For the fans of wire nuts, remember they are poor when connecting braided and solid wires together. The braided wire doesn't pinch when combined with a solid wire, and can just coil round rather than locking in. That is why so many fail the pull test. These connectors have separate clamps so don't have the same issues.
I'm in the states and running into JUST that problem on my ac wiring. Stranded thicker wire connected to thin solid thermostat wiring and it is a nightmare. Bought a 10 pack of 221's and I know they're UL and think it's okay but I can't imagine it would be a worse connection than those damned wire nuts.
Man you guys. Thankyou I had one of these burn out on me I checked the cable and the wago had disintegrated. I wanted to know how safe it was to put in and you guys helped me. Cheers
That OCD comment is recognizable. I was using large wire nuts on 5 x 12 gauge wire, they weren't working properly due to some corrosion, and they're hard to test on top of that. I probably checked each connection 10 times for tightness and it still wasn't good. These Wago connectors really take the guesswork and frustration out of making electrical connections.
@@efixx it actually would be nice to have options with connectors with opposite side entry, but I haven't seen any with that design. That'd be useful for pigtailing to a single common.
@@wingerrrrrrrrr Yes I think you are right - unless the diameter of each is small enough that you can put two together. I ordered some of this type, but there is a lead time of 45 days!
Just opened a plug socket in kitchen and found 6mm cable jammed in with extension off the plug feeding the cooker which only needed 2.5 as only a small oven. Plug fubar, changed this with 6mm 5 port WAGO 221-615 41A, bloody amazing so much easier than connector blocks: plug socket connected off in in 2.5mm. Very expensive but can’t find something anywhere near equivalent that can take 6mm stranded wire
Any terminal with screw terminals it's liable to not being tightened correctly, not just connectors. The cost is a bit of a killer really, I use them where I have to, but still mostly used the connectors. I would like to see a more distinguishing feature between the two types for the different current ratings, maybe a direct colour lever.
Gaz & Joe, great video as always, I love the Wagos too, having bought a set at Elex London I have used them since, but I have to tell you that the Wago rep told me that they are pronounced Vago
Thanks for the comment Dean it's nice to hear from you. You're spot on about the pronunciation, in fact Gaz and Joe have a long running joke about it! Stay tuned for more content.
So it's not Wahgo, but Vahgo? Don't know if Americans will get on board with that. That's like saying Pahree. Correct, oui, but just not done without quizzical looks.
Great Video as always. I have one concern where the Wago is not the silver bullet and more thought needs to be paid where the assumption is they are all Maintenance Free (MF). If you look at the BS 5733 (MF) documentation for Aggregate current (I ag) (on Wago's site) they specific that to maintain MF compliance this should not exceed 50A (depending on the wago type). I realise that Wago's fitted within accessible areas are not MF but I've seen (and discussed) several wrong implementations of (expected) MF where I ag is not taken into account certainly on a ring (or radial) circuit higher than 6A. One of your excellent videos could explain this well and prevent a wago box buried under the floor boards that is not actually MF compliant.
I’ve got a ton of 222’s to get through before I can justify buying some 221’s 😏 Nice video lads! Have you done a video on the 773 series, I’d be interested to see if you can fit a stranded wire in those without tinning the end or using a ferrule.
Take care when stowing the WAGO connector back in the box, that you do not inadvertently flip the WAGO switch back up on another wire or other object inside the box. I've seen it happen and caused a short
Hi, love your videos! Question, I have 2 sockets where the cables are really too short, you can barely get at the terminal screws. They have 3 of each colour wires going into socket. Could I use the Wago 222, 5 port connected to say the 3 brown and then add a single fly lead to connect to the socket? Or would this be dangerous?? 👍
Interesting video, thanks. Bit confused about the current ratings. At the start of the video you say the smaller and larger Wagos can take 20A and 30A respectively but later on when you show the close ups of the connectors, the current ratings are higher. Also, on one side of the Wago it says JET and has a different current rating than on the other side. Can you explain, please? Thanks.
Well spotted, we'll give Joe a slap on the hand for not mentioning. It's all down to differing electrical standards and approvals. JET is related to the electrical standards in Japan, it's also accompanied by the PSE mark which is the approvals mark for Japan. Whereas the other side of the connector has a different current rating approved by ENEC - Europe and UL- USA .
Hi Guys, is the 221 a maintenance free connector my understanding is that the 221 isn't and the 222 is maintenance free. Would appreciate some feedback on this?
