Absolutely the number one guy for anything 5.4 3v related. My 09 f150 started having issues with sucking 5 MTE for every .5 mile once my gas light would come on. Didnt think much of it the past 2 weeks since I had a regear and engine rebuild this past month, lo and behold I go to gas her up last night and it sounded like a loud gust of wind. My paranoia didnt let that go so I spent an hour at the gas station til I found this video tested it and the sucker is WIIIIDE open. Glad I caught it before my tank started to compress.
So it wasn’t the fuel fill inlet? You replaced the canister purge? I’m getting P0442. Smoke testing isn’t an option until after Christmas so I’ll try this test.
Thank you sir! Even my Ford dealership is trying to order the newer version of the purge valve for my truck. After seeing your video, I told them otherwise and they told me that I was mistaken. Thanks again!
Excellent video, thanks. Have a 2010 F-150 with a 4.6L. Engine was idling rough after it was warmed up, died after 5-10 minutes of idling. Had to apply full throttle after filling up with gas just to get engine started. Had stuck lean codes for both O2 sensors. Replaced evap valve after finding tech bulletin for this, runs fine now.
Neither of those purge valves look like what is on the 2011 3.5 Eco Boost Engine on the F150. I had the warning light "Check Fuel Inlet" but no check engine light, with the analyzer I had a P0457 Pending code. I changed the purge valve and now I'm waiting to see if this has cured the issue.
I had this happen on my 2010. Started off with a code for a large air leak, then it changed into the "check fuel cap" code and displayed on the dash LED board. Tried the capless fuel cap clean out trick twice, to no avail, then researched the initial code and found this video. Stuck completely open, solved it easy in like, 2 minutes. XD So easy to diagnose. Part was a wee bit more than that up here in the Great White North, but it did solve the problem of the constant "Check Fuel Cap" code!!!
Thank you so much for the video. I have a 2011 3.7 XLT and the “check fuel intake” code kept appearing every time i started the truck, the check engine light was on and my truck took longer to start after a fill up. I did the finger test and it was sucking air like no other. $33 replacement and it’s all good! Easy fix. Thanks again!
I came across and E150 . Everytime the owner would fuel up it wouldn't start back, it would stall if it was running, if it sat for a while it would blow black smoke out the tailpipe with a rough idle and leave a carbon smell . The codes flashed everything on another shop changed a ton of parts ,FPDM, FPS, Pump etc because of this.
The sensor was at the back of my 2009 Expedition. It took 15 minutes to remove the sensor and replace it. Be sure to be patient when disconnecting the two hose guillotine connectors as you do not want to break off any plastic that could end up inside the engine.
Im currently deployed to the middle east and my wife is experiencing the same symptoms on my 2010 4.6 3v. I ordered a purge valve and she replaced it. Yet the truck is still doing the same thing. Struggles to maintain idle then stalls. Any suggestions? This truck was my grandfathers and dont want to see it down. She tries to drive my truck to work and around town 2-3 times a week to keep it from sitting. Any help would be appreciated
@@youngblood5863 Throttle body removal and cleaning did the trick on my 2010 F150. This guy has an excellent video on that process and even teaches you how to clear the codes after cleaning (very important).
whoever watches thes videos click on the advertisements and just leave it open for 2-3 min, you don't need to look at it, but it helps him out with videos!
Mine won’t start after fueling up I have to keep trying. Well this cause it ? The purge valve is sucking very loudly! Also have a hissing noise when putting the gas pump in
My son's 1992 had the problem where teh charcoal canister was filling with gas and then causing the engine to stay. I put a new canister on it just to have it happen again so I plugged teh line leading to the vacuum. That fixed the problem for awhile but now it started pumping gas into the canister again so raw fuel was trikling on the ground. So now I have plugged teh line running to the canister and removed the gas filled canister. I wonder what complications this may cause? I migigt try to reroute the line back to the gas tank, so if it wants to pump fuel all over the place it will not be dumping it on the ground.
Thank you so much for this Video. Can this problem applied to a 2016 Ford F-150 with a 5.0 Coyote. My truck stalled while driving and the ford dealership can figured it out what is wrong. Thank you for all your help
Thanks buddy that's my problem for sures. Started doin it once and well after fill up but now every time I put gas in it takes about 4 trys to start. Part source wants 220 bucks ouch
Okay so I changed the purge vavle and it seems to have solved my problem, (now starts after fuel fill up) but I noticed it only filled up to just over 3/4 of a tank, I looked and the tank is still sucked in, I imagine that's why it doesn't fill all the way, so what I wanna know is how do I get my tank back to normal
thank you for the video . Just went and tested this and it was sucking like a shop vac will be getting one in the morning to replace it. Now i just have to see why my brakes are pulsing while driving ford F150 2010 no light no codes i am stumped
@@RideShareConfessions Thank you for replying. Yes I too am having same issues. (ABS module refurbished, new brake pads all four tires. New front rotors/read rotors machined. Ford Dealership) The lights on the dash are gone which is great however the brake peddle still feels soft and or has travel. Some days better than others. When temps drop I def feel something is not performing as it should….had tire shop perform standard bleed twice..the result was noticeable for about two days but quickly went back to shitty braking response or caliper dragging. Took truck back to Ford whom did the brake service asked if they would perform electronic brake bleed using IDS…just like the ongoing ac/heat system. Pay high premium for little to no results and burden of proof is always on the consumer. Very disheartening.
Hello thank you for the video!!! I have been having a problem with shuting down after i fill up and i have to stick my finger in the fill neck to release the pressure then its fine untill i fill up again if i dont fill up it doesent do it only codes i have gotten are my left and right cat efficiency below threshold and a few months ago a code for trying to vacuum fuel (somthing like that) i have 10 f150 4.6l 2v should i also replace the evap canister? Thank you for your time have a good day!!!
Would it be possible that the valve is on the back side? I have a 2010 4.6 3v and cannot seem to find it where you show on the video. I am almost certain I see it on the back side but not much space is given to remove it.
Thanks so much for this video! This is exactly what was wrong with my truck. The shop said it was a fuel cap malfunction, and on my truck, which doesn’t have a fuel cap, it would have cost over $400 to replace the stuff I do have instead of a fuel cap. I’ve ordered the part and will fix this next week when the part comes in. Thanks again!!!!
So your fuel inlet/hose was not the source of the leak? Did you get any specific codes? Any experiences since the time of this post? Thanks for sharing. I’m chasing ghost.
