Exact same jig with a Router table + Fence setup + dovetail bit should allow for Really Fast Dovetails right?! (I'm thinking templates don't need to be dovetail shaped if we're using a dovetail bit in the router)
Oh my Gosh that’s Brilliant! Thank you! Also I really appreciate a nice short video that clearly demonstrates how to use this box. So many instructional videos have a 15 minute introduction, repeating the same thing over and over.
Absolutely love it! I recently watched someone setting up a very professional and incredibly complex jig. Did the same job as yours - cost around £200 (I kid you not!) and took about 30 mins just to set up. Actually, it didn't do the same job as yours because you couldn't mix and match different size fingers without a very long and way too complex a process. Will download plans because you deserve the dollars for showing such a brilliant jig. Thank you!
I really like your design. One small suggestion about your wording though. At 2:50 you say "Keeping the same side against the fence". I was confused because a crosscut fence is usually perpendicular to the saw blade. After watching it several times I can now see you're referring to the registration fence which is parallel to the saw blade. Because your workpiece has a knot or some other mark on it. It was easy to see that the peace that is facing out initially becomes the piece facing the operator. I initially thought that you had rotated the piece on the other axis. This makes no sense to someone who understands the whole process, But for a first time listener like me it was a source of confusion. You might consider marking the 2 pieces A and B. Or explaining why you want to keep the same edge against the registration fence. Your explanation is great and it helped me understand mistakes I was making while following a different process. Thanks for your efforts.
Great solution! Will build this jig in a few days time for sure. Thanks! One thing though, on the back side of the jig the plywood pieces may not snugly fit depending on the pieces used. I will put a bolt with a knob on it through one end of the backside of the jig (of course with a nut inserted in the side piece where it goes through) so I can tighten it and get rid of the remaining space if there is any.
Brilliant in its simplicity. As my saw will not take a dado blade set, I have struggled with ways to make these joints. Thanks for this - I'm off to make one.
This is genius. I could figure it out from watching the video, but I was happy to pay for the plan- your development work and original concept need to be rewarded!
I’ve been planning to build a box joint jig. Your design looks so straightforward, easy to setup, modify and use that I am definitely building one of these. I really like the pattern block spacer idea. Those blocks give your jig design huge flexibility.
Quick and easy, it's like the fast food of woodworking jigs 😆 (Wait, I feel like I just insulted my own creation... 😆)
2 роки тому+3
Hello Mario, This Jig is awesome. Super for solid and beautiful joints. Practical and useful. Unless you try innovations, you cannot learn anything new. And you are always trying to teach innovations. And you always produce innovative works and ideas. Thank you for sharing. See you. Big greetings.
Thank you Mehmet, kind words. Hope you've been well? I don't think your videos are showing in my feed lately 😮 I'll go and ring the bell so I know about them! Cheers, Mario
This jig is amazing and is so versatile. Since you're using the same guides for the whole operation, it eliminates error if one is careful to follow the guides closely. I like the way a person can see what the joints are going to look like before committing to sawing them. Thanks for sharing this video.
Thanks Cyril, great point. As much as I try, I find it really hard to picture designs or geometric patterns in my mind, so being able to just 'see' what the joint will look like is amazing for me. You don't ever want to watch me try to cut quad moulding to go around a fireplace, or cornices in the ceiling though! Drives me crazy as I miscut the angle on every second piece!
Dang, that's good. Very easy to visualize to yourself what the joint will look like and how the fingers on both ends will look like instead of hoping you won't get a super-slim finger at the top/bottom.
certainly makes layout easier, you just figure your template out, and rip the wood to suit. I also like it for boxmaking when you plan to cut the lid off of the box after it is glued up. You can make one particular finger 3mm wider for example, then when you cut the lid off, that extra 3mm is eaten up by the blade kerf, and you are left with fingers on the lid and box which are the same thickness as the rest of the joints, instead of having one finger be 3mm skinnier (if that all makes sense? maybe i'll make a video on that one)
Cheers guys, very much appreciated! Simplicity was the main goal I had for this jig, even now it surprises me how quick and accurate it is when I use it. 👍
I will never tire of seeing the various different ways people can come up with for controlling the cuts on a box joint jig! Such a simple joint has such a wealth of solutions (I even have an idea myself that I am still yet to build). I like this flip up/down template, very nice. The obvious thing that stood out to me as room for improvement is to have the pin flippable/retractable/sprung in some way so you don't have to do the awkward lift-and-move each time you're moving to the next cut. Ideally you'd just be sliding the carriage side-to-side during operation, not constantly lifting and placing it.
