Excellent video, The info about low air flow at high speed was great. I've seen so many videos telling me to do the snorkel swap, but you are the first to explain why. Definitely subbed
Great vedio, I just got the snokle in do you have the length of your custom add on as you showed how it was in the perfictc spot mounted in the vedio. The rest is straight forward. Could duck taped card board be used if you can't get the material you used. If it's not getting wet I would think making 1 and a spare out of duck taped card board should work ? Your input would be appreciated.
That is a great and pretty easy to do mod, depending on what bike you have and other mods already done to it.... OH man, gonna have to spend a lot of time going over my bike now and writing a whole new list........
Hmm my 2012 KLX 250 does not have a snorkel, although otherwise the airbox is identical. The bike was modified by the dealer with an FMF exhaust. Apparently they took the snorkel out too. The bike does not transition from idle to power smoothly, but I have not modified the carb other than to clean the jets with carb cleaner. Also other riders report a puff of black smoke when I really get on the gas, possibly indicating running rich because it does not smoke under any other condition, only at full throttle. No smoke at startup even cold, no smoke under normal operation, only smokes a bit under full throttle usually when I am trying to get to highway speed as fast as it will go. I asked my wife about the color and she says more grey-black than blue-black in her opinion, and it is a whiff more than a cloud. (She follows me along on a TW 200. This is a 1996 TW and it does not smoke at all and transitions from idle without hesitation, is all stock and has 5 times the km on it, but it isn't as fast by a stretch. I have also opened that carb to clean the jets but also all I did to it.) I am also suspicious the dealer entered the carb because one of the bowl screws was slightly damaged. Could they have re-jetted it? I don't know how to tell what jet it's got and what it should have. Anyway I did take it apart but all I did was clean the jets and spray some carb cleaner around for fun, but the carb was pretty clean other than the pilot jet which was plugged (from sitting over the winter, my bad). The fuel screw appears to still be factory sealed, or was re-sealed, although I don't know why even a dealer would re-seal it. What should I do? Get a snorkel? Re-jet it? Remove the seal and get an adjustable fuel screw? Run without the airbox cover? The main thing I want to do is get a smooth transition from idle to power. But getting rid of the smoke would be nice too especially if it is running rich. The way it is running now it idles fine and it runs under power fine but going from idle to power you have to treat it like a 2-stroke. Rev-rev-rev and go. I think I'd also like a 13 front sprocket. Since the KLM 250 doesn't have great low end to start with, and 6th gear is way high the motor really can't use it except for highway cruising but I think it could easily cruise at 1/14 higher RPM, what do you think of a 13 on the front? Or should one go larger on the back? Or just leave it?
Sounds like the jets might be a little too big, try messing with the air fuel mixture screw. Mark where the screw is set at and turn it clockwise to lean it out and counter clockwise to richen. I would turn it a 1/8 of a turn clockwise to lean it a little bit and see if it helps. If not just put it back to the mark where it was
@@natesv04 Thanks for the reply. This question is a little dated now, what I ended up doing in the intervening year was installing an All-Balls carb kit, which did nothing, and then finally replacing the whole carburetor with a new Niche, which was the same price as the All-Balls kit or there abouts. With the new Niche carb it runs perfectly, although it took some fiddling to make sure there were no air leaks because it is a little smaller outside diameter than the original. Saves 10 cents of aluminum I guess.
For this? I took it off a while back because the glue on the tape kept melting...needed to use something higher temp rated. It doesn't seem to matter that much, except maybe a little at very high speeds (70mph+)
Hi man. This is really true. With the stock snorkel I did 134 km/h, with the kdx snorkel, I barely did 128 km/h. The torque is indeed improved, but the max speed went down. With your mod, did you manage to get the max speed as you had with the stock snorkel or not? I will try to make the extension, but I am not sure is it worth or not. Any thougts?
I've actually only ever done a top speed on the bike once...which is about 170kph. it's a little scary, and not exactly legal anywhere around here....so not really important. Only empirical effect was about .2kpl better fuel economy with the extension.
170 is insane for this bikes. I have EFI version which is restricted on the rpms, but anyway it is enough to go with 130kph max speed. So are you suggesting that making this mod (snorkel extension) is not worth the effort?