I Have An 06' Ford F150 5.4 Liter Triton. Canister Purge Valve Is On The Drivers Side, & It's Bigger Than The One U Showed. I Did The Test & It's Some Suction, More From The Hose But A Tad Bit Of Suction From The Purge Valve. The Truck Died Out While I Was Driving. It's A New Alternatior. Optiima Battery 800 CCA's ETC. It Starts Right Back Up Once I Crank It Back Up ETC.
Grateful for all your tips and tricks. 🙏 thankyou brother! Almost sold my truck Untill I found all your videos. Thanks again and keep up the good work and content! 👊 cheers 🍻
Quick problem: ( 2001 F150 5.4 L ) Problem: P0443 Not finding Shorts or Opens in circuit. Purge valve good. Purge n seal test. Good. Purge valve testing is good..opens and closes.. Thinking ECM controlled ground circuit is weak.. Thoughts?
Thank you for the video. My 2010 F150 5.4 L engine stalled at outside of manufacturing warranty at 37000 back in 2012 Had to tow to dealership to fixed it on my expense.
Between hearing what you and other online consumer reviews said about the purge valve staying open and allowing excess gas into the engine I'm about 99% sure that is the reason why my '10 f150 has shut down on me twice (once back in august and again two weeks ago) . I did have the purge valve replaced in december '17 after my check engine light came on so I'm starting to wonder if the purge valve is not the sole reason for the engine cutting off. Probably the best thing to do is have the dealer look at it again since the replacement work is under warranty.
My 14 F150 5.0 idles rough and stalls in drive while stopped every other cold start. Once it’s warmed up..no problems. No codes. It does warn low oil pressure once it dies but once fired back up that’s gone and gauge shows good pressure. New plugs, new air filter, clean MAF and good vacuum.
I have a 2017 f150 with the 5.0 it has never stalled or died on me and theres no check engine light. But was wondering if the canister purge valve could be causing my problem. It runs fine until the motor is warm. Usually runs about 600rpm idle but dips down to about 400rpm and idles rough causing a truck to shake even does it when coming to stops or anytime idling. Havent plugged in to test for hidden codes yet. Only has about 50k on the motor
I'm dealing with same symptoms 1989 F150. 5.0L. Fuelinj.4wd. Some say Ecc= Computer possessor..has soldiered capacitors that burn, Changed all ignition parts +
I have a 2004 F150 throwing Evap purge valve code that does exactly how you describe, it will die going down the road, usually at a stop, sometimes in the middle of a corner when Im driving with one hand and I lose power steering all of a sudden... drops coffee on floor.. man handles steering wheel away from oncoming traffic. Pretty sure its going to be wires, or dirty connection, but will be looking closer in the daylight. Also my truck needs the fuel pump module about every 2 years, they put them in the stupidest place for a Canadian truck. They rot out in a flash. This truck has had at least 6 of them since new.. I keep one in the glovebox now cause I was lucky to get out of the bush once, just barely. Would really love my 1984 Scottsdale again for a daily driver.. Everything but the gas mileage.
+Jessie Hachey it's also a 2004 split year.. its the 2004 body on a 2005 chassis, so I have to be careful about what parts I order. Some are 04 some are 05, and Im always returning parts when I bought for the wrong year.
I have an evap code that I had checked by someone with a quality scan tool and it showed valve A stuck open. He was able to command it closed/ open with scan tool and view it in live data as operating. So the conclusion was bad computer, not valve. My question now, is if it’s possible that a bad valve would effect the reading by the computer? It seems correct that scan tool to valve communication proves that valve is operating properly and wiring is intact, but I don’t know how valve and ecm communicate. Code came right back after reset. Also, if it’s computer, would 8/80 emissions warranty cover that? What are your thoughts?
I have the same code. I have a 2010 f150 5.4L, and did this test on the purge cannister. I didn't feel any suction unfortunately. How did yours turn out?
Hello the problem I’m having on my bosses 2013 is that it stops fueling up at 15.00 worth of gas I’ve change both the purge valve and the won on the canister wat can still be the problem please respond back
I have a couple of issues. I have a 2010 F150 STX with a 4.6, 2 valve engine. I can't fill my gas tank past 3/4 of a tank and I get the evap valve code. I can fill the gas tank using the filler funnel that came with the truck and a gas can. I also tried your test for the evap valve and there is no vacuum. What are your thoughts? Thanks
FordTechMakuloco No, just roads and highways. No off roading ever. I the eval vent on top of the fuel tank? I dropped the spare tire and couldn't find anything.
I have a 2016 F-150, the idle high has a acceleration issue when its either too hot or too cold. It doesnt stabilize until its in a normal temperature. When I turn it off and back on again, it begins to accelerate as if it was cold again.
Hi, I have a Ford f 150 2011 with a 3.7 engine, the problem I have is the rpm going up and down, I already replace the tps sensor and purge valve, and is happening the same, Tks for your help
I have a 2012 that had code P0446 which came up about a month ago. Two weeks ago in a snow storm the truck became stuck and had to be freed with a tow truck. Then all of the sudden the wrench light cane on gong down the road. I again put the engine scanner on and still only had the P0446 code. I crawled under the truck and inspected the drive shafts, steering and others soon crawling out I glanced up and seen that 2 wires had been just about broken through and they are beside the evaporation system. I spliced them together now the check engine light is out. Could those two wires shorting out cause a power train fault even though I could not find one? The truck acted funny if I was driving in wet conditions and the wires bing directly behind the drivers tire
I have 2014 F 150 Lariat with a 3.5L and my truck didn't do anything like that no black smoke nothing so I replaced it and my had the battery disconnected for about two hours and light still on, do I need to drive my vehicle more or pay 135 dollars at a dealership to clear it
My 09 F150 5.4 is having an issue where the RPMs surge 2-4 times as I'm coming to a stop, just like if I were to blip the throttle. RPMs fluctuate by maybe 200-300. It's never stalled or come close. It does this every time when in Drive, but when I drive in 3 or 2 it never does it, and runs perfectly smooth. In fact, the truck runs perfectly smooth at all times, no stalling or chugging. It only does this when coming to a stop. Once I stop, the idle is smooth as silk. Could this be the issue? It has all original timing components, zero timing chain noise, truck has 100k miles and is in fantastic condition. Also, it's never thrown a single code.
I have a 2010 F-150 with the 5.4L Flex Fuel engine and I looked where you said to in your video and I can't seem to find it. Where you show it in your video, on my engine, is a long metal tube of some kind that runs the entire length of the engine. Great video though and any help would be appreciated.
+Jeffery Sealing The tube you are looking at is the fuel rail. Your purge valve is right behind the throttle body two hose and an electrical connector.
