Parts/equipment/etc. are in the description. For those who want to join the discussion on the Bronco forums... Bronco6G: www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/how-to-forscan-audio-speaker-mods.71145/ Bronco Nation: thebronconation.com/bronco-how-to-n.141/how-to-forscan-audio-mods-t.17869/
Thank you so much for the help on the Bronco Forum! I was able to make the changes and it made a HUGE difference in the sound quality. This is MUCH needed even if you add an amp and subwoofer with an amp.
Thanks so much for this video.... I just adjusted everything in prep of the final install tomorrow. Kicker KS speakers all around except the 6.5's as I've got feedback not much difference noticed. 8" kicker comp installed in dummy factory box. The Stinger Phoenix Gold 12" speaker on tailgate. 4 amps.... All Kicker Key. 2x 200 (4 channel) & 2x 500 mono for subs (one each). The two 500 mono amps mounted next to factory box with custom mount. And the other two amps will go under the driver and passenger seats. Leaving the glove box open for a crossover potentially later on.....
If you have an Intel based MacBook you can also install Windows in a virtual machine and have both Mac and Windows running at the same time. I have an older Macbook Pro that I use for FORScan or when Windows is needed. If interested I'd recommend VMWare Fusion or Parallels for Mac as the hypervisor but there may be others that work as well.
Thanks a bunch for posting these videos! I'm doing the same set-up, but a little behind due to unpredictable spring weather. Very informative...I wasn't sure if I would need to do a Forscan mod as well, but clearly I will have to! Keep up the great work!
I initially only changed the eq setting after upgrading to the rear 6.5 pods w/kickers and 4" kicker dash speakers. Wasn't happy at all with the rear pods, but after watching your vid I changed setting for rears to speaker/tweeter, Holy Cow Much improved sound afterward. Granted it's not hard hitting bass,but I'm happy to hear any type of sound other than midrange/tweeter sound coming out. Thank you so much for posting this.Very informative video. I do have to go in and do away with seatbelt chime, It did get Much Louder after doing upgrade. Or I could just wear seatbelt ...😂 Thanks Again!
This is great. Finally somebody explaining that changing 382B to 3800 to try and get more sound out of the rear speakers does absolutely nothing. The two EQs fighting against each other makes perfect sense. I plan on turning the factory EQ off and then running the kicker. To be fair, of all the horror stories I've hear about how bad the audio set up is, I honestly don't think it is AS bad as people make it out to be. Can it be better? Absolutely. I've had my Bronco for two days and was expecting the worst. I'm a huge audio nerd and the first thing I do with a new car is update the audio system. Honestly, it's passable for now. But I am still going to add the kicker, new speakers and a sub anyway.
Thanks for posting this! I bought two 6.5 kicker speakers and a lame-ass set of Mabett speaker pods. When I installed them I could only hear the highs in the back. I then changed the rear settings to speaker/tweeter in he 727-01-01 module and turned the EQ off in the 727-01-02 module. They sound awesome now!
Thank you for making this video with the graphics and being so clear! I read through so many forum posts and just plain got confused along the process. Really appreciate it. Cheers!
Part numbers Needed to Upgrade audio for newer Non-B&O Audio are.. PAC LPHFD31 and LPHEXT17 Harness. As well as a DSP that accepts High Level Input. I.e. Dayton Audio 408, Hertz s8, GZDSP 4x8II, GZDSP 6x8II, Arc Audio PSM Pro... For B&O Audio. Required Harness is PAC AP4-FD31 plus recommended one of the above DSPs.
Well , I thank you for the tutorial , it helped me to send full range to all my speakers , I have an OBX LUX package , with B and O , and yes , there is a center speaker. There is also DSP which became a nightmare for the ten minutes it took to get home and learn how to turn DSP OFF. So I ran Alpine 4 inch Coaxial's , 5 of them , 3 up front , 2 in rear , On the three up front , I wanted to shut off the lower frequencies but still have some overlap. My left and right dash and bass blocked with a 400 Htz blocker , the center channel is blocked with a 300 Htz blocker , both the rear left and the rear right , I wanted some mids , so they have 200 Htz bass blockers on them. Back up front in the kick panels I have 2 6 inch Hertz Coaxials , they are 85 Htz bass blocked. I left the factory sub ON but I'm considering shutting it off now that I added a Rockford Fosgate 10 Inch sub box. Here is where the problem came in , I listened to a few songs at work it sounded great, then I start up the Bronco and I noticed a low rumble through the bass cabinet in the 1500 RPM ish range to the 2500 RPM ish range and it gets quieter as the RPM's go up. Once ya come to a stop light , and you speed back up on green , same low rumble , even with the Volume completely down. I was like WTF? So come to find out , it was the DSP (Digital Processing Unit), utilizing its software and its microphone , to change the cabin sounds and it was reading though the aftermarket amp and amplifying my exhaust notes when the turbos kick in on low RPM's , like interference , sorta. The kick panel left and right channels go to my sub box , its a duel voice coil speaker. Once I went into Forscan and disabled the DSP , it all was back to normal. Crazy stuff lol.
