Great video. I was looking to solve a different issue with a Honda Pilot but your video really helped me understand the issue. It was helpful to see you slide the cv bearings out of the bucket and even just to hear you state what the different components of the cv axle we’re like the bucket! Thanks
@@DIYGuysvideo honestly, I have no idea. I just thought that this is the only thing Tha made sense considering I only started having the problem just after downsizing my wheels
After this video I changed both axles on my CRV from what I read it is notorious for that vehicle , I only had 90,000 could not go past 60 to shaking was stupid it started out mild and got worse thank you so much I didn't know what to do, balanced all the tires changed all the tires rotated all the tires nothing helped night and day after changing the axles thank you thank you thank you
Great DIY. Thanks a bunch. Am actually going through this problem with my 2006 S with 155k on it. Was tracked heavily with KWV3. Switched back to OEM because I dropped a wheel at the track and blew one of the KW. Was going to buy OEM but am going to try the swap. If that doesn't work I'll by OEM. Keep the videos coming. They're great👍🏽
Rewatched. At one point stated "for some unknown reason drivers side wears more" (paraphrased). Reason is direction of rotation of propshaft. Its like how drill rips out of hands when bit catches on something. Torque applied opposite direction of force applied. Propshaft torque forces one wheel harder into ground, tries to lift other side. If only drove in reverse, wear would be more on passenger side.
@DIYGuys first off i'm beyond thankful that i came across your videos! and I am even more grateful someone with another S2000 is making repair/diagnosis videos, and making damn good ones too! Your Half shaft spacer video saved my life when my S started to get that famous vibration not long after being lowered. I've got a question about some more vibration. As of the last month it seems to have this vibration, not a violent vibration, but definitely noticeable. But it seems to come on like almost exactly right at 35-36 mph and will then smooth back out over 40. Have you or anyone who reads this, have this happen before? Sometimes it will feel like it vibrates again around 65-70 but if i give it gas it feels like it smooths back out again.
Vibrations actually comes more often from the passenger's side, as that (right) side has longer shaft between outer and inner CV joint and wears down more intensively than diver's side thereof. This is the case with Acura TSX (Accord CL).
With the S2000 it’s always the driver side that wears faster. Why would a longer shaft wear more intensely? A longer shaft puts less stress on the joints because they are operating at less of an angle.
I'm having the same issue with my h swapped ek civic. I am having to have to replace my axylus every year. But this video has definitely given me some idea of what to look for
Experienced this after installing air suspension, even had to recondition my alternator...regret the install now. I'm going to try to just grease and see what happens because the sound comes and goes.
I have the same problem with my hyundai accent. The inner cv joint has a big play and the noise was really annoying. I keep on searching how it fix hopefuly this video could help me. Thanks a lot, Sir.
Good to know. Even after swapping out the stock AP2 suspension > CR suspension > CR w/ Swift lowering springs > Fortune Auto coilovers, I still haven't felt this vibration yet in acceleration. I guess I'm lucky, but at 112,000 miles, my car may have this issue soon.
Nice video. I never had a vibration issue even after using 3 different coilovers of various ride heights over the years. But I guess someday I may have to a CV bucket swap at some point.
Thanks, i have knocking which from the look of it could be in the bucket area that goes into the inner half shaft bearing. The cv shaft from wheel to bearing moves up down left and right So I'm considering a kit to change the 3 bearings and bucket out. Hope it's not thev half shaft bearing (that doesn't seem to be moving which gives me hope)
@@DIYGuysvideo ,, I have a 97 Honda Inspire 5 cylinder that clunks loud when moving from park or reverse . Original engine, and transmission changes out beautiful. It doesn't clunks while driving. Mounts are good according to the alignment tech. Mechanic said it is a bad tripod bearings. Any input ? Thanks
My ap2 has around 144 right now. I was driving at 70 and the vibration keeps getting worst as speed rises. The other thing I hear is common is unbalanced tires or bent rims. If anything, I'll check those before changing my axles. But you mentioned your cr is at 140k so maybe mines are going out too
Curious, did you have any clunking sound? My wife has a mini. When I grab the shaft near the differential and shake it, I can simulate the clunking heard while driving.
same thing happened on my TSX after lowering it, but bc its FWD its the passenger side inner joint that needed replacing. Cant switch the buckets on FWD because one side is female and other side is a male. I used a new oem bucket for my repair and that was 6yrs ago. The wheel vibrations are back and wheel balance didn't fix anything. I suppose you can also rebuild that bucket with a junk yard oem axle from a same model car that wasn't lowered?
