VLOG - CTEK XS Multi 3600 Car / Bike Battery Charger Quick Fix
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- Опубліковано 18 бер 2020
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Not a very exciting video - more coming soon!
A short video looking at a faulty CTEK car / bike battery charger.
#electronics #ctek #repair - Наука та технологія
Many thanks for your video. My CTEK XS Multi 3600 was not working, I bought a switch and replaced as you showed and now it works! Thanks again.
And this is why I really like your videos. Even though you fixed the charger, you dug a little deeper to know why. Great job, as always. :)
Thanks =D Much appreciated!
Just wanted to say I found this video after having the same problem. Ended up replacing the switch “dome” rather than desoldering as per one of the comments here. Cleaning didn’t work, and I ended up using the new dome underneath the old one to pack it out as there seemed to be too much clearance using a new one & still not switching. Switch was opened by cutting the four tiny corners & sticking back with a bit of hot glue. The new switch parts came from a salvaged front panel from my old sky box by the way - made me feel better about not throwing stuff away! Thanks all! 😊
Thank you my friend you just save me The best part of £100 mine had exactly the same problem. I didn’t even desolder mine. I just picked the silver Cover Off, cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol under cotton bud. replaced the top and hot glued it back on. Works perfectly now thank you
Just fixed my button, cleaning it, works like a dream.
Thanks for the upload Chris,on these long days this helps a lot thanks again
It is a typical failure mode for this type of switches. I had to fix these so frequently by now that nowadays I tend to carefully disassemble switches in place to clean up internals with a little IPA and deoxit instead of desoldering and soldering a new one. Reassembly of the switch isn't that tricky with top metal cover held in place with a tiny droplet of rubber glue. It is important not to use superglue for this as it tends to vaporize a bit and cover switch internals (dome surface) ruining switch back into non working state. Had fixed my rice/multi cooker control panel a year ago with this technique and it still work well to this day.
I replaced mine in the exact same CTEK model last year! Glad to see it wasn't just mine that had a shytty quality switch😄
Haha =D I was hoping to see other owners of this charger on here - glad to know its not just mine lol!
Nice to see how you opened the cTek, thank you for this instruction and all before Marijke
Thanks for the very helpful video. I have the same unit, and after only 3-6 months of operation it failed in exactly the same way as yours. Sadly mine was out of warranty as I had had it sitting in a box for a long time before using it. So I dismantled the switch, cleaned the little dome contact, glued it back together and now it works perfectly again. Must have been a very bad batch of switches!
Glad it helped =D
Thanks for this video - same fix worked for me. 👍
Thank you soooo much for posting this video. I had exactly the same switch issue, but not the understanding or know how to rectify this issue. I watched, ordered the parts and hey presto, I now have a fully functioning charger. Thanks again, Kevin.
PS. The soldering stressed me out as it always does & I lost a pad too, but got there in the end.
Glad it helped
great demo/ instructions
i checked mine how you did and it was the same but went by what someone else had posted and just sprayed the switch and worked it and after three attempts at it, it started to work
thanks
Thank you for this video, just fixed mine with the same problem
Glad it helped =D
Good video Chris :-)
Cheers Vince =D Keep those repairs coming, we all enjoy them ;)
@@GadgetUK164 Thanks mate :-)
I've got the same charger and although I can get it to work occasionally by hammering the switch a few times, usually missing the correct charging mode in the process, I suspect it's the same issue. I believe they're reasonably sealed units for an IP65 or IP67 rating.
Thanks for the video, although you've given me another job for me to do! I only discovered your channel yesterday when looking for Amiga PSU repairs - I've got a whole bunch of them from a job lot, some with nicely blown internal fuses.
I did repair my Ctek Zafir 45 in November. Same problem with the Mode button but i solved it with some ipa and electricalclean. The charger still works fine 👍🏻
Interesting video, thanks for posting
Nice video
I had the same problem.
I did a easy test - put the power on and shortcircuit the switch with a screwdriver on one side.
Thank you very much. This is exactly as my does . As in most cases, totally sealed cases are not the best due to condensed water... A tiny hole may be a way to protect?? but in this case, it will not be IP44, IP45 or IP46 or anything. the classic problem =:-|
This is a lead acid battery charger for mopeds and cars. My eBike needs a 36V charger. However as always a good helpful video. Thanks for that. 👍👍👍
Great video!
I had the exact same problem. So thought I'd press the contactor hard several times and perhaps the contactor could break through that weird covering, and heureka - it suddenly started working again!
Glad it helped
Those little tact switches are a pain in the arse. I've swapped some of them recently in my Akai MPC that hasn't even had that much use. Also the reset switch in the megadrive 2 is a similar type of switch and that had completely died in mine so replaced with one of those clicky ones you used in this vid.
Yep, they fail in so many devices =/ I was surprised this switch failed as it doesnt get that much use!