Nice!! Glad it helped a little bit I am working on a version of this video for those with the Lux package, but it's been slow going because... well... I don't have a Bronco with the Lux package, and it's hard to work out schedules with those I know who do. It is definitely a lot different because many of the speakers in the Lux package and fed from the DSP sitting in the back of the Bronco rather than the ACM, and of course the DSP does a bunch of its own processing-as you found out. Good work figuring that out, it's definitely convoluted.
I say this not as a hater of anyone on here, but I am genuinely fascinated at the number of Bronco owners and owners of all types of vehicles for that matter who obviously are not happy with the various sound systems as they come from the factory. I have a base Bronco 2dr and I'm convinced that I have a tin ear, because although I have had many different vehicles over my lifetime, I have never had an issue with any sound system. If the sound system turns on and off and I can understand what is being said or played, I am good. Having said all that, it was an interesting video.
It’s like anything else. Once you experience what a given subject can be at the high end you’re not satisfied with the low end anymore. Craft beer, bikes, fishing reels, watches, anything. Audio is one of these things. My suggestion to you is to never get into a vehicle that has a very good audio setup.
Think I’ll have to do this, I have a plugnplay t harness to a audio control lc7i to a JL Audio XDM 700/5. Sounds good but I know the rear signal is still limited.
Your video is great and very informative. I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator and a 2011 Ford Taurus SEL. My interest is mostly for diagnostics, such as misfires, etc.. The Navigator is now 20 years old. With that in mind, will ForScan take care of diagnostics for both vehicles? Thanks for the feedback.
I’m excited this is even a thing. Curious to know if there’s a way to disable the chim that rings 4x when you start the Bronco. Also, can you set Bronco to factory reset if you were to accidentally do something wrong?
Hey man, I’ve watched a bunch of your videos but hit a wall on my ‘23 Wildtrak’s sound system. Replaced all the speakers and just today installed a new amp for my JL stealth box, but it farts at low volumes. I live in Western CT and wonder if I can enli$t your help to run some cheat codes. Don’t want to buy a laptop just for this, but I’ll drive to and compen$ate you for the trouble.
To be perfectly honest I haven't tried. I suspect you could, but it wouldn't be easy at all unless you took out the cross bars. Which you can do, only 3 of the 7 crossbars actually need to be attached for the roof rack to be solid.
I've also been thinking about the Trailrax. Even though they claim to able to take mid roof panel off, I have yet to see a video. Like you said, it must be very difficult. Wonder if it's worth selling OEM rack if I'm still in same situation of not being able to take mid roof panel off?
Great video and exactly what I needed! Thank you! I do have one question. I've done these steps, replaced all 6 speakers, and have installed the key 200 amp with 300hz bass blockers. However, I'm getting the dreaded distortion clipping above 17/18 volume. Have you ran into this issue? Would the solution be to increase the bass blockers to 600hz? Also, I used the Skar audio bass blockers and not sure if they're inferior to Crutchfield's as it only connects to the positive side. Thanks again and in advance!
I haven't pushed my volume that high yet, but definitely will give it a shot and see if I can figure out what's going on. Is it only on the 4" speakers or are you getting it on the 6.5" speakers too? My hunch is you are clipping the input to the amplifier, but let me see if I can recreate the issue.
@Ragnar.Kon I'm mostly sure it's the dash speakers that are distorting, but I'll go check and see if I can hear any from the kicks or rears and I'll let you know.
If you upgrade the aft 4 " to Kicker DSs, would it be beneficial to turn the EQ off and/or select a speaker/tweeter? For ref - I did Kicker DS in all six (factory sizes) and replaced the sub with a Kicker 2-ohm and factory amp.
Great information and glad a non-computer person like me was able to figure out how to get my sub up and running. That being said, I put Kickers in the floors and in the sub. What would you recommend as the Forscan setting(s)? I'm running the Ford Fusion amp on the sub.
