I very rarely comment on videos, but this is a phenomenal video. You show the used parts (so they look like what they'll look like in real life!) and offer really practical solutions for if things don't end up appearing exactly as they're supposed to. Thanks so much!
As a Professional Automotive Engineer of 40 years, I'm used to using the 8D method of problem resolution. The first step is to identify ROOT CAUSE. Without root cause you cannot develop a robust solution. Then I can develop a DIY solution (not necessarily the same as a 'factory' solution) that anyone can use. Or, at least, that's what I try to do. Glad I succeeded this time and thank you for the kind words.
Great solution. I’ve just used it on my Jeep JK and it worked perfectly. Much better solution than some of the others being suggested on UA-cam. Thank you for sharing!
Awesome! I must get a link to some suitable clips in the description. Something I forgot to include in the video (and didn't do to mine, gggrrr!) - give the body studs a wire brushing and treat with rust converter before putting your shield back. Slows down the corrosion process.
This video was exactly what I needed. Described my issue and I really didn't want the expense and hassle of a new shield and removing the exhaust. Followed this video and have resolved my rattling heat shield. Thankyou. 👍
I love your videos. They're packed full of useful tips. I never thought of using a kerb to give more access under the car - certainly quicker and safer than jacking it up for small jobs. Keep up the good work
This is exactly what I was searching to find info and solutions for! Smart idea with the creative aluminum can washers. Thank you! I may consider a rubber gasket / spacer between the steel fixing and the homemade washer to further prevent the corrosion of the different metals rubbing on each other.
Honestly, I just pull these off @ work, when they're loose. I've done it on diesels, petrols & shields below fuel tank. Never had an issue. I do admire your resourceful use of a soda can though!
Here in the UK if you pull off one of these on the bodywork that'll be okay, but if you remove one from around the fuel tank it will fail it's MoT. I have found though, that ones fitted around tanks are held in place differently and don't come loose so easy.
Here in Northern Ireland, I've never had one fail on heat shields. Although our government run testing centres are very lenient. The test only lasts 20 minutes too. It's scary some of the passes I've seen.
@@nothingmuch.3014 yeah, I should have said Great Britain rather than UK, but I didn't know where you were and most people around the world recognise UK better. The NI MoT is different. In all seriousness: with most tanks being plastic now, try to fix loose shields on tanks. In the UK climate the fire risk is very small, but it does exist.
I took you tip and added a slit up the side of the pop can bottom then I only had to turn the nut half way down and slip the washer on between the nut and heat shield and tighten it down again. I was able to leave the exhaust in place this way.
A design that was never going to last! Great method Cyd, tried similar with the existing hex fixings but there is not enough thread left on the stud so these other type of fixings are good. I'd be tempted to put some suitable grease on the stud too.
Interesting, forgot about the free sheet metal we get with every soda! Was thinking of a steel plate but you reminded me of galvanic corrosion! Saved myself from that on an earlier battery swap with some modification from zinc coated to tin coated connections!
Well done mate. Really helpful. I bought a small sheet of Aluminium from Wickes for £11 and cut it to size and used those circular clips from Halfords. The original screw clips were corded on, but got them off with a screw driver and cleaned the threads. Great job !!!
Great simple video straight to the point, was thinking of doing the same using cans as to not make the galvanic corrosion any worse and wanted to find a video of someone trying the same thing to see if it would work or if there was a better way, never thought to paint the cans though so glad I found your videos
Brilliant! Thank you, I had been seeking a larger washer for this issue. Mine only rattles, or I only notice the rattle when it starts, but 100% heat shield issue. I will go cut some aluminum cans and paint them today.
Sunny day in Lancashire , wedding anniversary today , Chelsea win last night ! Checked heat shield today - pristine 👌 treated bolts o corrosion protection “ It’s a beautiful day “😊
Yeah, the weather has picked up in the last few weeks. About time. Whereabouts in Lancs? I was born in Davyhulme and my Mum grew up there. I grew up in Timperley after we moved when I was 6.
