I know this is an older video but hoping you see this. How to best control the blower for maximum output? Your video seems to end before you cover the optimal use of it and not sure how turning the fan up or down controls output. Thanks!
I am sorry that the video does not go into detail about controlling the blower. You can check the manufacturer's instructions for recommendations. What I can tell you is... Hot fires should have High blower settings, and Low fires should have Low blower setting. If it were possible to make this adjustment to keep the blower in step with the heat temperature of the appliance, that would be ideal. If you run the blower on High (moving lots of air over the surface of the appliance) while the appliance is Cool... then it will cool the firebox, and interior firebox temp will drop, causing combustion inefficiency and possible creosote formation. See my recent video here for more intel on the three T's of combustion, its about half way thru the video: ua-cam.com/video/27jKaVjE_f4/v-deo.html
GREAT QUESTION! Sorry for the delayed response- I wish more people would ask before grouting in the surround. The surround is supposed to go on the outer surface, or be custom cut to fit under the lintel so that in any case it can be easily removed for future service of the appliance. Please do not mortar in ANY wood or pellet or gas burning insert surround because the installer will have to chip it out and destroy the mortar when service is required someday, and secondly, the expansion and contraction of the high heat appliances and their attached surrounds will crack the mortar. A weird and ugly gap will occur if it is mortared in place. The manufacturer also does not permit "permanent" mortaring in of the surrounds on inserts. When you do see a fireplace mortared in place, it is NOT AN INSERT. It is a true built-in fireplace, and it is totally fine to mortar and brick those in place. All the replaceable components are designed to be accessed through the firebox or control compartment. But not so for inserts (which go inside of masonry open-style fireplaces).
I was wondering if you had a video on the baffling? I messed it up and not sure how it's supposed to lay with insulation and the pieces that look like wood but feel like Styrofoam.
I was actually wondering the same thing. I have the pipes in place, but should that styrofoam-like insulation lay in the pipes, or all the way in the back on the swinging metal flap/damper.. I have a Drolet Escape 1400
@@Midtownsweepsfranchise the manual was super helpful.. The swinging metal flap was the front baffle support. So it was incorrectly installed and not supporting anything. It is now supporting the front of my vermiculite baffle - like it ought to 👍
The BTU of hardwoods is much higher than softer woods. There are benefits to both kinds of wood. Usually softer woods (take pine for example) burn hotter, and more dense hard woods burn slower and cooler. And remember the impact on the chimney over time: a hot chimney is a clean chimney!
I know this is crazy, but my boyfriend cut out those pipes on the top of inside ( converting the insert from a gas to a wood burning stove 🙄) It was never a gas insert and I've been trying to get him to comprehend the importance of how our(his) stove is supposed to work. The struggle. Oh by the way If anyone is curious to why he cut them out.. he wanted to fit bigger logs in there with the grate he made.
I know this is an older video but hoping you see this. How to best control the blower for maximum output? Your video seems to end before you cover the optimal use of it and not sure how turning the fan up or down controls output. Thanks!
I am sorry that the video does not go into detail about controlling the blower. You can check the manufacturer's instructions for recommendations.
What I can tell you is... Hot fires should have High blower settings, and Low fires should have Low blower setting. If it were possible to make this adjustment to keep the blower in step with the heat temperature of the appliance, that would be ideal.
If you run the blower on High (moving lots of air over the surface of the appliance) while the appliance is Cool... then it will cool the firebox, and interior firebox temp will drop, causing combustion inefficiency and possible creosote formation.
See my recent video here for more intel on the three T's of combustion, its about half way thru the video:
ua-cam.com/video/27jKaVjE_f4/v-deo.html
Very helpful, Thank you
Thanks for the comment! I love my wood insert!
I’m curious if the black square trim around the box is supposed to go ontop of the brick/stone. Or should I put the trim in and then stone to it.
GREAT QUESTION! Sorry for the delayed response- I wish more people would ask before grouting in the surround. The surround is supposed to go on the outer surface, or be custom cut to fit under the lintel so that in any case it can be easily removed for future service of the appliance. Please do not mortar in ANY wood or pellet or gas burning insert surround because the installer will have to chip it out and destroy the mortar when service is required someday, and secondly, the expansion and contraction of the high heat appliances and their attached surrounds will crack the mortar. A weird and ugly gap will occur if it is mortared in place. The manufacturer also does not permit "permanent" mortaring in of the surrounds on inserts.
When you do see a fireplace mortared in place, it is NOT AN INSERT. It is a true built-in fireplace, and it is totally fine to mortar and brick those in place. All the replaceable components are designed to be accessed through the firebox or control compartment. But not so for inserts (which go inside of masonry open-style fireplaces).
I was wondering if you had a video on the baffling? I messed it up and not sure how it's supposed to lay with insulation and the pieces that look like wood but feel like Styrofoam.
I was actually wondering the same thing. I have the pipes in place, but should that styrofoam-like insulation lay in the pipes, or all the way in the back on the swinging metal flap/damper.. I have a Drolet Escape 1400
I have a Vogelzang 1,200 sq. ft. Wood Stove Insert - VG1820
You bet here is another video showing the precise process. Thank you! ua-cam.com/video/xzQ2vjA4Q2c/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
It wil be in the installation manual... sorry I don't have a video on that. But if you google the phrase you seek you will find it! @@DizzyThermal
@@Midtownsweepsfranchise the manual was super helpful.. The swinging metal flap was the front baffle support. So it was incorrectly installed and not supporting anything. It is now supporting the front of my vermiculite baffle - like it ought to 👍
What are btu of hard woods, which I'm told u should be burning
The BTU of hardwoods is much higher than softer woods. There are benefits to both kinds of wood. Usually softer woods (take pine for example) burn hotter, and more dense hard woods burn slower and cooler. And remember the impact on the chimney over time: a hot chimney is a clean chimney!
I know this is crazy, but my boyfriend cut out those pipes on the top of inside ( converting the insert from a gas to a wood burning stove 🙄)
It was never a gas insert and I've been trying to get him to comprehend the importance of how our(his) stove is supposed to work. The struggle. Oh by the way If anyone is curious to why he cut them out.. he wanted to fit bigger logs in there with the grate he made.
I am not sure what to say to that... but thanks for the comment!