I have a 2009 5.4 f150. The fuel pump fuse shot out under the hood. It would sputter starting and was also sucking the fuel tank in like it had suction inside it. I have relocated that fuse, replaced the starter, replaced the fuel pump, replaced the evap purge valve. The tank no longer sucks in and it runs perfectly once cranked. The temperature has been back in the 60s this week and it sputters to start. Turns over great but acts like it is flooded. What else could it be? I hear of a cannister purge valve? Any other ideas? Is the evap purge and the cannister purge the same thing? I replace the one on the top of the engine with the two hoses.
Replaced my stick open one then the new one started vibrating. I checked the connector and I’m getting fluctuating readings, so I’m thinking what’s controlling it is the problem and cause the first to fail. What readings should I be getting at the connector?
I had a varmint get under hood and chewed a wire to my cylinder head temp sensor , however when i reinstalled my purge valve it didnt seem to have a wire running to it , but on the valve itself ,i see where a wore is supposed to plug into it ....where does the wire come from that plugs into purge valve ?
If I drove around for 2 months with a decent evap leak then suddenly one day repair all the leaks 100%, would that cause the truck to run like crap until computer recalibrates back to proper air fuel ratio?
On my 96 explorer with a VMV, is the small vacuum control line to the solenoid supposed to be open at idle? I put a mityvac and it won't hold any vacuum. Basically a small vacuum leak, but nothing in the documentation says anything about it, don't know if its normal. Symptom is higher ltft, other things on that tee seem to hold vacuum. I don't think 96 run all the evap tests b/c there is no fuel level sensor, so the valve could be bad with no code.
2004 expedition 5.4 wire plug casing has burn marks from the canister purge valve. Would bad purge unit cause this or should i look for other places for problems?
quick question if this is still relevant. I have a 2013 mustang gt 5.0 with the boss 302 intake, i have this style purge valve solenoid, my car when down shifting will drop rpm and stall out but start right up, do you think this could be the same issue?
Hello, I appreciate the amount of time it must take you to record all this info, and I wanted to thank you. Videos are very informative. I have a perplexing problem. My 2010 F'n 50 4.6 3v has stalked many times. I changed out the evap valve this past Saturday. Sent smoothly and easily. Unfortunately, today while my wife was driving, it stalled again. She typically waits about 5 minutes and it will start again. Last Friday, it stalled 3 times, and 2 weeks ago, it stalled while she was on the freeway in the #2 Lane. We took it to dealer a few months ago, and they said "no codes. Nothing wrong." (It's happened before) I'm frustrated and heart broken. Bought it brand new in 2010 and it only has 60k on it. It has plenty of power. It rides smooth and quiet. (I drive a tacoma at work. Not smooth. Not quiet) Aside from the goofy shifting, it's been great (dealer said nothing wrong with transmission either) I can't risk my wife's safety any more (and she won't drive it after today, anyway) Give me a recommendation, please.
+Mark Fontaine I am currently having the same problem in my 2010 F-150 and going to replace Canister Purge Valve today after seeing this video. Did you fix your F-150?
+juan mejias changing the purge valve did not fix my problem. I'm beginning to think some sensor is getting hot and causing the vehicle to die. Since the weather cooled down, it hasn't happened again. First time it happened was on the way home from Anza Borrego desert state park. sorry it took so long to respond. Couldn't figure out how to reply to you.
I have a 1992 ford f-150 custom and my gas tanks are giving me problems. first it will only take gas really slowly and secondly now it's spewing gas from my rear tank. I'm sure it's the vent control valve but I'm not sure what to do any suggestions???
I took it off before starting truck Wasn't sucking when I started it.. Next I took it off when the truck was running..and it was sucking like crazy.. So..is it me?? Or is this thing bad..i have no codes..but can't fill my gas tank because something is wrong with the vent somewhere..
I get a P144C code on mine and they weren't sure if it's the Purge Valve solenoid or the Vapor Canister vent solenoid. Although I do hear a small hiss sound from the charcoal box. Should replacing the Canister solenoid fix the issue?
Thank you very much for posting this video. You’ve help me through my problems on my 07 F150 5.4 and now you’re helping me with a little headache on my 14 ford raptor 6.2L I’m a big fan!
Just got a 09 f150 they cleared everything at dealership I knew it was idling rough had it for three days and check engine came on and started dying when I came to a stop I knew I had a fuel issue looked at my tank it's caving in you explained everything that's happening to my truck
In hopes that you see this, I have a 2008 F350 SD with the 5.4 and I’m getting code P0446. I’ve changed the Canister vent Solenoid. Wires seem to be fine, what else could be the issue? I also noticed that the canister and components were filled with dirt, could that be the issue? Thank you I’m advance I you see this
I have a 2010 F150 5.4L that is throwing a P0451 code. Could the purge valve be my problem? Or is it specific to the Fuel tank pressure sensor being bad?
So I've got an f150 throwing up lean codes that's flooded on start if I shut the pump off with the pedal depressed it starts the I gotta rev it to keep it running.... I disconnected the evap it seemed better but now its not.... shot term is high and the long term was pegged it also showing a o2 stuck lean sometimes. It cranks but wont start any ideas?
Once again…. Hit the ball out if the park. I was just told that I have that same issue on my 2017 F150. Bad part is I was also told that it takes “2 hours” to complete the repair. Smh. $400 bucks to do it. Plus clearing the codes. Smh. I’m thinking that the estimate is higher than it should be. Any thoughts?
i just changed my fuel pump , my truck died on the interstate after pasing a car , had it towed home, since then its got a new battery and fuel pump , right after fuel pump it ran then slowly died , i started it again and it ran fine i parked it for 20-30 mins running then parked it again it drove good in the yard i came back after dinner pulled it in the shop again to reinstall the skid plates , went to move it again and now it does the same cycle of cranking and not starting - 2009 F-150 5.4 269k miles
Wow thank you also a problem with 2013 Ford Fusion. Car would “die” very helpful thank goodness no one got hurt but it was very distressing. Knew I wasn’t crazy.
I am having stalling issues on my 2002 f-250 runs fine but as I drive sown the road it will die pull over and it will start back up im very worried my wife can't drive it now because it stalled 3 times in a row in traffic with her and my son. Also my gauge cluster stopped working checked fuses they seem fine no lights work and I'm getting a chime while im driving interior lights locks and radio works fine would you know a solution to that as well? Thanks for all your great videos and time!
