@@McBethklok I heard on one of the GW podcasts that it's used for shading metals. Since you may want some black or brown to bring out the details in metal but you don't want it to lose its luster
How I apply a wash: 1. Slap it on, move it around 2. Notice pools, drain them 3. Notice pools that have been there for a minute, attempt to drain them too 4. Leave ugly coffee stains 5. Panic 6. Apply more wash to the coffee stain area 7. Have a pool 8. Cry 9. Let it dry 10. Base coat again
I stopped using GW's shade paints in favor of just thinning down the Contrast paint of my choice. But I don't know anyone who thinks washes are bad. I guess some people think they're "newb." Then you realize multiple gold daemon winning artist Trovarion uses them extensively still, going by his latest few videos. Like anything in art, the end result is all that matters. Did the paint used do the thing you wanted? Is the model pretty? Then kudos for using your tools.
I’d have to disagree about the GW washes. The heavy pigmentation becomes incredibly useful when going for a deep rich recess shade or making an open wound look sore and infected. But I suppose it depends on the individuals painting needs.
You: *pushes over the earthshade* Me: *reports video for Violent or repulsive content, hateful or abusive content, Harmful or dangerous acts, promotes terrorism, and captions issue*
My last bottle of nuln oil was spilt all over my table twice, then mopped up and put back in the bottle just like you demonstrated. Hardly any wash was lost and my table now has a dark, lustrous finish.
I absolutely love washes. From an all over agrax on death guard models, to red tone on zoanthropes brains for instant perfection, I cannot paint without them.
Say waht you say, but leadbelcher and nuln oil makes some greeaat unpainted metal. Heck, in heavy amount it makes nice dirty metal for orks and 2-3 coats of nuln oil gives nice weathered down blackish gun paintjob.
You don't have to push them over, they do that by themselves. I have to say in terms of washes I changed my approach. For some things like weathering, or ground variety, or metallics I still use them, but for skin and such I try to stay away, simply for the reason that I want to learn to shade like the pros with blending and glazing
This guy is a low-key genius! Amazing panel line trick! I already knew that paint likes to follow water like that, but I never thought about putting water in a recess. Great idea. Also I love the humor and practical tip of sponging up your GW washes to save them, I might have used a paper towel
Yeah...Would have been so useful a week ago when I was attempting something similar with some Blackstone Fortress explorer capes.May try and see if I can still do it
I wish i new it a long time ago the trick first a little bit of water than the shade, it would have saved me many many hours of painting, thank you very mutch for the water tip
You need to stop being so fantastic! I can't stop watching your videos, how am I supposed to get any painting done when I'm so captivated by your easy going charisma?
Idk how other people paint, but i do a spray can of black on everything, then white spray can just from the top, then water based paint slightly watered down for all my layers, and then usual a dark wash, like a black or a brown just evenly over everything. Its quick, looks great on most things, and while some characters with lots of different colors, such as humans wearing cloaks and stuff, im generally lazy and just do black. Sometimes i will do black, with a light layer of brown near their feet for like a trudging through the dirt effect, and sometimes i use red for melee weapons
Im actually afraid of using oils. Some of my dnd painting when i first started painting minis were with oils, and they always looked bad, but water based paint is my god sent
I got a pot of Matte that ended up with gloss inside and damn, it messed up a lot of Word Bearers. They gave me a solid gift card when I showed them though, so I can't be too mad.
NGL, that clip of you tipping the shade bottle made me feel very motivated to go find an STL of a shade bottle holder. Actually a very particular one that I've already been a bit interested in, but that's netiher here nor there.
For any newbies looking for tips, washes can legitimately take your model from a 3/10 to an 8/10. It provides depth that you desperately need, it's extremely easy to apply, and it's forgiving. I usually use it on top of a base coat, and then add another layer of paint in spots that need touching
@@LopsidedMoz No, they are not. There's additional additives that change qualities like surface tension. This is most apparent in the GW versus Army Painter comparison to be made in which Army Painter and older GW washes are notorious for pooling heavily in recesses, while the newer/current GW washes have better application control. You can make your own washes, yes. But if you think it's just a matter of adding more water to paint, then you have no idea what you're doing or talking about. You should be using actual thinning mediums, to start with, but there's more you can do beyond that.
