You don't have to use a wire-piercing probe if you don't have one. You can actually use a safety pin or even a clothes pin (the kind used to hold cloth together before sewing). You can use either of them to pierce the wire insulation enough to access the signal. Another option is a back probe, which you can find online, and it lets you access the signal without piercing at all. When you're done, make sure to seal up the hole with some black electrical tape to keep the wire protected. Hope that helps-good luck with the test!
The testing process for the 1990-1997 2.2L Honda Accord is the same as in the video, but the wire colors are different. I've written a tutorial that explains the test in a step-by-step way on my website. You can find it here: easyautodiagnostics.com/honda/2200/testing-the-tps Hope it helps!
On my 2000 Honda Civic, I replaced the tps sensor but did not calibrate it and just bolted it on. I started the engine and got a check engine light and the code "p0122" which is circuit A low voltage. Does this mean at idle my volts are below .5? And does this code sound like an uncalibrated tps sensor? The actual tps sensor is also brand new btw.
Ok update the power voltage I have is 7.20 volts and my ground is 15.20 on the connector without being connected to tps any idea why my ground and power to tps is not accurate?
I hope you can help me out. Im getting code p0122 constantly after 3 tps already. Ive done Everything in this video and it reads correctly. I have even replaced the throttle body and it drive fine for 140 miles and then it started to give me issues with the transmission. Thanks in advance.
Yes, you can start out by checking the 5 Volt supply. I personally have found that by checking the TP signal output first, I can immediately find out if the TP sensor isn't producing its variable voltage output. If the TP voltage signal is doing what it's supposed to do, I can forgo the other two tests and focus my diagnostic efforts elsewhere. This is just my workflow. There's no right or wrong way, as long as you reach the correct conclusion.
Hello visrupt! The voltage should be higher. The manual calls for a max TPS output voltage of 4.8 Volts DC with the throttle plate wide open (but this is for the Honda CRV with a 2.0L engine for the United States market). I have a few quick questions to help narrow things down: 1. What year is your Honda CRV? 2.What's the engine size? 3. Do you have a TPS diagnostic trouble code lighting up the check engine light? If so, what’s the code? 4. Has the TPS been replaced before? The original usually has studs (that have to be drilled out to remove the TPS), but replacements often use Phillips head screws (to attach it to the throttle body). 5. Is the wire supplying 5 volts to the TPS actually giving a full 5 volts? 6. When you manually open and close the throttle plate (not using the accelerated pedal), does it open and close smoothly? Let me know, and we’ll get to the bottom of this!
@tecman129 it's a 1996 JDM AT version with the B20B motor. Yes it seems to have been replaced by the previous owner judging by the philips head screws on the sensor. I have no codes, I just thought of checking it because I noticed my car would try to lock-up the torque converter a little too early. Off of a stop, light throttle, at about 25kph it'll try to lock-up, and also would downshift late on inclines unless I press the gas pedal a little more. I mean it's not a big deal, I just thought it can be a bit smoother. Before i got to the tps, I checked the vss. Speedometer doesn't work but the sensor itself works, pulses the signal voltage fine. Battery voltage and ground is ok for both sensors as well. Everything works fine, it's just the upper voltage limit of the tps that seems to be "limited". I say this because I can adjust the lower limit from 0.45 to 0.5 but the upper limit seems to stay at around 3.6v. Maybe there's some adjustment screws on the throttle plate that the previous owner messed with? I haven't checked yet. Edit: regarding the 5v supply yes it checks out.
