Wago 221 vs Ideal Gen II Connectors
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
- Sam takes a closer look at two of the fastest-to-fit electrical cable connectors currently on the market (January 2022). Sam uses his professional expertise as an electrician to compare the Wago 221 and Ideal Gen II connectors.
Which is the best and how do they stack up against each other?
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#connectors #Wago #Ideal - Навчання та стиль
I'm not sure if you're using different wago 221's than I am but the ones I have allow you to push conductors in without lifting the levers
You are correct Mikey, after your comment I double-checked against a few in the van, all worked in that way. Thanks for pointing that out, learn something new every day.
Sweet, I didn't know this.
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade I just learned something new too... thanks Mikey
Be great if video was updated with that information
Hi Daniel, I've looked into this before, unfortunately UA-cam doesn't give an option (not that I've found), that allows editing to be done after publishing or I would have added some text into the video explaining this.
The first day I used the wago, was the last day I used a wire nut.
Same for me. I’ve been using Wago for several years now…but I’m going to try Ideal now that I know about this product.
So u used wire nuts on the same day? Me? The day before was the last day
What do you think of the Ideals? Have you had the chance to try them out for yourself yet?
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade I have them. I dont use them for some reason. perhaps because they are harder to undo.
@@normbograham you can push the cables in without having to release the catches. 👍
Loving these vids, channel has a lot of potential 👍
Thank you. Don't forget to like and subscribe 😉. Comments on how to improve are also welcome.
Nice work. Thank You !
Thanks for taking the time to watch 👍
Great video, thanks!
Thanks for watching 👍
Thanks very much for this video! I have used many Wago lever connectors, including the larger ones for 10 g (US) wire, and really like them versus wire nuts. The main reason for bad connections using the Wago connectors for me is not making absolutely sure the wire is pushed all the way into the connector before the lever is dropped (my bad- I can't always see the wires well in the connector). However, I would very much like to try the Ideal Gen 2 lever connectors because the wire ports are opposite of the levers and they would seem to be easier to use in tighter boxes. Like others, I am not able to find a US supplier or a UK supplier willing to ship to the U.S. I also sent an email to Ideal using the email address you provided below.
I just saw small packets of the Wago lever connectors on sale at a Home Depot in Colorado. They were very expensive (versus Amazon), but it was good to see them there. The Ideal push-in connectors have been for sale for years at both Lowes and Home Depot. It seems to me that the lever action connectors will be displacing wire nuts and Ideal push-in connectors over time for many DIYers like me. Thanks again for the video.
@cryptapocalypse thank you for your kind comments, I have to admit that the Ideals are also quite hard to get hold of in the UK too, perhaps it's a distribution issue related to covid?
I'd love to know how you get on with them, if you don't have any luck via the email, please let me know and I'll get back in touch with the UK guys here to find out what's going on.
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade Thanks so much for taking the time to reply. If I don't hear from them via email in a week, I'll let you know. I hope they make their way across the pond soon. Best wishes....
Hello- Just got a reply back from Ideal via email. They referred me to their website at ideal.com. There I did a chat session there with a rep and found out that the Gen II lever connectors will not be available in the US until about June 2022. At that time, all of their US distributors should have them. Hopefully the ideal.com website will list the distributors at release.
@@cryptapocalypse thank you for the update. 👍
Since both connectors are very similar, the decision point (for me) is often the price and availability. Wago 221 have become very easy to purchase online and at many electrical supply houses...in contrast, it's much more challenging to locate the Ideal Gen II connectors. Wago 221 also seems to be priced well and consistently.
Great point! I have to agree.
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade I don't see the Ideal Gen IIs on Amazon in the US. Thanks for the review : ) -jb
@@bowersj Hi JB. Thank you for watching. You can order them by contacting ideal via email:
ideal_international@idealindustries.com
A strange way of doing it, maybe they're still trying to setup distribution in the US?
You can purchase Ideal at any Woke Home Depot or Woke Lowes
@@poppiarlin5612 Can you post a link please?
useful info, just what i need to decide today shopping… GRACIAS! saludos desde Monterrey, México 🤠✋🏼
Great, I'm glad we could help, so what did you decide on?
I use Whatever my co. gives me from the giant pile of boxes on layers of pallets in the acres of storage yard. Ive landed many boxes with nuts, wagos, ideals, all mixed together.
