Good timing I was recommended this video, I need to make some thin boards to bed for a stool. I defiantly need to get some hold fasts and start using them for things like this.
You always give great little golden nuggets of hand tool tips and tricks and little things to look out for that actually make a big difference. Thanks for sharing!
@@RenaissanceWW while I have not been in woodworking all that long... reinforcing miter joints with veneer and saw kerf was brilliant. It leaves a beautiful look, is very quick and simple. Your video on hand sawing was what set me straight with my cuts.
Great planing tips for thin wooden strips. I make ukuleles and must thin the wood for sides, fronts and backs to 0.090” to 0.065” or so. A thickness sander is often used but in my low production hobby shop I have found planing and scraping to work well. Holding the thin flat panels can be a trick. I have contemplated a vacuum system but will the the hold-fast method you demonstrated first. Simple generally wins! Thanks for your videos and Lumber industry update podcast! KS
@@RenaissanceWW I don't know why we call it that but I would imagine it a very old term, all the joiners I have worked with have called it that. You know what they say your always learning even if that the name of joint or splines.
Perfect timing on this video Shannon. I just made a waterfall shelf in a tool cabinet and was trying to figure out how to route the groove for the hidden spline. I had all sorts of wacked out jigs drawn up. Just putting the two pieces back to back to create a 90 degree reference made it a piece of cake. Thanks!
Nice idea with the Plough plane thank you. I tried to do this individually without ganging the pair together and got it completely wrong. Thanks for helping me learn👍. Cheers Alan (Derby UK)
Very true, when you say about brittle hard steels. I like the hard steels, but in theses days im seeing that so hard is not as good. I have some O1 chisels with a 35~ degrees and they survive to a piece of exotic wood pretty well. And i have some LN chisels and with a 30 degrees they dont least as much as the O1 chisels. Im think to make them a microbevel of 35 degrees, because A2 is very poor in low angles
On the spline shown, the grain will be along the joint and therefore weaker than it needs to be. Would it not be better have the spline grain running at a 45 degree angle to each board ? That's to say cut the spline into multiple ' domino ' type short lengths with the base of the domino connecting to the base of each slot ?
Good catch. If this were a real project I would probably cut a short cross grain piece or several pieces stacked together to span the width of the joint. However I also contend that this spline is more about alignment and ease of glue up than strength. Certainly done right with the spline long grain crossing the joint will be stronger but with so much glue surface on a wide bevel like this and assembled into a box you will have a surprisingly strong connection. So if the spline just functions for alignment so be it. Still I'm with you and if one is going to use a spline, why not maximize the strength.
And if a box side turns into a case side we have a cross grain situation. Long grain spline should then probably be cut into sections with small gaps between. I wonder how glue would behave on a long short grain spline inside a case corner like that. Would it stretch as the case gets wider or crack and fail here and there?
Regarding planing thin stock: if you don't like to deal with the residue of double sided tape, take a look at the following video: ua-cam.com/video/C-PML0AOP1o/v-deo.html Two strips of regular masking tape with superglue in between. The masking tape is strong against lateral forces and keeps even heavy stock in place when needed but at the same time it's weak against vertical forces and thus comes apart easily when done without the sticky mess of double sided tape. In the video luthier Ben uses it for a guitar fretboard but in the past he has shown it works on even thinner pieces or in the opposite direction for whole guitar bodies (He didn't invent the trick but as far as I know he uses it the most).
Yes I've seen this trick as well. Still it fastens the workpiece in place and if doing multiple parts it can get tedious to have to replace the glue/tape strip each time. Plus I think the more you can pick up your work and examine it, the more accurate your planing will be.
Good timing I was recommended this video, I need to make some thin boards to bed for a stool. I defiantly need to get some hold fasts and start using them for things like this.
You always give great little golden nuggets of hand tool tips and tricks and little things to look out for that actually make a big difference. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Jared. What little nugget did I drop unknowingly this time?
@@RenaissanceWW while I have not been in woodworking all that long... reinforcing miter joints with veneer and saw kerf was brilliant. It leaves a beautiful look, is very quick and simple.
Your video on hand sawing was what set me straight with my cuts.
Great planing tips for thin wooden strips. I make ukuleles and must thin the wood for sides, fronts and backs to 0.090” to 0.065” or so. A thickness sander is often used but in my low production hobby shop I have found planing and scraping to work well. Holding the thin flat panels can be a trick. I have contemplated a vacuum system but will the the hold-fast method you demonstrated first. Simple generally wins!