I think adding a movable pin will be a mistake in the long run. If the pin is sliding through a wood hole, that will loosen up over time. Even a metal slevee must have a loose fit to allow the pin to slide up and down. This will cause the cut out to be slightly larger, resulting in a looser fitting box joint. Also, I'm having trouble visualizing. How a spring-loaded pin is easier to manipulate than the entire jig. I see my fat fingers getting pinched by the compression spring when I try to release the pin. Even with a spring-loaded pen, I will need one hand to hold the pin retracted and another hand to move the jig. You probably have something more clever in mind. I like the simplicity of the current design.
Thanks very much for sharing this great design. I would still use a dado for bigger jobs, but the flexibility of this jig opens up great possibilities for interesting joints on smaller work. For the template stack, I'd try plexiglass tiles and make sure to rip my workpiece to a whole-number multiple of the tile thickness. That way, youre always working with full pins and notches.
I got the plans, made the jig and Bob's Your Uncle...perfect box joints for a very ornate box. This jig is probably the most easily adaptable one for all sizes and widths for your box joints. Highly recommend it.
Im making this jig right now, super fun process! having trouble to simply insert a key that is square to the fence.. because I didn't drill the hole when i had the chance with a drill press... will give it another try tomorrow. Thank you so much for the inspiration! I think this jig worth making into a product, e.g. a kit like the one from Jonathan Katz-Moses, or a complete product. if there's one from woodpecker for 199, it gonna sell.
Hah, great to hear that it stands the test of time! I actually gave away the very first version of this jig, but I used it for years and years, it held up beautifully for me too! 👍👍
I have to say I love this especially because I don’t want to use a dado stack unless batching out 20 or more but it’s the ability to do irregular joints! Pask Makes built gorgeous boxes a year or so ago and he used a jig he built plans from Heisz and anyways I’m not sure how to build that jig but this is simpler and excellent because it’s so customizable. I have to make one because I love irregular box joints much more than the standard traditional ones. It’s more elegant and complex
I actually designed this one way back when, because John Heisz and Mattias Wandel's box joint jigs (which look to work absolutely fantastically), just seemed way too hard and overly complicated for me to build and use. I'm with you, box joints are attractive, and playing with the sizes makes them moreso!
You had me worried there - I only finished build the jig two weeks ago and I thought I was going to have to build another one. Bizarrely I had been thinking about different sized fingers at the weekend and now you have provided the answer. Great jig BTW (once you have sorted out the right key size)
I guess great minds think alike Graham 😄 Hope it works well for you. If you're thinking of _angled_ box joints next week, I'll probably be getting ready to start filming how to make them next. 😉
I love the flexibility of this jig to be able to make and mix different width fingers. I might have missed it in the description but the size of your steel pin needs to match the width of your saw kerf.
Hi Bill, spot on, the pin matches the blades kerf to make the joints work. I don't mention that here, but I do in the original video and in the plans for the jig. 👍
So you're telling me that the $269 I spent on the Incra i-Box jig was a waste of money???? Thanks mate. And, now I have to go and build one of these!!! 🤨
Wow I like it! Flip fingers! Every weekend warrior has a table saw. The only disadvantage I see is you can’t stack all four on the jig. I have a Veritas router table with a sled that includes an adjustable finger for finger joints. Paired with spacers you can bundle 4 sides staggered correctly and cut four ends at once. It looks like you could stack two ends at a time on your jig. Probably best with a blade that cuts flat bottoms. Table saw still can’t cut stopped grooves for captive panels.
ooh, yes and no to 4 sides at once! If you're cutting standard joints, ie, they are all the same, then yes, you offset two of the boards and can cut all four at once. In this video I'm pointing out the uses specifically for variable sized fingers. When cutting variable ones, you almost always have to cut two sides at a time only to ensure everything lines up. Check out the original video to see how I cut 4 sides at once. 👍 ua-cam.com/video/r_SL7g8v0us/v-deo.html
I gotta say, while you don’t have a blooper reel, I think you really nailed that video with your electric vice rendition of that song 🤣🤣🤣. Oh and that jig is super, might get the plans and some form ply.
Many thanks! Feel free to reach out via email if I can help. If your pin is very close to perfect, shaving one side of it with a file can help thin it down, or alternatively, a thin layer of sticky tape can thicken it up, depending on what you need to happen. 👍
I just made this jig today it’s awesome we’ll done to the woodfather for thinking this one up a bit of messing around with pin as joint a bit loose not by much not sure if it needs larger or smaller but great job mate
not bad but the Stumpy Nubs box joint jig is (in my opinion) the best and offers more flexibility and accuracy than any other I've seen. I bought the plans, built it for myself and it is awesome. Bit of a beast but highly recommended. I don't cut dovetails anymore, I just use box joints.
