Good info, I just gotta add one little nugget of wisdom I've gained from wearing this stuff for a long time: If you plan on using body armor with any degree of confidence and mobility, you need to get off the couch and get to work. GOOD BODY ARMOR IS HEAVY. A few pounds doesn't seem like such a big deal, until you have to run with it on top of the loadout you're carrying. Relentless PT is required to operate in armor efficiently. If you can't run a mile carrying nothing at all, you probably can't walk further than a block or two wearing a full armor set. Also, wearing armor is going to change your shooting ergonomics considerably. I'd recommend purchasing a quality carrier that you can use for training as well. Get used to the bulk and the weight of the armor, and learn how to shoot with your armor. It's completely different from what most people are used to. Body armor changes how you hold your rifle, and depending on how you carry your pistol, it may change the way you draw. Train with it. Run with it. Learn to live with it. Also remember, your body armor isn't a magical guardian angel. Your main goal should remain NOT GETTING SHOT.
Yeah I constantly do squats and calve raises, I’m on a 24/7 cycle of endlessly being sore and recovering then back to squats etc. it’s an easy exercise I can just put my tablet on the bed and then I can do squats fast and after like 500-700 I’m done and super sore. It’s solely for this purpose, in case we have to hike for 12 miles with 80 pound load outs, it will separate people from their soul.
@@MobileAura it's good to train your body if you plan on carrying this stuff. I highly recommend getting out there and doing a ruck march. It's a completely different world. If you want to see where you're at physically for wearing a full load, put your gear on (or equivalent weight worn in the same position) and see how far you can run/march with it. You'll never know if you're ready to do it until you actually go out and do it. It changes the way you move, so just running and just lifting/squatting/etc is nothing at all like carrying a 60-90lb loadout with armor. Keep up the work though, it will come in handy. I just did my 10mi ruck march + run'n'gun saturday and my whole body still hurts. It was worth it though, it exposed my weak points. My left shoulder (shot through with 7.62x39 5 years ago) still needs more muscle to keep up.
Gotta add to take your time too, because I’ve heard horror stories from numerous SARCs and PJ’s alike is that too much stress on the knees is a good way to blow them out. Get used to your gear, but know running FULL kit (like 13 mags for whatever reason) can and will put stress on your joints. Just be weary, ladies and gents.
#1 thing I wish I knew about armor before I bought body armor: Level 3 is NOT rated for 5.56, probably the most common rifle threat in North America. Just because it can stop a BIGGER bullet, doesn't mean it will stop a small, fast bullet. Check for 5.56 resistance specifically, even if the armor is rated for bigger rifle rounds.
@@casey99678 no, it will stop 5.56 steel-core 62 grain bullets (3100+ fps) from a 22" barrel bolt action, at only 7 meters away. From the same rifle (3250 fps), the standard 55 grain FMJ will sail right through AR500 NIJ3 at 20 - meters.
City Prepping, I’m writing to you, just because I should, because what I’m going to say is the brutal truth. I’m no stranger to tactical gear, prepping g, Law Enforcement, etc. but when I’m not certain of something, I rely on your channel to give me information that I’m not aware of. You “teach” in understandable language and in a tone not boring. You cut out all the bull shit and give straight talk. You have one of the top 5 channels in the cyber world. I. Just wanna let you know your are very much appreciated and hope you continue down the same path your on. Thank you, KC FALKOR TACTICAL
Look man, I hear people talk down on steel armor a lot, and I get it... but like, the fact it doesn't expire after 5 years is a pretty huge deal that everyone seems to be underappreciating. If I want an emergency armor that I can pull out of a bag and know it'll work, with steel, I don't have to wonder whether or not I bought it 4 years ago or 6.
My only thing with steel is I need some sort of soft Kevlar as well, because the steel doesn’t take as much of the shock wave as the ceramic stuff does
I have worn body armor for decades, and currently use either IIIA for concealment wear or III+ for tactical use. I tell everyone, buy the BEST product you can afford - what is your life worth?!? Also consider weight of the vest/plates and or cummerbund. My tactical rig is a First Spear Strandhogg carrier with 10x12 ShotStop Duritium GT2 plates, rifle and pistol mags, med kit and Camelbak, with a total weight of 15 pounds. VS... Just 2 AR500 plates weigh about 17 pounds, without the carrier and needed accessories!! Level IV plates are rated for 30.06 AP rounds, but are not really necessary. I recommend III+ because it will defeat all commonly found 5.56, 7.62x39 and 7.62x51 rounds.
Body Armor Guide: 10 Things To Know Before You Buy It Timestamps 1:10 Purpose of the Body Armor 2:00 Understanding NIJ Ratings Type IIA (9mm; .40 S&W) Type II (9mm; .357 Magnum) Types IIIA (.357 SIG; .44 Magnum) Type III (Rifles: up to 7.62mm; M80) Type IV (Armor-Piercing Rifle, or AP rounds; .30; M2 AP) Bonus Type III Plus 3:10 Stand Alone vs ICW body armor 4:40 If the bullet travels faster, the armor may not stop the bullet despite the armor stating it can handle the bullet based on its weight rating. 4:55 III+ (Three Plus). 5:07 Spalling (Bullet splash). Fragments of the bullet upon impact of the body armor. Different armor and manufacturers may include Spalling protective feature of the body armor to decrease spalling. Make sure to read up on the effects of spalling for your purchase decision. 6:05 Types of Armor Material Make sure you check the NIJ rating to know which level you need to defend against which specific calibers of ammo/cartridges. 6:25 Material: Kevlar (lightweight/flexible/concealable) Good against guns and knife attacks. 7:05 material: Steel-hard metal (Cost effective armor/Heavier/up to 30 pounds/will you use/wear this frequently?) Make sure to get the right spalling level when getting armor. 8:18 Material: Ceramic (Thicker/more expensive/lighter than steel/cannot withstand multiple hits to safe area/shorter shelf life/less durable than steel plates/price has dropped over the years) 9:05 Material: Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene Available in Level III and IV. Newer type of body armor. More expensive than ceramic, lighter and less thick. Can float in water. Can take multiple shots, but less durable like Ceramic in taking shots to the same spot. (Thinnest but most expensive option) If you need to wear armor for a long time, this is an option. 9:55 Cuts and Shapes of Armor - SAPI style cut - Swimmer or Shooters cut - "Square" cut (Not recommended) 10:05 SAPI Cut. Most common cut and gives good mobility 10:19 Swimmers/Shooters Cut. more motion at top of armor but less coverage. 10:30 Square cut. Limits range of motion, not recommended for wearing, but good for backpack or luggage/laptop/messenger bag, etc. 10:43 Side Plates (make sure your chest rig/carrier can hold side plates 10:58 Flat vs Curved Armor Flat is not as comfortable as Curved. Curved can fit the contours of your body better. 11:10 Sizing of Body Armor When measuring size, measure from your nipple to nipple. The wider the plate, the taller the plate. To find your notch, trace your sternum up until you find a soft spot and applying pressure near your chest makes you choke. It's important to find armor that can protect your vitals. 11:50 Weight & Maneuverability of Body Armor Don't focus only on pricing, but consider the impact of weight for your survival and mobility. All body armor 'will' reduce your mobility slightly, a little, or moderately. 12:50 How Long Will Body Armor Last? (Shelf life and Actual Use) Short answer: How often has it been used? Maintained? How long has it been stored? Average life is 5 years or more but depends on your answers to the questions from Short Answer above. Soft Body Armor: 5 years (Average) Steel Plates: 20+ years (Average) 13:28 Pricing of Body Armor Don't go cheap on body armor (my personal opinion not City Prep) Buy based on your needs. 14:35 What/Which Body Armor is Right for you? Want Concealable/Not stand out? (Kevlar) Durable? (Steel) Rifle/Speed rounds? (Ceramic/polyethylene) Expect armor piercing rounds or AP rounds? (Level 4 armor) 15:22 Conclusion
thanks CP, only thing missing from this being a 10/10 Intro to Body Armor video is some exposition on the carriers. Overall really great, a video I can send to anyone asking me about the basics.
