As someone who's studying mechanical engineering with the hopes of going into gear manufacturing this video was amazing to watch. It's a phenomenal way to connect what I've learned in class to the sport!
Your videos are keeping such a high standart! I've seen a video about micro fractions in quickdraws on 'how not to slackline' and your depth of testing is adding so much insight;)
Cool and very interesting Video! Maybe interesting to know, in slacklining there have been broken carabineers and tests about them, where we don't even have to go over the plastic deformation of them, but only the small bend in the nose, in every cicle is enough for aluminum to break if you have enough cycles and in slacklining we can create a lot of them, quite fast. You can for this also look up some permanent strength curves of materials, where aluminum is really bad...
Great video!. As an amateur climber, the method I use to identify carabiners that have experienced a severe load is the following: observe the gap between the gate and the nose of the carabiner where it would normally sit. If this gap is similar to that of a new carabiner of the same brand and model, it means it has never exceeded its elastic limit. If the gap is smaller, it means the carabiner has been deformed and I discard it.
Sick video! Love it! and your animation game is off the chain these days! BTW: if you want to to do the drop test again, use lightweight streamers, ribbed ones if you can! You can calculate the backforce on the streamers vs the carabiner and hold it just below terminal velocity for a stable flight.
Yesterday i was wondering when would you upload a new video, as always very interesting and well made, the waiting is always worth it for the quality. Thank you very much 🙌🏻. My best regards from Monterrey Mexico, if you want to climb in some of the best areas in Mexico you are always welcome 👋🏻
I think that removing the high frequency spikes - that is to say smoothing the curve out, or as an engineer would put it, applying a low-pass filter - may have been the wrong choice. I'm not a metallurgist, but my limited material sciences experience suggests that exactly those quick force spikes might very well contribute a lot to the propagation of cracks in metals.
The main reason to remove them was to prevent the machine from heating unnecessary. But yea it's now unclear if that would have had any effect... Judging from the final results, I kinda doubt.
@@HardIsEasy I agree with your assessment of the outcome. Where there are no cracks, none can propagate, no matter what you do. I was speaking more in general terms.
Saying this before seeing your conlusion. Ive climbed, dropped gear, found gear, accidentaly cross loaded gear, done mostly everything right using gear, and ...some things absolutely wrong with gear. This over 45 years of climbing (mostly outdoors) some inside. Always retired carabiners that took the long drop or were found at the base, assuming the worst Just to be safe. In this time the only failure ive seen were: one rope cut on an edge during an overhanging jumar. Otherwise nothing but a bunch of pilot error, as in belayers not paying attention and getting launched. So interested in knowing if all that being safe was technicaly the "right" call.
Hello. I found this little experiment very interesting and useful for a better understanding on how gear works and when or if it might not be reliable enough anymore. Especially the cyclic loading test were really good. Thank you. It was fun to watch, too ;-)
From Dr. Jekyll to Mr. Hyde and back 😀 That was an interesting experiment. I've never seen this fatigue testing machines with electrical linear motors. That's something I'll look up tomorow at work 😀
Wow such great work ❤🙏. I found the solid gate version of this mammut carabiner at the bottom of the schüsselkar probably dropped. Now I know it's most likely fine😊.
Among all your great videos this is one of your best. Amazing to so how reliable those carabiners are. Any plans on releasing a video on the Edelrid pinch? It is such a nice belay device, but for sure you are going to make it fail with your strange experience 😂 thanks so much for your tips and knowledge it helped me a lot.
@ Oh great news! Looking forward to your Pinch findings, I highly respect your insights and knowledge. I have used the pinch now for about one year and I love it. Direct attachment makes a huge difference for me, I have the feeling I have more and saver control over brake line this way than with grigri+gaswerk method. To belay with the Pinch is a very nice experience for me. I have to say I attach it directly and add an back-up beaner. Not because I don‘t trust it but the back-up beaner simply doesn‘t hurt or change the experience at all so why don‘t go for extra safety.
