I just wanted to say that it's pretty awesome of you to take the time and respond to everyone's questions. I'm sure you've helped a ton of people out. Take care and I hope you never get tired of doing good things
I wish I can have this guy come to my house. The wet basement walls at this point is really pissing me off I just need some one like him to come out and give me a quote someone that actually knows what they are doing.
Once again,thank you for sharing your expertise on how to properly install a drainage system within the basement area. I may do my own basement since I've already completed the hard part of trenching to receive the 4" drain pipe that is to tie into the sump pump system.
I wish I saw this video before JES installed that WaterGaurd water gutter system in my basement, just one of many frustrations with our foundation repair.
Thanks, I've been learning a lot from your vids. Recently started getting water in the basement of my 52 year old house. I've had a few contractors out to price the work. I was close to locking into a guy who's offering the WG system i.e. above footing gutter system, I think you've talked me out of it. If you worked in Canada, I'd give you a call for a quote :). I need to find a local guy who offers a system similar to yours. Thanks.
I'm glad you didn't go with the gutter. You should be able to find someone who installs 4" ADS corrugated piping pitched to a sump basin. Don't use fabric around the piping. It will filter sediment but will clog over time and barely allow any water into the piping. Best of luck!
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems I noticed instead of fabric you put plastic sheeting over the gravel. I guess that just seemed counterintuitive because you want the water to run thru the gravel unimpeded into your 4" ADS.
@@aj12271 Fabric should never be used in place of a poly vapor barrier for waterproofing drainage. Can you explain to me how our vapor barrier stops water from moving into the gravel area? It never seems to fail in our system setup. I'm not understanding your point.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems I've probably watched too many videos from so many different contractors & everyone seems to have a unique way of doing these installs. Some say, put landscape fabric, some say don't. Some say vapor barrier is only necessary couple inches up the wall while others say a couple feet. Some contractors say don't put the ADS at bottom of footer in the mud because it will clog up the holes, some say put top of pipe level with footer. Anyway, in general, I think your method seems to be one of the best I've seen. I've watched several of Hydroarmor with Daniel O'connor I think is his name. You two have a lot of technique similarities. I appreciate your response.
how do you ensure a good slope when installing an interior drainage system like this? I've been racking my brain on how to do this at the 'start point' to the end point (ie. sump pump pit)
I have 2 questions. 1, when the slab is removed what keeps the wall from moving inward from soil pressure. I have a block wall from the 50s and it has no infill inside of it. 2. What do you do for pipe penetrations like drains for plumbing fixtures?
Any recommendations for a dirt crawlspace? Should I lay a vapor barrier above gravel and drain board and fill back in with dirt? Or just fill to the top with gravel?
Going to be getting a garage floor coating done an epoxy type coating. There is a system like this on one side of the garage. Can anything be put along the wall over the flow channe plastic? Want to create some thing they could apply coating to to match a 3 inch boarder that will run around the top perimeter of the garage. Don't want to impede the performance of the system.
If I have water at my footing year round (drops a little in Summer) would installing an interior drainage system work or would my sump pump just be running literally 24/7? The only companies in my area (Northern Vt) install the products that sit on top of the footing that you don't seem to recommend - I'm at a loss.
Thank you for very helpful information. Can I connect the drain pipes (with fabric around) to the sewer drain system with P trap? I have water in the basement only if heavy rain.
We never use fabric because they clog and reduce water flow. Surround with stone instead. It is possible to tie to a sewer drain, not recommended. It depends on your local building code.
Interesting. How does one pitch all four walls to one sump? Seems it would be hard to keep the pipe at correct depth and proper pitch over an estimated 28' x 40' basement.
There is no way to use one pump to cover that much area. We use two sump pump stations positioned as far apart as possible. Watch this video for more detail - ua-cam.com/video/uzaVb2bXR8Y/v-deo.html
@@motoadventuredude Thanks for your input but your information is false and you are misleading people by saying pitch is not required. Managing water level to the floor is just an overflow system that requires constant maintenance. The concrete floor will sit in water as it overflows into a sump basin. This procedure increases air moisture and mold. You will now have to sell your customer a dehumidifier to get rid of that excess moisture. Sorry but I want to give our customers the driest basement possible without the hassle of maintenance.