I prefer things to be scalable and modular. It's like firearms in that what would he most effective is impractical for daily use. Sure, a rifle is more effective than a handgun, but the pistol is more practical to conceal. Same with armor. That's why I now keep concealeable LVL 2 vests, with plate carriers I can wear over them if needed. That protects me from the most common rounds used with concealeability, but can don something to protect against rifles, too. Alot of cops go this way, as well.
I chose ceramic, due to how it can take hits and keep trucking if needed. I am huge into lighter weight materials, and after feeling a bunch of my buds carriers with steel I decided that was too heavy. I would have gotten the new fancy stuff but ceramic will suit my needs
Steel can take plenty of hits. It’s just heavier . I run in my steel setup few times a week . I think it’s about 16lbs my ceramic setup is 11.5 or so . World of difference
Thanks for the information. I wear armor every day and can say it's a hassle when you first start out. I live in an area where there's lots of hunting and not just deer. Most deer rifles are in the 30-06 or 270 class. The level 4 plates should stop those, however there are several elk hunters and most use the 300 Winchester Magnum and 338 Winchester Magnum. That cartridge would blow through any of the plates you have. For me and my prepping planning, I'm going with the concealable type armor because most will not know I have it on and I can work in it. I do have steal armor but would only go with that if needed.
Great list of attributes for consideration at the beginning of the video. Given that armor cannot be worn without a plate carrier, however, I would have gone a bit further and discussed some general attributes about plate carriers as well. No point getting the best plates with the worst carrier. Even something as basic as discussing the fasteners (i.e. tubes vs. velcro) and how they contribute to the relative ease/difficulty of donning/doffing the armor would have been good info for newbies.
I picked up some Duritium armor from Shotstop. It’s rated GT2 (green tip) multi curve, just below level 4, and able to defeat the newest M855a1 and SS109 rounds. It’s 3.8 lbs per plate, costs $650 and comes with 15 year warranty. Buy the best for peace of mind.
Awsome job and great information on body armor. Definatly a must see for anyone planning to purchase armor. Thanks City Prepping, awsomejob as always my friend
Technically, “spalling” is what happens to the back of the plate upon bullet impact. The process of bullet deformation and disintegration due to impact to the front of the plate is called “fragmentation.” But these days, spalling is used interchangeably, to the chagrin of engineers and linguists everywhere.
Ceramic plates are very resilient to temperature changes and dropping. Look up the NIJ testing standards for certification, a lot of the "weaknesses" of ceramic plates are myths.
Thank toy sir, learned alot by watching this vid, I was first thinking of what’s cheapest, but now from the knowledge you just let out plus lots of knowledge in the comments, lets me know that comfortably and function is more important than price.
Hesco 4401 and rma 1155 for the best budget. Only downsides are weight and single curve. Hesco is lighter and thinner but only slightly and is harder to find.
I’ll have to re-evaluate my armor build: I have 3 layers in my body armor: Front & back. 2 layers on the sides. All are layered in bubble wrap between layers. While the bubble wrap might not seem like much, it’s cushioning is key & stability.
Just stay away from AR500 Armor (the company not the steel) and you’ll be ok AR500 Armor was the first place I bought armor and a plate carrier. It was just cause at the time I was uneducated on the topic and it was the first company I saw (probably cause of all the money they spend on ads instead of customer service). Since then I’ve upgraded and am pretty happy. To anyone considering AR500 Armor just read the reviews and/or the comment section on any one of their ads.
Well done and worth reviewing before a purchase as much info was covered. Sweet, no annoying music, stupid ego crap or wasted time getting to the information . I despise bed wasting a viewers time with that crap.
Great video, after thinking about getting a plate carrier I decided on steel. Mostly buying it if there's ever a societal breakdown, so I'm mostly looking for longevity and dependability
I'm a pretty big gun-guy but I've never been a prepper or into the tactical stuff. I, like many many others, have always thought that the tacticool stuff was really cringey but with the way ALL governments all around the world have been acting and with our new president, there's a different feeling in the air. I'm worried that we might be looking at Civil War 2 in the near future and I recently purchased some body armor. I got one of the budget loadouts. A "concealment" carrier and two level 3 plates with anti-spall coating for $250. $250 is all I can justify spending right now on something I'm hoping I'll never have to use but I'm learning a lot from videos like this and their comment sections. I fully intent to buy a better rig with level 4 plates and a more typical carrier that is more comfortable, worn on the outside and can carry attachments when I can. I just have to wait until I'm able to afford the $700+ without worrying about other expenses but until then, I'm happy I have SOMETHING that will help keep me alive if I absolutely need it.
Great information… do one on sizing.. whether your 5’7 or 6’6 with the same chest size… which plate would you get? Which carrier is best for you?? These are questions I can barely find true information on UA-cam with visuals 👍🏼👍🏼
I can almost respect the fact you managed to avoid the immense rabbit hole that is the “ceramic/poly vs Steel” conversation. I’ve seen threads upon threads of companies and grunts or former SoF alike argue about the two. Just pick something. Educate yourself on all pros and cons. Because EVERYTHING has them. Just be knowledgeable on how those will affect you.