11:00 mark is the important one. If you just added a subwoofer, you just need to change it from the "Tweeter" setting to "Tweeter & Sub". If you replaced the rear pod speakers with larger speakers, there are additional settings you'll want to change. But otherwise the "Tweeter & Sub" setting is all you need to change.
@RagnarKon I'm eventually upgrading the speaker pods as soon as I can find compatible brackets for my Mabett pods. I added a Kicker to the "deleted" box and added the Fusion amp and have both adjusted thru Forscan. I installed Kickers to the front floorboards, however, they are underwhelming compared to the activation of the rear sub, so that's why I was wondering if there was a way to boost the front floor speakers since they are upgraded?
@@toddbrandes1138 Nah, nothing you can do. They are already set to maximum output from the factory. The dash and kick panel speakers are powered by the same channel. And you're basically at the limit of what the factory amplifier can do. So if you want more out of it, you'll need to install a new aftermarket amplifier.
Update: solved it! The issue was two-fold (and one of my own stupidity). First, I was testing the clipping and distortion with the Bronco turned off (symptom of having ran the key setup with the Bronco turned off). This was causing the amp to get less and less power, and I didn't catch it until I noticed the amp was now clipping at 13-15 volume. Secondly, the first mistake might have been a blessing as it was actually making it easier to test the clipping. While I was trying to fix the problem I tried all four hi-pass filter settings, and noticed that switching from "Off" to "60hz" made a huge difference in the amount of clipping, and for my 6 Focal speakers "80hz" was the sweet spot. After remembering I'm an idiot, I finally turned on the Bronco and tried the four different hi-pass settings and voila!! With the hi-pass at 80hz and the amp getting full power I can now crank the stereo higher than I would ever reasonably listen (like mid to high 20s), and there's zero clipping. Moral of the story is that the 4.5s and 6.5s are not great at bass frequencies, and all of them require some sort of roll off in the bass frequencies or else the amp will cause the speakers to distort. I recommend turning on 60hz hi-pass at minimum, likely 80hz for most speakers, and 120hz for low-end budget speakers. Thanks for all of the help again, and please keep us up to date with videos of your progress! Love your videos, and I can tell by your forum presence and the videos that you know your stuff.
Hello. Love your knowledge of FORScan and the audio modules. I have a B&O system and am trying to open up the sound in the back of the 22 bronco. It seems restricted because the front speakers are much louder Can you help
The B&O system is MUCH more limited in what you can change. I have a video coming on it eventually (just waiting for a weekend without rain). On the base audio system, the EQ setting only impacts the rear pods. So turning it off isn’t a big deal. On the B&O system, turning off the EQ impacts every speaker in the Bronco, not just the rear pods.
If you have the 2023MY Bronco, this video shows you everything you need to do. If you have a Lux package with the B&O audio it is MUCH more convoluted-still working on figuring that out, but since I don't have the Lux package personally it's been slow going. Have to work with people who do have the Lux package.
Might be a dumb question but if im installing the kicker key200 do I still need to make forscan changes to the rear pod speakers and eq? Since its going to the amp
quick question. after setting the Facotry EQ to flat. does that effect any of the high/low pass filters? Ill be upgrading my front components and wanted to make sure the front got a full range. Also are you able to make adjustments via the "headunit"
Disabling the factory EQ just makes sure the audio coming out of the head unit is flat. It won't impact any high or low pass filter that is "downstream" from the headunit. When you disable the factory EQ you still get basic Treble/Mid/Bass control, but you lose the ability to set the Occupancy Mode (the mode that lets you pick a driver focused EQ mode).
Question I have replaced all my bronco speakers and need help with what to set forscan on. My rear pods are now 6.5 components and my front stage is a 3way components setup. My fronts are not using the wires for upper front speakers. Only using setup in lower kick panels. So I changed eq to 00 on forscan. So what do I set the speakers on?
i have the same kicker key in my bronco with audsion speakers, i did the auto EQ on the kicker. A few months later i found out about getting the flat eq with forscan and it sounded like absolut trash so i reverted back to EQ on. Maybe i should try turning the factory eq off again and running the kicker key auto setup again with the EQ off. wonder how much of a difference it would make.
Definitely should try to run auto EQ again with the factory EQ turned off. In my case... the auto EQ tried to compensate for the factory EQ setting by applying more bass, but it made everything sound more "boomy" and muddled. Almost like you were listening to music underwater (not really, but best analogy I can think of). Once you feed the Kicker a flat EQ, it no longer has to fight against the factory EQ.