@@visrupt Thanks for the info! Based on what you’ve described, I don’t think the "throttle plate idle stop" screw is misadjusted. Here’s why: The throttle body has two screws that can be adjusted (or misadjusted): 1. The idle air bleed screw 2. The throttle plate stop screw The "throttle plate stop" screw physically changes how much the throttle plate stays open at rest, which directly influences the TPS output voltage only at the closed throttle position. So, even if the "throttle plate stop" screw was adjusted by the previous owner, it would only affect the TPS voltage at the lower limit (closed throttle) and not at the higher limit (wide open throttle - WOT). Since you’re seeing a max TPS reading of 3.5 volts at WOT, we can rule out the "throttle plate stop" screw being the cause. We can also rule out the "idle air bleed" screw, as it only affects idle airflow and won’t impact the TPS voltage at either closed throttle or WOT. Note: The "throttle plate idle stop" screw is located on the opposite side of the throttle body where the accelerator cable connects, while the "idle air bleed" screw is typically on top of the throttle body. I'm starting to think the throttle position sensor itself might be defective, especially since it’s receiving 5 volts DC. If I were in your shoes, I’d consider getting a second opinion by checking another vehicle with the same engine. If that's not an option, and depending on the TPS cost, replacing it could be worth a shot (sometimes that’s the best approach when resources are limited). Since the throttle position sensor has been replaced, there's a good chance a cheap Chinese knock-off sensor has been used, and these POS parts are infamous for glitching out in strange ways. Also, since these vehicles are often modified, is there a chance the throttle body isn’t the factory-installed one? That’s something I’d look into as well. Hope this helps!
@@tecman129 @tecman129 @tecman129 thanks for the very detailed response! Your initial reply gave me interest to try again and figure out the issue, and I did 😀 I have a 1996 jdm version and unlike the typical automatic rd1s, I have a cable-driven transmission which doesn't use a linear solenoid like most do. The throttle plate has two cables with adjustable tension. One goes to the gas pedal, the other goes down to the transmission, sort of like playing tug of war with each other. Looking at the arrangement, the cable that connects to the transmission is what tells it what gear to use depending on the throttle position. That cable was adjusted too tight, messing with the shift timing, and preventing the throttle to fully open. I just drove it on a 50km trip and I'm surprised. The clunky lock-up engagement and shifting I was noticing, which made me consider swapping the transmission and the only reason I knew there were two types of automatic transmissions used in rd1s, is now gone 😯 I don't know why I didn't bother fixing the tps in the first place. I knew there was something causing the transmission to act up. When I tested it and it threw consistent voltages, I thought meh it's fine, just needs some adjustment no big deal. If I didnt come across your video, and you, replying to a la me comment, I wouldn't have gotten the interest in actually figuring it out so thank you 🙏 now I have a smooth transmission and a fully open throttle 😂
@tecman129 thanks for the very detailed response! Your initial reply gave me interest to try again and figure out the issue, and I did 😀 I have a 1996 jdm version and unlike the typical automatic rd1s, I have a cable-driven transmission which doesn't use a linear solenoid like most do. The throttle plate has two cables with adjustable tension. One goes to the gas pedal, the other goes down to the transmission, sort of like playing tug of war with each other. Looking at the arrangement, the cable that connects to the transmission is what tells it what gear to use depending on the throttle position. That cable was adjusted too tight, messing with the shift timing, and preventing the throttle to fully open. I just drove it on a 50km trip and I'm surprised. The clunky lock-up engagement and shifting I was noticing, which made me consider swapping the transmission and the only reason I knew there were two types of automatic transmissions used in rd1s, is now gone 😯 I don't know why I didn't bother fixing the tps issue. I knew there was something causing the transmission to act up. When I tested it and it threw consistent voltages, I thought meh just needs some adjustments, no big deal. If I didn't come across your video, I wouldn't have the interest to actually fix it so thank you 🙏 Now I have a smooth transmission and a fully open throttle 😂
Yes, Honda did change the TPS in 2002, along with the engine size. The 1997-2001 CR-V has a 2.0L engine, while the 2002 model and up comes with a 2.4L engine, and this engine uses a different TPS. However, the TPS testing method itself remains the same. Since the 2002 CRV TPS is different, you’ll just need to identify the specific wires to test: the 5-volt supply wire, the TPS signal wire, and the TPS ground wire. Once you’ve got those, you can test it just like shown in the video for the 1997-2001 2.0L Honda CRV. The step-by-step test procedure (for the 2002-2004 2.4L Honda CRV) can be found here: easyautodiagnostics.com/honda/2400/testing-the-tps Hope this helps!