When I bought my car, it had 1 oem axle (driver) and 1 after market axle (passenger), it was causing vibrations.. After I swapped both with after market axles, it caused more vibrations from 40-50 mph under hard acceleration.. I just installed the half shaft spacer and that didn’t work. Someone on s2ki said it won’t work on after market Axles and it’s only meant for OEM axles. I’m going to install used OEM axles and use the spacers. First I’m going to check the differential bushings.
Yeah aftermarket axles are mostly junk so I’d go used OEM for sure. You can inspect the state of the axle buckets before you put them on the car and swap if necessary
DIYGuys I’m using Duralast from Autozone! Someone posted it on S2000 Enthusiasts yesterday, ppl commented, “it vibrates automatically.” Some ppl have luck but it’s a hit or miss I guess..
I Hit a pothole about 6 months back. Can that damage this CV Joint you are talking about? It's slowly started making a noise about a month later. Now I am going to replace it in a few days. Just wondering what kind of noise it would make... I know the Clunk clunk or clack clack when turning on a bad axle... but this noise is different
DIYGuys I think he means the AC sensor, which is the part connected to the throttle pedal that measures the % throttle on dbw cars. I had mine replaced at ~120k miles.
Quick question. All same symptoms of worn inner cv joint, but trying to figure out which one. One thing I noticed is that when I turn left while accelerating, pretty dang smooth. If I turn right while accelerating, it gets very bumpy with vibration right away. Would this suggest left or right inner cv? I figure the right side is maybe under a greater angle from body roll, but left inner is probably under more load from the acceleration?
The driver side is the one that wears first. When you turn right you compress the driver side, lowering the car and triggering the worn area of the bucket.
I've got the same problem on my audi a6 quattro. Changing axles every 6 months or so, still inner cv joint fails. Dont have any clue why its happening...
I have an A5 think have the same issue it has taken me almost 1 year to find . Now the noise is bad and I get vibration when taking off . Noise at low speeds . Steering vibration when turning at low speeds at a car park etc
It's not only on acceleration. In a manual car if you don't put the clutch in when letting off the gas it will do the same thing because the motor will be slowing the car down so it puts stress on the axle also.
Change the front struts on my 03 LeSabre which made it right almost 3 inches higher in the front now every time I accelerate especially going up a hill my steering wheel shakes does this sound familiar to other people?
hello there. i have this problem in my civic es 2004. i found an axel to replace. but it not have tripod 3 bearings. can i use my exiting bearings for that? is that a problem?
Did you feel the vibration in the steering wheel? I am chasing some vibrations, which start at 120 kph in my rwd sierra. Its also lowered and I am suspecting the driveshaft(s) after renewing almost everything at the front.
A4 b6 wagon 272 000miles on clock i guess mine are finally giving up after my every day hard driving i am surprised they lasted me all these years with no issues
i have a vibration only in 5th or 6th gear and under 2000 rpm and full throttle? could that be inner joints or something else. If I shift late at 2500 rpm car just pulls hard and does not vibrate.
I have had a Subaru forester 1997 (automatic) from new (approx. 70,000 miles on the clock), that has been great for all the years with very little to do other than annual services. However, recently I have had a lot of vibration & shuddering on the wheels when making tight turns (left or right) but never on the straight. It is difficult to identify which wheels the noise or shudder comes from and I don't feel much through the steering wheel. I have had all differentials replace that has reduced the frequency but not eliminated the problem. We hope it isn't the automatic gear box but has anyone got any ideas what to do next.
I have these vibrations as well and I planned to only replace the buckets and tripod bearings since the outer joints are fine but I can't seem to find the buckets themselves as a part.
They're both pretty much equally problematic and in need of replacement, really. And it's a Fiat Brava, btw, not a Honda. AND I'm in Greece, can't import stuff from the US. And it's kinda strange, because, apart from the PO's swap to 15" wheels (14" stock), everything else is stock. I'm pretty sure the damage was done because the aforementioned PO's wheels were extremely heavy 7j alloys and the car is 1.242cc, which probably stressed the transmission and caused the excess wear. I've got 15x6 now and it certainly relieved the vibrations but they're still there. Guess I'll have to either find used ones in good nick or swap the halfshafts entirely. Anyway, very nice video, thanks for putting it out there!