Really interesting video, thanks. I´m coming from scale modeling and have been using oil washes for decades. I was pleasantly surprised to discover GW acrylic washes recently and always use them now when I want quick results. They are a godsend for pilot figures, where putting much effort in painting would be wasted since they sit mostly obscured in a cockpit. However, for really advanced miniatures i still prefer oils because they can be controlled more precisely due to their extended drying time. For best results I use Humbrol or Abt.502 thinners. I also have to agree that Vallejo acrylic washes are pretty useless.
What people forget is that an oil wash on a mini takes 3 hours to dry! They are normally used by scale modellers on 1/35 tanks, where they take 12 hours to dry! Also, Tamiya Panel liner is an enamel based product, if you don't put a gloss coat on before the liner, it will attack the acrylic paint! I am not trying to be elitist and say who's better-miniature figure painters or scale modellers. But those guys, when they make a 1/35 diorama it usually is 1 tank & 5 or 6 figures. Mini painters normally have entire squads or armies to paint! Also, model planes and tanks have large flat areas so acrylic washes would be no good for them, they have to use oil washes which they don't like because it's hours or even a week to dry! PLASMO did an oil paint sludge wash on a plane that took 1 week to dry!
Ok, I want to say thank you for that last tip about the water! I’ve been trying to find a way to make the runes on my Thousand Sons weapons really pop without getting the paint everywhere! I just tried that trick and thinned my paint down to almost the thinness of a wash, and it worked damn near perfect!
I actually really like the semi-opaque qualities of the Vallejo washes; apply, then using a little bit of airbrush thinner on a brush/q-tip (and some practice), you can manipulate it on the model much like an oil wash for creating grime and tints. It's also acrylic-based and a much less toxic method than oils, which is great if you have a small workspace without a lot of ventilation.
I feel like a lot of channels tend to state things like "stop using washes to become a better painter". While I do understand that sentiment, I also believe washes can be great for newcomers to the hobby/younger painters, as well as using them for rank and file minis. Don't wash shame each other, people!
Instead of panel liner I use acrylic inks (Daler and Rowney) as they come in a variety of colors and also work well to create shades of brighter colors when mixed in.
What i like with EoB is that you look for good solutions. So if GW have something good then you say it and not rage over GW like alot other UA-cams. With that you can have a clear head when listning to you. Keep up the good work.
Washes are the best as long as you go back with your base color and put the hilights back in. I always make sure to have a wash in every primary color plus black and brown on hand. That being said you can get away with just black and brown in 80% of cases
For those of you who still miss GW’s Devlan Mud wash, Army Painter Strong tone is closer than Agrax Earthshade. I had flashbacks when that pot was tipped over.
I paint my Orks almost entirely with washes, outside of the metallics and the odd highlight. Turns out remarkably well and is super low on working time for batch painting hordes
the panel line bit was like pure witrchcraft. thanks man. I never knew that technique before. where can I get one of those panel lining brushes, please?
yo idk why I just found this channel now but it's an incredibly easy sub, your content is super informative and super pleasant. Sponges and wetting down spots for pin-shading are awesome tips that hadn't occured to me at all!
Started the hobby about 5 months ago. Saw videos about how washes were instant talent. I spent a lot of time getting the marines painted. Covered in a wash. Let it dry. Then went “WTF did I just do....” I learned real fast to selective wash and use very tactically.
I had pains seeing that Agrax Earthshade paint spill. I use washes more sparingly these days I prefer glazing more but I also like to apply straight from the bottle when I use them. I currently don't have any oil washes at the moment.
Luckily, a friend at my FLGS printed a pot holder for me that is proportioned perfectly for Citadel washes. GW sells a similar product. Also, the panel line effect works great on Eldar target reticles on the clear plastic canopies.
Pre-wetting also works like a charm with oil washes (and similar products like Tamiya liners), but you have to do it with white spirit instead of water and it dries way faster.
Stick the GW pot down with poster putty. I prefer the pots for washes as well. I keep some water bottle caps handy for the Army Painter washes and keep them away from my wet palette.
Acrylic washes are fine, but oil wash will still work better for most uses. Especially because you can fix mistakes easily. If you are annoyed by preparation, get a glass bottle and prepare some beforehand just for that. I heard that regular plastic paint bottles are bad choice due to possibility to melt them using oil paint thinner, but I can't confirm nor deny it.