Good old Pick 'n' Mix
Thanks for showing the pullout strength of both. Heck I think they may both be better than traditional wire nuts!
We don't use wire nuts in the UK, I've never seen them anyway.
Though wire nuts take up less space, they inherently weaken the cable because of the twisting together. Wire nuts also make fault finding a lot more difficult and time consuming. Thanks for watching 👍
Almost anything is better than wirenuts....
In the U.S. both are certified (UL Listed) for 600 Volts. The 450 Volts is the European certification. There is also certifications, symbols printed on the side, for China and Japan. There wasn’t enough space to print 600 Volts so there is only the UL mark. This information is provided on the Sparky UA-cam channel by a manufacturer rep.
Cheers Mark. Are you talking about the Wago or Ideal?
It's confusing reading the combination of different specs on the connector body. I have some of both, and WAGO has different European ratings (450V, 32A) but US ratings of 600V, 20A. I believe Ideal has the same specs, but I don't see the US current rating on the body or the label. I could only find a 20A rating for the L2 (Gen 2) series for the US market on a sell sheet.
Here in the states, i.e. northern New England, I have NOT seen the WAGO's ( made in Germany ) connectors in HD or Lowes... The non-lever Ideals are widely available at Home Depot where I have used the 12-2 with ( 4 ) ports with excellent success, they do NOT pull apart...The Ideal blues with the locking levers is a far better design over the WAGO's hands down, however I don't believe they are available in the states yet, ironically the non-lever Ideals I use are made in the USA & are available at my local HD...
All the best,
Bill... :~)
You could try contacting Wago at www.wago.com/us/contact#wago-support-contact-anchor to find your nearest supplier.
I haven't had these Ideal connectors in my hands to actually check, but it appears that th plastic housing is not transparent making visual inspection of the wire insertions more difficult. Do you think that's correct?
Its mostly opaque but there are crystal clear windows underneath to see the cabling
If you look on UA-cam, there are some reviews of Ideal's lever connectors that have a mostly clear shell rather than the textured, translucent surface. Ideal claims that the surface reduces slipping. I don't know really. However, there is a clear window at the tip that's easy to see the wire fully inserted, but only on the side opposite the levers.
Wago has a test port on both sides they're both in the middle above the wire port. Or on one of the sides on the two slot wagos. Even on the thumbnail you can see it's the darker hole above where the wire entrance is.
Brilliant, thanks for sharing
The ideal connectors been trying to catch up to levernuts since they were introduced. Looks like they've finally made a decent product. The ideal push in connects were so hated it pretty much killed every alternative except wire nut varieties
They're liked a lot in the UK.
Yeah, it was difficult to push wire all the way into the Ideal push-in connectors --and even worse sometimes they would work themselves out with 14 wire when I was stuffing it all up into a junction box. I quit using them out of concern even though they saved a lot of time.
You mentioned accidental unlock on WAGO. Is the same true for Ideal? Or are they equally able to get the lever flipped?
The Wago catches seem to flap about/ have a few mm of movement in them even when locked down with a cable in place. The Ideals don't do that, they hold shut with no movement.
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade TY that would seem preferable, choosing the Ideal option. B-)
I read one fellow's comment that he wraps electrical tape around the Wago connectors to ensure that the levers don't accidently flip to the unlock position.
@@heronimousbrapson863 Wago replied to my question on this, their answer was:
"Hello, tape is not required due to the tension from the spring, the lever has to be fully opened to allow the conductor to come out."
You don’t need to lift to insert in Wago, but in my experience they’re a bit stiffer going in.
Cheers Tom. Yes I found that out not long after making the video. Are you a big fan of the Wago?
They don't recommend just pushing in wires. Ideal doesn't have it in their label instructions, but their representatives and websites/social media say that just pushing in solid wires into their lever connectors is fine. From experience, it works well and doesn't come out. But they don't remove via twisting and pulling like how to remove from a push-in connector.
curious to know how it compares impedance wise, I know the Wago is a bit worse vs a well installed wire nut. I doubt it actually matters operations wise, just gives you an idea of how much wattage you would generate at the connector under load conditions
A wire nut twists the cable together and holds them. As the cable is in direct contact then the impedance is minimal, the Wago/Ideal connectors use a spring loaded type system, there is extra material between the conductors, so there will be an increase in impedance. How ever, I suspect that it is so minimal that specialist test equipment would be needed to measure it. And twisting cables together is just nasty ;-)
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade Using the Wago 221's making changes is less work, and the wire isn't all chewed up. ...that and connecting appliances/fixtures, that seem to always come with stranded wire, isn't horrible.
