T1N Sprinter Oil Change, Rotella T6 & Hengst Filter
Вставка
- Опубліковано 9 сер 2020
- 500,000 miles & time for another oil change.
Oil Funnel: amzn.to/3gKhDjI
Rotella T6: amzn.to/3akX3Ed
Oil Filter: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-532...
Music from bensound.com
Support Florida Van Man with a $15 one time donation or buy the Buyer’s Guide: floridavanman.fetchapp.com/sel...
Buy Me a Coffee: www.buymeacoffee.com/FloridaV...
T-shirts: www.redbubble.com/i/t-shirt/F...
More T-shirts: www.redbubble.com/i/t-shirt/I... - Авто та транспорт
Congrats on 500k!!!!
Congrats on your 500k mileage. So amazing. I use this oil when I change my oil on my sprinter and didn't know it came 2.5 gallons. Good to know this! Thanks for the tip.
Literally the best when it comes to T1N Sprinter maintenance on UA-cam. For that I tip my hat to you.
Thank you! We are donation supported and just got a new link working to make donations easy. floridavanman.com/donate/
Great job love the helpful information about the oil dip sticks. There are a ton of little thing like that which make a huge difference when working on these Van's. I'm about to change a turbo, thermostat, and do an oil change on mine tomorrow.
Thanks for showing such detail and explaining soo clearly
Always interesting and useful!
Thanks for this video and all your others! Not my first oil change job but the first on my van, looking forward to doing it now, at least we know it's been done right if we do it ourselves (but have nobody else to blame haha). Had no idea on the red / yellow dipsticks, that's great German engineering, had my van for 10 years and never knew that!
you are awesome thank you always for the help!
This is why my dash said hi oil level ..... I have the red dip stick and filled it to full when cold ! Thank you for answering a question I couldn’t find anywhere ......
Or it was just your van becoming sentient and friendly? Hi.
Awe I really like your video ..hope there's lots more thanks
Great video thanks
I’m just enjoying watching how easily you get up off of the ground still. Such good memories of days gone bye! bye! LOL! If you could do another video for us old people where you roll around for a few minutes trying to find the right position to get up it would be greatly appreciated!😜😜😂
just an FYI for everyone: "Mercedes-Benz 228.31 engine oil is excluded for approval and use in the Sprinter OM612 and OM647 Direct Injection diesel engines, as we have research to show that the oil on these sheets can have a detrimental effect on the components of the engine." Also, listed as not approved on MB Bevo spec sheet. On the other hand, I know a lot of people have used Rotella for years and continue to do so . . . . I'm gonna stick with old faithful Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40 (MB229.3, MB229.5)
500,000 baby
Coming soon, 2Blue van-tour. The 2002 that we Raptor painted blue, spray foam insulated and swapped the engine... is finally ready for adventure. It features a new design queen bed, 60/40 block-out curtains, giant sock drawer, jeans drawer, rock-climbing grab-ladder, roof deck and solar! The dash and cockpit are like no Sprinter you have ever seen!!! We added cruise control, one power window, screen window in sliding door, wood floors and walls, LED lights, RV leather seats. I'm excited about it!!! I drove it 260 miles yesterday and it is nice!
What differential fluid weight is good for 2004 MB Sprinter 2500
Thank you for the awesome and encouraging video. I did my first oil change yesterday and everything went smooth except for the filter oil cap that didn’t screw all the way. The position of the big oil ring seal is exactly where you have indicated it should be, but there’s no way I can hand tighten it all the way... any advice ? The gap is about 1/16
If the seal is seated, your cap is down as far as it should go. Do not over tighten it. Hand tight only.
Thank you for your practical and real videos about the T1N. They're the best! I didn't know about the red vs yellow dipsticks, so thanks a lot for solving that mystery for us ordinary folk. I bought my 2006 T1N (OM647 engine, 2500 chassis, 140" wheelbase) with almost 180K miles on it. Could you let me know how much oil should I expect it to consume, if any? Also, do you know about how much oil the space between the upper and lower marks on the red dipstick represents? Thanks!
Difference between lines is one quart. Hopefully it won't consume any oil. One of my vans requires a little oil between services but most will go 10,000 miles without needing any added. And that is time for an oil change with 2.5 gallons of fresh synthetic.