Acrylic shades do have their place, but there are good reasons why enamels and oils are also used in other kinds of painting hobbies. They behave differently and are thinned/affected by different things. Use everything you've got!
My heart dropped when you pushed over the agrax earthshade :(
Don"t worry, it was gloss so its barely useful
@@ProphetBrohammed lmao fair enough, never bought a bottle of it before
Isnt it astounding how much force he needed to push over that pot?
Yet everbody spills it like its water.
@@ProphetBrohammed why is agrax earthshade even a thing? Why does dirt color need gloss
@@McBethklok I heard on one of the GW podcasts that it's used for shading metals. Since you may want some black or brown to bring out the details in metal but you don't want it to lose its luster
How I apply a wash:
1. Slap it on, move it around
2. Notice pools, drain them
3. Notice pools that have been there for a minute, attempt to drain them too
4. Leave ugly coffee stains
5. Panic
6. Apply more wash to the coffee stain area
7. Have a pool
8. Cry
9. Let it dry
10. Base coat again
Too relatable. Sometimes you can add "strip paint from airbrushing when applying the wash and reactivating the thin layer"
11. Throw mini across the room
12. Glue mini back together while crying
I have never seen that water trick for panel lines, that is fantastic!
My man drops this knowledge all casual while my mind exploded
Agreed this was probably the best tip in the whole video, great stuff!
came here to say this, gave the 100th like in stead
Same here! Mind blown.
Just tried it on some Tau drones and a 1/10 of flow improver in the water made it perfect!
Say what you want, nuln oil is my necron painting godsend
how to make my space marines look a little grittier than the base color NULN OIL!
Use some regularly watered down black and paint it into where you need it
Actually have control
@@anotherinternetperson8495 also a good method
@@anotherinternetperson8495 i think you use to much if you dont have control over your wash.
@@anotherinternetperson8495 what's the difference??
I stopped using GW's shade paints in favor of just thinning down the Contrast paint of my choice. But I don't know anyone who thinks washes are bad. I guess some people think they're "newb." Then you realize multiple gold daemon winning artist Trovarion uses them extensively still, going by his latest few videos.
Like anything in art, the end result is all that matters. Did the paint used do the thing you wanted? Is the model pretty? Then kudos for using your tools.
me im a boxart copier painter only n couldnt give a r@t$ a$$ bout golden daemon realistic standards haha
I’d have to disagree about the GW washes. The heavy pigmentation becomes incredibly useful when going for a deep rich recess shade or making an open wound look sore and infected. But I suppose it depends on the individuals painting needs.
Probably best having a variety of brands in the toolbox. They all have uses and advantages.
Plus it is easier to thin a wash rather than to highen up it's pigmentation
I've been painting for 17 years and I never saw that panel washing prep trick that you did with water first before the paint. Brilliant!
That wetting a model prior to applying the pinwash is legendary.
I was coming down to comment that exact thing! Let's hope we both get the hang of this new tool in our belts!
Agreed. Wish I knew that years ago.
In reality is ABSURD. But this channel is known for some of the most retarded tips for the hobby ever.
@@themajinchaos7886 Every party has to have a party pooper. But no one invited you here to do so. So make your own channel or just go away.
@@themajinchaos7886 Whats the problem? It looked pretty much like applying an oil recess shade to me?
That's youtube money right there, only those living the high life could waste wash for a gag 🤣
You forgot the first step to cleaning a GW wash spill: taking a picture of it and posting it on ALL the socials
He made a whole video about it so he's good
1st I spilled the Agrax, then the Nuln. WHY GORK? Why Mork....
You: *pushes over the earthshade*
Me: *reports video for Violent or repulsive content, hateful or abusive content, Harmful or dangerous acts, promotes terrorism, and captions issue*
And I learn something new. Wetting my mini before adding panel lines! Great Tip!
You should always be sure before given stroke to anything that it is properly wet.
GW Wash pots fit perfectly in a 6x6 lego cube. No more spilling
ARE YOU A WIZARD!!
HOLY SHIT
Whaaaaaat!!! Legend right here folks... Cheers.
