Im brand new to the hobby and just bought my first set. I am pretty intimidated to assemble and paint but your videos have been a big encouragement to me. Thank you so much!
@@h.walker1332 Some successes... also some mistakes. Nothing too bad though. Overall very relaxing to work on for a few minutes when I need to take a break from work. A+ Hobby
@@Saio89glad to hear you're enjoying it, don't worry about the mistakes, you'll make less and less as you go, and if all else fails wash it with agrax earthshade 😂 that's what I do
GW really needs to implement an Sprue recycling/buyback program or something, since you can literally heat the sprues or chemically melt them and run them back through an injection mold machine.
@@mandolore19 that would be cool. I'd prefer it if the program wasn't specifically GW, though, since I buy a *ton* of non-GW minis. But yeah, that would keep a lot of plastic out of the landfills and out of the water supply.
I work on Necrons a lot and hey have delicate parts. When cutting models off sprues, I NEVER cut the joint between model parts and their attachment. Cut into the sprue at non-direct attachments first before cutting off direct attachment points. This will make sure there isn't any stressing cuts that can damage your part. Ideally you want to be cutting off free floating excess from your parts. This is especially true for tiny pipes, hairs, swords, etc. Don't ask me how I know this... Also, you can use milliput and a little iso to make on-demend gap filler with zero fumes and any thickness you want. I'll use full putty to start and then use the iso thinned version to fill tiny gaps or smooth. Another great video. Learned a couple new things. Thanks Eons!
Cutting the thicker plastic on the sprues usually causes much more stress to the delicate parts..try using better clippers/dykes to get in close. Also the plastic closest to the part sometimes wants to break away naturally and smoothly
I literally just use the frame cutter(not the detail cutter) from Army Painter. I have built 70 necrons(they came free in a box) and I always clip the attachment point.
I like how you stress the importance of mise en place, it really helps me keep my sanity in this hobby as well as when I cook. Thanks for the video, will definitely use some of the advices you gave for next time!
@@pinoarias8601 this. My cousin makes his hobby bench tool caddys out of old sprues. Brush holder, anti-tip paint holder, brush water cup brush holder and dont drink warning device
I always make sure to save at least one box worth of leftover sprues for kitbashing/paint testing. I find it's really important to have some good "blanks" of the type of plastic you're going to work with before trying a new technique, to ensure that it will actually work like you want. After a while, though, I do kinda have to reluctantly draw a line somewhere to avoid excessive clutter.
This is a really important part of the modelling process that most channels skip. Wish I had of watched it before I clipped my redemptor dreadnought off the sprue flush instead of leaving a slight amount to later scrap off.
The more I watch your channel, the more I like it and respect your honesty. Also you're NOT one of those channels that screams for your support and $$ and then says I'm stressed out and need a break (keep funding me though) much love to your channel
Saved for sharing! Nice tips! The only addition I'd give is to consider using a moldline remover tool, GW has one, Army Painter and Vallejo now do too cheaper, and scale model people have known them for years. It's much nicer to remove mold lines than the blade, inherently less dangerous, and has much less chance to accidentally damage the figure. As an aside, can you make a second part of this video but for metal minis? I've found that people only used to GW plastic tend to be borderline terrified at the prospect of metal minis, and we need more people like you who can clearly explain things to show them there's not much to fear, the process is similar and there's a lot of figures they could be going with apart from the usual :)
As a cook. A wound from a sharp knife heals better because it's a clean cut. A duller blade doesn't cut as clean and actually causes more of a tear kind of damage making the healing process a bit more difficult.
Two small tips to add for beginners: 1) PVA glue is great for gap filling if you already assembled and have no space to put putty and sand. 2) It's good practice to spray alcohol and clean the model with a tissue paper before priming, especially if you made any epoxy (greenstuff) work on it.
For beginners... Super glue over plastic glue pretty much always IMO. Because plastic glue is impossible to remove later, while super glue typically can be. Which can be incredibly helpful to know if you're one of the beginners who might get a bit of anxiety about building larger, more expensive models, and worry about messing things up. Plastic glue basically melts plastic together, so you have to cut models to separate parts. While super glue can be weakened using super glue remover (some nail polish removers with acetone in them can do it also) and let you separate parts and remove the glue without needing to cut them apart should you ever really need or want to. [edit] As per GWNDad's comment below, follow their suggestion about the freezer instead for plastic minis to weaken super glue. I'd forgotten that was probably the simplest, cleanest method for it.
