Thank you for this video! I replaced everything but the abs module for my truck which is Farley expensive for me, and I took it in and they said I’d need to take it to a dealership and use their high tech scanners to fix it! This did the trick
Dear lord I’ve been looking everywhere for a video on a manual ABS module bleed. I’ve changed everything on my ‘05 f150 brake system except booster & ABS module. Really thank you
Well that's great. I went nuts trying to figure mine out. I also needed to compress the cylinder on the new caliper which I didn't do when I installed it in a rush to get it on.
That’d be nice. If you keep putting them up, people will watch. If you put out quality in depth how to videos that are make specific, fans of that make will find them. And you could end up with a part sponsorship. There’s no one doing how to’s on ford F-series trucks. Or Toyotas (not good ones anyway). Like that BLEEPIN JEEP channel. They do really in-depth how to repairs and fabrications etc... on their own daily drivers and trail rigs.
Yes it did! I bought the truck a year ago needing lots of brake parts and lines. I had the spongy brakes and kept bleeding them at the caliper. I thought I would have to get the scanner and do the ABS that way but this is so much simpler!! thanks for saving me all that time and money!
WOW this is great! on my car I also have a ABS unit with no bleeder valve on it. just to make sure I understand the procedure correctly: 1. press brake pedal 2. unscrew the brake line on the top of the unit (keep pedal pressed ?? ) 3. tighten the brake lines back 4. take foot of the brake 5. repeat for everyone of the 4 brake lines Please confirm or correct this as I have been losing my mind with this issue!! Thank you!
Yes. Pump the brakes up then hold down by someone or brace it with a 2x4. Loosen the line till fluid and air flow. Then tighten quickly. Pump the brakes back up and see how they feel. Repeat until theres no air and the fluids clean and you have solid pedal.
If you bleed the abs do you have to bleed the calipers afterwards i changed all 4 calipers and have bleed brakes at calipers peddle goes to floor going to try the abs bleed next I'm no mechanic just a dumb welder
I have a 2004 f250. changed rear calipers roters and pads. bled brakes changed master cylinder. it builds up but then goes to floor. I hope this fixes mine. i will try the abs bleeding.
I have a 2001 Expedition, replaced the master cylinder 3 years ago. then replaced the ABS module because the ABS light stayed on. Got it all fixed, but about a year later the master cylinder started loosing fluid, it started running out about every 6 months, no leaks can be found, everything is dry and dusty on the ABS, master cylinder, wheel cylinders. Any ideas? I replaced the master cylinder again because the pedal would slowly go away even after bleeding the brakes, when brakes were applied softly. After putting on the second master cylinder and changing all the dot 3 fluid in the system, brakes are now worse. Pedal falls when applied hard or soft. No ABS lights present. Going to try bleeding the ABS system according to this example next to see if I can get my pedal back and to check for air there. Will also check the test ports on the ABS module to see if there is too much travel at the bypass valves. I am wondering if the module has failed again but just not sending a trouble code this time?. I am also just wondering if there is a secret place this brake fluid is going that I may be missing?
Did you ck the distribution boxes where the lines split for leaks. Theres one on top of the rear axle. Or a rusted line with a slow leak. Did you install a new caliper or do a brake job and not bleed down the cylinders?
Did you check you brake booster? Sometimes they leak out the back of the master cylinder where the rod pushes into it and the vacuum will pull it into the brake booster.
Man I bought a $200 bypass kit because of this I didn't think of bleeding it out just figured it was shot I should have atleast tryed this first my pedal goes to the floor even after replacing master cylinder and bleeding at the calipers
I have the same problem, my question is, I need to disconnect battery or is safe to open the lines from the top with the battery connected? Sometimes when doing bleeding the pedal brake gets real hard and need to start the vehicle once and while.
You can bleed with BATTERY connected .when the engine is running the power booster is on behind the master cylinder. But you shouldn't need the truck running to bleed the abs module.
