Just stumbled across your channel, Love the Mouse Motors. And cheap builds for poor retired guys guys. I traded my L76 for 396 in 1968 and wish I never had. Aluminum heads on a 327 with a strong cam and valve springs will turn 7,000 rpm and make your heart fly. Watching You know. Dennis in Virginia
An old school mechanic I knew used to use grease on gaskets because it made them swell witch helped them seal plus if you needed to remove them they would remove easy & it rarely ruined the gaskets. Love the videos great content.
Summit racing makes a ring compressor steel coller with a tapper ,this is a must installing pistons. The band type through those out . Perfectly sized for each piston size.
Yep, there are a lot of engines you almost can't find anymore! 283's, 327's, 396's 427's, and on and on. Got a 283 I'm holding onto, and in the process of building a 427 drag race engine, using OE parts except the Manely rods/pistons. Still have the OE rods and pistons if I ever want them. Have an original, never used, 427 forged crank, and using reworked 781 heads. Going to be a blast in my 2750 lbs '83 S10. Would like to find an old Vega to put the 283 in!
I recommend putting a cam trust button and that will keep the cam from walking in and out of the block hitting the timing cover and reducing early timing chain stretch and failure.
I've been watching other people on line and what I can make of putting cam bearing in is make sure you line up the hole in the bearing in the engine block because if you don't you more than likely will have to sell the for scrap. Oh also will need to make sure you put the bearings in the Appropriate holes 🕳 because they are different size anyway thats what I hear on UTUBE. Anyway thanks for listening and good luck with the build.
You seemed to have a little trouble with the ring compressor. You should look into the tapered tube tool some actually have adjustable clamps for oversize bores. Also a piece of tubing on the rod bolts helps align the rod so it don't scratch the crank going in. There has been several reports of flat tappet cams scuffing on start up. I would have coated each lobe with molly lube. I love the heater for the wrist pins great for the DIY guy. I missed you installing the rear seal. Drop one side down about 3/8 inch below the parting line and skim the ends with silicone. I loved the whole build, er except the color. Keep em coming
lol, chevy orange is still my favorite but if you do a little research you will find a few variations where used through the years. Plus this is going into a GMC.... and as far as the sin goes, well, your're on your own.
@@TheJayhawker 100 % agreed The first 265 in 1955 was actually painted red and later ones 305's were painted blue and truck and marine versions were painted green. Just having a little fun as I always loved a perfectly painted small or big block Chevy Orange.
I went to a technical college and learned some things.. Typically machine shops use 50 percent engine oil and 50 percent stp for the pressed in piston pin. Apply it to the pinto the piston. Also good for valve guides. This is old skool advice. The top ring gap seems tight as well. Everybody uses 350 engines now but don't let that fool you...The 327 is a great engine. 327 is more iconic than the 350...be sure you use Molly lube on the cam lobes cause the quality control on the cams wenr to heck. Cam break in is more important now. My dad showed me stuff...My dad is in his 80s age wise.
You could always use the adapter they sell to use tbi vortec heads with old school valve covers. I agree with wanting the higher nickel heads. I have a variety of heads myself but only one set of virtec heads. Good video.
I was gonna comment on the Apple wrist watch when I first saw it but thought I'd wait until the end of the video. Then, it was too late; you went ahead & spilled the beans. Looks delicious -- is it a Macintosh? Loved the video! Thanks for the comments on what you're doing & why; it's very helpful.
Its pretty easy to put a crank scraper in. Frees up some horses and keeps oil in the pan. Moroso makes a nice one. Take all day to do it right however she looks real nice when you are all done!!!!
The best rocker covers to use on a 327 are naturally the chrome 327 Turbo-Fire ones that have the flat in the middle for the sticker and the diamond shape dimpling on either side. The best 2 street manifolds they don't make anymore (go figure) - which are the Weiand Stealth and the Holley 300-36 (the Z28 manifold) , the stealth is idle - to 7000 and a bit more for the Holley (well as we know, the DZ302 can rev to over 8000rpm without much encouragement)
Since I am a huge fan of Detroit Diesel engines Alpine Green is naturally my favorite engine enamel. When I rebuilt the 5.7 in my K2500 there was only one choice for the paint color.