@@HardIsEasy I made strange type there :-D This is better: I love your strange experiments that you do with a lot of experience 😂 one thing I want to add: I am not very happy with the Caldwell/hownot2 video about the Pinch and how he suggest it catches a 6-7mm rope hands free. He shock loaded the pinch in his test scenario and yes, there it caught. It would be much more interesting to see this test with: -more standard rope (9.5-9.8) -rope just sliding (fall below bolt!) happy climbing ✌️
Really great video! One slight mistake. You both jokingly and sort of seriously claimed that the damaged ones had increased in strength. But the miniscule difference is within the tolerance of the production process. So it's not something one can determine. Suffice to say, carabineers are more than strong enough, given proper loading
I'm wondering if the reason of some carabiners marked a higher force to failure on the tensile tests was not due to the effect of work hardening (aka strain hardening). It's normal for some ductile materials such as steel alloys to gain more load bearing resistance when subjected to some kind of deformation.
I don't quite agree with the work hardening theory you presented. The work hardening means that after loading past the yield strenght, to cause more plastic deformation you need to go past the stress the part experienced previously. Also, metal becoming harder doesn't change the Young's modulus which you showcased, it only changes the tensile strength (all if we stay within the alloy family, all steels are around E = 210 GPa, all alus are around E = 69 GPa). It is worth noting that the fatigue strength comes into play in your last test, as you were close enough to the UTS to see fatigue at low amount of cycles.
I haven't watched this yet, but I will say it never would have occurred to me to retire gear simply because it was dropped. Now if it showed signs of damage... OK. Now I am curious to see if my assumption was correct....
Answering your question "Should you retire climbing gear?" I would say "no", as you do not know how many drops the carabiner or belay device (I found one at the bottom of a climbing route) has already been submitted. Maybe the last one is the worse, and next time you fall you will pay it. Definitely not worth taking this risk.
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these animations are going hard
It's probably the most interesting video about climbing gear, and for sure one of the most important ones. THANK YOU
As someone who's studying mechanical engineering with the hopes of going into gear manufacturing this video was amazing to watch. It's a phenomenal way to connect what I've learned in class to the sport!
The animations, the pacing, the information presentation was all top notch. Probably your best video to date!
This is fantastic! I love the level of depth you go into
Hard is easy is legendary. Documentary level videos on climbing science. This question has been on my mind a lot!
That first shot is amazing!
Super high quality video editing. television worthy
Very nice dude, been waiting for Your videos !
Awesome video, even more stoked about my Mammut gear now!
Great video. For those who are looking for the quick version :
18:50 (they're fine)
Your videos are keeping such a high standart! I've seen a video about micro fractions in quickdraws on 'how not to slackline' and your depth of testing is adding so much insight;)
Cool and very interesting Video! Maybe interesting to know, in slacklining there have been broken carabineers and tests about them, where we don't even have to go over the plastic deformation of them, but only the small bend in the nose, in every cicle is enough for aluminum to break if you have enough cycles and in slacklining we can create a lot of them, quite fast. You can for this also look up some permanent strength curves of materials, where aluminum is really bad...
Great video!. As an amateur climber, the method I use to identify carabiners that have experienced a severe load is the following: observe the gap between the gate and the nose of the carabiner where it would normally sit. If this gap is similar to that of a new carabiner of the same brand and model, it means it has never exceeded its elastic limit. If the gap is smaller, it means the carabiner has been deformed and I discard it.
Sick video! Love it! and your animation game is off the chain these days! BTW: if you want to to do the drop test again, use lightweight streamers, ribbed ones if you can! You can calculate the backforce on the streamers vs the carabiner and hold it just below terminal velocity for a stable flight.
I guess next time I'll skip that and go to smashing from the beginning :DDDD
This is so cool! I'd love to see more elongation comparisons with different shapes and types of carabiners.