Hi and thanks for the video. I have a 1999 Ford F150 XLT 6 Cylinder. Recently my son was trying to find why my heater wasn't working. He pulled and tugged on everything. We finally found it was the switch inside and now it works. However afterwards the Service Engine Soon light came on. It comes up with the code P0443. So I watched this video and went out there and found the wires on the right were not pushed in so I snapped them in but the Service light is still on. I'm asking my friend to come back with the Code Reader to erase the code again. I hope that works. In any case thanks for the video. I'm so much smarter now! haha
took my 06' E250 Van in for a smog today and mechanic tinkered around stating that there was a vacuum leak caused by the " purge valve " not being securely fastened onto top valve opening ( sorry if this doesn't make sense , I don't know all the technical " lingo ") anyways does this seem reasonable ? I now have to find/buy one and then take it back to get it complete . also when driving home I had a check-engine light pop up !! , it wasn't doing that at all before' , Kinda feel cheated....also where can I purchase one for my year/model ? ( cheap) any help is appreciated ....
Brian, HUGE fan of your vids. I have a 2007 expy 5.4 3v that I've had tons of probs. With. I found a canister just below the radiator drain that is busted. It's rectangular shaped (kind of) and is around 10"x5" with hoses coming off it I think. what is that canister??
I had this issue happen to my 10 F-150 Lariat. I replaced the purge valve and now my fuel gauge won't show full. Its stops between the 3/4- Full. Even after I hit the 0 miles left on gas gauge, i still have over 10 gallon of fuel in there. Gas tank isn't sucked in either. Would you suggest that the fuel pump/sending unit is bad?
Either of y’all mind sharing what became of the issues y’all experienced? I’ve been dealing with similar issues however the code I get is P0442…I do recall seeing noticing fuel miles till empty cluster reading being noticeably inaccurate.
I replaced mine and it still turned off on me at a stop light. Idk what else to do. It’s done it ever since I bought brand new. Dealer couldn’t figure it out when I still had warranty.
Man. I have been living with this flipin problem for several years. Had several mechanics not have a clue. Thank you so much. I have a 2010 Ford F-150 with a 3 valve 4.6 liter v8. It would die out every now and then at intersections. And I hope it stops the shutter at 40 mph. ?? Will find out. Who designs this crap ? Lol.
@@damebag6308 i read on another post that the shutter ( mine does it as well) is caused by the transmission PCM or the main PCM.. ford also updated the software and can reprogram/update it for you.. they never posted back to if it worked or not..but i just bought a 2010 so i am going to have it done...
I'm not exactly the most handy person here but can you send me a link or a picture of where I can find this purge valve on. 2010 with the 5.4? Great video and thank you in advance
OK i have a problem the 08 ford wont take gas it shuts off at the gas pump i have replace 5 parts that deal with the fuel system and its still doing the same thing .
Please help me. I have 2010 f150 4.6. It's got a p1450 code (unable to bleed fuel up tank vaccum), and the other is p0443 purge valve circuit malfunction. I figured out exactly what's happening but don't kno the cause. When I start my truck and idle it's fine and the purge operates fine, but once I go on the road and the purge is commanded open, it stays open the rest of the time pulling a vacuum, whether at idle or running. But it can close back fine bc when I disconnect it it closes right back up. Is it a bad purge? Maybe the connectors on it, or is it bad wiring to the purge maybe? Or could it be the pcm but I don't think. Please help me out
How can I get him to watch my video on my channel i have looked everywhere to find out what's wrong with my 4.6 ... it's a clicking noise , not a cam phaser or injector it sounds like a relay near the radiator on the pass side ... and it's not the AC clutch ... I need help
I have a 2012 Ecoboost F150. I have O2 sensor lean and evap codes and I performed the test shown in this video and the valve is pulling vacuum at idle. Is BL3Z-9B325-C the right part number for me? The part in your description doesn't look like the one on my truck. Thanks!
Andrew Caporale This is the correct one for your ecoboost-www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SJIEW0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004SJIEW0&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=XZJJXJFJWDJ46ZFD
I thought so too but I don't see the valve/solenoid on this part, just looks like tubing. This one is the one on my truck and looks like the one in your video. www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/bl3z9b325c
+Andrew Caporale Did you replace your valve? I have the same problem with my 11' ecoboost, but just want to be sure I'm replacing the right part. The cx2400 part doesn't look like the right one to me.
Thank you a thousand times over !
Hey fellas this guy is like e.f. Hutton , when he talks you listen !
Perfect diagnostic. Changed out and working like a champ for 3 weeks so far
Absolutely the number one guy for anything 5.4 3v related. My 09 f150 started having issues with sucking 5 MTE for every .5 mile once my gas light would come on. Didnt think much of it the past 2 weeks since I had a regear and engine rebuild this past month, lo and behold I go to gas her up last night and it sounded like a loud gust of wind. My paranoia didnt let that go so I spent an hour at the gas station til I found this video tested it and the sucker is WIIIIDE open. Glad I caught it before my tank started to compress.
So it wasn’t the fuel fill inlet? You replaced the canister purge? I’m getting P0442. Smoke testing isn’t an option until after Christmas so I’ll try this test.
You are a hero man ! Please don't stop making these videos.
Thank you sir! Even my Ford dealership is trying to order the newer version of the purge valve for my truck. After seeing your video, I told them otherwise and they told me that I was mistaken. Thanks again!
Excellent video, thanks. Have a 2010 F-150 with a 4.6L. Engine was idling rough after it was warmed up, died after 5-10 minutes of idling. Had to apply full throttle after filling up with gas just to get engine started. Had stuck lean codes for both O2 sensors. Replaced evap valve after finding tech bulletin for this, runs fine now.
Mine is doing the exact same thing. Glad im not alone
Do you happen to know the part number? I have an 09 4.6 and im having trouble finding the part in this video
Neither of those purge valves look like what is on the 2011 3.5 Eco Boost Engine on the F150. I had the warning light "Check Fuel Inlet" but no check engine light, with the analyzer I had a P0457 Pending code. I changed the purge valve and now I'm waiting to see if this has cured the issue.
I had this happen on my 2010. Started off with a code for a large air leak, then it changed into the "check fuel cap" code and displayed on the dash LED board. Tried the capless fuel cap clean out trick twice, to no avail, then researched the initial code and found this video. Stuck completely open, solved it easy in like, 2 minutes. XD So easy to diagnose. Part was a wee bit more than that up here in the Great White North, but it did solve the problem of the constant "Check Fuel Cap" code!!!
Do you recall the emission/vacuum leak codes you observed? I’m getting P0442.
Thank you so much for the video. I have a 2011 3.7 XLT and the “check fuel intake” code kept appearing every time i started the truck, the check engine light was on and my truck took longer to start after a fill up. I did the finger test and it was sucking air like no other. $33 replacement and it’s all good! Easy fix. Thanks again!
I came across and E150 . Everytime the owner would fuel up it wouldn't start back, it would stall if it was running, if it sat for a while it would blow black smoke out the tailpipe with a rough idle and leave a carbon smell . The codes flashed everything on another shop changed a ton of parts ,FPDM, FPS, Pump etc because of this.