I also like that you used the base of the can, which is dome shaped. That offers structural strength so your car will be dead for any other reasons before your fix falls apart.
Also the dome shape helps the 'washers' to fit into the depression around the fixings. Which is there to give an air gap between the shield and body. the shield reflects radiant heat and the air gap prevents conduction 👍
Honestly mate I'd buy you a pint. Cheers providing the links for the washers. Was going to just get some random washers from my hardware store but the ones linked look perfect for my Hyundai . Brilliant 3 quid fix and good tip about mounting the curb. Top bloke!
Just wanted say thank you for the info. Base of the can was too concave for the clip to thread, so I folded a piece of the side of the can in two and it did the trick ;) cheers
Instead of paint, you can use zinc anti-seize on everything. It will withstand heat better than paint, can't be scratched off and ill last longer. I also use it on any nut and bolt whenever I have anything unscrewed.
@@CycloneCyd have been following you and have learned good things, I'll put in pratice this last lesson having some rattling noise and my heat shilde is touching the flor if I have the car full
Yeah, JB is great - i once fixed a cracked head with it on a rally car. It lasted two rallies before I had to do it again before I eventually welded it.
@@CycloneCyd ive done it on the 9-5 a had and a landrover worked for 3 years on both but faild on the landrover at the 3 year mark and sold the 9-5 recently...massive regret.. i now have the new 2021 corsa elite. Very smooooth as they say, gota to admit pulls harder and faster in 1 or 2nd not sure but then thats it realy the sabb had forever lasting power after that lol i miss her but still love your vids please keep any vids tips nd tricks coming, as allways THANK YOU.
Yeah, a bit crusty. They are Maptun springs, so I'm gonna remove them, clean them up and treat with a rust converter and see if that will extend their life.
Thanks, I've actually been doing this for years. Some people take loose heat shields off, but back in my rallying days it wasn't unknown for the heat from exhausts to set fire to the underseal! We also had to remove the sound pads stuck on our rally car floor as they bubbled up due to the heat (saved a load of weight too).
@@CycloneCyd wow, i do like to keep on for the same reasons, there there for a reason... lol, but your way with the metals not been able to corrode properly should be Impliacecated into the automotive industry.
got 3 of the fasteners off, really can't get the last one loose to take off. All the fasteners and studs are quite rusty, but the threads felt smooth enough. Maybe just leave the fastener and add a new one? I'm hoping to avoid buying some sprays or heating it, as a video suggested
@@CycloneCyd it seemed to work. The aluminum cans worked great. What's even better is I used wing nuts which was much easier to install from that awkward position.
Very interesting! I thought the 'aluminium' beverage cans were made of some king of iron alloy since some of them at least have a magnet symbol on them. Maybe they are different here (France, Belgium) from how they are in the UK.
My younger son is a 3rd yr apprentice with Crown - one of the world's biggest can manufacturers! It's very simple: the can is either aluminium or steel. If it's magnetic it's steel. Cans are the same the world over.
@@CycloneCyd Thank you for your answer. If I understand well, if the can has the magnetic symbol then you should not use it for the purpose you've shown in your video but get instead one made of aluminium (no magnet symbol & magnets do not 'stick' to it).
another great and informative video. Quick saab related question to Cyd or anyone else on here, is it possible to swap the cd unit on a 2005 9-3 as mine has not worked since I bought the car??
Can you not drop the exhaust down like I did with the Saab? Alternatively use a few big 'splodges' of Stixall to hold the shield in place, it's brilliant stuff but try to put it away from the boxes amzn.to/3WeW2F8
Before and after. What's the actual sound this is making? When does it make it? What does it sound like after it's fixed? Anything else for diy is only part of the picture.
🎥 Repair a broken side mirror glass: ua-cam.com/video/-u8ef2qpcHA/v-deo.html
I very rarely comment on videos, but this is a phenomenal video. You show the used parts (so they look like what they'll look like in real life!) and offer really practical solutions for if things don't end up appearing exactly as they're supposed to. Thanks so much!