Those 'wrong' carriers become a better option when grandma comes over and needs take a spot in the guard duty rotation. And meanwhile set them up as training rigs.
My first armor was Second Chance level III. I wore it for eight hours or more at a time I had no problems with it. But that was many years and pounds ago.
I never saw an issue with dropping them. I threw mine around in the service all the time and they never cracked ... especially in the flak jacket ... itd be awfully hard to drop them hard enough to damage them. They do crumble like crazy when shot though. Ive hit one with a 300 Win mag and the thing vaporized the bullet internally ... but the inside of the hole crumbled leaving a ~2" cavity in the plate. All the surrounding material continues to shake free. Plate is f'ed at that point. Im sure the rest is spidered with cracks throughout. Its all held together by some nylon outer skin is probably why it didnt completely fall apart.
Any bullet that would spall rather than bounce off would be lead, and a bunch of dispersed lead fragments with some copper jacket should not be too hard to stop, probably a kevlar spall containment sleeve would solve the problem
So I’m pretty sure I need something to hold off a 30 mm depleted uranium auto cannon from say a circling A10 for a while , plus I still have to be able to use hand to hand combat and a tanto , something I can also do a number 2 in?
You need to adjust your body armor higher on your torso. You're protecting your belly over your upper chest and back. Top of front plate should touch your collarbone and top of back plate should be just under your atlas vertebra.
UWMHPE is used as a backer material in Ceramic composite plates. They are called Ceramic Composite plates, because it is a Composite of Ceramic and either fiberglass or UHMWPE as the backer material that actually captures the projectile fragmentation. As uncommon as it is, there are some level 3/4 UHMWPE plates that do not use a Ceramic strike face, (termed Pure-Poly plates), but many Ceramic Composite plates employ the use of UHMWPE. Ceramic Composite plates that use a fiberglass backer are good at what they do, but much heavier, and are typically found in models designed for customers looking for armor on a tight budget. Any Ceramic Composite plate in the mid to high range of quality will have UHMWPE as it's backer material. It is a superior product, with superior performance at a lower weight, and thinner profile than what fiberglass can offer, especially when it is *pressed* using industrial hydraulic press equipment.
This was great thank you so much! I bought some a little while back first time, and did some research first. However i was still a little unsure i bought the right one for me. After seeing this and "using" it im happy i made the right purchase.
"It can take multiple hits and is still useable" No, it's not. While the steel itself may no longer be compromised, whatever antispall coating or sleeve is used in conjunction with that plate will have been compromised, and typically in fewer rounds than ceramics. The moment this layer is compromised, your steel armor ceases to be effective at protecting the wearer, because the resulting spall drastically increases risk of injury. Mind you, you also refrained from speaking to what happens to steel plates when they're impacted at anything but a direct angle, like, say, 45 degrees. The jacket will typically separate from the core, but the core itself will often continue to travel parallel to the plate's surface, regardless of the anti-spall measures taken. Also, the generalized statement regarding to armor lifespans is incorrect. The NIJ standard varies depending on the individual armor. This is why ceramics with 5 and 10 year warrantied lifespans exist. With this in mind, the point is "Warrantied lifespan". The reality is, armor, especially hard armor, will likely never lose its efficacy in the hands of the average citizen, especially if they store it properly. Level IV ceramics that have been stored properly will often last well in excess of its noted lifespan. Why? Because the lifespans as set forth by the NIJ are with typical austere operating conditions in mind, so plates subjected to regular use, and constant changes in environmental conditions (hot, cold, dry, humid, direct exposure to water, etc). This may seem like a silly thing to point out, but I've seen many of the ill-informed use lifespan as an argument to keep steel, despite its abysmal protective capabilities, over more viable options, like ceramic and PE plates.
I realize that we're talking about protecting upper body mass (former LEO here), and it's the best target to target, but the criminals out there know this, and they are training to target head shots, even knowing it's a smaller target and the most missed. If trying to protect yourself in a riot situation, a kevlar helmet is also required. Protect those critical arteries if possible.
Honestly, I don't want to get into specifics, but, if I were purchasing armor, as a combat veteran who has used armor, actually used it, if you get the jizzt, I would purchase Level IV triple curve steel plates with full coat, sleeves, and trauma pads. Double up on the pads if you can, not all carriers will allow it. Make sure you ACTUALLY WEAR YOUR ARMOR! Level IV steel plates, sleeves, and pads are HEAVY! It takes time to get used to.
Or just buy lvl 4 multi curve ceramic composite and not have to wear trauma pads or spall sleeves. Better performance, less weight. The "as a veteran" doesnt mean anything.
You forgot one very important thing. NIJ 06 specifies safe zone of impact for rifle rounds to be 3” from each edge of PE or ceramic panels. That means, safe coverage that actually protects you is about 20 % of whole area of body armor. Steel, on the other hand, protects you up to 5 mm or 1/5” from edge. That is about 88 % of whole area. That means, that for same protection as steel you would have 4 times bigger weight for ceramic of PE panel. These days, you can even opt for Armox 600 or Armox Advance, which are thinner than Armox 500, therefore lighter (about 6 pounds with coating). Also, there is one very important aspect - steel has much lower trauma effect than ceramic or PE, which means, that even if bullet will notmpass through, actual schock caused by bulge on panel against your body is higher. Steel no bulge. Ceramic or PE - huge bulge. In any case, don’t forget trauma pads. You absolutely have to use those, regarding the type of body armor. Which, for ceramic or PE means more bulk (about 1/3” more)
Eyes , ears , nose protection are very important in over sea deployment. In southeast asia state department personel are being dried of supply most needed are water making like dehumidier with good filter because flood infested water most of earth already
I just got my condor mopc with steel plates last weekend. If anybody is reading this before you buy your armor, DO NOT buy steel plates . My vest is 33 pounds , and I'm pretending I'm gonna fight in this?!. No . Buy better plates guys. On the other hand I can work out in it
@@lanceskopik2928 When I bought a 5.11 tactec, I went with steel Level 3 plates because they were almost exactly 10lbs a piece. That weighted them near identical to non ballistic workout plates. A few times with those, and the next purchase was poly's instead for real use, steels for workouts.