I was wondering if you could please help me out . I tested 3 different tps sensors and neither of them move when I move the throttle. I'm wondering does the ecu have anything to do with the signal coming out of the tps . Or does the tps send the signal on it's own. Its weird that I tested three of them and like I said neither move at all when I throttle it by hand. Please let me know.
It sounds like your throttle position sensor (TPS) might be misadjusted, especially if it’s been replaced before. If you’re seeing Phillips head screws on the sensor, that’s pretty much a good sign it’s been replaced, as the Honda factory sensor uses tamper-proof screws. When a new TPS is installed, it needs to be adjusted so that it reads 0.5 volts at closed throttle (with the throttle plate fully at rest). To adjust it, loosen the screws holding the TPS just enough to rotate the sensor slightly. Then, use a multimeter to set it to read 0.5 volts with the throttle plate closed. This should help bring your voltage within the correct range at both the closed and wide-open throttle positions. Hope this helps!
If you're getting 5 Volts and Ground is present, but the TPS signal voltage is off, then the TPS is bad. Just out of curiosity, what is the TPS signal voltage you're getting at closed throttle and at open throttle?
What is the specific trouble code you're getting? Please post it here and I'll see what I can do to help you troubleshoot it. The trouble code number itself is a clue to what is happening.
What the code for thad got the 2000 ex 5 speed honda cr-v put the machine to see what code give me i got 2 code 1 position sensor intermittent interruption p1381 the 2 it Radon cylinder misfire Deteeted p1399 iam put new thistribudor oready thank let me now please you now driving it for like 30 m got parking it got staring on don't want stared way like 20 m it staring ogaing
Wup bro got my Honda CR-V and today got thad code take aut map f car go off put back staring it stay on take put back tray got off thing need new one where can got good price check auto zone asking me $65 dollar to much thing thank you
¡Gracias! Me alegra que te haya sido útil. Puedes encontrar más información sobre el Honda CR-V 2.0L en mi sitio web en español aquí: autotecnico-online.com/honda/2000 ¡Espero que te sirva!
Great video, thank you. Didn't help my problem but helped the know how. Thanks you.
Buen trabajo amigo saludo bendicione 💪 🤝 👍 💯
Is there a way to do it without piecing the wires I don’t have that bit. I have 5 volts and ground
You don't have to use a wire-piercing probe if you don't have one.
You can actually use a safety pin or even a clothes pin (the kind used to hold cloth together before sewing). You can use either of them to pierce the wire insulation enough to access the signal.
Another option is a back probe, which you can find online, and it lets you access the signal without piercing at all.
When you're done, make sure to seal up the hole with some black electrical tape to keep the wire protected.
Hope that helps-good luck with the test!
@ wow thanks a lot that’s very smart.
How do I know which wire to back probe? In your case, pink color of the wire is pink
Thank you for your video. Good quality content. Could the test(s) be effective on a 1997 Honda Accord?
The testing process for the 1990-1997 2.2L Honda Accord is the same as in the video, but the wire colors are different. I've written a tutorial that explains the test in a step-by-step way on my website. You can find it here:
easyautodiagnostics.com/honda/2200/testing-the-tps
Hope it helps!
What if i get a reading of 1.2v instead 0.5v? That's the lowest I could adjust my sensor. Is my TPS failing?
Very good vlogger step by step instruction think you for all
amazing video . very easy to follow . thanks
On my 2000 Honda Civic, I replaced the tps sensor but did not calibrate it and just bolted it on. I started the engine and got a check engine light and the code "p0122" which is circuit A low voltage. Does this mean at idle my volts are below .5? And does this code sound like an uncalibrated tps sensor? The actual tps sensor is also brand new btw.
did you solve it?