We use a pipe that is corrugated and perforated inside the basement. PVC pipe is not flexible and requires elbows and ports for cleaning. The flexible, corrugated, perforated pipe is continuous without an elbow or fitting for ports. They don't crush or clog with mud.
What if there are areas of the basement floor, away from the walls, that have signs of water seepage (high water table, especially during rain and snow melt)?
I noticed u put the tube right on the ground then filled it with gravel. Isn't the wet ground under the tube gonna come up and clog the little slots in the tube? Causing blockage eventually?
No. We never get clogged pipes. Never. Water under your floor percolates up as clear water, not silty like the water that enters exterior drainage pipes. Some grains of dirt enter interior drainage pipes but they get washed away into the sump basin and pumped away from the house.
This video is fantastic. One question: what if my foundation doesn't have that cold joint and that concrete ledge on the footer? I have a 121 yr old house with a stone foundation that was later encased in concrete. I did exploring and found my interior wall just goes straight down. Because of this, i'm not sure how the dimple drain board system would work. I'm just a DIY-er with a tight reno budget so videos like this are a lifesaver. Thanks for making it.
Good question. This type of foundation does not fall into a traditional three-piece foundation. Stone walls are built on undisturbed soil (hardpan clay) and the floor is the same dirt. Later, concrete might be poured to make a slab floor. When we install an interior system we create a false footer out of the hardpan clay. It can be as sturdy as a concrete footer. Watch this video on false-footing: ua-cam.com/video/2_adHhELygA/v-deo.html
Thanks so much for sharing these informative videos! Unfortunately, we live in Atlanta and are unable to call on you for your services. Do you know of any businesses in our area that offer the same level (or close to the same) as y'all? Thanks again!
I have a draining system which was never capped with concrete (drain tile under some gravel), but need Radon mitigation done, for that I was told we need to pour concrete over the drain tile like you have in this video, my question, if I were to use the dimple board, would that not still allow Radon to pass up through the floor?
Yeah, our radon test came up at 8, so we need to mitigate, but because gravel is exposed in our perimeter drain, before that we need to cap it to seal the radon underneath. I believe the best system for drainage is the one with the dimple board, but my fear is that radon might still seep out and the radon mitigation would not be effective.
@@Tribe84 All subfloor systems on the market have some form of opening along the edge of the floor, similar to dimple board. You will definitely get lower levels if you get a strong suction fan to discharge the radon through a pipe from the sump basket to the outside. You could seal the dimple board edge with putty and then caulk. The dimple board will still do its job of directing water from the cove point to the subfloor drainage. I like to know what you decide to do. Best of luck.
What would you do if you have an old 1880 basement with field stone foundation with no footer. Would you cut a few inches off the wall and then install the same setup?
You are on the right path, but not a few-inches. A stone foundation sits on hardpan clay. The hardpan clay acts as footer, and just as strong. It is a false-footing that extends from wall to wall under your floor. Usually, we remove approx. 12 to 18-in of floor completely away from the wall to install our system.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems hey thanks for the reply really appreciate it. Just to clarify I can go right next to the foundation but make the trench 12 to 18 in wide. Or I should not go next to it but make my trench 12 inches off the wall
why drain inside of the basement rather than a tile around the outside before it gets into the house. water coming into/up and over the footing to reach your interior drain is still eroding/compromising the footing, no? Additionally, addressing the water before it even penetrates that low to begin with. So why not address both surface (exterior) and a drain outside of the foundation walls rather than within?
Good question but this is for groundwater, not surface water. My basement flooded recently even though it wasn't raining and there was no standing water around my house. Once I pumped it out and located where it was coming in I actually saw water flowing up from a hole in the floor. It had rained heavily and flooded areas around me a few days earlier, but it took a while for the water table to rise.
It is easier to setup shop selling that system nationwide, because they are simple to install. Very little training required. Plus the overhead is quite rewarding if you can get someone to buy it. Our type of installation requires 10x more materials, trade skills, and experience to get right for a truly effective system. It is harder to create nationwide dealerships or franchises without losing quality control.
Our system, of course. 😀 It is imperative to manage the water 10 to 12 inches beneath the floor. In the case of a monolithic floor, a corrugated perforated pipe will need to be placed in a trench approx 18-inches away from the wall. A false-footing with a flow channel will guide water to the pipe from the wall. 3.5 inches of concrete will replace the missing floor from the wall to the trench. They pop up once in a while and take extra hard work to install but well worth it.
