Great content ! Wish I could join you guys out there, I am stuck in Vermont...lol I run a 395 XP with a 32 inch Bar on the 450 acre family farm for 20 years now, but I've been involved with Logging and Firewood work most of my life. I am pretty sure my saw would perform out there in the bigger timber. I am mostly into old growth Red Oak, Pine, Hemlock, and Birch for Logs, and taking the dead stuff for firewood.
Greeting from Northern California. Yes...the 395 is a great saw. Plenty of power for stumping! Anyways, thanks for being a part of the channel, and stay safe out there in Vermont.
Thanks for explaining why you shave the bark on these redwoods. Do you have a special technique when making the face cut to gauge the angle of the second cut to meet exactly on target with the first cut, without a dutchman?
I've been wondering what technique for that too! (not that I plan to try anytime soon) beautiful perfection. I've been watching men in timber my whole life, much respect.
There is really no substitute for practice when it come to matching up cuts. Even with practice it's hard to be perfect every time, because of all the variations in terrain that force a guy to be in different positions all the time. I can suggest that if a guy is going to be a little off on the far side , when meeting the bottom cut to the top cut, it is better to be a little under your top cut. That way you can just knock it out with your axe. Versus matching up with your top cut to soon , wich leaves a Dutchmen . That's harder to deal with. Because you have to reach in with your bar and fix it. Versus a couple wacks with your axe. Long story short if your a little off, better to be off a little low, then a little high.
Normally cutting it flush or slightly above the face cut is best. On a Jack tree or a hard wedging tree it is not a bad idea to cut an inch or two above the face cut. This gives a little more wedging or jacking power and can make it slightly easier to lift.
Dan, I note that you turn off the saw a lot during the vids. Is that to protect the sound of the cam? Safety issue? Saw wear? Thx....(just wanna' make sure I'm not missing something....)
Start with the corner you can see and try to visualize the angle to the corner you can't see... if your going to error... go low ...usually knocks out and is fine... coming up to high is harder to fix
@@norcaltimberfaller1943 Please correct me if I'm wrong but, I thought the cut you showed here was a modified Humboldt. I enjoy your channel and appreciate your hard work, I am just trying to figure out from what I was taught, thankyou very much!!!
I use the humboldt cut most of the time. The reason is that it is better to remove the face from the stump. A standard or conventional cut removes wood from the actual log portion of the tree. It needs to either be "squared up" or measured with more trim. Either way there is some wood lost. It is not a huge deal to choose a standard cut over a Humboldt. It is just expected that a timber faller will use Humboldt face cuts in the area I work. I work in Humboldt County by the way .
@@norcaltimberfaller1943 is there also an issue with one type of cut will make the tree fall closer to the stump and another type will make the tree bounce off the cut and shoot forward? or am I on the wrong track here.
You are correct. You can use a "steep snipe" to drop the butt fast and close to the stump. A standard cut tends to slide the tree forward a little. A Humboldt with a steep snipe tends to drop the butt close to the stump.
@@Jimo225 If you cut a narrow face the tree tips over and snaps off when the face closes making the tree, or branch, jump out. A more open face allows the tree to hit the ground before it lets go keeping the log closer to the stump. I have been a tree climber for 38 years and use these techniques daily on and off the ground.
Mmmm... sorry to hear you did not find anything instructional in that video... I have plenty of other videos with instructional type content since that one did not please you...
The cutting technique is very detailed, and your cuts are absolutely perfect. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks!
Great content ! Wish I could join you guys out there, I am stuck in Vermont...lol I run a 395 XP with a 32 inch Bar on the 450 acre family farm for 20 years now, but I've been involved with Logging and Firewood work most of my life. I am pretty sure my saw would perform out there in the bigger timber. I am mostly into old growth Red Oak, Pine, Hemlock, and Birch for Logs, and taking the dead stuff for firewood.
Greeting from Northern California. Yes...the 395 is a great saw. Plenty of power for stumping! Anyways, thanks for being a part of the channel, and stay safe out there in Vermont.
@@norcaltimberfaller1943 Looking at the 592 XP next, it looks pretty badass.
Yes....I really like the 592. Very smooth....very good stumping power! This is the first one I have owned and I love it!
nice cut feller!
Great content. Keep it up!
Awesome vids mate. Can’t believe you don’t have more followers.