I am having the same problem
Did you solve it?
Great content great video different than every other video 👍
Ok update the power voltage I have is 7.20 volts and my ground is 15.20 on the connector without being connected to tps any idea why my ground and power to tps is not accurate?
I hope you can help me out.
Im getting code p0122 constantly after 3 tps already.
Ive done Everything in this video and it reads correctly.
I have even replaced the throttle body and it drive fine for 140 miles and then it started to give me issues with the transmission.
Thanks in advance.
Very Nice easy step by step guide... Thank you!
please in first test how connect red with black why you not connect them directly
Nice, But why check the variable DC before checking the 5 Volt supply,, I would start with the 5 Volt check, than proceed to the variable output.
Yes, you can start out by checking the 5 Volt supply. I personally have found that by checking the TP signal output first, I can immediately find out if the TP sensor isn't producing its variable voltage output. If the TP voltage signal is doing what it's supposed to do, I can forgo the other two tests and focus my diagnostic efforts elsewhere. This is just my workflow. There's no right or wrong way, as long as you reach the correct conclusion.
How about if the voltage only gets from 0.5v to 3.5v, is that normal?
Hello visrupt! The voltage should be higher. The manual calls for a max TPS output voltage of 4.8 Volts DC with the throttle plate wide open (but this is for the Honda CRV with a 2.0L engine for the United States market). I have a few quick questions to help narrow things down:
1. What year is your Honda CRV?
2.What's the engine size?
3. Do you have a TPS diagnostic trouble code lighting up the check engine light? If so, what’s the code?
4. Has the TPS been replaced before? The original usually has studs (that have to be drilled out to remove the TPS), but replacements often use Phillips head screws (to attach it to the throttle body).
5. Is the wire supplying 5 volts to the TPS actually giving a full 5 volts?
6. When you manually open and close the throttle plate (not using the accelerated pedal), does it open and close smoothly?
Let me know, and we’ll get to the bottom of this!
@tecman129 it's a 1996 JDM AT version with the B20B motor. Yes it seems to have been replaced by the previous owner judging by the philips head screws on the sensor.
I have no codes, I just thought of checking it because I noticed my car would try to lock-up the torque converter a little too early. Off of a stop, light throttle, at about 25kph it'll try to lock-up, and also would downshift late on inclines unless I press the gas pedal a little more. I mean it's not a big deal, I just thought it can be a bit smoother.
Before i got to the tps, I checked the vss. Speedometer doesn't work but the sensor itself works, pulses the signal voltage fine. Battery voltage and ground is ok for both sensors as well.
Everything works fine, it's just the upper voltage limit of the tps that seems to be "limited". I say this because I can adjust the lower limit from 0.45 to 0.5 but the upper limit seems to stay at around 3.6v. Maybe there's some adjustment screws on the throttle plate that the previous owner messed with? I haven't checked yet.
Edit: regarding the 5v supply yes it checks out.
@@visrupt Thanks for the info! Based on what you’ve described, I don’t think the "throttle plate idle stop" screw is misadjusted. Here’s why:
The throttle body has two screws that can be adjusted (or misadjusted):
1. The idle air bleed screw
2. The throttle plate stop screw
The "throttle plate stop" screw physically changes how much the throttle plate stays open at rest, which directly influences the TPS output voltage only at the closed throttle position. So, even if the "throttle plate stop" screw was adjusted by the previous owner, it would only affect the TPS voltage at the lower limit (closed throttle) and not at the higher limit (wide open throttle - WOT).
Since you’re seeing a max TPS reading of 3.5 volts at WOT, we can rule out the "throttle plate stop" screw being the cause.
We can also rule out the "idle air bleed" screw, as it only affects idle airflow and won’t impact the TPS voltage at either closed throttle or WOT.
