17:29 If you can't get the tie rod castle nut to tighten because it just keeps spinning, you can use a pry bar and pry up on it to add tension to it. Pry between the lower balljoin and tie rod. That will allow you to tighten the nut.
I don't even own a 4runner and I watched the entire video because you are so thorough and very good at explaining what's important. Excellent editing also.
@@mikechalette886 if you just jack up the front end and jerk the tire around side to side, and up and down, you will notice if the ball joints are worn out.
This kit saved me more then $30... the canadian dealership was quoting EACH lower ball joint at $250 (before tax), luckily I saw this video and gave the kit Part number and it cost $200 (before tax) for the kit. Thank you!
Dude, you are helping me incredibly with my two 4runners. But I'm not gonna lie, you crack me up wearing no shoes working on trucks! Keep up the great vids. You're a fabulous teacher.
This is a great tutorial. I like how you are pragmatic about what the manual says, and what most people actually do. With the right tools (23mm and 33mm ball joint press, breaker bar, cotter pin puller) the job takes about an hour per side and is no more complicated than changing brake pads and discs.
This was an amazing video. Thorough, detailed, great video angles. No idea why someone gave a thumbs down. I’d love to see what kind of video is acceptable for them. Thanks so much for taking the time and the energy to film and share this. I just worked on my car today, and I know filming it would just have drug out the process, and that’s not even ensuring I had great camera angles, adjusting the camera, explaining stuff, and then editing the video on top of all that. Thanks again - a lot!
Best video I've seen in a while. Love it when you tell us what size sockets and wrench to bring before we get down on the ground. Gotta say that hand in the pinch point at 14:57 had me on edge......Mine is a 2001 Extracab TRD Tacoma, bought new, 255,000 miles. No rust, original alternator (did change the brushs but they were still long). I was looking how to check the ball joints, thx.
I probably could have secured that better lol. I try to lay out the tools since I hate not having everything I need before starting a job. Fun tidbit: I usually shoot that scene after the job is done. :)
2002 4wd LTD. 322,xxx miles, second owner since January 2013 and 144,xxx miles. Everything looks original under there now. Replacing upper and lower control arms, and sway bar bushings along with ball joints next week. Great vid, great editing. Keep up the PhoRunner content!
I’m an old lady and could care less about car repairs. But…buying a used 2000 for a son so I started to watch your channel. And my other son is a mechanic. You are amazing how you present these problems and repairs. Very interesting! Well, I’m hooked now. Crazy!
Yup.. this is the very first thing I replaced on mine after getting the car, and of course they were replaced with OEM Toyota ones. You can save a good 15-20% off if you buy OEM parts online. Way worth it!
@@PhoRunner Great video by the way, an A MUST service to avoid catastrophic failure. I read in the forums if the car is post ‘00, there’s actually a service bulletin where the Toyota dealer will do it for free.
@@PhoRunner Yes you did 👍🏻 I missed that part, sorry about that. Fantastic work covering this repair completely. This is off topic, but I was wondering if your Climate Control Module (CCU) has ever failed. Mine is acting all crazy. I cannot turn off the A/C and only a couple of buttons on it work/do most of the functions. Maybe you could do a video on this? 😁
Excellent video! I plan on doing this job for my 4Runner. I paid $429 in parts out the door from Toyota. Using the recall kit, crown boots, and 8 bolts(recommended ones). I was going to buy the Toyota sway links but they were ridiculously expensive. Maybe another time. Thanks again!
I'm getting ready to do this and a bunch of other front end work including replacing the control arms. I just want to clarify, I don't need a ball joint press? This video is incredibly informative, thank you so much for making it!
Coincidentally; this was one of the first updates I made on my 99 4Runner. Besides changing the oil, I also replaced the manual and transfer case oil with Redline's MT-90, because it's GL-4 rating, making it safe for the brass rings in the 5 speed. I also did the rear diff with Lucas full synthetic 75w-90 because of better cooling properties. I changed all the drain plugs with GoldPlugs; made in U.S.A. mainly for the stronger magnet! I did order the lower ball joints from McGeorge Toyota in Virginia. Great prices from a dealership! I had no idea there was a recall kit! The main reason for going with genuine Toyota ball joints was that mine were the original at 328,000 original miles! This is why the factory parts may hands down be the safest bet, if you want to be as safe as possible. Thank you for this important information! I also ordered the 8 flange bolts and used the blue Locktite as a standard! Take good care brother! ❤🌄
@@PhoRunner Went and looked at my 2004 Sequoia owners manual. It says "Rear Differential 75w140 synthetic" Don't feel crazy now. The front it lists as 75w90...but I don't wave 4wd so that doesn't matter to me.
Thank you for this video! Doing my surf soon! Anyone wondering if these are the same part numbers for a 3rd gen Toyota Surf (KZN185)…the answer is yes. 😊
Had this happen twice while driving. Thank God I was going slow both times! Once the ball joint breaks its game over , you're stranded cause the freaking tire comes off the car! Good video. Thanks for torque specs
The moog 555 greasable lower ball joints work extremely well been using 1 set on each if my rigs for 5 plus years now I grease then after every oil change
Check that the Moog LBJs you get have the 555 mark and look like the set in this video. Moog also ships non-555 LBJs but the castings look like crap and have a domed cover on the bottom side (the one shown in this video have a flat cover).