Would you suggest regreasing the inner CV buckets as a maintenance item to help improve the longevity of the current ones on my car? I dont have any shakes and I'm not lowered. just didn't know if regreasing them would be a preventative maintenance thing I could do. Thoughts?
+Wesley Huss I'm not sure if it would be worth your time to be honest. Once the putting starts occurring the grease gets real dark from the shavings. Until then it seems to operate fine.
Same problem with my car.. However i am unable to find that whether its the driver side inner inner axle or the passenger side inner axle? Please help...
How often do you see the tripod joints go bad before the CV buckets are worn? I'm working on an 05' Highlander and the passenger side tripod joint has 2 bearings that swivel just fine, but the 3rd one doesn't. It sits perfectly vertical and the bearing spins just fine, but doesn't swivel at all. On the drivers side, all 3 of the bearings swivel. Is this normal?
My car have a clicking sound when I accelerate hard example from a full stop at a traffic light and if I am to press hard on the gas the will be a clicking sound. Is the problem this CV joint thing?
I swapped mine left to right to fix the vibration. I only drove maybe 50 "EASY"miles after I initially felt the first vibration......like I accelerated like a 10spd bike.. How long did u drive yours after the symptoms appeared?
The Honda service manual says you need to match the bearings to each race in the bucket, mark them during disassembly so they can be re-assembled back into the original bucket slot they were running in, is that important to do? You didn't seem to do that?
I’ve never matched the bearings to the buckets and it has never made a difference. I’ve also never seen it marked as significant in my research about the issue. Maybe it’s a precaution.
DIYGuys Thanks for the reply, have you ever had one of those harmonic balancers(rubber donut things on the shaft) fail and cause vibrations? Can you remove them if they come loose and carry on like normal?
Those rubber vibration dampers that are fitted in the middle of some Honda CV shafts, like this: www.civicforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=108669&d=1501482860
If you swap the cv bucket from driver to passenger, won't the passenger side be screwed up now? I feel like there's something I'm not getting...I think I'm going to try and swap them, so I hope you can reply!
@@DIYGuysvideo The vibration only happens around 60 mph under acceleration. If I left off the gas or accelerate under 60 the vibration doesnt seem to be there. Do you think this still might be a cv bucket issue?
+ayowser01 This becomes a problem after the ride height is lowered after the groove is made. So technically is your car was always low this wouldn't be an issue since the groove would be made at that low height. The more time you spend at the current ride height and make that groove the worse it will be once the car is lowered.
Right wheel on my car vibrates when accelerating straight and also when turning right, pretty much (noises and rattling became louder with speed). At whatever speed, slight movement to the left and all the noises and vibration goes away 100%. My outer CV joint is a bit worn but there is only very small clack only with sharp, right, full turn. What could be the problem? Bearing, CV axle joints, or both?
Haha :), no its Peugeot 309 diesel but your video was very helpful. So you say that my inner joint is bad (because I wrote that my outer clacks a bit)?
@@milojakulovic9335 driver side cv axle 100% man. I had the exact same problem i would get vibrations when accelerating and it would be 10x worse when turning right but left turns was perfectly smooth and normal. Even going straight i would get it but if i barely would turn left it would go away. Also when turning right and the vibration would start if i would let off the gas and just coast around the right corner it would go away. Mine didn't make much noise but the vibration was so bad it was basically unsafe to drive. Hope this helps you man.
Hi i have a knocking noise in inner cv axle.. did not open yet, but when i move it back and forth i can hear the sound. I know its a normal play but the sound? Does it need greasing or spacer?
DIYGuys , its not a s2000 its a mazda 5... there is play when i move it.. and you can hear the knocking sound on road on and off.. checked suspensions and bushing it was ll fine. But when i moved the axle thats when i hear the knocking sound
Ok, do you have the video what type of viberatiin. Mine kinda grinding sound start at 20 mile in hour a d goes higher. Checked the bearing nothing wrong, i can feel sound on my feet when im driving. Cx9 2011 has 92k
@@DIYGuysvideo no its like grinding and really bother i know the right bearing need change but do you think make nose that look from under the car where the brake and gas pedal are?