Thanks for this great video. I'm actually doing some upgrades on budget so i upgraded all 6 speakers on my 2021 Base Bronco 4dr. i also installed kicker powered subwoofer by tapping to the kick panel speakers. I want to get better sound from rear 4" speakers. do i need to change the rear to speaker or speaker/tweeter? do i need to do anything on the front kick panel? Thanks again
I need a little clarification, I replaced all my speakers with the same kicker as you with the exception of adding the mabet pods. I should change the EQ then set the tears to full size speakers, would that be changing them to 0? Hope that makes sense!
If they are single cone speakers (like the factory speakers) you should set them to the "Speaker" setting. If they are coaxial speakers-which they probably are-you should set them to "Speaker/Tweeter".
If you are using the factory subwoofer wiring on a 2023 and later, then yes. In my case, I have a 2022, which has zero factory wiring. So that setting does effectively nothing.
Speaker Configuration Settings - ACM 727-01-01 I had my system installed... Looking at line 01-01 mine reads as follows 382B 0211 02F1 0084. Not sue why the last three dights are 84 instead of 98? Any thoughts why 84?
Link below. Unfortunately the B&O package isn't as flexible as the base audio package, and there is very little you can actually do that doesn't negatively impact the overall sound quality. www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/how-to-forscan-audio-speaker-mods.71145/post-2034445
If you have the B&O system that's in the Lux package there is nothing in Forscan you can do due to the Digital Signal Processor that's included in the B&O system. If you have base audio system... it's the same thing as installing 6.5" pods. Disable the EQ and turn the speaker configuration to "Speaker" or "Speaker/Tweeter".
I have a question that my have been answered already. We have a 2023 with the dummy sub and amp. If I add a amp and sub will I have to use FORScan to activate the amp and sub? Or is it plug and play?
All of the wiring is there for an amp/sub, but the outputs from the audio system to the amplifier are turned off. You have to use Forscan to turn on that output.
@@RagnarKon If you turn on the output to the subwoofer, as mentioned above, but turn off the factory EQ and turn on the Kicker 200.4 EQ how will that affect the subwoofer? Is the sub now getting a flat signal? I installed the Fusion Amp/Kicker Subwoofer. Just wondering how the changes to the EQ from 01 to 00 will impact my subwoofer.
Yup. I got a video coming, but in the mean time: www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/forscan-bronco-working-spreadsheet-double-honk-sport-mode-chimes-seatbelts-and-more.28489/post-1904921
It is! The official Ford tool is $1500.... so $500 was a lot more economical. You don't need the Mongoose tool if you are just doing some setting tweaks in Forscan though. The expensive tools are only necessary if you are flashing modules with new firmware using FDRS.
Woooo! Honestly Monaco Ford is my preferred dealer. Not a huge fan of Tasca, but because they have dealers all over New England they often have parts more readily available.
Parts/equipment/etc. are in the description.
For those who want to join the discussion on the Bronco forums...
Bronco6G:
www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/how-to-forscan-audio-speaker-mods.71145/
Bronco Nation:
thebronconation.com/bronco-how-to-n.141/how-to-forscan-audio-mods-t.17869/
I would love a forescan tutorial!!!
Thank you so much for the help on the Bronco Forum! I was able to make the changes and it made a HUGE difference in the sound quality. This is MUCH needed even if you add an amp and subwoofer with an amp.
Thanks for what you do for the bronco community. Just added the mabett pods in the back today and used your EQ tips. It’s such a massive difference.
im a 2019 ranger owner but i dont know how i ended up watching
your videos. amazing
Thanks so much for this video.... I just adjusted everything in prep of the final install tomorrow. Kicker KS speakers all around except the 6.5's as I've got feedback not much difference noticed. 8" kicker comp installed in dummy factory box. The Stinger Phoenix Gold 12" speaker on tailgate. 4 amps.... All Kicker Key. 2x 200 (4 channel) & 2x 500 mono for subs (one each). The two 500 mono amps mounted next to factory box with custom mount. And the other two amps will go under the driver and passenger seats. Leaving the glove box open for a crossover potentially later on.....
If you have an Intel based MacBook you can also install Windows in a virtual machine and have both Mac and Windows running at the same time. I have an older Macbook Pro that I use for FORScan or when Windows is needed. If interested I'd recommend VMWare Fusion or Parallels for Mac as the hypervisor but there may be others that work as well.