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains tanks for the advice, I disconnected the battery , it worked fine for me, I started bleeding first the line coming from master cylinder driver side, then I did the lines on top and side of module, it turns out that the air was on the left side line of the master cylinder, bleeding after that the four wheels starting from the back far side and last to the front side, everything works perfect, the only bad thing, is that still coming back just the ABS light, but I turned out after driving for an hour, but I came back when I stopped the car, any solution for that?
@therockkkkher yes they do have, but you have to spend $250 bucks for the Autel scaner with autobleed function, however doing my research the ABS pump and module, need to have an autobleed function as well, mine doesn't have it, I learned how to bleed everything manually 😎
What year is this truck? I have 2000 F350 with symptoms like you desribe. New rotors, calipers and brake shoes all around truck. Also bled the system and replaced the master cylinder and the PS pump. I"m about to rip my hair out with this truck :(
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains mine is totally random. it'll be perfect all afternoon and then all of a sudden drops quickly within about an 1" of the floor. Still work but pretty nerve-racking, gotta push the last 1" really hard to get slowed down. Ya just never know when it's gonna happen. Seems to be related to the power steering also because I can fairly reliably get it to happen on purpose when I turn the steering wheel most all the left or right. When it does happen it's typically fine on the next pedal push.
You have an internal leak? Place a screwdriver on top of the test port. Have someone press the brakes slowly. If the screwdriver rises you have a leak.
suncoast trains when I insert an Allen into the ports, I have one port with excessive travel which according to the forums states the unit is bad. But I’ll definitely try the your bleed method. Thanks again!
Yes. It took a lot of bleeding of the system, over and over. Finally, I got all the air out. I'm not a mechanic, but I've done plenty of brake jobs over the years. Never had this much trouble getting rid of the air. Thank you for your video and the follow up.
hi there. I have just changed my ABS pump on my vehicle as the warning light stayed on. I bleed the brakes until no air in the tube. when I pump the brakes with engine off, i get a firm hard pedal. when i run the engine, the brakes work but if i keep my foot on the pedal it sinks slowly to the floor. Could this be air still in the ABS pump or something else i.e Brake master cylinder?? cheers PJ
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains abs light went on and brakes kind of feel spongy, but don't sink so probably not the master cylinder, I bled the brakes seemed to help a little bit but abs light still on. Brake pads look brand new condition.
@therockkkkher Turned our to be the front right wheel speed sensor. Bled brakes no air came out, brake pads were cheap replaced with some good ones, truck stops good now.
Actually what you really do is there is a scan tool and it cycles the ABS modulators if you ever introduce air into an ABS system . You are not supposed to crack those lines open
Apparently you can ... If assume the fast easy way is with the tool and this is the slow shade tree way so id think both corrct it just depends on whether you're doing it in your driveway or in shop by the hour.
@@mikeyone76 I have a scan tool that bleeds abs it was $100 shipped . It can be upgraded more with downloads. There are quite a few scan tools that do abs for about $100 now.
If you go buy the correct diagnostic software you can do a service bleed without cracking brake lines. You activate the abs pump via laptop and bleed the system one caliper at a time. The money you wasted on a new master cylinder could’ve paid a shop to do a service bleed on the entire system. This is one of the downfalls of not knowing what you’re doing and trying to save a dollar and it ends up costing you more.
How do you bleed air out of a system like the brakes without cracking a line...how do you plan to get the air out is there some magic that happens with the scan tool that lets the air out of the system without cracking a line or brake bleeder valve.
@therockkkkher I have one it it cycles the abs pump then you go to the caliper and crack the bleed . The scan tool simply runs the abs/accumulator motor.
Finally a video on this without using a scan tool
Yep
Thank you for this video! I replaced everything but the abs module for my truck which is Farley expensive for me, and I took it in and they said I’d need to take it to a dealership and use their high tech scanners to fix it! This did the trick
Great job! Simple hydraulics!
I'm going to do this on my car . Avoiding the garage bill as much as possible.