The download of document on my post above only states the 222 is MF but perhaps because the 221 is newer and may just need an update to the doc. I've emailed Wago but no reply as yet (if at all)
From my research: the 222 in a Wagobox is Maintenance Free; the 221 on its own is not as it is too loose in the slots. But Wago sell a little shell thing that fits in the Wagobox and that makes the 221 MF.
What kind of maintenance would be needed on any of these? Oil change? Do you mean someone expects to have to regularly open and close the lever to restore the connection after degrading over time?
4:03 Do the conductor strip length markings mean MAXIMUM strip length or the ideal strip length? I've always taken it to mean the ideal strip length, +/- say 2mm.
Do you know if the WAGO connectors are good to use in a vehicle (RV in my case). I worry that they might vibrate enough that the lever would click back open and the wire would fall out. Do you know if these are good for a high vibration environment like a vehicle?
I'm not an electrician just a keen Diyer but that means connecting wires coming in from 2 opposite directions you will have to make one end longer to reach and bend round to the Wago input. Maybe that is not much of a problem for professionals !
It's not a problem. And only going in from one side has massive advantages, for example the terminals require less space. And you can orderly make your connections, like this junction box here: der-elektriker.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Abzweigdose-installiert-1024x536.jpg And you got a better protection because potentially live parts are not exposed. The thing is, if you got a problem in the installation and need to make measurements in it to find the fault, you need to pull out the wires of a junction box to perform tests on the connectors. And I can tell you, after 30 to 40 years the screw terminals are all loose. The copper deforms over time, and the screw remains in the original position. That's something that won't happen with the Wago.
Wire nuts also need the same wire orientation though, so it's just the same. It would need nice if they offered options for opposite side connections also, I would buy them.
I recently had a socket fail, on inspection, the electrician found that the wires in the wall were very short which probably hampered the installation of the switch. Is it ok to use a 5 way wago connectors with an extension in one of the holes and the 3 existing connections in the other 3 holes with one hole left spare? I can't find a 4 way wago connector. This will mean only 1 wire will be fed to the socket and will be easier to tighten correctly if this is ok to do.
I have a problem i have a 400v system but can't find a 400v connector does a 300v connector do the job or Will this fail after a long time Thank Nice vid tho I feel very stupid a the moment i saw another vid and i was looking at the Japanse side of the connector. I am very thankfull for the vids you make becaus i would have been looking for another week if you didn't make a vid Thank you very much to take the time to make these awsome vids
Can you use the 5 port 221 connector to get three 6mm cables into and then one to the face plate of a double socket to get around the fact that three 6mm cables don’t fit? I have a 6mm radial run of sockets that have FCU spurs off some of them to isolate extractor hood etc and just discovered that three into one doesn’t go! Is the wago route a safe way of solving this?
Brilliant video guys. Just found your channel. I have a question about the connectors - Although the manufacturer suggests that cable should be stripped back no more than 13mm, how far inside the WAGO connector is the contact point? For instance, if I inadvertently stripped a cable at 8mm long would I still get a connection?
Just ordered some of these for the light at the top of the stairs. When I remove the current fitting there is not much wire that drops down. I have also orders the junction box and don’t think there is enough wire to get into the box. So can I just wire up the Wago 222 and push into space between ceiling and loft or does in have to go in the wago junction box?
***See*** this video for a Wago vs traditional connector race! ua-cam.com/video/KIBnrO1Yn4Y/v-deo.html - Looking for FRESH electrical content *** Making products waterproof ua-cam.com/video/_DooiH4BCZo/v-deo.html ** Light switch with no wires MAGIC ! ua-cam.com/video/V3KqTOxp2oU/v-deo.html * What we do - if you're new to eFIXX ua-cam.com/video/vs3O1kpxTiE/v-deo.html
Was that just a misquote of Japanise amps by Gary at start as he said 20A and 30A but for the smaller and larger wago connector block, whereas Joe said 32A and 41A.
Can these be used as a replacement for connector blocks? im thinking maybe good when i wire in my car stereo and some other low voltage stuff. Great video :)
The skinny ones in this set for example. 👍www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/3922334-replacement-probes-and-clips?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9YWDBhDyARIsADt6sGY25tT2sEctDof7OPaDx7c8RPq9GMiK11MUVweAHBsNIXuXwaGaICcaAsPnEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
8:43 They really should redesign the test ports to accommodate the thicker probes that are commonly used. It shouldn't require buying thinner test leads just to be able to probe the connectors easily. You can force it in and enlarge the hole enough to make contact with the thicker probes, but that's hardly ideal, and not very safe, if you're not sure you pushed hard enough yet. It's actually easier to probe from the wire side rather than using the test port in that case.