I realize that the main bearings have an upper and a lower and they cannot be mixed on the same journal. Is it the same with the rod journals. or does it make any difference?
Look great. I just don't know how feasible using the old "no hole" valve covers is going to be. One thing just leads to another. Q-Jet be cool but not sure if it will work well with the kick down linkage and power brakes. Not sure if a two piece rear main works with a one piece seal flex plate either. Should be fun :) Good Luck!
The tbi virtec flex plate that goes with the one piece rear main is very small and will Not fit on that old school engine. I do agree with you about not having the Drive belt accessories though. I e heard they drill them or build a plate that bolts to the front and they shim the bottom pulley out some to accommodate.
Sage advice to not go there with putting the pistons together in the house. The little lady gets upset enough with a few drops of coffee on the countertop.
what about the special guest hangin out under the service truck at 11:50 lol iv had my hands on allot of 327's never owned one every time i try to find one its been replaced with a 350 people from down south like to come to WI and take all the good stuff lol i was told many years ago that a 307 chevy crank and a 283 block makes a 327 but i never tried it and i did just locate a classic car yard in the middle of no where so maybe ill get lucky tiger torch or a torpedo heater works well for heating rods in the cold we dont normally cool the pins keep the smaller ports cut the valve seats more velocity and torque less fuel like a peanut port
I believe a 307 is a 283 block and a 327 crank. If you feel like making a trip or paying a couple hundred bucks for freight I have the other 327 block I would sell. It needs machine work. Thanks for watching.
Yes, it's different but I want it to look different. Although it wasn't common to see, this green was used by both GMC and Chevy back in the 60's on inlines and v8's. And being it's going into a GMC, Chevy orange would be a questionable choice as well. Of course it's going into an '86 when everything was black and boring anyway... Thanks for watching!
Your right about black being boring, I understand about the green paint, I just prefer the Chevy orange, I like the budget build, I love all the work you did yourself. Sorry if I offered you about the paint color.
That there Apple watch - does it have one of them Intel core processors? I like to read about the history of the small-block Chevy engine. Did you know it was available in something like 265 to 400 cubic inches through the years of its production? In all that time, the external dimensions of the block never changed, and it bolted to all the available transmissions. Talk about modular! I find that amazing and convenient - when other manufacturers were making all sorts of things that were far from interchangeable. With regard to oil, I had always heard that as long as you stuck with the same brand, you were OK. Lately, I just use what I can find in the store. Seems like they never have the same thing on the shelf anymore.....
love your video! I have a chevy 350 that I want to freshen up without machining. I specifically want to replace the main and rod bearings to increase engine longevity. So regarding the rod bearings, can I just replace them, do the clearance checks, and retorque them without having to change the rod bolts/nuts? Its just a stock, average HP late 70' engine that is just a daily driver. Thoughts on this?
The original small block chevy had torque specs for the rods and the mains that didn't include extra torque till it turns 45 degrees or whatnot. If you see torquimg and then turning the bolts so many trees, thous
If they are rod or main bearing caps don't seem to settle in and need more torques,,,replace them bolts. I had head bolts on a 350 that I did the three step process on with increasing torque. As I reached final torque specs, the bolts would still move. Pay attention to stuff. Those head bolts were junk!. When you make your final pass at full torque and they move after that final pass...bolts are junk. Moving a tiny bit is ok but if you go thru and see you are turning bolts more than a lil bit on the second pass at full torque...Those bolts were junk crap. Same with mains. Not a single one was stretched visibly or necked... I want everybody here to have good experiences with the small block chevy engines. I am not here to damage about this guys videos...I enjoy them very much
@32:32 I'd be willing to suffer it awhile if it put us in the winners circle - OF COURSE! When uou're eating warm peach cobbler at your bench in the shop, there's the fragarence of varsol and brake kleen on the palate, and the cobbler is still perfectly AWESOME. Women just have a strange way of looking at the world, but, they also know we love 'em so . . . .