Yes sir
You don't do these videos often... Thank you very much then to take the time to help others (like me)!!! Again, tks a lot. Have a good day .
No problem.. I might do some more soon.
I did the same thing (had the master cyl. Run dry ) and have the same deal (pedal going to floor) . I have an 05 Buick . Thank you!!!!!!
Yes sir!
Awesome!! I needed this!!
Did not want to throw my Audi in shop for this!!
Very exspensive!!!
An Audi? What year?
Thank you for posting this. I am trying to bleed the brakes on my 2002 Mustang and I can’t get the air out of the module. I will do this next.
@@rantsfromtheroad2055 great!! Let me know how it goes!
Dear lord I’ve been looking everywhere for a video on a manual ABS module bleed. I’ve changed everything on my ‘05 f150 brake system except booster & ABS module. Really thank you
Well that's great. I went nuts trying to figure mine out. I also needed to compress the cylinder on the new caliper which I didn't do when I installed it in a rush to get it on.
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this.
You’re awesome
No problem.. maybe this will get a million views!
That’d be nice.
If you keep putting them up, people will watch.
If you put out quality in depth how to videos that are make specific, fans of that make will find them. And you could end up with a part sponsorship.
There’s no one doing how to’s on ford F-series trucks. Or Toyotas (not good ones anyway).
Like that BLEEPIN JEEP channel.
They do really in-depth how to repairs and fabrications etc... on their own daily drivers and trail rigs.
Thank you! 👍🏼🙏🏼
thanks for this video!! been trying to fix my brakes with the same symptoms. going to try it now!!
Yes it did! I bought the truck a year ago needing lots of brake parts and lines. I had the spongy brakes and kept bleeding them at the caliper. I thought I would have to get the scanner and do the ABS that way but this is so much simpler!! thanks for saving me all that time and money!
Awesome!
That might be my problem. My brakes are kind of spongy caused the abs light to come on. That's the only problem with the truck
I love your video You should make one where you bleed The unit with one that has a bleeder valve in it
WOW this is great! on my car I also have a ABS unit with no bleeder valve on it.
just to make sure I understand the procedure correctly:
1. press brake pedal
2. unscrew the brake line on the top of the unit (keep pedal pressed ?? )
3. tighten the brake lines back
4. take foot of the brake
5. repeat for everyone of the 4 brake lines
Please confirm or correct this as I have been losing my mind with this issue!!
Thank you!
Yes. Pump the brakes up then hold down by someone or brace it with a 2x4. Loosen the line till fluid and air flow. Then tighten quickly. Pump the brakes back up and see how they feel. Repeat until theres no air and the fluids clean and you have solid pedal.
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains is that the return line back to the rear breaks?
@@grampadad should be one to the front brakes and one to to the back brakes. Do one and see how it feels
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains while I’m unscrewing the abs brake line
The brake pedal has to be pressed down correct?
until I tighten the abs screw again
@Rikco-suave yes the pressure will push out the air in the lines
Thank you,going to try it
High quality scanner to bleed the abs. You cant do it manually. It will still have air. The procedure is easy.
Really high quality. Like 5k.
Wow very smart thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Yes sir !glad it helped!
Super video . Thank you
Your very welcome!!
If you bleed the abs do you have to bleed the calipers afterwards i changed all 4 calipers and have bleed brakes at calipers peddle goes to floor going to try the abs bleed next I'm no mechanic just a dumb welder
@joesummers9864 try it and see how it does. If there's a lot of air you may have too.
I have a 2004 f250. changed rear calipers roters and pads. bled brakes changed master cylinder. it builds up but then goes to floor. I hope this fixes mine. i will try the abs bleeding.
Results?
Thanks.
Yes sir!
