Climbing Training For Over 50s - What Makes The Difference?!
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- Training climbers in their 50s, 60s and 70s is something that we've done for many years at Lattice. Lots of climbers in this bracket are concerned that "the rules" don't apply to them, that seem to work for younger climbers and also that gains in strength and fitness are not possible. What we've seen, is that it is just a few simple changes in training habit that can make massive differences in training adaptation and whilst they might not always be the easiest or most appealing to do, they do deliver results.
In this video from the archives (yes we, know.... we'll get that Part 2 for "Home Lock Down" out soon) we have Ollie and Tom answering a few of the most popular and pressing concerns facing older climbers. We've also been asked a number of times "does this not apply to me as I'm 48" - the answer is, that everything sits on a sliding scale... be sensible and do look at some of the options discussed. They may well make a big difference if you can sort them out!
Q1: Can you still improve in your 60s and 70s? This also applies to the 50s obviously!
Q2: What issues and injuries do you see most often with older climbers?
Q3: Quantity vs quality
Q4: Can you fingerboard more than once a week if you're over 50?
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Having climbed for 40+ years, I have noticed that injuries tend to weed out the injury-prone climbers in their 30s and 40s. I have climbed 8a or better for 28 years now, with no issues on that front now in my 60s. Focus on finger strength has me pushing to a new level, 8a+ or better. The most important things are to keep it fun and listen to your body.
Started at the age of 58. Now two years later I have a lot of fun with indoorclimbing but I prefer outdoor climbing. Now the main goal is techniek and look at he younger ones. At the moment I am climbing 6c. From this point taking little steps in training fingers, core etc. Little steps and the progress will come by it self. Thanks
@@mdezeeuw6684 Good work...it seems like you are progressing well. Never too late to get your childhood right!
I started climbing 3 months ago at age 58.
I have seen tremendous gains over my baseline which I thought was quite good for a man of my age.
I firmly believe in the "use it or lose it" philosophy, whether it's climbing or some other sport or fitness regime, the key for all of us is to keep moving.
As an older climber, I see the most relevant advice given here as laying a basic foundation of strength and fitness using weight training.. instead of trying to climb every day. A full range of motion using a variety of dumbbell/cable-based exercises "balances out" one's physique and transfers well to the climbing gym. I can attest to this. Weight training has also proven to be a fine way to calibrate my fitness. If you have difficulty moving around a regular gym on your two feet, you are going to struggle in a rock gym. Trust me. Never mind sport inclusivity, this and that. Fingerboard training? Expect to dislocate a finger if you are overweight. Unnecessary for recreational climbing. I just do actual routes when I am at a rock gym and then get out of there. I prefer strength work at my regular gym. Conditioning? A two-hour trudge in the woods on weekends rounds out a well-structured week.
Thank you so much for this video! I just started climbing a year ago at age 49 and I’ve been really frustrated at all the climb training advice that I felt was geared only for super young powerful climbers.
Yep, it s really annoying hearing 11stone 30 year old whippets tell me its all technique. I am north of 18st and started 3 years ago at 56. Physics tells you force down is down to gravity - Mg. But body strength does not benefit the same way
Does Lattice HQ do double-duty as a cold storage facility? Tom seems to add a layer with each new vid 😛
funny ;)
Thank you! I´m 50, and I´ve been climbing for 25 years. I noticed that I loose strength faster when i´m not climbing. Also it´s a fact that I need more rest time between trainning sessions.
Now I´m recovering from an shoulder injury, because of the volume of climbing, so now I know I have to respect that.
I am 40 years old started climbing 8 years ago. I climb at best 12A outside on lead, 5.9 on trad, boulder v5-v6. My hidden gem to keep climbing into my late forties is "Consistency" that in its self is a progress. Also I do not over train I climb till I feel good then stop. No reason to over due it. Its all about the "long game" anyways.
Great piece, and great advice, agreed all around! What about connective tissue strength and recovery time as we age. Do the same declines apply similar rates?
Great video. As a member of the over 50 climbing crowd, it was very useful to hear your advice for older climbers. I’m currently working towards climbing my first V10 and I plan to incorporate your advice into the training plan. Keep up the good work.
Just started climbing at 58y after watching Magnus vlogs. Love the challenge and my goal is simply to get good enough to lead climb, even just in the gym. Just aiming for twice a week at the gym but would like to do three occasionally. Love having new goals.
