Overloading Cable Connectors, Electrician
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- Опубліковано 23 лют 2021
- So I brought a welder to turn into a ampage pushing machine, going to do a series of videos surrounding this so keep your eyes peeled,
my Instagram is / n_bundy_electrical - Навчання та стиль
Watching you vids at least 3-4 times a week, only been in the trade for 18 months and I'm 45 years old so saves me untold embarrassment when I forget how to do something, I can scroll through the library of vids you posted and usually pick up a few tips. Thank you so much, keep it up m8 really appreciate it. Don.
Judging by the amount of current that the cable can take and the connectors, I feel safer when using them as they can take considerably more than their rating factor. It just goes to show, as long as you have the correct sized breaker the installation should remain safe..... Assuming correct installation and to regs of course. Great vid Batman, love the science side, also big thumbs up to John Ward.
What exactly is the purpose of a test like this when your biggest point of failure is the wire insulation itself?
@@mts7274 i guess confirming compliance and adequacy?...
The connector block compared to the others did well, but it's a big lump of metal which just goes to show they aren't bad if installed correctly with some care. Everything took more than double the rated load before it started to go wrong which is comforting to know.
Manufacturers will always give themselves so much room in the ratings charts, much like supermarket use by dates, they go well over to cover themselves
i wont think is a good thing to have the cable be the most likely point of ignition. if the connector would have failed at its rating with out a spark now that would have stopped the chance of a fire. after all the circuit is now broken.
@@highkicker11 I'm no Sparky, but I'd have thought failing without risk of spark isn't part of the design requirements of these sort of connectors. Isn't that what the fuses are supposed to do (assuming they haven't been bypassed)?
@@Thermalions yeah fuses are suppose to do that but if some idiot by passes it. the former first responder in me would be happy if a major fire would have been stopped because of the connector failing when it reaches it stated limit. because i just know there is no such thing as fool proof.
@@highkicker11 the heat generated by the poor connection is enough to start the fire. A loose connection doesn't need to have any visible arcing. The higher resistance of the connection is what causes heat and eventually failure of the connection
Some great information there. I always tell people off when I can see they are overloading extension leads. Big thumbs up. 👍
Good old connector strip,never let me down 👍
Flamin' heck Bundy. This video is pure fire !
Excellent ! Thank you, good old connector block, been using them for 65 years !!!🇮🇪☘️
The Wago failing like that is a good thing it acted as a fuse and possibly saved the house burning down. It still survived WAY over it's rated current and unlike the terminal block which seemingly was better hasn't screws to get loose over time. Long term old style terminal blocks are far more of a liability.
Definitely my new favourite sparky on youtube!
thanks for a very instructive video Nick. I did watch the John Ward video also, additional line of thought - use 2.5mm TPS so the behaviour of the pvc insulation can be observed. great work.
Brilliant video, didn't expect the choc block to last
As a prehistoric dinosaur spark , I have not become a huge fan of the modern day Wago, so this video has reassured me.
Great demonstration, cheers.
The Wago failing like that is a good thing it acted as a fuse and possibly saved the house burning down. It still survived WAY over it's rated current and unlike the terminal block which seemingly was better hasn't screws to get loose over time. Long term old style terminal blocks are far more of a liability.
is has failed way way above its rating... i dont see that as a problem even less so when there are WAGOs that can easily handle 32 and 40A ?!
Great stuff Nick. A picture is worth a thousand words. I know JW has maybe cornered the market on this sort of stuff but the more of this the better for me.
Must say youre wasted as just an electrician, you should be on the tv or teaching people, youre so natural , and you've done the job you'd be training people to do, another great video. Paul
Thanks mate 👍👍
That was some good shit. Fair play Bundy your A1. Big respect from Ireland
Congrats on 40,000 subs, another great video, loving the different types of videos, stay safe Nick and team 😁
Well done on the 40k most deserved!!
It was good to see that all the connection method held above the rated specifications. For this to happen in the real world the overcurrent protection would have to fail. Wago failing might not be a bad problem at failure point as it opened the circuit whereas all others would have kept generating more heat. Nice video glad you kept staying safety precautions.
Nice one Nick. i bet like me you thought the old connector block would have gone first. very interesting.
congrats on the milestone mate really enjoying your videos. I'm currently a truck driver just enrolled on a course to become a spark so picking up any tips and tricks from yourself i used to work as a chippy so hoping the 2 trades combined can generate a decent amount of work
Good video mate, really surprised as well that they withstood such a high current before completely dying, keep up the good work mate, we appreciate the videos!!
Actually reassured by this vid. Surprised they could take so much!