Does the WAGO connector (3 bays) function the same as a GKEEMARS connector that is (1 in & 2 out)? I need to split the (+) Positive current 2-ways. One is going to a 24V (150 Watt) DC motor with 12AWG wire and the other one is going to an LED voltage meter that uses a 20AWG wire. I need to split the current like a "Y" splitter, one wire to the motor and the other wire to the LED volt meter. Currently I am using a Gkeemars (1 in to 2 out) but I would like to replace it since they do not work as well. Thank you, Ed
Ok ist zwar nett, aber warum macht man net wirklich eine Steckverbindung draus. Ich suche so etwas auf die Art. Richtige Steckverbinungen. Ich schliese die 3 Kabeln von z.B. Luster an einen Verbinder, dann die 3 Stromkabeln an einen andere Verbinder und verbinde die zwei einfach mit einer Steckverbindung. Gibt es sowas am Markt?
great vid lads but at end of day its the customer who pays im a chippy if i used a screw that was 3 times the price but did the same job what will the customer say given that choice ?
@@normanboyes4983 yeah, if you get paid enough per hour, the extra cost from using the more expensive connector should be offset by the shorter work time. However, if the labor is free then the parts and material costs will be more significant, increasing the cost of the job.
Gaz can you tell us why that in this video the wago is marked as be rated to 41 amp and the conductor length as 13mm ? Yet in the video you did with Markus the very same wago ie the 221 is marked as 32amp and conductor length as 11mm ? Why is the accact same wago ie 221 in both videos but with different information on them? Is one of them a fake ? All my 221s are rated at 32amp with an 11mm conductor length, the my two gang three gang five gang and my new inline 221s .
There are two size families in the 221 series - one rated to 32A - 4mm sq - eg 221-413 and a larger one rated to 41A - 6mm sq - 221-613 www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Accessories_Index/Wago/index.html#Wago_Lever_C
JET stands for The Japan Electrical Safety & Environment Technology Laboratories and is their ratings group further, for the 32A side as to why it doesn't say 600v it's based on requirements for ratings labeling in different countries here's a Wago rep explaining it ua-cam.com/video/d2lkBlIPkHg/v-deo.html
I love them , but there is a lot of hate for them in North America ( totally unfounded ) . I love them , as I don’t need to lug a pair of linesman pliers !
When I work in North America, I got my linesman pliers and marrettes aka wire nuts, in the UK, back to screw terminals or wago, I prefer wago to ideal, ideal being a yankie, is maximum profit, down to value engineering, being an E & E Engineer, I know about such things, it's a preference, you may agree or disagree, but, been a spark Engineer for along time, not yet set in my ways, not yet, anytime soon, lol,
fine connectors, there are plenty good uses for them, nothing wrong with the Marrette / Wire nut. There absolutely no need to make the electricians job any easier..
@@imissedtheapex1191 I've actually used the 8 way ones to make up a central junction box for an entire lighting circuit with all RF receivers for the wireless switches at one central location
Good one, you don't need to open the lever to remove either, just twist back and forth. Very similar to Ideal brand push in connector. I'm not sure that there is much difference in performance, but the IDEAL brand is cheaper and readily available.
They put these things in led light fixtures to connect to the supply wires I keep getting call backs where they went bad inside and replace them with unreplacable tried and true wire nuts
In this case if you think that the spring is more stronger than the screws So why car manufacturers they use bolds for the wheel instead of clips and springs??
@@efixx Yes i know, i sold them as a distributor and went to the factory in the early 90's when they first came in to the country, The very reason i commented was because you continually referred to them as way-go in the video which was wrong. if you know why do you call the way-go?
Most of these comparison videos fail by mistakingly comparing a product with a technique; apples to oranges. Traditional wire nuts don’t ever fail; the person who first twisted the bare conductors together may have done it wrong (or not at all!), but the wire nut didn’t fail. Wagos are not wire nuts. The electrical connection is minuscule and therefore it is a weak connection, just like back stabbing in a common receptacle.
After the failures of pushin connectors on rec. All ul approved no inspections is going to pass these without years of testing in the field. I would not use them.
It is not WAY GO It is WAGO as in WAG THE DOG - Pay attention and pronounce it correctly Aldo learn that CORPORATE NAMES are always in the ALL CAPS iteration Do you know the difference between ON / OFF and on / off ? and in which context each are used The youngest students I taught age 7 know the difference Do You ?
Andrew rowles - If you want to see copies on another level check out Alibaba! - www.google.co.uk/amp/s/m.alibaba.com/amp/showroom/wago.html We don’t recommend a purchase!
PSSST - THE NEW Wago 221 INLINE version has finally arrived! ua-cam.com/video/r7KW2QOfpN8/v-deo.html
The suspense was killing me! Phew, a testing probe classic!