Awesome video as usual! Just swapped mine out over the weekend but then discovered my outer tie rod boots were torn. New project and waiting for parts….
I was never aware of this issue until it happened to me in my 97 Tacoma. Just turned into a parking lot and Thump. I also have a 97 4Runner and my wife drives a 2000 4Runner. I guess I’m going to do this repair on two more vehicles.
got my ball joints replaced at 90k. and I will do it inline with water pump/ radiator replacements. doing everything together makes the car feel much newer.
great job on this video…own a 2006 4runner… this video is what i was looking for instructions with good video to follow… your tips along the way explaining good and bad options … are clear for owners to choose their presence👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I did these a few months back on my 97 4runner and fixed everything, didn’t think I could tackled before the video but it was easy! I need to do the same thing on my 98 Tacoma, LBJs look identical so I was thinking of just ordering from McGeorge again…if they don’t work I’ll just have a spare set for the runner lol but I’m 99% sure they’re identical
If I recall correctly, the Tacoma has a different part number! The tie rods won’t fit if you order 4runner parts. Outside that, should be similar repair.
Thank you for this video. I don’t have the tools for the job, but I got the recall kit part number I didn’t know about! Saved a few bucks. Those 30 something dollars is alot for me at the moment. And the part numbers you gave saved me some time. Thank you for the video and detailed description!!!
Just had a passenger side fail 2000 SR5 4Runner 248,000+miles. Think they were the original. Bought Mooge replacements. 4 bolts 1 Castle nut 1 pin for castle nut And red locktight. Some scuff marks on inside of wheel. Pulled forward about 4-5ft and loud noise. Got out and seen my wheel turned slightly Fun lol
Moog isn't what they were three decades ago. All made in china with questionable quality. You should redo it soon with OEM. Not worth your life and limb trying to save a few dollars.
@@Nessal83 Already installed. Usually I would get oem parts but I needed it fixed then not days later. Probably going to get the oem lowers and uppers when I order the oem rear passenger seatbelt as it is not retracting all the time. You are correct though, cheap parts are exelent for on the fly fixes but not long term solutions. Don't get me wrong I'm not against cheap parts just the ones that I don't have to risk my life with lol
@@frankdelucey2137 yeah totally agree. Certain parts like this where quality is all over the place and for such a critical part, I only go OEM. But if it's rotors and pads or stuff like that, I go with a good aftermarket brand. Wish you the best.
Thanks for this thorough how-to. After watching another video about the OEM bolts (both the original "green" and updated "red" were included in the testing) I went with ARP 35mm bolts (673-1004).
I had just done the passenger side of my 99 Tacoma and pretty much did it the same way, I was hoping that you were going to give the torque specs. They looked like the exact parts but didn't verify, I had heard the 1st gen Tacomas had a lower ball joint recall also. I have 140k miles and very slight play on the passenger side but of coarse I'm going to change the driver side also. Didn't know they had a kit so had bought them separately. Thanks for the specs. and thought it was a great video.
same here - gonna get this done on my 2004 Taco now. Notice on your Taco (if it's like mine), there is a squarish rubber boot cover over the LBJ. I was comparing with my 4Runner and thought that was interesting that aren't on those for some reason.
@@PhoRunner swapping out a front axle....just like this vid....but out on the trail....bush mechanic style. I've only seen a couple videos....but they not good like yours
Great video(s) brother. I have a 2001 4runner that I picked up and have been watching a lot of your videos on getting it in top shape. Appreciate it! Keep it up.
I have a 02 Tacoma with 300k miles I’m the 3rd owner and don’t know the history of the truck. It drives great but for no more than that it costs I think I’ll replace the lbjs just because. I’ve changed all the oils and other maintenance so I’ll be happy to do this job.
The pictures to scare us into getting our priorities straight on our 4runner is so right dude haha. Pay the 200 bucks now to avoid several thousands in damage, and the price for OEMs we can get for far less than the dealership would sell them. When the shop gets done putting on my UCAs, I'm going to order my LBJs
Top notch info. Thank you for your effort in putting this all together. I have a 2000 4x4 most likely on the originals. Any idea why mine would not be on the recall list as well?
Im getting a "click" from both front wheels when I go over speed bumps in my 97 SR5 5 speed (for over 2 years). Checked the suspension and everything looked good. Except there was a little bit of movement in the LBJ on both sides. Parts ordered from McGeorge. Going to install soon for a trip up to Trinity. Thanks for the great Video!
It happened to me (974R 2.7 3rz 2wd Manual Tran 450k miles). I had taken it to Sears for a battery test/warranty, when the tech pulled out of the garage and turned down a bank/steep driveway the drivers side ball joint came apart. Luckily he was going slow and only my fender got very slightly bent upward. I tried to get Seats to compensate but they didn’t of course. Replaced it but can’t remember if I did the other side too. I dig your videos.
Very nice as always man. I learn something in this one. Never knew they had a special tool to separate the ball-joint. I always use the sledge hammer 🔨. Great job my Friend.
