Simple for me - I use the manual since I don’t have anything modified. I’m easy on the equipment since I typically drive the roads, keep engine hot, and usually cut my intervals in half of factory recommended OCF, and go early on trans, diff and transfer case (where applicable). Same with coolant. No issues with performance or “burning” oil in any of my vehicles which all have well in excess of 130k miles. My brand is whatever is on sale that is approved for the particular vehicle. Works for me. Great channel.
The fact you don’t have many subscribers shows how little people understand the importance of oil in an engine ! The amount of money one spends in a lifetime , to be able to travel should have you in the millions of subscribers !
Yes 👍🙌, I agree with you because since I have a high mileage (HM) engine a engine with 114K mileage my application required 5W-20 but, that is when my engine was newer now, it is over 75K when I need a top off I need to use for my application 5W-30 to reduce oil consumption. My transfer case in my SUV 🚙 requires GL4 or GL5 and rear differential fluid on a Honda you have to use Honda fluid. 🙂
Wow, look at those gear ratios (1.50, 1.23, 1.00, .88)! Talk about close ratio!! Yet, on a track like VIR, one cannot have a numerically high (4.11, 4.88 or short) rear gear and still hit potential max top speed without massively over-revving the engine, hence the huge clutch dump burnouts getting out of the pit box under race conditions with all that added stress on making those tall rear gears last. Again, great information, Lake; it all depends on application and using your head. And yes, there are those of us who still miss the real “Speed Racer” on the track; good to see your Dad in such fine fettle. As for me, I’ll take drive-ability over top speed/high horsepower every time. I can be hard on the throttle apex off and not lift as I drift out to the wall; they have to try and catch me, especially if I take a “defensive” line going into the next corner. And, with drivability, I can usually cross-over, get inside position, and the fun is on. Did that for a few years quite successfully in a very underpowered Mustang II. Bummer that the closest I can get to my version of a track day (and have a vague remembrance of what being on the track was like) is hoping there is no one in front of me on the highway on-ramps. Still scare the wife every time I get close to those Jersey barriers and I’m still sawing a bit at the wheel.
Incredible resource! Thank you for all the information! Thank you for showing us some race car stuff too! I've been considering the STLE testing myself. Have you considered offering a course for those who are interested in that career path as well?
I discovered that Motul makes a 75W-90 GL4/GL5 gear oil that can be used in both a hypoid differential and in a synchromesh transmission and that's what I've been using for the last several years in my Nissan 370Z. I believe that Motul is using EP additives other than sulfur and phosphorus that are so corrosive to brass, aluminum and copper. I also did early oil changes in the transmission and diff when the car was breaking in and swept the bottoms of the cases with a magnet to get as much of the steel particles out as I could.
I’ve used synthetic for the last 24 years. Just because Mobile 1 was the first (or one of the first) I started with and have continued in my vehicles. In 2000 had a ‘99 GMC 5.7 Chevy. Don’t recall if it was 5w or 10w-30. All highway miles and about 100,000 miles per year . Changed it every month or about 10,000 miles. Used either an AC Delco-Gold or a premium Bosch that had much better filtration. Something like 90% single pass at 5-10 microns and 99% multi pass. Got 421,000 miles before the transition failed. Engine was using just under a qt at 10,000 miles. Also put synthetic in the rear end.
I have a Tremec 6 speed and changed fluid to the Royal purple synchromesh and it shifted terrible. I drained it and put in Mobil 1 ATF+4 and smooth as butter. I think it shifts better than the OEM fluid.
Have you ever discussed hybrid vehicles and any special needs their engines have? Engineering Explained recently discussed this in a video sponsored by Mobil One. It claims that hybrid engines are a unique application that requires different chemistry. Many commenters challenged that as marketing BS since it was a sponsored video. Any thoughts on this? Have you covered this already and I just need to find that video?
Look at the headers on the race engine. 4-2-1 collectors. Add an x-pipe behind that for a street car and you have the closest thing available to tuned exhaust / 180 degree headers. Ferrari sounds! Don't need much overlap with that exhaust! Long exhaust pipes scavenge at low rpm. Short scavenges at high rpms.