As a Professional Automotive Engineer of 40 years, I'm used to using the 8D method of problem resolution. The first step is to identify ROOT CAUSE. Without root cause you cannot develop a robust solution. Then I can develop a DIY solution (not necessarily the same as a 'factory' solution) that anyone can use.
Or, at least, that's what I try to do. Glad I succeeded this time and thank you for the kind words.
First time i have heard of this idea. Genius.
Great solution. I’ve just used it on my Jeep JK and it worked perfectly. Much better solution than some of the others being suggested on UA-cam. Thank you for sharing!
You are welcome Blu.
Thank you Cyd, a very timely video. I must do this to my car.
Awesome! I must get a link to some suitable clips in the description. Something I forgot to include in the video (and didn't do to mine, gggrrr!) - give the body studs a wire brushing and treat with rust converter before putting your shield back. Slows down the corrosion process.
A useful tip, well explained. I don't expect anything other from this channel! Thanks, Cyd! 👍
Cheers Martin
This old chap nation treasure most informative and the best car related video on UA-cam I'm only 1 min in, amazing brilliant props to you
This video was exactly what I needed. Described my issue and I really didn't want the expense and hassle of a new shield and removing the exhaust. Followed this video and have resolved my rattling heat shield. Thankyou. 👍
Great to hear!
Blood hell, I love you tube. This was my exact issue with a genius solution. Gonna give this a go!
It's 2 1/2 years now since I did this and they are still holding strong. No signs of corrosion
HOLY HECK. Saved me $30 bucks and the embarrassment of a rattling heat shield on a Jeep Patriot. This works!!! Genius!!
I love your videos. They're packed full of useful tips. I never thought of using a kerb to give more access under the car - certainly quicker and safer than jacking it up for small jobs. Keep up the good work
This is exactly what I was searching to find info and solutions for! Smart idea with the creative aluminum can washers. Thank you!
I may consider a rubber gasket / spacer between the steel fixing and the homemade washer to further prevent the corrosion of the different metals rubbing on each other.
Honestly, I just pull these off @ work, when they're loose. I've done it on diesels, petrols & shields below fuel tank. Never had an issue.
I do admire your resourceful use of a soda can though!
Here in the UK if you pull off one of these on the bodywork that'll be okay, but if you remove one from around the fuel tank it will fail it's MoT. I have found though, that ones fitted around tanks are held in place differently and don't come loose so easy.
Here in Northern Ireland, I've never had one fail on heat shields.
Although our government run testing centres are very lenient. The test only lasts 20 minutes too. It's scary some of the passes I've seen.
@@nothingmuch.3014 yeah, I should have said Great Britain rather than UK, but I didn't know where you were and most people around the world recognise UK better. The NI MoT is different.
In all seriousness: with most tanks being plastic now, try to fix loose shields on tanks. In the UK climate the fire risk is very small, but it does exist.
I took you tip and added a slit up the side of the pop can bottom then I only had to turn the nut half way down and slip the washer on between the nut and heat shield and tighten it down again. I was able to leave the exhaust in place this way.
👍
A design that was never going to last! Great method Cyd, tried similar with the existing hex fixings but there is not enough thread left on the stud so these other type of fixings are good. I'd be tempted to put some suitable grease on the stud too.
Or treat the stud with a rust converter.
It typically lasts 6-8 years, which is plenty long enough to be well out of warranty
@@CycloneCyd 👍 similar with the wheel arch liner plastic hex nuts, if you are not careful they snap the stud off!
Interesting, forgot about the free sheet metal we get with every soda! Was thinking of a steel plate but you reminded me of galvanic corrosion! Saved myself from that on an earlier battery swap with some modification from zinc coated to tin coated connections!
Brilliant. And I know bugger all about cars, much less what's under them. Thank you Sir
Well, was just looking for the fasteners for a Toyota Camry heat shield. But, I am not disappointed. Love the editing and music man!
Thanks.