Note: The "throttle plate idle stop" screw is located on the opposite side of the throttle body where the accelerator cable connects, while the "idle air bleed" screw is typically on top of the throttle body.
I'm starting to think the throttle position sensor itself might be defective, especially since it’s receiving 5 volts DC. If I were in your shoes, I’d consider getting a second opinion by checking another vehicle with the same engine.
If that's not an option, and depending on the TPS cost, replacing it could be worth a shot (sometimes that’s the best approach when resources are limited).
Since the throttle position sensor has been replaced, there's a good chance a cheap Chinese knock-off sensor has been used, and these POS parts are infamous for glitching out in strange ways.
Also, since these vehicles are often modified, is there a chance the throttle body isn’t the factory-installed one? That’s something I’d look into as well.
Hope this helps!
@@tecman129 @tecman129 @tecman129 thanks for the very detailed response! Your initial reply gave me interest to try again and figure out the issue, and I did 😀
I have a 1996 jdm version and unlike the typical automatic rd1s, I have a cable-driven transmission which doesn't use a linear solenoid like most do.
The throttle plate has two cables with adjustable tension. One goes to the gas pedal, the other goes down to the transmission, sort of like playing tug of war with each other. Looking at the arrangement, the cable that connects to the transmission is what tells it what gear to use depending on the throttle position. That cable was adjusted too tight, messing with the shift timing, and preventing the throttle to fully open.
I just drove it on a 50km trip and I'm surprised.
The clunky lock-up engagement and shifting I was noticing, which made me consider swapping the transmission and the only reason I knew there were two types of automatic transmissions used in rd1s, is now gone 😯
I don't know why I didn't bother fixing the tps in the first place. I knew there was something causing the transmission to act up. When I tested it and it threw consistent voltages, I thought meh it's fine, just needs some adjustment no big deal.
If I didnt come across your video, and you, replying to a la me comment, I wouldn't have gotten the interest in actually figuring it out so thank you 🙏
now I have a smooth transmission and a fully open throttle 😂
@tecman129 thanks for the very detailed response! Your initial reply gave me interest to try again and figure out the issue, and I did 😀
I have a 1996 jdm version and unlike the typical automatic rd1s, I have a cable-driven transmission which doesn't use a linear solenoid like most do.
The throttle plate has two cables with adjustable tension. One goes to the gas pedal, the other goes down to the transmission, sort of like playing tug of war with each other. Looking at the arrangement, the cable that connects to the transmission is what tells it what gear to use depending on the throttle position. That cable was adjusted too tight, messing with the shift timing, and preventing the throttle to fully open.
I just drove it on a 50km trip and I'm surprised.
The clunky lock-up engagement and shifting I was noticing, which made me consider swapping the transmission and the only reason I knew there were two types of automatic transmissions used in rd1s, is now gone 😯
I don't know why I didn't bother fixing the tps issue. I knew there was something causing the transmission to act up. When I tested it and it threw consistent voltages, I thought meh just needs some adjustments, no big deal.
If I didn't come across your video, I wouldn't have the interest to actually fix it so thank you 🙏
Now I have a smooth transmission and a fully open throttle 😂
My 5v wire reads 5v
Ground reads 11.5v tps does not hit 4.5 brand new tps can it be a faulty one being new
Im getting 0.50 at closed and 4.25 at wot. Any help? 1998 Civic EX 1.6 Liter
is my TPS defective always at 5.09 V both idle and full throttle?
Yes
Tps sensor is good but when tps sensor plug engin slow what damage in ecu
Did Honda change this part TPS in 2002?
Yes, Honda did change the TPS in 2002, along with the engine size. The 1997-2001 CR-V has a 2.0L engine, while the 2002 model and up comes with a 2.4L engine, and this engine uses a different TPS. However, the TPS testing method itself remains the same.
Since the 2002 CRV TPS is different, you’ll just need to identify the specific wires to test: the 5-volt supply wire, the TPS signal wire, and the TPS ground wire. Once you’ve got those, you can test it just like shown in the video for the 1997-2001 2.0L Honda CRV.