Hey Lake! Love the highly informative content you bring to UA-cam on lubrication. I was wondering if you have heard of the Australian brand Penrite and what your opinion is on their oils, specifically the 10 Tenths Racing with 100% PAO ester. It states on their website their Racing 10 blend is sheer free and thus eliminates viscosity loss over the life of the oil. I was wondering on the amount of truth that claim actually has. Keep up the quality content!
It's simple to find syncro manual trans fluid today, but what if your trans also has a hypoid gear differential? Old VW's for example. So many brands label the oil as EP gear oil but also state "improves shifting". I chose a gl4/5 labeled oil but not sure if there are better ways of finding the correct oil.
I may start using 10W-30/10W-40 engine when my engine reaches 150K because it will have more oil consumption because oil blowby usually starts by then. 🙂
Very surprised you chose a 10-30 and even thought about using a lighter oil to begin with. ive always been told any circle track / road race car HAD to have a 20-50 weight oil. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE elaborate on this. Thats free horsepower!
20/50 was used back in the day. Not anymore. Bearing clearance has become tighter, and rings have become thinner as time has progressed. That allows/maybe even requires, a thinner oil, andheavier oil won't flow as easily into tight clearances, or be wiped off the cylinder walls as easily. Might be more science to it, but that's the way I was taught.
I am wondering if you can mix Mobile 1 0W-20 with Mobile 1 5W-20? I switched my engine in my Jeep Cherokee from 5W-20 to 0W-20 and have some 5W-20 left over. I would add one Qt of the 5W-20 to 5Qts of the 0W-20 on my next oil change.
My transmission builder has recommended Pennzoil Syncromesh oil for my 04 Silverado's NV3500 manual transmission (also used in many Dodge trucks pre-2006 or so). I noticed that it is rated GL-3. Can you explain GL-3 & comment?
What is the best hydrostatic oil for zero turn mowers? Transaxle is a ZT-3100 and ambient temperature during operation is typically 100F. 20w-50 engine oil or dedicated 20w-50 hydrostatic oil is recommended.
@@MJF40but why hydrostatic or engine oil? Why not gear oil? Why not a high viscosity hydraulic oil? Been a tech for years now and rebuilt a few transaxles, pumps, and wheel motors. There aren't any clutch surfaces inside, just a pump, motor, and a few gears and sliding surfaces. Seems like viscosity and resistance to aeration are the most specific requirements and wear resistance and resistance to heat degradation after that.
@@Super-Dave-Outdoors up to you. I’m a tech too. Trucker, Tractor owner, maintenance and all our car and my truck maintenance. We all have the same sources out there. We all process it and come up with a decision. I just shared mine. Do yours. My zero turn does 50hrs a year. Just my yard.
@@MJF40worked on Mack/Volvo and KW/Paccar for a little bit. If the shop was managed better there is a good chance i would have stuck with it. Local mower/tractor shop paid better so that is where i am at.
You said the oil was up to temperature at 180°F. I have always heard that the oil was up to temperature at 212°F. So now I’m confused can you explain? I had put an engine oil cooler in my car and the engine never saw 212. It only got to around 200 most of the time so I took the cooler out, so I can get to 212 and up so now if it’s 180° and the engine is up to temperature should I put that cooler back?
Damn, just 16 comments as I’m typing this and already 3 of them are stupid questions that were either answered in the video or they just really didn’t read their manual. (One of them wasn’t directly answered in the vid, but is in the manual info which they claim isn’t there).
What kind of gear oil should I use in a 2013 Shelby GT500…I don’t drag it but I do get down on it when cruising on occasion…it’s rated 662 HP but again not racing or dragging does it matter? This car is 11 years old I’ve owned it a couple of months should I have it changed it had 2662 miles when I bought it now just a little over 5000…thanks for any help!