Many ways to skin a cat! Ease of use generally wins for me, so cutting bolts and including threaded rods is a bit more than I'm keen on, but, I've bought a few plans from Stumpy and he's never steered me wrong.👍
Brilliant mate! I just got a flat blade dado set but it only cuts 6.35 & 9.53mm sizes. With this I can do any size. 👍 Just ordered and received. Now off to the shop! 👍 One small suggestion. When I went to your website, I was at first hesitant to order. I mean giving your credit card to someone you never met, over the internet goes against everything they tell you about financial security. I was then pleasantly surprised to see PayPal. You might want to include payment methods on your page, to see, before clicking to BUY NOW. Might encourage more sales. Thank you
This version goes back years. It does seem like a good jig. The one important thing he didn't mention is the pin needs to be the same diameter as you blade is thick.
Cheers Dave, you're right, it does go back years. If you want to see the original version that all others are based on, it's also on my channel. 😉 I may not mention the pin thickness in this video, but it's in all my others. 👍
curious what/why the difference from the jig in the video posted 2 years ago. you now flip the board, and change the rotation of the template... instead of cutting through 2 boards at once. the style from 2 years ago seems simpler than this new one?
@@LakersCentral So in the other video I'm cutting a 'standard' finger joint template, ie, all the fingers are exactly the same width. With this video I'm specifically showing how you can use the jig to make different sized fingers in the same joint, and that necessitates cutting each mating joint separately. If you're making a box though, you can still cut the two same sides at a time, I'm only doing a demo here, so I've cut one at a time.
@@LakersCentral I'm not sure why you'd build a fancy jig and also go through those contortions, but the jig works much better and the spacing of the cuts fits better in the end if the pin is correct.
I started out with a radial arm saw back in the day, it was no big deal changing blades, no blade inserts to deal with, worked great. now I am using just a table saw, which is more of an ordeal. this is the simplest rig I have seen. the time and aggravation it will save makes it worth it's weight in gold, well almost
Yep the quality of the ply can affect things. I tend to prefer MDF for thicker spacers as it's always uniform, and then a 'higher' quality ply for thinner ones. I find that 6mm MDF for example can flex a little too much, but ply at that thickness is sturdier. Cheers!
I'd make the fingers 3/4 wide then make one side of them all round with a 3/8 router bit so they can pivot while staying in place. No other changes, it's really nice.
That certainly works well and I've seen a few people do it. 👍 If you want to come up with a random pattern with random thicknesses of fingers though, having them pivot on a bar or dowell makes it a little more time consuming to change them in and out. Makes it neater though, thats for sure, I have little stacks of different thickness fingers tumbling around the place...if only I could build a box to store them somehow... 😆
😊👍 It really helped me, especially when I started off. Suddenly I went from screwed butt joints, to making nice looking boxes with 'real' joinery on them. Nothing wrong with glue & screw, but it's always nice to grow/skill up a little!
I think it's great 👍 now can you please do the same for a band saw. Because my table saw scares me. But my band saw is cool. It makes great miter boxes. Regards. Cindy in the UK 🇬🇧
If I _had_ a bandsaw, I might give it a shot. I began building myself one many years ago, but just never found the time to finish it off. Guess I know what my next project should be hey? 😄
Absolutely. The first iteration of this jig had drawer runners, a spring, and needed a PHD to put it together. I kept stripping out parts until even an idiot, (me), could build it! 😆
Excellent, that's almost exactly the same reason that drove me to come up with this design. My saw can take a dado, but I just couldn't afford or justify one. All the best!
Love the design. I’ve built several other styles, but I already know yours is superior ! And your presentation style was very entertaining. New “fan” here…. At 64 I’m not always easily impressed. YOU impress me 😊
Well done sir!!! I’ve seen variations of this but your design appears to be a bit simpler and nearly foolproof. I only wish my saw had a flat tooth blade - can’t buy one for mine.
Many thanks! I tend to use angled blades myself, simply as they're what I have on hand. Once you cut out each finger, you can slide the fence back and forth over the blade, do that a couple times and it will quickly smooth out the grooves for you. It's very rare that I'll ever clean the joints out with a chisel at the end these days, even with an angled blade 👍
Fantastic jig!! And it seems so ease to setup and use. I'd buy itvright away. i have a problem though, my table saw has an slide table on the left side of the blade and so it only has one grove on the right side. Would your jig work well with only one runner?