Let me just say that I feel comfortable about purchasing my body armor after watching this video. I have 2 questions, though. The 1st can I interchange armor for one plate carrier. For example, if I brought one plate carrier with a ceramic plate, can I purchase a steel plate at a later date, or would I have to get a whole new plate carrier for the steel armor. 2nd, what would you recommend for a civilian who just wants to get the best bang for their buck? Like a do all type of armored plate.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE SPEND THE EXTRA FOR CERAMIC OR BETTER. The steel are cheaper and have a rubber "usually" coat. It doesn't capture the round. You get sprawling of the projectile. Your chin, arms and maybe legs are exposed. Save and get the good stuff
"Spalling" also good advice about that, most uninformed people will get a bare plate that's cheap, however like you said, in the very unlikely event they ever get shot, there is almost a guarantee that spall and frag will go through the cheap plate carrier they have and hit neck, legs, feet ect. Ceramic isn't needed if they still want steel though, amazing spall jackets are out there, as well as some companies that make very very good coatings. These days, ceramic plates are about 130 a piece though, so I take your advice and go with them anyways.
I'd like to add one thing; if you aren't physically capable of running armor, you are too weak, or you are morbidly obese like 35% of Americans, you might want to consider rigorous PT prior to considering buying anything with weight
To add, the shoulder straps can be quite thick with padding and cumbersome to shoulder a rifle, especially if it doesn't have an adjustable buttstock. Try to find a model that doesn't have a buckle around that area. Also, I fully agree on the weight assessment. My primary rig with front/rear plates, tourniquet, and three loaded mags weights 22 pounds. I do have lighter plates but require a supremely durable system for SHTF. To keep weight down and reduce profile, I keep my trauma kit on my first line battle belt. I strongly recommend not getting a double decker magazine pouch. When prone, the extra thickness is very uncomfortable. YMMV.
I find it quite amusing that when discussing plastics with environmental experts they say it wont break down in the environment for thousands of years. But when you speak to a body armour vendor they say your kevlar vest will be out of date and wont work in 8-10 years. I would always practise caution, and abide by date stamps because your life is on the line, but I did see an interesting video where a guy went to the range with some fairly ancient 20+year old police soft body armour, shot the shit out of it, and that ragged piece of crap still stopped everything. I wouldnt WANT to bet my life on it, but if I only had 50bucks, well there it is.
Yeah I dont see 1" thick steel coated in what is essentially truck bed liner ever "expiring" Maybe if you store it at the bottom of the bay for a decade or something ...
Optimal performance is 5 years for plastic armor including ceramic composites that contain plastic. That is different than how long to be fully converted to starch by bacteria. Tires are rated at 10 years but their performance can be reduced in as little as 3 years if not properly stored. That doesn't mean the tire will be biodegraded this century. If the armor is stored in a cool dark place with 30% humidity it is going to last a lot longer than if it is being worn daily with heat, sweat, dirt, sunlight, rain, friction and winter weather.
you see the damage to the clay behind it that's what you should think about that's bruises and broken chest bones we as humans aren't bullet proof period you are going to feel that impact even from a 9mm
You can view the armor we discussed here: bit.ly/35bnNWx
You should make a video on obtaining antibiotics, legally ofc
This is the best video on body armor I’ve ever seen. Good job brother.
can felons buy body armour online.? Asking for a Friend..
@shared harwood I will do an independent review of them shortly.
@shared harwood lol
Good info, I just gotta add one little nugget of wisdom I've gained from wearing this stuff for a long time:
If you plan on using body armor with any degree of confidence and mobility, you need to get off the couch and get to work. GOOD BODY ARMOR IS HEAVY. A few pounds doesn't seem like such a big deal, until you have to run with it on top of the loadout you're carrying. Relentless PT is required to operate in armor efficiently. If you can't run a mile carrying nothing at all, you probably can't walk further than a block or two wearing a full armor set. Also, wearing armor is going to change your shooting ergonomics considerably. I'd recommend purchasing a quality carrier that you can use for training as well. Get used to the bulk and the weight of the armor, and learn how to shoot with your armor. It's completely different from what most people are used to. Body armor changes how you hold your rifle, and depending on how you carry your pistol, it may change the way you draw. Train with it. Run with it. Learn to live with it. Also remember, your body armor isn't a magical guardian angel. Your main goal should remain NOT GETTING SHOT.
Yeah I constantly do squats and calve raises, I’m on a 24/7 cycle of endlessly being sore and recovering then back to squats etc. it’s an easy exercise I can just put my tablet on the bed and then I can do squats fast and after like 500-700 I’m done and super sore. It’s solely for this purpose, in case we have to hike for 12 miles with 80 pound load outs, it will separate people from their soul.
@@MobileAura it's good to train your body if you plan on carrying this stuff. I highly recommend getting out there and doing a ruck march. It's a completely different world. If you want to see where you're at physically for wearing a full load, put your gear on (or equivalent weight worn in the same position) and see how far you can run/march with it. You'll never know if you're ready to do it until you actually go out and do it. It changes the way you move, so just running and just lifting/squatting/etc is nothing at all like carrying a 60-90lb loadout with armor. Keep up the work though, it will come in handy. I just did my 10mi ruck march + run'n'gun saturday and my whole body still hurts. It was worth it though, it exposed my weak points. My left shoulder (shot through with 7.62x39 5 years ago) still needs more muscle to keep up.
@@borisvolynov992 Бляд! Спасиба!
Gotta add to take your time too, because I’ve heard horror stories from numerous SARCs and PJ’s alike is that too much stress on the knees is a good way to blow them out. Get used to your gear, but know running FULL kit (like 13 mags for whatever reason) can and will put stress on your joints. Just be weary, ladies and gents.
Thank you, makes perfect sense. Great added information.
#1 thing I wish I knew about armor before I bought body armor: Level 3 is NOT rated for 5.56, probably the most common rifle threat in North America. Just because it can stop a BIGGER bullet, doesn't mean it will stop a small, fast bullet. Check for 5.56 resistance specifically, even if the armor is rated for bigger rifle rounds.
It will just not out of a 20inch i believe
Level III will stop 5.56 fmj 762x39 fmj and 7.62x51 fmj
@@casey99678 no, it will stop 5.56 steel-core 62 grain bullets (3100+ fps) from a 22" barrel bolt action, at only 7 meters away. From the same rifle (3250 fps), the standard 55 grain FMJ will sail right through AR500 NIJ3 at 20 - meters.
Depends on the distance and barrel length typically, but for some like cheap level 3 plates, 5.56 (green tip) is a real bad day
@@strongestgamer2501 is that the FMJ 55 grain?