For the fans of wire nuts, remember they are poor when connecting braided and solid wires together. The braided wire doesn't pinch when combined with a solid wire, and can just coil round rather than locking in. That is why so many fail the pull test. These connectors have separate clamps so don't have the same issues.
I'm in the states and running into JUST that problem on my ac wiring. Stranded thicker wire connected to thin solid thermostat wiring and it is a nightmare. Bought a 10 pack of 221's and I know they're UL and think it's okay but I can't imagine it would be a worse connection than those damned wire nuts.
But they have a ton of other issues.
@@RadioRich100 Such as?
@@Nyle95 Arcing, melting,overheating, intermittent connections, levers popping open when wires are pushed in the box, enough?
Not if you know what your doing. Those clamps have resistance and get hot.
Man you guys. Thankyou I had one of these burn out on me I checked the cable and the wago had disintegrated. I wanted to know how safe it was to put in and you guys helped me. Cheers
For that to happen they have been subject to massive overload, JW did a test of wagos, they take a serious amount of current to do that.!
@@arcadia1701e Or a cracked spring or poor installation as in some insulation inside the connection.
That OCD comment is recognizable. I was using large wire nuts on 5 x 12 gauge wire, they weren't working properly due to some corrosion, and they're hard to test on top of that. I probably checked each connection 10 times for tightness and it still wasn't good. These Wago connectors really take the guesswork and frustration out of making electrical connections.
Absolutely love Wagos think they have huge advantage over through crimps great video guys, love the Chanel
We love them too Matt, thanks for the comment.
im so merica old fashioned i love my buchanan copper crimps and plastic caps 2 squeezes with lineman's and there off
As a sparks myself I use both in different situations, but the connector still has that edge with entry both sides a must with shorter cables.
It's good to have options, that's for sure!
@@efixx it actually would be nice to have options with connectors with opposite side entry, but I haven't seen any with that design. That'd be useful for pigtailing to a single common.
You can also get inline types. www.wago.com/global/installation-terminal-blocks-and-connectors/inline-splicing-connector-with-lever/p/221-2411
@@jvl-pallesorensen1097 those appear to be for splicing only, and not pigtailing. I assume there's only one wire to be inserted per port, correct?
@@wingerrrrrrrrr Yes I think you are right - unless the diameter of each is small enough that you can put two together. I ordered some of this type, but there is a lead time of 45 days!
German engineering at its finest. Love them.
Just opened a plug socket in kitchen and found 6mm cable jammed in with extension off the plug feeding the cooker which only needed 2.5 as only a small oven. Plug fubar, changed this with 6mm 5 port WAGO 221-615 41A, bloody amazing so much easier than connector blocks: plug socket connected off in in 2.5mm. Very expensive but can’t find something anywhere near equivalent that can take 6mm stranded wire
Great to find out where they have hidden the test point!
Any terminal with screw terminals it's liable to not being tightened correctly, not just connectors.
The cost is a bit of a killer really, I use them where I have to, but still mostly used the connectors.
I would like to see a more distinguishing feature between the two types for the different current ratings, maybe a direct colour lever.
Gaz & Joe, great video as always, I love the Wagos too, having bought a set at Elex London I have used them since, but I have to tell you that the Wago rep told me that they are pronounced Vago
Thanks for the comment Dean it's nice to hear from you. You're spot on about the pronunciation, in fact Gaz and Joe have a long running joke about it! Stay tuned for more content.
So it's not Wahgo, but Vahgo? Don't know if Americans will get on board with that. That's like saying Pahree. Correct, oui, but just not done without quizzical looks.
Definitely they are a great time saver
Great Video as always. I have one concern where the Wago is not the silver bullet and more thought needs to be paid where the assumption is they are all Maintenance Free (MF). If you look at the BS 5733 (MF) documentation for Aggregate current (I ag) (on Wago's site) they specific that to maintain MF compliance this should not exceed 50A (depending on the wago type). I realise that Wago's fitted within accessible areas are not MF but I've seen (and discussed) several wrong implementations of (expected) MF where I ag is not taken into account certainly on a ring (or radial) circuit higher than 6A. One of your excellent videos could explain this well and prevent a wago box buried under the floor boards that is not actually MF compliant.
I’ve got a ton of 222’s to get through before I can justify buying some 221’s 😏 Nice video lads! Have you done a video on the 773 series, I’d be interested to see if you can fit a stranded wire in those without tinning the end or using a ferrule.
One thing I noticed about the smalller Wago 221 series:
If you work in cold environment the 222 series have more robust levers.