DIYGuys yeah the inner axle has play when i move the bucket but not the shaft.. I have a slight bent whee I found out recently im going to fix the wheel this weekend and see if the problem goes away. If not for sure I have this problem. All hondas axles go i had an Ap2 s2000. They are not well built imo. Had to change rear bearings, engine mounts kept going because they are located right beside the exhaust manifold. Also soft top was 5k lol i mean its an ok car.. If your single its good :)
Why not just replace the whole thing, they are dirt cheap. And you have it that far apart it's just common sense to replace CV Axles when they get worn you're playing with the clock and it's not gonna work out. Taking them out isn't easy so what's the point of doing this????
CV axles aren’t dirt cheap? You buy used OEM axles you roll the dice. You buy new OEM axles for 700. Or you buy aftermarket axles that are junk out of the box.
@@DIYGuysvideo okay, point is they are cheaper than you'd think, a good quality one from Rock Auto by cardone or surtrak is about 60 bucks. I stand behind my point. Cardone is as good as you're gonna get reliability wise on those axles
From my research aftermarket axles for Honda S2000s have issues mainly because they are solid while OEM is hollow and much beefier. If you don’t have a Honda S2000 your mileage may vary (literally).
This applies to both the honda accord, CRV, HRV, civic, s2000 and so on even to other car brands. Nice one bro
I don't own a Honda, but your inner tripod joint information was helpful in diagnosing a problem on a 2008 VW Rabbit (using tripod joints).
Great video. I love the close up shots and footage of the axles actually out of the car. It really helped visually show the problem.
+Forward Momentum Thank you!!!
Great video. I was looking to solve a different issue with a Honda Pilot but your video really helped me understand the issue. It was helpful to see you slide the cv bearings out of the bucket and even just to hear you state what the different components of the cv axle we’re like the bucket! Thanks
Thank u for this vid. This explains why I started suspecting my inner CVs to be bad right after changing from 17" to 15" wheels
Why would changing whee sizes matter? Assuming the tire size changes accordingly.
@@DIYGuysvideo honestly, I have no idea. I just thought that this is the only thing Tha made sense considering I only started having the problem just after downsizing my wheels
I swapped my buckets and that fixed the problem entirely.
After this video I changed both axles on my CRV from what I read it is notorious for that vehicle , I only had 90,000 could not go past 60 to shaking was stupid it started out mild and got worse thank you so much I didn't know what to do, balanced all the tires changed all the tires rotated all the tires nothing helped night and day after changing the axles thank you thank you thank you
Great DIY. Thanks a bunch. Am actually going through this problem with my 2006 S with 155k on it. Was tracked heavily with KWV3. Switched back to OEM because I dropped a wheel at the track and blew one of the KW. Was going to buy OEM but am going to try the swap. If that doesn't work I'll by OEM. Keep the videos coming. They're great👍🏽
+armando armenta Glad this is helpful for you! Thanks for the kind words.
Rewatched. At one point stated "for some unknown reason drivers side wears more" (paraphrased).
Reason is direction of rotation of propshaft. Its like how drill rips out of hands when bit catches on something. Torque applied opposite direction of force applied.
Propshaft torque forces one wheel harder into ground, tries to lift other side.
If only drove in reverse, wear would be more on passenger side.
@DIYGuys first off i'm beyond thankful that i came across your videos! and I am even more grateful someone with another S2000 is making repair/diagnosis videos, and making damn good ones too! Your Half shaft spacer video saved my life when my S started to get that famous vibration not long after being lowered. I've got a question about some more vibration. As of the last month it seems to have this vibration, not a violent vibration, but definitely noticeable. But it seems to come on like almost exactly right at 35-36 mph and will then smooth back out over 40. Have you or anyone who reads this, have this happen before? Sometimes it will feel like it vibrates again around 65-70 but if i give it gas it feels like it smooths back out again.
Torque converter
@@theKing-bw3re 🤣🤣🤣
Best explanation I've come across thank you.
Vibrations actually comes more often from the passenger's side, as that (right) side has longer shaft between outer and inner CV joint and wears down more intensively than diver's side thereof.
This is the case with Acura TSX (Accord CL).
With the S2000 it’s always the driver side that wears faster. Why would a longer shaft wear more intensely? A longer shaft puts less stress on the joints because they are operating at less of an angle.