That wago took alot of beating mr bundy!!!haha, keep up the good work!
very important demonstration, pretty sure you will have college lecturers using your videos to demonstrate the importance of the circuit design and protective device selection.
i saw the sparks fly banner and it reminded me of my old UA-cam channel where i overloaded things to destruction. i still do that sort of stuff just for entertainment but there is not much science behind it unfortunately its just dumb experiments, i want to produce more electronic content. i have some more light controller projects that i am hoping to squeeze a video out on.
thanks for sharing.
Great work as always. Thanks for the awesome content stay safe and take care
the tool bags look mint!!
Be interesting to see how some everyday and replacement mobile phone chargers would stand upto a test like this. Congrats on the 40k Nick, fully deserved mate 😎🤙
Mint Video dude.
Nice PB Bags 👍🏻
Congrats on 40K. You could have said the plastic clips were a deliberate demonstration of premature collapse :)
Great video dude, looking forward to others in the series 😎
Congratulations for 40k subs , lovely to see such a honest guy (and adam) grow , keep it up.
Ps - I need a kitchen re-wire XD
Congrats on 40k Nick 👌 and great new content 👏.
Suggestion : coiled vs. uncoiled extension lead. Also cheapo multi-way socket blocks - can they actually handle 13A?
Daisy chained extension leads would be interesting too. I think we all know the answers to most of these already but, just like Big Clive and ElectroBoom, we want fire :)
I'd be interested also to see what the coiled vs uncoiled lead is like with a load equivalent to say a radiant/oil heater etc on it (or maybe three - just for the views; no-one would ever do that, would they?).
@@mikepembo8297 the original flame man was photonicinduction. Miss his conent
@@Liberator975 I miss it too. I was just thinking about his channel the other day and was going to have a check for new content, but given your comment I guess he hasn't returned for a while :(
The guy was bonkers (in a good way) but I understand he had some personal issues going on at the time. I just hope he's on a good path and happy despite not posting to UA-cam
@@mikepembo8297 absolutely
I was amazed to see how all those day-today connectors we use are under-rated by the manufacturers, but I've found that it's the opposite when it comes to 13A plugs and FCUs. I've seen many of those suffer with continuous heavy loads which they should have been fine with. Fused spurs are usually unnecessary for fixed loads, so I always avoid specifying them when regulations say they can be omitted.
40.2k subscribers when I watched this - congratulations. The wago has the least copper in it, so not surprising that it was the first to fail. I wonder if the connection pressure of the wago was also affected by the heat. That looks like an inverter style welder, so as per below, would be interesting to see a true RMS clamp meter reading the current to see how it compares to the readout on the welder.
I have not long ago found your channel and really enjoying it been watching most videos on the night when I can not sleep because of having a cast on my arm
I have taught electrical trades and NEC classes in the US for 41 years. I find it fascinating the difference in wiring methods and codes. I always encourage my students to watch your videos to learn how other countries perform their work. You are indeed a professional!
Love your work and find it very interesting, you are clear, precise and come across very trustworthy. shame you are not located closer to where I live :):) you got yourself another subscriber.... have a fab day.
Very interesting and well presented. Looking forward to all the future experiments! Awesome work on 40k!
Wago 221 are 32amp in the UK
Amazing that the old fashioned cable block did so well
Did you check the calibration of the display on the welder?
Nice work mate 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Thanks nick interesting video. One suggestion if you are going to do more of this type of testing “experimenting” it may be worth setting up a dedicated power point though a contractor and e stop so if anything goes wrong you can cut the supply quickly.
Whilst other youtubers have done this, a test of fake wago's would be good to add to your library. I was doing a video myself on fake wagos, and when I was looking just on ebay, there were so many I ended up stopping. There are plenty which the copiers have done, which wago dont even do, whoever design the wagos for the copiers, have seemingly taken the product range further, and I have no doubt that wago will in the end, copy the copiers. Also, you inadvertently demonstrated why you use metal clips in certain areas instead of plastic ones. Finally congrats on getting 40k+ subs, you will have to give Dan some tips lol 😜😜😜
Looks like good old choc-block connectors are the future then 😄
😂😂
Not maintaince free though.
@@arcadia1701e tail light guarantee 👌🏼😂
Ok if you want to burn your house down
@@puntoboy_gaming exactly 😊
very interesting to see what go on keep the videos
Great video,keep up the good work
Great work to show none electrical person not to do and what I a nail or screw can penetrate cables can do
Very interesting, thanks Nick 👌🏻
Extremely satisfying to watch 👏
I love a good litmus test of cables and connections.
Would you be able to rig up accessories with poor connections and illustrate how hot these high resistance connections can get in the real world. Use of the thermal imaging camera would be great on this experiment.
Love you’re channel mate , the wago 221 in the uk are rated at 32amps , the other rating on the other side , think it’s 300 odd volts is only for Japan and that 20amp rating .