Nice video. I'm fixing to do this. I have a 99 4runner and I think they have put the wrong ball joint on the driver's side. 2002 it's a updated different part from 99-2000.
I'm not sure how address teh cabin noise or dashboard noise. Perhaps some old clips?? I used to have this crazy squeak in my 4runner too but it seems to have disappeared lol. Maybe all the bushing replacements soften up the ride :)
@@PhoRunner absolutely I had a version of this that was snap on and I must say the hf one is comparable. I do all my own auto work and have used it hard for years and hasn't failed yet.
Just me personally I wouldn’t use the Moog lower ball joints. I decided to go cheap on my wife’s Sequoia and the lower ball joint had a catastrophic failure about a year into installing it. Needless to say I ended up going with the OEM lbj
I cannot believe none of these Toyota sites will let me look up a lower ball joint assembly for a 2007 4Runner. All I can get is the ball joint attachment without a ball joint! It's CRAZY!! Going to my local Toyota dealer tomorrow and blow his mind, because I have already been on their site as well.
@@PhoRunner Got a question for ya. Ever seen a front axle that binds up and causes vibration, and it's not the cv axle? Seems like it's coming from the transfer case. All my tie rods and ball joints check good, and replaced the axles and hub bearings about a year ago. Not looking good for me so far.
@@PhoRunner It was the CV axle. as soon as I removed it from the hub and bearing assy, it popped, and spun freely. I'm replacing it with an OEM axle, much beefier than the other one I had in from a few years ago, also installing diff and sway bar spacers and upper A arm to offset the bind the lift puts the front end into. The upper A arms will make for a better alignment also. Thanks for your time!
DON'T PUT OFF REPLACING YOUR BALL JOINTS! I was traveling 35 mph around a curve and was 1 mile from getting on the Highway. The front left gave way, my first thought was damn, I didn't even see that pothole. Milliseconds later I realized my 2002 SR5 just collapsed. It was 6am on a Monday. Luckily I was able to safely get off the road. My front left wheel collapsed and folded under my running board. I stopped within 150 feet. I had it towed to my shop, I have been able to get the left front cv joint back in place. I used 2 Jack's and ratchet straps to lift up the A Arm. I could not temporarily get the ball joints back together. I left a jack under there for now. I was hoping to get everything back together and drive it ( 20 feet ) into my shop but no luck. I will just fix it in the driveway. Not sure of the collateral damage yet but looks limited. I have 287 K miles on this 2002 SR5, 4wd. I have always read, Don't Wait to replace your 4Runner ball joints, it can be catastrophic. And always replace with Toyota parts. I knew my front end was in desperate need of attention. I feel stupid looking back. I'm glad I was alone when this happened. DONT PROCRASTINATE THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!
Another great video. Great camera work, easy to follow, and great instructions throughout (and in flip flops 🩴like others have mentioned - nice!). I like the upside down castle nut trick - have not seen that one before. LBJ's were already done when I bought my 3rd Gen 4Runner last year (👍); however, I also have a 2004 Tacoma (original owner) with the original LBJ's, and this video has inspired me to replace those soon. On another random note, have you ever changed the oil cooler seals/hoses (for preventive maint, possible oil leaks, etc.)? I watched a couple of videos on that, wondered why I couldn't get to the oil cooler to unscrew it, then realized the videos were done on 2WD 4Runners and didn't have anything in the way. Trying to find the easiest way to do that.
I’ve never done this repair before. Hopefully it isn’t too hard. I try not to replace anything that I don’t need to unless I know it’s a known issue lol
Hey, thank you for the video. I was wondering if that recall kit works on the prado 90 series and did that kit settle the problem of ball joint total failure causing wheel to collapsing
Excellent Video! Very Enlightening to me a new owner! Thanks!! I've been admiring the Gen 3 for at least a decade. Recently I grabbed one with 270k miles on it. So now the owner/enthusiast education begins. I didn't see in the maintenance records that the LBJ had ever been replaced. But I see the telltale inside tire wear indicating excessive negative camber. So at the least I'm going to replace both pairs right away and see what else needs it. One thing I do notice is general slop in the front end. If I go over a bump or pull to a stop and then release the brake, I can feel feel play, where the front end seems to settle back to where it was before the event. What kind of wear would cause that?
@@PhoRunner THANKS! So that's a helpful potential path to a reduced clunkiness, because my rear end also sags a little - on my 4Runner I mean... haha. I sure would like to understand how the parts in the front end interact. Is there any resource you know of that shows maybe a 3D simulation of how the stock 3rd Gen suspension works?
I just wanted to throw this out there to help someone out. I kept the castle nut on there, and when I separated the ball joint from the tie rod it hit the castle nut so hard it ended up mangling both the nut and threading. I think it was because I didn't screw it on enough. Just be sure to screw it in some if you decide to keep it on.
@@PhoRunner Was just going through your other videos. I was subscribed, but didn’t realize bell 🔔 notification wasn’t turned on. Lots of projects to get caught up on. Mine is stock, so haven’t stressed the suspension with lifts and really big tires (just a tad above stock), but it’s taken me everywhere (a 2000 and owned for 20 years) without any issues. Gotta give it some love for taking care of me.