The sensor was at the back of my 2009 Expedition. It took 15 minutes to remove the sensor and replace it. Be sure to be patient when disconnecting the two hose guillotine connectors as you do not want to break off any plastic that could end up inside the engine.
I have a 2013. Probably the same location
Im currently deployed to the middle east and my wife is experiencing the same symptoms on my 2010 4.6 3v. I ordered a purge valve and she replaced it. Yet the truck is still doing the same thing. Struggles to maintain idle then stalls. Any suggestions? This truck was my grandfathers and dont want to see it down. She tries to drive my truck to work and around town 2-3 times a week to keep it from sitting. Any help would be appreciated
She recently had the fuel pump and sender replaced. Last summer when the truck was near 100k I had all the plugs replaced.
Thank you for your service! Stay safe, God Bless you, and God Bless the USA.
Did you ever figure it out? Mine is doing the same I’ve vacuum tested everything
@@KollynJ did you try cleaning the throttle body, try a can of crc throttle body cleaner
@@youngblood5863 Throttle body removal and cleaning did the trick on my 2010 F150. This guy has an excellent video on that process and even teaches you how to clear the codes after cleaning (very important).
whoever watches thes videos click on the advertisements and just leave it open for 2-3 min, you don't need to look at it, but it helps him out with videos!
Kevin Rogers Thanks dude!
You have saved me a lot of money over the years. Thanks again for another great video.
Indeed thank you
Yea me too!! I come here every time i have an issue. Hes a smart man.
Mine won’t start after fueling up I have to keep trying. Well this cause it ? The purge valve is sucking very loudly! Also have a hissing noise when putting the gas pump in
My son's 1992 had the problem where teh charcoal canister was filling with gas and then causing the engine to stay. I put a new canister on it just to have it happen again so I plugged teh line leading to the vacuum. That fixed the problem for awhile but now it started pumping gas into the canister again so raw fuel was trikling on the ground. So now I have plugged teh line running to the canister and removed the gas filled canister. I wonder what complications this may cause? I migigt try to reroute the line back to the gas tank, so if it wants to pump fuel all over the place it will not be dumping it on the ground.
Thank you so much for this Video. Can this problem applied to a 2016 Ford F-150 with a 5.0 Coyote. My truck stalled while driving and the ford dealership can figured it out what is wrong. Thank you for all your help
Does it have problems starting after filling your gas tank?
Thanks buddy that's my problem for sures. Started doin it once and well after fill up but now every time I put gas in it takes about 4 trys to start. Part source wants 220 bucks ouch
Thank you for the video! I was a little sceptical but it was super easy to change and it fixed immediately!! Saved me at least $300.00
Simple fix, small part causes big issues. I almost changed out the 02s, but decided to Google found this and it was my problem in my 2012
Okay so I changed the purge vavle and it seems to have solved my problem, (now starts after fuel fill up) but I noticed it only filled up to just over 3/4 of a tank, I looked and the tank is still sucked in, I imagine that's why it doesn't fill all the way, so what I wanna know is how do I get my tank back to normal
Owen Nicholson Only way that I would attempt is to remove it and get it back into shape on the ground.
Actually looks like it's gone back by itself
thank you for the video . Just went and tested this and it was sucking like a shop vac will be getting one in the morning to replace it.
Now i just have to see why my brakes are pulsing while driving ford F150 2010 no light no codes i am stumped
Ever find the source of the brake issues?
@@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt yes it was the brake caliper and the line
@@RideShareConfessions Thank you for replying. Yes I too am having same issues. (ABS module refurbished, new brake pads all four tires. New front rotors/read rotors machined. Ford Dealership)
The lights on the dash are gone which is great however the brake peddle still feels soft and or has travel. Some days better than others. When temps drop I def feel something is not performing as it should….had tire shop perform standard bleed twice..the result was noticeable for about two days but quickly went back to shitty braking response or caliper dragging.
Took truck back to Ford whom did the brake service asked if they would perform electronic brake bleed using IDS…just like the ongoing ac/heat system. Pay high premium for little to no results and burden of proof is always on the consumer. Very disheartening.
Hello thank you for the video!!! I have been having a problem with shuting down after i fill up and i have to stick my finger in the fill neck to release the pressure then its fine untill i fill up again if i dont fill up it doesent do it only codes i have gotten are my left and right cat efficiency below threshold and a few months ago a code for trying to vacuum fuel (somthing like that) i have 10 f150 4.6l 2v should i also replace the evap canister? Thank you for your time have a good day!!!
Would it be possible that the valve is on the back side? I have a 2010 4.6 3v and cannot seem to find it where you show on the video. I am almost certain I see it on the back side but not much space is given to remove it.
Thanks so much for this video! This is exactly what was wrong with my truck. The shop said it was a fuel cap malfunction, and on my truck, which doesn’t have a fuel cap, it would have cost over $400 to replace the stuff I do have instead of a fuel cap. I’ve ordered the part and will fix this next week when the part comes in. Thanks again!!!!
So your fuel inlet/hose was not the source of the leak? Did you get any specific codes? Any experiences since the time of this post? Thanks for sharing. I’m chasing ghost.
I Have An 06' Ford F150 5.4 Liter Triton. Canister Purge Valve Is On The Drivers Side, & It's Bigger Than The One U Showed. I Did The Test & It's Some Suction, More From The Hose But A Tad Bit Of Suction From The Purge Valve. The Truck Died Out While I Was Driving. It's A New Alternatior. Optiima Battery 800 CCA's ETC. It Starts Right Back Up Once I Crank It Back Up ETC.
Grateful for all your tips and tricks. 🙏 thankyou brother! Almost sold my truck Untill I found all your videos. Thanks again and keep up the good work and content! 👊 cheers 🍻
Quick problem: ( 2001 F150 5.4 L ) Problem: P0443
Not finding Shorts or Opens in circuit. Purge valve good. Purge n seal test. Good.
Purge valve testing is good..opens and closes..
Thinking ECM controlled ground circuit is weak..
Thoughts?
Thank you for the video. My 2010 F150 5.4 L engine stalled at outside of manufacturing warranty at 37000 back in 2012
Had to tow to dealership to fixed it on my expense.
thanks tested valve with finger it sucked a red mark on it felt like it was stuck wide open
Between hearing what you and other online consumer reviews said about the purge valve staying open and allowing excess gas into the engine I'm about 99% sure that is the reason why my '10 f150 has shut down on me twice (once back in august and again two weeks ago) . I did have the purge valve replaced in december '17 after my check engine light came on so I'm starting to wonder if the purge valve is not the sole reason for the engine cutting off. Probably the best thing to do is have the dealer look at it again since the replacement work is under warranty.