Wait…..hmmmmm
My last bottle of nuln oil was spilt all over my table twice, then mopped up and put back in the bottle just like you demonstrated. Hardly any wash was lost and my table now has a dark, lustrous finish.
Sticky tac to the bottom of the pot is best. Havent spilled wash in a year.
I absolutely love washes. From an all over agrax on death guard models, to red tone on zoanthropes brains for instant perfection, I cannot paint without them.
0:13 "I'm never gonna financially recover from this"
"...not leave it in sloppiness!"
*Screams in Blanchitsu*
Say waht you say, but leadbelcher and nuln oil makes some greeaat unpainted metal. Heck, in heavy amount it makes nice dirty metal for orks and 2-3 coats of nuln oil gives nice weathered down blackish gun paintjob.
the relief when you sponged up that wash. . .
You don't have to push them over, they do that by themselves. I have to say in terms of washes I changed my approach. For some things like weathering, or ground variety, or metallics I still use them, but for skin and such I try to stay away, simply for the reason that I want to learn to shade like the pros with blending and glazing
This guy is a low-key genius! Amazing panel line trick! I already knew that paint likes to follow water like that, but I never thought about putting water in a recess. Great idea. Also I love the humor and practical tip of sponging up your GW washes to save them, I might have used a paper towel
9:32 OMG, that tip was awesome!!
That panel lining water technique was a nice little bonus I wasn't expecting.
Yeah...Would have been so useful a week ago when I was attempting something similar with some Blackstone Fortress explorer capes.May try and see if I can still do it
It's fucking brilliant is whst it is.
I wish i new it a long time ago the trick first a little bit of water than the shade, it would have saved me many many hours of painting, thank you very mutch for the water tip
You need to stop being so fantastic! I can't stop watching your videos, how am I supposed to get any painting done when I'm so captivated by your easy going charisma?
Loved the water trick for the panel lining! 🙌🏻
Highlight of the video. Now I suddenly regret the panel liner I bought :D
Shit was magic.
Bro, that water panel lining trick, you've changed the game
Idk how other people paint, but i do a spray can of black on everything, then white spray can just from the top, then water based paint slightly watered down for all my layers, and then usual a dark wash, like a black or a brown just evenly over everything. Its quick, looks great on most things, and while some characters with lots of different colors, such as humans wearing cloaks and stuff, im generally lazy and just do black. Sometimes i will do black, with a light layer of brown near their feet for like a trudging through the dirt effect, and sometimes i use red for melee weapons
Im actually afraid of using oils. Some of my dnd painting when i first started painting minis were with oils, and they always looked bad, but water based paint is my god sent
I started using a black wash over my zenithal highlighted minis to really get that detail to pop. It’s a game changer for my prep phase.
I was using a newly opened reikland for my 50+ stormcast models and knocked it over. My heart stopped 😱 I used a hefty brush to scoop it back up
"GW washes dry quick and Matte, which is awesome" *Shows pot of Agrax Earthshade Gloss*
yep! that's why I wasn't afraid to knock it over, its GLOSS
@@EonsOfBattle Would have been no great loss.
I got a pot of Matte that ended up with gloss inside and damn, it messed up a lot of Word Bearers. They gave me a solid gift card when I showed them though, so I can't be too mad.
that line trick is amazing. sharing it with everyone I know.
"Its always better to play with it while its still wet" ... and I choked on my coffee laughing. Worth it, I just washed everything on my desk.
NGL, that clip of you tipping the shade bottle made me feel very motivated to go find an STL of a shade bottle holder.
Actually a very particular one that I've already been a bit interested in, but that's netiher here nor there.
For any newbies looking for tips, washes can legitimately take your model from a 3/10 to an 8/10. It provides depth that you desperately need, it's extremely easy to apply, and it's forgiving. I usually use it on top of a base coat, and then add another layer of paint in spots that need touching
PSA: washes are just watered down paint, you can make your own by adding extra water to paint
@@LopsidedMoz No, they are not. There's additional additives that change qualities like surface tension. This is most apparent in the GW versus Army Painter comparison to be made in which Army Painter and older GW washes are notorious for pooling heavily in recesses, while the newer/current GW washes have better application control.
