DIY Interior Draintile Installation for Wet Basements
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 січ 2018
- Jack Hammer: amzn.to/2VIvoYA
Cement Mixer: amzn.to/2ZQYbJN
Hammer Drill: amzn.to/2Jb2rhp
**I don't know why I didn't notice this when editing but I went back and drilled in-between each blocks mortar joint as well, they do in fact hold water**
I share in this video the steps I took to save thousands of dollars by installing a interior draintile system myself. - Навчання та стиль
Check out my Exterior Repair For the Foundation! ua-cam.com/video/FSHKbmb8Q8A/v-deo.html
Check It out, Best of Luck with your Project. Hit the subscribe + Like button to support me! Thanks
This guy is so humble about doing literally the messiest, most extreme diy project possible.
haha thanks bud
Having the same problem,, trying to build up enough confidence to do this,,,
Thank you great video bro,,, I know it was a lot a work!!
Yeah, not for the faint of heart. Plus, not having access to professional systems makes you impervise a bit.
I just started this project yesterday. Thanks for the video and Jackhammer info
No problem bud. Please subscribe! Thanks for watching
This is exactly what I will be doing, thanks for the video!
Kelly Cayson glad it helped!!!
Thank you for this awesome video for Dummies! I am one of those dummies they make those books for but I am ok with that. LOL. The only thing I wish you would have put in the video was the actual installation of the drain tile, how much gravel to put in the bottom, how much on top, and the fabric and dimple installation. But oh well, thank you for doing what you did. Plumber did a video scope my three drain tiles (in, out and sewer) and he wanted $2,500 to fix a small broken section of my inside drain tile of a 25-year-old home so it's all plastic. But watching this video showed me that I can do it myself and my father in law is a retired Master Plumber in the state of Ohio so he can guide me along too. Thanks again.
Glad it helped bud. as far as the stone just enough to slope it to the sump. on top as much as needed to get it level with the footer. Thanks for watching
Wow! What a job. Labor intensive Kudos to you! I hope your basement is dry now.
Haha yes it was a bit of a project! It is dry now! I did a exterior repair in the problem area as well. Heres the link to that video if you wanna check it out! ua-cam.com/video/FSHKbmb8Q8A/v-deo.html Please hit the subscribe button. Thank you!
Awesome project. Thanks for sharing. Happy New Year.
Thanks bud! Same to you!
Just wanted to thank you for the video, I'm getting ready to do the same job.
Thanks for taking the time to! I also have a vid on my channel doing the exterior if thats of interest! Best of luck! Please subscribe
I’m not sure if you started installing a French drain, but if you didn’t and you have clay tile or clay drainage when you break that out make sure that you seal it off so you don’t get any mud coming back into your French drain. That could make a mess and clog things up. Good luck
that's a lot of work. good job!
Yes it was! Thanks Whit!
good job I do this for a living and this looks realy good for dyi
Thanks buddy!!
Wish me luck I'm going to give it a shoot next week
Looks like a great job, thoughtfully done. Thanks for taking the time to film and share. Might've run the dimple sheeting a few inches above your concrete, just my two cents. I was hoping to see the install of the footing drain pipe, but hey, beggars can't choose ;-)
Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment! Leaving it above the concrete would have been similar to some systems installed by companies so any water that finds it's way through will run down the wall and into your draintile. Biggest issue with it for me is we have elevated radon levels here so I wouldn't get a good suction under the slab as the fan would just pull from path of least resistance. I actually have a video on my channel fixing this from the outside as well. Check it out if youd like. That shows the pipe installation. Thanks!
@@Tyler_Koehn solid point! Radon isn't much of an issue in my locale (Western WA) so I overlooked that element in your situation. But you mentioned it several times, so yeah, I should've paid closer attention ;-) I'll check out the other vids!
@@genes.1999 No worries bud! Have a good one!
@@Tyler_Koehn Would it be fair to say that in addition, when sealing the dimple membrane, you would benefit from keeping out:
-Soil smells and moist air, adding the the stack air movement with the house, thus creating potential for air quality/condensation (in turn making mold possible too)?
-Open pathway for soil bourn insects into house?
Would love to see what others think, as these ideas don't seem so readily spoken of...