@@TheJayhawker Same here. I’ve tried lots of things over the years but this works best for me. Mix together flour, sugar, and Portland cement and set out in small containers.
@@thomasholkesvig6432 In a shop I prefer to use rat size glue traps with some peanuts in the center. The whole family usually shows up for supper. With poison they usually die in their hidey holes and it stinks the shop up for awhile. Thanks for the tip, and for watching!
Do you ever use any ARP studs or bolts of theirs? I’m rebuilding a 327 out of an early corvette. So just checking on what you have best luck with on these older engines
My father swore by ARP so if I have the money I would definitely do it. Once you get the rotating assembly squared away with good crank and ARP rod bolts. You can thrash on that thing for years to come.
I want that 327 crank and block your not using or the 307 and the heads with the big valves building a little hotrod motor for my 84 silverado got a comp cam 501 lift and a weiand 3504 intake with a 750 holley ....I have a buildable 350 in it but really want a 327
Sorry for the wait. I have a 307 with 4 bolt mains for sale on ebay for $450 but am negotiable. I would also sell the other 327 block and crank. Email me a ratzlaffmotorco@gmail.com if you're interested. You can see the 307 listing here: www.ebay.com/itm/184985787962
Quite a few guys that run 4 wheel off-road prefer 2 BBL carbs because rhe rhrottle response is INASINE. CID x Max rpm you will go = in3 per minute. So, say you feel your rotating assembly and valvetrain can turn 6,600 rpm - then 327 3.25" Stroke with a 4.040 bore is 333 cubes 333 cubes turning 6.6k rippims is: 2,197,800 cubic imches per minute There are 1,728 cubic inches in a Cu Ft, so 2,197,800 ÷1728 1,272 cfm. 6,600 is likely WAY beyond your intentions, so, keeping the "redline" far morw tame, (let's call it 5,200) you'd want a max of 1,000 cfm. You asked for recommendations, and I guess all of the above is to say, "Do not over-carburate," or you won't idle worth a tinker's whoop-dee-do - and your off idle transition and all other fuel circuit transitions will be garbage.
I wanted to paint my engine at the machinists after being in the hot tank, but he said hold on and got one of those weed burner blow torches and uniformly heated each side of the block - and a whole bunch of trapped moisture came bubbling up to the surface. I will never just paint an engine again after that, maybe you could use a BBQ to heat it up if you don't have a gas bottle.
That's interesting. I wonder if over time most of that would evaporate. I've known that iron and steel can hold moisture but have never considered doing that. Thanks for the comment.
I am not an expert engine builder but over the past 40 years have learned a lot. You have a great handle here and I appreciate it👍👍👍😁 the camel humps with good porting can be awesome. Watch David Vizards porting videos and give it a try after practicing on a set that are not that hard to get. You will not be disappointed👍👍👍
The 2 barrel carbs aren't as efficient as a quadrajet... I drove many and used to record my mileage between fuel stops.. The qjet is frowned upon cause Holley guys can't wrap their head around em. Excellent car carb for street use. The dualjet is decent but they quadrajet is way better fuel economy wise. My 1973 impala had the q and had excellent power . Mine got 17 mpg and that was better than the 2 Bbl version in same car.