Yesterday i was wondering when would you upload a new video, as always very interesting and well made, the waiting is always worth it for the quality. Thank you very much 🙌🏻. My best regards from Monterrey Mexico, if you want to climb in some of the best areas in Mexico you are always welcome 👋🏻
Super interesting, as always! Thanks!
omg man i literally just commented on an old video about the same thing, these intros are AMAZING (just like all of your videos)
I love your videos, always so interesting, educautional and never seen anywhere else. Thanks
I think that removing the high frequency spikes - that is to say smoothing the curve out, or as an engineer would put it, applying a low-pass filter - may have been the wrong choice. I'm not a metallurgist, but my limited material sciences experience suggests that exactly those quick force spikes might very well contribute a lot to the propagation of cracks in metals.
The main reason to remove them was to prevent the machine from heating unnecessary. But yea it's now unclear if that would have had any effect... Judging from the final results, I kinda doubt.
@@HardIsEasy I agree with your assessment of the outcome. Where there are no cracks, none can propagate, no matter what you do. I was speaking more in general terms.
Saying this before seeing your conlusion. Ive climbed, dropped gear, found gear, accidentaly cross loaded gear, done mostly everything right using gear, and ...some things absolutely wrong with gear. This over 45 years of climbing (mostly outdoors) some inside. Always retired carabiners that took the long drop or were found at the base, assuming the worst Just to be safe. In this time the only failure ive seen were: one rope cut on an edge during an overhanging jumar. Otherwise nothing but a bunch of pilot error, as in belayers not paying attention and getting launched. So interested in knowing if all that being safe was technicaly the "right" call.
Being safe is better than dead no? :)
I love your videos so much, I love how in depth you go.
Hello. I found this little experiment very interesting and useful for a better understanding on how gear works and when or if it might not be reliable enough anymore.
Especially the cyclic loading test were really good.
Thank you. It was fun to watch, too ;-)
I'm so excited. Love your content!
Excellent analysis!! Thank you for this
The animations are fantastic
awesome video! thank you so much for your work
Already For more then 22 years i try to explain on climbers what you showed us now.
Thank you for sharing this information world wide.
This is AMAZING! And much needed
thank you for doing this!!
From Dr. Jekyll to Mr. Hyde and back 😀
That was an interesting experiment.
I've never seen this fatigue testing machines with electrical linear motors. That's something I'll look up tomorow at work 😀
Awesome video. As always🎉
love it! would love to see the same info for cross loading!
Wow such great work ❤🙏. I found the solid gate version of this mammut carabiner at the bottom of the schüsselkar probably dropped. Now I know it's most likely fine😊.
Nice investigation! Thank you!
Among all your great videos this is one of your best.
Amazing to so how reliable those carabiners are.
Any plans on releasing a video on the Edelrid pinch? It is such a nice belay device, but for sure you are going to make it fail with your strange experience 😂
thanks so much for your tips and knowledge it helped me a lot.
Cheers, and yea... Pinch in the strange experiments stage :DDD
@ Oh great news!
Looking forward to your Pinch findings, I highly respect your insights and knowledge.
I have used the pinch now for about one year and I love it. Direct attachment makes a huge difference for me, I have the feeling I have more and saver control over brake line this way than with grigri+gaswerk method.
To belay with the Pinch is a very nice experience for me.
I have to say I attach it directly and add an back-up beaner. Not because I don‘t trust it but the back-up beaner simply doesn‘t hurt or change the experience at all so why don‘t go for extra safety.
@@HardIsEasy I made strange type there :-D This is better:
I love your strange experiments that you do with a lot of experience 😂
one thing I want to add:
I am not very happy with the Caldwell/hownot2 video about the Pinch and how he suggest it catches a 6-7mm rope hands free.
He shock loaded the pinch in his test scenario and yes, there it caught.
It would be much more interesting to see this test with:
-more standard rope (9.5-9.8)
-rope just sliding (fall below bolt!)
happy climbing ✌️
Yay, you're back!