The step-by-step test procedure (for the 2002-2004 2.4L Honda CRV) can be found here:
easyautodiagnostics.com/honda/2400/testing-the-tps
Hope this helps!
My 98 CRV rpm jumping and the car jerk when driving. What’s the solution?
I was wondering if you could please help me out . I tested 3 different tps sensors and neither of them move when I move the throttle. I'm wondering does the ecu have anything to do with the signal coming out of the tps . Or does the tps send the signal on it's own. Its weird that I tested three of them and like I said neither move at all when I throttle it by hand. Please let me know.
Did you ever find out why?
@@brayanenrique2532 I ended up getting readings but I had a bad connection in my ecu which kept triggering a code .
Good vlogger good tutorial think for lot of knowledge
I have tried this and I am only getting .02 volts at close and 3.2 volts at wide open. Why is that?
It sounds like your throttle position sensor (TPS) might be misadjusted, especially if it’s been replaced before. If you’re seeing Phillips head screws on the sensor, that’s pretty much a good sign it’s been replaced, as the Honda factory sensor uses tamper-proof screws. When a new TPS is installed, it needs to be adjusted so that it reads 0.5 volts at closed throttle (with the throttle plate fully at rest).
To adjust it, loosen the screws holding the TPS just enough to rotate the sensor slightly. Then, use a multimeter to set it to read 0.5 volts with the throttle plate closed. This should help bring your voltage within the correct range at both the closed and wide-open throttle positions.
Hope this helps!
Hi Sir. Can share a test Toyota throttle body ?
I am getting good power and ground but am not getting the correct signal voltage (middle blk red terminal) any help
If you're getting 5 Volts and Ground is present, but the TPS signal voltage is off, then the TPS is bad. Just out of curiosity, what is the TPS signal voltage you're getting at closed throttle and at open throttle?
@@tecman129what happens if you disconnect it and drive
Great 👌. I learned from your instructions. More to come. Thanks
WELL DONE SIR!
My gosh, your positive battery terminal is so close to your intake pipe!
Good day my check light is stll coming on ofter about 15minutes of driving why is that?
And the code is 7
I have 6.40 volts of volts is that bad ?isn't supposed to be 5.0 volts?
So the tps is getting power but 6.40 volts
you really need to use a scope to visualize the voltage ramp to see how well the TPS is tracking.
If this the same for calibrating a tps
Power is 5v
Reference is .5-4.5
Ground checks out 12.6
Why is it still throwing a TPS code
Replaced the sensor as well
What is the specific trouble code you're getting? Please post it here and I'll see what I can do to help you troubleshoot it. The trouble code number itself is a clue to what is happening.
Thank you so much for your help. My error code is 54-1 in a CRV
thanks very much
Perfect thank you
Thanks
Thank you
Teşekkürler .
What the code for thad got the 2000 ex 5 speed honda cr-v put the machine to see what code give me i got 2 code 1 position sensor intermittent interruption p1381 the 2 it Radon cylinder misfire Deteeted p1399 iam put new thistribudor oready thank let me now please you now driving it for like 30 m got parking it got staring on don't want stared way like 20 m it staring ogaing
My litgh for the motor coming on to
Honda crv 1999 arranca con falló por la mañana
Nada que ver ese auto viejo con el Accord del 2000 en adelante
Wup bro got my Honda CR-V and today got thad code take aut map f car go off put back staring it stay on take put back tray got off thing need new one where can got good price check auto zone asking me $65 dollar to much thing thank you
Rispekt
B
excelente aporte
¡Gracias! Me alegra que te haya sido útil. Puedes encontrar más información sobre el Honda CR-V 2.0L en mi sitio web en español aquí:
autotecnico-online.com/honda/2000
¡Espero que te sirva!
Very good vlogger step by step instruction think you for all
Thanks !