No matter how much guidance you’re given, you’re still gonna want the info spoonfed to you. Do a little bit of thinking and it’ll go a looong way. You repeated something in the same “sentence”, didn’t use commas, and were generally all over the place and not concise. 5k miles is nothing for a tranny, specially since you’re just cruising it and it’s a garage queen. If you want a clean slate and peace of mind cuz it’s eating away at you, just replace it with fresh fluid that meets the standards that the manual calls for, since 10 years is a long time. Have a professional that’s used to working on those ‘murican muscle cars do it for you.
There are no degrees of uniqueness. Things are either unique or not unique. Everything that is unique is unique in exactly the same way, there is only one of them.
Engineering Explained did a recent video on the specific demands of hybrids. I expect hybrid specific oils have specific attributes for their unusual operating use case.
OK. What about when the maker doesn't list specs, but only to use their oil? My 2021 Tacoma manual doesn't tell me a fluid spec for the transfer case, but only to use Toyota transfer case oil. That stuff is like $80 per qt! I use Valvoline 75w90 in differentials, but will a gl5 ruin my transfer case? Is the Toyota fluid gl4 or 5? Toyota sucks in this regard.
I find it hard to believe they wouldn’t state the requirements in the service manual. Have you looked at the Toyota bottle? It HAS to have the certifications and specs listed on it so… you can at the very minimum read it and already have the information you’re looking for that doesn’t seem to be there. Pretty sure the bottle’s not just gonna say “Toyota, Transfer Case”
Check out the video by The Car Care Nut on the subject of t-case fluids. Had the same question for my ‘21 4Runner SR5, used Ams Severe 75-90, zero issues over the past year of use, including a lot of time in 4hi and 4lo.
Anecdotal data: Changed the gear oil (75w-90) in my 2005 Corolla CE (206,000) on it's regular 60,000 mile schedule. Used Valvoline instead of Royal Purple and noticed that shifting seemed harder...then had the occasional "brrrp" going into 3rd when the syncros weren't fast enough. Drained and refilled with RP and immediately noticed it was easier and less "notchy" shifting and so far (after 5 days) no "brrrrp". Both oils are "full synthetic".
Simple for me - I use the manual since I don’t have anything modified. I’m easy on the equipment since I typically drive the roads, keep engine hot, and usually cut my intervals in half of factory recommended OCF, and go early on trans, diff and transfer case (where applicable). Same with coolant. No issues with performance or “burning” oil in any of my vehicles which all have well in excess of 130k miles. My brand is whatever is on sale that is approved for the particular vehicle. Works for me. Great channel.
The fact you don’t have many subscribers shows how little people understand the importance of oil in an engine !
The amount of money one spends in a lifetime , to be able to travel should have you in the millions of subscribers !
Exactly
He gets loads of views; way more than many channels with more subscribers.
That was brilliant. I learned more about lubricants in 25 minutes than I have in 30 years.
I asked for a gear lube review and you delivered.
Hoorah ❕ for gear lubes👍 Thank you you Lake Jr. I'm 73, Near Loudon, NH 🏁
Yes 👍🙌, I agree with you because since I have a high mileage (HM) engine a engine with 114K mileage my application required 5W-20 but, that is when my engine was newer now, it is over 75K when I need a top off I need to use for my application 5W-30 to reduce oil consumption. My transfer case in my SUV 🚙 requires GL4 or GL5 and rear differential fluid on a Honda you have to use Honda fluid. 🙂
No, you don't "need" genuine Honda if it calls for GL4 OR 5 that's regular gear lube probably 80W90.
Great way to start my Saturday morning
Thank you, Gilbert and/or Lewis...😀
Kirkland for our engine oil!
I saw the video of the vintage race with your dad. Pretty cool. We're the same age as well. 😁
Wow, look at those gear ratios (1.50, 1.23, 1.00, .88)! Talk about close ratio!! Yet, on a track like VIR, one cannot have a numerically high (4.11, 4.88 or short) rear gear and still hit potential max top speed without massively over-revving the engine, hence the huge clutch dump burnouts getting out of the pit box under race conditions with all that added stress on making those tall rear gears last.