How exactly do you create the pitch? Also where can I purchase some super slurry and anything else they might, I'm sorry but I'd have to my kind of place is this as a DYI project
Use wash stones to grade pipe. SuperSlurry is not for sale. It's a proprietary product we use on American Dry installations only. Most will not DIY because of the amount of work. But, there are DIY'ers with construction experience who are bold and go it alone.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems What should those of us that live outside your area do (Pacific Northwest)? Most of the contractors in my area seem to do the things you don't recommend. Would love to use SuperSlurry here
My water isn't coming in through the crease where the wall meets the floor. It's seeping through the wall about 4ft. up in different spots. I can see it coming in very slowly.
That's not good. You have some serious lateral pressure against your basement walls from the rain soaked soil around your house. It is disappointing that water is penetrating the middle before the cove joint. It is usually the other way around.
Three questions 1. Do you have to grate the dirt underneath the weeping tile twords the sumpump? 2. Could the plastic piece that sits on the footing go past the footing, and above the gravel? 3. When filling up the trench with concrete are you concerned that concrete could get underneath the plastic piece that sits on the footing?
1. do you mean grade? If so yes. That's what he meant about pitch. 2. you can extend the piece but it's not neccessary it's just recommended to be the same length of the footer. 3. You put a piece of vapor barrier on top of the gravel and on top of the membrane. So basically you cut a piece of vapor barrier the length of your trench in this case his might be 16 inches and that vapor helps with the moisture and also it helps prevent concrete from going underneath the the membrane and also from going in the trench. I hope I helped answer your questions.
@@BreezerX31 the plastic he is showing is called a drainage matting. Sizes will depend. Some rolls can be 3' wide by 50' long but indo believe they make some small pieces for basement systems. And the vapor barrier I was talking about is a 6 mil vapor barrier you can buy it at home depot. There are higher mils like 12 and 20 mil but a 6mil is enough usually all mils block out the same amount of moisture. 12 and 20 mils are usually used more on crawl space encapsulations that require stronger mils.
No. Never. Mold can only grow on wet organic matter, like wood or sheetrock above the floor. Mold will have a tough time growing if you make the basement dry and remove the humidity.
If water is coming in only at the cold joint and not dripping down the wall behind the gutter, isn't the space between the back of the gutter and the wall just letting moisture into the basement as a result of humid air rising behind the gutter? It seems it would be better to seal between the back of the gutter and the wall near the top of the gutter to keep humid air out.
@@chirina5 A water hose and wet & dry vac will do a thorough job. If you don't have them available, use a 5-gallon bucket of water to wash out the basket, run the pump, and wipe the bottom clean with rags.
@@chirina5 The pump can handle it, but it is not good for your septic system or water runoff to a nearby stream or pond. Use diluted bleach or better yet vinegar.
Your exterior waterproofing is probably still intact and doing its job. Unfortunately, it allows the hydrostatic pressure to build up so great that water is finding a way underneath your footer and below your floor. You could also have a natural water spring under your home that suddenly ruptures.
How can you confidently say that this system doesn't cause foundation settlement? With water constantly around the footing, you're SURE to cause sinking foundations. I didn't see that addressed anywhere here.
All houses are perpetually settling. I never said, "stop foundation settlement." We certainly stop further damage that "hydrostatic" pressure is doing outside your walls and underneath your floor. We prevent cracking and the weakening of the "trio." The wall, footer, and floor holding each other in place to create a strong foundation. Engineering 101. Read the ICC manual to learn more.
@@UToobin75 Without an inspection, it is hard to give you a definitive answer, but if you installed a "gutter" guard system, you will not resolve your problem. If the drainage pipe is installed, it requires a pitch to the sump to be effective. No pitch. You get very little flow. Some contractors are lazy and dig deeper, below the bottom of your footer, to create an artificial pitch. Instead, they created an opportunity for water to undermine your footer. This can lead to instability in your foundation. We install partial systems with great success when the occasion calls for it.