City Prepping, I’m writing to you, just because I should, because what I’m going to say is the brutal truth. I’m no stranger to tactical gear, prepping g, Law Enforcement, etc. but when I’m not certain of something, I rely on your channel to give me information that I’m not aware of. You “teach” in understandable language and in a tone not boring. You cut out all the bull shit and give straight talk. You have one of the top 5 channels in the cyber world. I. Just wanna let you know your are very much appreciated and hope you continue down the same path your on.
Thank you,
KC FALKOR TACTICAL
Look man, I hear people talk down on steel armor a lot, and I get it... but like, the fact it doesn't expire after 5 years is a pretty huge deal that everyone seems to be underappreciating. If I want an emergency armor that I can pull out of a bag and know it'll work, with steel, I don't have to wonder whether or not I bought it 4 years ago or 6.
My only thing with steel is I need some sort of soft Kevlar as well, because the steel doesn’t take as much of the shock wave as the ceramic stuff does
Steel is notorious for shattering the bullet and fragments bouncing into the face, neck or groin area
@@the_hybred648wrap it, duct or gorilla tape. There’s videos of it being extremely effective.
Keeps you alive though@@the_hybred648
@@the_hybred648Trauma pads and a thick layer of solid tissue covering the front of the plate reduces the risks.
I have worn body armor for decades, and currently use either IIIA for concealment wear or III+ for tactical use.
I tell everyone, buy the BEST product you can afford - what is your life worth?!?
Also consider weight of the vest/plates and or cummerbund.
My tactical rig is a First Spear Strandhogg carrier with 10x12 ShotStop Duritium GT2 plates, rifle and pistol mags, med kit and Camelbak, with a total weight of 15 pounds.
VS...
Just 2 AR500 plates weigh about 17 pounds, without the carrier and needed accessories!!
Level IV plates are rated for 30.06 AP rounds, but are not really necessary. I recommend III+ because it will defeat all commonly found 5.56, 7.62x39 and 7.62x51 rounds.
Is it normal for soft armor to get creases?
Glad I have a few Garands 😉
Body Armor Guide: 10 Things To Know Before You Buy It
Timestamps
1:10 Purpose of the Body Armor
2:00 Understanding NIJ Ratings
Type IIA (9mm; .40 S&W)
Type II (9mm; .357 Magnum)
Types IIIA (.357 SIG; .44 Magnum)
Type III (Rifles: up to 7.62mm; M80)
Type IV (Armor-Piercing Rifle, or AP rounds; .30; M2 AP)
Bonus Type III Plus
3:10 Stand Alone vs ICW body armor
4:40 If the bullet travels faster, the armor may not stop the bullet despite the armor stating it can handle the bullet based on its weight rating.
4:55 III+ (Three Plus).
5:07 Spalling (Bullet splash). Fragments of the bullet upon impact of the body armor. Different armor and manufacturers may include Spalling protective feature of the body armor to decrease spalling. Make sure to read up on the effects of spalling for your purchase decision.
6:05 Types of Armor Material
Make sure you check the NIJ rating to know which level you need to defend against which specific calibers of ammo/cartridges.
6:25 Material: Kevlar (lightweight/flexible/concealable)
Good against guns and knife attacks.
7:05 material: Steel-hard metal (Cost effective armor/Heavier/up to 30 pounds/will you use/wear this frequently?) Make sure to get the right spalling level when getting armor.
8:18 Material: Ceramic (Thicker/more expensive/lighter than steel/cannot withstand multiple hits to safe area/shorter shelf life/less durable than steel plates/price has dropped over the years)
9:05 Material: Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene
Available in Level III and IV. Newer type of body armor. More expensive than ceramic, lighter and less thick. Can float in water. Can take multiple shots, but less durable like Ceramic in taking shots to the same spot.
(Thinnest but most expensive option) If you need to wear armor for a long time, this is an option.
9:55 Cuts and Shapes of Armor
- SAPI style cut
- Swimmer or Shooters cut
- "Square" cut (Not recommended)
10:05 SAPI Cut. Most common cut and gives good mobility
10:19 Swimmers/Shooters Cut. more motion at top of armor but less coverage.
10:30 Square cut. Limits range of motion, not recommended for wearing, but good for backpack or luggage/laptop/messenger bag, etc.
10:43 Side Plates (make sure your chest rig/carrier can hold side plates
10:58 Flat vs Curved Armor
Flat is not as comfortable as Curved.
Curved can fit the contours of your body better.
11:10 Sizing of Body Armor
When measuring size, measure from your nipple to nipple.
The wider the plate, the taller the plate.
To find your notch, trace your sternum up until you find a soft spot and applying pressure near your chest makes you choke. It's important to find armor that can protect your vitals.
11:50 Weight & Maneuverability of Body Armor
Don't focus only on pricing, but consider the impact of weight for your survival and mobility. All body armor 'will' reduce your mobility slightly, a little, or moderately.
12:50 How Long Will Body Armor Last? (Shelf life and Actual Use)
Short answer: How often has it been used? Maintained? How long has it been stored?
Average life is 5 years or more but depends on your answers to the questions from Short Answer above.
Soft Body Armor: 5 years (Average)
Steel Plates: 20+ years (Average)
13:28 Pricing of Body Armor
Don't go cheap on body armor (my personal opinion not City Prep)
Buy based on your needs.
14:35 What/Which Body Armor is Right for you?
Want Concealable/Not stand out? (Kevlar)
Durable? (Steel)
Rifle/Speed rounds? (Ceramic/polyethylene)
Expect armor piercing rounds or AP rounds? (Level 4 armor)
15:22 Conclusion
too much coffee?
GOAT
He needs to do chapters on his videos. Thank you for this service 🙏🏽
Wow!
thanks CP, only thing missing from this being a 10/10 Intro to Body Armor video is some exposition on the carriers. Overall really great, a video I can send to anyone asking me about the basics.
I prefer things to be scalable and modular.
It's like firearms in that what would he most effective is impractical for daily use.
Sure, a rifle is more effective than a handgun, but the pistol is more practical to conceal.
Same with armor. That's why I now keep concealeable LVL 2 vests, with plate carriers I can wear over them if needed. That protects me from the most common rounds used with concealeability, but can don something to protect against rifles, too.
Alot of cops go this way, as well.
Looking for recommendations on this. What vests/plate carriers would be your recommendation?
I chose ceramic, due to how it can take hits and keep trucking if needed. I am huge into lighter weight materials, and after feeling a bunch of my buds carriers with steel I decided that was too heavy. I would have gotten the new fancy stuff but ceramic will suit my needs
Have steel now. Looking for a lightweight ceramic that won’t break the bank? Any suggestions?
@@ap7655tacticon . I have a set for the whole family level IV for price of 1 setup from some places .