I would love to see a cmparison auf the Ohms, Omega, Zaed and (most importantly) Bauer Espressi
I'm still waiting for some more new devices to hit the market and probably will try to make one vid on all of them... huh... gonna be interesting...
@@HardIsEasy This I would love to see too!
Thanks Ben!
Insane video!
Climbing mixed with physics. Best videos ever. Thank you sir
Bro the freaking intro WHAT is going on? This was insane.
4:50 Ben when the video is not performing thanks to "the algorithm"
Should have added a target and that label there :DDDDD
I guess if I could collect all comments upfront that would make a great comedy video
The creep graph is beautiful
THANK YOU! I was so worried about that "bonus" part of the video being too nerdy for ppl :D
Old carabiner? Great luggage clip or car stowage clip.
It's not nearly as scientific or thorough as this, but HowNot2 also made a great video on this subject.
5 minutes after a 27 minute video is released you already know how scientific and thorough this video is? :D
It's also scientific but in a different way, because they gathered numbers and did destructive tests. So data is data
Really great video! One slight mistake. You both jokingly and sort of seriously claimed that the damaged ones had increased in strength. But the miniscule difference is within the tolerance of the production process. So it's not something one can determine.
Suffice to say, carabineers are more than strong enough, given proper loading
Thank you a lot and yes..., that's what Mammut engineer said: "we can not say that" :D and ofc it was all jokes.
This is the type of sponsored videos I want to watch 👏👏
another great one.
Love it!
I'm wondering if the reason of some carabiners marked a higher force to failure on the tensile tests was not due to the effect of work hardening (aka strain hardening). It's normal for some ductile materials such as steel alloys to gain more load bearing resistance when subjected to some kind of deformation.
Animations are good as fuck
Living in the future with the drop edits
Would love to see the repeated stress on nuts and cams
Amazing
Thank u❤
The opening shot is incredible ! Is it real footage from a drone with a 360camera?(with the camera angle edited in post) Or somthing else?
It's real footage :D But not a drone... My drone deff can't decent that fast :)
Thanks for answering! How did you do it? Pls😂
I don't quite agree with the work hardening theory you presented. The work hardening means that after loading past the yield strenght, to cause more plastic deformation you need to go past the stress the part experienced previously. Also, metal becoming harder doesn't change the Young's modulus which you showcased, it only changes the tensile strength (all if we stay within the alloy family, all steels are around E = 210 GPa, all alus are around E = 69 GPa). It is worth noting that the fatigue strength comes into play in your last test, as you were close enough to the UTS to see fatigue at low amount of cycles.
20:40 Aaahpff then kaboom! 😅
Conclusion : what does not kill you, makes you stronger.
You invented a new may to harden materials ...
Danke!
UUU thank you!
20:45 did the human survive ?
I haven't watched this yet, but I will say it never would have occurred to me to retire gear simply because it was dropped. Now if it showed signs of damage... OK. Now I am curious to see if my assumption was correct....
I think my assumptions were correct. This was a great video and I love the bonus content about the elastic and plastic elongation.
The moss on your roof looks like a topographic map of middle earth😂
Answering your question "Should you retire climbing gear?" I would say "no", as you do not know how many drops the carabiner or belay device (I found one at the bottom of a climbing route) has already been submitted. Maybe the last one is the worse, and next time you fall you will pay it. Definitely not worth taking this risk.
Your comment doesn’t make any sense
Is it just me or does the roof of his garage or shed or whatever it is look like a map of something? lol
now just make a drone that can replace the clip stick ;)
I can guarantee if you cyclically loaded the dented or nicked beavers the wil fail at the nicks especially on the spine or nose.
Лаба, клёвое название XD 👍
Generally ,no it doesnt need to be retired unless its visibly broken or doesnt function. If in doubt , dont use it.
Keyboard warriors will 100% complain differently
Plasticity
basically you created the same type of drone that they use in Ukraine...
Fifth! Now watchin 8)
Bro these animations!!
Amazin dedication ! Thank you very much!!!