Wago 221 are the business . Through crimps are for three handed sparks.
grozzer 21 where are you from that you call them sparks? Uk?
crunch9876 yes!
chock blocks seem like such a hobbyist thing after learning about wago. The "top hat" screw splice is also quite shit,
Brilliant demo thanks so much guys 👏
Take care when stowing the WAGO connector back in the box, that you do not inadvertently flip the WAGO switch back up on another wire or other object inside the box. I've seen it happen and caused a short
The old orange and grey Vagos are a finger death traps 😭
Hi, love your videos! Question, I have 2 sockets where the cables are really too short, you can barely get at the terminal screws. They have 3 of each colour wires going into socket. Could I use the Wago 222, 5 port connected to say the 3 brown and then add a single fly lead to connect to the socket? Or would this be dangerous?? 👍
Great new channel guys!!
Thanks Carl, stay tuned for more!
Could the wago be used for device wiring connection? Trying to mount a ceiling fan and the wire says 1430 which I think is tinned copper.
Создателям Wago я бы дал Нобелевскую премию. За последнее время это лучшее устройство, которое так помогает в работе.
The smaller connector is rated at 32A? Could that be used on a ring final circuit then?
Interesting video, thanks. Bit confused about the current ratings. At the start of the video you say the smaller and larger Wagos can take 20A and 30A respectively but later on when you show the close ups of the connectors, the current ratings are higher. Also, on one side of the Wago it says JET and has a different current rating than on the other side. Can you explain, please? Thanks.
Well spotted, we'll give Joe a slap on the hand for not mentioning. It's all down to differing electrical standards and approvals. JET is related to the electrical standards in Japan, it's also accompanied by the PSE mark which is the approvals mark for Japan. Whereas the other side of the connector has a different current rating approved by ENEC - Europe and UL- USA .
So if I understand correctly, in Europe the smaller and larger Wagos are rated for 32 and 41 Amps respectively?
@Rubber Thingy Thanks!
How long until they make consumer units with these connections?
Thanks 🙏
Use Choc block for the CPC only.
Love to see some European exclusive Wago products.
Hi Guys, is the 221 a maintenance free connector my understanding is that the 221 isn't and the 222 is maintenance free. Would appreciate some feedback on this?
Great question Daniel, we'll look into it!
From: www.wago.ltd.uk/enclosures/wagobox/
WAGOBOX is MF with 222 or 773
WAGOBOX XL is MF with 221 or 2273
WAGOBOX XLA is MF with 222, 773, 221 or 2273
The download of document on my post above only states the 222 is MF but perhaps because the 221 is newer and may just need an update to the doc. I've emailed Wago but no reply as yet (if at all)
From my research: the 222 in a Wagobox is Maintenance Free; the 221 on its own is not as it is too loose in the slots. But Wago sell a little shell thing that fits in the Wagobox and that makes the 221 MF.
What kind of maintenance would be needed on any of these? Oil change?
Do you mean someone expects to have to regularly open and close the lever to restore the connection after degrading over time?
4:03 Do the conductor strip length markings mean MAXIMUM strip length or the ideal strip length?
I've always taken it to mean the ideal strip length, +/- say 2mm.
Do you know if the WAGO connectors are good to use in a vehicle (RV in my case). I worry that they might vibrate enough that the lever would click back open and the wire would fall out. Do you know if these are good for a high vibration environment like a vehicle?
I'm not an electrician just a keen Diyer but that means connecting wires coming in from 2 opposite directions you will have to make one end longer to reach and bend round to the Wago input. Maybe that is not much of a problem for professionals !
It's not a problem. And only going in from one side has massive advantages, for example the terminals require less space. And you can orderly make your connections, like this junction box here:
der-elektriker.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Abzweigdose-installiert-1024x536.jpg
And you got a better protection because potentially live parts are not exposed. The thing is, if you got a problem in the installation and need to make measurements in it to find the fault, you need to pull out the wires of a junction box to perform tests on the connectors.
And I can tell you, after 30 to 40 years the screw terminals are all loose. The copper deforms over time, and the screw remains in the original position. That's something that won't happen with the Wago.
Wire nuts also need the same wire orientation though, so it's just the same. It would need nice if they offered options for opposite side connections also, I would buy them.
I recently had a socket fail, on inspection, the electrician found that the wires in the wall were very short which probably hampered the installation of the switch.
Is it ok to use a 5 way wago connectors with an extension in one of the holes and the 3 existing connections in the other 3 holes with one hole left spare? I can't find a 4 way wago connector.
This will mean only 1 wire will be fed to the socket and will be easier to tighten correctly if this is ok to do.