Wow, dude, you’re my hero.
haha
I'm about to buy my first home and my realtor was really excited to see that I had a french drain in the basement. I came here to have a better understanding of what that meant and how it was installed. Thank you for this video.
Your welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting. Congratulations on your home!
Yep, seeing a french drain means your basement should be a forever one. I just recently gutted my basement because of water issues that was creating mold all over the place.
@@LuisLarreaJr yeah I'm actually having issues with my French drain leaking. It's a domino effect my gutters are old and leaking causing the concrete around the foundation of my house to crack away from it. So first I'm having my gutters replaced, then repairing the concrete. I'm hoping that corrects the issue because I'd love to have a finished basement one day. I've already had them come to clean the mold out of my basement once may need them to come again.
@@alyseh9539 hm, I had water run down my walls once when I didn't clean out my gutters (I had recently replaced them with 5" gutters, bigger than normal so I thought I could skip a year... was wrong). Checking your gutters in spring and fall will def prevent this from happening or adding leaf guards (be careful which to buy if you intend to go this route) will eliminate or reduce this (I'll be going this route next year). The only other comment I have is that I'm installing 7.5 foot dimple board instead of the 12 inch you see here. That way if I have water running down my walls, I should be fine. To be honest, I was under the impression that a French drain with the dimple board, again the black plastic you see in the video would allow the water to go into the drain below. I'm wondering if you didn't have this installed, if they failed, or if there's some 3rd variable I'm not thinking of (like maybe there was just too much water that it wasn't just running down the wall but spraying out).
@@LuisLarreaJr I do have the dimple board along the wall... yes. There was water running down my walls on the outside of my house in the same spots that are leaking in the basement. I'm getting the seamless gutters installed. We also has alot of drain fall in the last few weeks that I think caused my French drain to over flow.
Please help me reach my 1000 subscriptions goal by hitting the subscribe button! Thank you!
You got it. Thanks for the vid!!
@@brianbevilacqua4984 thanks bud!
Good job. I am going to have to do the same thing at my house I just bought.
Thanks bud! I also have a video fixing exterior too if your interested ua-cam.com/video/FSHKbmb8Q8A/v-deo.html
Thank you for posting
Your welcome
Very helpful! About to undertake this myself. Dealing with some heavy wet clay and a leaky basement in WI. Sounds like you might be from Wisco too
This is awesome. In the home we bought someone already paid to have the walls repaired, preventing leaks. I'm definitely not going to drill in to that lol. But I get a lot of seepage from the floor still, mainly at the base of the walls. My plan is a modification of this. I'm going to cut a trough 2 inch deep and wide enough for a 1x6 to collect water around the perimeter of my basement and funnel it to the two sump basins. I'll then lay stone, landscape fabric, and just cover with treated boards. I figure I'll get the same result, water directed to the sump, but with a lot less work! Also, that jackhammer is awesome. I bought the same one 5 years ago for a project and it's been indispensable. It's tough as hell too for it's size, I knocked out cistern walls with it in our prior home's basement. Thanks for inspiring me! I'm definitely doing my work myself now.
Interesting project Dustin. You'll have to let me know how it goes. Completely agree on the jack hammer. I did however just have the electrical cord go bad on it, new cord now and back up and working!
How did it work out. The house im looking at has a french drain system already. Is the moisture going to be something i have to deal with for as long as i live in the house?
That's a terrible idea
@@losheroes6076 I haven't done anything else yet, still not sure if I will since we may move in the next 1-3 years. As far as moisture goes it is typically higher in a basement whether or not it's visibly wet or dry. Our last house had a dry basement but humidity was typically 60-65 percent 9-10 months a year. It would fall back in to the 50s at times in the winter especially when it was cold and dry out for extended periods.
@@bend4852 thanks for contributing nothing to the conversation, I always appreciate experts telling me what to do!
Wish you could come help me with my project. Great tutorial! Thank you so much!
Haha!! Thank you for that!! I've got a laundry list of things to still do for myself, but I will however wish you the best of luck:) Thanks again!
That's a great video. I appreciate seeing this in so much detail. Any idea of doing this on a brick foundation would be similar? I've been wondering where I'd bore the holes if I were to do this? Been contemplating taking this project up as I get lots of seepage.