Do you have a video on preventative maintenance to go over for a new van you've just bought? I'm in the market and might have one in the next month. Watching all your videos--great content!--just wondering if one focused on this in particular existed.
Not yet, but it will be coming soon.
I love the filter o-ring system. If the space shuttle engineers designed their booster rocket o-rings half as accurately as Mercedes, space shuttle could have flown in below zero temps with confidence.
Too soon....! LOL Only been about 35 years????
Sounds ridiculous but this is actually true. Railway machinists union is actually part of the aerospace industry. I was a locomotive tech on the electrical end so I had a different union. But we would always joke - thank god these locos don’t fly. Our work was marginal at best. Anything that blew up (and it happens a lot when they pull uphill) we blamed on the damn o-ring problem.. kinda sick humor on the rails but that’s just how it is. Most ridiculous job I ever worked.
How about a close-up of where the small O-ring sits, and set the speed record some other day...?
The O-rings on the filter are really self-evident. If somebody put those on wrong, maybe DIY oil change isn't their calling?
Super originale engine mercedes sprinter
Is this oil and filter a good choice for a 2004 Frieghtliner 2500 with 110K miles that I plan to use as a camper van? Thanks and sick content!
Yes Rotella T6 15w-40 in warmer climate, T6 5w-40 in colder climates.
I have a 2004 T1N but I don't see the MB spec(MB 229.51 or 229.52) on the Rotella T6 oil- should it be used? typically I have been using a 5W30 synthetic, it does get cold up in my area(Calgary, Alberta, Canada) my van only has 159K miles, not really a high miler at all.
The official MB specs to look for are 228.3, 229.3, 229.5, or any of the x.x1 (low SAP for DPF-equipped engines) extensions. The low-SAP oils have a different additive package than the full-SAP oils.
I’m also in Calgary, so run a 0w40 weight for safer cold-starts.
I’m happy using any approved Mobil-1 or Castrol oil...
bevo.mercedes-benz.com/d/d/en/Spec_223_2.pdf
What year van is this? I just picked up an 06 2500. Will the same oil work?
Mine is 2005 and the same oil is great for all of them from 2000-2006 plus. We have had trouble finding Rotella T6 for about a year, but it seems to be getting better lately.
Anyone has an opinion on Costco Kirkland oil? It’s mb228.3.
FYI, that two and a half gallon container definitely overfilled my oil. I let the old oil drain for like 30 minutes until it wasn't even dripping anymore. Now the dipstick is showing past the top plastic part. I have the red dipstick and I checked it warm. Wondering if I should take some out?
If your dash beeps and says "Hi" it is not being friendly and I'd definitely take some out if* that happens. I'd like to figure out what is different about your experience from the many-many times I've poured the full jug into our 5cylinder engines. I assume you did put a new oil filter in. If you feel it is necessary to remove some oil I suggest replacing the filter as the new filter will absorb about half a liter without any risk of removing too much with trouble getting the plug back in while oil pours out.
Does the reset work for the oil change if I'm doing it early on my 2005 T1n. There was no wrench displayed on the dash I just bought it so I'm changing the oil.
If pressing the Mi button doesn't ever display a wrench your van doesn't have the maintenance assist program running. This might be something we can just turn on with advanced DAS, but we have not proven it yet. If we can do it, there will be a video coming soon.
Hello, great content! 👍 I heard Mobile 1 European Car Formula 0W-40 is also good. Thoughts on that vs Rotella?
It meets the spec for our oil but near me it comes in small bottles and stores often have less than 10 bottles in stock.
Question, can I use 5w-40 Shell Rotella oil for my 08 3500 3L dodge soriter? It’s such a pain in the butt to find the perfect MB oil, and when I go to autozone they tell me that I will be fine w that one. I already put it in. Should I be worried?
I only use Rotella T6. T5 is synthetic blend and T4 is non-synthetic so your oil-change interval should be less than 10,000 miles if using those Rotella products.
Question - do all t1n years have milage indicators that show remaining milage on an oil change? Seems like my 2006 does not...
That feature you're thinking of is called ASSYST. It was an option you had to order. Our two main vans, blue saloon and red, both have it but sporty shorty did not. Seems as though it is standard on newer vans.
@@FloridaVanMan seems like my van is like sporty shorty. The "m" button on the dash does not cycle to the miles countdown. Just total amd trip miles.