Nice job- I did the swapping of the inner tripod cross bearings for my honda crv rd5 and it reduced the wobble
I'm having the same issue with my h swapped ek civic. I am having to have to replace my axylus every year. But this video has definitely given me some idea of what to look for
just got a s2k and this seems to be my issue hopefully! Thanks
Awesome! clear simple and straightforward. Thank you for taking your time on making this video. 🍻
Why not weld those pits and grind smooth; heat and quench for strength! Someone needs to try it, really! :)
I believe I have the same problem in my car bc is real low thank you for your video 👍🏻
I only get some Vibration when I takeoff then goes away thank you good video
Experienced this after installing air suspension, even had to recondition my alternator...regret the install now. I'm going to try to just grease and see what happens because the sound comes and goes.
I have the same problem with my hyundai accent. The inner cv joint has a big play and the noise was really annoying. I keep on searching how it fix hopefuly this video could help me. Thanks a lot, Sir.
This video is for Honda S2000s so I have no idea if it will help! Good luck
Good to know. Even after swapping out the stock AP2 suspension > CR suspension > CR w/ Swift lowering springs > Fortune Auto coilovers, I still haven't felt this vibration yet in acceleration. I guess I'm lucky, but at 112,000 miles, my car may have this issue soon.
+GPW AP2 Type-S well at least when it does happen you'll know how to deal with it 😊
Nice video. I never had a vibration issue even after using 3 different coilovers of various ride heights over the years. But I guess someday I may have to a CV bucket swap at some point.
Strange. If you changed ride rights frequently enough you may have just built one large smooth groove.
i had this vibration on stock ride height, slightly worse after dropping the car an inch.
I will be buying spacers and hopefully that fixes it
Good luck
Worked for me, thanks
Thanks alot Bro,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,such a helpful vid
+Blair Guinea You’re welcome!
Thanks, i have knocking which from the look of it could be in the bucket area that goes into the inner half shaft bearing. The cv shaft from wheel to bearing moves up down left and right So I'm considering a kit to change the 3 bearings and bucket out. Hope it's not thev half shaft bearing (that doesn't seem to be moving which gives me hope)
Swap the inner CV bucket, can it eliminate the little noise caused by the inner CV bucket being worn out?
thank you for this channel
+RobsCarLife you're welcome
Great instructions and advice.
Glad you liked it!
@@DIYGuysvideo ,, I have a 97 Honda Inspire 5 cylinder that clunks loud when moving from park or reverse . Original engine, and transmission changes out beautiful. It doesn't clunks while driving. Mounts are good according to the alignment tech. Mechanic said it is a bad tripod bearings. Any input ? Thanks
No input. Good luck!
My ap2 has around 144 right now. I was driving at 70 and the vibration keeps getting worst as speed rises. The other thing I hear is common is unbalanced tires or bent rims. If anything, I'll check those before changing my axles. But you mentioned your cr is at 140k so maybe mines are going out too
I had a heavy rolling noise only when came off the accelerator. I had to change the whole power train.
sounds like one of the sound i have, what parts did you have to replace? did it fix it?
Curious, did you have any clunking sound? My wife has a mini. When I grab the shaft near the differential and shake it, I can simulate the clunking heard while driving.
No
Thanks
Great video.. Thanks!!!
You’re welcome!
same thing happened on my TSX after lowering it, but bc its FWD its the passenger side inner joint that needed replacing. Cant switch the buckets on FWD because one side is female and other side is a male. I used a new oem bucket for my repair and that was 6yrs ago. The wheel vibrations are back and wheel balance didn't fix anything. I suppose you can also rebuild that bucket with a junk yard oem axle from a same model car that wasn't lowered?
You absolutely can. There was a shop that used to sell just the buckets.
When I bought my car, it had 1 oem axle (driver) and 1 after market axle (passenger), it was causing vibrations.. After I swapped both with after market axles, it caused more vibrations from 40-50 mph under hard acceleration.. I just installed the half shaft spacer and that didn’t work. Someone on s2ki said it won’t work on after market Axles and it’s only meant for OEM axles. I’m going to install used OEM axles and use the spacers. First I’m going to check the differential bushings.
Yeah aftermarket axles are mostly junk so I’d go used OEM for sure. You can inspect the state of the axle buckets before you put them on the car and swap if necessary
DIYGuys I’m using Duralast from Autozone! Someone posted it on S2000 Enthusiasts yesterday, ppl commented, “it vibrates automatically.” Some ppl have luck but it’s a hit or miss I guess..
I Hit a pothole about 6 months back. Can that damage this CV Joint you are talking about?
It's slowly started making a noise about a month later. Now I am going to replace it in a few days.
Just wondering what kind of noise it would make...