17:29 If you can't get the tie rod castle nut to tighten because it just keeps spinning, you can use a pry bar and pry up on it to add tension to it. Pry between the lower balljoin and tie rod. That will allow you to tighten the nut.
you are a lifesaver, I was about to go buy new tie rod ends
I don't even own a 4runner and I watched the entire video because you are so thorough and very good at explaining what's important. Excellent editing also.
Thanks Bruce
@@PhoRunner are there any tell tale signs to know before it's to late?
I don’t know any lol
@@mikechalette886 if you just jack up the front end and jerk the tire around side to side, and up and down, you will notice if the ball joints are worn out.
Do you now want a 4Runner?
Hard to express through words just how grateful I am to you for making this video. You gave me the confidence to tackle this job on my own!
Anytime!! Glad it was helpful
This kit saved me more then $30... the canadian dealership was quoting EACH lower ball joint at $250 (before tax), luckily I saw this video and gave the kit Part number and it cost $200 (before tax) for the kit. Thank you!
Nice!!
Where did you get the kit in Canada? I'm in the same boat
@@tylerd281 From my local Toyota dealership (unless you saw this video, they won't mention the kit)
Glad I found the video as I wait for a tow truck since my ball joint decided today was the day
Dude, you are helping me incredibly with my two 4runners. But I'm not gonna lie, you crack me up wearing no shoes working on trucks! Keep up the great vids. You're a fabulous teacher.
Thx for tuning in and glad I could help. Lol it was a hot day and barefoot wrenching was kinda nice
"Its an Asian thing" according to my homeboy 😂
This is a great tutorial. I like how you are pragmatic about what the manual says, and what most people actually do.
With the right tools (23mm and 33mm ball joint press, breaker bar, cotter pin puller) the job takes about an hour per side and is no more complicated than changing brake pads and discs.
I try to research the topic and find common or easy ways to accomplish the task for y’all.
This was an amazing video.
Thorough, detailed, great video angles.
No idea why someone gave a thumbs down.
I’d love to see what kind of video is acceptable for them.
Thanks so much for taking the time and the energy to film and share this.
I just worked on my car today, and I know filming it would just have drug out the process, and that’s not even ensuring I had great camera angles, adjusting the camera, explaining stuff, and then editing the video on top of all that.
Thanks again - a lot!
No problem bud!! Just helping out the community. ThAnks for tuning in!
this gentleman is legitimate. thanks for the guidance and professionalism
You’re welcome!!
Best video I've seen in a while. Love it when you tell us what size sockets and wrench to bring before we get down on the ground. Gotta say that hand in the pinch point at 14:57 had me on edge......Mine is a 2001 Extracab TRD Tacoma, bought new, 255,000 miles. No rust, original alternator (did change the brushs but they were still long). I was looking how to check the ball joints, thx.
I probably could have secured that better lol.
I try to lay out the tools since I hate not having everything I need before starting a job.
Fun tidbit: I usually shoot that scene after the job is done. :)
Extra points for doing the entire repair barefoot!!!
Lol just some of it. I noticed the noise was coming into the Audio from my slippers so I took them off
Awesome vids tho man, very informative. Much thanks
No problem :)
2002 4wd LTD. 322,xxx miles, second owner since January 2013 and 144,xxx miles. Everything looks original under there now.
Replacing upper and lower control arms, and sway bar bushings along with ball joints next week.
Great vid, great editing. Keep up the PhoRunner content!
Thanks bud! Those lowers can be rebuilt with white line bushings. Uppers, maybe go spc/jba
@@PhoRunner ordered JBA. Arrive 28 June. Awesome customer service. Thx!
Dudeeee! you deserve all the praise, this is high quality and you make it look easy enough to tell your mechanic to get it right :D
Lol have them watch the video before they do your lbjs hahaha I’m kidding.
Great Video on how to! I've been running Moog ball joints for awhile with no issues!
I’m an old lady and could care less about car repairs. But…buying a used 2000 for a son so I started to watch your channel. And my other son is a mechanic. You are amazing how you present these problems and repairs. Very interesting! Well, I’m hooked now. Crazy!
I’m happy you are here!!
Yup.. this is the very first thing I replaced on mine after getting the car, and of course they were replaced with OEM Toyota ones. You can save a good 15-20% off if you buy OEM parts online. Way worth it!
Yes sir!! Good call
@@PhoRunner Great video by the way, an A MUST service to avoid catastrophic failure. I read in the forums if the car is post ‘00, there’s actually a service bulletin where the Toyota dealer will do it for free.
Yup I mention it in the video. The recall link is in my description to check if it qualifies! :)
@@PhoRunner Yes you did 👍🏻
I missed that part, sorry about that. Fantastic work covering this repair completely.
This is off topic, but I was wondering if your Climate Control Module (CCU) has ever failed. Mine is acting all crazy. I cannot turn off the A/C and only a couple of buttons on it work/do most of the functions. Maybe you could do a video on this? 😁
Is yours electronic? Mines all manual / analog haha
You're a savage doing this in your sandals. Makes me think I can do this repair on my 2000 4runner.
I do most of my videos in sandals lol >_
Thanks for the very detailed and clear instruction, my guess is you've done this job more than once before. Well done, man!
