Stihl ms310 w/ Bad Air Leak, Simple Fix? Sometimes You Are Good, Sometimes Lucky!
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- Опубліковано 10 кві 2020
- The old saying "Even a blind squire gets a nut once in a while" applies here? Or are those little saws just well enough designed despite the materials they simply are that good. You choose. Bottom line? I'm amazed...and that was real time.
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Thanks I have a 310 and this will help me keep her cutting for years to come 😂
I’m a Stihl man, have mostly pro Stihl’s but I do have the 311 which is the newer version of what you have here. It’s a respectable saw, can run a 20” bar and chain easy enough. Funny sometimes what fixes a saw lol couldn’t believe it when you just tighten it up and away it went! Top stuff!
I am a subscriber and love to watch a 1st class mechanic do his thing on chainsaws but it sure would be nice if he would quit bashing STIHL and trying to sell us all husqvarna saws. It is so entertaining and informative to learn the trouble spots with these saws. There’s good and bad in all of them. Keep up the good work fixing them.
Something interesting about the 029 039 ms 290 ms310 ms390 is the 029 and ms290 both have a 45mm bore the 029 and ms290 super has a 46mm bore the ms 310 has a 47mm bore and the 039 and ms390 has the 49mm bore. matching the intake boot to the intake port and doing a single pipe .730 to .780 inch pipe for the muffler and a stihl ms660 carb with a hyway 49mm popup really opens these clam shells up average cut i was getting was about 9.75 sec in 20 inch poplar, for the cookie guys. Havent had much time to do a video on the ms290/ms390 clone build saw. should be up in the next week or so hopefully. in all honesty for it being a open port 49mm cylinder and a home owner class saw this thing suprised me with a 20 inch 3/8 pitch bar and chain. Anyways hope these helpful tips help.
Have to love the easy ones! Those aren't bad saws at all for what they are, and as you said whole parts saws are everywhere.
How funny it is you found loose crankcase taps, last week I had a MS290 come to my shop with what was described as a loud rattling noise in the motor, I said its probably a bad bearing, It did start and run but was real lean and wouldn't hold a carb adjustment or idle setting, as you done sprayed some break clean only to have it die, i said it has a air leak, more than likely a bad seal, So I started tearing into it as you did only to find 3 loose crankcase taps with one of them having broken the mounting tab off of the chassis. After a quote of $250-300 for a New Chassis (tank handle) and Reseal the Clamshell for the repair the owner said just Keep It I'm not spending that much money.
A project video is always welcome, love watching a new video and maybe picking up New Tricks or Easier Ways
👍👍👍🤔🤔🤔
HAPPY EASTER TO YOU AND YOUR FAMILY 🐇🐇🐣🐣
Nice work Walt .happy Easter as well .I've been waiting a long time to see an other Stihl on your bench .still waiting for you to dig in to those 441 s you have stashed somewhere in that shop .have a great day
Good to know.! We run half dozen 250's & 251's, which there is a couple that will not idle. I'll be checking those screws. Thanks
Haha that's hilarious!
I'm gonna be replacing the engine in a ms390 for one of our state park guys (butchered spark plug repair )
So I'm definitely interested. Great video.
Yes can't wait for ya to rebuild the ms 310 :)
I built a Huztl ms 250, and was initially dismayed by all of the plastic. I doubted that it would run well or last, but I have been pleasantly surprised that two years later, the little saw that could is still running and cutting, just as a 45 cc clam shell saw should.
I like it when they are nice and easy like that take it apart and reseal it and it will be good as new. They are plentiful here in the UK so you never struggle to find a dead one I always upgrade the 290 and 310 to a 390 if they have cylinder and piston damage The 390 cylinder and piston Bolts straight on.
Not with my spark checker. I just plug it into the boot and put the ground clamp on a metal part. It is a 6mm checker. If it will jump across a 6mm gap it will sure fire a plug. I then get in a dark place and pull the starter rope and watch for the blue lightning bolts in the tester window. Just remember, blue is good, red is dead and yellow in between. If it is not blue I will reset the air gap and try,again. Still not blue I put a new coil in it. I am not playing around with an iffy coil.
Thanks for making this video sir 👍🏽👍🏽
Great job
Good video!!!!!!!!,,,,,Yes i like to see a tear down,,,,,,Thanks
Nice video. I am curious about the Stihl. I worked on a little ms170 for a friend of mine a while back, but that is the only one I have touched.
good saws 59cc...1127 series 029 029 super 039 ms290 ms310 ms390....sadly ive owned every one except an 029 super....my dad has had an ms310 since 03 ir 04 used as a farm/firewood saw and beat to death,i just rebuilt the carb and put in a new fuel line last month....
Awesome! Wood have loved to have seen another compression test after tightening it up!
The number would not have changed...