Thanks for the comment bud. I think you may be better off doing an exterior repair as the reason this works with block foundation is the cavity is able to be drilled into and drained. I have a video on doing exterior system as well. Hope this helps ua-cam.com/video/FSHKbmb8Q8A/v-deo.html
@@Tyler_Koehn Shouldn't you also put a hole in the masonry between the blocks since a cavity forms when the blocks are put adjacent to one another?
@@fortpatches absolutely bud. I had added it to the description of the video as I don't know how I did not notice it when editing the video
I'd suggest getting a couple quotes, that way you can see what is best. Also you can get a clear scope of the work and see if your up to it
Awesome video man!
Thanks Nathan!
Thanks for posting
Thanks for watching!
Looking great brother 👌
Thank you!
Wow we usually do this at work with 4 or 5 people on a crew lol. Props
Haha thanks bud. It didn't help I was still off work in recovery from breaking my tibula and fibula in my leg haha.
Hey conservative reno, since you do this type of work. Any tip on dealing with a corner cold storage area where the cement is raised? It's like a 8x8 area incased in cinder block.
GOOD JOB MAN :-)
NEELWELLVIDEO1 thanks buddy!
Amazing work. Would this affect the stability of the foundation?
This should not have a negative effect. Definitely not worse than your blocks filled up with water lol. Thanks for watching cooldude!
Awesome video thank you! Does anyone know if stopping halfway down a wall would cause an issue? I just have a small run of my wall that’s showing problems could I install this kind of system without going all the way to the corner?
Your welcome. There shouldn't be a problem doing as you say as long as the drain tiles are clear on that section of wall so the water can get to your sump pump
Great video, it's hard to find good DIY information about this project. You did a great job. Are there any resources you can recommend? How did you know what to do and what to use? Thanks again!
To be honest just watched some videos of the "Pros" doing it and came up with this. I did have a masonry friend I was able to ask some questions to so I knew what I was getting into.
Great job and thanks for the video. Is the basement dry one year later?
Yes it is! However I did do the outside as well in that corner. I have a video of that process as well on my channel!
very nice. Thanks
Your welcome
@tylerkoehn Hey great video, also picked up the Jack hammer you suggested it worked better than I anticipated, thanks for posting that. I’m in the process of doing the same thing to mine. I have a question about a few things if you have time to answer… Is everything dry in your basement after you completed the project? Would you do anything different? Also I’m having a hard time finding the dimple board at Menards? Is it called something else other than dimple board?
miradrain tile
Good job
Thank you
This is good job 👍 and doing the same work.
Thank you!
Best tutorial music ever
Lmao
Wanted to say great job. Not sure if i could tackle this myself but you stayed calm and worked through it. Thanks for the info/inspiration
@@nicholascarbonara6041 thanks man i really appreciate the kind words:)
Good Vid.....
Thanks bud I appreciate it
Dude did some work
Haha you could say that🤣
Thanks for posting this. I plan on doing the same project this spring. If you could can you please clarify that I have the layering of materials correct. From top to bottom concrete, vapor barrier, dimple matting, geo fabric, crushed 1's/draintile
No problem bud, thanks for watching. yep sounds like you have everything in the right order. However for the stone i used what they call around here 3/4 clear limestone. im sure it depends on what locally its called and type of stone by you, but you don't really want the "fines".
@@Tyler_Koehn Yep were talking about the same thing. You mentioned nailing the dimple matting to the blocks. Did this work out well? Did you fasten through the sealing foam or below it? What did you use for approximate fastener spacing?
@@ghostz61987 actually i ended up not fastening it at all. i really did not end up seeing a need for it. I just positioned it where i wanted it and used the concretes mass to just hold it down. Worked out great
Only additional point I would keep the dimple board above the level of the concrete to allow drainage from down the wall to get into the system below. you can then run a vapor barrier up the wall and tuck in back of the dimple board.
Thanks for this detailed video and kudos to your hard work. Quick question to you if you don't mind, what kind of drain tile or pipe you used? Was it perforated PVC or the flexible black perforated corrugated pipe?
Thanks, I used perforated pvc with the holes. I just like rigid pipe personally, and the fact it's smooth.
@@Tyler_Koehn Thanks a lot for the quick response. Did you have to snake it so far? I would like to know how this was. I have some trees around my property and I am worried they will make their way through the perforation holes so I wanted to know if I would be able to snake them some how. Thanks again!