Well done mate. Really helpful. I bought a small sheet of Aluminium from Wickes for £11 and cut it to size and used those circular clips from Halfords. The original screw clips were corded on, but got them off with a screw driver and cleaned the threads. Great job !!!
Nice work! Many ways to skin a cat and all that 👍 Happy to get your creative engineering juices flowing
The push washer (what we called them in the US) as a great idea, if the head of the bolt comes off. Excellent tip!
Brilliant mate, cheers. I'm off to the races with this fix.
No problem 👍
Great simple video straight to the point, was thinking of doing the same using cans as to not make the galvanic corrosion any worse and wanted to find a video of someone trying the same thing to see if it would work or if there was a better way, never thought to paint the cans though so glad I found your videos
Great video. Problem soved easily and cheaply!
👍👍
Yeah, good idea. :)
Truth to be told I once "repaired" a broken exhaust pipe with a beer can and some metal strips. Got me another 14 days to run on.
Brilliant! Thank you, I had been seeking a larger washer for this issue. Mine only rattles, or I only notice the rattle when it starts, but 100% heat shield issue. I will go cut some aluminum cans and paint them today.
Fantastic!
Simple but very effective i like it sorta just stumbled into this video for some giggles but loved it
Sunny day in Lancashire , wedding anniversary today , Chelsea win last night ! Checked heat shield today - pristine 👌 treated bolts o
corrosion protection
“ It’s a beautiful day “😊
Yeah, the weather has picked up in the last few weeks. About time.
Whereabouts in Lancs? I was born in Davyhulme and my Mum grew up there. I grew up in Timperley after we moved when I was 6.
awesome tip with the cans, I will defiantly use it for my project.
Great video!!! So much info. Probably the best tutorial I’ve seen. Great work!!! 👍🏾
I also like that you used the base of the can, which is dome shaped. That offers structural strength so your car will be dead for any other reasons before your fix falls apart.
Also the dome shape helps the 'washers' to fit into the depression around the fixings. Which is there to give an air gap between the shield and body. the shield reflects radiant heat and the air gap prevents conduction 👍
This actually worked!! Thanks for the tip!
Great to hear!
Thumbs up for the curve idea. Never thought about that.
Honestly mate I'd buy you a pint. Cheers providing the links for the washers. Was going to just get some random washers from my hardware store but the ones linked look perfect for my Hyundai . Brilliant 3 quid fix and good tip about mounting the curb. Top bloke!
Great idea for the bottom of a beer can, baulked at the cost of them to replace ( 80 quid !) so will try this out.
Just wanted say thank you for the info. Base of the can was too concave for the clip to thread, so I folded a piece of the side of the can in two and it did the trick ;) cheers
Thank you so much for the help. Also thanks for mentioning galvanic corrosion
Thanks for the tip to fix the heatshield. Worked perfect on my Saab 9-3 👌
Best home pics I've seen yet
home pics? Huh?
@@CycloneCyd Not at a professional shop, taking pics at home, duh.
@@kanth66 ah, right. Thanks
I thought of this idea at work today and then started browsing UA-cam, glad someone is here to back it up
Wonderful!!! Absolutely wonderful!!! 💯🔥
Simple, but effective. The sort of repairs I like.
excellent video, amazing idea, you are a gentleman
Very useful as ever - need to check mine
Glad it was helpful!
Always love your cool videos
Thanks Mohammad, 👍
Instead of paint, you can use zinc anti-seize on everything. It will withstand heat better than paint, can't be scratched off and ill last longer. I also use it on any nut and bolt whenever I have anything unscrewed.
Thank you!
ceramic grease between the 2 metals will greatly help reduce any reaction.
Very smart. Thank you.
Brilliant. Thank you for sharing
Thank you very much for your video you are the best appreciate your tutorials
Glad you like them and hope you find them useful or maybe learn something new (learning is always good)
@@CycloneCyd have been following you and have learned good things, I'll put in pratice this last lesson having some rattling noise and my heat shilde is touching the flor if I have the car full
@@nunograca7416 let us know how you get on, please
Great vids !! 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼😎
Appreciate it!!
great really helpfull thank you
Glad it helped!