Watching the captions read out foreskin over and over when you said forescan made my day.
Thanks a bunch for posting these videos! I'm doing the same set-up, but a little behind due to unpredictable spring weather. Very informative...I wasn't sure if I would need to do a Forscan mod as well, but clearly I will have to! Keep up the great work!
I initially only changed the eq setting after upgrading to the rear 6.5 pods w/kickers and 4" kicker dash speakers. Wasn't happy at all with the rear pods, but after watching your vid I changed setting for rears to speaker/tweeter, Holy Cow Much improved sound afterward. Granted it's not hard hitting bass,but I'm happy to hear any type of sound other than midrange/tweeter sound coming out.
Thank you so much for posting this.Very informative video.
I do have to go in and do away with seatbelt chime, It did get Much Louder after doing upgrade. Or I could just wear seatbelt ...😂
Thanks Again!
This is great. Finally somebody explaining that changing 382B to 3800 to try and get more sound out of the rear speakers does absolutely nothing. The two EQs fighting against each other makes perfect sense. I plan on turning the factory EQ off and then running the kicker. To be fair, of all the horror stories I've hear about how bad the audio set up is, I honestly don't think it is AS bad as people make it out to be. Can it be better? Absolutely. I've had my Bronco for two days and was expecting the worst. I'm a huge audio nerd and the first thing I do with a new car is update the audio system. Honestly, it's passable for now. But I am still going to add the kicker, new speakers and a sub anyway.
@Toasty same here. The stereo system sucks badly.
A framework laptop ..and a bronco .. you are the man
Thanks for posting this! I bought two 6.5 kicker speakers and a lame-ass set of Mabett speaker pods. When I installed them I could only hear the highs in the back. I then changed the rear settings to speaker/tweeter in he 727-01-01 module and turned the EQ off in the 727-01-02 module. They sound awesome now!
Thank you for making this video with the graphics and being so clear! I read through so many forum posts and just plain got confused along the process. Really appreciate it. Cheers!
Part numbers Needed to Upgrade audio for newer Non-B&O Audio are..
PAC LPHFD31 and LPHEXT17 Harness. As well as a DSP that accepts High Level Input. I.e. Dayton Audio 408, Hertz s8, GZDSP 4x8II, GZDSP 6x8II, Arc Audio PSM Pro...
For B&O Audio.
Required Harness is PAC AP4-FD31 plus recommended one of the above DSPs.
Well , I thank you for the tutorial , it helped me to send full range to all my speakers , I have an OBX LUX package , with B and O , and yes , there is a center speaker. There is also DSP which became a nightmare for the ten minutes it took to get home and learn how to turn DSP OFF. So I ran Alpine 4 inch Coaxial's , 5 of them , 3 up front , 2 in rear , On the three up front , I wanted to shut off the lower frequencies but still have some overlap. My left and right dash and bass blocked with a 400 Htz blocker , the center channel is blocked with a 300 Htz blocker , both the rear left and the rear right , I wanted some mids , so they have 200 Htz bass blockers on them. Back up front in the kick panels I have 2 6 inch Hertz Coaxials , they are 85 Htz bass blocked. I left the factory sub ON but I'm considering shutting it off now that I added a Rockford Fosgate 10 Inch sub box. Here is where the problem came in , I listened to a few songs at work it sounded great, then I start up the Bronco and I noticed a low rumble through the bass cabinet in the 1500 RPM ish range to the 2500 RPM ish range and it gets quieter as the RPM's go up. Once ya come to a stop light , and you speed back up on green , same low rumble , even with the Volume completely down. I was like WTF? So come to find out , it was the DSP (Digital Processing Unit), utilizing its software and its microphone , to change the cabin sounds and it was reading though the aftermarket amp and amplifying my exhaust notes when the turbos kick in on low RPM's , like interference , sorta. The kick panel left and right channels go to my sub box , its a duel voice coil speaker. Once I went into Forscan and disabled the DSP , it all was back to normal. Crazy stuff lol.
Nice!! Glad it helped a little bit
I am working on a version of this video for those with the Lux package, but it's been slow going because... well... I don't have a Bronco with the Lux package, and it's hard to work out schedules with those I know who do.
It is definitely a lot different because many of the speakers in the Lux package and fed from the DSP sitting in the back of the Bronco rather than the ACM, and of course the DSP does a bunch of its own processing-as you found out.
Good work figuring that out, it's definitely convoluted.