Most definitely! I have done it many times tearing apart my suspension :)
Excellent video! I plan on doing this job for my 4Runner. I paid $429 in parts out the door from Toyota. Using the recall kit, crown boots, and 8 bolts(recommended ones). I was going to buy the Toyota sway links but they were ridiculously expensive. Maybe another time. Thanks again!
That’s too expensive! Return it immediately and use my video description to get oem parts for under $250!
Very nice video! Our 3rd generation has 400,000 on it. Great point about quality control!
Yeah who knows! Toyota cut cost like everyone else I’m sure
I'm getting ready to do this and a bunch of other front end work including replacing the control arms. I just want to clarify, I don't need a ball joint press?
This video is incredibly informative, thank you so much for making it!
You only need a balljoint press for the upper balljoint.
Coincidentally; this was one of the first updates I made on my 99 4Runner. Besides changing the oil, I also replaced the manual and transfer case oil with Redline's MT-90, because it's GL-4 rating, making it safe for the brass rings in the 5 speed. I also did the rear diff with Lucas full synthetic 75w-90 because of better cooling properties. I changed all the drain plugs with GoldPlugs; made in U.S.A. mainly for the stronger magnet! I did order the lower ball joints from McGeorge Toyota in Virginia. Great prices from a dealership! I had no idea there was a recall kit! The main reason for going with genuine Toyota ball joints was that mine were the original at 328,000 original miles! This is why the factory parts may hands down be the safest bet, if you want to be as safe as possible. Thank you for this important information! I also ordered the 8 flange bolts and used the blue Locktite as a standard! Take good care brother! ❤🌄
Very nice!! I used 75w-90 Lucas in all my diffs and transfer case and have had no issues. I take mine all over so I want to be safe!!
I was thinking the Sequoia rear which I don't see why it would be different than the 4runner called for 140w in the rear?
Interesting. Maybe heavier vehicle??
@@PhoRunner you have me wondering now if I am remembering correctly. I am going to go look at the owners manual or service manual.
@@PhoRunner Went and looked at my 2004 Sequoia owners manual. It says "Rear Differential 75w140 synthetic"
Don't feel crazy now. The front it lists as 75w90...but I don't wave 4wd so that doesn't matter to me.
Thank you for this video! Doing my surf soon!
Anyone wondering if these are the same part numbers for a 3rd gen Toyota Surf (KZN185)…the answer is yes. 😊
Nice!
Had this happen twice while driving. Thank God I was going slow both times! Once the ball joint breaks its game over , you're stranded cause the freaking tire comes off the car! Good video. Thanks for torque specs
Yikes! Sometimes you can strap it back together if it’s not too bad of a catastrophe
The moog 555 greasable lower ball joints work extremely well been using 1 set on each if my rigs for 5 plus years now I grease then after every oil change
Good to know
@@chuckerchuckerton7046 the ones I was talking about are still made by moog
Check that the Moog LBJs you get have the 555 mark and look like the set in this video. Moog also ships non-555 LBJs but the castings look like crap and have a domed cover on the bottom side (the one shown in this video have a flat cover).
I liked your video so much I almost bought the parts on the link and then realized I have a 2005 Sequoia.
Lol!
Awesome video as usual! Just swapped mine out over the weekend but then discovered my outer tie rod boots were torn. New project and waiting for parts….
All good. Baby steps. Moog is fine for this hehe
I was never aware of this issue until it happened to me in my 97 Tacoma. Just turned into a parking lot and Thump. I also have a 97 4Runner and my wife drives a 2000 4Runner. I guess I’m going to do this repair on two more vehicles.
Hell yea my favorite 4runner chanel finally putting some video out . Glad to see you back my dude
Thanks man. Been busy hehe. Thanks for the support
@@PhoRunner we here waiting for your uploads brotha keep em coming . Great video bro
got my ball joints replaced at 90k. and I will do it inline with water pump/ radiator replacements. doing everything together makes the car feel much newer.
Yeah! Nice
That's a good idea to do lower ball joint when you do your timing belt.
It’s a good time to refresh all components that can cause severe injury/damage/safety concerns
thank you for speak good and understand engrish language. u understand all.
No problem!
yes very easy follow your explain. and not speak very fast. thank you. very nice 4runner you own. my 4runner is 1991 4runner.
Proud owner of a 97 4Runner. Your videos are informative and easy to follow. Liked and subscribed!!
Thanks 👍
This guy rules
You guys rule!! Glad I could help!
Thank you PhoRunner for the Peace of Mind, now no more fear of the front dive boogie 😁
Anytime!!
I just picked up a 3rd gen today, definitely using this vid to inspect my control arms. 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Nice!
great job on this video…own a 2006 4runner… this video is what i was looking for instructions with good video to follow… your tips along the way explaining good and bad options … are clear for owners to choose their presence👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Glad it helped
Nice video. You are very explainy. I love the channel name. I'm gettin Pho tonight because of you. Cheers.