@@UToobin75 This sounds like something that was trenched too deeply. Below the bottom of the footer. You could have a natural spring under your house. Hopefully, your discharge points (dry wells) are at least 15 to 30 ft away from the house going in a downhill slope. Again, it's hard for me to advise without an inspection.
@@UToobin75 It sounds like you are chasing your tail with your basement waterproofing research. It's hard to know exactly what is going on in your basement without an expert inspection. I have more than 25,000 basements and crawl spaces under my belt. I have seen it all. Your basement is salvageable, but you need someone in your area, who is trustworthy and very experienced to knock it out of the park for you.
@@UToobin75 It would be best if you did not have basements in an area like you’re describing. A sump pump adjusted to a higher level would be the only alternative, along with installing a standard subfloor water management system, or a top floor cove plate system around the perimeter. You can create a channel around the perimeter against the wall with a cove plate system. Water would flow inside the cove plate and overflow into the sump pump. Unfortunately, the system still allows the pressure of water to build up around the foundation and underneath the floor to cause foundation damage. This system may buy you time, but will not ultimately resolve your problem of cracking walls or floor.
I have to say the dimple board looks like an "up sell" and is completely useless. Where else would the water go? It's going to come thru the seam or thru porous concrete & head straight for the edge of the footer with or without dimple board.
Definitely not an upsell. Surely some of the water will still go towards the footer, but it will also wick up the cold joint, where the floor meets the wall and onto the floor. The dimple board is essential to direct the flow ONLY across the footer. It removes flow resistance. I dare you to try it without the dimple board.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems I don't think I'll take that dare! Just not worth it especially since the material cost is not that significant. My "upsell" comment probably came across a little snide. Wasn't my intention. I'm in the service industry myself & definitely have "upsell" products and services to offer customers. So here's another question....how deep is the gravel base under the ADS pipe and do you have you ever recommended the ADS pipe that comes already wrapped in the nylon stocking with foam "peanuts" ?
That s two questions. The amount of gravel under the pipe is determined by the pitch/length of the wall. No set number for the amount of gravel - more for higher - less for lower. I don't recommend pipe covered in nylon filtration.
@@bigred9428 Go to our channel and watch our videos of tearing them out. We go into detail about every reason why we don't recommend them. It doesn't make sense to rehash them here.
Groundwater always takes the path of least resistance. What other ways does water find its way into a basement?
From pouring off the roof
Water table..
I just wanted to say that it's pretty awesome of you to take the time and respond to everyone's questions. I'm sure you've helped a ton of people out.
Take care and I hope you never get tired of doing good things
I appreciate that!
I wish I can have this guy come to my house. The wet basement walls at this point is really pissing me off I just need some one like him to come out and give me a quote someone that actually knows what they are doing.
same man had 3 different quotes from companies around here all trying to sell me that box system.
Once again,thank you for sharing your expertise on how to properly install a drainage system within the basement area. I may do my own basement since I've already completed the hard part of trenching to receive the 4" drain pipe that is to tie into the sump pump system.
I wish I saw this video before JES installed that WaterGaurd water gutter system in my basement, just one of many frustrations with our foundation repair.
Sorry to hear. Hoping for the best.
Thank you for your video, very informative. What drain board do you use?
You're welcome. Our drain board is not available for retail. Dimple board is your next best bet.
Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Very informative video. Definitely enjoyed learning about this topic thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very informative video thanks
Thank you. I learned a lot!
Thanks, I've been learning a lot from your vids. Recently started getting water in the basement of my 52 year old house. I've had a few contractors out to price the work. I was close to locking into a guy who's offering the WG system i.e. above footing gutter system, I think you've talked me out of it.
If you worked in Canada, I'd give you a call for a quote :). I need to find a local guy who offers a system similar to yours. Thanks.
I'm glad you didn't go with the gutter. You should be able to find someone who installs 4" ADS corrugated piping pitched to a sump basin. Don't use fabric around the piping. It will filter sediment but will clog over time and barely allow any water into the piping. Best of luck!
American Dry Basement Systems Thanks for the response and will keep your tip in mind aboit the cloth.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems I noticed instead of fabric you put plastic sheeting over the gravel. I guess that just seemed counterintuitive because you want the water to run thru the gravel unimpeded into your 4" ADS.