+Riste Trninkov No, not really. The carb version is restricted on rpms just the same, this test was done with 15/42 sprokets. My bike is heavily modified, with 351 displacement, porting, larger valves, a much larger exhaust, larger throttle, high flow intake... The extension is one of those things like the crankcase breather mod, or plug indexing, that matters but only by small percentage points. +5% is not a really noticeable change, and it's hard to be certain without a lot of testing, as just humidity can mean +/-3% from day to day. There are better ways to get power, but it certainly helps to extend the snorkel.
Tested yesterday, just an update, if you allow. With kdx snorkel (no extension) on the same road, at the same time at day, max speed 137kmh.. so I think the weather is a huge factor, and of course the wind. For info, my bike is stock with kdx200 snorkel, and that's it. And for EFI there is a simple mod, to wire up (bridge) the clutch connector. With this restriction the bike go only 105-110kmh, with bridging, the computer thinks it is still in neutral and allow the higher rpms. Ride safe
hey there I got a klx 250 and I can't seem to get the front end up I want some decent top end but I still Wana be able to wheelie it in like second gear any gearing you guys would recommend?
This video has a lot of bad information. the reason why your snorkel is there so it's two purposes 1 it eliminates intake vacuum noise. two you have a CV carburetor. you have to have a certain amount of vacuum Inside the Box in order for the CV slide to fully raise itself at high speed . you modify that box whith stock jetting especially stock exhaust you are defeating any purpose of modifying that box. if you modify the Box you have to modify jetting and your exhaust. plus that snorkel does not allow air to be rammed into it. Learn more about CV carburetors and how they work before putting out bad information.
My klx250s is just run in, I tryed it without the snorkel and it went great. Im just worried it mite be to lean and I don't want to burn the piston. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.
Excellent video, The info about low air flow at high speed was great. I've seen so many videos telling me to do the snorkel swap, but you are the first to explain why. Definitely subbed
Thanks so much for posting this! Excellent and well explained mod that I will certainly mimic in short order.
Good video! Looking forward to the end result.
Great vedio, I just got the snokle in do you have the length of your custom add on as you showed how it was in the perfictc spot mounted in the vedio. The rest is straight forward. Could duck taped card board be used if you can't get the material you used. If it's not getting wet I would think making 1 and a spare out of duck taped card board should work ? Your input would be appreciated.
What is the snorkel upgrad what bike do I need one from and what year please thank you
That is a great and pretty easy to do mod, depending on what bike you have and other mods already done to it.... OH man, gonna have to spend a lot of time going over my bike now and writing a whole new list........
Hmm my 2012 KLX 250 does not have a snorkel, although otherwise the airbox is identical. The bike was modified by the dealer with an FMF exhaust. Apparently they took the snorkel out too.
The bike does not transition from idle to power smoothly, but I have not modified the carb other than to clean the jets with carb cleaner. Also other riders report a puff of black smoke when I really get on the gas, possibly indicating running rich because it does not smoke under any other condition, only at full throttle. No smoke at startup even cold, no smoke under normal operation, only smokes a bit under full throttle usually when I am trying to get to highway speed as fast as it will go. I asked my wife about the color and she says more grey-black than blue-black in her opinion, and it is a whiff more than a cloud. (She follows me along on a TW 200. This is a 1996 TW and it does not smoke at all and transitions from idle without hesitation, is all stock and has 5 times the km on it, but it isn't as fast by a stretch. I have also opened that carb to clean the jets but also all I did to it.)
I am also suspicious the dealer entered the carb because one of the bowl screws was slightly damaged. Could they have re-jetted it? I don't know how to tell what jet it's got and what it should have. Anyway I did take it apart but all I did was clean the jets and spray some carb cleaner around for fun, but the carb was pretty clean other than the pilot jet which was plugged (from sitting over the winter, my bad). The fuel screw appears to still be factory sealed, or was re-sealed, although I don't know why even a dealer would re-seal it.
What should I do? Get a snorkel? Re-jet it? Remove the seal and get an adjustable fuel screw? Run without the airbox cover? The main thing I want to do is get a smooth transition from idle to power. But getting rid of the smoke would be nice too especially if it is running rich. The way it is running now it idles fine and it runs under power fine but going from idle to power you have to treat it like a 2-stroke. Rev-rev-rev and go.
I think I'd also like a 13 front sprocket. Since the KLM 250 doesn't have great low end to start with, and 6th gear is way high the motor really can't use it except for highway cruising but I think it could easily cruise at 1/14 higher RPM, what do you think of a 13 on the front? Or should one go larger on the back? Or just leave it?