Why do you use T6 when T4 is the recommended oil with the paper filter? Are you using the fleece filter with the T6?
T4 is non-synthetic and not recommended as far as I understand. I'm sure "fleece" is a misused word in the oil filter business. MANN's fleece* filter is purely polyester fiber. But that is where my confidence fades. If the filter I used here is wrong I'll learn. But I think it is also poly fiber and I'm sure it is not paper. I generally inspect the filters when taking them out and cannot tear them. I like the rubber ends better than the felt ends on Mann filters. The Hengst has considerably more surface area, due to much deeper folds despite broad ends and shorter filter* length. That shouldn't ever be a consideration but I feel it ensures consistent flow through the life of the filter, needing a lot more debris to even think about clogging or resisting.
What's you thoughts on Shell Rotella T4 and a 5k change interval?
T4 & T5 do not meet the spec, MB 228.31 or MB 228.51 so I wouldn't recommend it.
do you use any other oil filter if you cannot find a Mann filter?
Yes but I stick with a brand name I have heard of.
Just bought a 2006 and was wondering why you were filling it to 75 percent?
The level will fluctuate some with temperature changes and it is not necessary to hit the Max line exactly. If we hit it exactly when the engine is warmed up, it will be a bit high when running hot with heavy load or steep climbs. My book states 9.5 liters capacity which is 10.0385 quarts. I could pour that last 0.0385 from a fresh jug, but that is 7.5 teaspoons. I'm not that critical.
Are you down with the new Rotella T6 formula, had you heard of the change? A lot of the Subaru crowd has begun to switch off it but I haven't seen Sprinter used oil analysis of the new T6 versus the old to compare.
I think a lot of Subaru folks have stopped using it not because of the oil but rather because it interferes with newer gasoline ICE emissions equipment and the ECU just freaks out as a result. I run SubaruOutback.org and I have seen countless people over the past decade that have some weird cult-like obsession with using this oil in a gas engine as if it is the most imperative thing that they must be able to do.
@@TranslatedAssumption Yeah, the thing is oils for gas engines have had a lot of things removed from them that help engine longevity (especially in emergency cases where oil is low for some reason for a short while), but that hurt emissions. Diesel oils, like Rotella T, still have those additives, as longer engine life is imperative. Man gas engines these days have oil ratings that are focused on making sure the manufacturer can hit their mandated mpg, and are not focused on the oil that will necessarily give the longest service life, as problems from a weak oil only crop up after warranty service period but create more money for the manufacturer (so, another place to manifest planned obsolescence).
I don't know anything about Subaru's, just have run Rotella T in most of my vehicles over the years.
Interesting that there are sensors that won't accept it now. Thanks for the comment, I would have wondered if the formula changed recently otherwise.
Is this the recommended oil wieght? I seen people use 5w30, I’m planning on changing my oil today.
Most of the recommended oils in my manual are 5w-40 to 15w-40. My book also lists Mobil SHC 5w-30 and a few similar. Look for the MB spec 228.3 or 228.5 or 229.3 or 229.5 on the package. What is ideal depends on your climate. I believe colder places would lean toward the lower numbers on both scales, but I'm not sure how all that works & why some people choose differently.
@@FloridaVanMan oil weight numbers are viscosity when engine is cold and viscosity when engine is hot. You need lower numbers for a thinner oil for colder climates, especially when engine startup is happening, to get lubrication moving fast. On the other hand, you don't want low numbers on that left side for hotter climates because the oil will be too thin.
Engine oils use special molecules that are long and don't increase viscosity when the oil is at ambient temperature, but when hot those special molecules coil up and make the oil thicker. (This is how they defy the common sense experience of the engine getting hotter not making the oil too thin.) These special long molecules break down over time and reduce the engine viscosity at running temps, which is one major reason why the oil needs to be changed from time to time.
All that to say--yes, you're right, colder places want lower numbers (which means thinner viscosities at both ambient and running temps, which will then both experiencing them thickening due to both of those temps being colder in their locale). Winter, you also might consider using a 5 instead of 15.
Just thought I'd share since you said you weren't so sure how it all works.
As to why some people choose differently... let's be honest, unless you're sending in oil particulate assesments and you're a mega geek on the bobtheoilguy forums or something, running experiments, you're not going to be making the choice on anything other than a hunch and whatever information you got from whoever and wherever you saw it or whoever you asked. In reality, just try to follow the spec they list in the manual, or perhaps try to follow the advice of anyone who has run their vehicle for a few hundred thousand miles on a given oil at a given climate and had good results. Anything else is just shadetree speculation.