I have a 2001 Expedition, replaced the master cylinder 3 years ago. then replaced the ABS module because the ABS light stayed on. Got it all fixed, but about a year later the master cylinder started loosing fluid, it started running out about every 6 months, no leaks can be found, everything is dry and dusty on the ABS, master cylinder, wheel cylinders. Any ideas? I replaced the master cylinder again because the pedal would slowly go away even after bleeding the brakes, when brakes were applied softly. After putting on the second master cylinder and changing all the dot 3 fluid in the system, brakes are now worse. Pedal falls when applied hard or soft. No ABS lights present. Going to try bleeding the ABS system according to this example next to see if I can get my pedal back and to check for air there. Will also check the test ports on the ABS module to see if there is too much travel at the bypass valves. I am wondering if the module has failed again but just not sending a trouble code this time?. I am also just wondering if there is a secret place this brake fluid is going that I may be missing?
Did you ck the distribution boxes where the lines split for leaks. Theres one on top of the rear axle. Or a rusted line with a slow leak. Did you install a new caliper or do a brake job and not bleed down the cylinders?
Did you check you brake booster? Sometimes they leak out the back of the master cylinder where the rod pushes into it and the vacuum will pull it into the brake booster.
Man I bought a $200 bypass kit because of this I didn't think of bleeding it out just figured it was shot I should have atleast tryed this first my pedal goes to the floor even after replacing master cylinder and bleeding at the calipers
Did you fix it?
@MikeSsuncoasttrains the bypass kit fixed it but I should have just done what you did
Gr8 Job man!!! and Thanks!!!
Yes sir
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains Ain't no telling how many lives you've saved with this one🛠️
Yes sir!
forscan or a scanner tool with abs feature
Do you loosen the bottom screw or the line to bleed?
Just Crack open the line and the air will bleed out.
Is this the same process as a manual brake bleed? Just on the abs not the caliper?
Pretty much.
I have the same problem, my question is, I need to disconnect battery or is safe to open the lines from the top with the battery connected? Sometimes when doing bleeding the pedal brake gets real hard and need to start the vehicle once and while.
You can bleed with BATTERY connected .when the engine is running the power booster is on behind the master cylinder. But you shouldn't need the truck running to bleed the abs module.
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains tanks for the advice, I disconnected the battery , it worked fine for me, I started bleeding first the line coming from master cylinder driver side, then I did the lines on top and side of module, it turns out that the air was on the left side line of the master cylinder, bleeding after that the four wheels starting from the back far side and last to the front side, everything works perfect, the only bad thing, is that still coming back just the ABS light, but I turned out after driving for an hour, but I came back when I stopped the car, any solution for that?
@therockkkkher yes they do have, but you have to spend $250 bucks for the Autel scaner with autobleed function, however doing my research the ABS pump and module, need to have an autobleed function as well, mine doesn't have it, I learned how to bleed everything manually 😎
Need to do this to my 03 f250 its druving my crazy but i have to disconnect the batteries can it be done with truck off? Or it has to be running?
You must pump up the brakes. It's easier if it's running.
What year is this truck? I have 2000 F350 with symptoms like you desribe. New rotors, calipers and brake shoes all around truck. Also bled the system and replaced the master cylinder and the PS pump. I"m about to rip my hair out with this truck :(
2003.. yep. Bleed the module as I did.
suncoast trains was your pedal going to the floor everytime or just randomly?
It was every time. Spongy but to the floor every time.
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains mine is totally random. it'll be perfect all afternoon and then all of a sudden drops quickly within about an 1" of the floor. Still work but pretty nerve-racking, gotta push the last 1" really hard to get slowed down. Ya just never know when it's gonna happen.
Seems to be related to the power steering also because I can fairly reliably get it to happen on purpose when I turn the steering wheel most all the left or right. When it does happen it's typically fine on the next pedal push.
Did it stay correct? Did you have any issues with the master cylinder leaking?
No sir, the reason this happened is because I let my master cylinder go dry. It was ok. All good.
Do you think it’s possible to thread the test ports and screw in a bolt to prevent the bypass from opening to fix a soft pedal?