Oh interesting. There's no reason why it wouldn't work that I can see, but you'd want to make sure that your runner was a very nice fit, I probably wouldn't use timber but would cut it from plastic (I think people use thick chopping boards or maybe a plastic named UHMW or similar?) so that it wouldn't change with humidity. I assume you have a fence? You could probably make the base of the jig a bit wider, and have the right hand side of it run along the fence while the runner is snug in the rail. That way there would be no chance of it racking or pivoting off of the one rail.
my god. that is the simplest solution ive ever seen! excuse me why i go buy plans and build it
😍 thanks in advance 😊 Let me know how you get on!
Exact same jig with a Router table + Fence setup + dovetail bit should allow for Really Fast Dovetails right?!
(I'm thinking templates don't need to be dovetail shaped if we're using a dovetail bit in the router)
@@vikassm have you tried it yet?
Oh my Gosh that’s Brilliant!
Thank you!
Also
I really appreciate a nice short video that clearly demonstrates how to use this box.
So many instructional videos have a 15 minute introduction, repeating the same thing over and over.
Absolutely love it! I recently watched someone setting up a very professional and incredibly complex jig. Did the same job as yours - cost around £200 (I kid you not!) and took about 30 mins just to set up. Actually, it didn't do the same job as yours because you couldn't mix and match different size fingers without a very long and way too complex a process.
Will download plans because you deserve the dollars for showing such a brilliant jig. Thank you!
This is stupid genius. It's one of those systems that is so simple to understand and make, but works so damned well.
@@Standbackforscience you got me half right at least 😄
Best box joint jig I've seen on UA-cam.
That's the type of comment I love to get! 😆 many thanks Kevin!
I've been making sawdust for over 40 years. Never made a box joint jig. This is so simple I will definitely make this one. Good job!!
I really like your design. One small suggestion about your wording though. At 2:50 you say "Keeping the same side against the fence". I was confused because a crosscut fence is usually perpendicular to the saw blade. After watching it several times I can now see you're referring to the registration fence which is parallel to the saw blade. Because your workpiece has a knot or some other mark on it. It was easy to see that the peace that is facing out initially becomes the piece facing the operator. I initially thought that you had rotated the piece on the other axis. This makes no sense to someone who understands the whole process, But for a first time listener like me it was a source of confusion. You might consider marking the 2 pieces A and B. Or explaining why you want to keep the same edge against the registration fence. Your explanation is great and it helped me understand mistakes I was making while following a different process. Thanks for your efforts.
Good point Andrew 👍Perhaps saying, "keeping the same EDGE against the fence" might have been clearer? Glad the video helped!
Great solution! Will build this jig in a few days time for sure. Thanks! One thing though, on the back side of the jig the plywood pieces may not snugly fit depending on the pieces used. I will put a bolt with a knob on it through one end of the backside of the jig (of course with a nut inserted in the side piece where it goes through) so I can tighten it and get rid of the remaining space if there is any.
after watching 276 'How to Box joint jig' vids? Came across you'rn. That's it: GOLD❤ I am going to make this one , love the flexibility. much respect
Brilliant in its simplicity. As my saw will not take a dado blade set, I have struggled with ways to make these joints. Thanks for this - I'm off to make one.
This is genius. I could figure it out from watching the video, but I was happy to pay for the plan- your development work and original concept need to be rewarded!
Superstar, thanks Steve, very much appreciated. 👍
That is awesome 🙏
The best designs are the simplest thanks for sharing I’ll definitely make one
Cheers Denis, much appreciated!
I’ve been planning to build a box joint jig. Your design looks so straightforward, easy to setup, modify and use that I am definitely building one of these. I really like the pattern block spacer idea. Those blocks give your jig design huge flexibility.
I’m actually mad at myself for not thinking of this already…..awesome video!!!
Dang took that long and was that simple.. what a brilliant idea....
Quick and easy, it's like the fast food of woodworking jigs 😆
(Wait, I feel like I just insulted my own creation... 😆)
Hello Mario,
This Jig is awesome. Super for solid and beautiful joints. Practical and useful. Unless you try innovations, you cannot learn anything new. And you are always trying to teach innovations. And you always produce innovative works and ideas. Thank you for sharing. See you. Big greetings.