Thanks for the video, great content. I also just made adjustments via forscan to my 22 bronco thanks to your videos. Wow what a difference
This video was insanely helpful! Wish there was a way to do it with Mac. Will need to add a few steps for me.
And not a single word about that sweet modular laptop
Haha.
Framework laptops are awesome! Just ordered one of the new AMD-based laptops.
Forscan is a great tool. You can also use a Bluetooth adapter for the OBDII. I have one and it works awesome
@jamesletzring9807 can you make changes in Forscan App via your phone?
I say this not as a hater of anyone on here, but I am genuinely fascinated at the number of Bronco owners and owners of all types of vehicles for that matter who obviously are not happy with the various sound systems as they come from the factory. I have a base Bronco 2dr and I'm convinced that I have a tin ear, because although I have had many different vehicles over my lifetime, I have never had an issue with any sound system. If the sound system turns on and off and I can understand what is being said or played, I am good. Having said all that, it was an interesting video.
It’s like anything else. Once you experience what a given subject can be at the high end you’re not satisfied with the low end anymore. Craft beer, bikes, fishing reels, watches, anything. Audio is one of these things. My suggestion to you is to never get into a vehicle that has a very good audio setup.
You probably listen to country and talk radio.
Think I’ll have to do this, I have a plugnplay t harness to a audio control lc7i to a JL Audio XDM 700/5. Sounds good but I know the rear signal is still limited.
Your video is great and very informative. I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator and a 2011 Ford Taurus SEL. My interest is mostly for diagnostics, such as misfires, etc..
The Navigator is now 20 years old. With that in mind, will ForScan take care of diagnostics for both vehicles?
Thanks for the feedback.
I’m excited this is even a thing. Curious to know if there’s a way to disable the chim that rings 4x when you start the Bronco. Also, can you set Bronco to factory reset if you were to accidentally do something wrong?
Great content! Thanks for making these videos!
Great tutorial, question for you, are the ACM settings ( 727-01-01 & 727-01-02 ) on the Bronco similar to a 23 Maverick non B&O?
Hey man, I’ve watched a bunch of your videos but hit a wall on my ‘23 Wildtrak’s sound system. Replaced all the speakers and just today installed a new amp for my JL stealth box, but it farts at low volumes. I live in Western CT and wonder if I can enli$t your help to run some cheat codes. Don’t want to buy a laptop just for this, but I’ll drive to and compen$ate you for the trouble.
Thanks for videos!
Question on roof rack…. Can you get the second row panel off? I’m thinking about that one…. And selling my factory one.
To be perfectly honest I haven't tried.
I suspect you could, but it wouldn't be easy at all unless you took out the cross bars. Which you can do, only 3 of the 7 crossbars actually need to be attached for the roof rack to be solid.
I've also been thinking about the Trailrax. Even though they claim to able to take mid roof panel off, I have yet to see a video. Like you said, it must be very difficult. Wonder if it's worth selling OEM rack if I'm still in same situation of not being able to take mid roof panel off?
Great video and exactly what I needed! Thank you!
I do have one question. I've done these steps, replaced all 6 speakers, and have installed the key 200 amp with 300hz bass blockers. However, I'm getting the dreaded distortion clipping above 17/18 volume.
Have you ran into this issue? Would the solution be to increase the bass blockers to 600hz? Also, I used the Skar audio bass blockers and not sure if they're inferior to Crutchfield's as it only connects to the positive side.
Thanks again and in advance!
I haven't pushed my volume that high yet, but definitely will give it a shot and see if I can figure out what's going on. Is it only on the 4" speakers or are you getting it on the 6.5" speakers too?
My hunch is you are clipping the input to the amplifier, but let me see if I can recreate the issue.
@Ragnar.Kon I'm mostly sure it's the dash speakers that are distorting, but I'll go check and see if I can hear any from the kicks or rears and I'll let you know.
If you upgrade the aft 4 " to Kicker DSs, would it be beneficial to turn the EQ off and/or select a speaker/tweeter? For ref - I did Kicker DS in all six (factory sizes) and replaced the sub with a Kicker 2-ohm and factory amp.
Great information and glad a non-computer person like me was able to figure out how to get my sub up and running. That being said, I put Kickers in the floors and in the sub. What would you recommend as the Forscan setting(s)? I'm running the Ford Fusion amp on the sub.
11:00 mark is the important one. If you just added a subwoofer, you just need to change it from the "Tweeter" setting to "Tweeter & Sub".