@@aj12271 Fabric should never be used in place of a poly vapor barrier for waterproofing drainage. Can you explain to me how our vapor barrier stops water from moving into the gravel area? It never seems to fail in our system setup. I'm not understanding your point.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems I've probably watched too many videos from so many different contractors & everyone seems to have a unique way of doing these installs. Some say, put landscape fabric, some say don't. Some say vapor barrier is only necessary couple inches up the wall while others say a couple feet. Some contractors say don't put the ADS at bottom of footer in the mud because it will clog up the holes, some say put top of pipe level with footer. Anyway, in general, I think your method seems to be one of the best I've seen. I've watched several of Hydroarmor with Daniel O'connor I think is his name. You two have a lot of technique similarities. I appreciate your response.
Great job
God bless
how do you ensure a good slope when installing an interior drainage system like this? I've been racking my brain on how to do this at the 'start point' to the end point (ie. sump pump pit)
I’m looking to do the same for my basement. How do I know how thick my footing is I don’t want to accidentally cut into it.
How much concrete ends up on top of the flow channel? I feel like I must be missing something.
Need this type of system the video explains
I have 2 questions. 1, when the slab is removed what keeps the wall from moving inward from soil pressure. I have a block wall from the 50s and it has no infill inside of it. 2. What do you do for pipe penetrations like drains for plumbing fixtures?
Any recommendations for a dirt crawlspace? Should I lay a vapor barrier above gravel and drain board and fill back in with dirt? Or just fill to the top with gravel?
Going to be getting a garage floor coating done an epoxy type coating. There is a system like this on one side of the garage. Can anything be put along the wall over the flow channe plastic? Want to create some thing they could apply coating to to match a 3 inch boarder that will run around the top perimeter of the garage. Don't want to impede the performance of the system.
They put concrete on top of the dimple board flow channel
If I have water at my footing year round (drops a little in Summer) would installing an interior drainage system work or would my sump pump just be running literally 24/7? The only companies in my area (Northern Vt) install the products that sit on top of the footing that you don't seem to recommend - I'm at a loss.
Why do you use non fabric wrapped french drain instead of fabric wrapped?
Thank you for very helpful information.
Can I connect the drain pipes (with fabric around) to the sewer drain system with P trap? I have water in the basement only if heavy rain.
We never use fabric because they clog and reduce water flow. Surround with stone instead. It is possible to tie to a sewer drain, not recommended. It depends on your local building code.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Thank you for your help and videos.
Great video
Interesting. How does one pitch all four walls to one sump? Seems it would be hard to keep the pipe at correct depth and proper pitch over an estimated 28' x 40' basement.
There is no way to use one pump to cover that much area. We use two sump pump stations positioned as far apart as possible. Watch this video for more detail - ua-cam.com/video/uzaVb2bXR8Y/v-deo.html
@@motoadventuredude Thanks for your input but your information is false and you are misleading people by saying pitch is not required. Managing water level to the floor is just an overflow system that requires constant maintenance. The concrete floor will sit in water as it overflows into a sump basin. This procedure increases air moisture and mold. You will now have to sell your customer a dehumidifier to get rid of that excess moisture. Sorry but I want to give our customers the driest basement possible without the hassle of maintenance.
Why no lawn fabric in the trench to prevent dirt from entering the gravel?
Why corrugated and not perforated pvc?
We use a pipe that is corrugated and perforated inside the basement. PVC pipe is not flexible and requires elbows and ports for cleaning. The flexible, corrugated, perforated pipe is continuous without an elbow or fitting for ports. They don't crush or clog with mud.
Good sir
What if there are areas of the basement floor, away from the walls, that have signs of water seepage (high water table, especially during rain and snow melt)?
You can use simple board across the floor to resist hydrostatic pressure
I noticed u put the tube right on the ground then filled it with gravel. Isn't the wet ground under the tube gonna come up and clog the little slots in the tube? Causing blockage eventually?
No. We never get clogged pipes. Never. Water under your floor percolates up as clear water, not silty like the water that enters exterior drainage pipes. Some grains of dirt enter interior drainage pipes but they get washed away into the sump basin and pumped away from the house.
Would it ever be a good idea to install capped inspection/clean out ports in the drain pipe?