You can make your own washes, yes. But if you think it's just a matter of adding more water to paint, then you have no idea what you're doing or talking about. You should be using actual thinning mediums, to start with, but there's more you can do beyond that.
Really interesting video, thanks. I´m coming from scale modeling and have been using oil washes for decades. I was pleasantly surprised to discover GW acrylic washes recently and always use them now when I want quick results. They are a godsend for pilot figures, where putting much effort in painting would be wasted since they sit mostly obscured in a cockpit. However, for really advanced miniatures i still prefer oils because they can be controlled more precisely due to their extended drying time. For best results I use Humbrol or Abt.502 thinners. I also have to agree that Vallejo acrylic washes are pretty useless.
What people forget is that an oil wash on a mini takes 3 hours to dry! They are normally used by scale modellers on 1/35 tanks, where they take 12 hours to dry! Also, Tamiya Panel liner is an enamel based product, if you don't put a gloss coat on before the liner, it will attack the acrylic paint! I am not trying to be elitist and say who's better-miniature figure painters or scale modellers. But those guys, when they make a 1/35 diorama it usually is 1 tank & 5 or 6 figures. Mini painters normally have entire squads or armies to paint! Also, model planes and tanks have large flat areas so acrylic washes would be no good for them, they have to use oil washes which they don't like because it's hours or even a week to dry! PLASMO did an oil paint sludge wash on a plane that took 1 week to dry!
really interesting! acrylic washes dry in about 30 seconds, maybe a minute if you really glob it on.
"Wash is Dead"... "I am a leaf on the wind; watch how I soar,"
Hi Euan! You still on BOLS' comments section? I miss your comments :P It warms my heart to see an Euan sighting ;)
@@theandf I still pop in to BoLs daily; however, I'm feeling less invested in 40k, and so tend to comment on the cosplay and other games stff. :)
My dude, that tip for panel lining is pure gold! Thanks for the share!
Panel lining with acrylic washes just using water is pure magic! Never seen it before. Thanks for the tip!
Ok, I want to say thank you for that last tip about the water! I’ve been trying to find a way to make the runes on my Thousand Sons weapons really pop without getting the paint everywhere! I just tried that trick and thinned my paint down to almost the thinness of a wash, and it worked damn near perfect!
This honestly helped me thinking about how washes are used. I knew of them but i never really got the concept of how to properly use them.
You surprised me, to find a few new tips on something I've been using for so long is quite impressive. Thank you for sharing and please stay safe.
I actually really like the semi-opaque qualities of the Vallejo washes; apply, then using a little bit of airbrush thinner on a brush/q-tip (and some practice), you can manipulate it on the model much like an oil wash for creating grime and tints. It's also acrylic-based and a much less toxic method than oils, which is great if you have a small workspace without a lot of ventilation.
I feel like a lot of channels tend to state things like "stop using washes to become a better painter". While I do understand that sentiment, I also believe washes can be great for newcomers to the hobby/younger painters, as well as using them for rank and file minis. Don't wash shame each other, people!
The water trick for pin washes. I needed this very badly. I do not want to think about how many times I redid cypher lords headdresses.
Instead of panel liner I use acrylic inks (Daler and Rowney) as they come in a variety of colors and also work well to create shades of brighter colors when mixed in.
That tip about wetting the area before using washes to panel line/pin pine is amazing - I'm definitely going to give that a try!
Oh, I'll be keeping a small sponge on hand after this. But the pin washing technique is going to get some solid use. Thanks!
What i like with EoB is that you look for good solutions. So if GW have something good then you say it and not rage over GW like alot other UA-cams. With that you can have a clear head when listning to you. Keep up the good work.
Play with it while it's still wet. Only advice needed.
Oh man, you really had me for a second there. I was in the middle of writing "YOU SHUT YOUR DIRTY MOUTH".
thanks for useful tip wetting surface before panel lining
OMG that intro tipping over the pot! My hands were reaching for phantom paper towels while I screamed and cursed. Wife didn't know what I was doing.
Washes are the best as long as you go back with your base color and put the hilights back in. I always make sure to have a wash in every primary color plus black and brown on hand. That being said you can get away with just black and brown in 80% of cases
Amazing tip on using water to do the thin lines with wash! Thank you.