If you replaced the rear pod speakers with larger speakers, there are additional settings you'll want to change. But otherwise the "Tweeter & Sub" setting is all you need to change.
@RagnarKon I'm eventually upgrading the speaker pods as soon as I can find compatible brackets for my Mabett pods. I added a Kicker to the "deleted" box and added the Fusion amp and have both adjusted thru Forscan. I installed Kickers to the front floorboards, however, they are underwhelming compared to the activation of the rear sub, so that's why I was wondering if there was a way to boost the front floor speakers since they are upgraded?
@@toddbrandes1138 Nah, nothing you can do. They are already set to maximum output from the factory.
The dash and kick panel speakers are powered by the same channel. And you're basically at the limit of what the factory amplifier can do. So if you want more out of it, you'll need to install a new aftermarket amplifier.
Update: solved it!
The issue was two-fold (and one of my own stupidity). First, I was testing the clipping and distortion with the Bronco turned off (symptom of having ran the key setup with the Bronco turned off). This was causing the amp to get less and less power, and I didn't catch it until I noticed the amp was now clipping at 13-15 volume.
Secondly, the first mistake might have been a blessing as it was actually making it easier to test the clipping. While I was trying to fix the problem I tried all four hi-pass filter settings, and noticed that switching from "Off" to "60hz" made a huge difference in the amount of clipping, and for my 6 Focal speakers "80hz" was the sweet spot.
After remembering I'm an idiot, I finally turned on the Bronco and tried the four different hi-pass settings and voila!! With the hi-pass at 80hz and the amp getting full power I can now crank the stereo higher than I would ever reasonably listen (like mid to high 20s), and there's zero clipping.
Moral of the story is that the 4.5s and 6.5s are not great at bass frequencies, and all of them require some sort of roll off in the bass frequencies or else the amp will cause the speakers to distort. I recommend turning on 60hz hi-pass at minimum, likely 80hz for most speakers, and 120hz for low-end budget speakers.
Thanks for all of the help again, and please keep us up to date with videos of your progress! Love your videos, and I can tell by your forum presence and the videos that you know your stuff.
NICE! Glad you got it figured out.
Parameter settings ?
Hello. Love your knowledge of FORScan and the audio modules. I have a B&O system and am trying to open up the sound in the back of the 22 bronco. It seems restricted because the front speakers are much louder Can you help
The B&O system is MUCH more limited in what you can change. I have a video coming on it eventually (just waiting for a weekend without rain).
On the base audio system, the EQ setting only impacts the rear pods. So turning it off isn’t a big deal. On the B&O system, turning off the EQ impacts every speaker in the Bronco, not just the rear pods.
Hey there any thoughts on how to set up my bronco with factory sub? I am swapping out the sub for an 8 inch jbl sub. Replaced all 4 inch speakers.
If you have the 2023MY Bronco, this video shows you everything you need to do.
If you have a Lux package with the B&O audio it is MUCH more convoluted-still working on figuring that out, but since I don't have the Lux package personally it's been slow going. Have to work with people who do have the Lux package.
Might be a dumb question but if im installing the kicker key200 do I still need to make forscan changes to the rear pod speakers and eq? Since its going to the amp
quick question. after setting the Facotry EQ to flat. does that effect any of the high/low pass filters? Ill be upgrading my front components and wanted to make sure the front got a full range. Also are you able to make adjustments via the "headunit"
Disabling the factory EQ just makes sure the audio coming out of the head unit is flat. It won't impact any high or low pass filter that is "downstream" from the headunit.
When you disable the factory EQ you still get basic Treble/Mid/Bass control, but you lose the ability to set the Occupancy Mode (the mode that lets you pick a driver focused EQ mode).
Question I have replaced all my bronco speakers and need help with what to set forscan on. My rear pods are now 6.5 components and my front stage is a 3way components setup. My fronts are not using the wires for upper front speakers. Only using setup in lower kick panels. So I changed eq to 00 on forscan. So what do I set the speakers on?
When I click the programming button there are only 5 options. Is there a step I'm missing or a way I can add options.
i have the same kicker key in my bronco with audsion speakers, i did the auto EQ on the kicker. A few months later i found out about getting the flat eq with forscan and it sounded like absolut trash so i reverted back to EQ on. Maybe i should try turning the factory eq off again and running the kicker key auto setup again with the EQ off. wonder how much of a difference it would make.
Definitely should try to run auto EQ again with the factory EQ turned off.