@@KyleBaker Oh, it is most definitely shade-tree speculation with a little shade-leaf too, when times are hard. Haha I've been running Rotella T6 in 2 Sprinters for over a decade and combined 600,000 miles. And I'm still inconclusive. I have not had any major engine failure since starting with Rotella, and the previous failure was not the oil's fault (Mobil1 for small diesel trucks). That failure was an injector issue so any oil might be just as good, for all I really know. Thank you for the details above.
@@FloridaVanMan well, my climate won't be so different than yours, so 600k of smooth running is good enough for me! I've also always been partial to Rotella T6, so that makes it an easy choice. If I end up with a T1N (fingers crossed), I'm sure that's what I'll be putting in it.
Great video as always. I’m not sure what’s going on with my engine oil because it always dried below “min” only after 3k miles. Where is the leak?
How's that turbo doing is there any signs of a leak on either side of the engine?
@That Van Guy - I will have to see exactly where “either side of the engine is” (new owner at 300k and drove 9k miles - 3rd oil change) , but you are definitely on to something that turbo is having low boost pressure. Occasionally, I get limp mode at 40mph going up him with traffic. I have to pull to shoulder and switch key off-on engine to reset.
I watched your other video about turbo resonator replacement and made a purchased through affiliate link and then I noticed my van already has the same aluminum resonator replaced! So I’m not sure what’s the problem is now. I’m debating whether I should buy the turbo kit (hoses) without the inter cooler from million mile sprinter ?
I really appreciate all the valuable info here!
@@hahnduchamp1244 you can check if your EGR valve is working or not also. You can clean it out with carbon cleaner. You may have a carbon blockage and that could cause limp mode from what I have read. I hope this helps you out. I'm not Florida van man just another van guy that loves to work on his own 2003 sprinter tiny home lol.
@That Van Guy - I’m sure you’re way ahead of the game compare to a newbie like me! I did watched a video about cleaning EGR and attempted to open something look like EGR but there was coolant leaking out before I finished open the last screw on it, didn’t have a chance to see what’s inside. So I asked a mechanic and confirmed that my 2005 doesn’t have an EGR?? Maybe he’s wrong? I’ll have to recheck this!
Owning this T1n really turn a man into a bigger man :)!!
@@hahnduchamp1244 sounds like you were opening the heating vavle if there was coolant.
Have a link to the oil filter wrench?
amzn.to/3g2IADA
how many liters of oil should be between 8.5 or more because I don't know well, can you tell me?
9.5 liters will fill to the maximum level, 8.5 liters will fill to minimum line on dipstick.
@@FloridaVanMan thnx
because I have a sprinter 208cdi European version I poured 9 liters I also have the oil level between the two points is it OK
Is it a 13 mm socket for the drain plug ?
USUALLY, but not always. I've seen 14mm & 15mm replacement plugs. A few oil change kits on the market include replacement plug with filters and oil.
Thanks for the 2.5 gallon tip! $55 at tractor supply. But wouldn’t the whole jug be 1/2 quart overfilled?
Works perfect for me every time. My manual calls for 9.5 quarts but that was never enough to reach *full mark. All my vans are 5 cylinder 2.7l engines.
@@FloridaVanMan Here to mention the same thing. When I put 9.5qt in it hits the max line. I would encourage you to tell people what the manual says, and mention your usage is different and why you think it is different in the video. If I put the full 10 in, I would get high oil level warnings until I leaked/burnt it out over 1000+ miles.
Any idea why your van would need that much more oil?
@@lunaumbra5179 If you find me on FaceBook I can share pictures of the service manual. It is CLEARY misprinted as 9.5quart where it absolutely should read 9.5L. Under the section detailing fluid capacities, specifically "Engine Oil" it states "9.0L without filter replacement".... "9.5 Quart with filter replacement". I hope we can agree the engine will certainly require more oil with a replacement filter and I also hope we can agree 9.5 Quarts is LESS than 9.0L. So either the service manual has an error or we are living in some weird upside-down where less actually IS MORE!