All the best dude
Good indication that actually the old style connector blocks are best due to having the most metal and largest csa of contact with the cable cores.
Does just go to show that going back to the metal cable clips is a massive improvement in safety, especially on fire escape routes.
The Wago failing like that is a good thing it acted as a fuse and possibly saved the house burning down. It still survived WAY over it's rated current and unlike the terminal block which seemingly was better hasn't screws to get loose over time. Long term old style terminal blocks are far more of a liability.
yes,screw terminal safe forever even in socket,plug,socket,mcb,main switch use screw terminal connection.. for joint cable for permanent please use cable link..
Watching the smoke coming off the wires made me want to hold my breath haha
You have to take into account that you are using a lower voltage but high amperage, also that the welder will be using a DC direct current not AC alternating current , so you are testing these connectors not directly in how they would be used in peoples homes, you should also have a proven amp meter in the circuit and not just trust the welder dial . But does show the dangers of what happens when loading is not taken into account on any electrical circuits. Keep up the vlogs Nick
you bought a welder. you brought the welder with you to the unit.
With my computer and 2 monitors, plugged into an extension, no issues.
Wild part which will most likely trigger you, I plug a portable AC into an extension that is plugged into the extension my computer is plugged into.
However, I have checked during the summer when both are on (and I don't run the AC full speed given my room is small), and no issues with heat.
I probably ought to check what amps all these things use next time summer rolls around...
Very interesting vid Nick.
gives me vibes of photonicinduction videos i miss his stuff good video mate !
To be honest, I expected the 'chocbloc' connector to do well, if a good initial connection was made, it's when incorrectly connected they suffer. Examples like overtightned screws and threads stripped so connection tension is lost etc.
Very interesting, especially from my view as an apprentice!
Keep up the good work mate 💯👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks, will do bud
Great work Mr bundy... Great channel. Can we see some kopex hooked up to the welder..... See how it gets on.. 😁👍
Great video very informative well done
Great Video, Wagos is just starting to show up here in United States, majority of HVAC distributors here only sell Wire Nuts and no Wago. I did ask them if they were planning to stock them, their reply was they never heard of them.
Ideal do similar connectors. I believe that Ideal are better known in the USA.
Your the man bro keep it up...
great content and well done.
That's very cool and interesting, Thanks.
Congratulations on 40k subs 👍
Good vid Nick 👍
It’s the same as tyres for vehicles they are rated to carry a certain wait that’s why you have the number part listed like 95Y the Y is the speed rating how fast the tyre can continuously travel at for one hour with out blowing and the 95 is the rating given for how much weight the tyre can carry I can’t remember exactly every rating and how they work but I’ve seen car tyres fitted to vans fully loaded and they still carry the air
Very informative video👌👌👌👌
I'm not surprised that the wago failed first. I was in the trade yonks ago, and, to me those things look horribly flimsy. The best connection - in accessible positions - would almost certainly be a porcelain connector block! 34A for 2.5 seems very high: in my day, 2.5 T&E clipped direct was rated at 27A for a conductor operating temperature of 70C.
I really enjoyed the video Nick and congratulations on reaching 40k . I'm a big fan of using the wago connectors myself so i was pretty impressed with how it performed under that test. How do you find ideal compared to wago? I've never used them before obviously.
Well done on 40k mate you got there in the end 😂
Lol cheers bud 🙌🙌
Hi Nick, thanks for the video. I think that the Wagos are rated at 32A.
When I was a 12th Edition apprentice we went to a BICC factory, think it was Preston or Manchester, they rigged up 3/036 PVC insulated and MICC and put 100A plus till they glowed red hot. The MICC was discoloured but still usable.
Quick question please mate, would you say i could get away with a standard through crimp when making a joint in a cable and burying it in a wall ?
I'm having to move a couple of sockets to a safe distance from the hob (300mm) but as per usual they've called me in after the kitchens been installed, so I'm left with no choice but to join the cable somehow, originally I thought every joint needed to be accessible but I read on the IET website that through crimps are deemed as an acceptable permanent joint and can be burried ?
Would appreciate your advice 👍🏻
Liked that. Thanks for sharing.
I went through a cable at my father in laws, 32a radial, the cable connector i repaired it with melted and it was rated for 32a 250v, had to repair it today with the same connector a year after the original repair due to that happening, what would you recommend for inside a plaster wall to repair it better, as i don't trust the cable connector anymore
Interesting video. Can we have the same using old cable VIR. Also some 2.5mm in some flexicon would be good and will show why the charts show different ratings depending on cable routing/clipping/under insulation. Great educational video. You good job
He’s got all the kit !!
Great video Nick. Quick question - Did you double over the core on the choc block? Can't believe how well it performed.