Hadn't seen the Ideal before. Both great. Beat wire nuts for sure.
It's hard to argue the convenience, especially when joining multiple wires together at a size where a wire nut would be awkward and annoying
@@Phynellius Yeah I've been using Wago for quite a while and I love them. Anything I do in my house will use them.
Wire nuts also require the cable to be twisted together. this weakens it and make fault finding a sod.
In USA Home Depot carries Ideal push type. Their site does not show the Ideal lever type.
@@ricdonato4328 That's a shame, I'd have thought they'd sell that everywhere.
What direction would you go on remedying aluminum wiring? Alumiconn, alu/cu nuts cold welding or rewire obviously cold welding and or rewire with copper are the best but to be cost effective in the long term what would you do?
Hi Karl. To be honest with you, I have very little experience with aluminium cable (I'm UK based, I assume you're in the US)? Copper and aluminium should not be direct contact with each other, so if your accessories (light switches, plug sockets) have copper terminals then either the accessories or the cable needs to be changed. The dissimilar metals will corrode from galvanic action and cause a faulty connection that could cause a fire.
If you have the occasional fault that needs repair then the cost effective way is obviously not to rewire. Looking around online, a good solution could be the Alumiconn (as you suggested), but I strongly advise using a torque screwdriver in conjunction with the manufactures recommendations.
Twist nuts: Personally, I hate all twist nuts and avoid them like the plague, I think they add stress to the cable and come off all too easily.
If you are concerned about the property as a whole, employ a qualified electrician to do a full test and inspect. The report will tell you the general state of the electric's and your electrician will be able to advise armed with real information.
Long term, I would personally rip it all out and replace with copper (but wait for the prices to drop). At least this way you will know for sure that the installation is safe and will be for decades to come.
I'm a licensed US electrician. You really have three options.
1. Use copper pigtails with Al-Cu connectors and normal devices.
2. Replace your devices with Cu-Al rated devices.
3. Replace the Al wire.
Pigtails are usually a good option. The connectors are very pricey, but you want to get the Aluminum conductors in place and then leave them the hell alone, as they can easily break. Either way, its going to cost and needs to be done by a licensed electrician that can set eyes on each connection and evaluate.
HI Karl, You can use our connectors but just need to fill them with Alu Paste to stop any corrosion.
@@daviddraper9256 Thanks David, great to hear 'straight from the horses mouth' so to speak.
I'm from Germany and there wago terminals (or "plug-in terminals from other manufacturers) have been used successfully for more than 30 years and have basically replaced ALL other connectors. in sizes up to 6 square millimeters and up to 8 wires, these rigid or flexible are always the first choice in home, office and industrial installations and wago also offers the right grease in syringes for aluminum wires that is easy to use
Is it ok to tape the levers down to avoid them from getting caught and opened inside a box? Thanks!
A decision you would have to make yourself. Personally I wouldn't (though I see why you would want to), because it may void any warranty, and if/when the tape is removed, for example to remove a cable, you could release other cables. Also PVC would be the only 'safe' tape I would think of using, but over time, it deteriorates and the glue may interfere with the connector making it unsafe. Maybe a question put directly at #Wago.
Electric tape is a good insulator, so it may increase the heat build up within. I would not recommended taping it.
@@erikkarling2176 thought so thanks!!
I’ve considered doing that, but it would block the inspection window. I like to inspect the nuts one last time after pushing them back into the box to make sure the wires are all still fully bottomed out in the connected.
Do ideal do a 32amp box for lever connectors like the 221 Wago box , seen the 16amp ideal lighting box everywhere.
Unfortunately no, not to my knowledge, which I personally think is daft considering the amp rating of their connectors. Personally I use cheap choc block boxes from the wholesaler. They do the job and cost less than £1 each.
How do you manage when maintenance free is required?
@@jasonegan2117 If you have to make the junction in the first place then there's little you can do about it, I just make sure that the choc box has strain relief to prevent any pulling of the cables and Ideal also produce a connector without levers, making for a more permanent connection.
Very similar, Apart from price. Wago are a fair bit more expensive. I use the ideal now for that reason.