Now let's figure out why you are thinking your oil is full when it is not. If your dipstick is yellow you should be checking the oil when cold, NOT after warming the engine but 2-5 minutes after moving it to level ground and circulating oil through the engine and filter. In summary, run 2-5 minutes then rest 2-5 minutes and check oil level with yellow handle dipstick. The yellow dipstick is intended for DAILY oil estimation in a maintained fleet environment. Due to fluctuating ambient temperatures it is not as accurate as checking a warmed engine with the RED dipstick.
If your dipstick is red you should be checking when the engine is fully warmed and at operating temperature, 2-5 minutes after shut-down. A fuel pitstop is an excellent time to check oil with a RED dipstick. Get the fuel pumping, pop the hood and dip the stick with a clean* paper towel. NOT the one that has been under the hood for 8,000miles. :)
Also worth noting, I only have access to OM647 and OM612 engines. UK has 4 cylinder and other options I am not familiar with.
@@FloridaVanMan I appreciate the thorough reply, but I found it a little irritating you assumed I didn't even watch your video, where you clearly explain the red/yellow dipstick. Given how old this video is, you might also just not realize this particular video out hundreds contains this explanation. The fact you are replying at all is a wonder and appreciated.
I am aware of the dipstick differences. I have the service manual myself and do many of my own repairs. I am not a total idiot 😵
Yes I have a red dipstick, and I always read about 5min after I am done driving. Yes I always change the filter, and did not notice the unit mistake in the manual. And it is likely I don't read my oil level soon after changing and just assume I've already leaked it out (I'm trying to take care of those now 😭) next oil change I will immediately go for a drive and check again and take a damn photo for my own sake. Thank you.
But you shouldn't shame us who reuse the same oil level rag left under the hood. It is totally economical and better for the environment. Plus with vans as reliable as ours, we need a little fire risk to feel anything in this life 🤐
@@lunaumbra5179 I am truly sorry my reply irritated you. I didn't remember this being that video, but now that I reviewed it fast-forwarded I see my error of redundant lectures. I didn't intend to lecture at all.
As for the dirty rag, we'll need to wrestle over that in Philly this summer or in Florida at the end of next January. :)
After replying to your comment I went searching for confirmation of my own belief, and failed to find any support. For what it is worth... I could be wrong. The 2003 & 2002 service manuals have the same image I refer to, thought three letters are absent "out". :/. When it reads 9.0L WITH oil filter ... 9.5 Quart with oil filter. This makes much more sense than the other manuals I have been viewing repeatedly for years. Although, I've poured 2.5gal jugs in for every oil change I have done in the last 3 years and never read too high or had anyone report back saying I overfilled theirs.
What sized oil filter wrench did you use?
74mm, 14 flute amzn.to/46PZLhA
Do we need to add diesel lubricant?
Fuel additives and engine oil additives are not recommended, and even forbidden in warranty period, which is long-past on all our T1N Sprinters. I don't believe in them because a quart into a full tank is 1%.
what is the Oil filter remover wrench size?
74mm 14 flute amzn.to/3y7LEoX
I could write a book called rain, my follow up would be called rust 499962 Wow man, just wow
Do the filters come with 3 o'rings?
Yes, some filters come with more, for different vehicle applications. Choose the three that are same size as the ones removed.
Common fault on these sprinters is the glow plug light staying on after van has started for 20 seconds. Are you going to be doing a video on checks, and tests to do, to resolve any issues?
Glow plug issues are fortunately not common here in Florida, but it is one of those videos that as soon as we have to do it, we’ll be filming it!
The light staying on could be the entire module under the battery tray is fried. It’s a common T1N problem from what I understand. You can remove the driver’s side headlight and very easily pull the module and inspect its solder joints. It’s possible to DIY repair or replace with the updated design.
Oh, ok. I thought if it's was fried I would have issues starting van. No issues starting van, just wondered what was causing it to miss behave. It's been the same on both sprinter vans
@@sprintervankev You would only have problems starting in extreme cold or if your engine had low compression to start with.
ไฟเบรครุ่นนี้416cdiค้าง แก้ไขยังไงค้าฟ
คุณเปลี่ยนสวิตช์แล้วหรือยัง
All “three” O-rings???? I thought there were only two?
Two small ones below the filter, plus the big one around the cap. Sorry to put a scare into ya'. hehe
I hate this van
Don't donate it to car-angel. Bring it to us! :)