This video is fantastic. One question: what if my foundation doesn't have that cold joint and that concrete ledge on the footer? I have a 121 yr old house with a stone foundation that was later encased in concrete. I did exploring and found my interior wall just goes straight down. Because of this, i'm not sure how the dimple drain board system would work. I'm just a DIY-er with a tight reno budget so videos like this are a lifesaver. Thanks for making it.
Good question. This type of foundation does not fall into a traditional three-piece foundation. Stone walls are built on undisturbed soil (hardpan clay) and the floor is the same dirt. Later, concrete might be poured to make a slab floor. When we install an interior system we create a false footer out of the hardpan clay. It can be as sturdy as a concrete footer. Watch this video on false-footing: ua-cam.com/video/2_adHhELygA/v-deo.html
Why can't we seal the cold joint?
Thanks so much for sharing these informative videos! Unfortunately, we live in Atlanta and are unable to call on you for your services. Do you know of any businesses in our area that offer the same level (or close to the same) as y'all? Thanks again!
Sorry! We don't know anyone in your area. All the best to you.
Only thing i dont understand is this... how does the water get into the black pipe? Is it perforated?
Yes.
Hi I doing my basement over I have no footings will this work thanks.
Check this video out. I think it will answer your question. ua-cam.com/video/2_adHhELygA/v-deo.htmlsi=Tx9-Mt_7Xszj_h6G
what pitch do you use for drainage pipe?
I have a draining system which was never capped with concrete (drain tile under some gravel), but need Radon mitigation done, for that I was told we need to pour concrete over the drain tile like you have in this video, my question, if I were to use the dimple board, would that not still allow Radon to pass up through the floor?
Do you have a radon problem? Did you get it tested? Radon mitigation is only for dangerous levels (starting at 4 pCi/L) which is very rare.
Yeah, our radon test came up at 8, so we need to mitigate, but because gravel is exposed in our perimeter drain, before that we need to cap it to seal the radon underneath. I believe the best system for drainage is the one with the dimple board, but my fear is that radon might still seep out and the radon mitigation would not be effective.
@@Tribe84 All subfloor systems on the market have some form of opening along the edge of the floor, similar to dimple board. You will definitely get lower levels if you get a strong suction fan to discharge the radon through a pipe from the sump basket to the outside. You could seal the dimple board edge with putty and then caulk. The dimple board will still do its job of directing water from the cove point to the subfloor drainage. I like to know what you decide to do. Best of luck.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems Thank you so much for the info, I will give it a shot.
The perforation in the corrugated is 360° around the pipe correct ?
Yes.
Copy that ! Thank you
do you add weep holes to the bottom of the basement wall?
Always when the wall is constructed out of cinder blocks. Not usually with poured solid concrete walls.
Don't you need to keep the top of the washed stone below the finished floor surface so you can pour at least 3 inches of cement thickness?
Yes. Stone below finished floor with vapor barrier on top. 3.5 inches or more to keep within general building code.
What would you do if you have an old 1880 basement with field stone foundation with no footer. Would you cut a few inches off the wall and then install the same setup?
You are on the right path, but not a few-inches. A stone foundation sits on hardpan clay. The hardpan clay acts as footer, and just as strong. It is a false-footing that extends from wall to wall under your floor. Usually, we remove approx. 12 to 18-in of floor completely away from the wall to install our system.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems hey thanks for the reply really appreciate it. Just to clarify I can go right next to the foundation but make the trench 12 to 18 in wide. Or I should not go next to it but make my trench 12 inches off the wall
@@pollocko91 Stay 12-18" off the wall, then dig at most 12-18" down. See his "false footing" video.
why drain inside of the basement rather than a tile around the outside before it gets into the house. water coming into/up and over the footing to reach your interior drain is still eroding/compromising the footing, no? Additionally, addressing the water before it even penetrates that low to begin with. So why not address both surface (exterior) and a drain outside of the foundation walls rather than within?
Good question but this is for groundwater, not surface water. My basement flooded recently even though it wasn't raining and there was no standing water around my house. Once I pumped it out and located where it was coming in I actually saw water flowing up from a hole in the floor. It had rained heavily and flooded areas around me a few days earlier, but it took a while for the water table to rise.
Hydrostatic pressure brings water up from the ground. But yes you can also do it from outside if "surface water" is a problem.