I know the Clunk clunk or clack clack when turning on a bad axle... but this noise is different
Unlikely
I put a washer back of the outa cv joint
do a video on how to fix or change the accelerator sensor.
+proraceer07 do you mean the throttle position sensor?
DIYGuys I think he means the AC sensor, which is the part connected to the throttle pedal that measures the % throttle on dbw cars. I had mine replaced at ~120k miles.
+ayowser01 Oh, thanks for clarifying that. I'll take a look at that I've never heard of it. My DBW is relatively new to me 🙂
I swapped mine over which made it much better but now get a decel vibration on the left! Worth trying spacers?
Quick question. All same symptoms of worn inner cv joint, but trying to figure out which one. One thing I noticed is that when I turn left while accelerating, pretty dang smooth. If I turn right while accelerating, it gets very bumpy with vibration right away. Would this suggest left or right inner cv? I figure the right side is maybe under a greater angle from body roll, but left inner is probably under more load from the acceleration?
The driver side is the one that wears first. When you turn right you compress the driver side, lowering the car and triggering the worn area of the bucket.
thanks a bunch!!!
I've got the same problem on my audi a6 quattro. Changing axles every 6 months or so, still inner cv joint fails. Dont have any clue why its happening...
I have an A5 think have the same issue it has taken me almost 1 year to find . Now the noise is bad and I get vibration when taking off . Noise at low speeds . Steering vibration when turning at low speeds at a car park etc
Good info
i have an awd stinger that is experiencing vibration after lowering under acceleration....sucks, havent drove the car since december because of it.
It's not only on acceleration. In a manual car if you don't put the clutch in when letting off the gas it will do the same thing because the motor will be slowing the car down so it puts stress on the axle also.
Change the front struts on my 03 LeSabre which made it right almost 3 inches higher in the front now every time I accelerate especially going up a hill my steering wheel shakes does this sound familiar to other people?
How difficult is it to remove the axle? I recently started experiencing vibration and it's only getting worse
Súper easy if you use a lift
hello there. i have this problem in my civic es 2004. i found an axel to replace. but it not have tripod 3 bearings. can i use my exiting bearings for that? is that a problem?
Did you feel the vibration in the steering wheel? I am chasing some vibrations, which start at 120 kph in my rwd sierra. Its also lowered and I am suspecting the driveshaft(s) after renewing almost everything at the front.
Do you need to conduct a wheel alignment after the cv bucket swap?
No.
A4 b6 wagon 272 000miles on clock i guess mine are finally giving up after my every day hard driving i am surprised they lasted me all these years with no issues
Thank you
شكراthank you
i have a vibration only in 5th or 6th gear and under 2000 rpm and full throttle? could that be inner joints or something else. If I shift late at 2500 rpm car just pulls hard and does not vibrate.
Where can I buy new bucket for my axles?
Honda but they are too expensive. You are better off buying rebuilt axles from BalladeSports.
Great diy!
+John's S2K Thanks John
I have had a Subaru forester 1997 (automatic) from new (approx. 70,000 miles on the clock), that has been great for all the years with very little to do other than annual services. However, recently I have had a lot of vibration & shuddering on the wheels when making tight turns (left or right) but never on the straight. It is difficult to identify which wheels the noise or shudder comes from and I don't feel much through the steering wheel. I have had all differentials replace that has reduced the frequency but not eliminated the problem. We hope it isn't the automatic gear box but has anyone got any ideas what to do next.
your is still lowered after the changing out the new axles right? did the problem come back, because the axle are still sitting at different angle?
I have these vibrations as well and I planned to only replace the buckets and tripod bearings since the outer joints are fine but I can't seem to find the buckets themselves as a part.
At one time Ballade Sports sold them but they no longer do. Why not swap them from side to side?
They're both pretty much equally problematic and in need of replacement, really. And it's a Fiat Brava, btw, not a Honda. AND I'm in Greece, can't import stuff from the US.
And it's kinda strange, because, apart from the PO's swap to 15" wheels (14" stock), everything else is stock. I'm pretty sure the damage was done because the aforementioned PO's wheels were extremely heavy 7j alloys and the car is 1.242cc, which probably stressed the transmission and caused the excess wear. I've got 15x6 now and it certainly relieved the vibrations but they're still there.
Guess I'll have to either find used ones in good nick or swap the halfshafts entirely.
Anyway, very nice video, thanks for putting it out there!