Tyler, I enjoyed watching this video because I may attempt to do something similar in my basement as it is always wet during the rainy season. I noticed that you used a product called "dimple board." Is that actually used in place of corrugated pipe? Based on your installation, it looks as though it is and just wondered how the water would have enough pitch to the sump pump.
Glad you enjoyed, thanks for watching. The way I used the dimple board was just to allow a channel for the water in the blocks to drain out of the holes I drilled, across the footer and into the drain tile that i have pitched towards the sump crock. Hope this helps!
Thinking bout the same thing did u dig yours out jeff?
@@dannybriar5407 Thanks for the message, Danny. No, I haven't had time yet to work on my interior drain tile project, but hope to do so sometime this winter.
You're not afraid of hard work! You'll never be poor.
I hope that's the case Pete! I appreciate you taking the time to say that! Have a good one
You are a legend!
I wouldn't go that far lol but it's been working well!
@@Tyler_Koehn just bought an Amazon jackhammer do you think that will cut it? Abt a 1k sqft. Also how many inches from the wall do you bust out the concrete? Obviously you don’t want to hit the footer. Mine is poured concrete
@@bhadz100 yeah mine was a amazon special as well. Around 16-18inches away from wall typically
what hammer drill did you use to drill the weep holes? wondering if its worth buying something inexpensive or just renting a heavy duty one for the day
This is what I used. Milwaukee sds plus. I pretty much only buy milwaukee tools. I think it's worth it if you plan on using it again.
www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-1-in-SDS-D-Handle-Rotary-Hammer-5262-21/203000510
That small raised slap in the beginning prolly the washer an dryer an utility tub sink drain
Yea it very well could have been. Thanks for watching!
If you were to finish this basement, and started your walls let’s say 6-8 back from the perimeter drain (leaving that a “cool zone”) - how would you go about venting that area behind the walls?
Maybe I'm missing some context but I would not think it would need to be vented necessarily. I would think it would be treated as though a unfinished section of a finished basement.
What a great video! Do you remember what size gravel you used?
That was 3/4 clear stone
I am not sure if I have seen houses with exterior and interior tile. Wonder if the house was built with exterior tile, it wasn't working or got plugged up and they added the interior. I couldn't tell if the existing concrete at the bottom of the wall was original. I would like to add tile but it's too much of a job. My house has the same basement bathroom setup with the raised pad but my piping runs along the top of the floor. It runs along two walls for about 25 feet and I don't know why they didn't build the bathroom where the pipe goes out the wall but a 2nd bathroom comes in handy. It is one of those old two piece wall aging toilets. You did amazing work and a lot of it. Did it solve your problem?
Thanks BG! Around here (WI) anyways interior and exterior systems are common. exterior system collects the water and feeds it though the footer into the interior system via weep pipes that carry it to your sump basin where it can then be pumped out. It did solve my problem!
That is a big job. How long did it take you to do it?
Yeah It was a bit of a undertaking. Been a while but I'd say maybe 30hrs or so. Thanks for the comment bud.
Info was helpful to give me a general idea of what I'm in for. Our basement gets water but does not have a sump pump. It would cost $6,100 to have it professionally done, but I wonder how much it would cost to do it myself? Obviously it will be cheaper and that's what I'm thinking about doing.
Thanks bud! Holy cow that's alot of money! Yea I'd say doing it yourself would be great. Putting a sump in is the easy part. Plus you get to put it wherever fits your layout and not rely on previous installation!
@@Tyler_Koehn we have a pretty small basement too, so it shouldn't be a whole lot of work and expense.
@@ParadeTheGospel Awesome! Its a great feeling of accomplishment! Plus the obvious of being easy on the pocketbook doesn't hurt either!
@@ParadeTheGospel ik this was 2 years ago.. hows it going now. Im looking at house with this problem. I would like to know what i would be getting into
Drill the mortar joint its a cavity to that holds water
Thank you for mentioning that I totally forgot to include that in the video! I had actually went back and did that too! Good stuff!
Question for you. The house I bought had this done to it several years ago. There is a distinct mold like smell coming from it... that dirt basement kind of smell. At first I thought it might have been behind the plaster, etc on the walls (finished basement). However, not only are there no soft spots but I removed the baseboard trim along one of the walls and it looks rather dry, etc. However, when I got down close to the floor I could feel cool air coming out and it had that mold like smell to it. I think what is happening is that air is getting sucked into the house through the drain pipe that leads outside... possibly from a difference in temperature or something like that. And as the air comes up the pipe and across the dirt, rock, etc, it is picking up that smell.