Acetone melts plastic - so not the best choice for dealing with super glue on a plastic mini. The bond created by the superglue doesn't do well in extreme cold, so a stint in a freezer will also make separating parts easier
Also if you mess up the placement while setting the glue you end up melting the connections to hell and use looks stupid. Plastic glue sounds nice but it has the potential to ruin your model.
I actually use old extra thin cement with more sprue in it for filling gaps. When I get to 1/5th full, ill just chuck a bunch in the bottle and it makes a nicely spreadable grey goop.
Wow, that's about the best video on the subject! You cover so much, many, many tips on building, and preparing the minis for a faultless paint job. I won't mention the sprues in the rubbish bin, that's been covered very well already 😠 Seriously, the best video on the subject I've seen, well done.
I was snipping a gutripper waist/loin cloth section off the sprue last week and it went flying across the room. A week later and I still cant find the dam thing. I went mad looking high and low and its just poof gone! Ive since made a makeshift one using old bits, but still rather have the one it came with.
For filling seams you can use some binder clips and press the two halves together, this will squeeze out some dissolved plastic and eliminate the gap. All that's left is some filing which can be done with the knife or a file. Binder clips are wonderous, especially the largest and are a never ending source of help. No fumes either
Word of advice for anyone watching!!! It takes longer but cut each piece one at a time. For example, if you’re building Space Marines and you’re building the torso, cut one torso worth of pieces out, build them, and then rinse and repeat. It extends your build time by minutes, but it helps keep focus and ensures that there aren’t mistakes
Thanks! This video was essential for me in figuring out how to get started. Just recently got Star Wars Shatterpoint and have had no issues with this advice.
This is a great video to share with friends who are just getting into the hobby! It is informative and comprehensive. Will you make a similar comprehensive video about painting miniatures (including using a wet palette, type of brushes, airbrushing, sprays, color selection, color theory, using reference pictures, types of paint, metallics, nmm, washes, inks, highlights, pigments, varnishes, etc.)? There are a lot of videos on YT about these individual topics, but not enough of them talk about the whole painting process and all the tools available for painting your miniatures.
I wish I had watched this last night! I started building my own set of blood warriors, accidentally clipped off corners from 3 of the body parts, did not clean them very well before gluing, and didn't even think about poses. So now they are all just standing straight and looking forward, with lots of seams and holes 😂 Oh well, this is my practice set!
One of my model tricks is making rose bushes on bases. Take Verdia Veldt/Summer undergrowth bushes, put Valhallan Blizzard on them and then paint the white paste-like stuff with varying colors of red (I use Screamer Pink and Blood for the Blood god)
I find Krylon Fusion to be a good primer as well. It's designed for plastic and can be bought cheap at Walmart, Ace Hardware, etc. in a variety of colors and finishes.
Aww, my favourite part of the hobby atm is assembling the models; maybe in the future, might literally just assemble minis and then flog 'em unpainted on [generic internet auction site]. Just assemble 'em for therapy! Oh also (and I see lotsa people not do this on YT), give the model a quick dunk and brush in warm water before paint... I tend to do mine while still on sprue, but can be done when even fully assembled.
Super glue is better for starters because you can always break them apart and repaint/fix the bonds. If you use plastic cement it will be stronger, but it will be less forgiving when you gain some skill and want to redo the early models.
I started with tau and to be completely honest it wasn’t as hard as I made it out to be in my head. I thought my hands would spaz all over the place but all I needed was a relaxing environment and some music.
I'm taking some of these tips to my Gundam builds. Haven't stepped towards painting yet, but that appears inevitable at this time lol. Thanks for the content.