I have a problem i have a 400v system but can't find a 400v connector does a 300v connector do the job or Will this fail after a long time
Thank
Nice vid tho
I feel very stupid a the moment i saw another vid and i was looking at the Japanse side of the connector. I am very thankfull for the vids you make becaus i would have been looking for another week if you didn't make a vid
Thank you very much to take the time to make these awsome vids
You need to go with a 400V connector - otherwise you risk an insulator breakdown or liability issues.
Can you use Ferrule connectors on these?
Can you measure the voltages on the terminal block like you easily do with screw type connectors on a live circuit?
Can you use the 5 port 221 connector to get three 6mm cables into and then one to the face plate of a double socket to get around the fact that three 6mm cables don’t fit? I have a 6mm radial run of sockets that have FCU spurs off some of them to isolate extractor hood etc and just discovered that three into one doesn’t go! Is the wago route a safe way of solving this?
Brilliant video guys. Just found your channel.
I have a question about the connectors - Although the manufacturer suggests that cable should be stripped back no more than 13mm, how far inside the WAGO connector is the contact point? For instance, if I inadvertently stripped a cable at 8mm long would I still get a connection?
The contact point is roughly at 5mm from the end. So 8mm would make a connection just fine.
Just ordered some of these for the light at the top of the stairs. When I remove the current fitting there is not much wire that drops down. I have also orders the junction box and don’t think there is enough wire to get into the box. So can I just wire up the Wago 222 and push into space between ceiling and loft or does in have to go in the wago junction box?
Needs to go in a junction box
Another great video.
Thanks 👍. Gaz
Just out of curiosity, is this a Wago sponsored video - did they send you their products to review?
We bought the terminals
THANKS
***See*** this video for a Wago vs traditional connector race!
ua-cam.com/video/KIBnrO1Yn4Y/v-deo.html - Looking for FRESH electrical content
*** Making products waterproof ua-cam.com/video/_DooiH4BCZo/v-deo.html
** Light switch with no wires MAGIC ! ua-cam.com/video/V3KqTOxp2oU/v-deo.html
* What we do - if you're new to eFIXX ua-cam.com/video/vs3O1kpxTiE/v-deo.html
Was that just a misquote of Japanise amps by Gary at start as he said 20A and 30A but for the smaller and larger wago connector block, whereas Joe said 32A and 41A.
That stripped ground wire insulation in in the left switch is scary - right where the outer insulation ends.
That's green/yellow sleeving over a bare conductor, not nicked conductor insulation.
Great video 👍
Thanks Garry, stay tuned for more!
0,2 mm2 is it then neccesary to get the insulation off first or will that be ok by clicking on the orange lever for connection?
Can these be used as a replacement for connector blocks? im thinking maybe good when i wire in my car stereo and some other low voltage stuff.
Great video :)
They sure can
What probes fit in to the test points on wago 227 and 2273 because none of mine fit?
The skinny ones in this set for example. 👍www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/3922334-replacement-probes-and-clips?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9YWDBhDyARIsADt6sGY25tT2sEctDof7OPaDx7c8RPq9GMiK11MUVweAHBsNIXuXwaGaICcaAsPnEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
8:43 They really should redesign the test ports to accommodate the thicker probes that are commonly used. It shouldn't require buying thinner test leads just to be able to probe the connectors easily. You can force it in and enlarge the hole enough to make contact with the thicker probes, but that's hardly ideal, and not very safe, if you're not sure you pushed hard enough yet.
It's actually easier to probe from the wire side rather than using the test port in that case.
Does the WAGO connector (3 bays) function the same as a GKEEMARS connector that is (1 in & 2 out)? I need to split the (+) Positive current 2-ways. One is going to a 24V (150 Watt) DC motor with 12AWG wire and the other one is going to an LED voltage meter that uses a 20AWG wire. I need to split the current like a "Y" splitter, one wire to the motor and the other wire to the LED volt meter. Currently I am using a Gkeemars (1 in to 2 out) but I would like to replace it since they do not work as well.
Thank you,
Ed
Yes
02:33 How about the Amps when it's used in 230V installation?
*** NEW VIDEO ***
We take a closer look at the Wago 224 series for lighting applications
ua-cam.com/video/y98v7NvuCVw/v-deo.html
It really came down to the wire there.
Might have missed the obvious but, why is there 2 different current ratings on either side of the wago?
Hi. The lower one is for Japan and the higher one is for Europe 👍. Thank Gaz
I saw different voltage ratings
Thanks Joe an’ Gaz .. really useful. OCD ?? ... nooooo .. Never !! 🤪
Hi guys. Is there a Wago connector that does not require pre-stripping of the wire?