I have to admit, I'm in the same boat, however the Wago's are slightly slimmer.
Are those ideal connectors available in the us? I’ve never seen them here.
Hi TW, I've contacted Ideal and I am waiting for a response. 👍
Ideal have emailed me stating that they do sell in the US but you need to contact them via email:
ideal_international@idealindustries.com
I hope this helps, please let me know how you get on.
Thanks, Sam
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade interesting...I wonder why they don’t just release them to all Lowe’s stores. Weird.
Ideal is an American company. I guess back when this video came out they were pretty rare, but in 2024 I've seen them at Lowe's, and hear that some Home Depot stores have them. I bought mine from Amazon. A jar of 500 of the 2-port connectors for $25.98. Not sure why, but that one is apparently "unavailable" now from Amazon.
If you use Wago to install SINGLE stranded wires in a house building or likewise I recommend Wago type 2273 push only with no lever at all. You may disconnect Wago 2273 by twisting the wire out in the rare case of rewiring. Wago 2273 is even more compact.
Ideal have their version of this called the 'In-Sure'
The Ideal In-Sure work the same and work very well. Just need to twist and pull to remove.
I've only used the wagos and I have had the clips lift up often when putting them in the j-box. Frustrating to say the least. It's to the point that I put tape over the top of the flips to stop them from lifting up.
Try using the Ideals, and please let me know how you get on with them.
I think wago 222 were better of that it had narrower latch and it locked also in down position. Only negative was that it was painfully if it accidentally latched down and you had finger there.
@@LimbaZero thanks for sharing your thoughts on this.
same. be curious to see if the ideal design solves that problem
@@feelingtardy it does. 👍
I can't find the Ideal version in the US. Only Wago is available.
Hi Malikto1, I have contacted Ideal, hopefully I'll get a response soon.
Ideal have emailed me stating that they do sell in the US but you need to contact them via email:
ideal_international@idealindustries.com
I hope this helps, please let me know how you get on.
Thanks, Sam
I could see this method of design used in consumer units in the UK.
I wish they would do that, how ever I would expect a fairly large increase in price... but the lower labour time would negate that .
I've only recently become aware of this type of connector and they intrigue me. I know they're common in Europe, but have heard that they're not certified for construction or commercial use in the US where I live. I am interested in using them for automotive uses, and wonder if they're still a decent choice in hot spaces with potential exposure to the elements.
I couldn't tell you what they're temperature rating is, but they're not IP rated for water (to my knowledge).
Also I don't know how they'd stand up to continuous vibration.
You can use them in residential and commercial installations, they’re UL listed and they can usually be used in automotive wirings
Just check out there website and you’ll find all certificates for the products you like to use by WAGO
@@philippmunch8607 great info, thanks Philipp 👍
Other sites tested for temperature and waco can stand some higher temperature than the wirenuts. Also some people mentioned lose wire nuts after some years but not with waco. They tested the temperature of the connection with different amp. With 60 amps the waco had 270F the Wire nuts had 245F. Wire nuts were melting at 900+ F with hot air blower the waco at higher temp.
In vibrating enviroment Wago is superior to twist nuts or screw terminals. Don't use single stranded wires in automotives and crimp the ends of multi stranded wires before clamping. In cars you need other wire insulation than in household as wires are rubbing on anything down the car body. And with 12V DC you can easily exceed amp ratings of 20A/30A.
Good info, but you need a Mic to hear you better and a camera stand to help with focus.
Thank you, it has been some time since this video was made, we have upgraded our equipment since then. 👍
Love your video, but please use American Wire Gauge as well as “mils”. I am not sure if you are talking about “mils” as 1/1000 inch or millimeters diameter or circular mils in mm. A little clarity for the Sons of the Revolution from the Sons of Empire, please?
Hi Karl. Thank you for your kind comment. Sorry I don't have a clue when it comes to American wire gauge, how ever in the UK we use MM (millimetres) which refers to the circumference of the cable.
I hope that helps?
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade Unfortunately, that's wrong, it's not the circumference of the cable, but the cross-sectional area in mm^2. As with so many things, the US uses some pretty arbitrary and non-sensical units, where the rest of the world uses metric SI units, which make much more sense.
Can these be used outdoors?