Steel can take plenty of hits. It’s just heavier . I run in my steel setup few times a week . I think it’s about 16lbs my ceramic setup is 11.5 or so . World of difference
I'm preparing to buy my tactical gear and this video is extremely helpful. Thank you for the info and sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the information.
I wear armor every day and can say it's a hassle when you first start out.
I live in an area where there's lots of hunting and not just deer. Most deer rifles are in the 30-06 or 270 class. The level 4 plates should stop those, however there are several elk hunters and most use the 300 Winchester Magnum and 338 Winchester Magnum. That cartridge would blow through any of the plates you have.
For me and my prepping planning, I'm going with the concealable type armor because most will not know I have it on and I can work in it. I do have steal armor but would only go with that if needed.
I’ve seen a few videos of level IV ceramic stopping .300 Win Mag and .338 Lapua Magnum…
Always wear blaze orange when in the woods
Very well narrated. I used steel in the mil, but I couldn't stand the weight after about 4 hrs. Poly would be my choice.
How did you know this was what I needed! Thanks for this valuable info. You’re my favorite prepper, brother.
Great list of attributes for consideration at the beginning of the video. Given that armor cannot be worn without a plate carrier, however, I would have gone a bit further and discussed some general attributes about plate carriers as well. No point getting the best plates with the worst carrier. Even something as basic as discussing the fasteners (i.e. tubes vs. velcro) and how they contribute to the relative ease/difficulty of donning/doffing the armor would have been good info for newbies.
I picked up some Duritium armor from Shotstop. It’s rated GT2 (green tip) multi curve, just below level 4, and able to defeat the newest M855a1 and SS109 rounds. It’s 3.8 lbs per plate, costs $650 and comes with 15 year warranty. Buy the best for peace of mind.
Not 308 correct?
If it can stop ss109 I'm sure it can handle 308 fmj
Awsome job and great information on body armor. Definatly a must see for anyone planning to purchase armor. Thanks City Prepping, awsomejob as always my friend
Definitely*
Awesome*
Agreed!! I’m glad I found this video. I definitely learned a lot!
Technically, “spalling” is what happens to the back of the plate upon bullet impact. The process of bullet deformation and disintegration due to impact to the front of the plate is called “fragmentation.” But these days, spalling is used interchangeably, to the chagrin of engineers and linguists everywhere.
I mean, if there's no penetration there's no spalling either
Ceramic defends better against high velocity projectiles, especially high projectiles.
Excellent primer on Body Armor. Good job.
Awesome video, learned alot. Concise and informative. Looking to grab my first rig and this video helped a noob like me immensely.Thank you.
Ceramic plates are very resilient to temperature changes and dropping. Look up the NIJ testing standards for certification, a lot of the "weaknesses" of ceramic plates are myths.
Thank toy sir, learned alot by watching this vid, I was first thinking of what’s cheapest, but now from the knowledge you just let out plus lots of knowledge in the comments, lets me know that comfortably and function is more important than price.
Fantastic video! Presentation of data and information was well done with no wasteful fluff. Thanks for doing this!
Hesco 4401 and rma 1155 for the best budget. Only downsides are weight and single curve. Hesco is lighter and thinner but only slightly and is harder to find.
I’ll have to re-evaluate my armor build: I have 3 layers in my body armor: Front & back. 2 layers on the sides. All are layered in bubble wrap between layers. While the bubble wrap might not seem like much, it’s cushioning is key & stability.
Just stay away from AR500 Armor (the company not the steel) and you’ll be ok
AR500 Armor was the first place I bought armor and a plate carrier. It was just cause at the time I was uneducated on the topic and it was the first company I saw (probably cause of all the money they spend on ads instead of customer service). Since then I’ve upgraded and am pretty happy. To anyone considering AR500 Armor just read the reviews and/or the comment section on any one of their ads.
Their carriers aren't bad, just overpriced. I got gifted a Veritas with cummerbund and its held up fairly well
Well done and worth reviewing before a purchase as much info was covered. Sweet, no annoying music, stupid ego crap or wasted time getting to the information . I despise bed wasting a viewers time with that crap.
Thanks. You answered lots of questions I have as I decide how to improve my level of protection
Excellent video! Thanks for the clear, straightforward, pragmatic perspective on armor selection.
best video I have seen on body armor. Thank you
you should always train with steel armor and save the ceramic armor for the missions so you'll be super fast
Beautiful
The rock lee methodology
Understood Guy Sensei
@@CT-uz3bf if you train for a bike race with a crappy mountain bike, youll be super fast when you do the race with a 7000 dollar road bike
@@deltashot5608 Mannn, my $800 mountain bike got stolen a few years ago. I miss that bike.
Great video, after thinking about getting a plate carrier I decided on steel. Mostly buying it if there's ever a societal breakdown, so I'm mostly looking for longevity and dependability
You probably won’t have to wait to long considering our current state.
I'm a pretty big gun-guy but I've never been a prepper or into the tactical stuff. I, like many many others, have always thought that the tacticool stuff was really cringey but with the way ALL governments all around the world have been acting and with our new president, there's a different feeling in the air. I'm worried that we might be looking at Civil War 2 in the near future and I recently purchased some body armor.
I got one of the budget loadouts. A "concealment" carrier and two level 3 plates with anti-spall coating for $250.
$250 is all I can justify spending right now on something I'm hoping I'll never have to use but I'm learning a lot from videos like this and their comment sections. I fully intent to buy a better rig with level 4 plates and a more typical carrier that is more comfortable, worn on the outside and can carry attachments when I can. I just have to wait until I'm able to afford the $700+ without worrying about other expenses but until then, I'm happy I have SOMETHING that will help keep me alive if I absolutely need it.
Great information… do one on sizing.. whether your 5’7 or 6’6 with the same chest size… which plate would you get?
Which carrier is best for you??
These are questions I can barely find true information on UA-cam with visuals
👍🏼👍🏼
I can almost respect the fact you managed to avoid the immense rabbit hole that is the “ceramic/poly vs Steel” conversation.
I’ve seen threads upon threads of companies and grunts or former SoF alike argue about the two.
Just pick something. Educate yourself on all pros and cons. Because EVERYTHING has them. Just be knowledgeable on how those will affect you.
This cleared alot of my questions about armor, great video.
Excellent, informative, concise and well done video. Thank you sir!
Great info. I am currently building up my set up so this will help me with it.
Level IV Ceramic or Hesco special threat plates.
Best video so far. Sucks I see this months after I bought my first vest and armor.