Lol I talked even more but I cut some out lmao. I realized my video didn’t start until 7 mins or whatever it was hahaha. Sorry all lol
This video just helped me change my lower ball joint in no time! Thank you for making this
You are welcome
I did these a few months back on my 97 4runner and fixed everything, didn’t think I could tackled before the video but it was easy! I need to do the same thing on my 98 Tacoma, LBJs look identical so I was thinking of just ordering from McGeorge again…if they don’t work I’ll just have a spare set for the runner lol but I’m 99% sure they’re identical
If I recall correctly, the Tacoma has a different part number!
The tie rods won’t fit if you order 4runner parts. Outside that, should be similar repair.
About to upgrade my 4Runner and all your videos have been an immense help. Thank you so much!
Awesome!
Thank you for this video. I don’t have the tools for the job, but I got the recall kit part number I didn’t know about! Saved a few bucks. Those 30 something dollars is alot for me at the moment. And the part numbers you gave saved me some time. Thank you for the video and detailed description!!!
Anytime!!! Sometimes finding the parts and info is the hardest part!!
Thanks from Argentina! Great material.
They are called SW4 here and run on a 3.0 diesel (1KZTE engine)
Looking forward for the UBJ video!
welcome!
Just had a passenger side fail 2000 SR5 4Runner 248,000+miles.
Think they were the original.
Bought Mooge replacements.
4 bolts 1 Castle nut 1 pin for castle nut
And red locktight.
Some scuff marks on inside of wheel.
Pulled forward about 4-5ft and loud noise. Got out and seen my wheel turned slightly Fun lol
Lol wow
Moog isn't what they were three decades ago. All made in china with questionable quality. You should redo it soon with OEM. Not worth your life and limb trying to save a few dollars.
@@Nessal83 Already installed.
Usually I would get oem parts but I needed it fixed then not days later.
Probably going to get the oem lowers and uppers when I order the oem rear passenger seatbelt as it is not retracting all the time. You are correct though, cheap parts are exelent for on the fly fixes but not long term solutions.
Don't get me wrong I'm not against cheap parts just the ones that I don't have to risk my life with lol
@@frankdelucey2137 yeah totally agree. Certain parts like this where quality is all over the place and for such a critical part, I only go OEM. But if it's rotors and pads or stuff like that, I go with a good aftermarket brand. Wish you the best.
Yeah. I’d be ok with aftermarket brakes but my aftermarket ones squeaked so much in reverse lmao. I had to go oem for those pads too
Thanks for this thorough how-to. After watching another video about the OEM bolts (both the original "green" and updated "red" were included in the testing) I went with ARP 35mm bolts (673-1004).
Nice choice
Very helpful thank you I'll be doing my son's 96 before he leaves for college.
Safety first!!
this video alone made me subscribe.
welcome sir!
Excellent video bro. Very very informative and again all the specs is a plus. Stay safe dude. Aloha from Kansas
Thanks!!
Very simple, very solid, and very specific on the detailing! Thank you for the helpful content!
Any time!!!
I had just done the passenger side of my 99 Tacoma and pretty much did it the same way, I was hoping that you were going to give the torque specs. They looked like the exact parts but didn't verify, I had heard the 1st gen Tacomas had a lower ball joint recall also. I have 140k miles and very slight play on the passenger side but of coarse I'm going to change the driver side also. Didn't know they had a kit so had bought them separately. Thanks for the specs. and thought it was a great video.
The torque specs are all in the description and overlayed in the video when torquing down
Appreciate the time you took to make this video! I guess I better check my 1st Gen taco with 268k miles. I don’t think they have ever been done.
No problem at all!
same here - gonna get this done on my 2004 Taco now. Notice on your Taco (if it's like mine), there is a squarish rubber boot cover over the LBJ. I was comparing with my 4Runner and thought that was interesting that aren't on those for some reason.
This is the ideal moment to do the tundra brakes upgrade too !! Nice video
Thanks!! Tundra brake upgrade is a nice upgrade!!
New subscriber and hands down the absolute best video on the replacement of the lower ball joint(s). Keep up the great work.
Perfect timing, was gonna do this weekend, and this and Tims video are perfect
Welcome!! Thanks for having us in your home!! Hehe
Great vid! Now you need to do a bush mech CV swapout tutorial.
A what now haha.
@@PhoRunner swapping out a front axle....just like this vid....but out on the trail....bush mechanic style. I've only seen a couple videos....but they not good like yours
oh yeah... maybe one day hahaa guess I put my hi lift to use lol
Great video(s) brother. I have a 2001 4runner that I picked up and have been watching a lot of your videos on getting it in top shape. Appreciate it! Keep it up.
Awesome!! Don’t forget to check out Timmy! He’s the legend!
@@PhoRunner haha Who is Timmy?
Timmy the Toolman!!! He has way more videos than I do on the 3rd gen 4runner. He also does way more engine work than I do lol
@@PhoRunner Thanks. I'll check it out. It better be as good as quality as yours!! ;-)
Definitely more info! He’s the man!
Thanks for the video, I really appreciate you making it easy to follow. God bless.
Glad I could help
This is a fantastic video! One of the best DIY Car repair videos I have ever seen!
Thankssss
I have a 02 Tacoma with 300k miles I’m the 3rd owner and don’t know the history of the truck. It drives great but for no more than that it costs I think I’ll replace the lbjs just because. I’ve changed all the oils and other maintenance so I’ll be happy to do this job.
