What a difference a good instructional video like this does. So many people uploading "technical" videos filming their face for a half hour and blah blah nonstop.
Haha exactly, Like, comment, subscribe, patreon, and download this app from the app store... The sort of video that annoys me, if im in the shed working on a car and fire up youtube i just want to know how to fix it not build up a rapport with someone aspiring to be a tv presenter.
Hi there, Generally i just go to the local motor factors. They tend to deal in more reputable brands. There is a lot of rubbish on ebay/online. The dealer prices are a lot higher which is why i tend to avoid them, especially on a 406 with the newest examples hitting 20 years old now.
You must change one of this parts every season basicly. After a winter, one of the droplinks always clunks. Routine procedure in our 406's Cheers from Poland!
***** Front droplinks i was changing almost on a yearly basis, this has been the first time doing any work on the rear suspension since i bought the car in 2010 with 88,000 miles it now has 146,000 milesCheap aftermarket ones dont last long at all, if you want ones that last a decent amount of time then the peugeot dealer is where to go, the parts are more expensive initially but they last longer
Excellent video as replacing both these parts is regular maintenance for a 406. One thing though... I don't think it's a good idea using copper grease on the caliper sliding bolts as it's petroleum based and will eventually damage the rubber boots on the caliper and cause them to swell. Think silicon paste/grease or red rubber grease are a better option.
Thanks If you buy reasonable quality drop links they should last an acceptable length of time, cheaper ones tend to be the problem usually requiring annual replacement. The calliper bolts go through steel even on the top bolt its a steel sleeve in the rubber socket. The bolts are ok to have copper grease on them but the rubber components indeed should not have copper grease near them. Silicone paste is surprisingly tricky to find here, but red rubber grease does a good job.
Thanks, the dark blue one is a GTX and the green one is an Automatic. I also have an S5 which i think was close to the SR trim level but had a 5 speed box for 1985. There are a few 305 videos on the channel.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Ah right, similar wheels to the SR, proper Peugeot's these. There's a burgundy 305 diesel estate still going here in Bristol. Glad to see these cars being appreciated.
Hi if you register for peugeot servicebox (make up details) they have all the parts diagrams available on there. However the bolt you mention is part number 5132 59 the dealers should have them, scrapyards definatley will, ebay also
BestBuildPC Power of imagination Im sure its some sort of composite, i have no idea why amongst all the other metal parts they chose to use plastic, but the plastic bit doesnt really break on them its usually the balljoint that goes.
I changed everything as seen in this video but there's still this annoying noise rattle coming from the rear axle and i have no idea what it might be. By the way my car is Peugeot 406 coupe 3.0 v6 with 207hp. Any advice would be appreciated
The next thing that would need to be looked at is the bushings in the arms for the rear suspension to see if they have any movement. Probably best to put it up on a lift to see where there is any movment.
@@DonTuliosS I dont know where you are from, here in northern ireland the annual MOT test the car is put on plates that are wobbled about and that is a great way to show movement in the suspension. Although those machines are pricey ive never seen a private garage with such a setup. Having the car lifted and manipulating the wheel and suspension arms with a pry bar typically will show up any play though. Best of luck in finding the source of the noise.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV it's the same thing in my country ( I'm from central Europe btw (slovenia). My car went through the same tests without any problems whatsoever. It's just that when I'm drivin on rough roads i hear the annoying noise from the back, it drives me crazy man. If I'm honest, my car did sit out in my garage for a few years... maybe something wrong with the shock-absorbers or springs idk. i tried pushing the back of the car down but it doesn't make any noise..
Can u share the torque spec from the suspension link? I guess it is bolts (Clamp connecting rod / Rear cross member) and I found 40NM and 65 NM. Can u confirm that to me? I am gonna change that tomorrow. I got all parts already including specially screws.
+Falco Momo I havent done this, its a video i always intend to do when i have a breaker in and the lift is free. Its possible to do the job without a lift but i need the lift to be able to get the camera under the car. Its not a difficult job, remove the middle section of the exhaust a few bolts hold the tank hanger in place which is probably mostly rust, disconnect the fuel lines at the top before starting this.
Mastic silicone for household applications will dry out. Silicone paste is good on rubber components such as brake slide pins. However here where a steel bolt goes through a steel boss on the track control arm copper grease is the stuff to use. I have used it for many years on steel to steel interfaces without any issues.