Does that sound like what might be happening? If so, how do you think I can fix that? My system really doesn't have any kind of access point (beyond what I created when I removed the baseboard). So, I'm not sure how I could try to treat it chemically, etc. Or do you think maybe I just need to do something on the outside to prevent the back draft... like maybe dig a hole and insert some kind of tiny septic like tank at the end of the pipe so the water just goes into that and the pipe has no access to air... thus can't suck it back into the house?
Maybe check into doing s radon abatement system if your thinking that might be what it's from. Basically pulls air from your drain tile system and exhausts it outside so the air from under the home does not come inside. A simple dehumidifier might help with the damp odor as well
@@Tyler_Koehn Thanks for the reply. I will have to look into the radon abatement system. My only concerns might be that there wouldn't be enough suction... that it would just pull air from the pipe leading outside and not the pipe inside the house. And I can't put it on the opposite end of the trench either since that would be the front of the house.
And if it is strong enough to pull air from the trench as well then it would solve the odor problem but I wonder if it would also pull air (heat during winter and cold during summer... plus cause a negative vacuum in the house that pulls outside air in through cracks, etc, elsewhere) from the house since the drainage system is designed to be open to the house via seams next to the wall.
You have given me lots to think about, thanks.
How did you make out? Would it be possible to add a trap in the piping somewhere. Like on your sink.
@@BRICEN18 I think the smell is actually coming from the soil itself. I'm not so sure there is even any water leaking along the wall anymore. When I did a walk around the house when I first bought it I noticed the corner where they said they had the leak wasn't properly sloped on the outside. Water was pooling there. All it took was a few shovels of dirt.
I'm starting to think that I might be able to just get buy with an air purifier in that room. I have noticed that when the heater or AC is running I can't smell anything down there unless I get my nose right up to the wall. It's very faint but adds up if the AC or heater is inactive for hours on end and isn't filtering the air... like on rainy days when it is going to usually be just the right temp outside to keep the inside close to perfect. Thus, it isn't actually the water from the rain causing the smell but the inactive AC/heater.
@@101perspectiveyou need an IQ Air Gas Control GC series
Hello, I take it it’s held up great since then? Thinking about taking on this project. Anything you’d change if you could or any advice?
It's been working great for me to be honest. As long as you read the description about drilling between the blocks
When you were jackhammering out the floor, how did you avoid hitting the footer?
Its a cold joint, so the floor concrete breaks away from it. Just be careful to expose it at first, but it gets easier once you get a feel for it.
how has the job held up 6 years later? I see these also done with perforated drain pipe in the trench with the gravel.
Still going strong without issues. Yes, you definitely want to use perforated drain pipe as did I in this project as thats what allows water to enter the pipeto be carriedto the crock.
Soooo this only helps with water IN the walls right? It doesn’t help the pressure outside? So the walls can still bow/crack correct? Thanks!
Many companies will consider this along with bracing the walls "fixed". In my opinion your really not fixing the root problem even though I'm sure the bandaid will last many years. But your right, there still would be more pressure on this wall than a wall with a properly working exterior drain tile system in place. I have a video on my channel repairing the exterior of the problem corner as well. It was working fine but I knew I wanted to do a more thorough repair. Check it out if you'd like to see my process with that. Thanks for watching Bob!
What kind of fabric did you use ? Some that I found the water doesn't go through it easily...
I was just using landscape fabric. Some fabrics are directional. Water only passes through on one side. Maybe that's the case?
What machine were you using to bust up the concrete, where'd you get it, and how much was it?
Hey bud. Here's a link to the hammer I bought on Amazon. Thanks for watchin.
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0718W1M14/ref=psdcmw_9022402011_t2_B00IO3Z5MS
Dam $100 jack hammer I use a 1100-1200 Makita full do you think Its worth 100
@@thisguyac6309 I have the same hoopty. Works great. Busted up sidewalk with it and my bathroom.
where did you find info on sealing off the dimple membrane, do you have a link? Or was that your idea?
I did this as I also did a radon mitigation system and did not want loss of vacuum.
So did it work? All that great video. Has it stayed dry?