Sounds like you did everything you were supposed to. What became of the repair? Any updates or experiences since the time of this post? Thank you
U find the issue ?
My 14 F150 5.0 idles rough and stalls in drive while stopped every other cold start. Once it’s warmed up..no problems. No codes. It does warn low oil pressure once it dies but once fired back up that’s gone and gauge shows good pressure. New plugs, new air filter, clean MAF and good vacuum.
Did you figure out what was wrong🤔
@@bchappy5460 Just living with it.
@@Steve007362436 every fixed the issue?
@@laracairns4124 It finally threw codes p0171 and p0174, didn't find any vacuum leaks. Parked it until I can get it in the shop.
Hi, I have a 2004 f150 and it cranks but won't start. When I spray starting fluid it starts but that's the only way it'll start. Can you help me?
I have a 2017 f150 with the 5.0 it has never stalled or died on me and theres no check engine light. But was wondering if the canister purge valve could be causing my problem. It runs fine until the motor is warm. Usually runs about 600rpm idle but dips down to about 400rpm and idles rough causing a truck to shake even does it when coming to stops or anytime idling. Havent plugged in to test for hidden codes yet. Only has about 50k on the motor
Did you figure out what it was??
I'm dealing with same symptoms 1989 F150. 5.0L. Fuelinj.4wd. Some say Ecc= Computer possessor..has soldiered capacitors that burn, Changed all ignition parts +
I have a 2004 F150 throwing Evap purge valve code that does exactly how you describe, it will die going down the road, usually at a stop, sometimes in the middle of a corner when Im driving with one hand and I lose power steering all of a sudden... drops coffee on floor.. man handles steering wheel away from oncoming traffic. Pretty sure its going to be wires, or dirty connection, but will be looking closer in the daylight. Also my truck needs the fuel pump module about every 2 years, they put them in the stupidest place for a Canadian truck. They rot out in a flash. This truck has had at least 6 of them since new.. I keep one in the glovebox now cause I was lucky to get out of the bush once, just barely. Would really love my 1984 Scottsdale again for a daily driver.. Everything but the gas mileage.
+Jessie Hachey
it's also a 2004 split year.. its the 2004 body on a 2005 chassis, so I have to be careful about what parts I order. Some are 04 some are 05, and Im always returning parts when I bought for the wrong year.
I have an evap code that I had checked by someone with a quality scan tool and it showed valve A stuck open. He was able to command it closed/ open with scan tool and view it in live data as operating. So the conclusion was bad computer, not valve. My question now, is if it’s possible that a bad valve would effect the reading by the computer? It seems correct that scan tool to valve communication proves that valve is operating properly and wiring is intact, but I don’t know how valve and ecm communicate. Code came right back after reset. Also, if it’s computer, would 8/80 emissions warranty cover that? What are your thoughts?
Im getting a P0455 (EVAP system Leak Detected) Large Leak.
Would this be it?
I have the same code. I have a 2010 f150 5.4L, and did this test on the purge cannister. I didn't feel any suction unfortunately. How did yours turn out?
Hello the problem I’m having on my bosses 2013 is that it stops fueling up at 15.00 worth of gas I’ve change both the purge valve and the won on the canister wat can still be the problem please respond back
I have a couple of issues. I have a 2010 F150 STX with a 4.6, 2 valve engine. I can't fill my gas tank past 3/4 of a tank and I get the evap valve code. I can fill the gas tank using the filler funnel that came with the truck and a gas can. I also tried your test for the evap valve and there is no vacuum. What are your thoughts? Thanks
Lawry Larson Sounds more like your evap vent is clogged, you drive on allot of dirt or gravel roads?
FordTechMakuloco No, just roads and highways. No off roading ever. I the eval vent on top of the fuel tank? I dropped the spare tire and couldn't find anything.
I have a 2016 F-150, the idle high has a acceleration issue when its either too hot or too cold. It doesnt stabilize until its in a normal temperature. When I turn it off and back on again, it begins to accelerate as if it was cold again.
Hi, I have a Ford f 150 2011 with a 3.7 engine, the problem I have is the rpm going up and down, I already replace the tps sensor and purge valve, and is happening the same, Tks for your help
I have a 2012 that had code P0446 which came up about a month ago. Two weeks ago in a snow storm the truck became stuck and had to be freed with a tow truck. Then all of the sudden the wrench light cane on gong down the road. I again put the engine scanner on and still only had the P0446 code. I crawled under the truck and inspected the drive shafts, steering and others soon crawling out I glanced up and seen that 2 wires had been just about broken through and they are beside the evaporation system. I spliced them together now the check engine light is out. Could those two wires shorting out cause a power train fault even though I could not find one? The truck acted funny if I was driving in wet conditions and the wires bing directly behind the drivers tire
That 2nd sensor you said was on the older models is not a purge valve it's a fuel pressure sensor and is on the fuel rail
No I was definitely talking about the old reliable style canister purge valves 2008 and older.
I have 2014 F 150 Lariat with a 3.5L and my truck didn't do anything like that no black smoke nothing so I replaced it and my had the battery disconnected for about two hours and light still on, do I need to drive my vehicle more or pay 135 dollars at a dealership to clear it
Your tips n tricks have helped me a great deal with mine and I have an 05 5.4 3 valve. Many thanks!
Did this apply to your 2005
So if there is suction on your finger that means change it out? Mines got suction
My 09 F150 5.4 is having an issue where the RPMs surge 2-4 times as I'm coming to a stop, just like if I were to blip the throttle. RPMs fluctuate by maybe 200-300. It's never stalled or come close. It does this every time when in Drive, but when I drive in 3 or 2 it never does it, and runs perfectly smooth. In fact, the truck runs perfectly smooth at all times, no stalling or chugging. It only does this when coming to a stop. Once I stop, the idle is smooth as silk. Could this be the issue? It has all original timing components, zero timing chain noise, truck has 100k miles and is in fantastic condition. Also, it's never thrown a single code.
I have a 2010 F-150 with the 5.4L Flex Fuel engine and I looked where you said to in your video and I can't seem to find it. Where you show it in your video, on my engine, is a long metal tube of some kind that runs the entire length of the engine. Great video though and any help would be appreciated.
+Jeffery Sealing The tube you are looking at is the fuel rail. Your purge valve is right behind the throttle body two hose and an electrical connector.
+FordTechMakuloco Thank you!