Again, great information, Lake; it all depends on application and using your head. And yes, there are those of us who still miss the real “Speed Racer” on the track; good to see your Dad in such fine fettle.
As for me, I’ll take drive-ability over top speed/high horsepower every time. I can be hard on the throttle apex off and not lift as I drift out to the wall; they have to try and catch me, especially if I take a “defensive” line going into the next corner. And, with drivability, I can usually cross-over, get inside position, and the fun is on. Did that for a few years quite successfully in a very underpowered Mustang II. Bummer that the closest I can get to my version of a track day (and have a vague remembrance of what being on the track was like) is hoping there is no one in front of me on the highway on-ramps. Still scare the wife every time I get close to those Jersey barriers and I’m still sawing a bit at the wheel.
As always. Another great informative video. Thanks for the great content.
Incredible resource! Thank you for all the information! Thank you for showing us some race car stuff too! I've been considering the STLE testing myself. Have you considered offering a course for those who are interested in that career path as well?
I discovered that Motul makes a 75W-90 GL4/GL5 gear oil that can be used in both a hypoid differential and in a synchromesh transmission and that's what I've been using for the last several years in my Nissan 370Z. I believe that Motul is using EP additives other than sulfur and phosphorus that are so corrosive to brass, aluminum and copper.
I also did early oil changes in the transmission and diff when the car was breaking in and swept the bottoms of the cases with a magnet to get as much of the steel particles out as I could.
Purex detergent.... that's the brand I use. Not in my car of course but in my laundry. The stain dictates the detergent ;)
You're on the wrong video, but good information 😏
Now I see why, duh!
This is the wrong video, but now I’m going to try it.😁
I’ve used synthetic for the last 24 years. Just because Mobile 1 was the first (or one of the first) I started with and have continued in my vehicles.
In 2000 had a ‘99 GMC 5.7 Chevy. Don’t recall if it was 5w or 10w-30. All highway miles and about 100,000 miles per year . Changed it every month or about 10,000 miles. Used either an AC Delco-Gold or a premium Bosch that had much better filtration. Something like 90% single pass at 5-10 microns and 99% multi pass. Got 421,000 miles before the transition failed. Engine was using just under a qt at 10,000 miles. Also put synthetic in the rear end.
Just to add more confusion: Tremec T56 and TKX manual transmissions call for Dexron III automatic transmission fluid 🤣
Love the videos. Great info.
I have a Tremec 6 speed and changed fluid to the Royal purple synchromesh and it shifted terrible. I drained it and put in Mobil 1 ATF+4 and smooth as butter. I think it shifts better than the OEM fluid.
Why ATF+4? Is it a Mopar?
Your channel is where every video is a true work of art. Thank you for your creative energy and passion!😱☘️🫒
Have you ever discussed hybrid vehicles and any special needs their engines have? Engineering Explained recently discussed this in a video sponsored by Mobil One. It claims that hybrid engines are a unique application that requires different chemistry. Many commenters challenged that as marketing BS since it was a sponsored video. Any thoughts on this? Have you covered this already and I just need to find that video?
About time Lake. Been waiting for another cracking video.
A little off topic, but my god very few things sound as good as a NASCAR V8.
The big carb would be great on a long oval speedway, the application (raceway) sure dictated the medium.
Look at the headers on the race engine. 4-2-1 collectors. Add an x-pipe behind that for a street car and you have the closest thing available to tuned exhaust / 180 degree headers. Ferrari sounds! Don't need much overlap with that exhaust! Long exhaust pipes scavenge at low rpm. Short scavenges at high rpms.
Are you related to Runt Pitman? :) You get it?
Hey Lake! Love the highly informative content you bring to UA-cam on lubrication. I was wondering if you have heard of the Australian brand Penrite and what your opinion is on their oils, specifically the 10 Tenths Racing with 100% PAO ester. It states on their website their Racing 10 blend is sheer free and thus eliminates viscosity loss over the life of the oil. I was wondering on the amount of truth that claim actually has. Keep up the quality content!