I replaced both sides from Rear Anti Roll Bars but unfortunately one of them got broken so I decided to buy them made of steel. I wonder why they made it from plastic. Bad quality and bad engineers. I coudn't torque to 40 NM.
The plastic ones seem adequately strong for the job, they are presumably some sort of composite glass fibre reinforced plastic which on old 406s seem to wear at the actual ball joints rather than the plastic part, the same as the steel ones wear. I don't know why some are plastic and some are steel. Possibly to achieve a different shape, save weight, save on costs. I wouldn't say the engineers are bad as any 406 is now at least 14 years old most have proven themselves to have been well engineered. Regarding torquing to 40Nm is this the nut itself? It will be difficult to do that unless you hold the nut with a spanner and put a hex or torx bit on the torque wrench to get it to 40NM.
What a difference a good instructional video like this does. So many people uploading "technical" videos filming their face for a half hour and blah blah nonstop.
Haha exactly, Like, comment, subscribe, patreon, and download this app from the app store...
The sort of video that annoys me, if im in the shed working on a car and fire up youtube i just want to know how to fix it not build up a rapport with someone aspiring to be a tv presenter.
Just repaired my 406 and all the noises coming from the rear suspension dissapeared!! Once again thanks for sharing the tutorial with the community=)
+karim paz Great to hear it sorted the problem
Great video mate! All of your materials are very informative and useful! Plz, continue! Brisbane, Australia is watching your channel! ;)
Thanks for this. Do you use genuine replacement parts or do you recommend a particular brand part? A mechanic told me non genuine do not last.
Hi there,
Generally i just go to the local motor factors. They tend to deal in more reputable brands. There is a lot of rubbish on ebay/online. The dealer prices are a lot higher which is why i tend to avoid them, especially on a 406 with the newest examples hitting 20 years old now.
You must change one of this parts every season basicly.
After a winter, one of the droplinks always clunks.
Routine procedure in our 406's
Cheers from Poland!
***** Front droplinks i was changing almost on a yearly basis, this has been the first time doing any work on the rear suspension since i bought the car in 2010 with 88,000 miles it now has 146,000 milesCheap aftermarket ones dont last long at all, if you want ones that last a decent amount of time then the peugeot dealer is where to go, the parts are more expensive initially but they last longer
your videos are very well made! greetings from Italy
Thanks
отличная работа. А что за смазка ?
I thought that bottom bolt was going to snap
Excellent video as replacing both these parts is regular maintenance for a 406. One thing though... I don't think it's a good idea using copper grease on the caliper sliding bolts as it's petroleum based and will eventually damage the rubber boots on the caliper and cause them to swell. Think silicon paste/grease or red rubber grease are a better option.
Thanks
If you buy reasonable quality drop links they should last an acceptable length of time, cheaper ones tend to be the problem usually requiring annual replacement.
The calliper bolts go through steel even on the top bolt its a steel sleeve in the rubber socket. The bolts are ok to have copper grease on them but the rubber components indeed should not have copper grease near them. Silicone paste is surprisingly tricky to find here, but red rubber grease does a good job.
Liking the 305 SR in the video.
Thanks, the dark blue one is a GTX and the green one is an Automatic. I also have an S5 which i think was close to the SR trim level but had a 5 speed box for 1985. There are a few 305 videos on the channel.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Ah right, similar wheels to the SR, proper Peugeot's these. There's a burgundy 305 diesel estate still going here in Bristol. Glad to see these cars being appreciated.
My dear I need to remove the engine wiring loom in my 406 mk1 Can you show me how to do that?
hey mate, great video! Is there a part number for the camber bolts? Where can i find them? Thanks!
Hi if you register for peugeot servicebox (make up details) they have all the parts diagrams available on there.
However the bolt you mention is part number 5132 59 the dealers should have them, scrapyards definatley will, ebay also
ebay link: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-406-REAR-STABILISER-LINK-BOLT-WASHER-513259-516904-GENUINE/372624543330?epid=1626871956&hash=item56c2274e62:g:x44AAOSwJD1chktO
I have 2 questions: Why this rear antil roll link is made of plastic? Isn't any Tightening torque specification for these 2? Thanks in advance.
BestBuildPC Power of imagination Im sure its some sort of composite, i have no idea why amongst all the other metal parts they chose to use plastic, but the plastic bit doesnt really break on them its usually the balljoint that goes.