Only if they're inside a waterproof junction box
they dont offer anymore water proofing than a standard wire nut if thats what your asking
In Germany and France they have had screwless connectors for decades. MK in the UK have introduced a socket receptacle with level connectors. Most electrical fires are because of loose connections.
Yes I did a video on the MK the day it was released, it's not really caught on unfortunately, and yes you're right about the common fire fault.
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade
That is why I use Wagos on a ring or radial in backboxes to take the current load, and not to work loose using screws causing arcs.
There are a lot of "push-in" connectors made by different companies, including WAGO, Ideal, NSI, Heavy Power (Taiwan), and who knows how many no-name companies in China. I'm pretty sure other European companies too.
I've looked up Ideal's (expired) patent for their In-Sure push-in connector. Really interesting, using stainless steel spring "fingers" riveted to a tinned copper bus bar.
I don't know about using them since wire removal basically destroys the end of the wire. Lever connectors don't do much damage the wire ends. I've used a few 3-port WAGO 221 to bridge two power connections and add a pigtail to the electrical receptacle. If I need to replace the pigtail, I can keep everything else in place and just replace the pigtail. Traditionally that sort of thing has been done with wire nuts in the United States for the past 50+ years, but that chews up wire ends.
@@ypw510
Yes, have screwless connectors to take the current load with pigtails from the screwless connector to the receptacle. Current only runs thru the pigtails when the receptacle draws current itself.
Wirenuts are made by Satan himself.
@@johnburns4017
When done right, wire nuts provide probably the most secure, lowest resistance connetion. When done improperly (which can be easy) they damage wire and can be difficult to fix.
However, I've ended up replacing soldered connections wrapped up with vinyl electrical tape.
i thought wago only approved them to be used on 4mm fine stranded cables not stranded ?
Hi Firsteerr
Cable conductor sizes:
- Fine-stranded conductor 0.14 - 4mm² / 24 - 12 AWG
- Stranded conductor 0.2 - 4mm² / 24 - 12 AWG
- Solid conductor 0.2 - 4mm² / 24 - 12 AWG
I'm a DIYer and have used both. I don't have a preference and like the ease of use. My biggest fear is when pushing into the box I will accidentally lift a lever without realizing it so I always wrap a length of electrical tape around the body to hold the levers down.
That's the great thing about the Ideals, they click when you close the levers, they don't flop like the Wago's
tape is a waste of time unless maybe the box is jammed packed. in that case, the ideal seems to have a better design the accidental lever pop-ups
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade
I like them. Bought a jar of 500 super cheap. But the fully down "click" barely holds the lever in place. I can't imagine it would stop something from snagging the lever.
However, the lever opening (on these Ideal or even WAGO lever connectors) not being in the fully down position is an overblown concern. The lever meets with resistance and as long as it doesn't actually open, the wire is just as secure. The lever has to go well past the point of mechanical resistance before it presses down on the spring (with a barbed edge) that keeps the wire in place.
@@ypw510 I know what you're saying, I have had wagos open on me in the past, but with the ideals, they click shut. I've never had an opening issue with them.
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade
Still - that little click doesn't really seem to do much, and how much force (which is never really that much) to move it seems to depend on the individual fit of the parts. However, opening the lever to the point where the wire can be released requires intent.
However, there are some people who insist on taping the levers shut. That seems to me like those (where they're used) who insist on twisting wires before inserting a wire nut.
Good vid BTW.
4:03 Wago also have had Push fit for a while.
Can they work for dc connection for solar diy?
So long as the current stays within its limits, they should be fine. What kind of diy do you have in mind? If you intend on using it within your home to power your appliances etc, you will need permission from the National Grid (if you're in the UK), or you could face a very large fine.
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade I'm doing on my car for camping.
@@vahagnmelikyan2906 You should be ok, just check the amps, it will be different from the AC rating.
connectors dont care about about ac vs dc. only amps. and these pathetic panels put out very low amps. so gtg!
Suggestion: Don't make the intro music so darn loud! I did not know that ideal had the lever connectors. My local Lowes has the push-in and if you are using stranded wire it is difficult to insert the wire and get a good connection. I don't recommend them but would like to try the lever connectors.
Apologies for the loud intro. With the push in connectors, if you use ferrules on the stranded cable, then they'll work.
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade You kind of lose all the time-saving benefits of push-in connectors though, and if you're in a land where BS 5733 compliant maintenance free accessories are an irrelevance...