Thank you Mehmet, kind words. Hope you've been well? I don't think your videos are showing in my feed lately 😮 I'll go and ring the bell so I know about them! Cheers, Mario
This jig is amazing and is so versatile. Since you're using the same guides for the whole operation, it eliminates error if one is careful to follow the guides closely. I like the way a person can see what the joints are going to look like before committing to sawing them. Thanks for sharing this video.
Thanks Cyril, great point. As much as I try, I find it really hard to picture designs or geometric patterns in my mind, so being able to just 'see' what the joint will look like is amazing for me. You don't ever want to watch me try to cut quad moulding to go around a fireplace, or cornices in the ceiling though! Drives me crazy as I miscut the angle on every second piece!
Finally a video actually explaining this setup. Thank you so much
Dang, that's good. Very easy to visualize to yourself what the joint will look like and how the fingers on both ends will look like instead of hoping you won't get a super-slim finger at the top/bottom.
certainly makes layout easier, you just figure your template out, and rip the wood to suit. I also like it for boxmaking when you plan to cut the lid off of the box after it is glued up. You can make one particular finger 3mm wider for example, then when you cut the lid off, that extra 3mm is eaten up by the blade kerf, and you are left with fingers on the lid and box which are the same thickness as the rest of the joints, instead of having one finger be 3mm skinnier (if that all makes sense? maybe i'll make a video on that one)
The Bee Gees at the end cracked me up. Love it!
ahahaha, cheers for watching all the way through, fun little easter egg that one! 😆 I wonder how many people unsubscribed after hating it though 😆😆
Sitting here with my jaw dropped at this design and it’s simplicity
Just subscribed based on the demo alone
Cheers guys, very much appreciated! Simplicity was the main goal I had for this jig, even now it surprises me how quick and accurate it is when I use it. 👍
I will never tire of seeing the various different ways people can come up with for controlling the cuts on a box joint jig! Such a simple joint has such a wealth of solutions (I even have an idea myself that I am still yet to build). I like this flip up/down template, very nice. The obvious thing that stood out to me as room for improvement is to have the pin flippable/retractable/sprung in some way so you don't have to do the awkward lift-and-move each time you're moving to the next cut. Ideally you'd just be sliding the carriage side-to-side during operation, not constantly lifting and placing it.
You know, I've never thought about improving that part of it, very interesting idea, will have a think on it. 👍
I think adding a movable pin will be a mistake in the long run. If the pin is sliding through a wood hole, that will loosen up over time. Even a metal slevee must have a loose fit to allow the pin to slide up and down. This will cause the cut out to be slightly larger, resulting in a looser fitting box joint. Also, I'm having trouble visualizing. How a spring-loaded pin is easier to manipulate than the entire jig. I see my fat fingers getting pinched by the compression spring when I try to release the pin. Even with a spring-loaded pen, I will need one hand to hold the pin retracted and another hand to move the jig. You probably have something more clever in mind. I like the simplicity of the current design.
Thanks very much for sharing this great design. I would still use a dado for bigger jobs, but the flexibility of this jig opens up great possibilities for interesting joints on smaller work. For the template stack, I'd try plexiglass tiles and make sure to rip my workpiece to a whole-number multiple of the tile thickness. That way, youre always working with full pins and notches.
Absolute genius! I've just made a box joint jig and thrown it away to make your design. Just wish I'd seen this two days earlier.
Oh no lol, I hope you didn't invest too much time and effort on the first one!? Best of luck with this one! 😆
Making this tomorrow. Oh...and fyi...the final few seconds of this video made me hit the subscribe button, lol.
I got the plans, made the jig and Bob's Your Uncle...perfect box joints for a very ornate box. This jig is probably the most easily adaptable one for all sizes and widths for your box joints. Highly recommend it.
So glad to hear it Christopher, and the photo you sent through looked amazing, came out beautiful, well done!
Im making this jig right now, super fun process! having trouble to simply insert a key that is square to the fence.. because I didn't drill the hole when i had the chance with a drill press... will give it another try tomorrow. Thank you so much for the inspiration! I think this jig worth making into a product, e.g. a kit like the one from Jonathan Katz-Moses, or a complete product. if there's one from woodpecker for 199, it gonna sell.
Bro idk how you don't have more subs! I came for the jig but you had me hooked with that intro bit!
Hah, thanks mate, I've always liked the start of this one too 😁 Cheers!
I would buy the plan and make this. The flexibility of doing different sizes in one jig is the catch. Thanks
It's super handy, and once you have it figured out, frankly, it's just fun! 👍
That is a great design. Think I'm going to build it to use on my brand-new table saw I got for Christmas. My favorite son bought it for me LOL.