Good to have peace of mind
You make the best DIY videos. I’m totally inspired to tackle my 98’ 4R projects this summer. Thank you!
thanks bud! I got a big project coming up for overlanding so stay tuned hehe
The pictures to scare us into getting our priorities straight on our 4runner is so right dude haha. Pay the 200 bucks now to avoid several thousands in damage, and the price for OEMs we can get for far less than the dealership would sell them.
When the shop gets done putting on my UCAs, I'm going to order my LBJs
Another great video. Hard to imagine this is just a hobby for you, but that's how it seems.
Just a hobby hehe. I actually do computer programming for a living
Keep old ones for Emergencies no matter what part you change is good practice
Especially the ones that commonly fail!
@@PhoRunner yep and you never know when a old part will save your but in the middle of no where
Thanks bro you helped me do mine! Just finished mine up!
Give this guy a medal l. Quality videos
Thankssss! Glad you enjoy
Top notch info. Thank you for your effort in putting this all together. I have a 2000 4x4 most likely on the originals. Any idea why mine would not be on the recall list as well?
Great Video...off subject I did the extra ground hack for the fuel Guage. Works PERFECTLY..💪💯💪💯👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice!!! Now you really see how bad your mpg is!!! Haha
Im getting a "click" from both front wheels when I go over speed bumps in my 97 SR5 5 speed (for over 2 years). Checked the suspension and everything looked good. Except there was a little bit of movement in the LBJ on both sides. Parts ordered from McGeorge. Going to install soon for a trip up to Trinity. Thanks for the great Video!
Cool. It could be something else but nevertheless, good maintenance item to do
goodness you have the best description and content
Thanks
Thank you for the clear explanation and part numbers! Excellent videos!!
Anytime
Thank you! Just tackled this repair and your video was extremely helpful 😊
Just changed mine out yesterday
Very nice
It happened to me (974R 2.7 3rz 2wd Manual Tran 450k miles). I had taken it to Sears for a battery test/warranty, when the tech pulled out of the garage and turned down a bank/steep driveway the drivers side ball joint came apart. Luckily he was going slow and only my fender got very slightly bent upward. I tried to get Seats to compensate but they didn’t of course. Replaced it but can’t remember if I did the other side too.
I dig your videos.
Totally lame Sears didn’t take care of it haha! Glad they took the hit and not you
Very nice as always man. I learn something in this one. Never knew they had a special tool to separate the ball-joint. I always use the sledge hammer 🔨. Great job my Friend.
Hehe nice. Yes sledge is the universal tool :)
Love your video. well done !! Would like to see how to replace the timing belt .. thanks 🙏
I’ll probably do that video later this year when it’s cooler lol
Nice video. I'm fixing to do this. I have a 99 4runner and I think they have put the wrong ball joint on the driver's side. 2002 it's a updated different part from 99-2000.
Thanks for the advice about the recall part numbers I'm going to order it just like this 😁
Should all be the same :)
Such a informative video sir ....... sir how to control cabin noise dashboard noise how to fix it sir
I'm not sure how address teh cabin noise or dashboard noise. Perhaps some old clips?? I used to have this crazy squeak in my 4runner too but it seems to have disappeared lol. Maybe all the bushing replacements soften up the ride :)
...very good DIY video PhoRunner....thanks for posting... :)
You are most welcome sir!!
Thank you for your great video. This makes life easier.
Anytime bud
Quality control was better back in 96 to 02 compared to now days that is for sure
The acceptance levels are probably a lot lower now than before.
@@PhoRunner yep
very important information! thank you!
Straight to the point, thanks for the video bro
thanks for tuning in
9:30 I have that same ratchet and have been surprised how durable it is
They work real good!! Hf makes decent stuff! I got them because of the comfort grip
@@PhoRunner absolutely I had a version of this that was snap on and I must say the hf one is comparable. I do all my own auto work and have used it hard for years and hasn't failed yet.
I love the lifetime warranty. I’ve only had an issues with the 1/2” flex getting wobbly
Great vid! Nice and straightforward!
Thanks!
Great no nonsense video. Thanks!
You are welcome!
thx dude,your detailed vid helped me alot, and saved me at least $1000. Keep up the good work.
Just me personally I wouldn’t use the Moog lower ball joints. I decided to go cheap on my wife’s Sequoia and the lower ball joint had a catastrophic failure about a year into installing it. Needless to say I ended up going with the OEM lbj
Oem gang!!!
Ball joints are a major safety part with any ifs veichle
This one specifically though! No warning signs :(
@@PhoRunner ik why im replacing my lower ball joints which have never been replaced
Thanks bud really specific on this job
It’s an important one!! Thanks bud
Great tutorial. Thanks for making it! I've ordered my parts and am about to redo this on my 3rd gen.
Good call!
I cannot believe none of these Toyota sites will let me look up a lower ball joint assembly for a 2007 4Runner. All I can get is the ball joint attachment without a ball joint! It's CRAZY!! Going to my local Toyota dealer tomorrow and blow his mind, because I have already been on their site as well.
Hmm interesting lol. It’s not a high failure point on the 4th gens though!