@31:34 DON'T DO IT, MAN! Look, it's not like we were best friends since kintergarden or something, but I SUPPORT strong marriages and strong familes. My experience (and observations about how you roll) sugggests that, if you start assembling engine in the home of a woman you find irresistably beautiful, she will remember this - FOREVER. These "little things" add up, and if you cross a certain threshold (that there is no actual measurable spec for), yojr poor bride will simply be COMELED by her own instincts some evening, in the still of the night, to kill you - you know - as much as she loves you and knows she'll miss you and all. So, in the end, she'll be sad, and you'll be - well . . . past your expiration date. 😁 I agree with you about mot jsing gloves when assembling parts where tolerances are super-close, and the tinies bit of grit can wreck havoc . . . but that 1st thing I said is WAY more important to your physical health and well-being. As men, we all need these important reminders. As me how I know - better still - DON'T!
After seeing and removing so many old rusty steel core plugs i just can't bring myself to use them 😂 Brass plugs only for me, its worth the few extra bucks for the piece of mind to me, and I don't install them till after paint, just a personal preference though, I just like the way the brass looks and stands out against the engine color
I never did tell what it was. This cam is just a mild upgrade from stock, or what they used to call an RV cam. The last thing I want is a rough idle. Thanks for the comment.
@@TheJayhawker I’ve got 400 small block we built for drag racing and it’s been in our 72 Chevy truck for years, it’s got the mild RV cam in it. It’s just a nice little motor with plenty of power to tow or play with, our main drag engines we go with custom grinds but those are bigger motors but still in the small block category
Here's some light reading for you, check out the 2 piece seal instructions. Thanks for watching! www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/how-to-install-rear-main-seal.html
@@TheJayhawker I have installed many a rear main seals on chevys. You have the it in wrong. Look at the felpro instructions again. Large lip goes towards the inside.
@@garyrise7696 Went back to look at the video and you're absolutely correct. After yakking on about not putting it in backwards that's exactly what I did. That's the unfortunate thing about public videos, and also the fortunate thing. I will pop that cap off and flip it. I have also trimmed that part of the video out so I don't lead anyone else astray. Thanks for pointing it out sir.
327 is one of my favorites I built one for my 75 Vega. Love those high revving small blocks.
Just stumbled across your channel, Love the Mouse Motors. And cheap builds for poor retired guys guys. I traded my L76 for 396 in 1968 and wish I never had. Aluminum heads on a 327 with a strong cam and valve springs will turn 7,000 rpm and make your heart fly. Watching You know. Dennis in Virginia
An old school mechanic I knew used to use grease on gaskets because it made them swell witch helped them seal plus if you needed to remove them they would remove easy & it rarely ruined the gaskets. Love the videos great content.
Mouse Motor with a mouse at 11.54 love the video
Summit racing makes a ring compressor steel coller with a tapper ,this is a must installing pistons. The band type through those out . Perfectly sized for each piston size.
Cute little mouse ran across the background around the 12 minute mark.
Yep, there are a lot of engines you almost can't find anymore! 283's, 327's, 396's 427's, and on and on. Got a 283 I'm holding onto, and in the process of building a 427 drag race engine, using OE parts except the Manely rods/pistons. Still have the OE rods and pistons if I ever want them. Have an original, never used, 427 forged crank, and using reworked 781 heads. Going to be a blast in my 2750 lbs '83 S10.
Would like to find an old Vega to put the 283 in!
I recommend putting a cam trust button and that will keep the cam from walking in and out of the block hitting the timing cover and reducing early timing chain stretch and failure.
I've been watching other people on line and what I can make of putting cam bearing in is make sure you line up the hole in the bearing in the engine block because if you don't you more than likely will have to sell the for scrap. Oh also will need to make sure you put the bearings in the Appropriate holes 🕳 because they are different size anyway thats what I hear on UTUBE. Anyway thanks for listening and good luck with the build.
Holds up very very well!!
You seemed to have a little trouble with the ring compressor. You should look into the tapered tube tool some actually have adjustable clamps for oversize bores. Also a piece of tubing on the rod bolts helps align the rod so it don't scratch the crank going in. There has been several reports of flat tappet cams scuffing on start up. I would have coated each lobe with molly lube. I love the heater for the wrist pins great for the DIY guy. I missed you installing the rear seal. Drop one side down about 3/8 inch below the parting line and skim the ends with silicone. I loved the whole build, er except the color. Keep em coming
Yup Smokey Yunick would be proud!!!!!