Hah, anyone who bought me a new tablesaw would become my favourite son too! 😆
yes, jig works.. made it about 10 years ago, still working well! (I used little slices (blocks) the same size as the sawblade.)
Hah, great to hear that it stands the test of time! I actually gave away the very first version of this jig, but I used it for years and years, it held up beautifully for me too! 👍👍
@@woodfather Made a second upgraded version 6 years ago... (my most watched video) out of Valchromat.
@@NotJustSawdust ah yep, i watched that video a year or two back I think, i liked the clamping mechanism you added to it. 👍
I have to say I love this especially because I don’t want to use a dado stack unless batching out 20 or more but it’s the ability to do irregular joints! Pask Makes built gorgeous boxes a year or so ago and he used a jig he built plans from Heisz and anyways I’m not sure how to build that jig but this is simpler and excellent because it’s so customizable. I have to make one because I love irregular box joints much more than the standard traditional ones. It’s more elegant and complex
I actually designed this one way back when, because John Heisz and Mattias Wandel's box joint jigs (which look to work absolutely fantastically), just seemed way too hard and overly complicated for me to build and use. I'm with you, box joints are attractive, and playing with the sizes makes them moreso!
You had me worried there - I only finished build the jig two weeks ago and I thought I was going to have to build another one. Bizarrely I had been thinking about different sized fingers at the weekend and now you have provided the answer. Great jig BTW (once you have sorted out the right key size)
I guess great minds think alike Graham 😄 Hope it works well for you. If you're thinking of _angled_ box joints next week, I'll probably be getting ready to start filming how to make them next. 😉
Great concept. Spent a few days on it, works brilliant
That's great to hear, cheers Lindsay, happy it worked for you!
I build my box joint jig today, now I have an other to build.
I love the flexibility of this jig to be able to make and mix different width fingers. I might have missed it in the description but the size of your steel pin needs to match the width of your saw kerf.
Hi Bill, spot on, the pin matches the blades kerf to make the joints work. I don't mention that here, but I do in the original video and in the plans for the jig. 👍
Just a thought. you could possibly make wooden hinges with this jig.
Correct! I haven't tried, but I have had a couple people send me photos of their attempts. Might be a fun project actually, cheers!
So you're telling me that the $269 I spent on the Incra i-Box jig was a waste of money???? Thanks mate. And, now I have to go and build one of these!!! 🤨
hmm, I think you're telling me that I should be putting the price up actually 😄
Wow I like it! Flip fingers! Every weekend warrior has a table saw. The only disadvantage I see is you can’t stack all four on the jig. I have a Veritas router table with a sled that includes an adjustable finger for finger joints. Paired with spacers you can bundle 4 sides staggered correctly and cut four ends at once. It looks like you could stack two ends at a time on your jig. Probably best with a blade that cuts flat bottoms. Table saw still can’t cut stopped grooves for captive panels.
ooh, yes and no to 4 sides at once! If you're cutting standard joints, ie, they are all the same, then yes, you offset two of the boards and can cut all four at once. In this video I'm pointing out the uses specifically for variable sized fingers. When cutting variable ones, you almost always have to cut two sides at a time only to ensure everything lines up. Check out the original video to see how I cut 4 sides at once. 👍 ua-cam.com/video/r_SL7g8v0us/v-deo.html
This is amazing. Putting it on the to do list. Thank you!
I gotta say, while you don’t have a blooper reel, I think you really nailed that video with your electric vice rendition of that song 🤣🤣🤣. Oh and that jig is super, might get the plans and some form ply.
No bloopers here Paul, just little ol' me, the voice of our generation... 😆😄
Genius simply genius
Too kind, but thank you!
That is inspired. Brilliant! Thanks. I can see a lot of uses for it.
Cheers Jeff, much appreciated!
Already bought the plans. Having some issues getting the right sized pin. Like the look of the new jig
Many thanks! Feel free to reach out via email if I can help. If your pin is very close to perfect, shaving one side of it with a file can help thin it down, or alternatively, a thin layer of sticky tape can thicken it up, depending on what you need to happen. 👍
Brilliant jig. Thanks for sharing. You have earned yourself a subscriber.
Brilliant!! Simple and rudimentary, yet, it makes great joints. Bravo! I think that I will give it a go with the help of your plans. Cheers!
Great to hear, best of luck and yell out if any issues! 👍
I just made this jig today it’s awesome we’ll done to the woodfather for thinking this one up a bit of messing around with pin as joint a bit loose not by much not sure if it needs larger or smaller but great job mate
not bad but the Stumpy Nubs box joint jig is (in my opinion) the best and offers more flexibility and accuracy than any other I've seen. I bought the plans, built it for myself and it is awesome. Bit of a beast but highly recommended. I don't cut dovetails anymore, I just use box joints.
