06:10 "Like Madonna... she gets into the groove, as well" 😂😂😂 Mike, you are a great "teacher". You keep our attention on, and nail this knowledge with all these extremely clever referencing... Thank you.
When we did a service when I was a apprentice every service had a 1/4 gallon of petrol charged to the car for cleaning filter cans etc a little was handy for my motorbike
While you were talking about replacing the small end rod bushing, I was looking at the "book" and was amused to see that the bushes aren't supposed to be changed. The book also mentions that the cylinders should not be deglazed, and it says that the head should not be skimmed. How many things mentioned in the book are not really correct?? I hear many people say they have got their head skimmed and their trucks are working fine.
Indeed! Why sell the little end bushes if they cannot be replaced?! Sometimes the genuine books are wrong I have had lot's of heads skimmed - you just have to cut the valve seats back to the right clearence Mike
Hi I have a Landrover 300 defender with a problem I'm unable to solve,I did an overhaul,got a recommendation of rings size 020,but it has an endless smoke and on piston 2&4 ,there is diesel at the top ,how can I sovle this....
guess the rocking could be caused by the crankshaft thust sleeves being worn so the crank was moving bit forward and back maybe resulting in the rods "leaning" abit
Here is an example - you need the right size for your cylinders www.amazon.ca/Research-FLEX-HONE-Cylinder-Abrasive-Diameter/dp/B002XUL0TK/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=honing+tool&qid=1581194264&sr=8-11
Check fitted gap of each new piston ring in turn with ring positioned half-way down cylinder bore. Fitted gap of rings in bores: Top compression = 0.40 to 0.65 mm 2nd compression = 0.30 to 0.50 mm Oil control rails = 0.30 to 0.60 mm
Hi Mike, just a question on the use of engine stands, Ill be taking the engine and gear box's out of the old 110 chassis soon, the boxes will be going straight into the new chassis but the engine will need to go in a corner of the garage until I have the rest of the rebuild done. The engine will be the last thing I do. I have a stand but is it ok to mount the engine off the fly wheel housing or should I drop the flywheel and housing off and mount to the engine? Just easier for it to be kept together until I get on the job.
I mount onto the block - this gives access to the crank seal - if you mount to the flywheel housing you may not be able to get the crank out (depends on which engine you have)
@@BritannicaRestorations Its a 200tdi defender (genuine) I have to borrow a hoist to get it all out, as the old chassis is in the yard(on stands), I can't just wheel it into the garage on the hoist (the threshold is raised to stop water getting into the garage) so will need to 'hand over' to the engine stand at that point. Once on the stand I can store it until i am ready to work on it. I have a beam/chain hoist in the garage for that point in time and hang it on that when I get to the point of dropping the flywheel etc then back on the stand until I'm read to drop in the new chassis (the engine is at 265k miles from new, oil dropped every 5k, original turbo, had the valves and big ends done 14yrs ago, pump and injectors dealt with by a diesel specialist 12yrs ago) The main point of worry really is I have never seen anyone mount on the fly wheel housing (aluminium) using a stand (4 bolts) only direct on the block.
06:10 "Like Madonna... she gets into the groove, as well" 😂😂😂 Mike, you are a great "teacher". You keep our attention on, and nail this knowledge with all these extremely clever referencing... Thank you.
I appreciate that
When we did a service when I was a apprentice every service had a 1/4 gallon of petrol charged to the car for cleaning filter cans etc a little was handy for my motorbike
While you were talking about replacing the small end rod bushing, I was looking at the "book" and was amused to see that the bushes aren't supposed to be changed. The book also mentions that the cylinders should not be deglazed, and it says that the head should not be skimmed. How many things mentioned in the book are not really correct?? I hear many people say they have got their head skimmed and their trucks are working fine.
Indeed!
Why sell the little end bushes if they cannot be replaced?!
Sometimes the genuine books are wrong
I have had lot's of heads skimmed - you just have to cut the valve seats back to the right clearence
Mike
Hi I have a Landrover 300 defender with a problem I'm unable to solve,I did an overhaul,got a recommendation of rings size 020,but it has an endless smoke and on piston 2&4 ,there is diesel at the top ,how can I sovle this....
guess the rocking could be caused by the crankshaft thust sleeves being worn so the crank was moving bit forward and back maybe resulting in the rods "leaning" abit
Where do you get the honuing tool from? Thats awesome.
Here is an example - you need the right size for your cylinders
www.amazon.ca/Research-FLEX-HONE-Cylinder-Abrasive-Diameter/dp/B002XUL0TK/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=honing+tool&qid=1581194264&sr=8-11
is that a 240 grit
What should be the rings gap to ensure a good compresión and 0 consumption of oil?
Check fitted gap of each new piston ring in turn
with ring positioned half-way down cylinder
bore.
Fitted gap of rings in bores:
Top compression = 0.40 to 0.65 mm
2nd compression = 0.30 to 0.50 mm
Oil control rails = 0.30 to 0.60 mm
@@BritannicaRestorations Thank you!
I preciatte you promt answer. Can you tell me the gap between cylinder and pistón?
Did you paint over the rust on the outside of the block? How do you keep the rust from coming back through?
Hi Mike, just a question on the use of engine stands, Ill be taking the engine and gear box's out of the old 110 chassis soon, the boxes will be going straight into the new chassis but the engine will need to go in a corner of the garage until I have the rest of the rebuild done. The engine will be the last thing I do. I have a stand but is it ok to mount the engine off the fly wheel housing or should I drop the flywheel and housing off and mount to the engine? Just easier for it to be kept together until I get on the job.
I mount onto the block - this gives access to the crank seal - if you mount to the flywheel housing you may not be able to get the crank out (depends on which engine you have)
@@BritannicaRestorations Its a 200tdi defender (genuine) I have to borrow a hoist to get it all out, as the old chassis is in the yard(on stands), I can't just wheel it into the garage on the hoist (the threshold is raised to stop water getting into the garage) so will need to 'hand over' to the engine stand at that point. Once on the stand I can store it until i am ready to work on it. I have a beam/chain hoist in the garage for that point in time and hang it on that when I get to the point of dropping the flywheel etc then back on the stand until I'm read to drop in the new chassis (the engine is at 265k miles from new, oil dropped every 5k, original turbo, had the valves and big ends done 14yrs ago, pump and injectors dealt with by a diesel specialist 12yrs ago) The main point of worry really is I have never seen anyone mount on the fly wheel housing (aluminium) using a stand (4 bolts) only direct on the block.
On a 200 the rear oil seal in in the housing so if you need to pull the crank you would not be able to get it out if mounted on the aluminium housing
Hi,
what kind of tools is this thing you cleaned the cylinder with the driller. Nice videos by the way!
m.brushresearch.com/product-flexhone-tool.php
Landrover do things in strange ways
Indeed!
Shame you couldn't get Turner engineering to get em to you
C$1000 for a set of 4 shipped = I already checked them out
@@BritannicaRestorations is most of that the cost of the rods the shipping or import duty ?
@@makmakis about 75% rods -- might as well pay my guy to set up his miller and do them