So, you should be figuring out that you're having multiple issues with various bolts in unrelated parts backing out. (1st) You're mentioning PB blaster.. Great stuff but once you've used it you need to thoroughly clean the area you've sprayed to completely remove the PB blaster fluid. (2) When reinstalling bolts, some are one use stretch bolts like your wheel hub center bolt.. Meaning you need to replace with new bolts.. (3) Use proper torque settings not winging it thinking its tight enough or in cases of aluminum, exceeding bolt torque specs means you've compressed the aluminum & why the bolt will eventually back out. (4) Use anti seize paste for wheel/hub bolts & only torque down to spec... Removing wheel bering hub... Do not use chisel & mallet, if you do not hve a puller assembly than remove the upright & the it to a machine shop to hve the hub bearings pressed out. Keep in mind using brute force & mallets & chisels to forcibly remove parts will deform the surrounding aluminum & thus why your components loosen & back out.. Use the specs & procedures outlined in the VAG pro manuals which are easily accessed online for a small fee.... Concerning shaving the caliper ... NO... NO... NO... The issue being your rotors re the incorrect ht depth & offset.. Brembo features technical drawings of all their rotors so you can closely match & center your rotors to your 18Z calipers.. Anyway good luck with everything but do refer to the VAG manuals & save yourself frustration & towing costs..
Thanks for the info! The bolts backing out of the manifold have done so after torquing to spec and after over torquing. I don’t believe these are stretch/TTY bolts but I could be wrong. Before reassembly I cleaned the PB blaster and CV grease in the immediate area off with brake clean. There’s still more CV grease to clean up though. As for the stretch/TTY bolts, definitely not winging it! All have been replaced with new (hub & bearing bolts), and torqued to spec as per the Bentley manual which was a torque spec, and an additional 90º or 180º turn depending on which bolt. I even cross referenced online to get multiple sources of info for these specs. Might be hard to tell in the time lapse but I did follow the torquing procedures as precisely as possible. The old hub bolt backed out because the bearing was toast. For removing the bearing, you’re right. I don’t have the proper tools, so I’m improvising. Yeah I’m not actually gonna shave the caliper but I know it’s possible to (incorrectly) get away with shaving a mm or two if needed. Ideally I’ll find wheels that fit how I want without a spacer. As for the rotor, I just wanted a rough idea of where the caliper sits. Of course I will be using a correctly spec’d rotor for this application when the time comes which I understand will affect wheel fitment/clearances slightly. Also, they’re 17Zs ;) Again thanks for the input, always open to learning!
So, you should be figuring out that you're having multiple issues with various bolts in unrelated parts backing out. (1st) You're mentioning PB blaster.. Great stuff but once you've used it you need to thoroughly clean the area you've sprayed to completely remove the PB blaster fluid. (2) When reinstalling bolts, some are one use stretch bolts like your wheel hub center bolt.. Meaning you need to replace with new bolts.. (3) Use proper torque settings not winging it thinking its tight enough or in cases of aluminum, exceeding bolt torque specs means you've compressed the aluminum & why the bolt will eventually back out. (4) Use anti seize paste for wheel/hub bolts & only torque down to spec... Removing wheel bering hub... Do not use chisel & mallet, if you do not hve a puller assembly than remove the upright & the it to a machine shop to hve the hub bearings pressed out. Keep in mind using brute force & mallets & chisels to forcibly remove parts will deform the surrounding aluminum & thus why your components loosen & back out.. Use the specs & procedures outlined in the VAG pro manuals which are easily accessed online for a small fee.... Concerning shaving the caliper ... NO... NO... NO... The issue being your rotors re the incorrect ht depth & offset.. Brembo features technical drawings of all their rotors so you can closely match & center your rotors to your 18Z calipers.. Anyway good luck with everything but do refer to the VAG manuals & save yourself frustration & towing costs..
Thanks for the info! The bolts backing out of the manifold have done so after torquing to spec and after over torquing. I don’t believe these are stretch/TTY bolts but I could be wrong. Before reassembly I cleaned the PB blaster and CV grease in the immediate area off with brake clean. There’s still more CV grease to clean up though. As for the stretch/TTY bolts, definitely not winging it! All have been replaced with new (hub & bearing bolts), and torqued to spec as per the Bentley manual which was a torque spec, and an additional 90º or 180º turn depending on which bolt. I even cross referenced online to get multiple sources of info for these specs. Might be hard to tell in the time lapse but I did follow the torquing procedures as precisely as possible. The old hub bolt backed out because the bearing was toast. For removing the bearing, you’re right. I don’t have the proper tools, so I’m improvising. Yeah I’m not actually gonna shave the caliper but I know it’s possible to (incorrectly) get away with shaving a mm or two if needed. Ideally I’ll find wheels that fit how I want without a spacer. As for the rotor, I just wanted a rough idea of where the caliper sits. Of course I will be using a correctly spec’d rotor for this application when the time comes which I understand will affect wheel fitment/clearances slightly. Also, they’re 17Zs ;) Again thanks for the input, always open to learning!