@N Bundy Electrical, what happends overloading VIR or old rubber cable ???
Interesting demo
So the connector block is probably at or close to the wire temperature,but the plastic casing is restricting.the heat emissions which is why it appears cooler. Very.good video
You should do it with the old fuses to see what they blow at and compare it to MCB's. Would be interesting to see the difference between old and new gear.
That’s a good one to be fair
Great idea, that would be a good one to see. The old rewireables are supposed to have a fusing factor of around 2 on overload, and CBs an I2 of around 1.45In, so would be good to see it in action.
John Ward has done it 👍
@@darknessdestroyer5524 found this one from good 'ol JW for the fuse wire: ua-cam.com/video/WhF9Tn8q9us/v-deo.html but couldn't see one for CBs.
@@johnhoward2104 yes, sorry I should have said that it was fuse wire that he was testing, it would be interesting to see if the overcurrents applied to MCB's match up to the regs as in regards to trip times 👍
Makes ya wonder if crimps should used at the fuse board as that looked like the second point of failure. Would like to see this being tested on fuse wire, mcb's rcbo's rcds and main fuse . A/c/b type for overload.
Nice way to strip cable!
I wonder how the ideal insure connectors would fare as I have been using them recently over wagos because I'm cheap af and can buy 400 of them for the price of 100 221 🤔
Presumably these are all performing well above the rated current due to the very favourable conditions here: open air in a cold unit. Presumably the rating has to be for significantly worse conditions (e.g. high ambient temperature, covered in insulation) as well as, of course, some safety factor for good measure.
The problems in installations usually come from bad jobs or connections that have been worked on. The connector block is great if you seat everything correctly once and tighten it down with the appropriate amount of pressure. Even better if you use ferrules. But if you work on the connection or don't use ferrules and only clamp down certain strands while others are either loose or damaged, things can get funny fast. If you take care and do everything correct, you don't have to worry about all the options. Question is which is the most likely to be used in a wrong way?
That's where the Wago shines in my opinion. You can disconnect and reconnect pretty much as often as you want and you won't get a damaged cable, while being able to see through the thing to make sure the connector is well seated.
This was an awesoe segment dude, thank you. There's probably a discussion to be had about DC amps from a welder vs AC amp,s from a ring main, continuous current vs RMS current, and the effect the difference has on current handling of a given cable... but we'll leave that for another day... Or for JW :)
What is enlightening is that the oldest type of interconnect (screw-down block connector / chock block) had both the best current handling and the best mechanical integrity of all the types of interconnect.
Do you think this will change how you join cables in future?
Wago are easy to install... but you've just proen they're the least reliable in a fault condition...
Least reliable at 120 amps yeah haha
@@b96m13 120A definitely seems like a fault condition to me 🤣🤣
One day someone's gonna wire their EV charger in 2.5mm and the OCP is gonna fail you can be sure of it...
If the insulation has melted off the entire cable then I think we can forgive the Wago... In this case it acted as a fuse and turned off the 2.5mm house-sized heating element 🤣 I once bought 2x "refurbished" stage lights from eBay which both contained undersized old style block-connectors that were extremely hot and actually melting the outside plastic of the device and was severely burning inside!... so, it's not a case of "block connector is better than a wago" it's a case of using the correct tool for the job. If either is not-rated for the amount of current it's a fire waiting to happen. In some ways the Wago is actually less dangerous in the hands of an idiot because it always applies the correct torque (screw-down connectors can be under or over tightened), and as they just look a bit flimsier so people don't just put them in without stopping and reading the rating which is printed on them, unlike most terminal blocks.
Wagos are maintanace free. Connector blocks aren't. The 221 is also available in a 40 amp version now.
DC and RMS = same heating effect until skin effect kicks in at higher frequencies. Then ac will cause more heat.
Holy smokes. Hey which one of those would you use for a bathroom vanity light?? It has two 60 volt bulbs. Not nearly the power like in the demonstration. I have to make a stranded wire to solid wire connection. I know electricity creates heat through resistance and I don't want my house going up in smoke. If you were in my boots what would you do?? I do appreciate any help or advice and I thank you in advance.
Awesome. I'd love to see you test some of the popular smart home plugs to destruction at their rated load and give your opinion.
Or "Shellys" which are designed to be "hidden" in the walls and behind switch/socket plates.
Would you rather have the terminal that keeps the connection through 150 amps, or something that can take 100amps but would fails earlier acting as a kind of fuse?
Science with Mr. Bundy
Would be interesting to see a non fire rated downlight vs fire rated mounted on plaster board
Nice to see a 2.5mm T&E tested.
My flat has an 80 amp main fuse on the board. What sort of current draw can it take before it blows and the lekkie board have to come out it?
Really good video thanks