@@PhoRunner Got a question for ya. Ever seen a front axle that binds up and causes vibration, and it's not the cv axle? Seems like it's coming from the transfer case. All my tie rods and ball joints check good, and replaced the axles and hub bearings about a year ago. Not looking good for me so far.
Is it the front driveshaft maybe?
@@PhoRunner It was the CV axle. as soon as I removed it from the hub and bearing assy, it popped, and spun freely. I'm replacing it with an OEM axle, much beefier than the other one I had in from a few years ago, also installing diff and sway bar spacers and upper A arm to offset the bind the lift puts the front end into. The upper A arms will make for a better alignment also. Thanks for your time!
Nice glad you got it figured out!
DON'T PUT OFF REPLACING YOUR BALL JOINTS! I was traveling 35 mph around a curve and was 1 mile from getting on the Highway. The front left gave way, my first thought was damn, I didn't even see that pothole. Milliseconds later I realized my 2002 SR5 just collapsed. It was 6am on a Monday. Luckily I was able to safely get off the road.
My front left wheel collapsed and folded under my running board. I stopped within 150 feet. I had it towed to my shop,
I have been able to get the left front cv joint back in place. I used 2 Jack's and ratchet straps to lift up the A Arm. I could not temporarily get the ball joints back together. I left a jack under there for now. I was hoping to get everything back together and drive it ( 20 feet ) into my shop but no luck. I will just fix it in the driveway. Not sure of the collateral damage yet but looks limited. I have 287 K miles on this 2002 SR5, 4wd.
I have always read, Don't Wait to replace your 4Runner ball joints, it can be catastrophic. And always replace with Toyota parts. I knew my front end was in desperate need of attention. I feel stupid looking back. I'm glad I was alone when this happened. DONT PROCRASTINATE
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!
Glad you made it here to post this!!
Thank you! Great instructional video!
Thanks :)
Another great video. Great camera work, easy to follow, and great instructions throughout (and in flip flops 🩴like others have mentioned - nice!). I like the upside down castle nut trick - have not seen that one before. LBJ's were already done when I bought my 3rd Gen 4Runner last year (👍); however, I also have a 2004 Tacoma (original owner) with the original LBJ's, and this video has inspired me to replace those soon.
On another random note, have you ever changed the oil cooler seals/hoses (for preventive maint, possible oil leaks, etc.)? I watched a couple of videos on that, wondered why I couldn't get to the oil cooler to unscrew it, then realized the videos were done on 2WD 4Runners and didn't have anything in the way. Trying to find the easiest way to do that.
I’ve never done this repair before. Hopefully it isn’t too hard. I try not to replace anything that I don’t need to unless I know it’s a known issue lol
Hey, thank you for the video. I was wondering if that recall kit works on the prado 90 series and did that kit settle the problem of ball joint total failure causing wheel to collapsing
Hey Bud 👍 great job. You're awesome
Thanks!!!
I wish u were my mechanic 😀🌸
Lol you’d hate me because I take forever lolll
Excellent Video! Very Enlightening to me a new owner! Thanks!!
I've been admiring the Gen 3 for at least a decade. Recently I grabbed one with 270k miles on it. So now the owner/enthusiast education begins.
I didn't see in the maintenance records that the LBJ had ever been replaced. But I see the telltale inside tire wear indicating excessive negative camber. So at the least I'm going to replace both pairs right away and see what else needs it.
One thing I do notice is general slop in the front end. If I go over a bump or pull to a stop and then release the brake, I can feel feel play, where the front end seems to settle back to where it was before the event. What kind of wear would cause that?
Sounds like driveline clunk. Does the shifter move? Try greasing the drive shafts. Welcome!!!
@@PhoRunner Thankz for the reply! I'll check that out!
Mine used to do this and it was due to my rear spring sag. Once I lifted my 4runner, the clunk is almost non existent now. (Even though I greased it)
@@PhoRunner THANKS! So that's a helpful potential path to a reduced clunkiness, because my rear end also sags a little - on my 4Runner I mean... haha.
I sure would like to understand how the parts in the front end interact.
Is there any resource you know of that shows maybe a 3D simulation of how the stock 3rd Gen suspension works?
I don’t have any but it causes the drive line angle to be not right so it slips in the driveshaft and clunks after you brake hard and go forward
I just wanted to throw this out there to help someone out. I kept the castle nut on there, and when I separated the ball joint from the tie rod it hit the castle nut so hard it ended up mangling both the nut and threading. I think it was because I didn't screw it on enough. Just be sure to screw it in some if you decide to keep it on.
A few threads for extra strength for sure. Fortunately you should be replacing all those parts so it should be ok.
Do you have a list of other major things to address on the trucks (aside from the timing belt, oil, water pump)?
My truck has around 250,000 miles.
Check out my buyers guide. But this is definitely most critical
@@PhoRunner
Was just going through your other videos.
I was subscribed, but didn’t realize bell 🔔 notification wasn’t turned on.
Lots of projects to get caught up on.
Mine is stock, so haven’t stressed the suspension with lifts and really big tires (just a tad above stock), but it’s taken me everywhere (a 2000 and owned for 20 years) without any issues.
Gotta give it some love for taking care of me.