Wow. Didn’t think non Honda people would even find this video haha. Good luck.
Would you suggest regreasing the inner CV buckets as a maintenance item to help improve the longevity of the current ones on my car? I dont have any shakes and I'm not lowered. just didn't know if regreasing them would be a preventative maintenance thing I could do. Thoughts?
+Wesley Huss I'm not sure if it would be worth your time to be honest. Once the putting starts occurring the grease gets real dark from the shavings. Until then it seems to operate fine.
DIYGuys thanks for the reply! love the videos! keep up the great work!
+Wesley Huss will do! appreciate it
Thank you 😀🙏🏿
Is it possible to put a spacer between the hub and axle to push the tripod bearing into the cup to reduce the wobble?
Maybe, but you would be adjusting the available threads for the axle to but to clamp down on which may be dangerous.
can a bad one also cause strange noises ? Like a mixture between bad Wheel bearing, tire noise and clunking ?
Hmm. Not sure. Usually it’s just thumping.
Thanks bro
Dumb question what holds the buckets in place?
They are bolted to the differential
Thanks for the video
+Yasser Adly You’re welcome!
Would this make a squeal sound, I really don’t have vibration but it squeals when engine breaking and switching gears
No. Only affects acceleration really.
bro thank uuu
Same problem with my car.. However i am unable to find that whether its the driver side inner inner axle or the passenger side inner axle? Please help...
It’s always the driver side in the Honda S2000.
@@DIYGuysvideo thanks for prompt reply 👍
How often do you see the tripod joints go bad before the CV buckets are worn? I'm working on an 05' Highlander and the passenger side tripod joint has 2 bearings that swivel just fine, but the 3rd one doesn't. It sits perfectly vertical and the bearing spins just fine, but doesn't swivel at all. On the drivers side, all 3 of the bearings swivel. Is this normal?
Hi CJ, I cannot speak for anything besides a Honda S2000. I don't think I've ever seen a tripod joint go bad before.
My car have a clicking sound when I accelerate hard example from a full stop at a traffic light and if I am to press hard on the gas the will be a clicking sound. Is the problem this CV joint thing?
No. If it is an S2000 check out my rear axle TSB video. It’s likely a wheel bearing issue.
@@DIYGuysvideo thanks for the fast reply dude.
I swapped mine left to right to fix the vibration. I only drove maybe 50 "EASY"miles after I initially felt the first vibration......like I accelerated like a 10spd bike.. How long did u drive yours after the symptoms appeared?
+Honda 2000 I bought my car with the problem. I think it had the problem for tens of thousands of miles since it was so bad.
The Honda service manual says you need to match the bearings to each race in the bucket, mark them during disassembly so they can be re-assembled back into the original bucket slot they were running in, is that important to do?
You didn't seem to do that?
I’ve never matched the bearings to the buckets and it has never made a difference. I’ve also never seen it marked as significant in my research about the issue. Maybe it’s a precaution.
DIYGuys Thanks for the reply, have you ever had one of those harmonic balancers(rubber donut things on the shaft) fail and cause vibrations? Can you remove them if they come loose and carry on like normal?
Are you referring to the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) or something on the axle. I’m not aware of any donut thing on the axle.
Those rubber vibration dampers that are fitted in the middle of some Honda CV shafts, like this: www.civicforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=108669&d=1501482860
Not sure. I don’t believe we have those on the S2000.
I had to diy it .it’s just basics swapped the 3 bearings and barabigbaraboom
Currently thinking this is my issue on my Volvo s40 after slamming it
If you swap the cv bucket from driver to passenger, won't the passenger side be screwed up now? I feel like there's something I'm not getting...I think I'm going to try and swap them, so I hope you can reply!
The bearing rides on a different position of the bucket on the passenger side so it won’t ride on the screwed up part.
@@DIYGuysvideo The vibration only happens around 60 mph under acceleration. If I left off the gas or accelerate under 60 the vibration doesnt seem to be there. Do you think this still might be a cv bucket issue?
@@4sky Yep. It should get worse with speed so see if you still feel it at 70,80, etc.
My Honda S2000 only vibrates when it’s under a load ( lugging ) it clears up when the rpm’s are up any ideas ?????
Axle cups...
I am not looking forward to the day I experience this vibration. The lower the ride height, the more pronounced and the sooner it can happen, right?