I often use washes mixed with contrast medium. 2 thin layers, works great.
Love your sponge clean up 👍
I have one of those triangular 3 GW paint pot holders that I use just to keep my washes from spilling.
Good tip about the panel lining with the pre-moistening step.
For those of you who still miss GW’s Devlan Mud wash, Army Painter Strong tone is closer than Agrax Earthshade. I had flashbacks when that pot was tipped over.
Oh my god! That pre-wetting trick for psuedo-panel liner painting blew my mind! Thank you!
I paint my Orks almost entirely with washes, outside of the metallics and the odd highlight. Turns out remarkably well and is super low on working time for batch painting hordes
the panel line bit was like pure witrchcraft.
thanks man. I never knew that technique before. where can I get one of those panel lining brushes, please?
Rip earthshade you will forever be missed
yo idk why I just found this channel now but it's an incredibly easy sub, your content is super informative and super pleasant. Sponges and wetting down spots for pin-shading are awesome tips that hadn't occured to me at all!
The water-panel liner tip was really good. 👍 Thanks for the video.
Started the hobby about 5 months ago. Saw videos about how washes were instant talent. I spent a lot of time getting the marines painted. Covered in a wash. Let it dry. Then went “WTF did I just do....” I learned real fast to selective wash and use very tactically.
Spilling that agrax in the beginning physically pained me
Jesus christ only knows the number of times I toppled over GW washes and ink
The pre-wetting thing for panels is great. Thx
I had pains seeing that Agrax Earthshade paint spill. I use washes more sparingly these days I prefer glazing more but I also like to apply straight from the bottle when I use them.
I currently don't have any oil washes at the moment.
Deathguard Green + Agrax Earthshade is the spiciest combo
Luckily, a friend at my FLGS printed a pot holder for me that is proportioned perfectly for Citadel washes. GW sells a similar product. Also, the panel line effect works great on Eldar target reticles on the clear plastic canopies.
Nice idea to wet model before applying washes into recesses. Thanks Jay!
That water trick for panel lining is INCREDIBLE!!!!!
Pre-wetting also works like a charm with oil washes (and similar products like Tamiya liners), but you have to do it with white spirit instead of water and it dries way faster.
That recess washing using water is ingenious!
Tipping over that shade gave me the feels.
That water panel lining trick is epic!! Thank you!
Stick the GW pot down with poster putty. I prefer the pots for washes as well. I keep some water bottle caps handy for the Army Painter washes and keep them away from my wet palette.
I really like the tip about pin washing. I'll be sure to give it a try.
Well I prefer using homemade acrylic washes for big pieces of terrain, as oil washes take too long to dry
The word “wash” doesnt sound real anymore after this vid lol
Also that was my Tau commander at the end! :)
Washes are incredible for affecting tones and values. They are great when painted over with contrasts or hood by themselves
You have just blown my god damn mind with that panel lining tip.
I use a cheap paint pallet and have my nuln oil in a dropper bottle to put it in said pallet. So I don't tip the pot over.
I can never abandon my liquid talent.
Do not use your "good" brushes for washes. This is the fast road to having a new dry brushing brush.
I love Seraphim Sepia. It's so good. Over white it makes a good easy bone.
The panel line trick was awesome. Thanks for sharing.
Acrylic washes are fine, but oil wash will still work better for most uses. Especially because you can fix mistakes easily. If you are annoyed by preparation, get a glass bottle and prepare some beforehand just for that. I heard that regular plastic paint bottles are bad choice due to possibility to melt them using oil paint thinner, but I can't confirm nor deny it.
This may be the best wash tutorial around. Save this video folks!
Awesome walk through of techniques. I’m sure to try upping my wash game.
Acrylic shades do have their place, but there are good reasons why enamels and oils are also used in other kinds of painting hobbies. They behave differently and are thinned/affected by different things. Use everything you've got!
Full support for GW pots in this, and no other, circumstance.
Yeah, the thinner paints like washes are ok in pots.
The magic is a varnish between that looks good layer. and the next layer.
Always use a silicon mat! Saves the paint saves the desk!
I've lost half a bottle of Nuln Oil Gloss like that. Unfortunately for me, my workbench sucked it up in only a minute or two. Very sad. :(
Water trick for panel linig so great. THank you