I'm pretty new to Warhammer and have been catching up on the lore and I was a fan of collecting mini figs, the table top game and other things but was scared of making and painting mini figs but this vid made me less scared
@@pinoarias8601 Obviously I don't know how long you've used those blades or how much use they had in that time but you would 100% see better results using a fresh blade, you choosing not to do so doesn't change that fact
Just pick one from Amazon - they are so cheap that the fact they may not hold an edge as long as a 'name brand' blade (when they probably come from the same factory) that cost is not really a factor.
How much sprue is needed to mix in to make the THICC version? How small do the chunks of sprue need to be? Asking before trying so I do it right the first time and avoid any headaches of doing it wrong. Thanks for the video as always it was helpful, even when I think I know everything there is still stuff to learn.
the smaller the pieces the faster they will dissolve, small enough to easily fit through the opening of the bottle. I would say about a pea-sized amount then let it dissolve then see if it's a nice thick on the applicator brush.
Love it! I have a similar method when it comes to putting together new models (or kitbashing from the sprue pile) really excited my death guard terrain was shown on your video! Question, (and I realize this is may be tricky to answer) how thin do you like that black primer to be when shooting through the air brush? As thin as any acryllic paints should be or thinner? Keep up the great work!
I don't mind seams going down the inside or even outside of pants sometimes. Pants have seams? So if paint catches on it, it just looks like an authentic inseam
Where did you get that drill, my larger drill bits won't fit in the chuck. Your drill looks like has a separate chucks permanently fixed to the drill bit which is awesome
It's a hand drill, it can only fit small drill bits (smaller than 1/4"). I bought mine on amazon, it is this: www.amazon.com/Professional-0-8-3-0mm-Precision-Jewelry-Assembling/dp/B07TRGW3W7/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hand+drill&qid=1614451230&sr=8-3
I usually paint the base separately if it is going to be a lot of painting work, like detailed scenery or marble effect, if it's just some simple sand to basecoat and drybrush I just glue the model first.
the thin Tamiya bonds only what touches and with some plastic kits the joints don't make a PERFECT bond. o the thick glue fixes this by squishing into a seam when you press the two halves together.
Yeah I know that part, but why are you not mixing it with normal Tamiya Cement instead of thin cement? That one is already more viscous and also cheaper than the extra thin cement.
I'm wondering if a necron royal warden can be converted to hold either of the spare weapons from the necron immortals sprue from the 40k imperium magazine collection
1mm is about right for barrels on marines and orcs, but a little big for guard las-rifles. Bonus is that standard uncoated paper clips are also 1mm, allowing for one drill bit to handle both jobs
I never really liked the building process of many models. The hive tyrant was a nice one as it wasn't unnecessarily complicated but my goodness the paragon warsuits. They have way too many bits and pieces.
Is it heresy to paint detail while the parts are still on the sprue? I do that personally and its SOOO much better than building then painting. Like il cut off the previously bonded parts so I can have an easier time building
I actually kind of like the building more than the painting. I enjoy the painting yes, but as someone who grew up on and still loves Legos, I think there's an inner part of me that just loves putting things together.
The fact that you thought about making this video, shows that you care.
Keep it up brother
Im brand new to the hobby and just bought my first set. I am pretty intimidated to assemble and paint but your videos have been a big encouragement to me. Thank you so much!
How has it gone so far?
@@h.walker1332 Some successes... also some mistakes. Nothing too bad though. Overall very relaxing to work on for a few minutes when I need to take a break from work. A+ Hobby
@@Saio89glad to hear you're enjoying it, don't worry about the mistakes, you'll make less and less as you go, and if all else fails wash it with agrax earthshade 😂 that's what I do
Tossing sprues in the garbage makes my gretchin have sad faces. Sprues make great additions for terrain-bashing.
Never toss a sprue, they are gold
If you are new to painting they're a good way to test spray paint or test a new spray since they are all the same.
@@cyclone8974good one.
GW really needs to implement an Sprue recycling/buyback program or something, since you can literally heat the sprues or chemically melt them and run them back through an injection mold machine.
@@mandolore19 that would be cool. I'd prefer it if the program wasn't specifically GW, though, since I buy a *ton* of non-GW minis. But yeah, that would keep a lot of plastic out of the landfills and out of the water supply.