I bought a lot of wrong gear as well at the beginning :(
Those 'wrong' carriers become a better option when grandma comes over and needs take a spot in the guard duty rotation.
And meanwhile set them up as training rigs.
My first armor was Second Chance level III. I wore it for eight hours or more at a time I had no problems with it. But that was many years and pounds ago.
Ceramic isn't as fragile as a lot of people think and NIJ tests are done after temperature cycling and dropping the plates.
Don't get steel.
@HOOCH D Got it.. so get both lol.
I never saw an issue with dropping them. I threw mine around in the service all the time and they never cracked ... especially in the flak jacket ... itd be awfully hard to drop them hard enough to damage them. They do crumble like crazy when shot though. Ive hit one with a 300 Win mag and the thing vaporized the bullet internally ... but the inside of the hole crumbled leaving a ~2" cavity in the plate. All the surrounding material continues to shake free. Plate is f'ed at that point. Im sure the rest is spidered with cracks throughout. Its all held together by some nylon outer skin is probably why it didnt completely fall apart.
Even if ceramic is not too fragile, steel still has unparalleled durability
@@Enter_channel_name watch any test for spalling or energy transfer with steel plates. It’s not proper armor.
Any bullet that would spall rather than bounce off would be lead, and a bunch of dispersed lead fragments with some copper jacket should not be too hard to stop, probably a kevlar spall containment sleeve would solve the problem
So I’m pretty sure I need something to hold off a 30 mm depleted uranium auto cannon from say a circling A10 for a while , plus I still have to be able to use hand to hand combat and a tanto , something I can also do a number 2 in?
I’m a huge fan of my Gladiator Solutions body armor. I even use their Pakprotect in my laptop case.
I watched some DIY videos for making your own, plate like. I saw a younger man show different bullets on the ones he made it was really Good.
Great Video, doing the Lord's work for new guys!
Excelent video, well organized clearvoice cover a lot. I hope arms rookies see this video and learn how to do a god video
You need to adjust your body armor higher on your torso. You're protecting your belly over your upper chest and back. Top of front plate should touch your collarbone and top of back plate should be just under your atlas vertebra.
Thank you for this information. Much appreciated
UWMHPE is used as a backer material in Ceramic composite plates.
They are called Ceramic Composite plates, because it is a Composite of Ceramic and either fiberglass or UHMWPE as the backer material that actually captures the projectile fragmentation.
As uncommon as it is, there are some level 3/4 UHMWPE plates that do not use a Ceramic strike face, (termed Pure-Poly plates), but many Ceramic Composite plates employ the use of UHMWPE. Ceramic Composite plates that use a fiberglass backer are good at what they do, but much heavier, and are typically found in models designed for customers looking for armor on a tight budget.
Any Ceramic Composite plate in the mid to high range of quality will have UHMWPE as it's backer material.
It is a superior product, with superior performance at a lower weight, and thinner profile than what fiberglass can offer, especially when it is *pressed* using industrial hydraulic press equipment.
This was great thank you so much! I bought some a little while back first time, and did some research first. However i was still a little unsure i bought the right one for me. After seeing this and "using" it im happy i made the right purchase.
"It can take multiple hits and is still useable" No, it's not. While the steel itself may no longer be compromised, whatever antispall coating or sleeve is used in conjunction with that plate will have been compromised, and typically in fewer rounds than ceramics. The moment this layer is compromised, your steel armor ceases to be effective at protecting the wearer, because the resulting spall drastically increases risk of injury. Mind you, you also refrained from speaking to what happens to steel plates when they're impacted at anything but a direct angle, like, say, 45 degrees. The jacket will typically separate from the core, but the core itself will often continue to travel parallel to the plate's surface, regardless of the anti-spall measures taken.
Also, the generalized statement regarding to armor lifespans is incorrect. The NIJ standard varies depending on the individual armor. This is why ceramics with 5 and 10 year warrantied lifespans exist. With this in mind, the point is "Warrantied lifespan". The reality is, armor, especially hard armor, will likely never lose its efficacy in the hands of the average citizen, especially if they store it properly. Level IV ceramics that have been stored properly will often last well in excess of its noted lifespan. Why? Because the lifespans as set forth by the NIJ are with typical austere operating conditions in mind, so plates subjected to regular use, and constant changes in environmental conditions (hot, cold, dry, humid, direct exposure to water, etc). This may seem like a silly thing to point out, but I've seen many of the ill-informed use lifespan as an argument to keep steel, despite its abysmal protective capabilities, over more viable options, like ceramic and PE plates.
Amazingly informative. Thank you.
I realize that we're talking about protecting upper body mass (former LEO here), and it's the best target to target, but the criminals out there know this, and they are training to target head shots, even knowing it's a smaller target and the most missed. If trying to protect yourself in a riot situation, a kevlar helmet is also required. Protect those critical arteries if possible.
Very solid video and great topic.
Thanks for the video. Answers all the questions I've had regarding armor selection.
Glad I could help!
“Don’t let cost affect your decision”
Me after panic buying a 100 Dollar freeman carrier
it'll make for a good training kit
Honestly, I don't want to get into specifics, but, if I were purchasing armor, as a combat veteran who has used armor, actually used it, if you get the jizzt, I would purchase Level IV triple curve steel plates with full coat, sleeves, and trauma pads. Double up on the pads if you can, not all carriers will allow it. Make sure you ACTUALLY WEAR YOUR ARMOR! Level IV steel plates, sleeves, and pads are HEAVY! It takes time to get used to.
Or just buy lvl 4 multi curve ceramic composite and not have to wear trauma pads or spall sleeves. Better performance, less weight. The "as a veteran" doesnt mean anything.
Great video. I would have like to see a scale whipped out to see the weight too... still a great job.
Thanks for the video, however, it would have been helpful if you would have given your personal recommendation or simply tell us what you use and why.
good💯; bulletproof vest, bulletproof plate and level iiia iii iv
You totally nailed this video. Way to go brother!👍 I’m glad I watched this and no others. I also subscribed 🇺🇸
This s very dogarned terrific video thanks for the hard work creating it
Very informative without the hype. Thanks!
Great job as always CP
You forgot one very important thing. NIJ 06 specifies safe zone of impact for rifle rounds to be 3” from each edge of PE or ceramic panels. That means, safe coverage that actually protects you is about 20 % of whole area of body armor. Steel, on the other hand, protects you up to 5 mm or 1/5” from edge. That is about 88 % of whole area.
That means, that for same protection as steel you would have 4 times bigger weight for ceramic of PE panel.