The HVAC dude preferred them for the control circuit small wires. I still prefer the good old wire nut. The small blue work great, in fact the manufacturer sends them with the order usually.
Thanks for sharing, we all get used to using certain materials, tools etc. I still refer back to using choc blocks sometimes, especially when there are lots of cables. A 5amp choc can hold 8x 1.0mm cables if needed.
These "connectors" are like different tools. Have some of everything and use what CONNECTS best in your particular application. Competent people will overcome all obstacles and having LOTS of resources (tools,materials,knowledge) gives one lots of options.
I'm only using these for home power and switch wiring for the most part. I bought a package that included 40 blue and 40 gray wire nuts, and I had no idea what I could use them on. I've used the orange/yellow/red for connecting wires.
The only time I had a use for the blue was to direct-wire ballast bypass LED tube lampholders. I was able to use the blue ones to connect two 18 AWG to a 14 AWG, then Ideal lever connectors to main power. I figure if I ever have to re-do it (like a damaged tombstone) I don't need to mess with the power wires coming in.
5:31 "for me, it's the Ideal, but only by a Wiska" What have they got to do with it?
Do with what? Sorry, I don't understand the question.
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade
>Do with what? Sorry, I don't understand the question.
I replied to this - have YT deleted it for some reason?
@@anonnona8099 no idea what you were attempting to ask originally. Can you mansplain it better or just try plain english?
@@srobeck77
>@anonnona8099 no idea what you were attempting to ask originally.
> Can you mansplain it better or just try plain english?
At 5:31 Sam said "for me, it's the Ideal, but only by a whisker."
I thought I'd make a joke and quote it as "for me, it's the Ideal, but only by a Wiska", and ask "What have they got to do with it?"
Wiska make electrical accessories, including boxes you might put Wago or Ideal connectors.
@@anonnona8099 never heard of it. But makes more sense now.
As a life long sparky can tell you that anybody bidding on a job will almost always use the cheapest wire connector = wire nuts. If installed properly wire nuts will never fail. Have installed them on vibrating machines that were installed in wet always damp areas and never failed. I always strip my wires longer then I strict jobs state then twist with a large pair of side cutters until you have at least halve a turn of twisted insulation then trim the ends then tighten wire nut with large side cutters followed by several wraps of quality ( & not garbage cheating china crap ) Electrical tape. Have came back to splices that I made 35'years earlier and still working great.
What’s your point? The connector itself isn’t that big of a deal, these would do the same thing. The important part no matter what connector you use is that it’s installed properly
Exactly, what is your point? If you want to save a few cents, go ahead and use cheap wire nuts. No one is stopping you. I don't mind paying more for a superior product that is faster, easier to install, less chance of human error during installation.
@@michaelkuzmin saving a few cents? When bidding on a large job as a contractor a few cents per part can amount to a lot of savings. Of course if using push in/lever connectors saves you enough money in time and labor that it would offset the increased parts cost then go for the better engineered wagos (hell better engineered faster splicing devices might decrease the cost to pay multiple helpers to wire up switches and receptacles). However, in the US at least, labor is relatively cheap so we can justify the increase time to use wire nuts.
Of course there are conservative older electricians here who see wagos as too prone to failures or weak looking, but there are also older electricians who would appreciate not having to manually twist wires together for decades and risk getting chronic joint pain.
@@DinkleBurg79 if you think about a large job (a large job is not rewiring a single residential house, it's more like a condo building or a 50 house development project), then sure, these things add up. but I am pretty sure that the consistent quality that eliminates defects and makes things easier to QA also factor into the cost. but then this doesn't really work in real life. in the world of plumbing for example we have PEX-A now with propex expanders. at the same time, those older conservative plumbers still work with copper which is 5 times more expensive and 5 times more time consuming to install. but I was thinking more about my projects which are small. like rewiring a house. I had to install about 200 pot lights. each had 3 push connectors that came with the lights. it was super nice to use. and especially when you are doing this in a dark hot attic in a full face respirator.
This type of connector is certainly the way forward, they just need to make the lower amp rated versions smaller, and introduce higher amp rated connectors for 50/60a situations
You didn't mention the price difference
Hi Matt. I did that on purpose, both connector's are priced differently depending on the wholesalers. It wouldn't have been a fair comparison.
about the same price. unless you buy in contractor bulk, then wagos can be cheaper that way
Tight box, Wago. Tight budget, Ideal.