Yep, it did work for me. It stopped leaking completely. The next summer, I was going to grade around the foundation outside, so I did do the exterior in the worst corner. I have a video of that as well.
could had dug infront/ around the water heater. To connect both drains on each side. Where does the water go on that one side? Right side video view. Just curious if you did something Imissed.
I actually just moved the water heater to break out the concrete you can see it removed at 10:43 again at 11:27 and then placed back in at 12:50 . I was doing this over a few days after work so I did not want to be without hot water for the entire project which is why I did this. Thanks for watching
You use 3-1/4” drill bit but how deep do you drill into the concrete? And how far in between each hole?
This is a block wall, so I just drilled through the 1.5" block into the cavity. Typically, there are 2 cavities and in-between each block. Consult a basement professional first.
After watching your video, I started my own project in the basement. But when I start to drill the weep holes, I ran into an issue... I drilled the weep holes on the bottom of block and it was solid. I think it's filled. So I just went little higher and it was solid again... I went 2nd row of block and also solid. Tried block on my chest height to check and it was solid.. I guess my block walls were filled. Do you know if for my situation, do I skip the weep holes? I am stuck.. Can't find info anywhere
I would think your going to have to do exterior work in that case. That is the better fix anyways. I have a video of doing a section of my exterior wall should you want to take a look. Odd they filled your block. I haven't heard of that. Might as well have just poured the walls in that case
@@Tyler_Koehn yea.. it was very odd.. one thing I also found out is that they built the block foundation in front of old stone foundation. I'm guessing they had a structural issue?? I am not expert so I don't know. But thanks! I will check out the exterior solution!
I actually have another question, did you use any bonding agent or rebar dowel when you pour new concrete?
@@slee00316 I did not on my installation. Just fiber additive to the concrete.
how long did it take you to chip out that area with the jack hammer? IE... rental time on the jack hammer? thanks for the video!!
It took me an afternoon. I would say 4 hrs. It's been a while since I did it though. A bigger hammer would for sure speed things up too! Glad to help!
@@Tyler_Koehn very cool... how long did it take you to lug the concrete out of your basement? you're a rockstar!!! :)
@@ExitPlanner ha well I had just broken my tib and fib so it was not fun! That's for sure. Probably took another 4hrs to do that. Used 5 gallon buckets to get it out
Do you get the drain tile close as you can to the footings ??
No, as it should not matter. The clear stone around the pipe and footings bring it to the pipe for the path of least resistance
Did you cut around the perimeter with a concrete saw before using a jack hammer?
I did not. Helps with keying the new concrete to the old but some do cut it first.
Great job 10 inches beyond the footer 4 inch drain tile sitting below the footer and remember weep holes not just the blocks but drill the joint where the blocks meet.
Thanks Dale. Missed it in the editing so I mentioned it in the description about drilling the joints. Thanks for watchin
@@Tyler_Koehn Excellent job and you saved a bundle DIY.
@@daleravic Thank you! Absolutely, did the exterior as well in the bad corner. Would have costed a fortune I imagine haha
@@Tyler_Koehn And last comment all good no water?
@@daleravic haha the most important one! No water!!! Yayy
If water is coming in only at the cold joint and not dripping down the wall behind the gutter, isn't the space between the back of the gutter and the wall just letting moisture into the basement as a result of humid air rising behind the gutter? It seems it would be better to seal between the back of the gutter and the wall near the top of the gutter to keep humid air out.
Not sure if I'm not understanding. The dimpleboard is sealed just below the concrete surface at the wall and slab cold joint. There is no air exchange between the two. Thanks for watching
Do you have to make holes on the block? Thank for the video
Depends on your problem. If you fix the issue from the outside then you don't. I have a video on that as well. Otherwise yes since you are creating a way to drain the water out of the block and into your interior drain tile.
@@Tyler_Koehn great! I was just worried if i could have foundation issues after. Thank you ☺️
@@kcc628 definitely consult with a basement professional before tackeling a project like this
@@Tyler_Koehn yes, thank you Tyler
Just caught you mention radon abatement. I'm thinking I should do the same, any recommendations or tips with possible negative air pressure issues?
I encapsulated the honeycomb grid I installed that drains the blocks with concrete for that reason. Wanted to make sure I drew the air from under the slab vs. taking from the basement air. Has been working out great for me.