Thanks
Man you make it look so easy! I just found your channel as well. Keep up the the good work
Thanks for the compliment. I am glad you are finding the videos useful .
Thanks for explaining why you shave the bark on these redwoods. Do you have a special technique when making the face cut to gauge the angle of the second cut to meet exactly on target with the first cut, without a dutchman?
I've been wondering what technique for that too! (not that I plan to try anytime soon) beautiful perfection. I've been watching men in timber my whole life, much respect.
There is really no substitute for practice when it come to matching up cuts. Even with practice it's hard to be perfect every time, because of all the variations in terrain that force a guy to be in different positions all the time. I can suggest that if a guy is going to be a little off on the far side , when meeting the bottom cut to the top cut, it is better to be a little under your top cut. That way you can just knock it out with your axe. Versus matching up with your top cut to soon , wich leaves a Dutchmen . That's harder to deal with. Because you have to reach in with your bar and fix it. Versus a couple wacks with your axe. Long story short if your a little off, better to be off a little low, then a little high.
Practice.
@@norcaltimberfaller1943 Thanks
I like how you sight in the bottom face cut to match the top before you start, also starting more towards the center than on the edge,
Hi everyone. It looks like this channel is about to hit 100 subscribers ! I just want to say welcome aboard and thankyou so much!
And 10 months later you've cracked a thousand.
Keep it up!!
When you make your back cut, are you cutting 1" or 2" above where your hinge wood will be or are you cutting parallel to the hinge wood?
Thanks
Normally cutting it flush or slightly above the face cut is best. On a Jack tree or a hard wedging tree it is not a bad idea to cut an inch or two above the face cut. This gives a little more wedging or jacking power and can make it slightly easier to lift.
@@norcaltimberfaller1943what XP saw is that? That thing rips!
😊looks good thanks😊
Your welcome☺
Dan, I note that you turn off the saw a lot during the vids. Is that to protect the sound of the cam? Safety issue? Saw wear? Thx....(just wanna' make sure I'm not missing something....)
Just to make sure the words are coming through clearly....much harder to do when the saw is idling.
Great videos man! Just found your channel and had to subscribe, keep up the great work 👍🏼
Thanks for being a new subscriber. Happy to have you on board !
Where I struggle the most right now is lining up that 2nd face cut with the 1st. Got any tips for visualizing that so it tracks the way yours does?
Start with the corner you can see and try to visualize the angle to the corner you can't see... if your going to error... go low ...usually knocks out and is fine... coming up to high is harder to fix
Good video. No BS and not really a how to video, just a “this is the humboldt face cut”, and now everyone knows how you do it
Thanks, I appreciate the good feed back.
excatly..no bs.
@@norcaltimberfaller1943 Please correct me if I'm wrong but, I thought the cut you showed here was a modified Humboldt. I enjoy your channel and appreciate your hard work, I am just trying to figure out from what I was taught, thankyou very much!!!
572xp ?
I believe that is the 572 in that video
you didn't explain why and when you would use the humboldt cut
I use the humboldt cut most of the time. The reason is that it is better to remove the face from the stump. A standard or conventional cut removes wood from the actual log portion of the tree. It needs to either be "squared up" or measured with more trim. Either way there is some wood lost. It is not a huge deal to choose a standard cut over a Humboldt. It is just expected that a timber faller will use Humboldt face cuts in the area I work. I work in Humboldt County by the way .
@@norcaltimberfaller1943 is there also an issue with one type of cut will make the tree fall closer to the stump and another type will make the tree bounce off the cut and shoot forward? or am I on the wrong track here.
You are correct. You can use a "steep snipe" to drop the butt fast and close to the stump. A standard cut tends to slide the tree forward a little. A Humboldt with a steep snipe tends to drop the butt close to the stump.
Humboldts are used to save board footage on the log. It is a timber fallers cut and there is no reason to use it otherwise.
@@Jimo225 If you cut a narrow face the tree tips over and snaps off when the face closes making the tree, or branch, jump out. A more open face allows the tree to hit the ground before it lets go keeping the log closer to the stump.
I have been a tree climber for 38 years and use these techniques daily on and off the ground.
Ahhh look at that... aint you something I thought you was gonna show us how instead of showing us how great you are? Typical..
Mmmm... sorry to hear you did not find anything instructional in that video... I have plenty of other videos with instructional type content since that one did not please you...