I have a 2009 5.4 f150. The fuel pump fuse shot out under the hood. It would sputter starting and was also sucking the fuel tank in like it had suction inside it. I have relocated that fuse, replaced the starter, replaced the fuel pump, replaced the evap purge valve. The tank no longer sucks in and it runs perfectly once cranked. The temperature has been back in the 60s this week and it sputters to start. Turns over great but acts like it is flooded. What else could it be? I hear of a cannister purge valve? Any other ideas? Is the evap purge and the cannister purge the same thing? I replace the one on the top of the engine with the two hoses.
Replaced my stick open one then the new one started vibrating. I checked the connector and I’m getting fluctuating readings, so I’m thinking what’s controlling it is the problem and cause the first to fail. What readings should I be getting at the connector?
p0446 code.hauled 2 yards of topsoil in rear,code came on.replaced gas cap and purge vale,used,code remains.vent valve or canister? 08 4.6 8cyl.
I had a varmint get under hood and chewed a wire to my cylinder head temp sensor , however when i reinstalled my purge valve it didnt seem to have a wire running to it , but on the valve itself ,i see where a wore is supposed to plug into it ....where does the wire come from that plugs into purge valve ?
Any pic would be greatly appreciated
Will always throw a code? Or prompt a check engine light?
Would I be getting very Bad MPG's because the output hose to the tank (return) is clogged pr squeezed?
If I drove around for 2 months with a decent evap leak then suddenly one day repair all the leaks 100%, would that cause the truck to run like crap until computer recalibrates back to proper air fuel ratio?
On my 96 explorer with a VMV, is the small vacuum control line to the solenoid supposed to be open at idle? I put a mityvac and it won't hold any vacuum. Basically a small vacuum leak, but nothing in the documentation says anything about it, don't know if its normal.
Symptom is higher ltft, other things on that tee seem to hold vacuum.
I don't think 96 run all the evap tests b/c there is no fuel level sensor, so the valve could be bad with no code.
2004 expedition 5.4 wire plug casing has burn marks from the canister purge valve. Would bad purge unit cause this or should i look for other places for problems?
quick question if this is still relevant. I have a 2013 mustang gt 5.0 with the boss 302 intake, i have this style purge valve solenoid, my car when down shifting will drop rpm and stall out but start right up, do you think this could be the same issue?
Hello,
I appreciate the amount of time it must take you to record all this info, and I wanted to thank you. Videos are very informative. I have a perplexing problem. My 2010 F'n 50 4.6 3v has stalked many times. I changed out the evap valve this past Saturday. Sent smoothly and easily. Unfortunately, today while my wife was driving, it stalled again. She typically waits about 5 minutes and it will start again. Last Friday, it stalled 3 times, and 2 weeks ago, it stalled while she was on the freeway in the #2 Lane. We took it to dealer a few months ago, and they said "no codes. Nothing wrong." (It's happened before) I'm frustrated and heart broken. Bought it brand new in 2010 and it only has 60k on it. It has plenty of power. It rides smooth and quiet. (I drive a tacoma at work. Not smooth. Not quiet) Aside from the goofy shifting, it's been great (dealer said nothing wrong with transmission either) I can't risk my wife's safety any more (and she won't drive it after today, anyway) Give me a recommendation, please.
+Mark Fontaine
I am currently having the same problem in my 2010 F-150 and going to replace Canister Purge Valve today after seeing this video. Did you fix your F-150?
+juan mejias changing the purge valve did not fix my problem. I'm beginning to think some sensor is getting hot and causing the vehicle to die. Since the weather cooled down, it hasn't happened again. First time it happened was on the way home from Anza Borrego desert state park. sorry it took so long to respond. Couldn't figure out how to reply to you.
I have a 1992 ford f-150 custom and my gas tanks are giving me problems. first it will only take gas really slowly and secondly now it's spewing gas from my rear tank. I'm sure it's the vent control valve but I'm not sure what to do any suggestions???
Ford should own up to this.... Everyone had this problem with this part.
I have a 2014 expedition 5.43 vale where is the idle control valve or the purge valve located
I only see replacements without lines. My lines are connected to the valve. Do the lines come off or are they one piece . Any advice is appreciated!
I’ve got a 2000 F-150 throwing code p1443. Comes up as purge valve solenoid. Can it be repaired or only replaced?
I took it off before starting truck
Wasn't sucking when I started it..
Next I took it off when the truck was running..and it was sucking like crazy..
So..is it me??
Or is this thing bad..i have no codes..but can't fill my gas tank because something is wrong with the vent somewhere..
when you do the suction test with your finger, should I connect wire harness back on?
no
@@FordTechMakuloco Thank you.
My 2014 Raptor makes ticking noise inside the cockpit near the infotainment screen , does the CPV causes that kind of ticking noises constantly
I get a P144C code on mine and they weren't sure if it's the Purge Valve solenoid or the Vapor Canister vent solenoid. Although I do hear a small hiss sound from the charcoal box. Should replacing the Canister solenoid fix the issue?
Generally it is the purge valve.
Thank you very much for posting this video. You’ve help me through my problems on my 07 F150 5.4 and now you’re helping me with a little headache on my 14 ford raptor 6.2L I’m a big fan!
This will be work for Ford expedition 2007 5.4
Just got a 09 f150 they cleared everything at dealership I knew it was idling rough had it for three days and check engine came on and started dying when I came to a stop I knew I had a fuel issue looked at my tank it's caving in you explained everything that's happening to my truck
What about a p0452 code? 08 f150 4.2 v6..... put gas in it and then it runs like crap for awhile popping back firing.
Fixed the issue. Thanks for all the advice you post-much appreciated.
I have a 2016 F150 3.5L ecoboost...where is THIS located on this engine? I have the part, just need to know where to find it on the engine.
In hopes that you see this, I have a 2008 F350 SD with the 5.4 and I’m getting code P0446. I’ve changed the Canister vent Solenoid. Wires seem to be fine, what else could be the issue? I also noticed that the canister and components were filled with dirt, could that be the issue? Thank you I’m advance I you see this
I have a 2010 F150 5.4L that is throwing a P0451 code. Could the purge valve be my problem? Or is it specific to the Fuel tank pressure sensor being bad?
So I've got an f150 throwing up lean codes that's flooded on start if I shut the pump off with the pedal depressed it starts the I gotta rev it to keep it running.... I disconnected the evap it seemed better but now its not.... shot term is high and the long term was pegged it also showing a o2 stuck lean sometimes. It cranks but wont start any ideas?