I've started at 59 and am currently climbing mostly 5b+ - 6a, want to be able to climb 7a. I find my finger strength letting me down now. I would love to find some finger strength regime
I live in South Africa and am 51. I have been climbing for just over a year now. I broke my ankle in November last year while walking out from a crag in a storm. I am still battling with the recovery from this injury but the time away from actual climbing did allow me to focus more on strength training and a start at finger boarding. Lockdown has of course continued that process. I follow your channel and use your Crimpd app for workouts. There is a world of advice and training programs out there, which just makes it all confusing and a challenge. So I chose one program, yours, and follow it. But it would be nice to see a video on actual exercises and block type training as you mention, for us older novices. My issues are flexibilty, strength and a general climbing movement issue. These are not "just there" anymore. So I feel anxious about a late start, which makes me want to see training returns without the feeling of running out of time to gain the experience to fully enjoy this wonderful sport and the places we climb. First ever comment on a channel and probably way too long. Thanks for a good channel.
I hear a lot about older climbers who have come out of a 'lifetime' of climbing and how to deal with that but in most cases they'll have some conditioning, stronger tendons, a bit of muscle mass, etc. I'm 52 and started at 50 and have been climbing two or three times a week and am making decent gains in grades but finger strength takes a long time to improve (currently -15kg on the Lattice on a 73kg bodyweight). I'm going to sign up for a Lattice training programme once I've paid of the home wall build and will be very interested in expectations for a 'new' climber with no physical condition at 50. Thanks for contributing all the interesting content Tom and Ollie!!
Finally! Something for ME! How did I miss this
Bumped into a guy at Burbage, who climbed knights move, and he was 85!
Thank you for what you have shared gentleman. I believe this type of video would have a lot more credibility if you included an older climber in your dialogue. As an older climber, it is a bit difficult to take advice from young people only that have not experienced my time of life. Thank you again
I discovered climbing at about age 54 and wish I hard started sooner. I'm now 64. I am comfortable feeling like I'll never lead climb. But, I love the sport and feel like it helps with strength and mental training like nothing else. I still want to learn and improve but I'm happy being a 5 10 climber, if that's as far as I get. What I'm truly afraid of is bouldering and the falls that are hard on hips and knees. I typically only use a rope. But thank you for addressing this!
thanks . really helpful
Cheers guys,
That’s brilliant
Really nice to find this. Been climbing 30 years now, and still is as passionete about it. What I have a problem with is how hard it is to train indoors. The routesetting are made by young men for young men is my opinion. Since movement has changed thrue the years ( I understand the theory behind a high step, but I only dream about nowadays😏) and the change in routesetting to being more strenght orientated, I find it scary to climb routes and getting injured. Bouldring is not really an option since falling of is scary. What I resently have found is the Kilter board🙏 it gives me the chance to set my own problems for specifik training... and it gives me the extra feets that I need.
Me watching this as a 31 years old preparing myself for the next decades
Perfect video for me. Last year I had two knees replaced and during my physical therapy, I watched climbing videos for inspiration. It worked. At 64, I’ve lost 50lbs and have been doing Pilates 3-5 times per week, regularly. Last summer, I decided that on the anniversary of my right knee replacement, I’m going to begin climbing. I am focused. I am psyched. I am determined. Can you recommend a great coach/trainer in NYC (West Side of Manhattan) for my specific needs? I’m also thinking my ideal coach would have experience as a physical therapist as well. I don’t want to destroy my new knees. And if there’s an alternate choice for those of us who are not filthy rich, as I’m an artist. Thanks. Great video.
Good video. From my point of view the hardest thing is working around passed injuries from other sports. A point touched on to is some what my problem I just love training and I think trying to fit everything isn't hard its te recovery time needed. Cheers Guys for the video
Thanks guys never hear much on this subject.
Thanks for this video! I’ve been addressing this topic to some trainers, but none of them were able to get really specific to the age ‘problem’. I started climbing three years ago at 50 and I still see improvements but also lots of small issues (I wouldn’t call them injuries) that take quite some time to go away. I would love to discuss this with you guys and other climbers. Maybe there’s already a group on the net?
Tendon injuries in general tend to take a really long time to recover. Even if it just a small tear or some strain from overtraining it might take 3 months or longer to fully heal up. As long as the pain is manageable and not becoming worse by climbing I just keep going, but being mindful of it and avoiding any dynamic moves on that hand. I recommend collagen supplement, especially since your body's natural production slows down as you get older. I recommend checking out some videos from Dave Macleod he discusses these topics very in-depth.