We think they have some specialist for lighting trunking connections that are IDC.
I think I’m missing something here. You got 0.16 ohms between the earth and live connectors! Can you explain please?
They were likely simulating an R1+R2 test so had connected earth and live together
Ok ist zwar nett, aber warum macht man net wirklich eine Steckverbindung draus. Ich suche so etwas auf die Art. Richtige Steckverbinungen. Ich schliese die 3 Kabeln von z.B. Luster an einen Verbinder, dann die 3 Stromkabeln an einen andere Verbinder und verbinde die zwei einfach mit einer Steckverbindung. Gibt es sowas am Markt?
221 are not classed as maintenance free, you have to used the wage adaptor as an additional piece wagon 222 are MF all according to wago
2aa2z
Can you use these for stranded wires? Or just solid metal wires?
The Hitman - yes you can use stranded wires and a combination of solid and stranded in different slots.
These are great with stranded. The 773 series are NOT even though they claim they fit both. You would have to tin the ends for a stranded.
How are you going to test the falure after 10 years
great vid lads but at end of day its the customer who pays im a chippy if i used a screw that was 3 times the price but did the same job what will the customer say given that choice ?
Time
@@normanboyes4983 yeah, if you get paid enough per hour, the extra cost from using the more expensive connector should be offset by the shorter work time.
However, if the labor is free then the parts and material costs will be more significant, increasing the cost of the job.
Gaz can you tell us why that in this video the wago is marked as be rated to 41 amp and the conductor length as 13mm ? Yet in the video you did with Markus the very same wago ie the 221 is marked as 32amp and conductor length as 11mm ? Why is the accact same wago ie 221 in both videos but with different information on them? Is one of them a fake ? All my 221s are rated at 32amp with an 11mm conductor length, the my two gang three gang five gang and my new inline 221s .
There are two size families in the 221 series - one rated to 32A - 4mm sq - eg 221-413 and a larger one rated to 41A - 6mm sq - 221-613
www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Accessories_Index/Wago/index.html#Wago_Lever_C
@@efixx thank you I was just a tad confused
Well
221-41x can carry 20A in maintaince free box
221-41x can carry 32A outside of such enclosure
Depends upon the aggregate current rating of the maintenance free box.
wait, how are you going to connect the blocks to the socket? Dont u need a 3 ways one for the out?
This is a single gang switch, not a socket. He is using it to switch the live and passthrough the neutral and earth.
Question: why is it rated 32 amps on one side and 20 on the other please - is 20 amps the derated ampage for inaccessible locations?
20amps for japan, 32 for europe
JET stands for The Japan Electrical Safety & Environment Technology Laboratories and is their ratings group
further, for the 32A side as to why it doesn't say 600v it's based on requirements for ratings labeling in different countries
here's a Wago rep explaining it
ua-cam.com/video/d2lkBlIPkHg/v-deo.html
Why aren't wago style connections used directly on sockets, light switches and fcus as well?
Good question - Crabtree used to produce a range of light switches with grab terminals - Corinthian range.
@@efixx Have you got any videos on wago 222 connectors and do you think they would be safe to use without a junction box for 12v ceiling lights?
I believe the BS1363 standard requires the terminals to be screw type. May need updating!
That damaged insulation on the ground connector bugs me.
on the ground no big on the common disturbing on the hot blood boiling
WHAT damage? Why have 2 people claimed there's damage? Its sleeving. it slides along the cable?!
I love them , but there is a lot of hate for them in North America ( totally unfounded ) . I love them , as I don’t need to lug a pair of linesman pliers !
That's because in US they are obsessed with wire nuts. But if they wont to miss out on a superiour product it's their look out.
Wire nuts take way too long and are bulky
@@mrmurphypiers1241
Yep. Wago is far superiour.
When I work in North America, I got my linesman pliers and marrettes aka wire nuts, in the UK, back to screw terminals or wago, I prefer wago to ideal, ideal being a yankie, is maximum profit, down to value engineering, being an E & E Engineer, I know about such things, it's a preference, you may agree or disagree, but, been a spark Engineer for along time, not yet set in my ways, not yet, anytime soon, lol,
*** Check out the new WAGO GELBOX and 2273 Series connectors - ua-cam.com/video/evbfwb0C5oI/v-deo.html ***
fine connectors, there are plenty good uses for them, nothing wrong with the Marrette / Wire nut.
There absolutely no need to make the electricians job any easier..
There is plenty wrong with the wire nut
Never had an issue with a wire nut. Tons of service calls with bad wagos. Arcing out
1. Wire nuts are inferior
2. What do you mean by no need to makes sparks jobs easier?
Move over Ant & Dec.