Keep up the good work!!!!
JMO! It is a sin not to paint a Chevy block , Chevy Orange.
lol, chevy orange is still my favorite but if you do a little research you will find a few variations where used through the years. Plus this is going into a GMC.... and as far as the sin goes, well, your're on your own.
@@TheJayhawker 100 % agreed The first 265 in 1955 was actually painted red and later ones 305's were painted blue and truck and marine versions were painted green. Just having a little fun as I always loved a perfectly painted small or big block Chevy Orange.
Hell yea thats a beautiful motor and very well respected still in demand up to this day
Great video!
I went to a technical college and learned some things..
Typically machine shops use 50 percent engine oil and 50 percent stp for the pressed in piston pin. Apply it to the pinto the piston. Also good for valve guides. This is old skool advice.
The top ring gap seems tight as well.
Everybody uses 350 engines now but don't let that fool you...The 327 is a great engine. 327 is more iconic than the 350...be sure you use Molly lube on the cam lobes cause the quality control on the cams wenr to heck. Cam break in is more important now. My dad showed me stuff...My dad is in his 80s age wise.
I'm just gonna say I love watching these builds, and I dig the colour. I must be the only guy who would never paint an engine orange.
Some love it, some hate it. To me Chevy orange in a GMC makes no sense at all. Thanks for watching!
You could always use the adapter they sell to use tbi vortec heads with old school valve covers. I agree with wanting the higher nickel heads. I have a variety of heads myself but only one set of virtec heads. Good video.
Vortec heads are great heads, you can easily make 500+hp with them!
I was gonna comment on the Apple wrist watch when I first saw it but thought I'd wait until the end of the video. Then, it was too late; you went ahead & spilled the beans. Looks delicious -- is it a Macintosh? Loved the video! Thanks for the comments on what you're doing & why; it's very helpful.
Just showing publicly how strange my mind can be...Thanks for watching!
Saw that and was gonna say something too
Its pretty easy to put a crank scraper in. Frees up some horses and keeps oil in the pan. Moroso makes a nice one. Take all day to do it right however she looks real nice when you are all done!!!!
I too have been refered to as "An Original Old Crank". 🤣🤣🤣
The best rocker covers to use on a 327 are naturally the chrome 327 Turbo-Fire ones that have the flat in the middle for the sticker and the diamond shape dimpling on either side. The best 2 street manifolds they don't make anymore (go figure) - which are the Weiand Stealth and the Holley 300-36 (the Z28 manifold) , the stealth is idle - to 7000 and a bit more for the Holley (well as we know, the DZ302 can rev to over 8000rpm without much encouragement)
I build a lot of sblocks and put at 2 to 3 oclock but put a small groove from oil hole down to bottom were load is on cam works very well
hahahah the mouse under truck at 12;02 was cool
Since I am a huge fan of Detroit Diesel engines Alpine Green is naturally my favorite engine enamel. When I rebuilt the 5.7 in my K2500 there was only one choice for the paint color.
nice. I love the orange, but corporate blue and alpine green are great ways to do something different.
I realize that the main bearings have an upper and a lower and they cannot be mixed on the same journal. Is it the same with the rod journals. or does it make any difference?
your little helper mouse ran across screen streaking at about 11:30
11:53 Mouse runs across your shop floor, behind You
no worries, he's been pushin up daises for a years now...
Look great. I just don't know how feasible using the old "no hole" valve covers is going to be. One thing just leads to another. Q-Jet be cool but not sure if it will work well with the kick down linkage and power brakes. Not sure if a two piece rear main works with a one piece seal flex plate either. Should be fun :) Good Luck!
The tbi virtec flex plate that goes with the one piece rear main is very small and will Not fit on that old school engine. I do agree with you about not having the Drive belt accessories though. I e heard they drill them or build a plate that bolts to the front and they shim the bottom pulley out some to accommodate.