I work on Necrons a lot and hey have delicate parts. When cutting models off sprues, I NEVER cut the joint between model parts and their attachment. Cut into the sprue at non-direct attachments first before cutting off direct attachment points. This will make sure there isn't any stressing cuts that can damage your part. Ideally you want to be cutting off free floating excess from your parts. This is especially true for tiny pipes, hairs, swords, etc. Don't ask me how I know this...
Also, you can use milliput and a little iso to make on-demend gap filler with zero fumes and any thickness you want. I'll use full putty to start and then use the iso thinned version to fill tiny gaps or smooth.
Another great video. Learned a couple new things. Thanks Eons!
Cutting the thicker plastic on the sprues usually causes much more stress to the delicate parts..try using better clippers/dykes to get in close. Also the plastic closest to the part sometimes wants to break away naturally and smoothly
I just got my first models built, Necrons. cut off the foot of a warrior on the first snip. Lesson learned
I just joined the hobby and got a starter kit for me and my friend. Glad i saw this before we started building
I literally just use the frame cutter(not the detail cutter) from Army Painter. I have built 70 necrons(they came free in a box) and I always clip the attachment point.
I really appreciate how you included every possible thing that could come up with assembling models, very helpful
I like how you stress the importance of mise en place, it really helps me keep my sanity in this hobby as well as when I cook. Thanks for the video, will definitely use some of the advices you gave for next time!
This is quite possibly the most aesthetically pleasing video have ever watched.
Jay: tosses sprues in trash bin.
Miniature Hobbyist: cries.
Disposing of sprues is so dumb, even of you don't melt them to make a burger, keeping them adds A LOT of detail to terrain builds
@@pinoarias8601 I must have thrown away about 2 kilos of sprues last week. I still don't see any point in keeping them.
@@herculeholmes504 Miniature hobbyist has an amazing series of videos on how to use your sprues in a ton of creative ways.
Thought exactly the same, "oof, I know who's not gonna like this" :P
@@pinoarias8601 this. My cousin makes his hobby bench tool caddys out of old sprues. Brush holder, anti-tip paint holder, brush water cup brush holder and dont drink warning device
I always make sure to save at least one box worth of leftover sprues for kitbashing/paint testing. I find it's really important to have some good "blanks" of the type of plastic you're going to work with before trying a new technique, to ensure that it will actually work like you want. After a while, though, I do kinda have to reluctantly draw a line somewhere to avoid excessive clutter.
these videos have helped me got warhammer 40k up and running, thanks for your help!
Yes! I can sleep well knowing I'm not the only one that smells my new boxes😂
Great video for any newcomers to this hobby!
This specificaty is what all beginners need.
That kitbash Ork Knight is absolutely amazing!!!
This is a really important part of the modelling process that most channels skip. Wish I had of watched it before I clipped my redemptor dreadnought off the sprue flush instead of leaving a slight amount to later scrap off.
I'm trying to put flayed ones together and this is my first crack at gluing miniatures together and it's proving to be very challenging.
The more I watch your channel, the more I like it and respect your honesty. Also you're NOT one of those channels that screams for your support and $$ and then says I'm stressed out and need a break (keep funding me though) much love to your channel
Saved for sharing! Nice tips! The only addition I'd give is to consider using a moldline remover tool, GW has one, Army Painter and Vallejo now do too cheaper, and scale model people have known them for years. It's much nicer to remove mold lines than the blade, inherently less dangerous, and has much less chance to accidentally damage the figure.
As an aside, can you make a second part of this video but for metal minis? I've found that people only used to GW plastic tend to be borderline terrified at the prospect of metal minis, and we need more people like you who can clearly explain things to show them there's not much to fear, the process is similar and there's a lot of figures they could be going with apart from the usual :)
The back of your hobby knife is perfectly good for the job. It's ABS not PS.
The paper clip approach and keeping the angle for the weapons is so smart.
@13:54 Spruces make great rubble if you run them through an old meat grinder, gives concrete bits and twisted steel beams.
As a cook. A wound from a sharp knife heals better because it's a clean cut. A duller blade doesn't cut as clean and actually causes more of a tear kind of damage making the healing process a bit more difficult.
Building is by far my favorite part of getting my army together
You both intrigue me and scare me.