I can see in 15- 20 years time all those Wagos giving trouble . When the old connector blocks will be going strong
6:09 Mate. Turn the connector around and make sure the connection is good and that the cobber is all the way in and the insulation is not in a pinch!!
How am i supposed to fit six 2.5mm conductors into one of those?
Korean Zombies Nan ... use two 4 way Wagggggos with a link. Common sense ?
zjzozn I was joking I hope no one needs to ever do a junction with 6 conductors
@@imissedtheapex1191 I've actually used the 8 way ones to make up a central junction box for an entire lighting circuit with all RF receivers for the wireless switches at one central location
Can the smaller take 20 or 32 amps max? You said 20 at the beginning but 32a later?
32A in the UK
You don’t even need to open the lever with solid wire
Toptip
Good one, you don't need to open the lever to remove either, just twist back and forth. Very similar to Ideal brand push in connector. I'm not sure that there is much difference in performance, but the IDEAL brand is cheaper and readily available.
They put these things in led light fixtures to connect to the supply wires I keep getting call backs where they went bad inside and replace them with unreplacable tried and true wire nuts
6 square millimetres, not 6mm squared (which is 36 square mm)
Haha, its 6mm² not 6²mm
In this case if you think that the spring is more stronger than the screws
So why car manufacturers they use bolds for the wheel instead of clips and springs??
Wheels aren’t made of soft copper metal. Why is tape used in aerospace applications instead of rivets?
@@efixx any plastic that I know
They deteriorate eventually,
Do you know of any traditional junction box Deteriorating in the last 80 years??
6.32 damaged insolation on the green/yellow cable
It's just a ground those wires are usually bare anyway
yeah, it's not getting enough sun... oh wait you meant insUlation...
No damage. Earth wires are bare here. (I dislike this)
unique meter
You can add more information: www.vekmar.com.tr/wago-buat-klemensi/
I want to see them melt from excess current.
If I remember rightly, I think John ward done a video on that. Check it out. Stay safe
ua-cam.com/video/bP0qHyVAymU/v-deo.html
Wago have been around since the early 90;s, its pronounced var-go.
Yep it’s German 🦾👍
@@efixx Yes i know, i sold them as a distributor and went to the factory in the early 90's when they first came in to the country, The very reason i commented was because you continually referred to them as way-go in the video which was wrong. if you know why do you call the way-go?
@@knobon what's wrong with you knob why are you so emotional?
Emotional?
0.16 is not the best reading I try and target 0.02 ohms 😁
Most of these comparison videos fail by mistakingly comparing a product with a technique; apples to oranges. Traditional wire nuts don’t ever fail; the person who first twisted the bare conductors together may have done it wrong (or not at all!), but the wire nut didn’t fail. Wagos are not wire nuts. The electrical connection is minuscule and therefore it is a weak connection, just like back stabbing in a common receptacle.
How do the wire nuts stack up when connecting solid and fine stranded wires together?
Strine or Pommie?
After the failures of pushin connectors on rec. All ul approved no inspections is going to pass these without years of testing in the field. I would not use them.
They have a UL approval. We’ve been using cage clamp screw-less connectors in Europe for more than 20 years.
It is not WAY GO
It is WAGO as in WAG THE DOG -
Pay attention and pronounce it correctly
Aldo learn that CORPORATE NAMES are always in the ALL CAPS iteration
Do you know the difference between ON / OFF and on / off ?
and in which context each are used
The youngest students I taught age 7 know the difference Do You ?
Please refer to The Times newspaper business section with reference to corporate names. Then we can anorak about this topic.
Feeding the neutral down to the switch is an old system that needs to be fazed out. 3 plate wiring is better and easier access.
Next time, pause the video and let the guy on the left use the washroom
Get on with it
Watch out the cheap imitations on Ebay
Andrew rowles - If you want to see copies on another level check out Alibaba! - www.google.co.uk/amp/s/m.alibaba.com/amp/showroom/wago.html
We don’t recommend a purchase!
Paid the shipping never got it.
wago is easier to use but wire nut is so much better,,,lazy electricians will use wago,professionals will use anything else but wago
Try using a wire nut in most of Europe 😂🤣😂🤣😂
@@efixx Most of Europe is using wire nut 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Don't like wago don't like crimps
Don't like screw connectors but you
Can't beat a good solder joint
In European wiring regulations generally you can’t use solder with screw connections.
H
Backward countries amuse me.
Where are what everybody/world uses, wire nuts?
nobody in the world outside of North America uses them...
@@alistair1978utube Wago for life.