+ayowser01 This becomes a problem after the ride height is lowered after the groove is made. So technically is your car was always low this wouldn't be an issue since the groove would be made at that low height. The more time you spend at the current ride height and make that groove the worse it will be once the car is lowered.
Right wheel on my car vibrates when accelerating straight and also when turning right, pretty much (noises and rattling became louder with speed). At whatever speed, slight movement to the left and all the noises and vibration goes away 100%. My outer CV joint is a bit worn but there is only very small clack only with sharp, right, full turn. What could be the problem? Bearing, CV axle joints, or both?
Both. Is this a Honda S2000?
Haha :), no its Peugeot 309 diesel but your video was very helpful. So you say that my inner joint is bad (because I wrote that my outer clacks a bit)?
@@milojakulovic9335 driver side cv axle 100% man. I had the exact same problem i would get vibrations when accelerating and it would be 10x worse when turning right but left turns was perfectly smooth and normal. Even going straight i would get it but if i barely would turn left it would go away. Also when turning right and the vibration would start if i would let off the gas and just coast around the right corner it would go away. Mine didn't make much noise but the vibration was so bad it was basically unsafe to drive. Hope this helps you man.
Hi i have a knocking noise in inner cv axle.. did not open yet, but when i move it back and forth i can hear the sound. I know its a normal play but the sound? Does it need greasing or spacer?
The axles are meant to move so play is normal. They only cause the vibrations under load which I don’t think you can relocate. Is this an s2000?
DIYGuys , its not a s2000 its a mazda 5... there is play when i move it.. and you can hear the knocking sound on road on and off.. checked suspensions and bushing it was ll fine. But when i moved the axle thats when i hear the knocking sound
This video is specifically for the S2000 so I can’t really say anything for miatas.
Not sure.
Ok, do you have the video what type of viberatiin. Mine kinda grinding sound start at 20 mile in hour a d goes higher. Checked the bearing nothing wrong, i can feel sound on my feet when im driving. Cx9 2011 has 92k
It’s like a thumping that shakes the whole car. Not sure if applicable to the cx9 tho. I’m a Honda S2000 guy
@@DIYGuysvideo no its like grinding and really bother i know the right bearing need change but do you think make nose that look from under the car where the brake and gas pedal are?
Hey did you figure out what that grinding sound is, I'm have the same problem with my vehicle.
my car dosnt vibrate, the only thing i noticef on rough roads, i hear noise below.. So how can i fix this.. need advice!! new subscriber here.. tnx
Need a bit more detail
👍🏻
I have this problem on my 2012 honda accord hfp..
+Aiden Pearce Same symptoms or actual problem? Didn’t know other Hondas had this issue
DIYGuys yeah the inner axle has play when i move the bucket but not the shaft.. I have a slight bent whee I found out recently im going to fix the wheel this weekend and see if the problem goes away. If not for sure I have this problem. All hondas axles go i had an Ap2 s2000. They are not well built imo. Had to change rear bearings, engine mounts kept going because they are located right beside the exhaust manifold. Also soft top was 5k lol i mean its an ok car.. If your single its good :)
+Aiden Pearce Bent wheels definitely seems problematic. At least the S2000 motors are built well lol.
Hey I have a question
Raise the car. That is actually the only solution. There are no others.
You’ll even encounter this issue with cars that are and always have been completely stock height. So that is not true unfortunately.
My car is stock height, never lowered, yet at 171,000 Kms.....my driver side cv half shaft is toast....😬
Why not just replace the whole thing, they are dirt cheap. And you have it that far apart it's just common sense to replace CV Axles when they get worn you're playing with the clock and it's not gonna work out. Taking them out isn't easy so what's the point of doing this????
CV axles aren’t dirt cheap? You buy used OEM axles you roll the dice. You buy new OEM axles for 700. Or you buy aftermarket axles that are junk out of the box.
@@DIYGuysvideo really? Good new ones for my Buick are 45 dollars each side????
This video is meant for Honda S2000s only. Surprisingly a lot of non Honda S2000 people watch it. So for other cars and makes it may be possible.
@@DIYGuysvideo okay, point is they are cheaper than you'd think, a good quality one from Rock Auto by cardone or surtrak is about 60 bucks. I stand behind my point. Cardone is as good as you're gonna get reliability wise on those axles
From my research aftermarket axles for Honda S2000s have issues mainly because they are solid while OEM is hollow and much beefier. If you don’t have a Honda S2000 your mileage may vary (literally).
Thanks bro