@@Strikerkong I like conversions so that my army is unique the building process goes along with that
Ya got skills, Kid. Thanks for teaching.
Two small tips to add for beginners: 1) PVA glue is great for gap filling if you already assembled and have no space to put putty and sand.
2) It's good practice to spray alcohol and clean the model with a tissue paper before priming, especially if you made any epoxy (greenstuff) work on it.
For beginners... Super glue over plastic glue pretty much always IMO. Because plastic glue is impossible to remove later, while super glue typically can be. Which can be incredibly helpful to know if you're one of the beginners who might get a bit of anxiety about building larger, more expensive models, and worry about messing things up.
Plastic glue basically melts plastic together, so you have to cut models to separate parts. While super glue can be weakened using super glue remover (some nail polish removers with acetone in them can do it also) and let you separate parts and remove the glue without needing to cut them apart should you ever really need or want to. [edit] As per GWNDad's comment below, follow their suggestion about the freezer instead for plastic minis to weaken super glue. I'd forgotten that was probably the simplest, cleanest method for it.
Acetone melts plastic - so not the best choice for dealing with super glue on a plastic mini. The bond created by the superglue doesn't do well in extreme cold, so a stint in a freezer will also make separating parts easier
Also if you mess up the placement while setting the glue you end up melting the connections to hell and use looks stupid. Plastic glue sounds nice but it has the potential to ruin your model.
I actually use old extra thin cement with more sprue in it for filling gaps. When I get to 1/5th full, ill just chuck a bunch in the bottle and it makes a nicely spreadable grey goop.
I just got a hobby drill and spent an afternoon drilling gun barrels. Super fun.
I just use my xacto blade, it does the job fantastically and saves me from buying a drill.
Wow, that's about the best video on the subject! You cover so much, many, many tips on building, and preparing the minis for a faultless paint job.
I won't mention the sprues in the rubbish bin, that's been covered very well already 😠
Seriously, the best video on the subject I've seen, well done.
I find that painting the minis is really relaxing for me until I lose something.
Never fails. Actually bought 3 different Celestines because the glue would dry and mess the model up when id drop a piece while assembling
i find it super relaxing until i have to do small details then i really realize how shaky my hands are
I was snipping a gutripper waist/loin cloth section off the sprue last week and it went flying across the room. A week later and I still cant find the dam thing. I went mad looking high and low and its just poof gone! Ive since made a makeshift one using old bits, but still rather have the one it came with.
I like to wash all my parts before assembly and before painting, I don't know how necessary it is but it is part of my process.
For filling seams you can use some binder clips and press the two halves together, this will squeeze out some dissolved plastic and eliminate the gap. All that's left is some filing which can be done with the knife or a file. Binder clips are wonderous, especially the largest and are a never ending source of help. No fumes either
Word of advice for anyone watching!!! It takes longer but cut each piece one at a time.
For example, if you’re building Space Marines and you’re building the torso, cut one torso worth of pieces out, build them, and then rinse and repeat.
It extends your build time by minutes, but it helps keep focus and ensures that there aren’t mistakes
Thanks! This video was essential for me in figuring out how to get started. Just recently got Star Wars Shatterpoint and have had no issues with this advice.
Why am I just finding this channel?
Shut up and take my sub
This is a great video to share with friends who are just getting into the hobby! It is informative and comprehensive. Will you make a similar comprehensive video about painting miniatures (including using a wet palette, type of brushes, airbrushing, sprays, color selection, color theory, using reference pictures, types of paint, metallics, nmm, washes, inks, highlights, pigments, varnishes, etc.)? There are a lot of videos on YT about these individual topics, but not enough of them talk about the whole painting process and all the tools available for painting your miniatures.
Just want to say you're AMAZING! Thank you for the materials list and guide, just got into the hobby and you certainly helped A TON!
For me best part of the hobby is acctually building them.
I wish I had watched this last night! I started building my own set of blood warriors, accidentally clipped off corners from 3 of the body parts, did not clean them very well before gluing, and didn't even think about poses. So now they are all just standing straight and looking forward, with lots of seams and holes 😂 Oh well, this is my practice set!
