so i dont need to worry about remembering what i used and where....
@@ipscompany5794 rather than using Awlgrip I think you'd have a lot easier time using Alexseal; much more user friendly and able to be repaired DIY style :-) Can finish with this regardless if you use epoxy or poly or vinyl for the glasswork
@@boatworkstoday Are there any downsides to sealing with epoxy? I am a big fan of sealing things with the most effective and longest lasting products possible.
@@boatworkstoday Are there any downsides to sealing it with epoxy? In theory epoxy will last a very long time and one wouldn't have to worry about the gelcoat or paint wearing thin and allowing water to soak into it.
Oh Em Gee! I cannot imagine what you would charge Joe lunch bucket just to do the work on those doors and lockers that this video has been about. That is insane. I could buy a nice boat for that
Hard to say, in the end it's going to be worth whatever someone is willing to pay lol ;-)! There's still a lot of options / variables to be done that will impact the end cost so I really don't know yet
There are a number of different aspects to running this channel, ironically time actually spent working on the boat is only a small part of the overall picture; hence progress is done in baby steps rather than leaps ;-)
The trick to containing the costs on a project like this is 1. Never count your time 2. Leave your receipts laying around in the workshop till the end, that way you'll have lost most of them by the time you add it up. :)
There are a number of different aspects to running this channel, ironically time actually spent working on the boat is only a small part of the overall picture; hence progress is done in baby steps rather than leaps ;-)
I appreciate your effort as always, your knowledgeand experience is very valuable, feel like i should express what im thinking as im sure im not the only one, and alot of people dont take the time to leave comments. Some other channels seem like they build up their content so its not necessarily real time, but different parts of work done over a week or more time, then they will make the vids representing the different work. Of course people will see "previews" of other work in progress, but it seems like a good way to do it, is probably more work to build up the content, but would eventually be easier since you wouldnt have to do work every day. I am a patreon member so i have some skin in the game but want to make sure others coming from the outside see the value. The more people that enjoy and see value in the vids is better for everyone.
Something I am trying to figure out why Were you so careful about the spacing on the outside Of your frames In your last video If you were just going to use thickened epoxy and glass them in anyway I understand you don’t want huge variations but you were almost to the point of if it wasn’t completely uniform it was like you did not want to use it
Love ya work mate just wished you talked in metric measurement like the rest of the world instead of that ancient imperial measurement prehistoric American talk 😁
I'm surprised that you worked on both the port and starboard lockers in one video. You showed 5 minutes of fiberglass work, and then broke into a 15 minute commercial about what tools you use for fairing the compound. But I guess it's all about making "video content" for as much time as you can stretch it out.
It's more efficient to discuss the details of what and why I'm using certain things in video rather than having to field 300+ emails from folks asking that very question ;-)
That is about pleasing what most of his subscribers has stated they liked and wanted. To actually explain how and why he does things the way he does. And to answer the many questions that will come if he does not go into the products he uses. In a years time, he has mentioned several times about how much time saver and easier on his shoulders these are, but this is the first I have heard him mention about the longer ones for thicker substance still involves quite bit of muscle power. So to stick with the shorter length ones for that application. I appreciated hearing that, as I am sure will many others.
wow you have hands of gold you do great work ! my old hands don't even close anymore 47 years of comm fishing will do that Good luck and keep glassing
Who in their right mind would give this a thumbs down? Thank you as always Andy!
Hope shoulder is fine-- please avoid any major treatment
Take care Andy
I really like the way you're showing more than telling! Nice work!
Ok Andy, you have sold me! I will be using the total boat thixo on my next one off skiff build! It just looks like a big time saver, and much cleaner than mixing putty! Thanks brother, JC!
Andy, loved the rythme of this video; nice work!
Another great video. I could watch you work all day. ;-)
Seriously, great explanations of what you do, use and why.
Thank you Ed :-)!
I order a Flexisander after watch your video. I am restoring a Bertram 20 Bahia Mar and fairing the curved transom has been a pain. My brother spent 4 years restoring his Bertram 25, be thankful you have outboards.
A cup of coffee and some Andy.
I havent watched YET... but I wanted to take a second and tell you your videos ALWAYS make me smile - even before I watch them! Thanks man!