These days, you can even opt for Armox 600 or Armox Advance, which are thinner than Armox 500, therefore lighter (about 6 pounds with coating).
Also, there is one very important aspect - steel has much lower trauma effect than ceramic or PE, which means, that even if bullet will notmpass through, actual schock caused by bulge on panel against your body is higher. Steel no bulge. Ceramic or PE - huge bulge.
In any case, don’t forget trauma pads. You absolutely have to use those, regarding the type of body armor.
Which, for ceramic or PE means more bulk (about 1/3” more)
Eyes , ears , nose protection are very important in over sea deployment. In southeast asia state department personel are being dried of supply most needed are water making like dehumidier with good filter because flood infested water most of earth already
Steel armor is super heavy lol good idea to go hiking or jogging with it to train yourself
I highly recommend Ecorpion Tactical on Ebay. Alot of their armor is extremely cheap and has saved my life multiple times on the job
How has it saved your life? What were the scenarios? Just curious.
@@MarvelousCards I was security at a bar, multiple different scenarios but 9mm and a 45 point blank and the worst I got were broozed ribs
Very professional video. Thank You. Have you heard of diritium?
Wow, you nailed it with this one. Comprehensive report on body armor. Sort of a b.a. for dummies. Nice job.
A very fine video, thank you for taking the time.
I bought some ar500 steel armor plates and didn’t realize how heavy the plates were!
I did the same, and then switched to polyurethane at 4 lbs per plate instead of steel. Made such a big difference.
@@wavemakersdj I thought about that but I wouldnt trust poly unless I could personally test it.
I just got my condor mopc with steel plates last weekend. If anybody is reading this before you buy your armor, DO NOT buy steel plates . My vest is 33 pounds , and I'm pretending I'm gonna fight in this?!. No . Buy better plates guys. On the other hand I can work out in it
@@lanceskopik2928 When I bought a 5.11 tactec, I went with steel Level 3 plates because they were almost exactly 10lbs a piece. That weighted them near identical to non ballistic workout plates. A few times with those, and the next purchase was poly's instead for real use, steels for workouts.
@Soul Chicken Great points and in light of Veterans Day...THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE!!
thank you very much, this helped me tremendously
Let me just say that I feel comfortable about purchasing my body armor after watching this video. I have 2 questions, though. The 1st can I interchange armor for one plate carrier.
For example, if I brought one plate carrier with a ceramic plate, can I purchase a steel plate at a later date, or would I have to get a whole new plate carrier for the steel armor.
2nd, what would you recommend for a civilian who just wants to get the best bang for their buck? Like a do all type of armored plate.
uhdpe+carbon fiber-kevlar blend for armored clothing
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE SPEND THE EXTRA FOR CERAMIC OR BETTER. The steel are cheaper and have a rubber "usually" coat. It doesn't capture the round. You get sprawling of the projectile. Your chin, arms and maybe legs are exposed. Save and get the good stuff
"Spalling" also good advice about that, most uninformed people will get a bare plate that's cheap, however like you said, in the very unlikely event they ever get shot, there is almost a guarantee that spall and frag will go through the cheap plate carrier they have and hit neck, legs, feet ect. Ceramic isn't needed if they still want steel though, amazing spall jackets are out there, as well as some companies that make very very good coatings. These days, ceramic plates are about 130 a piece though, so I take your advice and go with them anyways.
Can you make a video about plate carriers and chest rigs. Thanksb
Thanks. Very good overview!
I'd like to add one thing; if you aren't physically capable of running armor, you are too weak, or you are morbidly obese like 35% of Americans, you might want to consider rigorous PT prior to considering buying anything with weight
That’s like 95 percent of the country bro, most of these remote workers don’t even have treadmills lol
Level IIIA is very light and a whole lot better than nothing.
To add, the shoulder straps can be quite thick with padding and cumbersome to shoulder a rifle, especially if it doesn't have an adjustable buttstock. Try to find a model that doesn't have a buckle around that area.
Also, I fully agree on the weight assessment. My primary rig with front/rear plates, tourniquet, and three loaded mags weights 22 pounds. I do have lighter plates but require a supremely durable system for SHTF. To keep weight down and reduce profile, I keep my trauma kit on my first line battle belt. I strongly recommend not getting a double decker magazine pouch. When prone, the extra thickness is very uncomfortable. YMMV.
I find it quite amusing that when discussing plastics with environmental experts they say it wont break down in the environment for thousands of years. But when you speak to a body armour vendor they say your kevlar vest will be out of date and wont work in 8-10 years. I would always practise caution, and abide by date stamps because your life is on the line, but I did see an interesting video where a guy went to the range with some fairly ancient 20+year old police soft body armour, shot the shit out of it, and that ragged piece of crap still stopped everything.
I wouldnt WANT to bet my life on it, but if I only had 50bucks, well there it is.
Yeah I dont see 1" thick steel coated in what is essentially truck bed liner ever "expiring" Maybe if you store it at the bottom of the bay for a decade or something ...
Optimal performance is 5 years for plastic armor including ceramic composites that contain plastic. That is different than how long to be fully converted to starch by bacteria.
Tires are rated at 10 years but their performance can be reduced in as little as 3 years if not properly stored. That doesn't mean the tire will be biodegraded this century.
If the armor is stored in a cool dark place with 30% humidity it is going to last a lot longer than if it is being worn daily with heat, sweat, dirt, sunlight, rain, friction and winter weather.
@@lrmackmcbride7498 Thank you mate
I ordered the one from RoboCop I guess should be alright 😁
Just watch your arms legs and head when pinned down by 7 gangsters and given Snyde remarks about how they hate cops
@Leshawn D ...right on
I once worked for a company that made the plates for the military.
Just the video I need. Thank you.
Some viewers may not know about calibers or fmj or hollow point. Is there a vid ?
Thanks this was helpful and helped in making a decision
Steel plates really are a first time buyers' thing. My level III+ steel are way heavy
Thinking about getting some kevlar backpack armor
Thank you so much for sharing.
Do you have a list of plates you recommend ? Also helmets ?
Good job! Very informative. Thanks
So basically, if i buy plates that are ceramic and dont need them for five years, I'll need to replace them.?
Very good breakout. Thanks!
you see the damage to the clay behind it that's what you should think about that's bruises and broken chest bones we as humans aren't bullet proof period you are going to feel that impact even from a 9mm
Dumb question but why do people say that 55 fmj 556 will go through the steel but it doesn’t when I shoot my steel targets at the range?
I wouldn't pay for ICW armor.
Would like to get one of the FRAS
Well done, as always. Thank you.
Excellent video! Thank you!