Many ways to skin a cat! Ease of use generally wins for me, so cutting bolts and including threaded rods is a bit more than I'm keen on, but, I've bought a few plans from Stumpy and he's never steered me wrong.👍
@@woodfatherfair enough.
Just bought the plans, I’m excited
You and me both! let me know how you get on, and if you have any trouble, email away! 👍
Brilliant mate!
I just got a flat blade dado set but it only cuts 6.35 & 9.53mm sizes. With this I can do any size. 👍
Just ordered and received.
Now off to the shop! 👍
One small suggestion.
When I went to your website, I was at first hesitant to order. I mean giving your credit card to someone you never met, over the internet goes against everything they tell you about financial security. I was then pleasantly surprised to see PayPal.
You might want to include payment methods on your page, to see, before clicking to BUY NOW.
Might encourage more sales.
Thank you
Absolute genius!
ahahaha, I've had enough bad ideas, I was due a good one 😉
Great jig. thanks for sharing. I am going to make one for my workshop
Great news! Best of luck Stu, hope it worked out well!
Nice work, I like the simplicity of it. thanks for sharing.
Glad to hear it, many thanks!
This version goes back years. It does seem like a good jig. The one important thing he didn't mention is the pin needs to be the same diameter as you blade is thick.
Cheers Dave, you're right, it does go back years. If you want to see the original version that all others are based on, it's also on my channel. 😉 I may not mention the pin thickness in this video, but it's in all my others. 👍
curious what/why the difference from the jig in the video posted 2 years ago. you now flip the board, and change the rotation of the template... instead of cutting through 2 boards at once. the style from 2 years ago seems simpler than this new one?
@@LakersCentral So in the other video I'm cutting a 'standard' finger joint template, ie, all the fingers are exactly the same width. With this video I'm specifically showing how you can use the jig to make different sized fingers in the same joint, and that necessitates cutting each mating joint separately. If you're making a box though, you can still cut the two same sides at a time, I'm only doing a demo here, so I've cut one at a time.
@@LakersCentral I'm not sure why you'd build a fancy jig and also go through those contortions, but the jig works much better and the spacing of the cuts fits better in the end if the pin is correct.
This is so brilliant.
Hah, cheers Duncan, hope it works for you!
seamless joints please, great video, greetings from Chile
Thanks Renato!
I started out with a radial arm saw back in the day, it was no big deal changing blades, no blade inserts to deal with, worked great. now I am using just a table saw, which is more of an ordeal. this is the simplest rig I have seen. the time and aggravation it will save makes it worth it's weight in gold, well almost
Hah, you can pay in gold if you like Seymour, but $15 aud is a bit more manageable 😉
Wow. The possibility's are endless with this jig. well done!!!
I tried using UK plywood spacers, and discovered that the thickness varied way too much.
Other than that, this is a great jig - and fun to make.
Yep the quality of the ply can affect things. I tend to prefer MDF for thicker spacers as it's always uniform, and then a 'higher' quality ply for thinner ones. I find that 6mm MDF for example can flex a little too much, but ply at that thickness is sturdier. Cheers!
Your pin has to be the exact same width as your sawblade? Sorry, if I missed that in the video.
Correct! There is more detail on that, in another video on my channel, search for 'Woodfathers Jig' and you should find it 👍
Smart and funny. Cheers from New Zealand.
It's just my youtube persona, 😉 my wife has made that very clear over the years 😄
Stunning. Thanks.
Many thanks!
Seems brilliant.
Well now, I won't argue with that... 😄 Cheers John!
I'd make the fingers 3/4 wide then make one side of them all round with a 3/8 router bit so they can pivot while staying in place. No other changes, it's really nice.
That certainly works well and I've seen a few people do it. 👍 If you want to come up with a random pattern with random thicknesses of fingers though, having them pivot on a bar or dowell makes it a little more time consuming to change them in and out. Makes it neater though, thats for sure, I have little stacks of different thickness fingers tumbling around the place...if only I could build a box to store them somehow... 😆
can't believe this, I really gonna build and try this, many thanks and brilliant video! Great job!
I hope it helps, lots of advantages and opportunities with this jig 👍
Very clever. Thanks.
Cheers, thank you!
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing!
Well. Just, well, wow! Well done and thanks for sharing.
Many thanks Michael, cheers for watching!
Game changer.