@@Tyler_Koehn I see so you ditched the foam thing I take it? I decided to run the dimple board to grade and now need to figure out how to seal it. Thinking silicone and foam insulation.
@@LuisLarreaJr I actually did use the foam backer rod. Then I just poured the concrete over the top of it for my application. Sounds like the silicone would work.
@@Tyler_Koehn I see, because you have cinders and needed the dimple board to catch the runoff from that... so I can probably just use the foam backers and cement as well. What cement did you use for that? Might go that route as well since its probably more affordable.
What size jack hammer you use and how long did it take to do.Did you install the pipe below the footer.
Jackhammer is linked in the video description. A few hours to hammer it out. Pipe is placed next to the footer
Thanks for the reply I was looking at a harbor freight for the jack hammer. I will look in to the one you used from Amazon
How thick was your basement slab and how far from the wall did you break out the concrete? I’m trying to estimate how much concrete I’ll need.
My slab was about 4" thick and broke out about 18" from the wall
@@Tyler_Koehn of the area where you thought was a bathroom in the basement. Was the raised concrete part of the flor slab or was it just sitting on top? I also have an area like that in my basement and wondering what to expect. I’d kinda like to flatten it completely.
@@nickparma8436 I lucked out and it was just poured ontop the existing slab. So it was a "cold joint" is what we refer to around here so it easily broke up. Actually ended up tying into the sewer pipe there and has been working great!
@@Tyler_Koehn how much concrete did you end up using?
I bought the jack hammer you recommended but I’m moving way slower than you are, probably going about feet and hour, you have and tips?
Wow that does seem pretty slow. Only trick I have is to let the hammer do the work don't push on it to hard. Not only does it make your life easier but it allows the hammer to work at full potential
@@Tyler_Koehn Thanks, I'm being more patient and I'm having better results.
Did you cut it with a hazard saw before the hammer?
I did not, but you definitely could!
Where did you buy the dimple board at?
I got it at Menards
Chippy here not a plumber so I’m a bit ignorant. Multi question here: Why does the outside drain tile run through the footing to the inside?...and if it’s to drain the water from under the slab, why can’t you tap into that as an outlet for this new system instead of using the sump pump?
I’m about to do this at home so I have a lot of questions. Thanks in advance 👍🏽
I'm no expert either but if your home was on a slope that your finish grade is lower then under the slab you could gravity feed the water out from inside tile, through the footer to exterior tile and then "daylight" it out the hillside. If that's what your referring to I hope it helps. The reason most of us need dumps is we to not have the option to daylight as the grade around the home requires us to pump it up and then out.
Where do you buy the plastic underneath the dimple board? How did you nailed the plastic, did you use nail gun?
The plastic is just normal plastic sheathing that can be bought from menards / home depot. I just cut it into strips so the concrete didn't contact the gravel.
I did not attach it just placed the concrete carefully to keep it in place.
@@Tyler_Koehn where can you buy the dimple board?
@leesunlung I just purchased locally at menards
I love the video but the music is wild 😂
Haha, royalty free music is slim pickings
Is it important to put a fall on the drain tile?
I'm not a professional! But I would think as long as it's not pitched the wrong way, it's going to find its way over to the crock based on gravity.
Hi were can I buy foam backer to seal the top part
Hey Shloime, This is what i used amzn.to/3hdP3bq Thanks for watching, hope it helped. Please help me by subscribing! Thanks!
What if you just left your drain board high above the finished slab? And cut it off flush after it cured.
Could have definitely done that. I wanted to seal it as there are radon issues in my area so I wanted it to be as airtight as possible for the radon mitigation system I later installed. Thanks for watching
how well did this work
Its been working great for me. I did dig up the outside in the bad corner as well to re tuckpoint the wall because of how bad it was however it was no longer leaking at that point.
@@Tyler_Koehn im having this issue in my garage from the water behind it but we dont have these products in the uk
How deep should the trench be from the top of the footer ??
depends on the amount of run to your sump. you want it to be sloped but as long as its not negative slope it should fulfill it job
Where did u get the dimple board that goes at the base of the wall.
Menards, which is a store here in the midwest. Typically used for against the foundation on the exterior.
What did you use for drain tile pipe?
Hey nick, Its called perforated drain and sewer pipe.