@Petercross 😂😂
One of my model tricks is making rose bushes on bases. Take Verdia Veldt/Summer undergrowth bushes, put Valhallan Blizzard on them and then paint the white paste-like stuff with varying colors of red (I use Screamer Pink and Blood for the Blood god)
Got my first pair of sprue nips a month or so ago and I absolutely love them
Building and customising is my favorite part. They're the thing I wish I could do as commission
ive never bought a model yet but i love 3d printing the models you get to pose and assemble
I'm putting together a box of SoS at the moment. This video is very helpful!
0:55 that joke had me cracking up 🥁😂
Clear and concise with great tips.
I find Krylon Fusion to be a good primer as well. It's designed for plastic and can be bought cheap at Walmart, Ace Hardware, etc. in a variety of colors and finishes.
You're such a chad for tackling this. CHAD!
Looking at those orks without the heads they really reminded me of the Allicons from Transformers the Movie.
I just got a box of Gretchin and used a Spellcrow head as well
This Channel is great! Keep up the great work!!
Was watching with CC accidentally turned on. Evidently this channel is called "Younza Battle" @0:01.
Aww, my favourite part of the hobby atm is assembling the models; maybe in the future, might literally just assemble minis and then flog 'em unpainted on [generic internet auction site].
Just assemble 'em for therapy!
Oh also (and I see lotsa people not do this on YT), give the model a quick dunk and brush in warm water before paint... I tend to do mine while still on sprue, but can be done when even fully assembled.
I keep my dull blades for removing mould lines when I use new ones I’m really really good at gouging the models haha
I used pill bottles as paint handles. My process is sub-assembly I keep the bits associated with figure in pill bottle this away I don’t lose stuff.
Super glue is better for starters because you can always break them apart and repaint/fix the bonds. If you use plastic cement it will be stronger, but it will be less forgiving when you gain some skill and want to redo the early models.
I don't mind assembly, priming or painting but I do hate tidying the pieces and getting rid of mold lines.
Thank you thank you bc I'm just starting out and you answered alot of questions I have/had
I started with tau and to be completely honest it wasn’t as hard as I made it out to be in my head. I thought my hands would spaz all over the place but all I needed was a relaxing environment and some music.
Would love to see how u paint those orks up!! x
toenail clippers work surprisingly well at tiding up moddels
I'm taking some of these tips to my Gundam builds. Haven't stepped towards painting yet, but that appears inevitable at this time lol. Thanks for the content.
Yes
I'm pretty new to Warhammer and have been catching up on the lore and I was a fan of collecting mini figs, the table top game and other things but was scared of making and painting mini figs but this vid made me less scared
Thank you so so much for these videos. Now I need one for painting:)
"Every box should get a new blade"
Yeah no chef, I ain’t got the money for new blades
Ikr, it's insane to switch blades that often.
I'm still running the blades that came witj my xacto and they work just fine.
You can get replacement blades for about 10p a piece. How much is a box of 40k?
@@pinoarias8601 Obviously I don't know how long you've used those blades or how much use they had in that time but you would 100% see better results using a fresh blade, you choosing not to do so doesn't change that fact
@@CharlieAllertonRSA Well it's only been 3 months, but as soon as I notice resistance in my blade I'm switching it.
All new blades mean is more blood for the blood god! The sharper the blade the more slips into my hand :/
What #11 blades do you recommend? I am of the mindset get cheap ones and replace when needed. Also I recommend plastruct plastic weld.
Just pick one from Amazon - they are so cheap that the fact they may not hold an edge as long as a 'name brand' blade (when they probably come from the same factory) that cost is not really a factor.
Imo I like slight sprue cut damage because it adds to the roughed up look of soldiers
How much sprue is needed to mix in to make the THICC version? How small do the chunks of sprue need to be? Asking before trying so I do it right the first time and avoid any headaches of doing it wrong. Thanks for the video as always it was helpful, even when I think I know everything there is still stuff to learn.
the smaller the pieces the faster they will dissolve, small enough to easily fit through the opening of the bottle. I would say about a pea-sized amount then let it dissolve then see if it's a nice thick on the applicator brush.