I hang around guys like that and their trash is my treasure
Sage advice to not go there with putting the pistons together in the house. The little lady gets upset enough with a few drops of coffee on the countertop.
Hi, Anybody else see the SBC mouse run across the screen at 11:52, After all the SBC is called a mouse motor..Right"..
what about the special guest hangin out under the service truck at 11:50 lol iv had my hands on allot of 327's never owned one every time i try to find one its been replaced with a 350 people from down south like to come to WI and take all the good stuff lol i was told many years ago that a 307 chevy crank and a 283 block makes a 327 but i never tried it and i did just locate a classic car yard in the middle of no where so maybe ill get lucky tiger torch or a torpedo heater works well for heating rods in the cold we dont normally cool the pins keep the smaller ports cut the valve seats more velocity and torque less fuel like a peanut port
I believe a 307 is a 283 block and a 327 crank. If you feel like making a trip or paying a couple hundred bucks for freight I have the other 327 block I would sell. It needs machine work. Thanks for watching.
I love the work you are doing on the old 327, but I hate the green paint, should have been chevy orange.
Yes, it's different but I want it to look different. Although it wasn't common to see, this green was used by both GMC and Chevy back in the 60's on inlines and v8's. And being it's going into a GMC, Chevy orange would be a questionable choice as well. Of course it's going into an '86 when everything was black and boring anyway... Thanks for watching!
Your right about black being boring, I understand about the green paint, I just prefer the Chevy orange, I like the budget build, I love all the work you did yourself. Sorry if I offered you about the paint color.
@@Alabama-mike55 No offense at all, glad to have you along.
I love your Apple Watch. it helps you to be on time huh?
love the mouse
11:52 mouse running around under the white truck
Amsoil flavored peach cobbler? Yes please
Should definitely soak those lifters in oil overnight before install.
What is the color of the block called?and manufacturer of paint?
That there Apple watch - does it have one of them Intel core processors? I like to read about the history of the small-block Chevy engine. Did you know it was available in something like 265 to 400 cubic inches through the years of its production? In all that time, the external dimensions of the block never changed, and it bolted to all the available transmissions. Talk about modular! I find that amazing and convenient - when other manufacturers were making all sorts of things that were far from interchangeable. With regard to oil, I had always heard that as long as you stuck with the same brand, you were OK. Lately, I just use what I can find in the store. Seems like they never have the same thing on the shelf anymore.....
There was a 262 offered in the monza in the 1970s.
love your video! I have a chevy 350 that I want to freshen up without machining. I specifically want to replace the main and rod bearings to increase engine longevity. So regarding the rod bearings, can I just replace them, do the clearance checks, and retorque them without having to change the rod bolts/nuts? Its just a stock, average HP late 70' engine that is just a daily driver. Thoughts on this?
The original small block chevy had torque specs for the rods and the mains that didn't include extra torque till it turns 45 degrees or whatnot. If you see torquimg and then turning the bolts so many trees, thous
If they are rod or main bearing caps don't seem to settle in and need more torques,,,replace them bolts. I had head bolts on a 350 that I did the three step process on with increasing torque. As I reached final torque specs, the bolts would still move. Pay attention to stuff. Those head bolts were junk!.
When you make your final pass at full torque and they move after that final pass...bolts are junk. Moving a tiny bit is ok but if you go thru and see you are turning bolts more than a lil bit on the second pass at full torque...Those bolts were junk crap. Same with mains. Not a single one was stretched visibly or necked...
I want everybody here to have good experiences with the small block chevy engines. I am not here to damage about this guys videos...I enjoy them very much
lol......that was pretty real. Refreshing.
@32:32 I'd be willing to suffer it awhile if it put us in the winners circle - OF COURSE! When uou're eating warm peach cobbler at your bench in the shop, there's the fragarence of varsol and brake kleen on the palate, and the cobbler is still perfectly AWESOME.