Did you lay new perforated pipe around the perimeter? I didn’t catch that in the video.
Yep I went with 3" perforated solid pipe. Was nice to work with and I prefer the solid incase I ever would need to snake it.
@@Tyler_Koehn thanks for the reply. Did you dig underneath all the existing water pipe (like your waste water pipe) and other utility pipes? How far did you go underneath it. I have a drain for my laundry where I would have to maneuver around it. Just curious how you lay your pipe around that?
@@rvwjboi23 I just went right next to my footer. Luckily I did not have any issues with a pipe blocking the path. You probably don't want to go under any pipe as you would have to maintain that depth all the way to your sump basin. (To maintain pitch to drain)
How did this end up workingout?
Still working great!
Did it fix your problem? Was there any drain tile around the outside of the house?
It did fix it but I still decided to dig up the exterior and fix it properly since the grade outside needed to be fixed anyways so it was already 1/3 dug out for me. There is tile outside however i doubt it was working and it was not around the corner. Heres the video of the exterior job ua-cam.com/video/FSHKbmb8Q8A/v-deo.html
@@Tyler_Koehn thanks Tyler. I'm reading up on it for a friend. I used to do this work 30 years ago and wants to point them in the right direction
@@ROImediaGuy No problem. Good luck!
How do you know about radon and that your mitigation was needed?
You can get radon tests. I got mine from the local municipal health dept but they can be ordered online if you wish.
There's longterm and short term test. Longterm is the better option from what I understand
Very helpful video man. Did you find the dimple board online? The name brand mira drain is expensive stuff.
Thanks mate
Glad to help. I actually was able to source it locally at menards.
I have a system like this in my house. It always smells though. I'm told that this is a good sign since it means it is dry in there. How do I minimize the smell though? Is an air filter system my only choice or can I do something like use some kind of clear sealant around the wood floor trim to help seal them?
yeah not too sure why it would smell unless its from moisture which wouldn't necessarily be a good thing. Does it smell musty? You could look into doing a radon abatement as that would pull the air from under the slab with the fan out of your home.
how many linear feet? How long did it take to break up and remove concrete?
I believe it was about 70 ft. Took maybe 3hrs to break up and another 2 or 3 to haul it all out of the basement
@@Tyler_Koehn which bit did you use more for the jackhammer the chisel or the pointed one?
@@randallmorrison3133 I used the chise pointl. It allows you to make more controlled breaks once your familiar with the tool. Thanks for watching and please do me a favor by hitting the subscribe. Thanks!
@@randallmorrison3133 furthermore I find the point likes to wedge itself in the kerf
@@Tyler_Koehn ty
When jack hammering... How do you know when to stop without breaking the footer?
Being a cold joint (two separate concrete pours) they are not bonded together so when you are breaking off a piece of floor it will actually break away from the footer. Starting your first hole is really the only time you have to be kind of careful until you expose the footer. Really not difficult once your doing it
@@Tyler_Koehn Thanks for the reply and info! That was one thing I was worried about.
@@BenjaminSeeman no problem bud
what type of concrete did you use? cheers
Just bagged all purpose, I did add fiber to it
What was the expense for this I am experiencing the same problem and I am wondering is this my problem
Expense was not much a few hundred bucks for the concrete and pipe
@@Tyler_Koehn wow wish I knew how to DIY 😩😩😩
Where does the sump out put go?
Just runs out into the yard
How’s your system today? Have you posted any updates?
Still going strong Drew!
What kind of concrete did you use?
This was just bagged all purpose concrete from menards. Didn't really feel like mixing concrete like I had originally planned to do
Where can I find the dimple board?
HollidayProduction This is the product I used. Thanks for watching. www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/foundation-protection/dmx-air-gap-73-foundation-wrap-kit/223-20k/p-1462541330946-c-9532.htm?tid=3995383900478116482&ipos=2
Thank you very much I just purchased some today
HollidayProduction good luck bud!
HollidayProduction metro sealant
I've heard White Cap in Columbus, OH will have everything you need. I have to do this to my basement too.
When tax season comes and my bonus from work I’m going to have my basement water proofed for sure. Can’t take this anymore it’s so annoying. Out here in New England all we been getting is rain and it’s December
I know your frustration bud! Have a good one
Joys of home ownership
Isn't that the truth!! Have a good one bud!