Sounds like the jets might be a little too big, try messing with the air fuel mixture screw. Mark where the screw is set at and turn it clockwise to lean it out and counter clockwise to richen. I would turn it a 1/8 of a turn clockwise to lean it a little bit and see if it helps. If not just put it back to the mark where it was
@@natesv04 Thanks for the reply. This question is a little dated now, what I ended up doing in the intervening year was installing an All-Balls carb kit, which did nothing, and then finally replacing the whole carburetor with a new Niche, which was the same price as the All-Balls kit or there abouts. With the new Niche carb it runs perfectly, although it took some fiddling to make sure there were no air leaks because it is a little smaller outside diameter than the original. Saves 10 cents of aluminum I guess.
Duct tape never leave home without it. Good food for thought. stay safe
And the final result was......... ????? Any news?
For this? I took it off a while back because the glue on the tape kept melting...needed to use something higher temp rated. It doesn't seem to matter that much, except maybe a little at very high speeds (70mph+)
This one didn't turn out so great. More choppy than usual. Why didn't you rerecord?
I blinked and missed mod
what was the song you were using?
Do you know what year kdx220 the snorkel came out of? Or does it not matter do they all fit? Thanks
2005, but it shouldn't matter.
if i drill holes in my airbox, would i need to rejet it?
Yes
Awesome video! Cant wait to do this with mine!
Hi man. This is really true. With the stock snorkel I did 134 km/h, with the kdx snorkel, I barely did 128 km/h. The torque is indeed improved, but the max speed went down. With your mod, did you manage to get the max speed as you had with the stock snorkel or not? I will try to make the extension, but I am not sure is it worth or not. Any thougts?
I've actually only ever done a top speed on the bike once...which is about 170kph. it's a little scary, and not exactly legal anywhere around here....so not really important.
Only empirical effect was about .2kpl better fuel economy with the extension.
170 is insane for this bikes. I have EFI version which is restricted on the rpms, but anyway it is enough to go with 130kph max speed. So are you suggesting that making this mod (snorkel extension) is not worth the effort?
+Riste Trninkov No, not really. The carb version is restricted on rpms just the same, this test was done with 15/42 sprokets. My bike is heavily modified, with 351 displacement, porting, larger valves, a much larger exhaust, larger throttle, high flow intake...
The extension is one of those things like the crankcase breather mod, or plug indexing, that matters but only by small percentage points. +5% is not a really noticeable change, and it's hard to be certain without a lot of testing, as just humidity can mean +/-3% from day to day.
There are better ways to get power, but it certainly helps to extend the snorkel.
Tested yesterday, just an update, if you allow. With kdx snorkel (no extension) on the same road, at the same time at day, max speed 137kmh.. so I think the weather is a huge factor, and of course the wind. For info, my bike is stock with kdx200 snorkel, and that's it. And for EFI there is a simple mod, to wire up (bridge) the clutch connector. With this restriction the bike go only 105-110kmh, with bridging, the computer thinks it is still in neutral and allow the higher rpms. Ride safe
hey there I got a klx 250 and I can't seem to get the front end up I want some decent top end but I still Wana be able to wheelie it in like second gear any gearing you guys would recommend?
+SM GANG 13/47, that should do it.
+Adventures in Real Life awesome thx
I may try with alum sheet
This video has a lot of bad information. the reason why your snorkel is there so it's two purposes 1 it eliminates intake vacuum noise. two you have a CV carburetor. you have to have a certain amount of vacuum Inside the Box in order for the CV slide to fully raise itself at high speed . you modify that box whith stock jetting especially stock exhaust you are defeating any purpose of modifying that box. if you modify the Box you have to modify jetting and your exhaust. plus that snorkel does not allow air to be rammed into it. Learn more about CV carburetors and how they work before putting out bad information.
My klx250s is just run in, I tryed it without the snorkel and it went great. Im just worried it mite be to lean and I don't want to burn the piston. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.
Brett Jones re jet the carb and/or remove the plug from the air fuel mixture screw...
And also open up the exhaust ..
I wonder how well this would work on efi
It'll work fine, I'm doing it on my 2018 KLX350.
KDX200, part no 14073-1577 ~$35...
Best mod. Take the damn lid off. If u dont like it, put it back on. Spending $ on another snorkel isnt bright
I leave stuff stock for the most part seams not much to gain from these mods .
Podno zulo only need a new exhaust