Thanks for your videos and Lumber industry update podcast!
KS
Many useful tricks and techniques in this video. Thanks!
18:10 in Scotland if the spline is going with the grain its called a slitfeather and if its going a cross the grain it spline
That's much more colorful than spline and I now have to adopt that term
@@RenaissanceWW I don't know why we call it that but I would imagine it a very old term, all the joiners I have worked with have called it that. You know what they say your always learning even if that the name of joint or splines.
Perfect timing on this video Shannon. I just made a waterfall shelf in a tool cabinet and was trying to figure out how to route the groove for the hidden spline. I had all sorts of wacked out jigs drawn up. Just putting the two pieces back to back to create a 90 degree reference made it a piece of cake. Thanks!
Awesome glad it helped. I certainly can't take credit for the idea but happy to bring it to light
Nice idea with the Plough plane thank you. I tried to do this individually without ganging the pair together and got it completely wrong. Thanks for helping me learn👍. Cheers Alan (Derby UK)
Thank you Sir, exactly what I needed to know. Very well explained.
Great video Shannon! 👍🏻
Thanks , wonder how to make long spline with hand tools. Now I see why you where showing lefty jig the other day.
Great info Shannon. Thanks for this!
Great share. Thank you.
Great job and great tools, I am following you from Iraq
Great vid
Do you offer for sale the plans for your 45° shooting board?
Very true, when you say about brittle hard steels. I like the hard steels, but in theses days im seeing that so hard is not as good. I have some O1 chisels with a 35~ degrees and they survive to a piece of exotic wood pretty well. And i have some LN chisels and with a 30 degrees they dont least as much as the O1 chisels. Im think to make them a microbevel of 35 degrees, because A2 is very poor in low angles
Minute 21:27 , my mind exploted. This is the legendary geometry!!!
I have not seen the miter spline done by hand before, thanks for sharing.
Fantastic!!
I love watching you work! It gives me hope that if I keep trying I might be able to use some of my tools as effectively and efficiently as you!! 🤣
On the spline shown, the grain will be along the joint and therefore weaker than it needs to be. Would it not be better have the spline grain running at a 45 degree angle to each board ? That's to say cut the spline into multiple ' domino ' type short lengths with the base of the domino connecting to the base of each slot ?
Je me faisais justement cette réflexion. La fausse languette (= the spline) devrait avoir été coupée en travers du fil.
Good catch. If this were a real project I would probably cut a short cross grain piece or several pieces stacked together to span the width of the joint. However I also contend that this spline is more about alignment and ease of glue up than strength. Certainly done right with the spline long grain crossing the joint will be stronger but with so much glue surface on a wide bevel like this and assembled into a box you will have a surprisingly strong connection. So if the spline just functions for alignment so be it. Still I'm with you and if one is going to use a spline, why not maximize the strength.
And if a box side turns into a case side we have a cross grain situation. Long grain spline should then probably be cut into sections with small gaps between. I wonder how glue would behave on a long short grain spline inside a case corner like that. Would it stretch as the case gets wider or crack and fail here and there?
i might be wrong but i think in one of the books i read that across the grain was called a a "spline" and along the grain was called "keyed"
I've heard that too and it makes sense as that is what I would call a dovetail shaped key used across the joint.
Regarding planing thin stock: if you don't like to deal with the residue of double sided tape, take a look at the following video: ua-cam.com/video/C-PML0AOP1o/v-deo.html
Two strips of regular masking tape with superglue in between. The masking tape is strong against lateral forces and keeps even heavy stock in place when needed but at the same time it's weak against vertical forces and thus comes apart easily when done without the sticky mess of double sided tape. In the video luthier Ben uses it for a guitar fretboard but in the past he has shown it works on even thinner pieces or in the opposite direction for whole guitar bodies (He didn't invent the trick but as far as I know he uses it the most).
Yes I've seen this trick as well. Still it fastens the workpiece in place and if doing multiple parts it can get tedious to have to replace the glue/tape strip each time. Plus I think the more you can pick up your work and examine it, the more accurate your planing will be.
What is the name of the plane using a fence to make the cut? Great video!
It’s called a plough plane.
That is a Plow plane (on this side of the Atlantic, LOL) specifically made by Veritas.