Awesomely done ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Merci!
Metal cable ties or jb weldc aorked for me many times haha
Yeah, JB is great - i once fixed a cracked head with it on a rally car. It lasted two rallies before I had to do it again before I eventually welded it.
@@CycloneCyd ive done it on the 9-5 a had and a landrover worked for 3 years on both but faild on the landrover at the 3 year mark and sold the 9-5 recently...massive regret.. i now have the new 2021 corsa elite. Very smooooth as they say, gota to admit pulls harder and faster in 1 or 2nd not sure but then thats it realy the sabb had forever lasting power after that lol i miss her but still love your vids please keep any vids tips nd tricks coming, as allways THANK YOU.
That coil spring looks......well worn in :P
Those springs gonna need changing soon 👀
Yeah, a bit crusty. They are Maptun springs, so I'm gonna remove them, clean them up and treat with a rust converter and see if that will extend their life.
nice well done
Thanks!
Very tidy much better than ewt else
Thanks, I've actually been doing this for years. Some people take loose heat shields off, but back in my rallying days it wasn't unknown for the heat from exhausts to set fire to the underseal! We also had to remove the sound pads stuck on our rally car floor as they bubbled up due to the heat (saved a load of weight too).
@@CycloneCyd wow, i do like to keep on for the same reasons, there there for a reason... lol, but your way with the metals not been able to corrode properly should be Impliacecated into the automotive industry.
What does the paint offer?
Amazing
Thanks
got 3 of the fasteners off, really can't get the last one loose to take off. All the fasteners and studs are quite rusty, but the threads felt smooth enough. Maybe just leave the fastener and add a new one? I'm hoping to avoid buying some sprays or heating it, as a video suggested
Adding a new one over the old one is quite a good idea. let us know how you get on
@@CycloneCyd it seemed to work. The aluminum cans worked great. What's even better is I used wing nuts which was much easier to install from that awkward position.
Very interesting! I thought the 'aluminium' beverage cans were made of some king of iron alloy since some of them at least have a magnet symbol on them. Maybe they are different here (France, Belgium) from how they are in the UK.
My younger son is a 3rd yr apprentice with Crown - one of the world's biggest can manufacturers!
It's very simple: the can is either aluminium or steel. If it's magnetic it's steel. Cans are the same the world over.
This isn't absolute, but as a rule of thumb, drinks cans are aluminium, food cans are steel
@@CycloneCyd Thank you for your answer. If I understand well, if the can has the magnetic symbol then you should not use it for the purpose you've shown in your video but get instead one made of aluminium (no magnet symbol & magnets do not 'stick' to it).
@@SerbanCMusca-ut8ny spot on, you got it
Which way up do those fixings go..is it curved side up or down please?
Any advice for a poor sap like me who managed to break the bolts off when trying to loosen the nuts?
Glue in place with Stixall or Tiger Seal
Is the drink can bit essential or can I just use those star nut things?
another great and informative video.
Quick saab related question to Cyd or anyone else on here, is it possible to swap the cd unit on a 2005 9-3 as mine has not worked since I bought the car??
head unit or multi player in the boot? If the former, you can replace it with the same but it will need 'marrying' to the car with Tech 2
@@CycloneCyd thanks for the reply, guess I'll stick with minidisc (yes i admit it I'm old) and phone through the aux
I am having the same problem with my RX350. Without removing the exhaust, it’s very hard to access the point.
Can you not drop the exhaust down like I did with the Saab?
Alternatively use a few big 'splodges' of Stixall to hold the shield in place, it's brilliant stuff but try to put it away from the boxes amzn.to/3WeW2F8
My heat shield is riveted on. None have corroded but rattles anyway
Before and after. What's the actual sound this is making? When does it make it? What does it sound like after it's fixed? Anything else for diy is only part of the picture.
Huh?