Plastic head has snapped on mine both times I've last replaced them. Crazy design to have these made of plastic...
Many thanks, i will try do it .
cheers
Great tutorial!!! Thanks for sharing
+karim paz thanks for the comment
I changed everything as seen in this video but there's still this annoying noise rattle coming from the rear axle and i have no idea what it might be.
By the way my car is Peugeot 406 coupe 3.0 v6 with 207hp.
Any advice would be appreciated
The next thing that would need to be looked at is the bushings in the arms for the rear suspension to see if they have any movement. Probably best to put it up on a lift to see where there is any movment.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for replying, I will check that and I'll let you know if that is it.
@@DonTuliosS I dont know where you are from, here in northern ireland the annual MOT test the car is put on plates that are wobbled about and that is a great way to show movement in the suspension. Although those machines are pricey ive never seen a private garage with such a setup. Having the car lifted and manipulating the wheel and suspension arms with a pry bar typically will show up any play though. Best of luck in finding the source of the noise.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV it's the same thing in my country ( I'm from central Europe btw (slovenia).
My car went through the same tests without any problems whatsoever.
It's just that when I'm drivin on rough roads i hear the annoying noise from the back, it drives me crazy man.
If I'm honest, my car did sit out in my garage for a few years... maybe something wrong with the shock-absorbers or springs idk. i tried pushing the back of the car down but it doesn't make any noise..
@@peugeotCitroen2CV i recorded the noise that i was talking about...
Here is the link ua-cam.com/video/FACCjLnxwPM/v-deo.html
Can u share the torque spec from the suspension link? I guess it is bolts (Clamp connecting rod / Rear cross member)
and I found 40NM and 65 NM. Can u confirm that to me? I am gonna change that tomorrow. I got all parts already including specially screws.
+BestBuildPC Power of imagination Im not near my haynes manual, have you got one?
+peugeotCitroen2CV yes 40 nm and 65 nm
Hi thanks for your videos , i need how to remove a 406 hdi fuel tank.thank you
+Falco Momo I havent done this, its a video i always intend to do when i have a breaker in and the lift is free. Its possible to do the job without a lift but i need the lift to be able to get the camera under the car. Its not a difficult job, remove the middle section of the exhaust a few bolts hold the tank hanger in place which is probably mostly rust, disconnect the fuel lines at the top before starting this.
Should've put something under the caliper to support it's weight. Now all the weight is on the brake line, not good.
Aap Aap
A bungee cord ah yes well spotted thanks for the observant comment.
no grease, mastic silicone is good
Mastic silicone for household applications will dry out. Silicone paste is good on rubber components such as brake slide pins.
However here where a steel bolt goes through a steel boss on the track control arm copper grease is the stuff to use. I have used it for many years on steel to steel interfaces without any issues.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV the putty does not dry coco
@@aslanOFatlas2876 any links to said product?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV www.castorama.fr/mastic-silicone-transparent-300ml/5059340043692_CAFR.prd?storeId=1475&gclid=CjwKCAjwqcKFBhAhEiwAfEr7zZACUGhiZHogyrDk940qOdDrUfPBZbuf7dS-LqHxqIbAsYnetemSHBoCPCMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@aslanOFatlas2876That is household silicone, the stuff used to seal around baths or windows. What purpose do you use it for on the car?
por favor amigo,podrias poner subtitulos en español,muchas gracias y muy buenos video,un saludo
Hi, unfortuantley its not something that i could really do as i don't speak Spanish.
ok friend,thanks
I replaced both sides from Rear Anti Roll Bars but unfortunately one of them got broken so I decided to buy them made of steel. I wonder why they made it from plastic. Bad quality and bad engineers. I coudn't torque to 40 NM.
The plastic ones seem adequately strong for the job, they are presumably some sort of composite glass fibre reinforced plastic which on old 406s seem to wear at the actual ball joints rather than the plastic part, the same as the steel ones wear. I don't know why some are plastic and some are steel. Possibly to achieve a different shape, save weight, save on costs. I wouldn't say the engineers are bad as any 406 is now at least 14 years old most have proven themselves to have been well engineered.
Regarding torquing to 40Nm is this the nut itself? It will be difficult to do that unless you hold the nut with a spanner and put a hex or torx bit on the torque wrench to get it to 40NM.
It seems to work properly and better performance. I installed the 2 metal rear anti roll bars.