😊👍 It really helped me, especially when I started off. Suddenly I went from screwed butt joints, to making nice looking boxes with 'real' joinery on them.
Nothing wrong with glue & screw, but it's always nice to grow/skill up a little!
Well done, bud. A good jig!
Thanks mate, appreciate it!
I LIKE THE JIK BETTER THAN MY VERY OLD ONE THANK YOU
It's a really nice jig. Simple to boot well done
Thanks Bernie, much appreciated 😊👍
I think it's great 👍 now can you please do the same for a band saw. Because my table saw scares me. But my band saw is cool. It makes great miter boxes. Regards. Cindy in the UK 🇬🇧
If I _had_ a bandsaw, I might give it a shot. I began building myself one many years ago, but just never found the time to finish it off. Guess I know what my next project should be hey? 😄
@@woodfather i got mine from aldi 😆
Genius! Really surprised I haven't seen this before.
🙂 Thanks so much, hope it helps you!
nicely done.
Thank you! Cheers!
Very clever! I’ll definitely get the plans and build one.
Many thanks! Let me know how you get along! 👍
Genius jig❤
🤩 cheers legend 👍
Brilliant! Best box joint jig ive seen 😊👍🏼
Thats what I love about life. Its simplicity, We love to make thing complicated. a. thinking outside the box b, Kiss Keep it simple stupid. thanks RC
Absolutely. The first iteration of this jig had drawer runners, a spring, and needed a PHD to put it together. I kept stripping out parts until even an idiot, (me), could build it! 😆
Excellent bro! Thank you for sharing...
My pleasure, hope it helps!
Awesome! So simple!
Anything more complex than this, I get a nosebleed 😆
really like the jig
Cheers Rikk, I'll work on sharing another technique with it, as soon as I can too 👍
This is great. I bought a table saw and then found out it doesn't support dados.
Excellent, that's almost exactly the same reason that drove me to come up with this design. My saw can take a dado, but I just couldn't afford or justify one. All the best!
Lo mejor que he visto, saludos desde México
Thank you so much!
Love the design. I’ve built several other styles, but I already know yours is superior !
And your presentation style was very entertaining.
New “fan” here…. At 64 I’m not always easily impressed. YOU impress me 😊
Cheers Gary, great to have you onboard! 👍
Wow, must be the best one I have seen yet! Well done, congrats!
I'm biased I know, but yes, yes it is. 😉 lol, well, it certainly is the simplest to build for such a cool result at least
I love your jig . I need your pattern. 😊
Cheers, I hope you found it, the link is in the description 🙂
Well done sir!!! I’ve seen variations of this but your design appears to be a bit simpler and nearly foolproof. I only wish my saw had a flat tooth blade - can’t buy one for mine.
Many thanks! I tend to use angled blades myself, simply as they're what I have on hand. Once you cut out each finger, you can slide the fence back and forth over the blade, do that a couple times and it will quickly smooth out the grooves for you. It's very rare that I'll ever clean the joints out with a chisel at the end these days, even with an angled blade 👍
Brilliant! I wish I'd found it a lot sooner. I am now subscribed 🙂
I can't subscribe because I did that last time but a big thumbs up applied. I will definitely be making one of these jigs!
Fantastic jig!! And it seems so ease to setup and use. I'd buy itvright away. i have a problem though, my table saw has an slide table on the left side of the blade and so it only has one grove on the right side. Would your jig work well with only one runner?
Oh interesting. There's no reason why it wouldn't work that I can see, but you'd want to make sure that your runner was a very nice fit, I probably wouldn't use timber but would cut it from plastic (I think people use thick chopping boards or maybe a plastic named UHMW or similar?) so that it wouldn't change with humidity. I assume you have a fence? You could probably make the base of the jig a bit wider, and have the right hand side of it run along the fence while the runner is snug in the rail. That way there would be no chance of it racking or pivoting off of the one rail.
Great idea. Off to see you build it.
Enjoy and thank you!
Love it! Need it, it will be mine!!!
Hah, cheers David, it sure is helpful!
Amazing!
Thank you so much 😄
super good ide... gone try it out soon.
Awesome Jürgen, let me know how you go 👍
Great idea, will try it out.
Have at it! 👍
Great jig!
Bloody Brilliant!
Hah, nice and to the point, cheers Mike!
Just seeing your channel for the first time. Thats quite the jig you created there. Liked and subscribed.
Many thanks, that's much appreciated! 👍
Complicatedly simple I think it's brilliant 🙌
Ahahaha, I'll have to work on v3 to get rid of the complicated part!