Hey, Mike. Thanks for showing us "the good, the bad, and the ugly" in addition to the molding process that worked quite well in the end. In case you plan to continue experimenting with molds for silicone fins, I have a couple of suggestions. (Note that I've used both materials mentioned, but not for making masters or molds.) First, the next time you make masters for a set of silicone fins, try using HDPE (High Density Poly Ethylene) plastic board/sheet. I use small blocks of either Starboard or one of its competitors, like Seaboard. This stuff cuts cleanly and will take the sharp grooves you put into your fins. Most important is that almost nothing adheres to it. So, when you make masters with the stuff, whatever mold material you choose isn't likely to stick. (I'd be happy to send you some scraps to "play" with.) Second, I recommend that you try standard gray/yellow Milliput two-part epoxy putty for your next fin molds. This is neat stuff-it's easy to shape with wet fingers, has a long working time, and cures hard as the proverbial rock. Quite a few UA-camrs use Milliput when making molds for small, intricate parts like toy soldiers. I looked up what the manufacturer recommends for release agents, and it's "a light coating of oil or talcum powder." I strongly suspect that any of the mold releases you already have would work fine. The grouper is coming along nicely, and I can't wait to see you swim -er, glide-it in a nearby bass lake! Best, Chris (in Maine)
Hello and thank you for commenting! I think I actually have some HDPE laying around from a different project to mess with. I'm a little on the fence about carving fins vs. woodburning them. Might have to do a head to head comparison. I am really interested in the Milliput idea for the fin molds. I appreciate your input and thank you for watching!
Gastonfish here I make all of my silicone fin molds from silicone. With the proper release it works perfectly. More you use them the better the work and no they do not stick together.
One thing I found with any kind of top or bottom fins it that they effect the swim action. Keeping them as flexible as possible is key to keep the roll of the lure. Don't forget that smooth on offers a flexed that can be added to their plastics. The poly can be torn or ripped off. The harder plastics with the flexer additives are more durable.
I agree that the fins for sure make a big impact on the swim. I have been pleased with the Smooth-On products that I have used. I had researched some of their products for making these fins, but availability was the biggest issue. I did not know about the flexer additives; that is hood yo know. Hopefully some of these products will become more available for me to try. Thanks for watching and sharing your expertise!
Loved this idea. For the internal area where the silicone putty was used, i wonder how JB Weld Water putty would substitute? Thanks for sharing your creativity!
for the wood in the middle I would simply use wood that is the same thickness as I want the fins to be, cut out the shape of the fins and carve the lines for the fins on each side of the thicker wood with a Dremel or a similar tool, that way you don´t have to mess with a second material
Hey, Mike. Thanks for showing us "the good, the bad, and the ugly" in addition to the molding process that worked quite well in the end. In case you plan to continue experimenting with molds for silicone fins, I have a couple of suggestions. (Note that I've used both materials mentioned, but not for making masters or molds.)
First, the next time you make masters for a set of silicone fins, try using HDPE (High Density Poly Ethylene) plastic board/sheet. I use small blocks of either Starboard or one of its competitors, like Seaboard. This stuff cuts cleanly and will take the sharp grooves you put into your fins. Most important is that almost nothing adheres to it. So, when you make masters with the stuff, whatever mold material you choose isn't likely to stick. (I'd be happy to send you some scraps to "play" with.)
Second, I recommend that you try standard gray/yellow Milliput two-part epoxy putty for your next fin molds. This is neat stuff-it's easy to shape with wet fingers, has a long working time, and cures hard as the proverbial rock. Quite a few UA-camrs use Milliput when making molds for small, intricate parts like toy soldiers. I looked up what the manufacturer recommends for release agents, and it's "a light coating of oil or talcum powder." I strongly suspect that any of the mold releases you already have would work fine.
The grouper is coming along nicely, and I can't wait to see you swim -er, glide-it in a nearby bass lake! Best, Chris (in Maine)
Hello and thank you for commenting! I think I actually have some HDPE laying around from a different project to mess with. I'm a little on the fence about carving fins vs. woodburning them. Might have to do a head to head comparison. I am really interested in the Milliput idea for the fin molds. I appreciate your input and thank you for watching!
Its nice to see someone experimenting with new techniques and trying new things!
I'm waiting for a your upcoming video!😍
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it!
@@giulianoaireti5943 Its coming... soon!
Gastonfish here
I make all of my silicone fin molds from silicone. With the proper release it works perfectly. More you use them the better the work and no they do not stick together.
Awesome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
One thing I found with any kind of top or bottom fins it that they effect the swim action. Keeping them as flexible as possible is key to keep the roll of the lure.
Don't forget that smooth on offers a flexed that can be added to their plastics. The poly can be torn or ripped off. The harder plastics with the flexer additives are more durable.
I agree that the fins for sure make a big impact on the swim. I have been pleased with the Smooth-On products that I have used. I had researched some of their products for making these fins, but availability was the biggest issue. I did not know about the flexer additives; that is hood yo know. Hopefully some of these products will become more available for me to try. Thanks for watching and sharing your expertise!
Your music is real goood!.. so are your lures!
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Great video !
Glad you enjoyed it!
Loved this idea. For the internal area where the silicone putty was used, i wonder how JB Weld Water putty would substitute? Thanks for sharing your creativity!
Thanks! I was actually thinking about JB weld! I will probably give it a try once these inserts wear out. I appreciate your suggestion!
I would do a very lite pour over the object, wait 5 min and then finish the pour. Great vid
For sure; don't want any bubbles! Thanks for watching!
@@zimmtex yeah, the light pour allows the bubbles to dissipate and won’t allow the next layer to penetrate the very thin layer.
If you use clear silicon you can you the spike-it dye to color them.
Great tip, thanks!
for the wood in the middle I would simply use wood that is the same thickness as I want the fins to be, cut out the shape of the fins and carve the lines for the fins on each side of the thicker wood with a Dremel or a similar tool, that way you don´t have to mess with a second material
Interesting idea; it's good to try different things! I appreciate you watching and sharing your thoughts!
watch out Epic Bait Molds!
They don't need to worry about me, but I really appreciate your support!
love ya vids brother keep it up thanks for the video
Glad you like them!
have you thought about making a casting from gallium? you melt it in hot water then pour it over the parts to make your mold
That sounds interesting!
you could make a putty from silicone caulk and cornstarch
Haven't heard of that one, I'll have to check it out. Thanks for watching!
Top, abraços de Portugal
Thank you and welcome!
Have you tried using Vaseline as a mold release agent? I’ve had good luck with it. Excellent video!
Yes, it does work well. Have to be careful not to put it on too thick so it doesn't show up in your pour. Thanks for watching!
Look into latex as a mold making product
Thanks for the suggestion!
When do I get my mold????
Thanks for your enthusiasm! I think this technique has some potential, but it does need some more refining. Glad you like it!
Good joob,,👍
Thanks!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks!
베이트 도망 가능 느김? 물고기 도망 가는 느낌? 모습?
I plan on using silicone caulk to secure these and possibly pinning them if needed.