You have an internal leak? Place a screwdriver on top of the test port. Have someone press the brakes slowly. If the screwdriver rises you have a leak.
suncoast trains I’ll definitely try that!
suncoast trains when I insert an Allen into the ports, I have one port with excessive travel which according to the forums states the unit is bad. But I’ll definitely try the your bleed method. Thanks again!
@@dad3562 yeah try it but if the seals are shot its bad.i dont think its serviceable iether.
I think you have to flush using scan tool every 2 yrs
How many times did you have to bleed the abs module?
I've done it four times, and the braked pedal still drifts to the floor.
Did you bleed all the wheel cylinders first?
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains Yes. I also put in a new master cylinder and bled that.
Did you figure it out
Yes. It took a lot of bleeding of the system, over and over. Finally, I got all the air out.
I'm not a mechanic, but I've done plenty of brake jobs over the years.
Never had this much trouble getting rid of the air.
Thank you for your video and the follow up.
@@scottstewart8677 yes sir
hi there. I have just changed my ABS pump on my vehicle as the warning light stayed on. I bleed the brakes until no air in the tube. when I pump the brakes with engine off, i get a firm hard pedal. when i run the engine, the brakes work but if i keep my foot on the pedal it sinks slowly to the floor. Could this be air still in the ABS pump or something else i.e Brake master cylinder?? cheers PJ
Bleed all 4 calipers.
Leak somewhere
did you have a abs light come on too by chance??
No. After I did this I also needed to compress the cylinders in the caliper. There was air in there also.
Thanks I will try this
Yeah.. what's happening with your brakes?
@@MikeSsuncoasttrains abs light went on and brakes kind of feel spongy, but don't sink so probably not the master cylinder, I bled the brakes seemed to help a little bit but abs light still on. Brake pads look brand new condition.
@therockkkkher Turned our to be the front right wheel speed sensor. Bled brakes no air came out, brake pads were cheap replaced with some good ones, truck stops good now.
Hope this works. Would like to get back to using my car instead of my girlfriends car with her girly plates lol
How do you check those valves?
Theres a test valve on top of the abs module. Press it with a small screwdriver. If it goes down theres a problem.
👍
පට්ට
What kind of car is it?
It says it.. 2003 f250
MY GOD MAN! Why would you ever attach a ratchet strap to brake lines?
Lolll.. you've never installed metal brake lines where you have to bend them around everything. No problems!
Actually what you really do is there is a scan tool and it cycles the ABS modulators if you ever introduce air into an ABS system . You are not supposed to crack those lines open
Apparently you can ... If assume the fast easy way is with the tool and this is the slow shade tree way so id think both corrct it just depends on whether you're doing it in your driveway or in shop by the hour.
Some of us can’t afford that abs tool. So what choice do we have?
@@mikeyone76 I have a scan tool that bleeds abs it was $100 shipped . It can be upgraded more with downloads. There are quite a few scan tools that do abs for about $100 now.
@@yerwrng They don't work for older ABS units
If you go buy the correct diagnostic software you can do a service bleed without cracking brake lines. You activate the abs pump via laptop and bleed the system one caliper at a time. The money you wasted on a new master cylinder could’ve paid a shop to do a service bleed on the entire system. This is one of the downfalls of not knowing what you’re doing and trying to save a dollar and it ends up costing you more.
How do you bleed air out of a system like the brakes without cracking a line...how do you plan to get the air out is there some magic that happens with the scan tool that lets the air out of the system without cracking a line or brake bleeder valve.
@therockkkkher I have one it it cycles the abs pump then you go to the caliper and crack the bleed . The scan tool simply runs the abs/accumulator motor.
@therockkkkher yeah it was off eBay it was a foxwell nt 630 plus and was only $103 . There's even cheaper than that they aren't really expensive.
@therockkkkher With my unit you just let it cycle the abs pump and go to each caliper and open the bleed .
holy shit this is absolutely NOT the way to bleed your abs system 🤣🤣🤣 get a vacuum bleeder to pull fluid through the brake system to each wheel
65000 people who viewed this video and used the method don't care. It's just bleeding out some air. No big deal.