You don’t always have an option, or it may be too cost prohibitive.
like the vídeo
Every single waterproofing contractor in my area uses that first system (WaterGuard) which you show how it doesn't work
It is easier to setup shop selling that system nationwide, because they are simple to install. Very little training required. Plus the overhead is quite rewarding if you can get someone to buy it. Our type of installation requires 10x more materials, trade skills, and experience to get right for a truly effective system. It is harder to create nationwide dealerships or franchises without losing quality control.
what kind of system would you recommend on a monolithic poured floor?
Our system, of course. 😀 It is imperative to manage the water 10 to 12 inches beneath the floor. In the case of a monolithic floor, a corrugated perforated pipe will need to be placed in a trench approx 18-inches away from the wall. A false-footing with a flow channel will guide water to the pipe from the wall. 3.5 inches of concrete will replace the missing floor from the wall to the trench. They pop up once in a while and take extra hard work to install but well worth it.
How exactly do you create the pitch? Also where can I purchase some super slurry and anything else they might, I'm sorry but I'd have to my kind of place is this as a DYI project
Use wash stones to grade pipe. SuperSlurry is not for sale. It's a proprietary product we use on American Dry installations only. Most will not DIY because of the amount of work. But, there are DIY'ers with construction experience who are bold and go it alone.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems What should those of us that live outside your area do (Pacific Northwest)? Most of the contractors in my area seem to do the things you don't recommend. Would love to use SuperSlurry here
My water isn't coming in through the crease where the wall meets the floor. It's seeping through the wall about 4ft. up in different spots. I can see it coming in very slowly.
That's not good. You have some serious lateral pressure against your basement walls from the rain soaked soil around your house. It is disappointing that water is penetrating the middle before the cove joint. It is usually the other way around.
Where do you buy the gray plastic for wall to footing.
Search for polydrain. We buy in large bulk from a B2B. It is a off shoot of a standard dimple drain board.
Three questions
1. Do you have to grate the dirt underneath the weeping tile twords the sumpump?
2. Could the plastic piece that sits on the footing go past the footing, and above the gravel?
3. When filling up the trench with concrete are you concerned that concrete could get underneath the plastic piece that sits on the footing?
1. do you mean grade? If so yes. That's what he meant about pitch.
2. you can extend the piece but it's not neccessary it's just recommended to be the same length of the footer.
3. You put a piece of vapor barrier on top of the gravel and on top of the membrane. So basically you cut a piece of vapor barrier the length of your trench in this case his might be 16 inches and that vapor helps with the moisture and also it helps prevent concrete from going underneath the the membrane and also from going in the trench. I hope I helped answer your questions.
I meant both the lenght and with of the trench sorry
@@chirina5 okay thank you! Appreciate the info, what's the plastic piece called before you out down the concrete?
@@BreezerX31 the plastic he is showing is called a drainage matting. Sizes will depend. Some rolls can be 3' wide by 50' long but indo believe they make some small pieces for basement systems. And the vapor barrier I was talking about is a 6 mil vapor barrier you can buy it at home depot. There are higher mils like 12 and 20 mil but a 6mil is enough usually all mils block out the same amount of moisture. 12 and 20 mils are usually used more on crawl space encapsulations that require stronger mils.
@@chirina5 okay thank you! The plastic goes between the rocks and cement?
How about mold ?? Will it grow underneath
No. Never. Mold can only grow on wet organic matter, like wood or sheetrock above the floor. Mold will have a tough time growing if you make the basement dry and remove the humidity.
If water is coming in only at the cold joint and not dripping down the wall behind the gutter, isn't the space between the back of the gutter and the wall just letting moisture into the basement as a result of humid air rising behind the gutter? It seems it would be better to seal between the back of the gutter and the wall near the top of the gutter to keep humid air out.
You would think the opening would create humidity, but it doesn't. No humidity whatsoever.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems what is the best way to flush sump pumps?
@@chirina5 A water hose and wet & dry vac will do a thorough job. If you don't have them available, use a 5-gallon bucket of water to wash out the basket, run the pump, and wipe the bottom clean with rags.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems can you use bleach or any other chemical or will it mess up the pump?
@@chirina5 The pump can handle it, but it is not good for your septic system or water runoff to a nearby stream or pond. Use diluted bleach or better yet vinegar.