Once again…. Hit the ball out if the park. I was just told that I have that same issue on my 2017 F150. Bad part is I was also told that it takes “2 hours” to complete the repair. Smh. $400 bucks to do it. Plus clearing the codes. Smh. I’m thinking that the estimate is higher than it should be. Any thoughts?
i just changed my fuel pump , my truck died on the interstate after pasing a car , had it towed home, since then its got a new battery and fuel pump , right after fuel pump it ran then slowly died , i started it again and it ran fine i parked it for 20-30 mins running then parked it again it drove good in the yard i came back after dinner pulled it in the shop again to reinstall the skid plates , went to move it again and now it does the same cycle of cranking and not starting - 2009 F-150 5.4 269k miles
I have Forscan im not seeing anything alarming
Wow thank you also a problem with 2013 Ford Fusion. Car would “die” very helpful thank goodness no one got hurt but it was very distressing. Knew I wasn’t crazy.
Can You do a video on a 2008 ford explorer xlt charcoal canister where its location and how the clean it.
+Tonia Washington it's on top of the tank and cannot be cleaned
I am having stalling issues on my 2002 f-250 runs fine but as I drive sown the road it will die pull over and it will start back up im very worried my wife can't drive it now because it stalled 3 times in a row in traffic with her and my son. Also my gauge cluster stopped working checked fuses they seem fine no lights work and I'm getting a chime while im driving interior lights locks and radio works fine would you know a solution to that as well? Thanks for all your great videos and time!
I’m having this same issue on a 2005. Could it still The the same problem as the 09+ models?
Hi and thanks for the video. I have a 1999 Ford F150 XLT 6 Cylinder. Recently my son was trying to find why my heater wasn't working. He pulled and tugged on everything. We finally found it was the switch inside and now it works. However afterwards the Service Engine Soon light came on. It comes up with the code P0443. So I watched this video and went out there and found the wires on the right were not pushed in so I snapped them in but the Service light is still on. I'm asking my friend to come back with the Code Reader to erase the code again. I hope that works. In any case thanks for the video. I'm so much smarter now! haha
took my 06' E250 Van in for a smog today and mechanic tinkered around stating that there was a vacuum leak caused by the " purge valve " not being securely fastened onto top valve opening ( sorry if this doesn't make sense , I don't know all the technical " lingo ") anyways does this seem reasonable ? I now have to find/buy one and then take it back to get it complete . also when driving home I had a check-engine light pop up !! , it wasn't doing that at all before' , Kinda feel cheated....also where can I purchase one for my year/model ? ( cheap) any help is appreciated ....
Brian, HUGE fan of your vids. I have a 2007 expy 5.4 3v that I've had tons of probs. With. I found a canister just below the radiator drain that is busted. It's rectangular shaped (kind of) and is around 10"x5" with hoses coming off it I think. what is that canister??
I had this issue happen to my 10 F-150 Lariat. I replaced the purge valve and now my fuel gauge won't show full. Its stops between the 3/4- Full. Even after I hit the 0 miles left on gas gauge, i still have over 10 gallon of fuel in there. Gas tank isn't sucked in either. Would you suggest that the fuel pump/sending unit is bad?
Same thing is happening to me after replacing the purge valve, did you ever find the solution?
Either of y’all mind sharing what became of the issues y’all experienced? I’ve been dealing with similar issues however the code I get is P0442…I do recall seeing noticing fuel miles till empty cluster reading being noticeably inaccurate.
I replaced mine and it still turned off on me at a stop light. Idk what else to do. It’s done it ever since I bought brand new. Dealer couldn’t figure it out when I still had warranty.
Having trouble humming sound on top intake when I give it gas it stops humming
what if 5.4 3v stalls with no codes when stopping or turning left?
Was it an alternator?
No alternator is original and works great
@@davidhodgin3792 DId you figure out the issue?
@@MikeFarowe No never have got an answer. Still looking
@@davidhodgin3792 VCT Solenoids?
Where you buy that part. Please
I have a 2010 6.2 f150, is located near the throttle body?
I have a 2001 ford escape with p1451 code which is pointing me to replace canister vent solenoid valve but can't find it's location please help.
Man. I have been living with this flipin problem for several years. Had several mechanics not have a clue. Thank you so much. I have a 2010 Ford F-150 with a 3 valve 4.6 liter v8. It would die out every now and then at intersections. And I hope it stops the shutter at 40 mph. ?? Will find out. Who designs this crap ? Lol.
Hey man. I know a year later, But I have the same issue. Stutter at low rpms. Did you figure it out?
@@damebag6308 i read on another post that the shutter ( mine does it as well) is caused by the transmission PCM or the main PCM.. ford also updated the software and can reprogram/update it for you.. they never posted back to if it worked or not..but i just bought a 2010 so i am going to have it done...
I'm not exactly the most handy person here but can you send me a link or a picture of where I can find this purge valve on. 2010 with the 5.4? Great video and thank you in advance
pm me on facebook I can help there.
OK i have a problem the 08 ford wont take gas it shuts off at the gas pump i have replace 5 parts that deal with the fuel system and its still doing the same thing .
Please help me. I have 2010 f150 4.6. It's got a p1450 code (unable to bleed fuel up tank vaccum), and the other is p0443 purge valve circuit malfunction. I figured out exactly what's happening but don't kno the cause. When I start my truck and idle it's fine and the purge operates fine, but once I go on the road and the purge is commanded open, it stays open the rest of the time pulling a vacuum, whether at idle or running. But it can close back fine bc when I disconnect it it closes right back up. Is it a bad purge? Maybe the connectors on it, or is it bad wiring to the purge maybe? Or could it be the pcm but I don't think. Please help me out
2013 f150 is shuts off at stop lights but it don't throw no way any codes
How can I get him to watch my video on my channel i have looked everywhere to find out what's wrong with my 4.6 ... it's a clicking noise , not a cam phaser or injector it sounds like a relay near the radiator on the pass side ... and it's not the AC clutch ... I need help
can u please tell me what the two black tin can looking things on the right inner fender r and its purpose thks inadvance
I did this test and I have no suction when it's plugged in or when it is unplugged is that normal?
I have a 2012 Ecoboost F150. I have O2 sensor lean and evap codes and I performed the test shown in this video and the valve is pulling vacuum at idle. Is BL3Z-9B325-C the right part number for me? The part in your description doesn't look like the one on my truck.
Thanks!
Andrew Caporale This is the correct one for your ecoboost-www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SJIEW0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004SJIEW0&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=XZJJXJFJWDJ46ZFD
I thought so too but I don't see the valve/solenoid on this part, just looks like tubing. This one is the one on my truck and looks like the one in your video. www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/bl3z9b325c
Andrew Caporale The one I linked to is what comes up in our ford parts catalog
+Andrew Caporale
Did you replace your valve? I have the same problem with my 11' ecoboost, but just want to be sure I'm replacing the right part. The cx2400 part doesn't look like the right one to me.