Women just have a strange way of looking at the world, but, they also know we love 'em so . . . .
Nice build! You had a critter scamper across the floor at 11:55 btw
lol yeah, been waging war on 'em lately!
@@TheJayhawker Same here. I’ve tried lots of things over the years but this works best for me. Mix together flour, sugar, and Portland cement and set out in small containers.
Try out first strike soft bait. I take care of grain elevators. Works great you won’t be disappointed. Just make sure your pets can’t get to it.
@@thomasholkesvig6432 In a shop I prefer to use rat size glue traps with some peanuts in the center. The whole family usually shows up for supper. With poison they usually die in their hidey holes and it stinks the shop up for awhile. Thanks for the tip, and for watching!
OYE, solve all of your problems and adopt a cat. ;-)
Sweet
I wanna build a 327 so bad! For my 69 nova
Do you ever use any ARP studs or bolts of theirs? I’m rebuilding a 327 out of an early corvette. So just checking on what you have best luck with on these older engines
Yes I have used their products and they are great, and as far as I know they are made in the US. Have fun with the 327!
Yes you absolutely should use ARP they are first choice.
My father swore by ARP so if I have the money I would definitely do it. Once you get the rotating assembly squared away with good crank and ARP rod bolts. You can thrash on that thing for years to come.
I want that 327 crank and block your not using or the 307 and the heads with the big valves building a little hotrod motor for my 84 silverado got a comp cam 501 lift and a weiand 3504 intake with a 750 holley ....I have a buildable 350 in it but really want a 327
Sorry for the wait. I have a 307 with 4 bolt mains for sale on ebay for $450 but am negotiable. I would also sell the other 327 block and crank. Email me a ratzlaffmotorco@gmail.com if you're interested.
You can see the 307 listing here: www.ebay.com/itm/184985787962
Love the true apple watch.
if that 62 327 was equipped with a 4bbl, it would have been a carter afb, not a q-jet
Your service truck would also look good green.
Some of it may be..now :)
Quite a few guys that run 4 wheel off-road prefer 2 BBL carbs because rhe rhrottle response is INASINE.
CID x Max rpm you will go = in3 per minute. So, say you feel your rotating assembly and valvetrain can turn 6,600 rpm - then 327 3.25" Stroke with a 4.040 bore is 333 cubes
333 cubes turning 6.6k rippims is:
2,197,800 cubic imches per minute
There are 1,728 cubic inches in a Cu Ft, so
2,197,800
÷1728
1,272 cfm.
6,600 is likely WAY beyond your intentions, so, keeping the "redline" far morw tame, (let's call it 5,200) you'd want a max of 1,000 cfm.
You asked for recommendations, and I guess all of the above is to say, "Do not over-carburate," or you won't idle worth a tinker's whoop-dee-do - and your off idle transition and all other fuel circuit transitions will be garbage.
@46:30 Just throw that anywhere. If you can't fimd it later, it wasn't that important anyhow. :D
Gen 1 SBC is best engines ever made period.
58CC!! Those are SMALL chambers.
Quacker Oats 10w 50
What’s with the apple
My vote is to use the new edelbrock carb and manifold
Probably go with the edelbrock carb, but really want the old school oil filler neck...Thanks for the input
I wanted to paint my engine at the machinists after being in the hot tank, but he said hold on and got one of those weed burner blow torches and uniformly heated each side of the block - and a whole bunch of trapped moisture came bubbling up to the surface. I will never just paint an engine again after that, maybe you could use a BBQ to heat it up if you don't have a gas bottle.
That's interesting. I wonder if over time most of that would evaporate. I've known that iron and steel can hold moisture but have never considered doing that. Thanks for the comment.
I would bet that moister would come out the first time you run it. Seeing how I have never seen a water bubble under the paint on an engine.