PAO with a bit of Ester is a high quality base.
It's simple to find syncro manual trans fluid today, but what if your trans also has a hypoid gear differential? Old VW's for example. So many brands label the oil as EP gear oil but also state "improves shifting". I chose a gl4/5 labeled oil but not sure if there are better ways of finding the correct oil.
I may start using 10W-30/10W-40 engine when my engine reaches 150K because it will have more oil consumption because oil blowby usually starts by then. 🙂
What's the best oil to use on hinges?
The number one coolest name in the history of racing is Lake Speed. Who do you think has a better name?
Dick Trickle is up there on that list
Speed Racer
Very surprised you chose a 10-30 and even thought about using a lighter oil to begin with. ive always been told any circle track / road race car HAD to have a 20-50 weight oil. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE elaborate on this. Thats free horsepower!
20/50 was used back in the day. Not anymore. Bearing clearance has become tighter, and rings have become thinner as time has progressed. That allows/maybe even requires, a thinner oil, andheavier oil won't flow as easily into tight clearances, or be wiped off the cylinder walls as easily. Might be more science to it, but that's the way I was taught.
20W50 creates more heat at the bearing interface. Besides creating more internal oil drag.
Also, clearances are somewhat tighter, but more importantly they are more accurate with better surface finishes.
Can you make a recommendation for the 3.4 twin turbo Toyota tundra? Or atleast turbo engines in general?
I am wondering if you can mix Mobile 1 0W-20 with Mobile 1 5W-20? I switched my engine in my Jeep Cherokee from 5W-20 to 0W-20 and have some 5W-20 left over. I would add one Qt of the 5W-20 to 5Qts of the 0W-20 on my next oil change.
Do we need different viscosity or different Chem engine oil for LPG fueled car?
curious about the delta between dyno headers and the race headers.
My transmission builder has recommended Pennzoil Syncromesh oil for my 04 Silverado's NV3500 manual transmission (also used in many Dodge trucks pre-2006 or so). I noticed that it is rated GL-3. Can you explain GL-3 & comment?
I've got a 70's MG Midget and the synchronized trans rec is 30wt engine oil. How does the work?
someone on youtube: "so what you saying is, valvoline is the best brand"
It is
Aramco Saudi Valvoline oil co. ?
@@oneninerniner3427 what does this has to do with the fact the there oil quality is top notch?
No, the Valvoline bottle that still has the American flag. Plus, whatever oil you use gets it's base out from oversees. Hypocrisy is a bitch.
But many of us do not trust what manufacturers say because of emission standards.
Have you ever tested 2 cycle oil?
What is the best hydrostatic oil for zero turn mowers? Transaxle is a ZT-3100 and ambient temperature during operation is typically 100F. 20w-50 engine oil or dedicated 20w-50 hydrostatic oil is recommended.
Just changed it around 75-100hrs and then 250hrs. Manual probably says 500hrs. Fresh oil is best. I have ZT3400 and will change with Amsoil hydro
@@MJF40but why hydrostatic or engine oil? Why not gear oil? Why not a high viscosity hydraulic oil?
Been a tech for years now and rebuilt a few transaxles, pumps, and wheel motors. There aren't any clutch surfaces inside, just a pump, motor, and a few gears and sliding surfaces. Seems like viscosity and resistance to aeration are the most specific requirements and wear resistance and resistance to heat degradation after that.
@@Super-Dave-Outdoors up to you. I’m a tech too. Trucker, Tractor owner, maintenance and all our car and my truck maintenance. We all have the same sources out there. We all process it and come up with a decision.
I just shared mine. Do yours. My zero turn does 50hrs a year. Just my yard.
Mobil 1 15w-50 works great in my ZT-2800
@@MJF40worked on Mack/Volvo and KW/Paccar for a little bit. If the shop was managed better there is a good chance i would have stuck with it. Local mower/tractor shop paid better so that is where i am at.
A Prius should only be allowed canola oil 😁
Sooooo. On my old t19 put motor oil in it and 2 sulfur pills or 3 sulfur pills?