@@nickywalsh8492 no change coz under the piston ////case psi would change
@@pm270100 Right.......I understand the error of of my thinking, thanks guys!
It is a pita to get a clamshell saw apart. That is why most of my saws, today, are pro saws. I can replace seals and cylinder in a pro saw in less time than it takes to get a clamshell apart just to get to the bad parts. I would have popped that cylinder out and re-sealed the crankcase. Tightening up the case bolts may work for a while but it will start leaking again. Playtex MotoSeal works best on clamshell designs.
They are not bad to do. I can get a clamshell design Stihl apart , new bearings and seals in about 80 minutes. They are just that easy. I also agree about resealing the the bottom end. The seal is broken, it’ll leak again soon and possibly melt down.
Got any Huskvarna 550 XP Mark II laying around? IF SO ILL TAKE IT! I climbed with that saw one day when our Stihl top handles got stolen the night before and I have to say... what a magnificent saw. Most of the guys are now climbing with the 550 xp's.
Great work! I have a 562xp that is giving me the same issue seems great on once I let off the trigger it dies out and doesn’t want to stay on Piston looks good
Short blocks are both improved and pretty cheap as compared to trying to fix an older bottom end :) Here they are $200 retail. MUCH improved crank/bearings etc. SO if you have a seal of bearing going bad, just wrap your saw into a short block and be done with it, WITH a much more reliable arraignment. :) Especially if the saw is older than 2016.
Doing a series ON the 562's... last one built one up from a new set of cases. A short block is easier yet as it has the cases/crank/bearings etc. all ready assembled.
ua-cam.com/video/5n5Eu1vrcd8/v-deo.html
That’s why I hook up my spark checker, turn off the lights, and pull it over, looking for a good, blue spark in the tester. Most of my saws will give a blue lightning like spark all the way across the tester. Just remember blue is good, red is dead and yellow is in between.
Oil pump screws on a Stihl are 4mm. You know that.
I find them a good firewood saw i think you will like it as a project saw
The first thing I normally do on any used saw is tighten up every bolt, especially cylinder and case bolts. They love to rattle loose over time.
What I say to that? Put the bar and chain on it it, run it till she drops! Then turn it into what you want.
They have “hard” seals you use when you split the clamshell and “soft” seals if you don’t
Ohhhhh. I didn't know that but I think I have an idea what you mean now. So I bought a meteor piston & cylinder kit for a 390 and it had the oddest looking recesses for seals, it didn't have a whole lot of surface it looked like to me! I was wary that it wasn't going to seal right so I went and put 1184 all the way around the seals real thin. Sounds like maybe it was designed for the soft seals to just push in with no sealant? I didn't even know that existed? I couldn't really find good info on it so I kind of just guessed. I haven't finished the build yet. Got health probs.
Today I Stihl MS361 decided to race on with very high revs, so I shut it down before it blew up. I'm guessing it's an air leak somewhere, but I don't know where. What type tip is on the end of your wrench too?
I am glad to see you working on a Stihl instead of those orange POS. Good luck working on a ms290 clone. That design sucks. Wait until you try to get that rear bar stud out, so you can get the cylinder off. Not to mention removing the rear handle. If I never saw a ms 290, again, it would be a day to soon.
Another great video Walt. Just curious if you finished up the MS361’s you were playing with awhile ago?
Looking forward to the next video!😉👍
I did. never really had time to de-bug it, it had an air leak type symptom. SO I tossed it to the back of the line. Too many other things on my plate to debug those as I have the 660's and 372's. BUT this is a new year...maybe it gets a second chance.
I put a 361 together and am having the same issues.
The 460 I built has been a great saw.
Thanks! I really enjoy your videos, you have got me into a new hobby. I logged and worked with saws for years, but never thought of them as more than a tool before.
All the best!
I thought there wasn't too much that could be done with the clamshell saws. Muffler mod, pop up piston maybe? Good find regardless. I love it when saws follow me home and they work.
Nothing really wrong with clam shell saw for 90 percent of saw users out there. Pop up pistons are the ticket for them as dropping the cylinder is a hard thing to accomplish without a machine shop. SO those saw where the aftermarket is building pop up''s are actually EXCELLENT project saws for the performance oriented hobby type with out access to machine shop equipment. These are right there with the 49mm top ends and pop up pistons.....as we will do on this one I hope.
plus they are plentiful, cheap, and have a lot of aftermarket support
Would like to learn how theses saw are put together. I'm starting to work on an ms210
Those are known for not running long. I got one from a homeowner who barely used the saw once or twice a year for limbs down In The lawn. then it was about 5 years old. It
scored the cylinder and galled off the piston. I think 50-1 oil mixture and lean turning is the problem with them. I got the cylinder and piston on eBay then had 145lbs compression. I run somewhere between 40-1 to 45-1 and fresh tuneing by ear. Been piss pounding it on the brush cleanups and landscape shrub removals and roots. Absolute abuse. Great saw, paid for itself many many times. The
Ms 290 is the same chassis as well don’t forget to pull the one bar stud to get the motor out
Thanks, I would never have guessed but with those saws nothing surprises me :) Think it would be fun to put a popup in a 49mm top end and slap that thing together to see how long it lasts...