Quadrajet is best for everyday drive ability plus economy of driven sensibly.👍👍👍😤😁
I am not an expert engine builder but over the past 40 years have learned a lot. You have a great handle here and I appreciate it👍👍👍😁 the camel humps with good porting can be awesome. Watch David Vizards porting videos and give it a try after practicing on a set that are not that hard to get. You will not be disappointed👍👍👍
Why not use a Rochester two barrel carb , that would give you the best gas mileage and fuel efficiency. Only if you use the smaller valve heads
The 2 barrel carbs aren't as efficient as a quadrajet... I drove many and used to record my mileage between fuel stops.. The qjet is frowned upon cause Holley guys can't wrap their head around em. Excellent car carb for street use. The dualjet is decent but they quadrajet is way better fuel economy wise. My 1973 impala had the q and had excellent power .
Mine got 17 mpg and that was better than the 2 Bbl version in same car.
@31:34 DON'T DO IT, MAN! Look, it's not like we were best friends since kintergarden or something, but I SUPPORT strong marriages and strong familes. My experience (and observations about how you roll) sugggests that, if you start assembling engine in the home of a woman you find irresistably beautiful, she will remember this - FOREVER.
These "little things" add up, and if you cross a certain threshold (that there is no actual measurable spec for), yojr poor bride will simply be COMELED by her own instincts some evening, in the still of the night, to kill you - you know - as much as she loves you and knows she'll miss you and all.
So, in the end, she'll be sad, and you'll be - well . . . past your expiration date. 😁
I agree with you about mot jsing gloves when assembling parts where tolerances are super-close, and the tinies bit of grit can wreck havoc . . . but that 1st thing I said is WAY more important to your physical health and well-being.
As men, we all need these important reminders. As me how I know - better still - DON'T!
After seeing and removing so many old rusty steel core plugs i just can't bring myself to use them 😂 Brass plugs only for me, its worth the few extra bucks for the piece of mind to me, and I don't install them till after paint, just a personal preference though, I just like the way the brass looks and stands out against the engine color
I agree 100%. I don't remember if I showed it in this video but that's exactly what I did on the 305 that I am now replacing with the 327.
I think I would have at least went with a stock 327 cam.
I never did tell what it was. This cam is just a mild upgrade from stock, or what they used to call an RV cam. The last thing I want is a rough idle. Thanks for the comment.
@@TheJayhawker I’ve got 400 small block we built for drag racing and it’s been in our 72 Chevy truck for years, it’s got the mild RV cam in it. It’s just a nice little motor with plenty of power to tow or play with, our main drag engines we go with custom grinds but those are bigger motors but still in the small block category
Nice tutorial, done a few small block chevys in my day, you are very thorough!
Please don’t tell me you gonna use polish compounds on a crank.
mouse at 11:53 lol
My wife finally has an excuse for her TERRIBLE COOKING..
Rear main seal is in backwards.
Here's some light reading for you, check out the 2 piece seal instructions. Thanks for watching! www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/how-to-install-rear-main-seal.html
@@TheJayhawker I have installed many a rear main seals on chevys. You have the it in wrong. Look at the felpro instructions again. Large lip goes towards the inside.
@@garyrise7696 Went back to look at the video and you're absolutely correct. After yakking on about not putting it in backwards that's exactly what I did. That's the unfortunate thing about public videos, and also the fortunate thing. I will pop that cap off and flip it. I have also trimmed that part of the video out so I don't lead anyone else astray. Thanks for pointing it out sir.
@@TheJayhawker Just didn't want you to have an oil leak after you got it installed and running.
I don't care if you had a 55 gallon drum of Alpine Green left over. It's a sacrilege to paint a small block anything other than Chevy Orange.
Now why would I put a Chevy orange engine in a GMC? Thanks for watching despite the color!
sacrilege not chevy otange
Does Chevy orange belong in a GMC? Thanks for watching. God Bless.
Pontiac never had a "big block". Not did Oldsmobile. All the engines had the same outside block dementions.
AMC 290-401 also had the same dimensions.