Love it! I have a similar method when it comes to putting together new models (or kitbashing from the sprue pile) really excited my death guard terrain was shown on your video! Question, (and I realize this is may be tricky to answer) how thin do you like that black primer to be when shooting through the air brush? As thin as any acryllic paints should be or thinner? Keep up the great work!
I use stynylrez black primer and it is all set and ready to airbrush but I find primer should be a little thick, maybe a bit thicker than milk.
I did get a few nice tips to use in the future of my Ork's
I don't mind seams going down the inside or even outside of pants sometimes.
Pants have seams? So if paint catches on it, it just looks like an authentic inseam
Apparently you can hand in empty sprues for recycling at some gamesworkshop stores (UK, and some in the US) instead of the garbage
Wonder if you could drill some room for Neodymium magnets for the arms. That way you aren't set on one thing.
I VOTES FOR MORE WAAAAGH!
Super helpful! Thank you 🙏
Where did you get that drill, my larger drill bits won't fit in the chuck. Your drill looks like has a separate chucks permanently fixed to the drill bit which is awesome
It's a hand drill, it can only fit small drill bits (smaller than 1/4"). I bought mine on amazon, it is this: www.amazon.com/Professional-0-8-3-0mm-Precision-Jewelry-Assembling/dp/B07TRGW3W7/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hand+drill&qid=1614451230&sr=8-3
How much sprue do you put to make your thicc plastic cement? Great video!
Maybe a silly question but how do you decide when to paint the mini with it’s base (finished design etc) and when to paint the mini without the base?
I usually paint the base separately if it is going to be a lot of painting work, like detailed scenery or marble effect, if it's just some simple sand to basecoat and drybrush I just glue the model first.
I wanted to see the painting too!
Also, build all your models in a set back to back. Will prevent burnout.
Oh damn I need to get that tamiya putty, that's WAY better than applying Green Stuff.
Why do you use Plastic cement on the gap before applying the Tamiya putty ?
the Tamiya putty can be thinned with plastic glue so the layer of cement helps the putty flow into the crack.
Can you do one of these for painting? I feel like I've been left hanging.
What is the advantage of putting plastic into extra thin instead of just using the normal Tamiya glue?
the thin Tamiya bonds only what touches and with some plastic kits the joints don't make a PERFECT bond. o the thick glue fixes this by squishing into a seam when you press the two halves together.
Yeah I know that part, but why are you not mixing it with normal Tamiya Cement instead of thin cement?
That one is already more viscous and also cheaper than the extra thin cement.
I'm wondering if a necron royal warden can be converted to hold either of the spare weapons from the necron immortals sprue from the 40k imperium magazine collection
What drill size do people use for drilling barrels?
1mm is about right for barrels on marines and orcs, but a little big for guard las-rifles. Bonus is that standard uncoated paper clips are also 1mm, allowing for one drill bit to handle both jobs
About how much spru do you add to the glue in order to make the Thick glue?
Hello Jay I can't stand the citadel pot do you recommend transferring my paints to an eye dropper bottle
What is your opinion on making Sprue-goo? If anyone doesn't know, it's mixing Sprue pieces and placing them inside your bottle of glue.
I never really liked the building process of many models. The hive tyrant was a nice one as it wasn't unnecessarily complicated but my goodness the paragon warsuits. They have way too many bits and pieces.
Good thing I saw this video before I cracked open my first Warhammer 40k set of the sisters of battle
I think I'll get myself some poster tack, double sided tape is just not strong enough
Is it heresy to paint detail while the parts are still on the sprue? I do that personally and its SOOO much better than building then painting. Like il cut off the previously bonded parts so I can have an easier time building
When building warhammer is it the same as building Gundam?, I've only built Gundam alot of high grades and a few Mgs
I build model tanks and yes most models I get have 100 to 200 parts easily, sometimes more.
Blu tac on the joints while painting sub assembly’s why have I never gone this... goodbye bad connections.
Thx for the tips
I actually kind of like the building more than the painting. I enjoy the painting yes, but as someone who grew up on and still loves Legos, I think there's an inner part of me that just loves putting things together.
Thanks!
I find poster tack too sticky, it stuck to the black base when I was painting. is there an alternative?