In my case... the auto EQ tried to compensate for the factory EQ setting by applying more bass, but it made everything sound more "boomy" and muddled. Almost like you were listening to music underwater (not really, but best analogy I can think of).
Once you feed the Kicker a flat EQ, it no longer has to fight against the factory EQ.
@RagnarKon Any idea which one controls the fader? I can't find it on any of the spreadsheets. Thanks
Thanks for this great video. I'm actually doing some upgrades on budget so i upgraded all 6 speakers on my 2021 Base Bronco 4dr. i also installed kicker powered subwoofer by tapping to the kick panel speakers. I want to get better sound from rear 4" speakers. do i need to change the rear to speaker or speaker/tweeter? do i need to do anything on the front kick panel? Thanks again
Get the appropriate Harness, don't "Tap" into anything
LPHFD31 and LPHEXT17 harness into DSP for Non B&O
PAC AP4-FD31 Harness for B&O Upgrades.
those parameters apply for the rear speaaker on a ranger?
Are these settings for front speakers same on 2016 mustang?
I'm trying to get the door 6.5 to be full range.
I need a little clarification, I replaced all my speakers with the same kicker as you with the exception of adding the mabet pods. I should change the EQ then set the tears to full size speakers, would that be changing them to 0? Hope that makes sense!
If they are single cone speakers (like the factory speakers) you should set them to the "Speaker" setting.
If they are coaxial speakers-which they probably are-you should set them to "Speaker/Tweeter".
At 11:03 in order for the sub. to work, do you also need to change the 0098 to 009A? Thanks.
If you are using the factory subwoofer wiring on a 2023 and later, then yes.
In my case, I have a 2022, which has zero factory wiring. So that setting does effectively nothing.
Speaker Configuration Settings - ACM 727-01-01
I had my system installed... Looking at line 01-01 mine reads as follows
382B 0211 02F1 0084.
Not sue why the last three dights are 84 instead of 98?
Any thoughts why 84?
Sorry Typo 382B 00F1 OO84
I’m having trouble finding parameter codes for a 2021 Bronco with LUX package & B&O. Do you have a source for this?
Link below. Unfortunately the B&O package isn't as flexible as the base audio package, and there is very little you can actually do that doesn't negatively impact the overall sound quality.
www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/how-to-forscan-audio-speaker-mods.71145/post-2034445
@@RagnarKon are awesome, thank you so much for taking the time to reply. If you find out any new information in your travels I am all ears.
what If I put a sound bar? I have the OB system, but got the RC sound bar to replace the rear speakers
If you have the B&O system that's in the Lux package there is nothing in Forscan you can do due to the Digital Signal Processor that's included in the B&O system.
If you have base audio system... it's the same thing as installing 6.5" pods. Disable the EQ and turn the speaker configuration to "Speaker" or "Speaker/Tweeter".
Got too bored to finish this, but you also have to turn off the ported in engine sound.
The engine sound doesn't exist on 2021-2023 Broncos with the base system. That was something Ford added in 2024.
I have a question that my have been answered already. We have a 2023 with the dummy sub and amp. If I add a amp and sub will I have to use FORScan to activate the amp and sub? Or is it plug and play?
All of the wiring is there for an amp/sub, but the outputs from the audio system to the amplifier are turned off. You have to use Forscan to turn on that output.
@@RagnarKon If you turn on the output to the subwoofer, as mentioned above, but turn off the factory EQ and turn on the Kicker 200.4 EQ how will that affect the subwoofer? Is the sub now getting a flat signal? I installed the Fusion Amp/Kicker Subwoofer. Just wondering how the changes to the EQ from 01 to 00 will impact my subwoofer.
With the standard 7 speaker set up from the factory on a mid package BD, these codes work fine?
Yup!
Any knowledge with disabling ANC?
Yup. I got a video coming, but in the mean time:
www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/forscan-bronco-working-spreadsheet-double-honk-sport-mode-chimes-seatbelts-and-more.28489/post-1904921
Winnie the poo ... all day just recognized the voice
Is that mongoose ODB II really $500 + 😮😢!!!
It is! The official Ford tool is $1500.... so $500 was a lot more economical.
You don't need the Mongoose tool if you are just doing some setting tweaks in Forscan though. The expensive tools are only necessary if you are flashing modules with new firmware using FDRS.
A fellow CT Tasca Ford user...😂
Woooo!
Honestly Monaco Ford is my preferred dealer. Not a huge fan of Tasca, but because they have dealers all over New England they often have parts more readily available.
No friends
Did you say "foreskin"?
Haha forskin😂