Nice video Andy. Thanks for making it. A Flexi Sander would have been nice but so many manufactured tools are not available here in S. Africa. While doing massive amounts of serious resin blister repair on my 40 foot sailboat, sheetrock compound knives were too small and tedious to use. I had to make screeds of Plexiglas, of various thicknesses, widths and lengths. Some were very stiff and some very flexible, all depending on what odd shape of the hull had to be faired with 2 part epoxy filler. The business edge of the screed was cut perfectly with a router, following an aluminum straight edge. I do think, in the end, this worked as well as a Flexi Sander would have worked and cost me only the time to make the tools, as the plastics were someone else’s scrap. ……Then there was the making of a variety of long boards….
Looking forward to your next video.
That flex sander looks like somebody took a windshield wiper and put sandpaper on it. Sheer genius!
Very good 👍👍👍thanks again Andy. I am following your lead and producing great results for DIY ...
Awesome teacher
Love the videos - learning a lot of STUFF🙏🏼👍✌️👌
Nice job Andy. You da Michael Angelo of fiberglass!
Take me for a ride
Love your teaching method. I always learn something new! Thanks for introducing the new tool! Keep up the great videos!
Andy,
I am in the middle of a Grady White project and know, due to not being careful, I will need to do a lot of sanding to my deck because there are a lot of epoxy drips and smears. To bring the deck back to being true and to prepare the deck for some non-skid I think the proper way would be to do some fairing. My questions are...
- do you agree that would be the proper approach?
- how far does the fairing go?
- in this video what size containers of Total Fair are those?
- Finally, you dispense the amounts by eye... would you recommend measuring if you are a beginner?
Thanks! Watching your videos helps the DIYer more than you know!! Looking forward to the next video
I'm replacing a shattered piece of the topside of the deck, surrounding the mast, on the starboard front quarter of the cabin top. Do you feel that this is a good way to attach that piece and fair to the old deck piece?
Will a future video cover how the hinge side of the wells will be done? Since these well covers seem like they will get a lot of foot traffic with people stepping and standing on them it seems like there will need to be something more than just a couple of hinges to hold all of that expected weight and foot traffic. thanks.
Thanks for the information, have never seen those tools before, I Will stay with home made a bit longer maybe stiff the tool with some angle, like the way your boat is coming together have fun.
Liked the style of this vid, nice work Andy!
Fairing...boat spackle!!!
Nice explanation of the tooling you used.... you're right about getting it laid down the first time with only a couple of low spots. Hardly ever happens. But that's experience for ya! Good job...
I used to do a little body work and paint cars...
How would you compare fairing compound to Bondo.
Is it just a harder finish?
Thanks for the video...
Hi Dave! Bondo is a polyester based product and generally speaking very porous (not very good for managing constant exposure to moisture) whereas most marine 'fairing' compounds are epoxy based which do a great job at limiting exposure to moisture. Also epoxy tends to shrink much less after cure so there's less chance for visual distortion with high gloss finishes like paints :-) Hope this helps!
off topic. Are you covering you gunnel knees? with flat pannel or leaving them open?
I am going to be testing the tensile strength of a piece of corecell and thought perhaps you'd already have done that in some way. Plywood was painted on the top and bottom... perhaps gel...but either way it had to be removed, and I don't need to be scientific to know glass will be stronger than the non glassed ply, but I am looking for a stress free repair down the road, and I'm a paramedic dabbling in boat renovation for myself, so I'll be taking any advice from someone with your experience.
The plywood spanned over the fuel tank and went about 4 feet across by five feet long, seemed like a big space to just have ply and I imagine sagging would be an issue, so I was thinking of making a 3/4 inch by 5 inches glasses both sides corecell board about the right length (4') and seeing how it bends... there's more structure inside to tab up to on one side, the other was a bed...so... thicker than 3/4?
More glass?
Uh, less bed area, 😆😂
Love your site, I pass it on to everyone that has interest. I hope to use your sponsors more and more often and wish you all future success.
Let me ask you something…I change my tank but I see the pipe on the bottom..but that pipe coming front to the back of the boat..what is that..it’s the big pipe…thanks
Andy
Sanding with bare hands? How do you prevent the skin from itching???
Nice explanation of the flexisander boards I’m going to be ordering the 16 and 22in here soon but I’m doing more complex curves a new Kayak bottom wish you were doing something similar. I have watched all your vids great info explained very well and great reasons. Keep it up best channel out there along with Mads. Next time I’m in Angora I’ll come visit from Alaska.