Wago are very expensive in comparison
@ChampionsOfTheTrade In the US, in small quantities, Ideal are more expensive; but by the hundreds or thousands, Ideal are considerably less expensive.
Where do I get the IDEAL?
Screwfix is one place that sells them. The SKU code for the multi pack is 275JK
You can also get them by contacting ideal:
ideal_international@idealindustries.com
home depot
Contractors choice
Which one, or both?
Does anybody know why home depot and lowes do not have Wago? I can find Wago connectors on Amazon, but I don't trust anything from Amazon (fakes).
You could try contacting Wago at www.wago.com/us/contact#wago-support-contact-anchor. If they give you an answer, I'd love to hear it too.
We are in 250 Home Depots and currently expanding to 1000. We are also in all Menard's Stores. Lowe's is next! Thank you!
@@johnbukowski968 that will be a pleasant surprise. Do you work for Wago?
Youd have to run that by the CEO of home depot
I use Wagos only. Tried the Ideal push ins and the wire just doubled over, never would go in. Wago push ins went straight. I had pull out with the Ideal and none with the Wago. I don't feel the lever direction is big enough reason for me to change or try Ideal again. I need to speed of a push in, Wago provides that successfully every time. Ideal does not.
What cable were you using? I've never had that issue.
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade, neither are recommended for stranded wire. 12 awg -.16 awg. For my application, it is going to require and redesign. All good.
@@t3angling575 Taken from the @Wago website:
Stranded conductor 0.5 … 6 mm² / 20 … 10 AWG
Fine-stranded conductor 0.5 … 6 mm² / 20 … 10 AWG
These are the slightly larger units rated at 41A/450V
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade, I am working in the 12v range. Working with batteries, solar charge controllers, and rypically 12 - 16 AWG wire. Solar charge controller is 20A. I run a 20 A inline fuse. Thx.
I've never had an issue with the Ideal push-ins for 12 awg solid.
The comment about the Wago levers being "loose" is what I didn't like using them and went back to use up the wire nuts I already had. I want to try the Ideal.
If I remember correctly, there's a link toward the start of the comments on where you can purchase them from in the States.
Wirenuts? They are made by Satan himself.
@boogiedahomey the current test is one I'd like to do, but I don't have the equipment.
The UK doesn't use wire nuts, our cable is copper and twisting can make it brittle. They're also a pain when fault finding.
@boogiedahomey
Look up:
*1)* _Wago 222 Connectors vs Others, Testing Current Overload and Flammability_
*2)* _Wire Connectors Overloaded_
*3)* _What Wire Connector is the Best? Wire Nut VS Wago TESTED_
@boogiedahomey
Lots on U tube overloading screwless connectors, wirenuts, etc. John Ward does a few tests as does Silver Cymbal.
how in heavens name would flicking up and down, a lever ..in any product ..in any trade, , a mere 2 seconds to do...be a determineing factor in the purchase , / use. of said product...a lot of nonsence talked these days...
If you caught, or the lever was to get caught inadvertently and release the cable and unknowingly to the installer, I would say that would be an issue. I have fist hand experience of it happening to me.
Get better microphone and acoustic
Do you have any suggestions? 👍
Use wago in other people's homes.
I use them both, depending on what's in the van.
I use them in mine. Vastly superior especially with stranded to solid wire.
sorry, but your Wago seems like a fake, it does not have logos on the lever
It came out of a brand new Wago box. It is not a fake.
You can see the logo as he fidgets with the unit.
It does.
Jamir, did you miss the logo on the middle tab
Ideal push and pray are dangerous
Please explain
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade
No explanation came along.
@@johnburns4017 unfortunately not, still waiting for the reasoning behind why he thinks they're dangerous. I've never had one fail on me.
@@ChampionsOfTheTrade
Neither have I. I run a UK final ring circuit thru them, not via the screwed terminals on the back of the sockets (receptacles). The sockets are just spurs off the Wagos using 2.5mm flex conductors.
I have bought a bunch of Ideal connectors. They are also cheaper.
@@johnburns4017 it's not best practice to do that, spring sockets from the ring at each point, you'll also have issues fault finding should one occur. Fyi, all the flex including the cpc (earth) must be a minimum 2.5mm and preferably terminated with ferrules.