You said the oil was up to temperature at 180°F. I have always heard that the oil was up to temperature at 212°F. So now I’m confused can you explain? I had put an engine oil cooler in my car and the engine never saw 212. It only got to around 200 most of the time so I took the cooler out, so I can get to 212 and up so now if it’s 180° and the engine is up to temperature should I put that cooler back?
180F is only when he using a ELECTRICAL HEATER to warm up the oil when ENGINE HAS NOT BEEN STARTED OVERNIGHT. the oil runs much hotter during racetime
Lake what oil are you using in the engine
Damn, just 16 comments as I’m typing this and already 3 of them are stupid questions that were either answered in the video or they just really didn’t read their manual. (One of them wasn’t directly answered in the vid, but is in the manual info which they claim isn’t there).
I used 15w40 Rotella synthetic T6 in my 2011 F150 3.5 EcoBoost is that good or bad.
That's pretty heavy. Why are you using diesel oil in a gas engine?
What kind of gear oil should I use in a 2013 Shelby GT500…I don’t drag it but I do get down on it when cruising on occasion…it’s rated 662 HP but again not racing or dragging does it matter? This car is 11 years old I’ve owned it a couple of months should I have it changed it had 2662 miles when I bought it now just a little over 5000…thanks for any help!
No matter how much guidance you’re given, you’re still gonna want the info spoonfed to you. Do a little bit of thinking and it’ll go a looong way. You repeated something in the same “sentence”, didn’t use commas, and were generally all over the place and not concise. 5k miles is nothing for a tranny, specially since you’re just cruising it and it’s a garage queen. If you want a clean slate and peace of mind cuz it’s eating away at you, just replace it with fresh fluid that meets the standards that the manual calls for, since 10 years is a long time. Have a professional that’s used to working on those ‘murican muscle cars do it for you.
Read the manual.
There are no degrees of uniqueness.
Things are either unique or not unique.
Everything that is unique is unique in exactly the same way, there is only one of them.
Can you do a video on hybrid specific oils? I want to see if they actually make a difference or just a marketing cash grab lol
Engineering Explained did a recent video on the specific demands of hybrids.
I expect hybrid specific oils have specific attributes for their unusual operating use case.
OK. What about when the maker doesn't list specs, but only to use their oil? My 2021 Tacoma manual doesn't tell me a fluid spec for the transfer case, but only to use Toyota transfer case oil. That stuff is like $80 per qt! I use Valvoline 75w90 in differentials, but will a gl5 ruin my transfer case? Is the Toyota fluid gl4 or 5? Toyota sucks in this regard.
I find it hard to believe they wouldn’t state the requirements in the service manual. Have you looked at the Toyota bottle? It HAS to have the certifications and specs listed on it so… you can at the very minimum read it and already have the information you’re looking for that doesn’t seem to be there. Pretty sure the bottle’s not just gonna say “Toyota, Transfer Case”
Check out the video by The Car Care Nut on the subject of t-case fluids. Had the same question for my ‘21 4Runner SR5, used Ams Severe 75-90, zero issues over the past year of use, including a lot of time in 4hi and 4lo.
@@groundcontrol6876there is no published spec on fluid
Your videos always bring so much joy and smiles! Thank you for your talented sense of humor and your bright, infectious performances!🌍🌗🙏
W Dad
Anecdotal data: Changed the gear oil (75w-90) in my 2005 Corolla CE (206,000) on it's regular 60,000 mile schedule. Used Valvoline instead of Royal Purple and noticed that shifting seemed harder...then had the occasional "brrrp" going into 3rd when the syncros weren't fast enough. Drained and refilled with RP and immediately noticed it was easier and less "notchy" shifting and so far (after 5 days) no "brrrrp". Both oils are "full synthetic".
Amsoil
I also know a lot about lube if you know what I mean 😎
I buy only driven gp1 oil. 😂😂😂
First, I think. 🤔
Yup its you
@@stevetaylor9265 😂