2013 Mazda 3 Brake Fluid Change
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2019
- After visiting a local Mazda dealership and getting their recommended maintenance on my 2013 Mazda 3, with associated prices, I decided to undertake some of the tasks myself. The first in the list of maintenance items that I wanted to tackle was the brake fluid service. This involves slowly removing old fluid while at the same time continually adding fluid to the brake fluid reservoir the ensure no air enters the system. As a DIY project, I was able to save over $130 by doing it myself and needed about 1.5 hours to complete the work.
Tools required:
Dot 3 Brake Fluid - amzn.to/36V78WK
10mm Wrench - amzn.to/2KetPh2
9mm Wrench - amzn.to/3lR70hA
Brake bleed kit - amzn.to/38Sobvv
Syringe with plastic tubing - amzn.to/38UUSs1
Oil Catch Pan - amzn.to/35H2PPG
Vinyl mechanic gloves - amzn.to/35JU87m
Shop Towels - amzn.to/38SnX7D
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Based on my detective work from the couch, I am 90.23% confident we have a fellow Albertan here. Mastercraft tools and no front license plate :D
Thank you for the video!
Outstanding detective work....but I downgraded provinces a few months ago.
@@DIYNorth haha, define a downgrade...I'm not so confident in our province anymore. Don't get me wrong, I'm proud to be an Albertan, but it feels like a house of cards 😔
Thanks for this video. You were the first to show how to flush brake fluid without removing the tires. Will do the same on my Mazda Premacy (Mazda 5). Cheers from Japan.
Thanks for watching. Good luck on the brake fluid change. I'm sure it will go well.
If u have steel wheels, u don't need to take off wheels. If you have rims just like the Mazda in this clip, I recommend taking off wheels. Any fluid that falls on rims which aren't cleaned will damage the paint on the rims. In order to avoid that possible issue I take off the rims
yes it should work. 10mm rear and 9mm (3/8) front wrenches for the bleeder screws. Take the wheels off for more room. steer the wheel all the way right or left when doing the fronts. You can get a better angle to fit the wrench (disregard what i typed if you have access to a hoist). 1L bottle for DOT 3 is more than enough. There will be leftover bfluid
Thanks for this video! My brake was super soft after the dealership said they added and checked all fluids, so I just bled them and redid them and now it’s more reactive to brake.
Good work. It's all about ensuring all of the air is out of the brake line.
Thanks man! Didn't know it was this easy!
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video! To clarify, you need to pump the brakes about 7-8 times for each side of the tires you’re bleeding?
Not necessarily, but it might end up that way. Its more important to ensure clean brake fluid is coming out rather than sticking to a set number of pedal depressions. The first brake you do will likely take more as it will remove the most old brake fluid from the system.
04:39 that fckin spider bro
Good eyes. Looks like it came out of my wrist.
Thanks for the video. Helpful.
Thanks for checking it out
Thank you very much for this - dealer wants $199.
Thanks for checking the video out.
I recently change my master cylinder on my 2012 mazda3 but in my new master cylinder (brake best) cap says to use DOT 4, not sure if use DOT 3 like before or DOT 4?
For the most part dot 3 and dot 4 can be used interchangeably with Dot 4 having a higher boiling point. I would just do a bit of specific research to ensure that both systems can use either fluid.
I think it will be fine though
Thanks for the video. 9 mm bleeders front n 10 mm bleeders rear is an odd Mazda thing, none of the other Japanese and American cars i own have this bizzare configuration. Loosen n tighten bleeders every year to keep them free else, when your car is 10 years old they will be jammed in place, especially if you are in the northeast - salt covered roads...
Also, use Dot 4 fluid as it is Dot 3 compatible and has better specifications, so it is more durable to heating n degradation over time. Synthetic fluid is also advocated, it is cheap, so why not!
Thanks for watching and for the recommendations
My Mazda dealer did the flush and the fluid is now clear but noticed there is a little bit of sludge on a blue plastic part that looks like a retainer.
I would just watch it for a few days to make sure it isn't leaking.
Thanks for the video. So you did right rear first and then left front next, instead of left rear?
That is the way that I did it and it worked fine.
Thank you for your quick reply! I see some people do the way you did for Mazda 3, so maybe that's the correct sequence. Just curious what was your source of the info. Service manuals, dealers, etc? Btw, I drive 2012 Mazda 3 (Skyactiv).
@@user-cy1td4dn6sAs far as I know there is no Haynes or Chilton manual for this vehicle. I have the manual for my Nissan and my Honda and they both use the cross over method when doing the brakes.
There is an online manual for the mazda 3 that is ok, but I think that it just says to start at the brake that is the furthest from the master cylinder.
Did you open the bleeder screw, then pump the brakes?
Yes
Thanks for the video... one question... are you uhhhhhhhh an airline pilot?
Sadly the uncorrected visual acuity in my left eye was inadequate to meet the minimum requirements to be a pilot. I am doing the next best thing though....pro bono creation of amateur (ish) videos of me doing stuff. My kids are so hungry.
Great video!
Quick question, have you ever replaced passenger side motor mount, iam having trouble matching part. Mounting on mine goes sideways comparing to the ones iam getting quoted that mounts to engine parellel. Mine is 13 mazda 3 2.0l auto skyactive. Thanks in advance!
no sorry I have not had to replace any motor mounts on it. I did a quick check at Rock Auto and they appear to have all the motor mounts individually as well as a complete kit with 4 motor mounts in it. But I haven't even looked at the mounts on my mazda to see if they look the same or not.
@@DIYNorth I did get mine from rock auto. Its not the correct one.
Thanks for a quick responce, great content btw!
that's unfortunate about Rock Auto...they are usually my go to location.
when I have a particularly hard part to find I typically go to the parts counter at the dealership so they can pull up the exact part number off the vehicle schematics. Then use that number to track down an alternative, unless the dealer price is ok, then I'll buy from them.
Thanks for checking out the channel
Does your car have ABS brake system?
Yes
Can i just pour some from the top and call it a day if my lines are dry ?
Maybe, but maybe not.
I think the recommendation would be to bench bleed the master cylinder if it is totally dry. I'm not sure if all types of brakes would need the bench bleed or not.
nope. its good to flush the old fluid in the caliper, brake lines, and also removes air & contanimiments
How much break fluid does it generally take to get this job done? You're saving me $130 lol.
I had 2 liters. I found that to be plenty. Experiences may vary.
@@DIYNorth Thanks for the reply! And thank you for this video! I really appreciate it!
As part of this job, you need to do the clutch as well. They share fluid.
In an automatic?
@@DIYNorth manual. my comment was for anyone watching looking for advice on these models.
@@slickstrings sounds good. I actually dont have a repair manual for this vehicle so there is a possibility of an oddity slipping in.
How many liters do I need?
2 liters is plenty, you might be able to run with just one, but if your fluid is really dirty it might be too little.
Sized of the hose please
Not sure exactly but its pretty small.
Its whatever this is. www.amazon.ca/OEMTOOLS-25036-Bleed-One-Man-Bleeder/dp/B000CMDP44