I picked up an 80s Toro last week that evidently two other guys in the neighborhood had also tried to fix and gave up. It had no power in gear but had a strong engine and the PTO was still working. It was such a steal, I couldn't resist. After I got into it, I found the clutch disc was totally worn out and quite a lot of it was broken on the friction surface, and as you might imagine, they stopped making replacement parts quite a long time ago. I ended up making a rather elaborate mold for a full carbon clutch disc (just finished the prototype today) and plan to install tomorrow. I have leather working rivets from years ago that I was tempted to mold into the disc but ended up using the old disc as a template and drilled it out. Before all of this, I'd been searching high and low for other mowers that have actual friction clutch discs, and let me tell you, it has not been a fruitful search! I'm guessing this was an industrial try-and-fail kind of thing, as I'd also looked at scraping the clutch altogether and just rigging up a tension-based idler to act as a clutch, but since I had the materials, might as well give it a shot. With the popularity of hydrostatic drives, it definitely gives great insight as to why these friction-based clutches seem to be ill-used solutions. It's probably total overkill, but at least it will be the last clutch disc it'll ever need. 😁 I'm not too worried about it not holding together, just the copious amount of torque it'll have that wheelies might be a concern!
Good point! I was going to but didn't at first, then I saw in the book, so I did end up taking back apart and put grease on the splines. I should have looked in the book first... Thanks for Watching!
I got mine from eBay, I searched with the part number that was in my book 040692. I think the seller was gravely_tractor_museum, I bought off him cause he sold the rivets with it.
IF you would wait too long and the rivets scrape the hub surface, can it be machined and still be functional (machining, surface, as in getting it flat again)? I'm talking about the face of the drive hub (the one on the No. 2 forward/reverse transmission shaft), not the cup/hub surface.
As long as it still has enough meat on it, I don't see any reason it couldn't be resurfaced. I was going to do this on mine to take the glazing off but to get it out is a pain. There are snap rings on the inside of the case and to get to them you have to split the case. If the rivets didn't cut into it to deep, I'd probably change the lining and run it.
@@SABsGarage I've been in the transmission on other 16G's, and it's quite a job to get into that. I know the hub has the inner c-clip retaining it, inside the case cover. I've ordered a new lining, and am gonna try cleaning the hub surface, even though it's a little grooved from rivet contact, and then cleaning up the trunnion cup side and installing the new clutch lining, and see what happens.
Is this tractor designed to free wheel down hill while in drive? I test drove one today and it rolled to fast downhill "in gear" had to use the brake to slow it down. Is that normal? It also needs friction plates!
No, if the pedal/handle is locked in forward or reverse, it will not free wheel. So you either have worn clutches or it's not adjusted correct to lock into forward or reverse.
@@SABsGarage thank you! You are right. My lining was badly worn from the previous owner. No pop rivets came with my lining! Should I use aluminum or steel....do you remember? Thanks for the tutorial it's very helpful!
Good job on the clutch AND the video. Probably one of the best I have seen!
Glad I found your video, ive been adjusting the clutch wrong.
Glad you found helpful. 🍻
I picked up an 80s Toro last week that evidently two other guys in the neighborhood had also tried to fix and gave up. It had no power in gear but had a strong engine and the PTO was still working. It was such a steal, I couldn't resist. After I got into it, I found the clutch disc was totally worn out and quite a lot of it was broken on the friction surface, and as you might imagine, they stopped making replacement parts quite a long time ago. I ended up making a rather elaborate mold for a full carbon clutch disc (just finished the prototype today) and plan to install tomorrow. I have leather working rivets from years ago that I was tempted to mold into the disc but ended up using the old disc as a template and drilled it out.
Before all of this, I'd been searching high and low for other mowers that have actual friction clutch discs, and let me tell you, it has not been a fruitful search! I'm guessing this was an industrial try-and-fail kind of thing, as I'd also looked at scraping the clutch altogether and just rigging up a tension-based idler to act as a clutch, but since I had the materials, might as well give it a shot. With the popularity of hydrostatic drives, it definitely gives great insight as to why these friction-based clutches seem to be ill-used solutions.
It's probably total overkill, but at least it will be the last clutch disc it'll ever need. 😁 I'm not too worried about it not holding together, just the copious amount of torque it'll have that wheelies might be a concern!
Great work! My recently inherited 16-G is barely moving forward and this is exactly what I was looking for. Now just waiting on the part to arrive!
Great video! You probably should have put a small amount of grease on the clutch cup splines before reassembly.
Good point! I was going to but didn't at first, then I saw in the book, so I did end up taking back apart and put grease on the splines. I should have looked in the book first... Thanks for Watching!
Where did you find the parts? Typing in the part # just seems to lead me to unknown part distributors I’m not sure I trust
I got mine from eBay, I searched with the part number that was in my book 040692. I think the seller was gravely_tractor_museum, I bought off him cause he sold the rivets with it.
Nice job. Love my 18g
Thanks 👍 They are great tractors!
IF you would wait too long and the rivets scrape the hub surface, can it be machined and still be functional (machining, surface, as in getting it flat again)? I'm talking about the face of the drive hub (the one on the No. 2 forward/reverse transmission shaft), not the cup/hub surface.
As long as it still has enough meat on it, I don't see any reason it couldn't be resurfaced. I was going to do this on mine to take the glazing off but to get it out is a pain. There are snap rings on the inside of the case and to get to them you have to split the case. If the rivets didn't cut into it to deep, I'd probably change the lining and run it.
@@SABsGarage I've been in the transmission on other 16G's, and it's quite a job to get into that. I know the hub has the inner c-clip retaining it, inside the case cover. I've ordered a new lining, and am gonna try cleaning the hub surface, even though it's a little grooved from rivet contact, and then cleaning up the trunnion cup side and installing the new clutch lining, and see what happens.
I think you'll be fine, Good luck!
Is this tractor designed to free wheel down hill while in drive? I test drove one today and it rolled to fast downhill "in gear" had to use the brake to slow it down. Is that normal? It also needs friction plates!
No, if the pedal/handle is locked in forward or reverse, it will not free wheel. So you either have worn clutches or it's not adjusted correct to lock into forward or reverse.
@@SABsGarage thank you! You are right. My lining was badly worn from the previous owner. No pop rivets came with my lining! Should I use aluminum or steel....do you remember? Thanks for the tutorial it's very helpful!
Stay away from Gravely I had to sell it. It was always broke down.
Thanks for a great to the point video ! lining kit Gravely # 40692
Thanks!