"wobbles and woopsies..." i hate it when you get technical. :P
Hello, Have you had a chance to try the Diablo or other brands of open backed sand paper? They claim it doesn't clog nearly as fast. Something fiberglass is good at. Doug
Once again great video. I can't tell you how much you have taught me about fiberglass work. I have a question about fiberglass panels. Can you laminate Owens Corning 703 rigid fiberglass panel? It is used to make speaker boxes in cars and is a lot cheaper than the premade fiberglass board you are using.
I have used a thin pease of wood or plywood and cut the ark into it to spread automotive bondo onto door panels that were in rough shape. Same idea just for cars instead of boats.
Is the electric Flexisander easier on the hands than a regular air file?
Hope you could review ceramic coatings and sealant for boat protection? 😊😊😊 TIA
Andy, for the diy one time person a concrete finishing trowel will bridge a low spot without flexing. Just a tip for those that need to do a project and don’t want/need to spend the $ on the flexi sander trowel.
Why yes it will, but that was not the point Andy was making. When one needs it to flex to follow that slight curve is when it creates a low spot in the middle, which is not what you want since its supposed to be a nice slight curve. Again as Andy stated, it can still be done with concrete / drywall trowel, just that it will take a lot more steps to fill in and create a high spot like it is supposed to be to get that finished curved surface.
Kevin Fisher I understood what he was saying about the low spot and multiple passes. I was talking about when you come back for rnd two and need to fill the low spot a concrete trowel doesn’t flex like a drywall knife and will fill said low spot without continuing to creat a low spot. The flexi sander is very nice but $$$ and maybe too much $ for an average diy person. I do this line of work for a living also and was trying to be helpful.
Absolutely taken as being helpful, thank you :-)!!
BoatworksToday you bet, love the show!
Ah ok. See what you mean now. Yes concrete trowel is normally stiffer.
Can I use Thixo to fill screw holes?
great job ,personally i would have stepped the lower part of the coosa outer frame out like made the inner cut half inch bigger then made the lid lower part half inch smaller on that inside cut so they would ve inter locked ,if that made any sense ,,but i like to torture myself with intracate pieces
🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔I have a question I’m building a small skiff what kind of paint can I use below the waterline it’s not gonna sit in water and it will be trailered back-and-forth in salt water and fresh do I have to use bottom paint???
Please help ??
How do you keep water from getting inside the “box”?
Can Total fare be used below the water line???
I am so glad you bought that tool it was so scary when you were steeling them! Ha ha ha
Good luck on the shoulders, hope it is nothing other than... ...age, it's after all of us.
can't find 1708 where i live ..any equivalent substitution please ?????
Hey Andy,
Thanks for another great video,
I was looking up that electric straight line sander, I assume it is a flex sander and that it can only be bought from them overseas? I believe you mentioned that you bought it overseas on a previous video. If so you obviously bought it bought it with 110 volt 60 hertz. I noticed a bosch, what looks to me like a angle grinder head on yours. It's really hard, if not impossible to find an electric straight line sander. Keep up the great work. Jeff
Hi Jeff! The sander I have still has the european 220v plug so I run it off a converter which is working really well. Here's the one I have: www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVXN2SR/?ref=exp_boatworkstoday_dp_vv_d
How long are you letting the epoxy set up before knocking it down at around 4:56?
typically overnight (12+ hours in 65F temps)
Did you ever fix your shoulder?
Andy probably arthritis. Starts out as light pain than gradually get worse that's me but my hip. Need hip replacement jt
Hey man i can not find a flexisander online any where. Can you let us know what web site to go to?
www.flexisanderusa.com/
Thank you sir. And thank you for all the knowledge and time you put out on you tube. You have no idea how much help you have given me. Thanks from the younger generation😁
epoxy to set the box in place, what was the fairing compound , epoxy too ? how do you gel coat over epoxy?
The fairing was Totalfair made by TotalBoat. Gel cannot be applied overtop, but I was planning on painting anyway :-)
@@boatworkstoday thank you for your reply. I am doing a complete refit on an old lobster boat (cut and widen, remove keel, replace deck, etc) and have been deciding between epoxy vs polyester... if i go poly, will stick with gel coat, if i go epoxy i will switch all finishing to awlgrip...trying to stick with one system for everything so i dont need to worry about remembering what i used and where....