Those two look good for being 50+. I wish I had such excellent hair.
Being and older climber I appreciate the vlog, Just two questions why the winter coats indoors, and why are they sipping air out of empty cups?
Great video, thanks! I started bouldering about a year ago (I'm 54) as a way to build core strength, because I train marathon running. The combination has been really great, but shortly before the quarantine (here in Denmark) I hit a wall and strained my calf muscle. I was thinking that distance running and bouldering would be very complementary, so one sport would only positively affect the other. But, I am wondering if my logic is wrong.
Interesting video.
I have a year and a half before I am classed as older...
I have only been climbing a year. I'm not that good, but pre-lockdown I was still improving. (I had reached about v4/v5. God knows how much technique will have degraded.)
great video thanks a lot....one questio do you have a graphik about % age vs grade of difficulty ? thanks
I am 52, I still boulder. Tips.. Pace yourself and don't rush. Strength training, flexibility and mobility movement helps during non climbing days.
52 this year next week. I’ve recently gotten an opportunity to train up from 5.7. Starting more 5.10 now, but I have to be careful with the ligaments in my fingers. I’m one of those people that is so jazzed for it, I tend to do too much. So, I’ve started working myself in blocks like they are talking about.
I have recently started climbing at the age of 50. I finally retired from playing football as it was causing me more harm than good and I needed a new sport. My main problems right now related to climbing are my flexibility and mobility in the lower body so I"m working on that. Watching my 12yr old daughter climb (she's a gymnast as her main sport) really made me notice just how stiff I've become in my older years.
As mention in the video, olympic weightlifting is a good way to maintain muscle (and it forces you to figure out how to do a full squat and maintain posture).
6:31 There's also a survivorship bias - people who are physically or psychologically "prone to injury" have dropped out by this point.
thanks.....
Could you give me some advice on appropriate outdoor gear for wearing on a couch; specifically footwear?
Crocs, slippers and highheels ;-)
@@LatticeTraining I never thought about highheels! Cunning tip for training toe pointing for those reachy moves and enduring crushed toes for those super tight boots. I'll wear the slippers when resting between intervals. Thanks Lattice!
I’m I’m my 20s but I’m sure as hell hopping on test when I’m in my 40s to stop the decline
Interesting that you didn't mention flexibility training. This is the biggest issue holding me back. I find pilates very helpful for me
The addition of a proper pre climb stretching session has really helped me with mobility, never used to do it pre 50 but now it's part of my routine and I certainly feel the benefit when climbing.
Fantastic; as you know I train like a demon but making gains is tough! The big thing with age is flexibility - or it is with me!
Me too.
As I am 52 and in good shape (I run regularly), I find this segment to be very inspirational. I gather from all the guarded opinions you have offered that I can very well expect to succeed in a new and exciting endeavor. I have a bit of body weight (200 lbs), but that is primarily from my previous interest in strongman and weightlifting. My pull ups are a bit weak, but I do like to try rope climbs. I wonder if there are any specific or semi specific training that I might be entrusted to do to prepare myself for climbing classes. Would you consider asking a masters climber to allow you to video a coaching session? I might like to try and gauge your expected training intensity.
I’d be interested to know your thoughts on diet for older climbers; ie metabolic resilience, protein intake, avoiding estrogenic foods, supplementation, alcohol consumption and sugar intake. Us Older folks tend to be very set in our ways and less willing to change, but I have found careful attention to diet pays dividends.
By being active you will have the best metabolic resistance you can. Protein intake a little more won't hurt. 20g will suffice though in most cases. Estrogenic foods?? This is not really a thing. I have read mild cases can occur with booze. Supplements may be needed due to lower nutrient absorption across the board may occur. B12, epa/dha and multivitamin are fine for most. Booze never aids training, even in the young it impairs muscle protein synthesis and recovery.
Sugar is life lol.
Chris Richardson as I understand it, soy protein and flax both contain phytoestrogens which boosts your blood estrogen levels thus decreasing testosterone effectiveness, at my age, 61, I need all the testosterone effectiveness I can get.
Mind over matter 🙏🧚🏻♀️👼🏼
Oh bugger, I’m an older climber.
Please don't say older climbers
Just say people in age group 50ies and above
Master climbers=older climbers:)