What if the water is coming in from under the floor and not the walls?
Your exterior waterproofing is probably still intact and doing its job. Unfortunately, it allows the hydrostatic pressure to build up so great that water is finding a way underneath your footer and below your floor. You could also have a natural water spring under your home that suddenly ruptures.
Get a sump pump or two!
What if it's an old home with no footing?
Then you need to create a false-footing. Watch this video ua-cam.com/video/2_adHhELygA/v-deo.html
Can we extend the drain board over the footing and on top of the stones that would be on top of the corrugated pipe.
You can.
Do you service Philadelphia
We do not service in the state of Pennsylvania. Make sure you watch our videos to ask the right questions before a waterproofer gives you an estimate.
My problem isn't ground water but when it rains heavily
Gutters
How can you confidently say that this system doesn't cause foundation settlement? With water constantly around the footing, you're SURE to cause sinking foundations. I didn't see that addressed anywhere here.
All houses are perpetually settling. I never said, "stop foundation settlement." We certainly stop further damage that "hydrostatic" pressure is doing outside your walls and underneath your floor. We prevent cracking and the weakening of the "trio." The wall, footer, and floor holding each other in place to create a strong foundation. Engineering 101. Read the ICC manual to learn more.
@@UToobin75 Without an inspection, it is hard to give you a definitive answer, but if you installed a "gutter" guard system, you will not resolve your problem. If the drainage pipe is installed, it requires a pitch to the sump to be effective. No pitch. You get very little flow. Some contractors are lazy and dig deeper, below the bottom of your footer, to create an artificial pitch. Instead, they created an opportunity for water to undermine your footer. This can lead to instability in your foundation. We install partial systems with great success when the occasion calls for it.
@@UToobin75 This sounds like something that was trenched too deeply. Below the bottom of the footer. You could have a natural spring under your house.
Hopefully, your discharge points (dry wells) are at least 15 to 30 ft away from the house going in a downhill slope. Again, it's hard for me to advise without an inspection.
@@UToobin75 It sounds like you are chasing your tail with your basement waterproofing research. It's hard to know exactly what is going on in your basement without an expert inspection. I have more than 25,000 basements and crawl spaces under my belt. I have seen it all. Your basement is salvageable, but you need someone in your area, who is trustworthy and very experienced to knock it out of the park for you.
@@UToobin75 It would be best if you did not have basements in an area like you’re describing. A sump pump adjusted to a higher level would be the only alternative, along with installing a standard subfloor water management system, or a top floor cove plate system around the perimeter.
You can create a channel around the perimeter against the wall with a cove plate system. Water would flow inside the cove plate and overflow into the sump pump. Unfortunately, the system still allows the pressure of water to build up around the foundation and underneath the floor to cause foundation damage. This system may buy you time, but will not ultimately resolve your problem of cracking walls or floor.
How can I prevent insects like centipedes from living/hiding in this type of trench?
Its under the concrete why would you care?
I have to say the dimple board looks like an "up sell" and is completely useless. Where else would the water go? It's going to come thru the seam or thru porous concrete & head straight for the edge of the footer with or without dimple board.
Definitely not an upsell. Surely some of the water will still go towards the footer, but it will also wick up the cold joint, where the floor meets the wall and onto the floor. The dimple board is essential to direct the flow ONLY across the footer. It removes flow resistance. I dare you to try it without the dimple board.
@@AmericanDryBasementSystems I don't think I'll take that dare! Just not worth it especially since the material cost is not that significant. My "upsell" comment probably came across a little snide. Wasn't my intention. I'm in the service industry myself & definitely have "upsell" products and services to offer customers. So here's another question....how deep is the gravel base under the ADS pipe and do you have you ever recommended the ADS pipe that comes already wrapped in the nylon stocking with foam "peanuts" ?
That s two questions. The amount of gravel under the pipe is determined by the pitch/length of the wall. No set number for the amount of gravel - more for higher - less for lower. I don't recommend pipe covered in nylon filtration.
American Dry Basement Systems ,
Why don't you recommend that type of pipe?
@@bigred9428 Go to our channel and watch our videos of tearing them out. We go into detail about every reason why we don't recommend them. It doesn't make sense to rehash them here.
Use of the black corrugated pipe is a TERRIBLE idea....always use rigid pipe