@@ipscompany5794 rather than using Awlgrip I think you'd have a lot easier time using Alexseal; much more user friendly and able to be repaired DIY style :-) Can finish with this regardless if you use epoxy or poly or vinyl for the glasswork
@@boatworkstoday Thank you I will check Alexseal out!
I'm using Total Fair on my project and it's great stuff! Does it need to be sealed with a coat of epoxy before painting?
Doesn't need to be sealed with epoxy, but it should be coated with primer to prevent the paint from absorbing into the fairing :-)
@@boatworkstoday Are there any downsides to sealing with epoxy? I am a big fan of sealing things with the most effective and longest lasting products possible.
@@boatworkstoday Are there any downsides to sealing it with epoxy? In theory epoxy will last a very long time and one wouldn't have to worry about the gelcoat or paint wearing thin and allowing water to soak into it.
@@PanzerDave You would still need to paint over the epoxy, as epoxy will deteriorate in sunlight.
Oh Em Gee! I cannot imagine what you would charge Joe lunch bucket just to do the work on those doors and lockers that this video has been about. That is insane. I could buy a nice boat for that
Beautiful work!
What is G10?
It's a pre-made fiberglass panel :-)
@@boatworkstoday Thank you !
A good video, but i think you use to much time to talk about this FlexiSander ;) Tanks for good DIU clips (Y)
How much is this 40k (approx avg price) boat going to cost in the end? Timing was right
Hard to say, in the end it's going to be worth whatever someone is willing to pay lol ;-)! There's still a lot of options / variables to be done that will impact the end cost so I really don't know yet
I would guess around 1 million if he takes his time spent into account lol. Considering he's doing this full time the progress is painfully slow
There are a number of different aspects to running this channel, ironically time actually spent working on the boat is only a small part of the overall picture; hence progress is done in baby steps rather than leaps ;-)
The trick to containing the costs on a project like this is 1. Never count your time 2. Leave your receipts laying around in the workshop till the end, that way you'll have lost most of them by the time you add it up. :)
Grab some spent gift cards ,use this for touch ups ,and they are disposable
Wish there was more progress shown , waiting a week and just 5 minutes of actual work ...
There are a number of different aspects to running this channel, ironically time actually spent working on the boat is only a small part of the overall picture; hence progress is done in baby steps rather than leaps ;-)
I appreciate your effort as always, your knowledgeand experience is very valuable, feel like i should express what im thinking as im sure im not the only one, and alot of people dont take the time to leave comments. Some other channels seem like they build up their content so its not necessarily real time, but different parts of work done over a week or more time, then they will make the vids representing the different work. Of course people will see "previews" of other work in progress, but it seems like a good way to do it, is probably more work to build up the content, but would eventually be easier since you wouldnt have to do work every day. I am a patreon member so i have some skin in the game but want to make sure others coming from the outside see the value. The more people that enjoy and see value in the vids is better for everyone.
Something I am trying to figure out why Were you so careful about the spacing on the outside Of your frames In your last video If you were just going to use thickened epoxy and glass them in anyway I understand you don’t want huge variations but you were almost to the point of if it wasn’t completely uniform it was like you did not want to use it
Love ya work mate just wished you talked in metric measurement like the rest of the world instead of that ancient imperial measurement prehistoric American talk 😁
Ex British prehistoric talk !!
anyone else smell bondo when hes doing this? lol
I'm surprised that you worked on both the port and starboard lockers in one video. You showed 5 minutes of fiberglass work, and then broke into a 15 minute commercial about what tools you use for fairing the compound. But I guess it's all about making "video content" for as much time as you can stretch it out.
It's more efficient to discuss the details of what and why I'm using certain things in video rather than having to field 300+ emails from folks asking that very question ;-)
@@boatworkstoday And thank you kindly for the tool discussion. Much rather see that than 15 minutes of sanding.
That is about pleasing what most of his subscribers has stated they liked and wanted. To actually explain how and why he does things the way he does. And to answer the many questions that will come if he does not go into the products he uses. In a years time, he has mentioned several times about how much time saver and easier on his shoulders these are, but this is the first I have heard him mention about the longer ones for thicker substance still involves quite bit of muscle power. So to stick with the shorter length ones for that application. I appreciated hearing that, as I am sure will many others.