I think they are pretty tough saws. They have a fairly big crank almost as big as the 372 with bigger main bearings. They have nylon cages though
@@afleetcommand If you put a popup in a 390 , use 2 starter pawls and a compression release helps.
I built 3 of them with popups run strong.
Replaced the Mikita with a porter cable?
Not really....Makita is doing the bulk of the around the farm work and up in the new shop. Those Makita's are awesome! The porter cable was a gift for helping folks so there is some sentimental value there.
they are a bit heavy , but otherwise just put better bearings without the nylon cages , a 49 mm top end by Huztl and you have a very sturdy saw for little money , and an adjustable oiler as a bonus , smooth cutting too ,little vibrations .In fact if you don't have a crankcase tool to separate the professional series without damaging the cases it's easier to work on the clamshell ones , i buy SKF bearings in an automotive shop at a price so low that i always change them when i rebuild a clamshell engine .
You and Matt have spoiled me building pro saws. Never, again, on a clamshell design.
I just don't understand stihl engineers. They make everything needlessly complicated.
Just like Ford
Lol
well lets see it in the wood
I could have told you that the 310 had rather low compression based upon how easy you pulled it over. You do not need high compression to cut wood with a saw. Actually the low octane gas we have, today,
lol, i bet its a while before becomes a tractor saw. lol
I got $1300 to spend on us all what should I get?I will be using this professionally every day for 10 hours a day
Depends on dealer and type of wood. Husqvarna 390xp or Stihl ms661 for the hard wood in our area. Husqvarna 572xp, Stihl ms 461, or ms462 works pretty well if weight is an issue. I happen to like the 572xp and Stihl 461's as they are enough saw with a 20inch bar & chain and don't beat me up. MOST of my "Pro" customers opt for the 390's with 24inch Bar & Chain combo's around here. I have a 390 and 572 if "put your money where your mouth is" means something.
afleetcommand Thank you for your time yea I do a lot of work in mi I have a up comeing job I just ordered the Chinese 372 XP from farm tech but I just came into a job and got a decent amount of money from it so I thought I should go buy a real Saw If the clown gets all the way through the job I’m going to wait for the 500 I guess to see what the fuel injection is like A lot of work around farms so I run into anything from cherry trees to big maples pine I need something that will run a 28/ 32 with out A problem I always liked STIHL but I’m starting to like huskies I think they have definitely gotten cheaper over the years and I think the Huskies have gotten better over the years I wanna hold off for the 500 I but who knows
It won’t be a short video if you decide to rebuild it.😀
True, it has been passed over several times...just sits by the bench. I did get a 25 dollar 390 top end and a 30 dollar popup piston , I'll get to it some day. Partly because I said I would and partly because a LOT of folks keep asking. I was going to wander back to outboards, but maybe a couple of more saws including that one should happen first. Have two Johnson 70hp triples, a 3 cylinder 80hp merc and a couple of inline 6's to tear apart. Some much fun to be had, so little time... :(
@@afleetcommand if I had known that I have a new 49 mm jug and piston out in the shop I could have sent you. I tried it on an 029 and did not like it and replaced it with a standard 46 mm piston and jug. I would have given it to you. It deserves to be run by somebody and I traded off the 029.
@@afleetcommand I had to fix a 70HP Johnson about 40 years ago. It was on a mullet boat that got swamped and sunk in Apalachee Bay, FL. I got all the water out of it with a mixture of MOM and 90% rubbing alcohol. It ran again but it took a lot of work to get the salt water out of it.
Please save it and put it back to work!
Gave it away
If you reseal the crankcase MotoSeal works best, Dirko, second. Yes, I would like to see you cuss like this Ole Marine. Go ahead and rebuild it.
No, Three Bond 1184 is the best.
@@afleetcommand the reason I use Dirko is it has a little slower setup time than 1184 and it takes me a little longer to get the cylinder on than it does you, which gives me a little better margin of error. Not to mention the fact I have never had a base gasket failure with Dirko HT. I like MotoSeal n clamshell because it sets up faster and seals the cylinder to the pan easier. I use a lot of 1184 but only on certain things.
That 311 looks to much like an 029 and I hate working on them. You boys got me spoiled working on Pro type saws. You will be cussing before you get that saw apart and cussing even more before you get it back together. Those AV buffers are the worst part of working on those saws.