A new switch is normally the only repair that will work. Just to add to your work and to make it a little easyer for some I will add the following. Cut the legs off the old tactile switch then remove each leg from the board (i use large nail clippers for this). You dont need to replace the flat disc so can use 6 x 6 x 6 SMD momentary switches with no other modification. Parts are around £1.80 for 5 pieces on ebay.
Thank you. I have The same issue and now I have a clear path How to fix it 🙏🏻
It was enough to lubricate The Button quite alot and lots of pressning. After maybe 4 occassion with spraying, pressning and measuring it came back to life. Continue for some more Times and was like brand new again. Thanks again and awsome video 🙏🏻
Great work =D Sorry for not being here for a while =/
Thanks, no worrries! Hope you are well!
@@GadgetUK164 🤝
Nice work Chris. I bet your head was sore after whacking it on the cars boot. I did something similar years ago but with the edge of an open bonnet. Didnt bleed much but knocked me sick and gave me a killer headache. Hope you and your family stay healthy in all this virus madness.
Thanks! Yeah, it knocked me for six lol! The scar is still healing now lol! Hope you are well, stay safe!!
nice vid
=D
I wonder if the conformal coating had something to do with the oxidation, like some volatiles might have gotten in to the switch while the coating was setting or something. I think it might be a a bad idea to mix mechanical components and conformal coatings. I have also had a ctek chargers having intermittent button functionality. Just had to press it a bunch of times and it started to work a bit better. Probably just broke up some oxide and it's probably going to be acting up again in the future. Keep up the good work and stay safe with the virus going around.
Thanks =D Yes, you may be right there! Stay safe!
Atari 7800 consoles have a larger version of these switches and many of them fail.
I've seen people say it was from contaminants during the wave soldering process but the power button always fails first (most used button). Wear/use/fatigue definitely has something to do with it.
Yeah, this button hasn't had much use though lol! I think moisture in the environment must have got in there! Everything else has conformal coating, but the button is kind of exposed I guess.
The best fix for most electronic products is to replace the operator.
Nice video as always Mr.G :) Question: any idea at all how commodore 64/128 assigns a drive number on power up? I am asking as I'm stuck with a disk drive (C128) that the machine always assigns to drive 9 on boot. This is a pain as a lot of software needs "8". There are four "jumpers" on the board but I have grounded these (as one of the pads was damaged) so there's no reason for the machine to default to "9". For the record the external drive (1541, SD2IEC) happily grabs drive 8 if plugged in to the serial port. A real mystery...don't know if you have any ideas at all?
I've not looked at it, but its going to relate to one of the ICs connected to one of the VIAs. A signal will be pulled low or high and another not, to specify 8 or 9. I am sure its possible with a toggle switch!
Thanks for posting I have the same problem with mine.... please could you post a link to the switch on eBay... this would help me greatly to select the correct switch.
Many thanks!
John.
Something like this:- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6mm-x-6mm-x-4mm-DIP-Push-Button-Momentary-Tactile-Switch-2-Pin-5-10-20/161783781492?hash=item25ab109874:g:GKIAAOSwgHZYCwCj
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods
Thanks very much!👍
Those clicky bits get dirty, fixed a mouse the same way
Very informative as always. I have a ps vita external battery grip, but the battery keeps geting drained on its own. Its not the batteries, they are good its something in the charging circuit, do you happen to know some place, like a forum or something, where i could find some assistance on that?
I am honestly not sure where you could go with that! I've not seen that problem before, but then again I've not looked at a Vita yet on my channel either!
Same type of switch was dead in my amiga 600 mouse.
Think about how many electronic products getting thrown away in vain.
Blimey, 15 minute video, and I got 4 adverts randomly placed throughout. Nice video Chris. Please be careful and stop hitting your head.
LOL! I leave it to "automatic" - I think you just got unlucky!
On the edge of the dome part inside, there were 4 tiny black spots. It looks like it had been arcing.
Thanks, I did wonder if perhaps it arcs as it gets pressed - that kind of thing ultimately will stop one of these working.
@@GadgetUK164 And either a fly-back catch diode (if DC) or small capacitor (AC) will kill the spark. But that's normal good design practice if there's any spark energy involved. That said, these switches are not intended for inductive loads. Just driving pull-up resistors with a few mA and no spark energy. Not sure how CTek got this so wrong. And on so many models spanning so many years. And they still do it. As long as most of them outlast warranty they seem happy.
The fact there are several videos on how to fix these chargers shows how overpriced they are. Threw mine in the bin yesterday - wasn't the switch.
What did you use on switch
Deoxit! WD-40 contact cleaner should work too!
That Mode switch is total garbage. It is what went on my CTEK. I looked for a spare but wasn't able to source one. I threw the piece of shit into the garbage and won't ever buy a CTEK again.
condensation?
I think you're right! Certainly the most likely explanation! Hot and cold cycles, used in a garage - probably some moisture got inside somehow.